So glad to see Monday mod tips. This one is so simple it makes me want to put this setup in every flywheeler I own. With the addition of a knob which can twist that speed setting from the outside. Select fire core ...
Update: Pusher works great, though the FTW cage needed a lot of shell work to fit... and the selector switch I setup needs to be switched out for something that is more akin to that on an M4
Duuuuuuuuude, I haven't even watched this year but I am so thankful you put this out. I am actually planning a build that might really benefit from a solenoid and didn't even know where to begin. Thank you!
Oof... If i know this trick with the solenoid and blinker relay... would have made some projects a whole lot easier! Thanks for informing the hobby with this amazing video!
I once thought about achieving this same setup with a far more complicated system by using a motor, a wheel, and a switch rather than the car blinker relay. This is far better and less drain on a battery
I gave the full auto setup a try! The problem I'n encountering is that the blinker relays keep dying. They work fine under most conditions, but the moment there's a dart jam or if there's a mag that's not properly seated, they die. And I'm not spending minutes holding down the trigger while the solenoid slowly cooks itself (which would be silly); the moment a dart doesn't feed properly, I'm off the trigger and putting it into safe- but that's still not fast enough. I suspect that the solenoid is drawing too much current under even the briefest stall conditions and frying the blinker relay (makes sense, as the ones I have access to are rated for 40-some watts, and 8A stall current @ 12V is close to 100W). I have this set up in a Nerf Halo MA40 blaster (it's gorgeous!). I suspect that, it being a bullpup, the extra friction and force required to move the pusher is exascarbating the current-draw problem (despite copiuos amounts of lube). In addition, I have a rubber bumper that acts at the forward stroke to muffle the clanging, and that may be providing some added resistance. All these factors indicate to me that the blinker relay system may be just on the knife's edge of function, and thus is a bit finnicky and picky on the exact pusher geometry and setup. That's not to say that the system doesn't work: just perhaps there needs to be careful thogth put into the design in order to minimize resistance. Of course, this is just the experience of one person, which is far from a definitive universal truth. I'm just wondering if you or anyone else has had the same experience (lots of trial and error and blown relays), or if it works right the first time, every time and I'm doing something silly (which happens with alarming regularity). Thus far, I am treating the relays as a semi-disposable item that can be accessed and replaced via the battery housing without needing to disassemble the blaster (like a fuse). I will try to put the blinker relay upstream of a solid-state switch-relay module, but that's a project for next month. I can let you know how that goes, if you are interested.
Thanks for telling me how to make a full auto solenoid because i wanted to put a solenoid into my modded infinus and didn‘t know how to make it full auto
For some reason, whenever I switch the selector switch to full auto mode, it still functions like semi auto. I am running the same relay you are with an OOD neutron solenoid and MTB Rhino motors on 3s lipo. I copied your circuit down to every wire. Do you have any suggestions as to how to fix it?
I've had a Solenoid Rayven build for years but never could figure out how to make it full auto without an arduiono in there. Excellent video and I'm certain its going to help a lot of people.
Finally. I've been looking for a video like this for ages. I got a mk3 and it crapped out within the day and since I made an aesthetic modification prime time couldn't fix it, so I wanted to make it solenoid driven. Too bad this came after I stopped messing around with nerf
Was just in the middle of a go burr build thank you! Found the small FJ-Z05 generic solenoid for my next builds rather than the expensive brand label ones, going to give those a try.
This makes wiring a solenoid so amazing simple to understand. Now i want to make all my flywheelers selectfire solenoid pushers. Grate work Sir...... One question; can you get relays that'll give you fater rate of fire??
When you bypass the relay with the yellow wire, is that wire connected to the same terminal on the firing switch as the red wire, or is it just in contact with the red wire itself?
It is on the same terminal. But either will work. The key is that is needs to be the output of the trigger switch. Both the relay and the bypass are connected to the trigger switch output.
Thank you VERY much for such a straight-forward guide on something that is seemingly very daunting when you have no knowledge about such things. I do have one request, and that is that you find some way to share diagrams, and maybe parts lists too, that doesn't involve Facebook. I deleted my Facebook and I refuse to subject my mental health to that dumpster fire of a website ever again. Something like a Google doc in read-only mode or something like that, perhaps?
