Antique John Deere Clutch Inspection and Adjustment - zeketheantiquefreak
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- 1937 Model AR Clutch Inspection and Adjustment.
Tough simple design that can be done in under a half hour if the tools are handy. Does not require the tractor to be split to work on clutch. What we have today is progress??
Oh, yea, I forgot to mention: These do not require a crown and pinion in the rear end... The crankshaft is in line with the axles.
You are awesome thankyou. I just sat down and did mine watching your video. Please keep making them. Thank you
Grew up on the farm with a JD Br, Ar, and a G. Read your comment about your Dad and the saw mandrel. We had a saw on the front of the Br and I can remember that blade starting to flex when it got too hot cutting oak and tamarack. Scary stuff--slow down a little, give it time to cool. Firewood, fence posts. Don't remember what year the JD's were and my Dad has passed on. The Br and Ar were hand start and the G was electric start.Thanks for bringing back the memories of my time spent running them all those years ago. Love the sound of those two cylinder JD's.
Zzzzzinggg! Zzzzzinggg! Yes, I can still hear that angry un-shielded 24" mandrel blade sharpening posts in front of the old JD A. I can smell the sawdust and see the pile of off-cuts on the ground. I sorta thought that Dad was either brave or stupid to be near that thing... But hey, that is what you had to do to farm in the '60's, eh?
This is beauty of young and old uniting for the few real men left. Online videos posted by old masters helping to lead us younger generations on to continue with a little pride. Even my newer deere (yanmar, but still is an 88') knowledge couldnt touch the real name making deeres of past generations. Thank you for posting this, i knownit was years ago, but dont stop please lol
Thanks for the kudos!
Informative and well explained watch this for a decent clutch adjust on your old Deere's
Thank you for the kind comment. I hope these videos help keep the old iron alive.
This video probably just solved a problem I have been having with my tractor. thanks
Glad we could be of help. I love the simple design of this old iron. Thank you for the comment.
I like to use 3 Belleville washers on the three clutch adjusting bolts. These washers are cupped spring washers ( not lock washers ) which allow you to feather in the clutch to give a smooth engagement in stead of a jerk. You still adjust the clutch the same way to give the necessary snap. Can get them from John Deere or Steiner.
Thank you for the valuable tip.
These had a small gasoline tank on the back of the main distillate tank. Before shutting the unit off, the fuel selector was set to gasoline for the next start.
There is no 'kill wire' on the magneto. Shutting it off meant shutting the fuel off to the carburettor and letting it run till the float bowl was empty. Once running on gasoline after the next start, it was run up to temperature before switching the fuel selector valve to distillate.
With the engine being stopped this way, there was no fuel condensation on the plugs for the next start that could rob the spark.
Of course it is a low compression engine, but I dare you to try and turn it over with the petcocks closed.
GREAT TUTORIAL....THANK YOU!!!
Thank you.
I’ve got a 730. It won’t stay in gear as that I have to hold the handle in the entire time I run it. What should I do to fix this? Thanks
I am assuming the 'handle' is the hand clutch lever. I would say have a look at this video and attempt the adjustments shown. The lever should make a nice, satisfying 'clunk' as it over-centers and engages.
I’m struggling on the 60 I just got. When you snap it in and take off or in Netural. When you pull back on the lever. The pulley doesn’t stop turning and the tractor keeps driving. It’s been sitting outside in weather with pulley cover off for the last 20 years lol. Ran 3 years ago tho. I’m hoping I’ll adjust a tad and will fix it. When I pull back on the clutch lever further. The pulley engages again lol
Is there a chance that the clutch disks are oily? Mating surfaces rusty?
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 for sure they are rusty. I’m gonna clean best I can Adjust right and try again. It doesn’t actually snap in like my B does. And doesn’t disengage snap until all the way back
No hour-meter on these. I wonder what they are capable of?
zeketheantiquefreak l farmed with Deeres for years. I can't tell you on hours. Just know we would do 2500 acres plus per season on 1JD A. Those Deere tractor would go forever. I remember my dad telling me NOT to ride the brakes. My knee was busted many a time hitting a rock with the plow and that A clutch yanked back. I finally learnt to keep my right knee out of the way. I used the G a lot too. All the same. Regards...
Thank you for the comment. I sold my '37 AR yesterday... It went back to the family that owned it since 1938. I know the young farmer will take care of it and keep it inside. A couple of weeks ago I offered for him to run it through the parade at the Austin Manitoba Thresherman's reunion and he was just ecstatic. We trailered it up there and had a great day. John Deere was the specialty this year so there was acres of green iron to take in. Soooo... I guess I am on the market for a new project, perhaps a little JD H would fill my green void?
zeketheantiquefreak of
The plug starts out wet but the longer you let it run it will get sooty. It never seems to get oily. The smoke is black like poorly burned fuel It will run rough right away The gas is fresh but it is rec gas 93 octane I was hesitant to put ethanol blend in it because I knew the gas could be in there a while. It was the only gas I could get that was not ethanol.
