climb harder, avoid injury
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2024
- I've been climbing about 6 years now and those years have been riddled with injury. I mostly find ways to continue training around (not thru) the injuries, but that can be difficult to manage and still result in lost progress. Recently, I have pulled back on my climbing frequency and really focused up on what I believe is the most important aspect for long term improvement. Maybe you will find something useful in this video.
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Great video Justin
Thanks dad!
Great vid man, hope it's enough to stop my friends from overtraining into injuries
😂 doubt it
Dude, really great video. Keep it up bro. Nice send too man. Missile is a hard one
Thanks dude. Yeah, it was very particular and pretty powerful. Def my style tho
1. That V5 looks wicked hard
2. I I have a theory that all injuries are only possible with a mix of overtraining which leads to dehydration. But dehydration alone is enough to cause an injury without hardly any Force.
1. It is! 😂
2. I like the theory a lot. I have heard a lot about dehydration especially with joint injuries but I could see it more broadly. And I am more convinced everyday that volume is the most dangerous thing!
Nice video and thank you for making this. I learned my injuries came down to doing to much in one session, not warm up properly, or do a climbing session during an rest day. Hey we all have to fail and make mistakes to learn 😅
No problem, thank you for watching! Definitely agree with all of that 🤙
I thought that looked like Morrison, until you said it!
Have you tried Helicopter V6? Super fun and sequency.
Heck ya! Helicopter took me like 6 sessions to send lol super good boulder, one of my favs
good video keep it up
🙏 thanks for watching! I will!
How old would you consider "too old" to be bouldering all of the time?
Depends on the person I guess. I’m hoping to continue seeing progress in bouldering until maybe 45 or so? At some point your max strength starts to plateau or go down, but continuing to boulder will help maintain strength as you get older too… sooo 🤷♂️ lol
@JustinConnor89 this is encouraging, im super motivated to climb right now and im turning 30 this year :)
You got loads of time! I started at 29, 35 now, and I plan to still focus on bouldering for the next 7-10 years at least - more if I keep improving! Then we move onto the sport and trad goals in that order lol
There is no correlation between trad and lower intensity. There are 5.12 trad climbs and 5.7 sport climbs. The breakdown looks nice on a chart though I guess. If there's a correlation between trad climbing and being older it probably has more to do with the cost of all the gear needed than anything else.
It’s certainly much more complicated than that, but for most folks they do their longer easier climbs on trad (which definitely targets the aerobic system) but like you said, I was mostly going for “looks good on a chart.” To me, the cost and the non-climbing time investment are both deterrents until I’m a bit older
I like your training strategy though and I've noticed that all the times I've injured finger pulleys it was after really long sessions.
Totally. It’s a flip from what I did early on (climb as much as you can and just go easy when you don’t feel 100%), but so far seems to have better results. I hope to be able to increase training volume again in the future after my body has some more years to acclimate
ohhh so no wonder there is lots of trad daddies.. lol i kid but it explains why i have met lots of 60+ trad and sometimes sports climbers
😂 dude for real tho. You can keep improving your trad game forever! That’s why I’m in no rush to trad climb lol
great vid§!
🙏 thank you! Really appreciate you watching