Thank you your effort to made this video. Some additional torque info: Oil drain screw: 20nm, oil filter housing: 25nm, oil filter housing drain screw: 4nm.
Thank you for the clear instructional video! Not sure if I will be able to do all the servicing on the car but at the oil change has been made easy because of you! Much appreciated for the effort!
The filter housing was 32 mm for me, 2013 A8L 4.0T. Also, I think it's important to stress the safety glasses on this one when removing the belly pan, there's a lot of trapped dirt and crap on the fasteners that you don't want to get into your eyeballs =)
Great video, thank you. I have 2017 S7. My cover had 4 13mm bolts in place of XZN. Then, 3 T30’s across the back and 7 T25 1/4 turn’s sides and front. 32mm for filter. FYI in case anyone has ‘17.
This video was helpful however my 2017 S6(im 2nd owner)had t20 in the half turn locations (missing a few lol) and two t25's. The 4 xzn 12 point 8mm were instead 4 13mm lol. Oil drain was t45. Somewhere along the line someone lost some bolts and screws or changed them out. Great information though and I'll keep the xzn kit for gp.
Best video I've ever seen on "how to do" an oil change. Excellent commentary, super video shots and was glad to see the emphasis on safety. Just subscribed because of the video - I have a '16 Audi S7, 35K mi and love the car. In fact my garage queen S7 is my fav of lots of cool cars I've owned over the years - and I'm no spring chicken. Sorry to see the # if videos has really slowed down, surprised not a much larger # of subscribers.
Thank you @rickmcdowell9550 for the kind words. I still own and love my S7. I wish I had more time to create content, but family and work come first. I’ve taken on some bigger projects on other cars (i.e. manual transmission swap) that have proven time-consuming to complete, much less document and post. Hopefully I can get a few more videos posted.
I used to use Mobil 1, then switched to liqui moly. Very few oils meet the manufacturer requirements of you look into it. Liqui moly is one of them. My mobil used to burn off slowly but surely. No such issue with moly. Just thought I'd share!
The applicable Audi/VW Spec is 502.00, as referenced in the Audi Oil and Fuel Brochure: www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/MyAudi/audi-2017-oil-and-fuel-brochure%20.pdf There are numerous synthetic oils that meet the 502.00 spec, including Liqui Moly and Mobile 1. A comprehensive list is available here: www.carworklog.com/stuff/Oilchart.pdf
@@ProjectBiehlmeister thanks for the info. I specifically looked at the VW/AUDI group bulletin that looked like what you shared. Must have been an older iteration of the document. More than half of these weren't on the list when i last looked at it! Oil consumption was just my personal experience. My dad has an APR stage 2 b8.5 s4 and he had consumption prior to switching to liqui moly as well. Few of my Audi buddies had similar results. Again, purely anecdotal, but worth consideration id say. Great video btw
Awesome write-up. Appreciate the time to make the video and written details. You made it easy for us to do the job without worries of not having everything. Thumbs up :)
Glad it was useful! Next up...brake pad change. The light came on almost 6 months ago...luckily I have a Cummins-powered Dodge 5500 for a daily driver...for another 5 weeks.
Great vid..very much appreciated! One question. Wouldn't it make more sense to put the oil canister drain plug back in after you have replaced the filter cartridge rather than immediately after draining the oil? Just thinking since that tightening the plug prior to loosening the canister is counter intuitive. Also, for safety, I use jack stands in addition to the hydraulic jack to catch the car in case it were to fall off the jack.
You can do the filter plug reinstall in any sequence. I replace the canister drain plug immediately after draining the filter for the following reasons: 1) the canister will continue to slowly drip oil for a very long time - install the plug and avoid a few drips on you and/or the floor 2) you already have the correct attachment on your ratchet vs. possibly having to do an additional switch later 3) The fewer parts laying around the better - the more organized the work space the better 4) if you replace the plug immediately, you lessen the change of forgetting to reinstall it later. You don't want to forget and have 9 quarts of clean oil pour out the filter drain when you refill. As you probably noticed, I try to take as many safety precautions as possible. Wheel chocks, 2 jack stands, and the big block of wood. There is a small chance that if the car starts rolling, the jack stands could tip over. Safety First.
