Wow! I just fell across your UA-cam channel researching string inlay which I am using for the first time on project. I like the idea of working with 2.5 - 3 mm for marquetry. I think I can handle that. I am going to play around with a few basic patterns. Thanks so much. I never heard of the Purple Heart and lemon juice technique. Passed that on to a friend who works a lot with it.
Thank you Will, Have fun making Marquetry. When you use lemon juice, make sure that it doesn't have an effect on your finish. For example, it doesn't match with acrylic lacquer.
Stunning work Ronnie. Your videos are almost as carefully crafted as your work. I'm taking delivery of a Hegner Multicut 1 Variable just after Xmas and can't wait to extend my work into this type of inlaid artwork. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you Roger, I always try to make videos that clearly show the process. You have bought a good machine, you will enjoy it a lot. If you want to make double bevel marquetry, don't forget to tilt the table to avoid gaps. Have lots of fun with your woodwork!
@@ronnie_rozenga Thanks. Whilst I'm not new to woodwork (www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=4311 and www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3659) I am new to marquetry and scroll saw work. I note that sometimes you insert a piece from underneath and sometimes from the top. How do you determine which way you choose to insert the piece you're working on, please?
So beautiful Marquetry! Ronnie, thank you for demonstration, good lessons for me. How much time it takes for this 4 panels? Respect to you from Russia!
Hello, In regards to wood stock material, I’ve been using purchased 1/8” two-sided veneer MDF for regular scroll saw patterns. Its high quality and stable , easy to cut. Would this product work for Marquetry? I was really ready to try Intarsia, but I am quickly getting drawn to Marquetry. Your response to another question about making your own veneer with the Mdf center got me thinking about my using stock I currently have. Of course the drawback is limited species in premade panels. ( 12 or so). Thank you, beautiful work, sir.
Thank you ! I do not give the veneer an MDF core but use MDF as a substrate for veneer, the panel is than 18 or 20 mm thick. Technically you could use the material you mentioned. I think a big disadvantage is that you have very little margin to sand the panel flat afterwards when there are small differences in thickness. You can easily sand through the thin veneer.
Hi Ronnie just love your work :) Can you please tell me what is that electric saw that you use to cut the venner? I have been cut my pieces by hand. I would love to have one of those saws. Thank you so much and please keep posting beautiful videos with your work and skills. Best regards, Phil
Yes it is, there is no place where I can buy it that thick. I do not have issues with thick veneer. I use a high quality MDF as substrate for the veneer and I use a back veneer which has the same thickness. This ensures a stable panel.
Greetings, Divya here with NTD Television. We are one of the world's fastest growing media companies with over 100 million fans and 1 billion monthly video views across all of our social properties. Our motto is truth, hope, and humanity. We love your videos and our editors would like to showcase it by uploading it on some of our social media pages and websites so that our fans can see it. Of course, we are happy to credit your channel clearly to make sure people know how to find you and your videos. You will still hold the exclusive rights to the video. Can we have your permission to do that? Kind regards, Divya
Hi, I do a lot of double bevel marquetry. I find your work inspirational. I use 3/16” veneer which I resaw on the band saw. I find that somewhat limiting and it’s really hard on the band saw blades. Purple hard will destroy a blade in no time. Do you saw your own veneer or buy it? If you buy it could you give me your supplier? I love your shop. You have some old school equipment that are classic. I’ve not seen anything like the one you cut loose tenon mortises with before. Looking forward to your next project!
Thank you! That is really thick veneer you use for the marquetry, mine is 2,5 to 3 mm. I make it myself bij sawing with the circular saw and than run it through the thicknesser. I can't buy it 3mm thick in Holland.
@@ronnie_rozenga sorry, I said 3/16” when I intended to say 3/32” which is about 2.3 mm so similar to yours. I did not realize you were in Holland. Lovely country. My wife and I once Had a layover in Amsterdam which we thoroughly enjoyed. It’s an easy country for an American to visit since everyone speaks English. I am retired and now spend my days doing woodworking in my shop here in Florida. I find marquetry to be the most challenging. Mastering The scroll saw is a real skill. Thanks for the reply and I look forward to your next project.
@@randsipe224 I have been in many cities in Holland but never in Amsterdam.....I am working on a small marquetry box at the moment, I will probably make a UA-cam video of it. Nice to hear you enjoy woodworking, have fun making marquetry! Greetings from Holland.
I saw you corrected to 3/32", thats about what I bandsaw mine to. Don't know the bandsaw you have but have found the Laguna Resaw King Carbide tipped blades to be worth their money. They are expensive, but I was burning through blades like crazy with the Olsen type blades and I think I will save money in the long run. I have cut purple heart, even some cocobolo with no wobble in the resaw cuts with the Laguna Resaw king blades. So you get longevity and also I think a more accurate cut . Hopes this helps.
