Ueli Steck in Les Drus "North Couloir Direct" (VI, Al 6+, M8)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 лис 2024
- Last winter, we were with Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para in "Les Drus - North Couloir Direct" (VI, Al 6+, M8, 800m). In location like Les Drus, with the camera of Bertrand Delapierre, you are guaranteed to get a lot of excellent alpine climbing footage. And as a filmmaker, it's a always frustrating to only use a few seconds of footage from such a great shoot. That's why we're releasing this series of rough cuts. Turn up the volume, relax, and enjoy some beautiful climbs.
Film directed by Guillaume Broust
/ guillaume_broust
/ guillaumebroust
Camera work by Bertrand Delapierre
/ bdelapierre
Music
Zikali - "Lost in Fog" (www.zikali.com)
© Petzl 2016
www.petzl.com
One of the greatest to ever do it. I watched him practically walk past me in the alps on a climb right at my limit. I was cold and tired and a little gripped, he ask me if I was okay, pointed me in the right direction and made me feel much better before he disappeared above me. I will never forget that. RIP
That's an amazing story! We all miss him.
N mxm9zkz0zzz9mzm9zkz \0slslkzzmz9zmz9🟤📀🟤🙃🔴📞📞📞🤍🤍🤩📞📞🥳🙃🖤🖤🙂🔴📀⌨️📀📞📞📀📀🤍📞🖤🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍📞📞📞📞🟧🟧🙃🟤🥳🙃😉😉🙃🥳🙃😉🙃😉🥳🤪🤨😑🤪🤨🤫😑😶😑🤬🙂🤔😑🤬😑🤬🧐😶
which climb?
Like meeting Kobe Bryant at local park epic
Gosh so cool. Reminds me the last time we passed each other on Everest
This just popped back onto my feed. One of the greats. Miss this guy. RIP
The man was a true genius. He advanced his sport by 10 years. He showed us all what was truly possible with his light and fast speed climbs.
Alexis Zaganidis you’re an idiot. It’s his life.
I did the first ascent of this variant in 1977 with Jack Roberts, Mugs Stump and Randy Trover. We retreated from where it joins the regular route( just above the corner at 1:49) in a huge storm. Tobin Sorenson and Rick Accomazo did the whole thing our variant and the regular route to the top ten days later.
Respect... and R.I.P. To Mugs, Tobin and Roberts
For real, you are a legend.
wow!
Rest in Peace Legend. You were humble and a true ambassador to the sport.
No, just stupid and selfish
Et sans commentaire c'est mieux....on regarde la force, la magie, la beauté de l'acte de ce grand alpiniste. Merci.
Ein Ausnahmesportler, der als einer der ganz Wenigen im Alpinsport diese Bezeichnung zurecht erhielt. Mir wird ganz anders, wenn ich mir vorstelle ich müsste durch so eine Wand.
Was dieser Mann alpinistisch in so kurzer Zeit geleistet hat ist richtungsweisend. Daneben wirken andere ehemalige Größen trotz hohem Bekanntheitsgrad dank unermüdlicher Eigenpromotion dann doch eher bescheiden.
Ich werde Ueli jedenfalls nie vergessen, hat er mich bei meinen äußerst bescheidenen Unternehmungen stets mental angespornt und mit seinen sportlichen Leistungen bis zur Euphorie begeistert.
This north face of "Les Drus" is one of the hardest spot you can climb on the planet...and Ueli is - as usual - calm but still fast in his movements...wow, rest in peace man...
So doing K2's west face or GIV's west face isn't harder?
@@mpreiss7780 he said one of the hardest you dumbass, meaning there are other equally hard or harder climbs, it was from 2 years ago have some respect for the man in the video
@@MrSpenc1997 Wooohh my comment had nothing to do with the guy climbing in the video as I know les dru has very difficult climbing I just thought the comment was little over the top.