What I show in this video is similar to what would be required for a 3.0L diesel engine - but it is not exactly the same. The drain plug and oil filter will be different, but I'm not sure of the full details of those differences.
hi bro, could you tell me something? does this engine consume oil? i mean do you have to fill up a quart or two every 1000km or so? fyi, the porsche panamera turbo engines drinks oil..so you always have to keep some in your trunk to top up..which i heard is considered normal for race spec euro engines.. also, iyo, since the oil is being consumed, do you have to change the oil since there is constantly new oil being added and consumed or overtime the quarts added to the whole don't make much of a difference so it is recommended to change it soon.
I've never had to add oil to my Audi 4.0L turbo V-8 engine. For engines that do burn oil, adding new oil between changes does have some benefit due to replacement of additives that become depleted as the engine is run. However, oil replacement does not reduce oil filter loading because the amount of particulates being removed would be unchanged. There would still be an increased risk with extending the oil change interval.
I just paid $381 at Audi for an oil change including tax on my 2018 S7. And they said they sucked the oil out of the engine rather than draining it. Is that a better way to perform an oil change? Seems to me they wouldn’t get all the oil out that way but definitely saves time
From what I’ve seen, the oil suction tools get pretty much all of the oil out. It’s a huge time saver for the technicians. They should be able to drain, fill, and change the filter in 0.5 hours using that tool. I’m guessing the shop charged more than labor time plus materials.
Great video, very informative! Can you confirm that the socket you used to remove the oil filter housing is 34mm? I am preparing to change my oil, and the Audi service manual states it is 32mm. Also, I noticed you closed the door after turning the ignition on to disable the door open chime. I agree that it is obnoxious; you can also press the left arrow on the steering wheel to disable the chime :)
160Swift I can confirm that a 34 mm works without issue. It's relatively low torque, so as long as the size close, there will be no issues. It's extremely likely that it is in fact 32mm.
I have a 2016 s6 due for 25k service, no other issues warrant what dealership wants to charge for oil change , I paid close to 600 for the 10k oil change previously, 25k service is a chunk more ( and future basic maintenances) shall I pay up or paying less (1/3) from a notable local Audi shop.. will that somehow default any warranties in the near future? Any advice from owners will be greatly appreciated..
There is no requirement in the warranty that says you have to use Audi for the maintenance. Only that you have to perform the maintenance. Be sure to keep your receipts to prove that the maintenance was done if it ever comes into question. I also use the myCARFAX app to make sure all maintenance information is added for all of my cars. I do this for my own maintenance, as well as for anything done by a shop. Some shops have their systems auto-export work orders to CARFAX, but they often lack detail. Having everything in the CARFAX history is another way to make sure all work is recorded, which might help with the future resale value of your vehicle. But if nothing else, it's a great place to centralize service and maintenance work, and it's free.
The Audi recommended oil change interval is 10,000 miles / 1 year. Some owners recommend changing the oil every 5,000 miles to potentially help the turbo bearings last longer and to minimize plugging of the turbo oil line inlet filter. I'm not convinced that more frequent oil changes will make any significant difference unless the car is being driven extremely hard.
Jake Hwang There is some allowance for over and under filling. I recommend measuring carefully when refilling with oil. If it gets low due to oil consumption between oil changes, add a quart at a time.
If you have the 3.0T engine, buy this: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/engine-oil-dipstick/06e115611h/ You'll have more fun with it, than without it. Especially when LOOKING at the color of the oil, vs just relying on MMI's empty-full range.
1.Before the oil change check the oil level in the car systems- service and check - oil level menu. 2. Drain the used oil into a bin. Measure the amount of the oil. It should be less or close to 9 quart or 8.5 liter. 3. Fill in new oil at least the same amount as you drained. If you were on min level before the oil change add 0.5 liter more than drained. 4. Check the oil level. The min - max range represent roughly 1 liter range. If you have middle level than 0.4 liter would be ok, to top it up to max level. 5. If you get overfilled warning or the oil level show overfilled status than raise the car again and drain 0.2-0.4 liter. Plug it up and check the level again.
I agree that ramps give much better accessibility. I always got nervous driving up on them with no spotter - seemed like I was going to launch off the end! I got QuickJacks a couple of years ago and really like them, but they do take longer to setup.