Hmmm... A number of things I would check. The inlet pipe for the air cleaner, just above the oil can be choked off with built up dirt. It would require removal of the four bolts and a visual inspection of the air cleaner tube.
I am assuming that it is timed correctly. I (and others) have a video on that but timing shouldn't foul one plug, no?
Because of the steel inlet pipe on the carburetor it is difficult to check if the choke butterfly is opening properly.
The float could be 'sunk'... This is a common problem on these old machines. The original might be deteriorated cork or a porous brass float that allows the fuel level to flood the engine. If you shut off the fuel supply while it is running the fuel level will drop to a point where, if the spark and everything are ok, the engine will run ok until the bowl is out of fuel.
A float that is adjusted improperly can also allow the fuel level to be too high.
May I suggest to put two full bottles (a heavy dose) of fuel injection cleaner in the fuel, mix it well, run the machine and let the thing sit overnight. this stuff is amazing at cleaning the little passages of gum and varnish without your taking the carburetor apart. This won't repair a sunk float or incorrect needle adjustment but will eliminate other little problems in the process. Hope this helps.
I have a 1952 John Deere AR and cannot find a service manual specific to that model but would a service manual for a model A be fairly close as far as components and torque specs?
Yes, a lot of the specs should be close... The 'R' in 'AR' stood for 'Regular' as in regular axle as compared to the tricycle type.
+zeketheantiquefreak great thanks a lot
Tell us about your project? Restoration? Daily driver? Grandpa's favorite?
+zeketheantiquefreak it was my grandpa's tractor, I got it from my uncle who used it as his fencing tractor, he had a post pounder mounted on the back. It was running when it was parked maybe 8 or so years ago. So I towed it home and hopefully it won't take much to get it running again. Once it's running I'll concentrate on restoring it.
Awesome! I am always glad to hear that someone is preserving our history. The family connection is a great motivator.
Why do the plates have to be marked? What if your replacing the plates?
Yes, please mark the plates if you are reusing them... The wear pattern will match the mating disk. If replacing disks, None of this matters. Thanks for the comment.
I have a AR almost identical to the one you have and am in the process of getting it running right now. We have it running but it is fouling the #1 plug We put in new Autolite 3076 plugs because these crossed to the champion plugs that were in it. Is this the correct plug? the mag was just re manufactured . it is timed to TDC any help would be appreciated Scott
Is the plug fouling wet as in un-burnt gasoline? With light fluffy black stuff as in running rich or oily heavy crap that would suggest oil consumption? Is the exhaust, black, blue? How long does it take to foul the plug. How old is the fuel?
Best clutch adjustment I have ever seen easy to understand I haven’t done one in a while
Thanks for the kudos!
My 1936 AO does not have 3 holes for the springs to set in just a flat surface. I have had the springs move out of position on me. But my crank splines do have wear causing the clutch hub to move a little.
Thank you for the video. My '47 slant dash A clutch started slipping pretty bad today. It's been oozing oil out of the pulley housing for awhile, but now I know how to take it apart and see what is what. I seem to learn something new every time I use the thing, and plenty I haven't learned yet. Like why does my right plug keep fouling when compression on both cylinders is the same? In the meantime, I'll keep cleaning that plug!
Are the plugs the same part number? Could the right side have a 'cold' plug leading to fouling?
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 They are. I actually replaced them a month ago just to rule out the plug itself. I have some new wires to install as well.
@@vfrpipe Does the plug seem to be fouling 'oily' as in a broken oil control ring, say, or is it 'sooty' as in an over-rich carb situation? I am not familiar with the later models, but was told that some had a 'two-barrel' carb design. Not sure if this exists or if your unit has it, but the barrel for that cylinder may be set too rich? Could a bad manifold/carb mount gasket cause a lean condition on the one cylinder and the carb is set rich to compensate?
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 It's more wet and oily and usually the gap is bridged with some kind of gunk. It's been a while since I had to mess with plugs and carburetors! So it's probably oil getting by. I was hoping it was too much fuel, although I think I knew in my heart of hearts that wasn't the case. I guess maybe I'll get hot running plugs to see if that helps
@@vfrpipe If the tractor is only used in warm weather, a heavier oil, say 15w-40 would have less chance to get into the cylinder. Just a thought.
What is a reason to adjust it
Under normal wear, the clutch surfaces will get thinner and the clutch will not operate as normal. This simple adjustment keeps the clutch working properly, not sloppy.
What size were the bolts and square nuts he used
The nuts are vintage 1/2" square (3/4" wrench) off of an old plow. The bolts can be almost any length as only the thread part is used to act as a puller/pusher. The bolts can be hex head. Good luck with your project! Hex head nuts may work but can spin in the casting slots they formed for the square nut to sit in
Ok thank you I think my clutch is different then this after looking at mine
What model are you working on?
zeketheantiquefreak it's a 52 A styled it's the first John Deere I have ever had so I don't know a lot about it
Perhaps more pertinent information for your unit would be from the YT video, 'John Deere Styled Two Cylinder Clutch maintenance.'