@@mikeminnick9712 hi Mike, my experience is similar. Bandsaw blades just do not last and are basically disposable. I tried resharpening them with very limited results and they don’t cut as well after. I finally bought a carbide tipped blade, not Laguna, but cuts through hardwood like a hot knife in butter. Leaves a rough cut though. No matter, once through the thickness planer and it’s fine. Any new projects?
No there isn't. The saw table is tilted a few degrees. This makes the piece to be inserted slightly larger than the piece cut out. So it fits seamlessly.
I use the '' Pebeco 3 " sawblades, 130x0.8x0.34mm. The thickness of my veneer is 3mm. I can't buy it that thick, that's why I make it myself. I don't use spiral blades.
@@ronnie_rozenga thanks for the response. Your work is not only artistic but beautifully executed. I would have guessed you were using a much smaller blade, like a 3/0. I'm new to this inlay and I've been studying your videos in detail. I'm planing/thickness sanding my own stock to 0.10 inch. I'm guessing you use a slight tilt to the left on your saw table, 4 or 5 degrees maybe. Looks like when you're building the fish, you cut counter-clockwise and insert component pieces of the fish from the bottom and when you inlay the finished fish into the background you cut clockwise and insert the fish assembly from the top? Are you using wood glue and sanding dust as joint filler?
@@LarryLescanec Thank you, Larry, you are right, I go counter-clockwise if I want to insert from the bottom and clockwise when I want to insert from the top. The angle of the table depents on the thickness of the veneer and the thickness of the sawblade. In my case that is about 7 degrees. You just have to try until it fits perfectly. In that case there are no gaps to repair. Only the drill holes to insert the sawblade need to be repaired sometimes. For this I use Frencken Cellocol mixt with sawdust, this product is colorless. Have fun!
@@mgbwoodwork5653 If you want to insert from the bottom, you saw counter-clockwise. If you want to insert from the top, you have to saw clockwise. I use an angle of 7 degrees but that depents on the thickness of the wood and the thickness of the sawblade. Just try and see if it fits well.
@@ronnie_rozenga Thanks. I was shown using 1/16th-inch material but I can't plane my own stock, don't have a drum sander. When I saw you using 3mm my options opened up as my lunch box planer will plane to 1/8th-inch. So I can make all I need. Thanks again and your work looks over the top.
I use these and they work great: 12 Pcs 4 Ounce Needle Tip Glue Bottle 120ml Plastic Dropper Bottles with 2 Pcs Mini Funnel for Small Gluing Projects, Paper Quilling DIY Craft, Acrylic Painting, White Lids. Available on Amazon.
Magnificent! 👍
Thank you Chri Stina !
super
erg rustgevend om naar te kijken.
Dankjewel Niels !
Wonderful, great job.😀👍
Thank you Giorgio !
It was very beautiful. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Wow, I am impressed! Thank you for posting the whole process.
You're welcome Terri !
Very nice work. Thanks for taking time to post.
Thank You !
Hi Ronnie, thank you so much for sharing.
A spectacular job Greetings from Mallorca.
Thank you Gabriel, a new video is coming soon. Greetings from holland.
How beautiful!
Subscribed!
Thank you Gianni !
Wow! I just fell across your UA-cam channel researching string inlay which I am using for the first time on project. I like the idea of working with 2.5 - 3 mm for marquetry. I think I can handle that. I am going to play around with a few basic patterns. Thanks so much.
I never heard of the Purple Heart and lemon juice technique. Passed that on to a friend who works a lot with it.
Thank you Will, Have fun making Marquetry. When you use lemon juice, make sure that it doesn't have an effect on your finish. For example, it doesn't match with acrylic lacquer.
Beautiful work beautiful workshop too ❤️❤️❤️😎
Thank you Tim !
what beautiful work you do
Thank you Pat !
Stunning work Ronnie. Your videos are almost as carefully crafted as your work. I'm taking delivery of a Hegner Multicut 1 Variable just after Xmas and can't wait to extend my work into this type of inlaid artwork. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you Roger, I always try to make videos that clearly show the process. You have bought a good machine, you will enjoy it a lot. If you want to make double bevel marquetry, don't forget to tilt the table to avoid gaps. Have lots of fun with your woodwork!
@@ronnie_rozenga Thanks. Whilst I'm not new to woodwork (www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=4311 and www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3659) I am new to marquetry and scroll saw work. I note that sometimes you insert a piece from underneath and sometimes from the top. How do you determine which way you choose to insert the piece you're working on, please?
Absolutely amazing
Thank you Judy !
Love it
Thanks for watching!
Beutiful nice work ❤😊
Thank you !
¡Magnífico, expléndido !!!
Gracias !
Saludos desde mexico
Greetings from the Netherlands !
