You should tighten the left hand cam holders before the right, so that the small amount of valve lift is taken up by the middle cyliner cam holders first. Tightening the right cam holders first applies a bending force to the camshafts. Nice clear vid - thanks
Thanks for the comment.... I just re-watched the video and I'm trying to figure out what you mean.... Somewhere around the 10 minute mark I am showing the tightening sequence.... The left cam cap as it's being filmed is one solid chunk that holds down the intake and exhaust cams whereas at the right they are separated. I believe you take it apart at 125 degrees before top dead center so there isn't a lot of force on the camcaps.... There was only one tiny little gap(about half a millimeter) on the third row of bolts from the left by the middle exhaust valves.... This gap was easily eliminated by the Criss-Cross tightening pattern. This is the valve that makes it hard to turn the exhaust camshaft when setting the timing as shown in part 2 of this video..... Didn't notice enough force to bend a camshaft when tightening.... I read in several forums where people would get the chain on the camshafts correctly and then use the Caps to tighten and push those middle exhaust valves down...but that would crack the caps for sure.... This is why I tightened the camcaps first, then rotated the exhaust cam with a tool to get the timing set per the second video in the series.... Please explain...maybe I'm missing something....
@@meticulousmechanicI'll come clean and admit I haven't had the top off yet but it's a job for this year when I hit 24k miles. I like to be ready for what I'm likely to find. No matter how many bikes you work on they're all slightly different and you can easily be caught out. Ive been reading through the shim changing section in my Haynes manual and they are adamant the you must start by tightening the bolts above the no 2 cylinder- the ones in the left-hand (ie two separate) camcaps to prevent pivoting the cam shafts about the slightly-open no 2cylinder valves. I believe you started tightening the bolts on the right hand, double camcap. Thanks again
thanks for responding...if anyone is reading this, the video is filmed looking from front to back whereas I think roast chicken 9143 observations of left and right are as if you are sitting on the bike looking forward. Regardless of that clarification, I find it interesting that the official Yamaha manual just says reinstall the camcaps and tighten in a criss cross pattern. The Haynes manual is "adament." I'm not sure what is meant by "prevent pivoting the cam shafts about the slightly-open no 2cylinder valves." From my experience, when I tightened in a criss cross fashion, I did not notice any excessive force on the camcap or camshaft above cylinder 2 exhaust valve....if I did it again, I would condsider the Haynes procedure...maybe after drawing down all the bolts to finger tight, I would tighten the bolts near exhaust valve two more first than all the others but still maintain a criss cross pattern to prevent excessive force on the campcaps which seem to be made of light weight aluminum and could crack easily. If anyone sees what we are missing, feel free to chime in!@@roastchicken9143
Just rewatched my video... You would have to mark it in three places... The two cam gears and down on the crankshaft gear.... It could be a good reference but I would just follow the procedure I laid out... ultimately relying on the camshaft timing marks and the crankshaft at the correct rotation....
is it really necessary to remove that cover on right side of engine to ensure chain doesnt fall of the small sprocket on crank? i didnt see that step for other videos on youtube nor does the manual specify. this is my only concern.... i have already watched part 2
It's not necessary, if you're really good and pay attention to what's happening down there.... I go into great detail in the videos on what could happen..... My chain got jammed up because I was filming and messing with it while I was trying to explain.I tried to invent a tool to hold the chain up so it wouldn't fall off.... I would say hang a wrench on it instead of trying zip ties which you'll see in my video. It's not a lot of work to take the cover off... Have a new gasket in stock before you start.... Good luck and let me know how it goes thanks Robert
@@meticulousmechanic It is extremely important to make sure the chain is completely wrapped around the crank gear. The chain can drop off the gear and get too much slack in it. The slack results in the chain getting kinked, it acts like it is really connected to the gear when the chain is installed to the cam gear. When the cams are timed the slack is taken out. When the crank is rotated the chain jumps off the cam gear, which puts the cam out of alignment. The little nudge to the chain at 3:40 MUST BE DONE. Then the chain must have positive tension applied to it continuously to prevent it dropping off the crank gear. Learning this took me many hours. I went through lots of zip ties. I aligned the cams many, many times only to have the chain jump off the exhaust cam gear when I rotated the crank after what I thought was the end of the job.
@@meticulousmechanic all put back together didnt need to remove crankshaft sprocket cover. marked the timing chain to both cam sprockets. When I put back on. Just used a M6x1.0 bolt on intake cam sprocket to align it to chain mark and used a #2 phillips screw driver and pryed against chassis to move the exhaust cam sprocket to line up with chain mark I made.