I trust the system in the new cars generally. If you tune the car to make a lot more power then most tuners, including the popular APR chip for this car, recommend 3K oil changes and even plugs once a year. The idea is that fluids and plugs are cheap insurance.
Depends how hard you run your car. I you use the "high performance" of the 4T all the time I would change it sooner than 10K miles. I use my A8 4T as a highway cruiser at 65 MPH [ Old guy use] and over cautiously change it at 5K . Also I you live in Hot climates it is more important to check the oil for breakdown since Turbo life will be affected at very high temps- [ 125 degrees in Yuma anyone?]
I used to have a brand new A4 and Q5 and both had high oil consumption. I switched to Amsoil and this was the only oil I have found to reduce it the most. I highly recommend this: www.searchforparts.com/oil-change/audi-2013-s6-4.0l-ceuc-turbo
The most common method of reducing oil consumption is to use a higher viscosity oil. Lower viscosity oils (such as the 0W-40 recommended) flow more freely, which in general is a good thing, but also is more prone to higher oil consumption. If switching to a higher viscosity, make sure that it's still within the range recommended by the manufacturer. Also, if you live in an area with seasonal weather, higher viscosity can be used in the summer and lower viscosity in the winter (due to cold starts in the winter requiring lower viscosity oil for better flow prior to warm-up.)
Normally that's how I recommend that you deal with it. But you cannot do that as easily with an Audi. You have to use the oils that are compatible for that engine. You cannot use a 50 weight in an Audi because it has certain specs. You can only do that with Asian and Domestic cars. My Audi's were brand new when they were consuming oil. Castrol is the worst to use. It's only because Audi and BMW signed contracts to get the oil cheap. It's garbage oil.
843evorider If you’ve reviewed as many industrial accident reports as I have, you wouldn’t be laughing. Steel toe shoes can prevent or minimize some seriously bad injuries. www.documentingreality.com/forum/f149/19-mangled-crushed-feet-81951/
Watching someone pour oil is not very exciting, so I cut that out. I also didn’t show the new oil filter going back in. There’s nothing special or Audi-proprietary about either step, but I guess I could have at least said a few words about refilling. But there’s no way to redo it now!
![Audi 4.0TFSI DIY Oil Change | RS6/RS7, S6/S7, S8 at HOME [HOW-TO STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/O-RLeAUjE9g/mqdefault.jpg)
Dealer wanted $400 to change the oil, thanks for this.
Thank you your effort to made this video. Some additional torque info: Oil drain screw: 20nm, oil filter housing: 25nm, oil filter housing drain screw: 4nm.
Thanks for the additional information, I tend to have zero leaks when I torque to spec!!
Thanks for read my mind!
Thank you for the clear instructional video! Not sure if I will be able to do all the servicing on the car but at the oil change has been made easy because of you! Much appreciated for the effort!
EXCELLENT video! I have a 2018 S7, time to do this myself.
Hey, very informative - I have my first change due on my S6 and the filter/drain plug seal reference no's were well handy, nice one
Great video... Not sure why anyone would thumbs down it other than hating Audi for making this a pain to do. Thanks again!
Thanks for the positive feedback! Audi definitely doesn’t design for serviceability. The air/oil separator replacement was ridiculous...
Such a beautiful car
The filter housing was 32 mm for me, 2013 A8L 4.0T. Also, I think it's important to stress the safety glasses on this one when removing the belly pan, there's a lot of trapped dirt and crap on the fasteners that you don't want to get into your eyeballs =)
I confirmed 32mm as well - I don't even have a 34mm socket!
Yes, it’s very similar to the filter cartridges on an old VR6.
Great video, thank you. I have 2017 S7. My cover had 4 13mm bolts in place of XZN. Then, 3 T30’s across the back and 7 T25 1/4 turn’s sides and front. 32mm for filter. FYI in case anyone has ‘17.
This video was helpful however my 2017 S6(im 2nd owner)had t20 in the half turn locations (missing a few lol) and two t25's. The 4 xzn 12 point 8mm were instead 4 13mm lol. Oil drain was t45.
Somewhere along the line someone lost some bolts and screws or changed them out.
Great information though and I'll keep the xzn kit for gp.