Sadly not- it might be possible to modify the circuit inside the relay to make it go faster, but every design I've looked at is limited to about ~4 flashes per second max unmodified. You would have to either go the Arduino route, or do what I did and use a little pulse generator circuit + mosfet setup. Do a search for 'full auto solenoid wiring' on google and you'll find everything you need in terms of parts and wiring diagrams.
thats about as fast as they go. to make it faster, replace the 25v 100uf capacitor on the relay with a 25v 47uf capacitor. do note, that you will need to use a Flywheel the world solenoid, or a neutron solenoid, as the standard 35mm solenoids cant cycle fast enough with this modification. I've built a few blasters with this system, and ended up modifying the one that took the 35mm solenoid to a FTW solenoid because of cycling issues.
@@pintotheevil thank you for this info, although I do want to know if you know if a neutron solenoid can be mounted to a 3d printed bracket meant for a FTW solenoid. I am asking because I don’t want to deal with the hassle of sourcing a FTW solenoid. Again, thank you for the wiring info, I will likely use it.
Hello Captain, I watched this video to help me build a select fire stryfe. One question, where would I run the positive and negative wires for the flywheel motors?
Same as any flywheel blaster. Positive goes tue the rev switch and then the motors. Negative goes straight to the motors. The flywheel circuit is mostly independent of the firing circuit.
I put this circuit into Winter's Breath (which is a built on a Stryfe) in my most recent Diagnostic and Repair videos. So search either for "Winter's Breath" or "Diagnostics and Repair"
Thanks for this! I wanted to rip out and stomp my shitty Worker full auto pusher kit i have in my Doninator for awhile now. Now I can without fancy Nerduino stuff! Ha!
I am wanted to build similar system with mini 5v solenoid and 555 timer battery based .(My only concern on this application solenoid working non stop 50-60 stoke a minute (do you think it can do that without breaking?)
That's...not how it works. LiPo/motor combinations don't really affect fps (unless you under/over volt the motors...which you shouldn't) What really affects fps is motor/cage/wheel combinations. Unfortunately, there are simply too many possible combinations (literally tens of thousands of combinations) to make a video on it.
Hi I wired my setup for select fire, but I’m having a problem when it’s flipped to semi the pusher stays forward until I turn it off and the full auto works great. Got any tips why this is ?
@rickhutchison5923 well, without knowing what you are using as a controller or how you have it wired, I can only assume you wired it in such a way that power is going directly to your solenoid rather than passing thru your trigger switch first. So nothing is breaking the circuit.
Yep, went back to the wiring, and found the positive of the flywheels was going right to the pusher. Thanks again for the tip and video really helped my build. 👍
I'm just wondering, why are the solenoids so large. I mean it's not much force it has to push? There's probably a good reason but just wanna hear it :)
You might be surprised. It does have to overcome the tension of the mag follower spring and it has no mechanical advantage. A smaller one would be possible if a lever of some sort was used but that would result in a much shorter throw. Now if you could get gears involved that would be a different matter. But using the solenoid directly is very inefficient so a large one is needed.
@@CaptainXavier thx for answer, but also I had another question, why use solenoids instead of those metal gearbox solutions for full auto? I have seen both solutions but dunno wich one to use.
Brushless motors require a micro controller. An Arduino or Narfduino. There is no "simple" brushless build. And I am not well versed enough to be confident it teaching how they work.
@@CaptainXavier I didnt notice this. Thank YT's notif system. But basically, I want to learn how a Rapidstrike/Turbine pusher works, so I can make a reverse engineered version if that makes sense
So glad to see Monday mod tips. This one is so simple it makes me want to put this setup in every flywheeler I own. With the addition of a knob which can twist that speed setting from the outside.
Select fire core ...
This is waaaaay simpler than I imagined it being. Gives me ideas
LOVE THISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
This is fantastic timing, im trying to sort out doing a solenoid pusher for a full auto retaliator sleeper.
