It gives me some satisfaction to see that I played a small little part in this build. It's always interesting to see someone use one of my products (or part of a product) in an unconventional manor like this. It's a good thing that I designed those front mounted brackets to be very rigid as that fuel pump will likely put a reasonable amount of load on it.
So much info!! This channel will blow up real quick, I know it's beating a dead horse with this question, but why would Matt chose the smallport over bigport?
Thanks man it would be awesome if the channel blew up. Mat likes the 16v because it has more valve spring options and the small port has a rear head drain from factory.
16:55 go with a magnetic hall sensor instead of a VR sensor, they are highly prone to noise and cause all sorts of problems, with a hall sensor, you can use your 32 tooth trigger wheel and have a good solid 5V or 12 V on off signal direct to your ecu, had loads of experience with this and its well worth it. Awesome build!
Those cam belt stabilizer are must need at high rpm and high boost.. cant tell you how many times I jumped belt teeth on the sprocket. Glad that solved my issues too
I believe this is the first one so Mat hasn’t started selling them yet but you can message him on Instagram or Facebook @mtperformanceengines if you’d like to find out when they’ll be available
Hey good morning good day good afternoon and good night how are you doing. I have a Question what part of the world you are .I like to watch your programs I am Learning about my engine .
Inside that big flat 2J sensor is a narrow VR (Variable Reluctance) sensor - I suspect your high tooth count might have too narrow teeth to be reliably and cleanly read by that sensor with that diameter. 36 teeth is easily done, but usually around 120mm diameter, not 65mm diameter like a 4AGE lower sprocket. With respect to the timing inaccuracy, typically you take that into account in your tune and just end up with a low-output tune, not a dead engine, as the higher parts of the variable timing cause audible detonation that you can dial the tune back away from leaving the lower parts of the variable timing overly retarded. That's the real benefit of the crank mounted setup, a tighter tune, closer to optimal.
If you look at my Instagram account you will find that it's now a 5v digital hall sensor (cherry) and has been since about a week after this video I made the 2j reluctor fit and then adapt a cherry so I could show the difference on an oscilloscope with relation to rising and falling on the wave length with both 12 and 24 tooth wheels and VR and digital hall (but do the subscribers want to see that probably not) Timing wander can be programmed into the ECU but I would rather correct the problem by getting a stable signal to the ECU and a 5v digital square wave sensor and laser cut trigger wheel will do that nicely
@@mtperformanceengines3508 Well, I personally would love to see those screen shots of a good quality scope and the VR sensor trying to read the fine wheel. It might work, I just think it isn't ideal as you shouldn't have gaps smaller than the sensor width (real element inside, not body). If you do what can happen is that the amount of magnetic flux doesn't change fully, as there's always some iron moving through in front of the sensor, rather than approaching and receding which is what generates the voltage (upwards of 100V RMS at high RPM on a high tooth count wheel with close sensor gap). Hall/optical and VR can both be made to work well. At a guess I'd say the hall would read the fine tooth wheel better, but I'm not 100% sure on that. You have the data, tell us? :-D Actually, I found some cherry hall effect sensor data sheets, different ones, all same specs, they require 2.5mm minimum tooth size and 10mm minimum tooth spacing. So that's actually worse than the 2J VR would cope with. The VR sensor from a stock 20v (or 4afe or 7afe or 3sge) dizzy would likely work better as it's designed for low diameter cam wheels that are I think a bit smaller than your home made wheel. BTW, I have 3 blacktops down stairs and a KP60 for them to go into, and 3 J160s to bolt up, gotta have spares when you hit them hard! :-D Also have an RB30DET in the build for another vehicle. Really cool to see someone else who understands oil drainage and blow by breathing decently well. Most have NO idea. :-D The ONLY OEM engine I've actually seen that has a good design for this for inline RWD applications is the 2JZ, it has large and equal holes down both sides of the block on each end and between every cylinder. Literally perfect. Agreed on precise timing vs dialling it back to cope with a shit sensor setup. No one onto it disagrees with that.
@@fredio54 ah if you like the rb Nissan engines I used to build and machine the motors for maatouks racing when I worked there back in the day I have built over 150 RB motors all making close to or well over 1000hp I know a thing or 2 about tuneup and engine building 😁
@@mtperformanceengines3508 I have no doubt about that, mate, and you look a lot like a friend of mine, too :-D coincidentally, he also has a 4age fetish :-) Maybe you didn't read all of the above because it was long, but please read this bit: "I found some cherry hall effect sensor data sheets, different ones, all same specs, they require 2.5mm minimum tooth size and 10mm minimum tooth spacing. So that's actually worse than the 2J VR would cope with. The VR sensor from a stock 20v (or 4afe or 7afe or 3sge) dizzy would likely work better as it's designed for low diameter cam wheels that are I think a bit smaller than your home made wheel." Basically you're WAY off the sensor manufacturer's spec and you should not trust any engine you care about to that fine tooth setup. Additionally the finer resolution ONLY helps you at low RPM ie while cranking. It does NOTHING good for your high RPM engine control. The least you can get away with on the crank is about 8 known edges unless you use hardware timing for cranking and then switch to scheduling thereafter. Use the 12 tooth and don't look back. Anyone that says you need more has no clue.