Mate how can you compare a low altitude technical climb to a high altitude climb that most likely doesn’t involve vertical technical climbing like les Drus? Doesn’t make sense…
@@stonersixtynine2980 I guess 'hard" climbing doesn't mean the same for everyone. The faces i mentioned do have technical climbing. I'm sure up to 5.9 M5 and possibly aid and at over 7000 Meters, so hardly a walk up. If pure technical numbers are all that matters I'm sure there's "harder" places like Howse peak's east face or even at pure mixed climbing areas. Les drus is awesome but hardest spot on earth?
I never knew I could hold my breath for 3 minutes.
extreme mountaineering ua-cam.com/video/89ROc-xpCJY/v-deo.html
Yes, very nice to have so healthy lungs... once in 1998 when I was 21, I remember I held my breath for 3 minutes and 42 seconds in the stream water and there was none of the others even to cross half and a minute..
Human body is like your friend,, if you understand yourself and talk to each of your body cells for example talking to your fingers, eyes, etc and then addressing your abstract-self specially your neurons... you can then make friends with your body and once you begin to successfully control your body, you can even stop your breathing for five minutes.
I didn't exhale until I read your comment. This footage is *astonishing*. To see how quick and confident they are in their axe and crampon placement, on terrain that makes a cactus look like a massage chair... there could only ever be one Ueli!
Not a climber but I always think of this guy when I'm skiing and happen to look at distant high peaks. I find it hard to be sad about his death, because he literally conquered everything in life.
Strength, skill and determination. He was a good climber who made a fatal mistake.
He died well and he knew it was likely he would end like that
Dead in your 40's. That's all
Me: Is he soloing this vertical wall?
Also me: Aah no, he has a rope
Also also me: He's 30 feet above his last runner
Bro that's literally me lmao
I'm like "what does he have against protection?!" lol
Ueli Steck. The mountaineer's mountaineer. Emperor among kings. Lord among giants. Such souls are incarnated only once.
You people need help
Wow. I'm just recently devouring every mountaineering conquest and disaster piece in the Himalayas i can get my hands on. The history of these mountains and those who attempt to climb them is just fascinating. In the process, I'm learning of many of the first to attempt these climbs, and those who first successfully climbed some of these 8,000 meter peaks. Along the way, you start to learn of some of the greatest to ever climb....and then I stumbled onto this guy simply because the Sherpas wanted to kill him at Everest- it peaked my interest on who he was. Very surprised to find out his resume is about as impressive as they get. Really glad I looked into who this person was. RIP Ueli- would sill love to know what he did that infuriated the Sherpas to that extent
Yeah dude I fell down the Alpinism rabbit hole
Impensabile una salita così per la maggior parte degli alpinisti!
Solo tu riuscivi a stupire...
Resterà un grande ricordo ineguagliabile delle tue imprese!
Non ti dimenticheremo mai Ueli!
Giuly Zanga penso che abbia ispirato tanto anche Daniele, ora sono insieme lassù
extreme mountaineering ua-cam.com/video/89ROc-xpCJY/v-deo.html
great video. Ueli Steck the legend for ever. Steck is so impressive. Amazing
amazing edit! Love the clean footage without music and stories. Very nice
Rip Legend ueli steck
Non meritava di lasciarci così presto!
Un mito una leggenda...impareggiabile!
Amoluck .
Heath Cliff you are a twat.
@@heathcliff8624 R.I.P Ueli
@Jed Butcher Heroin overdose
Amazing! I don't climb but it's just astonishing to me how these folks do this! Love the videos!
BrokenRRT I'm afraid to say you won't see anymore from this incredible man, he died on Everest (Nuptse) to be exact, whilst acclimatising for an Everest lhotse traverse by the west ridge/hornbein couloir, so sad, he will be missed.
Horrible and sad!
Good mRne
Only recently learned of this incredible athlete and mourn the passing of an extremely talented and fearless mountaineer and extreme sportsman.
This old Kiwi rocker salutes you and prays you R.I.P.
Amazing strength all of these climbers. It doesn't matter if they try doing this. They are all simply awesome!
Rest in peace Ueli, you will always remain the greatest alpine climber.
No, the dumbest one and not an example to follow in anyway. Disregarding safety for some bucks more is the antithesis of sport.