Update:
Pusher works great, though the FTW cage needed a lot of shell work to fit... and the selector switch I setup needs to be switched out for something that is more akin to that on an M4
@@GeneralFlaggI’m also trying to build an ftw solenoid, what solenoid did you end up using?
@@frosttgasian1168 settled on an OOD Neutron with the high ROF spring. It's running on a 3s rn.
@@GeneralFlagg did it fit the cage directly? Or did you have to modify the files
@frosttgasian1168 I had no clearance issues with the solenoid, however I did have to Dremel out the retaliator shell to fit the cage.
Duuuuuuuuude, I haven't even watched this year but I am so thankful you put this out. I am actually planning a build that might really benefit from a solenoid and didn't even know where to begin. Thank you!
Finally, somebody who actually knows something and is able to teach it to others. A rare and valuable gift!
Thank you and subscribed.
Wow, I’m speechless . I have no words except AWESOME. Captain genius
You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar... I don't care what everyone says about you, you're alright by me.
Very helpful. I have been hesitant to do a solenoid build but this has made me confident enough to do it. Thanks!
Oof... If i know this trick with the solenoid and blinker relay... would have made some projects a whole lot easier!
Thanks for informing the hobby with this amazing video!
This is such a great and simple lesson, really easy to understand and straightforward, thank you!
blinker reaay is smart thinking to whoever came up with using it
Right!? So simple yet so functional!
Dude you are a life saver! I'm planning to make my nerf halo ma40 have a full auto mode and this is the most simple guide i have seen!
Nice one cap. I've been needing this for a good second now
I once thought about achieving this same setup with a far more complicated system by using a motor, a wheel, and a switch rather than the car blinker relay. This is far better and less drain on a battery
Thank you so much! I've been modding for a few years now, but solenoids have always mystified me. This is the perfect introduction/beginners' guide!
I gave the full auto setup a try! The problem I'n encountering is that the blinker relays keep dying. They work fine under most conditions, but the moment there's a dart jam or if there's a mag that's not properly seated, they die. And I'm not spending minutes holding down the trigger while the solenoid slowly cooks itself (which would be silly); the moment a dart doesn't feed properly, I'm off the trigger and putting it into safe- but that's still not fast enough.
I suspect that the solenoid is drawing too much current under even the briefest stall conditions and frying the blinker relay (makes sense, as the ones I have access to are rated for 40-some watts, and 8A stall current @ 12V is close to 100W).
I have this set up in a Nerf Halo MA40 blaster (it's gorgeous!). I suspect that, it being a bullpup, the extra friction and force required to move the pusher is exascarbating the current-draw problem (despite copiuos amounts of lube). In addition, I have a rubber bumper that acts at the forward stroke to muffle the clanging, and that may be providing some added resistance. All these factors indicate to me that the blinker relay system may be just on the knife's edge of function, and thus is a bit finnicky and picky on the exact pusher geometry and setup. That's not to say that the system doesn't work: just perhaps there needs to be careful thogth put into the design in order to minimize resistance.
Of course, this is just the experience of one person, which is far from a definitive universal truth. I'm just wondering if you or anyone else has had the same experience (lots of trial and error and blown relays), or if it works right the first time, every time and I'm doing something silly (which happens with alarming regularity).
Thus far, I am treating the relays as a semi-disposable item that can be accessed and replaced via the battery housing without needing to disassemble the blaster (like a fuse). I will try to put the blinker relay upstream of a solid-state switch-relay module, but that's a project for next month. I can let you know how that goes, if you are interested.
Thanks for telling me how to make a full auto solenoid because i wanted to put a solenoid into my modded infinus and didn‘t know how to make it full auto
For some reason, whenever I switch the selector switch to full auto mode, it still functions like semi auto. I am running the same relay you are with an OOD neutron solenoid and MTB Rhino motors on 3s lipo. I copied your circuit down to every wire. Do you have any suggestions as to how to fix it?
Oh heck yeah! Thank you for making this video. I can't wait to pick up some parts and get to work.
