You talked about the center being reversed. I remember that my father had to do that each year in preparation of mounting the 227 mounted corn picker. Then after the picking was over and the picker was removed, they were switched back for proper spacing for row crop work. It took about a whole day to switch the rims from side to side ( so the tread remained in the right direction ) and mount the picker. And another day to go the other way. Dad elected to do this by himself! Amazing job to be done single handed.
Helps greatly if you were to clean off all that yellow paint off the axle first! The cleaner the axle (bare metal is the goal), the easier that hub will slide once you can get it to move. Once it gives way (moves), that's half the battle won already.
that is all colour not being able to come them out i have experienced this for pto shaft when i scraped off colour from pto shaft it easily glide in and out
Also, in the field without many tools I have placed a hilift jack between the wheel and the deck and applied pressure while being underneith and hitting wood with a hammer on the lower part of the cast wheel. it worked alright but very tiring. I have also made a hub pulling tool which works very well if you have ratcheting wrenches
Yeah, I would say that the problem is not rust, but the problem is that some idiot painted the rear axle with yellow paint. The axles were never intended to be painted. Also, I would say that if you had used a hand grinder with a rotary wire brush on the axle BEFORE you tried to pull the clamp off, and scoured all as much of that paint off as you could get, your clamp would have come off a lot easier. Cleaning out the inside of the clamp helps, too, before you try to put it back on. Back in the days when farmers moved these in and out several times a year, they would cover the axle with grease (anti-seize had not been invented yet), and then wrap old rags or gunny sack around the axle to hold the grease in place, and then used binder twine to hold the rags in place. That way nothing would rust, and would be all nice and slick when you would want to adjust it next time. Another trick they used to use was to put wax paper, or bread wrappers in between the parts of the clamp, along with some grease, when you tightened it up. That way the clamp would come apart so much easier when you wanted to loosen it next time. The parts of the clamp couldn't rust together, with the waxed paper and grease between them.
There is a wheel pulley with three bolts. One is pointed and is fit into hole at end of axle. Other two bolts fit into two holes on wheel about two feet apart. A steering wheel puller is a small version of what you actually need. Our tractors were set at width of 36 inches for peanuts and 40 inches for cotton. Measurement is the distance from center of seat/battery box and center of tractor tread. Axle is not long enough to slide in or out for those settings. All of wheel assembly has to be removed from axle and either turned around leaving tread in reverse or moving to opposite sides of tractor and reinstalling. If your tractor was to be used regularly for long term field use this grease might cause wheels to slip out. Another suggestion: if you don't maintain coolant but use plain water in your tractor remove drain plug under the tractor and replace with standard single spigot. This way it's easier to drain water and you won't need a wrench to tighten plug every time you refill it. Drove your type JD regularly in the 60s on farm where I grew up. Brings back good memories watching you guys work. Good luck with your "A"
A couple of cold chisels tapped in to those splits in the hub to spread it out and it would have slid easily. And the anti seize... geez, now you are pushing a bunch of crap while trying to put it back on.
Obviously you fellows don't know how to put one back on if you hit on either side every second hit it would slide on my easier instead of putting pressure all on one side
You talked about the center being reversed. I remember that my father had to do that each year in preparation of mounting the 227 mounted corn picker. Then after the picking was over and the picker was removed, they were switched back for proper spacing for row crop work. It took about a whole day to switch the rims from side to side ( so the tread remained in the right direction ) and mount the picker. And another day to go the other way. Dad elected to do this by himself! Amazing job to be done single handed.
Helps greatly if you were to clean off all that yellow paint off the axle first! The cleaner the axle (bare metal is the goal), the easier that hub will slide once you can get it to move. Once it gives way (moves), that's half the battle won already.
that is all colour not being able to come them out
i have experienced this for pto shaft
when i scraped off colour from pto shaft it easily glide in and out
Remove the paint and spray with WD40!!
My Dad always used a hydraulic jack to push the wheel out, then used the jack against a door jam to push the wheel in.
Also, in the field without many tools I have placed a hilift jack between the wheel and the deck and applied pressure while being underneith and hitting wood with a hammer on the lower part of the cast wheel. it worked alright but very tiring. I have also made a hub pulling tool which works very well if you have ratcheting wrenches
Quite the process.
Yeah, I would say that the problem is not rust, but the problem is that some idiot painted the rear axle with yellow paint. The axles were never intended to be painted. Also, I would say that if you had used a hand grinder with a rotary wire brush on the axle BEFORE you tried to pull the clamp off, and scoured all as much of that paint off as you could get, your clamp would have come off a lot easier. Cleaning out the inside of the clamp helps, too, before you try to put it back on. Back in the days when farmers moved these in and out several times a year, they would cover the axle with grease (anti-seize had not been invented yet), and then wrap old rags or gunny sack around the axle to hold the grease in place, and then used binder twine to hold the rags in place. That way nothing would rust, and would be all nice and slick when you would want to adjust it next time. Another trick they used to use was to put wax paper, or bread wrappers in between the parts of the clamp, along with some grease, when you tightened it up. That way the clamp would come apart so much easier when you wanted to loosen it next time. The parts of the clamp couldn't rust together, with the waxed paper and grease between them.
Alittle spray never hurt
Remove the yellow paint off the axel with paint stripper. Then hose off the paint off the axel.
Paint stripper is a good idea!
There is a wheel pulley with three bolts. One is pointed and is fit into hole at end of axle.
Other two bolts fit into two holes on wheel about two feet apart. A steering wheel puller is a small version of what you actually need. Our tractors were set at width of 36 inches for peanuts and 40 inches for cotton. Measurement is the distance from center of seat/battery box and center of tractor tread. Axle is not long enough to slide in or out for those settings. All of wheel assembly has to be removed from axle and either turned around leaving tread in reverse or moving to opposite sides of tractor and reinstalling. If your tractor was to be used regularly for long term field use this grease might cause wheels to slip out.
Another suggestion: if you don't maintain coolant but use plain water in your tractor remove drain plug under the tractor and replace with standard single spigot. This way it's easier to drain water and you won't need a wrench to tighten plug every time you refill it.
Drove your type JD regularly in the 60s on farm where I grew up. Brings back good memories watching you guys work.
Good luck with your "A"
Remove the paint also would help it move to the outside when removing
I really thought go back on easier than that, put a shine on axle.
Clean the paint off would help.
I like a challenge 😅
You do have to be careful hitting the hub with a sledgehammer. the hub is made of cast iron and can easily crack.
Yes, definitely wouldn't want to hit it hard. But we were careful.
A couple of cold chisels tapped in to those splits in the hub to spread it out and it would have slid easily. And the anti seize... geez, now you are pushing a bunch of crap while trying to put it back on.
Obviously you fellows don't know how to put one back on if you hit on either side every second hit it would slide on my easier instead of putting pressure all on one side
We seen to get by alright.