Brian, for somebody that keeps saying, don't over think it, it's just paint. You certainly do put a lot of thought into painting, which is a good thing. How can you keep improving without thinking. I enjoy your videos. Thank you for sharing with us.
Sometimes when we are in the thick of things while painting we are trying to over analyze. At paint society I do the thinking for you so you don’t have to! 😇
So glad you said the customer was only paying for a blend panel. So many keyboard warriors out there knocking people about not doing more work than what they are getting paid for. Turned out awesome as usual and im painting my Del Sol tomorrow black so it was very helpful.
As a Dupont paint rep told me yrs ago--If you're going to have an issue with a paint job, It's going to be black! It shows everything and when you get it outside the surface will absorb heat more than any other color with the potential of a chemical reaction. Nice work Mr. P. Society!
The way I look at it, the paint work showcases your repair work, prep work, attention to detail (how does that go, the devil is in the details), and talent. And, the most important part, whether or not you strive for continuous improvement, and an endless journey for knowledge, or if you embrace "satisfaction", the end of your journey. I think black provides the ultimate learning opportunity, there's nothing that teaches like mistakes. Get black right, and you can most-likely get anything right.
Not just sweet production technique, so much insight for home garage guys as well. Brother, I literally thought paint was magic until I started watching your work. TY for sharing this digestible high-quality knowledge.
super tip about tacking the plastic... if you think about it, the plastic almost always has some static charge, and holds onto more duct that we think...thanks!! I was surprised at how much 'fog'/overspray seems to drift away...is this a big problem for a 'hobbyist' painter...I have HPLV guns...
nice video i hope any newbies can grasp how important it is to have your base lay on flat i had many paint jobs shrink up on rocky looking base and never understood why it was dulling until i understood years ago that it was my fault for not putting down the base slick like you do
Just dropped off my black 01 Honda Prelude yesterday to got the whole front end repainted. Rock chips on bumper and hood and clear coat fade on both fenders. They’re going to remove mirrors and window trim to blend the doors into the rest,hopefully it works good. Hello from British Columbia
Thanks for highlighting how important it is to get paint viscosity, air pressure & reducers properly set up as part of the spray process. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the content. I have a long time client and I was thinking about asking him to help with my classic car projects but I can see watching your content how he doesn’t prep correctly and he has his helpers buffing and buffing 15:12 to clean up the cut corners of proper prep.
I love your videos! I’m stuck in prep and paint sometimes but I’m 23 and want to paint! My dads a painter but different field of painting. Your videos help me a lot and when I use the info I learn from you it impresses the lead painter who’s been doing collision work for 28 years. Thank you. Would love a review on the sata 5500 rp it’s what is used at my job.
Sata 5500 rp 1.3 is what I use at work as well. Great for waterborne base paint as well as clear 👍 but if you're a good painter, technically you can spray a good clean paint job with any quality gun
Absolutely amazing job as always Brian! Thank you for taking the time to teach us all the tips & tricks that could result in very time-consuming & costly errors!
Depends on the clear at the end. We use Sikkens PC. I was recommended a 10 m flash first coat, bake immediately after second coat. It's been working great that way.
I haven't done any serious painting since the late 80s early 90s, so your channel is an awesome refresher course, and hopefully do some paint work on my C5 Corvette, thanks
@Brian you are so talented. That black repair was flawless! From the body work to the paint prep and paint! I would love to see a playlist of how-to's from the equipment selection (buying), set up, material selection. How to fix a dent. How to fill, with what filler. What primer, sealer. What equipment for spaying primer/paint/clear. Setting up the sprayers. Coat thickness on each, etc., etc. Sometimes, you will make a general comment that every painter should know, that I didn't know. Don't get me wrong, your videos are great and cover a lot of information, it is just that some of us need the basics.
Hi Brian, I love your videos. I own a small body shop in Tampa and we mostly do insurance work. I was having trouble with the high metallic colors but after watching some of your videos I am now much better with the metallics along with implementing 15:12 other tricks on f the trade I have seen on your videos. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything so well. Best channel for auto paint on UA-cam!! Btw, which clear did you use on the black Acura? Which Tamco clear do you use. Thank you once again.
I have to thank you for all the tips on painting, I painted my second car with your tips, it was good for being in a garage at home, here are some pictures Thank you Patrik in Norway
X slow reducer is definitely a big key in geting a flat finish. I say alot on my page as well that if your basecoat aint smooth, anything you put ontop will not be ither
Love the metal in that black. Doing some repair work on a VW soon that has a 2T2T paint code, it looks very similar to this colour, but maybe a slightly smaller flake.