@@andreaaltan3982 It is personal choice what level of risk we all take in life. What may seem dumb to you, might be the only way he wants to live his life. I certainly know of people in BASE who were very obviously going to go in at some point and told about it. They knew it and accepted it.
@@Superterminal Maybe, maybe. But NEVER the "greatest alpine climber". It is exactly like calling the "greatest driver" a guy who arrives first by running the red lights. To celebrate such mentality is dangerous for the YOUNG people who get the false impression that that is an example to follow. He deserves rather a title like the "Most Negligent Climber" in modern times.
@@andreaaltan3982 I don't know. "The greatest whatever" is always so hard to qualify in any sport and he was certainly up there with them. The fact is, that speed records have been set and broken for years and years now. The only way you are going to break them now, is to climb at the expense of safety. If that's what he chose to do then he knew the risks. I cannot comment with regards to mountaineering, but if it's anything like BASE you / he will know and have met many friends that die in the sport over the years. Sadly it is just part of it. I also think it condescending to assume that "young people" are all the same and cannot see the risks he takes.
@@Superterminal of course he can do whatever he wants and break all arithmetically fabricated (and useless) "records". The problem is in praising or celebrating such self destructive behavior.
It's the first time I've seen Ueli moving slow!
+OlsenUpdate Me too!...
You mean relatively slow!
OlsenUpdate Its because its filmed in slowmo...
OlsenUpdate
now he is not moving at all!
Still that liddle icecrust on the rock if it falls off ...
Absolutely breathtaking!
Human at it's mental and physical pinnacle!
Can't believe he wasn't taking ice shards to the eyes, it was flying everywhere. RIP to one of the best in the mountains.
good to just enjoy, without the talking
Seriously. Right
:(
Would be even better without the music
Ueli steck is greatest mountaineer of all time... Whenever in history we will take name of Reinhold Meissner.... Like people we will remember ueli steck also... True ALPINIST... I salute him
Ueli Steck will always be remembered as an exceptional mountaineer. He was on an acclimatizing climb on Everest in April, 2017, when he fell 3,280' to his death in terrain that was not very difficult. He may have had 20 to 30 seconds to know he was going to die, that's a long time. Tragic. It can happen to anyone, but he was climbing for speed and without oxygen, so his brain MAY have been not at its best due to some degree of hypoxia. He was only 40 years old. Such a tragedy; RIP, Ueli, you will never be forgotten as the "Swiss Machine" and for your ability, energy and unparalleled daring!
Nice tribute to a truly great man …. Ueli was one of a rare breed. But please stop the guess work .... you don't know how long he knew he was going to die. You don't know what state his brain was or if he was suffering from hypoxia!
No need for your guess work.
RIP Ueli,
@@3vimages471 Unless he hit his head somehow and was knocked out, he knew. Do some scientific research to see how many seconds it takes to fall 3280 feet, and research what hypoxia does to the brain, it is certain at that altitude for the human body to be hypoxic and unless he wasn't human, it most certainly affected him. Balance, coordination, concentration, vision and motor skills and bodily functions all break down. At 11,500', where it starts affect the body physically and mentally, there is only 65% as much O2 as the body needs, at 18,000' there is only 50% of the O2 needed, and at 25,000', the body will start to shut down due to lack of oxygen after a short amount of time.
That should tell you that ANY human's brain will be affected from a lower oxygen level and it IS DANGEROUS, even for the most experienced, acclimated climber!!
@@3vimages471 NO GUESS WORK, 3V, its FACT: do some research!
M.J. Leger Well done Einstein, you just defeated your own argument with your opening word "UNLESS" ........ so unless something else happened, I am definitely right! Ha ha ha.
As I said, stop with the guess work when nobody knows why Ueli fell.He could have been hit by rock or ice and been totally unconscious for all you know. And I don't need your Wikipedia lessons about hypoxia and oxygen levels at altitude; either; I have been up the Khumbu glacier to Everest Base Camp at 5300m ...... have you?
My lesson for you; think first and stop making an idiot out of yourself!