Well done, Thank you. I especially appreciate the tools needed and size list.
Best video I've ever seen on "how to do" an oil change. Excellent commentary, super video shots and was glad to see the emphasis on safety. Just subscribed because of the video - I have a '16 Audi S7, 35K mi and love the car. In fact my garage queen S7 is my fav of lots of cool cars I've owned over the years - and I'm no spring chicken. Sorry to see the # if videos has really slowed down, surprised not a much larger # of subscribers.
Thank you @rickmcdowell9550 for the kind words. I still own and love my S7. I wish I had more time to create content, but family and work come first. I’ve taken on some bigger projects on other cars (i.e. manual transmission swap) that have proven time-consuming to complete, much less document and post. Hopefully I can get a few more videos posted.
@@ProjectBiehlmeister Glad to see you still have and love your S7 -
Really good safety protocol demo！
Thanks for this video, very helpful. I watched before I bought the (used) S7 and just watched again before I do my first S7 oil change.
Thanks for the positive feedback - glad you found it useful!
Thankyou very much for your video! The list of tools required is excellent and the step by step is extremely helpfull.
Easy peasy job done.
Thank you! Great video
You are welcome!
I used to use Mobil 1, then switched to liqui moly. Very few oils meet the manufacturer requirements of you look into it. Liqui moly is one of them. My mobil used to burn off slowly but surely. No such issue with moly. Just thought I'd share!
The applicable Audi/VW Spec is 502.00, as referenced in the Audi Oil and Fuel Brochure: www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/MyAudi/audi-2017-oil-and-fuel-brochure%20.pdf
There are numerous synthetic oils that meet the 502.00 spec, including Liqui Moly and Mobile 1. A comprehensive list is available here: www.carworklog.com/stuff/Oilchart.pdf
@@ProjectBiehlmeister thanks for the info. I specifically looked at the VW/AUDI group bulletin that looked like what you shared. Must have been an older iteration of the document. More than half of these weren't on the list when i last looked at it! Oil consumption was just my personal experience. My dad has an APR stage 2 b8.5 s4 and he had consumption prior to switching to liqui moly as well. Few of my Audi buddies had similar results. Again, purely anecdotal, but worth consideration id say. Great video btw
Awesome write-up. Appreciate the time to make the video and written details. You made it easy for us to do the job without worries of not having everything. Thumbs up :)
amul patel Thanks for the positive feedback!
very helpful
Glad to hear - thank you!
Great video and great safety measures.
Thanks 👍
Indeed, the safety measures are key. These cars are so heavy, The added block of wood and jack stands; smart touch! Thank you!
Thanks Carlton! Just watched the video before completing my oil change!
Glad it was useful! Next up...brake pad change. The light came on almost 6 months ago...luckily I have a Cummins-powered Dodge 5500 for a daily driver...for another 5 weeks.
Awesome video, great detail!! Thanks for taking the time to post this!!
Michael Schnippel Thanks for the positive feedback!
Can't thank you enough! Great video!
Thanks for the knowledge...
Great vid..very much appreciated! One question. Wouldn't it make more sense to put the oil canister drain plug back in after you have replaced the filter cartridge rather than immediately after draining the oil? Just thinking since that tightening the plug prior to loosening the canister is counter intuitive. Also, for safety, I use jack stands in addition to the hydraulic jack to catch the car in case it were to fall off the jack.
You can do the filter plug reinstall in any sequence. I replace the canister drain plug immediately after draining the filter for the following reasons:
1) the canister will continue to slowly drip oil for a very long time - install the plug and avoid a few drips on you and/or the floor
2) you already have the correct attachment on your ratchet vs. possibly having to do an additional switch later
3) The fewer parts laying around the better - the more organized the work space the better
4) if you replace the plug immediately, you lessen the change of forgetting to reinstall it later. You don't want to forget and have 9 quarts of clean oil pour out the filter drain when you refill.
As you probably noticed, I try to take as many safety precautions as possible. Wheel chocks, 2 jack stands, and the big block of wood. There is a small chance that if the car starts rolling, the jack stands could tip over. Safety First.
Thanks for this video!
how much does it cost for oil and oil filter and that small ring. how often do you change the oil? thanks in advance.