That's the perfect way to apply basecoat I would of used the tack rag in between coats you see people wacking on big heavy coats I don't know how they get away with it
I bought a anti static gun it uses a transformer & compressed air & it does an amazing job stopping dust etc being attracted to the panels by static electricity i use it after i tac rag the panels , it cost $ 185 at the time of purchase ,
Hi from Reunion Island. Always magic your videos, and even more the results. I have learned a lot since watching. My weak point to get started will always be my little 200l/3hp compressor to make my DV1 clearcoat and basecoat work properly
dude loved the channel it seems like your going the same as gunman. thats why i have been watching kandyman but he doesnt go into detail i dont need it but i can always learn more 20 years in the game
another great video, If you go heavy on your first coat and get the coverage just allow more flash time while you're doing other things multitasking. 👍
Thanks for your company that let you do this video's to show us this tips and tricks thanks Brain like always smashing my like botton Texas style yahoooooooooo katakaboooooooooooooooom
Is it possible to just reclear a car without clear coat burn? As long as it's done up and over on each panel? My concern is the paint underneath might be too thick and cause bubbling or cracking from the heat and thickness, ruining the new clear coat or discoloring the paint. How should one approach this if only the clear coat is getting hazy on the factory finish (especially bumpers and painted plastics like the hood scoop) but the base is still looking good. Thanks B
Anytime i am doing a gloss black weather its jet black, Mitsubishi Labordor black (with the real fine blue metallics in it) or Toyota Tripple Black, i always spray the base, then i let it sit overnight, come in the next day and lightly block sand with 600grit, tac it off, then hit it with another 2 coats of base then go right into clear. Thats just what works for me personally. Even with Tamco Smoke Metallic or Urechem Tihation Black Pearl (two of my favorites) just makes me feel as if i get a much cleaner finish
Looks great! Had a question for you. I picked up a ford raptor in tuxedo black. Hood needs repainted as well as a door so I’ll be blending. Rest of the paint looks fine. No deep scratches but the clear looks old as it’s 10 years old. My question is would I get food adhesion if I say 400/600 sanded the whole truck to clear the whole truck in the clear stage? I know buffing is the usual answer. But with money and time not being a factor as it’s my time and I’d like the best result at the end I was just curious and brainstorming ideas. Thanks Brian!
What clear coat was that with the 1.3 on the Sagola? Curious to learn about tip size vs thickness of clear coat. Some say larger tip like 1.4 for thicker material, and others say smaller tip size like a 1.2 and higher pressure to break the thick clear up. I can lay lower solids clears with no peel, but struggle with thicker clears.
What do you use to degrease and clean just prior to spraying? I tried lacquer thinner, but it affected the primer, as in removing some. Also what towel? I tried the paper blue shop towel with some rubbing alcohol but they kept depositing lint, which I got off with a low tack rag, but it was a pain.
Have you used waterborne basecoat? It’s usually wet on wet application with the second being an effect coat. Also do you normally apply clear less than 40 percent overlap because you seem to be a fast painter?
Really cool u use Sikkens so I been painting for 30 years the energy select is a bad ass clear I use slow don’t like the fast using slow in the base coat makes it easier to blend metallic colors so what do you do to blend pastel colors
how do you find out how much reducer to use normally? My reducer doesn't say how much to use, so I normally just use "1" part... if the paint mixes 4:1 I'll mix it 4:1:1
Ok how do you put that much on without it running?? Just sayn I know you can but I always get runs and try to fix and end up repraying.single stage metalic,prep up to 400 or 600?? and I clear over that
My local shop loves to scratch the fresh clear coat. I think it’s to match the rest of the car I told them there is no need to the last time and they still did it. They told me the clear was still a little soft so to bring it in in a month and they would buff it. Shouldn’t need it right?
Brian, is it true that in the early 90s Honda OEM paint was single-stage? Someone told me this but I don't think he is correct. Hope you can clarify. thank you!
Hey Brian I’m doing a complete paint change on a truck, from dark blue to black. I am doing the engine bay and door jams. Is it the same process of sanding to 220 to remove clear, unless the clear is failing and get to base. Then primer with 2K up to 600? Or should I sand the primer to 800 before base and clear?
Great video as usual. But what about 10:12. It's a shame to do all this work and find there's a small dent in the crease of the panel. What would be your solution at this time? How about paintless dent repair. I live in the UK and the guys charge about £100 per panel for a repair.
Hey really enjoying your videos! Im looking at doing some surface rust repair on my silver metallic subaru. I just cant decide if i wanna go with cans or a gun! Whats the biggest factor when deciding ? Is it just not having all the equipment that makes people use the spray cans at home more ? Or is the sray gun alot harder? Thank you and keep up the great work 👍
Brian, for somebody that keeps saying, don't over think it, it's just paint. You certainly do put a lot of thought into painting, which is a good thing. How can you keep improving without thinking. I enjoy your videos. Thank you for sharing with us.