What camera do you have with the dead cat and the ND filter on the front? Just curious, couldn't quite make it out from the other shots that you can see it in.
The camera is a Sony a6300 which I’ve had forever lol, the microphone is a rode video micro and the dead cat came with it. I only use the shotgun mic for backup audio my main audio comes from two tascam DR-10L recorders and the lens is a Sony e10-18mm f4 oss. This isn’t the best setup money can buy it’s just what I’ve collected over the years when I found things for sale at a good price but it works well for what I’m doing
@@NEVER-LIFT Thanks for writing that up for me, much appreciated. That's not a bad setup at all IMO. I have a couple of Aussie made Rode mics (VideoMicro and VideoMic NTG and VideoMic Go 1) and a good collection of M43/MFT gear including a GH5 :-)
Not sure exactly Mat takes solid shims from a motor that comes with them standard and just happens to fit the 4age Don’t think he’s too keen on sharing that info though I believe other aftermarket companies produce them but they are just a little more expensive
It gives me some satisfaction to see that I played a small little part in this build. It's always interesting to see someone use one of my products (or part of a product) in an unconventional manor like this. It's a good thing that I designed those front mounted brackets to be very rigid as that fuel pump will likely put a reasonable amount of load on it.
i could listen to Mat explaining about 4age all day.
Yeah he does really well 👌
Far out. Im holding off my whole build until you finish the series. So informative
Lol I’m editing as fast as I can but it is a long term build so I hope you have time
@@NEVER-LIFT Hahah all good, I got nothing but time. Spare 4agze stripped down to the block anyway
This guy needs his own channel his knowledge on these motors are legendary for the average enthusiasts
@@mikylejames8785 Seriously! But I guess he's got enough stuff to do. Glad Niko could film and edit it all
So much info!! This channel will blow up real quick, I know it's beating a dead horse with this question, but why would Matt chose the smallport over bigport?
Thanks man it would be awesome if the channel blew up.
Mat likes the 16v because it has more valve spring options and the small port has a rear head drain from factory.
Incredible amount of info, stellar job
16:55 go with a magnetic hall sensor instead of a VR sensor, they are highly prone to noise and cause all sorts of problems, with a hall sensor, you can use your 32 tooth trigger wheel and have a good solid 5V or 12 V on off signal direct to your ecu, had loads of experience with this and its well worth it. Awesome build!
Thanks for the info man, I know Mat has recently changed to a 2j cherry sensor.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video
Great video. Not only Matt builds great engines he can also stop time. WTF is happening with the clock. All videos show the same time
Lol he’s just really really fast I slowed down the video in post so us mere mortals can understand it
Excellent info. Matt is a great teacher.
For sure man, every time a go to his shop I have a brain explosion 🤯
Very professional in his approach....
Those cam belt stabilizer are must need at high rpm and high boost.. cant tell you how many times I jumped belt teeth on the sprocket. Glad that solved my issues too
Love your vids man!!
@@TurnerJustis thanks for watching
Thank you for sharing! Hello from sunny southern California.
Cool all the way from California thanks mate👍
Toy Nation 👍🏼 rev 4ages
Love the content thanks for sharing
thanks mate, Plenty more coming just a matter of finding the time
Crazy how much you have to do to the 4g just to make power lol
appreciate the content. 10/10
Thanks man 😄
So how much boost can you pump into the 20v before popping the valves becomes an issue with those 60lb springs?
Really great video with a lot of information. How can I order the modified crank gear and oil pump?
Looking forward to seeing more videos
I believe this is the first one so Mat hasn’t started selling them yet but you can message him on Instagram or Facebook @mtperformanceengines if you’d like to find out when they’ll be available
@@NEVER-LIFT I will do. Thanks
Wouldn't hate to see a rod go on it 💔
Hey good morning good day good afternoon and good night how are you doing. I have a Question what part of the world you are .I like to watch your programs I am Learning about my engine .
Hey I’m good thanks mate, we’re from Australia
Inside that big flat 2J sensor is a narrow VR (Variable Reluctance) sensor - I suspect your high tooth count might have too narrow teeth to be reliably and cleanly read by that sensor with that diameter. 36 teeth is easily done, but usually around 120mm diameter, not 65mm diameter like a 4AGE lower sprocket. With respect to the timing inaccuracy, typically you take that into account in your tune and just end up with a low-output tune, not a dead engine, as the higher parts of the variable timing cause audible detonation that you can dial the tune back away from leaving the lower parts of the variable timing overly retarded. That's the real benefit of the crank mounted setup, a tighter tune, closer to optimal.