![CRAZY Yamaha MT-09 Highway Run! | Pure Sound [4K]](/img/n.gif)
You should tighten the left hand cam holders before the right, so that the small amount of valve lift is taken up by the middle cyliner cam holders first. Tightening the right cam holders first applies a bending force to the camshafts. Nice clear vid - thanks
Thanks for the comment.... I just re-watched the video and I'm trying to figure out what you mean.... Somewhere around the 10 minute mark I am showing the tightening sequence.... The left cam cap as it's being filmed is one solid chunk that holds down the intake and exhaust cams whereas at the right they are separated. I believe you take it apart at 125 degrees before top dead center so there isn't a lot of force on the camcaps.... There was only one tiny little gap(about half a millimeter) on the third row of bolts from the left by the middle exhaust valves.... This gap was easily eliminated by the Criss-Cross tightening pattern. This is the valve that makes it hard to turn the exhaust camshaft when setting the timing as shown in part 2 of this video..... Didn't notice enough force to bend a camshaft when tightening.... I read in several forums where people would get the chain on the camshafts correctly and then use the Caps to tighten and push those middle exhaust valves down...but that would crack the caps for sure.... This is why I tightened the camcaps first, then rotated the exhaust cam with a tool to get the timing set per the second video in the series....
Please explain...maybe I'm missing something....
@@meticulousmechanicI'll come clean and admit I haven't had the top off yet but it's a job for this year when I hit 24k miles. I like to be ready for what I'm likely to find. No matter how many bikes you work on they're all slightly different and you can easily be caught out. Ive been reading through the shim changing section in my Haynes manual and they are adamant the you must start by tightening the bolts above the no 2 cylinder- the ones in the left-hand (ie two separate) camcaps to prevent pivoting the cam shafts about the slightly-open no 2cylinder valves. I believe you started tightening the bolts on the right hand, double camcap. Thanks again
thanks for responding...if anyone is reading this, the video is filmed looking from front to back whereas I think roast chicken 9143 observations of left and right are as if you are sitting on the bike looking forward. Regardless of that clarification, I find it interesting that the official Yamaha manual just says reinstall the camcaps and tighten in a criss cross pattern. The Haynes manual is "adament." I'm not sure what is meant by "prevent pivoting the cam shafts about the slightly-open no 2cylinder valves." From my experience, when I tightened in a criss cross fashion, I did not notice any excessive force on the camcap or camshaft above cylinder 2 exhaust valve....if I did it again, I would condsider the Haynes procedure...maybe after drawing down all the bolts to finger tight, I would tighten the bolts near exhaust valve two more first than all the others but still maintain a criss cross pattern to prevent excessive force on the campcaps which seem to be made of light weight aluminum and could crack easily. If anyone sees what we are missing, feel free to chime in!@@roastchicken9143
Could you have marked the chain and cams before removing them? Then assembly would be much more easy??
And agree about removing the lower cover!
Just rewatched my video... You would have to mark it in three places... The two cam gears and down on the crankshaft gear.... It could be a good reference but I would just follow the procedure I laid out... ultimately relying on the camshaft timing marks and the crankshaft at the correct rotation....
is it really necessary to remove that cover on right side of engine to ensure chain doesnt fall of the small sprocket on crank? i didnt see that step for other videos on youtube nor does the manual specify. this is my only concern.... i have already watched part 2
It's not necessary, if you're really good and pay attention to what's happening down there.... I go into great detail in the videos on what could happen..... My chain got jammed up because I was filming and messing with it while I was trying to explain.I tried to invent a tool to hold the chain up so it wouldn't fall off.... I would say hang a wrench on it instead of trying zip ties which you'll see in my video. It's not a lot of work to take the cover off... Have a new gasket in stock before you start.... Good luck and let me know how it goes thanks Robert
@@meticulousmechanic It is extremely important to make sure the chain is completely wrapped around the crank gear. The chain can drop off the gear and get too much slack in it. The slack results in the chain getting kinked, it acts like it is really connected to the gear when the chain is installed to the cam gear. When the cams are timed the slack is taken out. When the crank is rotated the chain jumps off the cam gear, which puts the cam out of alignment.
The little nudge to the chain at 3:40 MUST BE DONE. Then the chain must have positive tension applied to it continuously to prevent it dropping off the crank gear.
Learning this took me many hours. I went through lots of zip ties. I aligned the cams many, many times only to have the chain jump off the exhaust cam gear when I rotated the crank after what I thought was the end of the job.
@justintowers8230
Haven't heard back did you get your valves adjusted? Any lessons learned?
@@meticulousmechanic all put back together didnt need to remove crankshaft sprocket cover. marked the timing chain to both cam sprockets. When I put back on. Just used a M6x1.0 bolt on intake cam sprocket to align it to chain mark and used a #2 phillips screw driver and pryed against chassis to move the exhaust cam sprocket to line up with chain mark I made.
Hello! I have a question if I may! How many kilometers are on this MT09?
24,944 miles x 1.609 km/mile = 40,143km
Thank You 😁
@@pupi7 You're welcome... Are you getting ready to do a valve check and adjust or some other maintenance?