So beautiful Marquetry! Ronnie, thank you for demonstration, good lessons for me. How much time it takes for this 4 panels? Respect to you from Russia!
Thank you very much ! The 4 panels took about 160-180 hours to complete. Especially the fish took a lot of time.
Very beautiful work. Can I ask do you put the “face side” down and the “glue side” up when you cut on the scroll saw - or the other way round ?
Thank you Danny, I always work with the face side up so I can see what the final result will look like.
Hello, In regards to wood stock material, I’ve been using purchased 1/8” two-sided veneer MDF for regular scroll saw patterns. Its high quality and stable , easy to cut. Would this product work for Marquetry? I was really ready to try Intarsia, but I am quickly getting drawn to Marquetry. Your response to another question about making your own veneer with the Mdf center got me thinking about my using stock I currently have. Of course the drawback is limited species in premade panels. ( 12 or so). Thank you, beautiful work, sir.
Thank you ! I do not give the veneer an MDF core but use MDF as a substrate for veneer, the panel is than 18 or 20 mm thick. Technically you could use the material you mentioned. I think a big disadvantage is that you have very little margin to sand the panel flat afterwards when there are small differences in thickness. You can easily sand through the thin veneer.
Beautiful job! Are all the wood all 1/8th inch thick?
Thank you Garrett ! Yes, it is all 3mm thick.
Ronnie Lozenga. Beautiful work. What size blades are you using no 3?
Thank you Clive, I use Pebeco 3 saw blades, they work best for me.
Hi Ronnie, a very interesting video, certainly inspirational. Could you tell me the make and model of the magnifier you use? Thank you...
Thank you ! Sorry, but I can't find a brand name, you'll have to search the internet.
Hi Ronnie just love your work :)
Can you please tell me what is that electric saw that you use to cut the venner? I have been cut my pieces by hand. I would love to have one of those saws. Thank you so much and please keep posting beautiful videos with your work and skills. Best regards, Phil
Hello Phil, thank you! The saw is a Hegner Polycut 3. There are more models from Hegner, it is just what you prefer. The blades I use are Pebeco 3.
Thank you so much for the quick reply. Have a great Wkd.@@ronnie_rozenga
Wonderful work. Is that all shop sawn veneer? And do you have any wood movement issues using veneer that thick?
Yes it is, there is no place where I can buy it that thick. I do not have issues with thick veneer. I use a high quality MDF as substrate for the veneer and I use a back veneer which has the same thickness. This ensures a stable panel.
Greetings,
Divya here with NTD Television. We are one of the world's fastest growing media companies with over 100 million fans and 1 billion monthly video views across all of our social properties. Our motto is truth, hope, and humanity.
We love your videos and our editors would like to showcase it by uploading it on some of our social media pages and websites so that our fans can see it. Of course, we are happy to credit your channel clearly to make sure people know how to find you and your videos. You will still hold the exclusive rights to the video.
Can we have your permission to do that?
Kind regards,
Divya
Prachtig!
Dankjewel !
Hi, I do a lot of double bevel marquetry. I find your work inspirational. I use 3/16” veneer which I resaw on the band saw. I find that somewhat limiting and it’s really hard on the band saw blades. Purple hard will destroy a blade in no time. Do you saw your own veneer or buy it? If you buy it could you give me your supplier? I love your shop. You have some old school equipment that are classic. I’ve not seen anything like the one you cut loose tenon mortises with before. Looking forward to your next project!
Thank you! That is really thick veneer you use for the marquetry, mine is 2,5 to 3 mm. I make it myself bij sawing with the circular saw and than run it through the thicknesser. I can't buy it 3mm thick in Holland.
@@ronnie_rozenga sorry, I said 3/16” when I intended to say 3/32” which is about 2.3 mm so similar to yours. I did not realize you were in Holland. Lovely country. My wife and I once Had a layover in Amsterdam which we thoroughly enjoyed. It’s an easy country for an American to visit since everyone speaks English. I am retired and now spend my days doing woodworking in my shop here in Florida. I find marquetry to be the most challenging. Mastering The scroll saw is a real skill. Thanks for the reply and I look forward to your next project.
@@randsipe224 I have been in many cities in Holland but never in Amsterdam.....I am working on a small marquetry box at the moment, I will probably make a UA-cam video of it. Nice to hear you enjoy woodworking, have fun making marquetry! Greetings from Holland.
I saw you corrected to 3/32", thats about what I bandsaw mine to. Don't know the bandsaw you have but have found the Laguna Resaw King Carbide tipped blades to be worth their money. They are expensive, but I was burning through blades like crazy with the Olsen type blades and I think I will save money in the long run. I have cut purple heart, even some cocobolo with no wobble in the resaw cuts with the Laguna Resaw king blades. So you get longevity and also I think a more accurate cut . Hopes this helps.