@@3vimages471 It is NOT about you, narcissist, it is for others who are interested enough to learn something! You're obsolete, so bye, bye, bye to you!
Great video, thank you very much for sharing with us.
After a very long career in rock climbing, ice climbing, and alpine adventures, now in my 80th year I think that I must have been crazy to take those risks.
Glad you lived through it all.
Ueli with a belay! Unusual!
RIP champ.
God Bless him.
I think even God would be proud of this man.
Love the music.
RIP :(
Listening to the sounds if him climbing is so relaxing. RIP legend
Dumnezeu sa te ierte ! Ai fost cel mai autentic alpinist !
2:45 I`m screaming "Ice screw....Protection"!
Yeh, looks insane :D It's probably not as steep as it seems in that angel. Might be the part he is climbing around 2:18, so not so difficult...for him.
@@doppelcorn1 Exactly. If you film upside down, _everything_ looks insane.
Cornelius Kuhn i am pretty sure it is that steep, he is just a bit crazy;)
It was filmed to intentionally look steeper than it is. That section is only class 2. Easy as walking.
extreme mountaineering ua-cam.com/video/89ROc-xpCJY/v-deo.html
Very interesting video & country nice video .thx for sharing and greetings from Canada ✌💕🍷🍻🍁👏
Ueli and Arnold are just on another level. RIP Ueli.
What an enormous loss to the mountaineering community. He is what you would call a true mountaineer, not the many amateurs that are guided up Mount Everest, where they are virtually dragged up to the various camps by the Sherpas.
RIP UELI STECK, Legend!!!
Really? ridiculous
I miss him. He got me into the sport. He is singular. Amazing and mesmerizing at the same time.
What happen to him??
As do I 😔
@finen
He fell thousands of feet. How could you not see this coming?
Like all the clowns who glorify this selfish activity
Never ever lose your grip ! So very sad he left us... there is an empty place on the mountain .
Now this is real Mountain Climbing not what they are doing on Mount Everest. RIP...
It's silly to compare technical mixed/ice to Everest. They are totally different beasts. There's nothing easy or "not serious" about climbing Everest, even if it's not technical.
somebody with a lot of experience at both lol
RIP ueli
@That Flippin Guy Yes, likely because he brought walking poles and not ice axes, and fell...
@@jasonshields515 The climb of this video or Everest?
This climb was done by professionals using proper equipment, and therefore safer than, for example, walking in the icefall on the standard Everest route.
Still a relatively risky activity, but not that much worse than riding a motorcycle.
❤️🙏💪🦁Grande Ueli. Ci manchi tanto Swiss machine! Un ammiratore Siciliano
Et sutout un grand Bravo à Bertrand Delapierre qui filme tout ça avec Maestria. Respect.
So sad and hugh lost that one of the best climbers Uli Steck died in the mountains..! Man machine R.I.P. :-(
Brave and most stunning video.
Thanks for sharing 🙂
What a brave men! I salute you I felt sick looking at them climbing.
You have no idea what brave means
Many thanks. You have risked your life so that we can comfortably look at the wonderful and indescribable nature at home in the apartment.
Great. I would have liked it. Unfortunately, I don't have enough money.
I don't think is why he or others climb but okay and hey if you live near a mountain range climbing is free with a little bit of equipment and free time
The swiss machine is unstoppable. Also liked the way he changed the colors of the clothes. ;-)....
Only Ueli can change clothes on a vertical climb!
there are two climbers swapping leads
And now there is one
The Lord has stopped him now
Hubris?
Heroe, raised Annapurna in solo shoes to save Iñaki Otxoa's life from Olza. God bless you.
I loved ice climbing but I never understood how people could enjoy mixed climbing. It's so hard to develop a feel for the stone with your front points. Huge credit to the guys and gals that do it.
Good Job.. Bravo Uli..!! from Two Climbers of Indonesia.
This what you called a true athlete , this is reality at ,its finest
a moment of respect for these people with so much courage
Nothing at all courageous about it
Seriously, how can one person have so much guts/ courage. Watching this climb proves to me i have none. Or its well hidden.
Be kind to yourself man.