Hi man i have Audi A8 2016 3.0 engine diesel is it the same oil change like the video what you did or its different ?
What I show in this video is similar to what would be required for a 3.0L diesel engine - but it is not exactly the same. The drain plug and oil filter will be different, but I'm not sure of the full details of those differences.
hi bro, could you tell me something?
does this engine consume oil? i mean do you have to fill up a quart or two every 1000km or so?
fyi, the porsche panamera turbo engines drinks oil..so you always have to keep some in your trunk to top up..which i heard is considered normal for race spec euro engines..
also, iyo, since the oil is being consumed, do you have to change the oil since there is constantly new oil being added and consumed or overtime the quarts added to the whole don't make much of a difference so it is recommended to change it soon.
I've never had to add oil to my Audi 4.0L turbo V-8 engine.
For engines that do burn oil, adding new oil between changes does have some benefit due to replacement of additives that become depleted as the engine is run. However, oil replacement does not reduce oil filter loading because the amount of particulates being removed would be unchanged. There would still be an increased risk with extending the oil change interval.
On S8,2013 it is 32 mm to the oilfilter.
got it right the second time. It's It's cartridge filter, not cannister.
I am using Liqui Molly SAE-5W-40 is it as good as Mobil 1
Yes it is.
I just paid $381 at Audi for an oil change including tax on my 2018 S7. And they said they sucked the oil out of the engine rather than draining it. Is that a better way to perform an oil change? Seems to me they wouldn’t get all the oil out that way but definitely saves time
From what I’ve seen, the oil suction tools get pretty much all of the oil out. It’s a huge time saver for the technicians. They should be able to drain, fill, and change the filter in 0.5 hours using that tool. I’m guessing the shop charged more than labor time plus materials.
Did they change the filter? If they have to pull the bottom cover to get the filter, they might as well as pull the plug to get all the oil.
@@datsuntoyy Well, they charged me for a new filter so I have to assume they did.
Great video, very informative! Can you confirm that the socket you used to remove the oil filter housing is 34mm? I am preparing to change my oil, and the Audi service manual states it is 32mm.
Also, I noticed you closed the door after turning the ignition on to disable the door open chime. I agree that it is obnoxious; you can also press the left arrow on the steering wheel to disable the chime :)
160Swift I can confirm that a 34 mm works without issue. It's relatively low torque, so as long as the size close, there will be no issues. It's extremely likely that it is in fact 32mm.
Thanks brother, appreciate the quick reply!
Thank you, the beeping drives me nuts
I have a 2016 s6 due for 25k service, no other issues warrant what dealership wants to charge for oil change , I paid close to 600 for the 10k oil change previously, 25k service is a chunk more ( and future basic maintenances) shall I pay up or paying less (1/3) from a notable local Audi shop.. will that somehow default any warranties in the near future? Any advice from owners will be greatly appreciated..
There is no requirement in the warranty that says you have to use Audi for the maintenance. Only that you have to perform the maintenance. Be sure to keep your receipts to prove that the maintenance was done if it ever comes into question.
I also use the myCARFAX app to make sure all maintenance information is added for all of my cars. I do this for my own maintenance, as well as for anything done by a shop. Some shops have their systems auto-export work orders to CARFAX, but they often lack detail. Having everything in the CARFAX history is another way to make sure all work is recorded, which might help with the future resale value of your vehicle. But if nothing else, it's a great place to centralize service and maintenance work, and it's free.
Hi,
At 05:32, is it 34 or 36mm socket?
Thanks!
It was actually a 32mm. I’m glad I bought a set of sockets to cover the whole range. There’s a link in the description to the set I purchased.
I bought a size 8 and it doesn’t fit ( the 12 point star). I think it varies by cars
I just buy my oil and filter and have them do it at tune local so for $20
How many miles the oil change is good for ?
The Audi recommended oil change interval is 10,000 miles / 1 year.
Some owners recommend changing the oil every 5,000 miles to potentially help the turbo bearings last longer and to minimize plugging of the turbo oil line inlet filter. I'm not convinced that more frequent oil changes will make any significant difference unless the car is being driven extremely hard.
@@ProjectBiehlmeister Thank you.
Question, you need to fill up to full level but not over and How to check right level and what if you fill slightly over filled?