@@mikeminnick9712 hi Mike, my experience is similar. Bandsaw blades just do not last and are basically disposable. I tried resharpening them with very limited results and they don’t cut as well after. I finally bought a carbide tipped blade, not Laguna, but cuts through hardwood like a hot knife in butter. Leaves a rough cut though. No matter, once through the thickness planer and it’s fine. Any new projects?
Man, that's thick stuff.
Yes that's right, 3mm. I don't like to work with thin veneer.
Thank you for sharing. What kind of blade are you using? Love your work.
I have tried several blades Teresa, but I like the Pebeco 3 blades best. They work great for the 3 mm veneer I use.
Hi, for drawers or doors of a cabinet is it better to use that venee thickness or also 0.6mm? Excellent work
You can also use thin veneer, I just like to work with thick veneer. Thick veneer is more likely to cause tension, so it deserves more attention.
@@ronnie_rozenga thank you!
Why is there not a gap between the pieces, doesnt the saw remove material?
The saw table is tilted a few degrees. This way the piece to be inserted has a wedge shape, this closes the gap that the sawblade made.
One thing I dont understand- isnt there a gap between the pieces(because of the saw blade)?
No there isn't. The saw table is tilted a few degrees. This makes the piece to be inserted slightly larger than the piece cut out. So it fits seamlessly.
not here on my free will, really great artwork tho
Thank you ! I hope no one forced you, but you are free to watch my other videos!
What size blade do you use and what is the thickness of your stock? Looks like 1/8 inch. Do you use spiral blades?
I use the '' Pebeco 3 " sawblades, 130x0.8x0.34mm. The thickness of my veneer is 3mm. I can't buy it that thick, that's why I make it myself. I don't use spiral blades.
@@ronnie_rozenga thanks for the response. Your work is not only artistic but beautifully executed. I would have guessed you were using a much smaller blade, like a 3/0. I'm new to this inlay and I've been studying your videos in detail. I'm planing/thickness sanding my own stock to 0.10 inch. I'm guessing you use a slight tilt to the left on your saw table, 4 or 5 degrees maybe. Looks like when you're building the fish, you cut counter-clockwise and insert component pieces of the fish from the bottom and when you inlay the finished fish into the background you cut clockwise and insert the fish assembly from the top? Are you using wood glue and sanding dust as joint filler?
@@LarryLescanec Thank you, Larry, you are right, I go counter-clockwise if I want to insert from the bottom and clockwise when I want to insert from the top. The angle of the table depents on the thickness of the veneer and the thickness of the sawblade. In my case that is about 7 degrees. You just have to try until it fits perfectly. In that case there are no gaps to repair. Only the drill holes to insert the sawblade need to be repaired sometimes. For this I use Frencken Cellocol mixt with sawdust, this product is colorless. Have fun!
What kind of sawblades are you using (teeth/mm)?
mooi
Bedankt !
do you cut your own veneers? and to what thickness looks about 1/8? how long does it take you for each piece?
Hello sean, yes I cut my own veneers, the thickness is 3mm. I don't know what you mean with your last question.
@ronnie_rozenga Sorry, i mean for each furniture piece you create, how long does it take from start to finish.
@@seanrobinson203 The aquatic life cabinet took about 350 hours. The marquetry takes a lot of time to make
@ronnie_rozenga but it look brilliant i look forward to seeing new videos.
@@seanrobinson203 👍
Are you using the double bevel technique or vertical cutting?
I use the double bevel technique . This ensures that I have no gaps.
I’ve just started this technique. Are you cutting the infill piece on top, probably obvious. What angle do you use for 3mm stock?
@@mgbwoodwork5653 If you want to insert from the bottom, you saw counter-clockwise. If you want to insert from the top, you have to saw clockwise. I use an angle of 7 degrees but that depents on the thickness of the wood and the thickness of the sawblade. Just try and see if it fits well.
@@ronnie_rozenga Thanks. I was shown using 1/16th-inch material but I can't plane my own stock, don't have a drum sander. When I saw you using 3mm my options opened up as my lunch box planer will plane to 1/8th-inch. So I can make all I need.
Thanks again and your work looks over the top.
@@mgbwoodwork5653 Thanks, have fun !
ron could you please tell me where you got you're glue applcator. Ive searchered alover,but I can'nt seem to find it Thank You.
I buy the syringes at 123disposables.com .I don't know how far they ship, but you can give it a try.
I use these and they work great: 12 Pcs 4 Ounce Needle Tip Glue Bottle 120ml Plastic Dropper Bottles with 2 Pcs Mini Funnel for Small Gluing Projects, Paper Quilling DIY Craft, Acrylic Painting, White Lids. Available on Amazon.
What glue is being used.
For the marquetry I use Titebond Original.