I've had a Solenoid Rayven build for years but never could figure out how to make it full auto without an arduiono in there. Excellent video and I'm certain its going to help a lot of people.
Do you remember what solenoid you used? I've been trying to find one that works for a rayven and haven't had any luck.
It's finally making some sense. Thank you.
Finally. Thank you. You're the best.
Finally. I've been looking for a video like this for ages. I got a mk3 and it crapped out within the day and since I made an aesthetic modification prime time couldn't fix it, so I wanted to make it solenoid driven. Too bad this came after I stopped messing around with nerf
very well explained, the circuits are easy, I simply loved the video. Thanks captain Xavier
Was just in the middle of a go burr build thank you! Found the small FJ-Z05 generic solenoid for my next builds rather than the expensive brand label ones, going to give those a try.
How did the solenoid work out?
Thank you Captain! Bangarang!
This makes wiring a solenoid so amazing simple to understand. Now i want to make all my flywheelers selectfire solenoid pushers. Grate work Sir...... One question; can you get relays that'll give you fater rate of fire??
Check the comments. Apparently, there is a way by replacing one of the capacitors on the relay.
The blinker relay is pure genius. I've been working on a stryfe. This may have to go in the build. Q'plah
I love this type of content
Really like this video. Very informative
It’s back again!!
Thanks! So surprisingly simple.
When you bypass the relay with the yellow wire, is that wire connected to the same terminal on the firing switch as the red wire, or is it just in contact with the red wire itself?
It is on the same terminal. But either will work. The key is that is needs to be the output of the trigger switch. Both the relay and the bypass are connected to the trigger switch output.
@ ok thank you!
Thank you VERY much for such a straight-forward guide on something that is seemingly very daunting when you have no knowledge about such things. I do have one request, and that is that you find some way to share diagrams, and maybe parts lists too, that doesn't involve Facebook. I deleted my Facebook and I refuse to subject my mental health to that dumpster fire of a website ever again. Something like a Google doc in read-only mode or something like that, perhaps?
Very helpful very informative thank you.
Does anyone know of a blinker timer that can go even faster? The one in the vid is good, but I would like a bit more speed.
Sadly not- it might be possible to modify the circuit inside the relay to make it go faster, but every design I've looked at is limited to about ~4 flashes per second max unmodified. You would have to either go the Arduino route, or do what I did and use a little pulse generator circuit + mosfet setup. Do a search for 'full auto solenoid wiring' on google and you'll find everything you need in terms of parts and wiring diagrams.
thats about as fast as they go. to make it faster, replace the 25v 100uf capacitor on the relay with a 25v 47uf capacitor. do note, that you will need to use a Flywheel the world solenoid, or a neutron solenoid, as the standard 35mm solenoids cant cycle fast enough with this modification. I've built a few blasters with this system, and ended up modifying the one that took the 35mm solenoid to a FTW solenoid because of cycling issues.
@@pintotheevil thank you for this info, although I do want to know if you know if a neutron solenoid can be mounted to a 3d printed bracket meant for a FTW solenoid. I am asking because I don’t want to deal with the hassle of sourcing a FTW solenoid. Again, thank you for the wiring info, I will likely use it.
@@KarlDRG they are different sizes. But they will both work well.
Hello Captain, I watched this video to help me build a select fire stryfe. One question, where would I run the positive and negative wires for the flywheel motors?
Same as any flywheel blaster. Positive goes tue the rev switch and then the motors. Negative goes straight to the motors. The flywheel circuit is mostly independent of the firing circuit.
LFG, thank you 💪🏽
A part 2 where you show how you would install this into a blaster, probably a stryfe, would be helpful and cool.
...I have already done that video. That video is what prompted people to ask me to do this video...
@@CaptainXavier are you able to link that video as I can't seem to find it as really want to put this into my stryfe or my raven.
@@CaptainXaviercircular motion of that UA-cam grind
@@CaptainXavier to be honest, it's been a while for me. I must have missed that video. What's it called so I can go look for it in your channel?