If you look at my Instagram account you will find that it's now a 5v digital hall sensor (cherry) and has been since about a week after this video
I made the 2j reluctor fit and then adapt a cherry so I could show the difference on an oscilloscope with relation to rising and falling on the wave length with both 12 and 24 tooth wheels and VR and digital hall (but do the subscribers want to see that probably not)
Timing wander can be programmed into the ECU but I would rather correct the problem by getting a stable signal to the ECU and a 5v digital square wave sensor and laser cut trigger wheel will do that nicely
@@mtperformanceengines3508 Well, I personally would love to see those screen shots of a good quality scope and the VR sensor trying to read the fine wheel. It might work, I just think it isn't ideal as you shouldn't have gaps smaller than the sensor width (real element inside, not body). If you do what can happen is that the amount of magnetic flux doesn't change fully, as there's always some iron moving through in front of the sensor, rather than approaching and receding which is what generates the voltage (upwards of 100V RMS at high RPM on a high tooth count wheel with close sensor gap). Hall/optical and VR can both be made to work well. At a guess I'd say the hall would read the fine tooth wheel better, but I'm not 100% sure on that. You have the data, tell us? :-D Actually, I found some cherry hall effect sensor data sheets, different ones, all same specs, they require 2.5mm minimum tooth size and 10mm minimum tooth spacing. So that's actually worse than the 2J VR would cope with. The VR sensor from a stock 20v (or 4afe or 7afe or 3sge) dizzy would likely work better as it's designed for low diameter cam wheels that are I think a bit smaller than your home made wheel. BTW, I have 3 blacktops down stairs and a KP60 for them to go into, and 3 J160s to bolt up, gotta have spares when you hit them hard! :-D Also have an RB30DET in the build for another vehicle. Really cool to see someone else who understands oil drainage and blow by breathing decently well. Most have NO idea. :-D The ONLY OEM engine I've actually seen that has a good design for this for inline RWD applications is the 2JZ, it has large and equal holes down both sides of the block on each end and between every cylinder. Literally perfect. Agreed on precise timing vs dialling it back to cope with a shit sensor setup. No one onto it disagrees with that.
@@fredio54 ah if you like the rb Nissan engines I used to build and machine the motors for maatouks racing when I worked there back in the day I have built over 150 RB motors all making close to or well over 1000hp I know a thing or 2 about tuneup and engine building 😁
@@mtperformanceengines3508 I have no doubt about that, mate, and you look a lot like a friend of mine, too :-D coincidentally, he also has a 4age fetish :-) Maybe you didn't read all of the above because it was long, but please read this bit: "I found some cherry hall effect sensor data sheets, different ones, all same specs, they require 2.5mm minimum tooth size and 10mm minimum tooth spacing. So that's actually worse than the 2J VR would cope with. The VR sensor from a stock 20v (or 4afe or 7afe or 3sge) dizzy would likely work better as it's designed for low diameter cam wheels that are I think a bit smaller than your home made wheel." Basically you're WAY off the sensor manufacturer's spec and you should not trust any engine you care about to that fine tooth setup. Additionally the finer resolution ONLY helps you at low RPM ie while cranking. It does NOTHING good for your high RPM engine control. The least you can get away with on the crank is about 8 known edges unless you use hardware timing for cranking and then switch to scheduling thereafter. Use the 12 tooth and don't look back. Anyone that says you need more has no clue.
What this man doesn't know about Toyota engines isn't worth knowing
Lol he’s a smart lad I have a brain explosion every time I speak to him 🤯
Are those oil pump/crank trigger kits ready for market?
he still hasn't had a chance to test his prototype, Both Mat and I have bee extremely busy with life and our projects have been put on the back burner
hi.where can i buy that mech fuel pump and adaptor ?
I'm curious, what's the fuel consumption of a 4AGE tuned to put out 800hp?
Not good 😂
its only consuming a massive amount of fuel when its making that power but cruising around its pretty much NA lol
Is any way to buy the oil pump trigger set up you have
PROPER!!!
What camera do you have with the dead cat and the ND filter on the front? Just curious, couldn't quite make it out from the other shots that you can see it in.
The camera is a Sony a6300 which I’ve had forever lol, the microphone is a rode video micro and the dead cat came with it.
I only use the shotgun mic for backup audio my main audio comes from two tascam DR-10L recorders and the lens is a Sony e10-18mm f4 oss.
This isn’t the best setup money can buy it’s just what I’ve collected over the years when I found things for sale at a good price but it works well for what I’m doing
@@NEVER-LIFT Thanks for writing that up for me, much appreciated. That's not a bad setup at all IMO. I have a couple of Aussie made Rode mics (VideoMicro and VideoMic NTG and VideoMic Go 1) and a good collection of M43/MFT gear including a GH5 :-)
is that a 7afe oil pump?
✅
how much power can I get from a 4af carburetor engine
not sure mate sorry
what kind of solid lifters youre using on the 20v head?
Not sure exactly Mat takes solid shims from a motor that comes with them standard and just happens to fit the 4age
Don’t think he’s too keen on sharing that info though
I believe other aftermarket companies produce them but they are just a little more expensive
AE86の4AGで800馬力を狙うのか？
🐕
I am in Washington State by Seattle. I am looking 4AGE engine builder... Any recommendations
You could try Mat he ships motors out and tunes cars remotely online
😁😁👍
🇲🇾😘
The guy talking needs a haircut
Maybe next time I’ll hand him the camera and I’ll do the talking 😂