E tutto meravigliosamente bello!!! Che video ragazzi!!!!
RIP tu est l'alpiniste qui m'a le plus inspiré
the Swiss machine baby!!!!!!!! the best!!! I love this guy!!!
Ice cold focus. Just beautiful
Magnificent, thanks for sharing
REST IN PEACE.
rip
o
You guys are so amazing.
First video in my life that I put like in the first five second. Amaizing.
Climbers, dont't feel scary, panic?
Watching this in 2023, Uli's technique & gear is still impressive. Wondering by when both will seem outdated
Awesome climbing and wonderful recording!
Thanks
Really thrilling, wonderful 👍
ni viendolo puedo entender el talento de este hombre, simplemente me desborda la imaginacion,
RIP. He was a legend !
First time watching this guy... All the time thinking of The Wall in Game of Thrones.
R.I.P. Ueli ....... The Swiss Machine
Great 🙏no words to express
You can tell that they are pros. Their equipment is the best and maintained properly!
Классное лазание! Супер! Отлично снято, спасибо!
Legends get remembered but kings never die they ,just grow wings and they fly. R.I.P
The man, the myth, the legend.
Awesome!!! The greatest purist of all times!!
Messner was pretty good about that stuff too
What a legend he was¡ The fastest at anything. Climbed straight to heaven¡
music : Alexander winn - Al-Qahira
Just wondering how the hell they descend afterwards...
abseil down the rope... or if it is a mountain with an easier way down then you go that way.
How awesome would it be if we could enjoy a walk down the side walk as much as these men can enjoy this experience? In other words what if an average everyday experience could be as exhilarating as this?
+Jordan Manco It is the risk and danger that makes it so exhilarating. You will never get that on walking down the street, no matter how "dangerous" the area may be. And for people like Ueli Steck and others who devote their life to true sports like Alpinism, every day can be as exhilarating as this.Go to Chamonix and find out for yourself.
RIP ... The Greatest !!
Some of those camera angles make it look a touch steeper than it is! Looks like a pretty good line though.
Oh so it isn't steep! Stupid comment! Have you been there?
The north couloir is clearly very steep - although if you know anything at all about the way camera angles change the perspective of a climber you'd understand my previous comment.
Only the top icefields have any camera angle weirdness - the steep mixed pitches really are *that* steep. When you abseil down, you swing out from the rock.
i agree, what a stupid comment.
@Chris
What is stupid is climbing like this..
One word; nuts !
awesome filming and climbing
Ueli was one of a kind. such class.
Truly an inspiration, he is awesome. RIP.
La vache ! Quel loisir !
Ciao Ueli, se ne vanno sempre i migliori :-(
Quel niveau et quelle maitrise ! Quand des personnages de cette trempe disparaissent ils laissent un grand vide et pour longtemps !
Yeah........what about the guy filming !!! Balls of steel !!!
In what way are these guys secured when they are going up there, I can see some ropes? What would happen if they fall?
There are ice screws, nuts and friends you can place into rock or ice (only the screws in ice) which have carabiners attached into which you clip the rope. The rope itself is elastic to absorb the brunt of the force of a fall. They are tested so that even a 20m fall will be within the save margin. In this type of climbing it is more likely the gear will rip out of the wall than anything else.
I'm curious how is this shot? another climber ahead and just holding camera still?
Mi maximos respetos a este hombre unico!
Is it just me or does the footage look a little rotated from 2:30ish onwards...
Jesus, what an intimidating route.
impressionnant...Respect
I am considering changing my name to something with a couple vowels at the beginning to see if it helps my climbing abilities.
Mephistopheles
😆💪❤️
My name is dani. Doesnt work.
Thanks, very relaxing, feeling like I am lá-haut with them.
I'd love to see the full film but can't find it for sale or viewable anywhere.
Ueli you are the greatest mountaineer ever, RIP.
Sad to know he is no more.. :(
serious question! how do you get down a slope like that?
you cand rappel putting the rope in a V thread in ice, behind a rock, ar leaving an ice screw or other protection in the wall.
Jump! No seriously, is by a helicopter