Jake Hwang There is some allowance for over and under filling. I recommend measuring carefully when refilling with oil. If it gets low due to oil consumption between oil changes, add a quart at a time.
If you have the 3.0T engine, buy this: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/engine-oil-dipstick/06e115611h/ You'll have more fun with it, than without it. Especially when LOOKING at the color of the oil, vs just relying on MMI's empty-full range.
1.Before the oil change check the oil level in the car systems- service and check - oil level menu.
2. Drain the used oil into a bin. Measure the amount of the oil. It should be less or close to 9 quart or 8.5 liter.
3. Fill in new oil at least the same amount as you drained. If you were on min level before the oil change add 0.5 liter more than drained.
4. Check the oil level. The min - max range represent roughly 1 liter range. If you have middle level than 0.4 liter would be ok, to top it up to max level.
5. If you get overfilled warning or the oil level show overfilled status than raise the car again and drain 0.2-0.4 liter. Plug it up and check the level again.
Thanks for having me go get a 34mm socket when it was actually a 32mm.
Thanks for not reading the video description, which explains that it’s 32mm…and even provides a link. :)
Due to the low torque, a 34mm still works.
this is much easier with ramps.
I agree that ramps give much better accessibility. I always got nervous driving up on them with no spotter - seemed like I was going to launch off the end! I got QuickJacks a couple of years ago and really like them, but they do take longer to setup.
or you can just get a mightyvac and save sooooo much time
For this car? Nahh
Can you replace the Oil Filter which is required at every oil change with a Mighty Vac ?
Dam 10k oil change am I the only one that still does 3k
Wow! Yeah, don't listen to what the oil companies advertise. Go by manufacturer recommendations.
demchevyboyz i do mine at 3500 filter every 7000 and i use a swaben extractor super easy .. 👍☺
I trust the system in the new cars generally. If you tune the car to make a lot more power then most tuners, including the popular APR chip for this car, recommend 3K oil changes and even plugs once a year. The idea is that fluids and plugs are cheap insurance.
Depends how hard you run your car. I you use the "high performance" of the 4T all the time I would change it sooner than 10K miles. I use my A8 4T as a highway cruiser at 65 MPH [ Old guy use] and over cautiously change it at 5K . Also I you live in Hot climates it is more important to check the oil for breakdown since Turbo life will be affected at very high temps- [ 125 degrees in Yuma anyone?]
I change mines every 13k
I do have friend of mine who’s a mechanic, he can do that for me for $50 labor
I used to have a brand new A4 and Q5 and both had high oil consumption. I switched to Amsoil and this was the only oil I have found to reduce it the most. I highly recommend this: www.searchforparts.com/oil-change/audi-2013-s6-4.0l-ceuc-turbo
The most common method of reducing oil consumption is to use a higher viscosity oil. Lower viscosity oils (such as the 0W-40 recommended) flow more freely, which in general is a good thing, but also is more prone to higher oil consumption. If switching to a higher viscosity, make sure that it's still within the range recommended by the manufacturer. Also, if you live in an area with seasonal weather, higher viscosity can be used in the summer and lower viscosity in the winter (due to cold starts in the winter requiring lower viscosity oil for better flow prior to warm-up.)
Normally that's how I recommend that you deal with it. But you cannot do that as easily with an Audi. You have to use the oils that are compatible for that engine. You cannot use a 50 weight in an Audi because it has certain specs. You can only do that with Asian and Domestic cars. My Audi's were brand new when they were consuming oil. Castrol is the worst to use. It's only because Audi and BMW signed contracts to get the oil cheap. It's garbage oil.
Steel toe shoes....lmao
843evorider If you’ve reviewed as many industrial accident reports as I have, you wouldn’t be laughing. Steel toe shoes can prevent or minimize some seriously bad injuries. www.documentingreality.com/forum/f149/19-mangled-crushed-feet-81951/
He literally didn't even show filling up the car with new oil, how the fuck do you leave that part out in a video literally about changing your oil???
Watching someone pour oil is not very exciting, so I cut that out. I also didn’t show the new oil filter going back in. There’s nothing special or Audi-proprietary about either step, but I guess I could have at least said a few words about refilling. But there’s no way to redo it now!
This guy is the safest at home Car mechanic in the world. Kudos