I put this circuit into Winter's Breath (which is a built on a Stryfe) in my most recent Diagnostic and Repair videos. So search either for "Winter's Breath" or "Diagnostics and Repair"
Thanks for this! I wanted to rip out and stomp my shitty Worker full auto pusher kit i have in my Doninator for awhile now. Now I can without fancy Nerduino stuff! Ha!
I am wanted to build similar system with mini 5v solenoid and 555 timer battery based .(My only concern on this application solenoid working non stop 50-60 stoke a minute (do you think it can do that without breaking?)
This is super helpful for us n00bs! Thank you!
Love this video. What are those switches called? I can't seem to find them anywhere. Which solenoid would you recommend?
Everything you need can be acquired from OutofDarts.com. They have the switches (omron switchs) and the bedt solenoids.
Have you tried the blinker relay with a motor and gear pusher like a Rapidstrike?
I have not, no. I have no idea what that would do, but I don't think it would work.
Thanks for the video do you have a video to explain what motors work best with specific lipo batteries for a specific fps
That's...not how it works. LiPo/motor combinations don't really affect fps (unless you under/over volt the motors...which you shouldn't) What really affects fps is motor/cage/wheel combinations. Unfortunately, there are simply too many possible combinations (literally tens of thousands of combinations) to make a video on it.
@CaptainXavier oké thanks
you can also use a switch above the solenoid 😊
Indeed. And I may try that next. An "interrupter" switch circuit.
@@CaptainXavier there is something on printables that will basically turn any hyperdrive select fire
Hi I wired my setup for select fire, but I’m having a problem when it’s flipped to semi the pusher stays forward until I turn it off and the full auto works great. Got any tips why this is ?
@rickhutchison5923 well, without knowing what you are using as a controller or how you have it wired, I can only assume you wired it in such a way that power is going directly to your solenoid rather than passing thru your trigger switch first. So nothing is breaking the circuit.
Yep, went back to the wiring, and found the positive of the flywheels was going right to the pusher. Thanks again for the tip and video really helped my build. 👍
I have some fun ideas for this with a 555 timer
how would you get burst fire is that when you start with a green board
That is one way, yes. Using an arduino to count the shots or control the timing. There are also mechanical options.
is the captain building an nsp-1k? this is the only blaster i know of that uses this exact setup
The what? My Bolt Pistol and Winter's Breath uses this setup too.
I'm just wondering, why are the solenoids so large. I mean it's not much force it has to push? There's probably a good reason but just wanna hear it :)
You might be surprised. It does have to overcome the tension of the mag follower spring and it has no mechanical advantage. A smaller one would be possible if a lever of some sort was used but that would result in a much shorter throw. Now if you could get gears involved that would be a different matter. But using the solenoid directly is very inefficient so a large one is needed.
@@CaptainXavier thx for answer, but also I had another question, why use solenoids instead of those metal gearbox solutions for full auto? I have seen both solutions but dunno wich one to use.
@MrDrake333 Preference. Simpler wiring. Recoil is neat. Easier to make selectfire. Fewer moving parts.
@@CaptainXavier thx 😊
@@CaptainXavier How much force (N) do you use for solenoide?
could you do a tip and tricks vid for magazines and clips like repairs and maintenance
It is on the list.
Do u have links to solenoids or websites to order from?
Outofdarts.com
What about a video like this on a brushless build. Like a brushless stryfe
Brushless motors require a micro controller. An Arduino or Narfduino. There is no "simple" brushless build. And I am not well versed enough to be confident it teaching how they work.
Feeding the algorithm
can you use with 23a 12v battery?...like normal cylinder battery for my project
@muhdadam6799 worth a try.
Now do a Basic video for a Rapidstrike style pusher. I wanted to use the Elite 2.0 Turbine's pusher
What is it you need to know? The wiring? I've already done that video.
@@CaptainXavier I didnt notice this. Thank YT's notif system. But basically, I want to learn how a Rapidstrike/Turbine pusher works, so I can make a reverse engineered version if that makes sense
could you please link where you bought that solenoid? would very much appreciate it!
@abshaigavvala9906 sadly, no. As I have no idea where I got it. I bought it about 7 years ago.