Sometimes when we are in the thick of things while painting we are trying to over analyze. At paint society I do the thinking for you so you don’t have to! 😇
10:00 WOW that looks freaking amazing!
So glad you said the customer was only paying for a blend panel. So many keyboard warriors out there knocking people about not doing more work than what they are getting paid for. Turned out awesome as usual and im painting my Del Sol tomorrow black so it was very helpful.
As a Dupont paint rep told me yrs ago--If you're going to have an issue with a paint job, It's going to be black! It shows everything and when you get it outside the surface will absorb heat more than any other color with the potential of a chemical reaction. Nice work Mr. P. Society!
Love and hate relation with black paint hah. Thanks !
Mr P. Society? I dig it!
Learned that the hard way 🥹
.... and red is the hardest to match and quickest to fade. I think this is why most fleet vehicles are white, def easiest color for a vehicle
The way I look at it, the paint work showcases your repair work, prep work, attention to detail (how does that go, the devil is in the details), and talent. And, the most important part, whether or not you strive for continuous improvement, and an endless journey for knowledge, or if you embrace "satisfaction", the end of your journey. I think black provides the ultimate learning opportunity, there's nothing that teaches like mistakes. Get black right, and you can most-likely get anything right.
Not just sweet production technique, so much insight for home garage guys as well.
Brother, I literally thought paint was magic until I started watching your work. TY for sharing this digestible high-quality knowledge.
I’m glad you can carry some of these tips into the garage at home. Thanks so much for the comment
super tip about tacking the plastic... if you think about it, the plastic almost always has some static charge, and holds onto more duct that we think...thanks!!
I was surprised at how much 'fog'/overspray seems to drift away...is this a big problem for a 'hobbyist' painter...I have HPLV guns...
You got that distance and fluid motion locked in!
Watching these paint videos is very therapeutic… 😊
Hands down one of the best painter channels 🙌🏻
Agree!
Wow, thank you!
I always learn something new every time I watch this channel. Sheez full of knowledge.
Thank you!
nice video i hope any newbies can grasp how important it is to have your base lay on flat i had many paint jobs shrink up on rocky looking base and never understood why it was dulling until i understood years ago that it was my fault for not putting down the base slick like you do
Just dropped off my black 01 Honda Prelude yesterday to got the whole front end repainted. Rock chips on bumper and hood and clear coat fade on both fenders. They’re going to remove mirrors and window trim to blend the doors into the rest,hopefully it works good. Hello from British Columbia
Brian u a maestro I'm a cancer patient and learning a lot from u awesome pity we can't get those good results gun only the cheaper hopeless ones
Your painting videos are the absolute best on UA-cam
Thank you so much 😀
Thanks for highlighting how important it is to get paint viscosity, air pressure & reducers properly set up as part of the spray process. Thanks for sharing.
I always put masking paper around the edges of plastic , cus sometimes the clear flakes off when air hits the plastic so I put paper to absorb it
It should never because one side of the plastic is treated
One way it shows how good you actually are, that looked effortless. Beautiful finish.
Thanks for the content. I have a long time client and I was thinking about asking him to help with my classic car projects but I can see watching your content how he doesn’t prep correctly and he has his helpers buffing and buffing 15:12 to clean up the cut corners of proper prep.
I like clearing my blend panel last, because that stuff will slide right off those smooth surfaces without paint on them!
Ive been painting cars for close to 15 years. I dont use a cup gun, I use a titan 440 airless with a graco contractor gun. No buffing necessary.
I love your videos! I’m stuck in prep and paint sometimes but I’m 23 and want to paint! My dads a painter but different field of painting. Your videos help me a lot and when I use the info I learn from you it impresses the lead painter who’s been doing collision work for 28 years. Thank you. Would love a review on the sata 5500 rp it’s what is used at my job.
Glad to hear your making progress! I don’t use satas as they don’t fit my spraying style but they are still Great guns.
Sata 5500 rp 1.3 is what I use at work as well. Great for waterborne base paint as well as clear 👍 but if you're a good painter, technically you can spray a good clean paint job with any quality gun
@@PaintSociety what would be your favorite gun? I just got a sata nr95 for cheap to start doing projects at home.
@@WerdularMotion we use a 1.4 I for my work and spray solvent based onto aluminum boats.
Dude I'm in the same boat as you, I just turned 23 and my dad is a painter too. I've been learning steadily but man its been great so far.
Absolutely amazing job as always Brian! Thank you for taking the time to teach us all the tips & tricks that could result in very time-consuming & costly errors!
Very nice job. That 10% extra reducer makes a really big difference with black paint! Thanks for showing that to us!
Depends on the clear at the end. We use Sikkens PC. I was recommended a 10 m flash first coat, bake immediately after second coat. It's been working great that way.
I haven't done any serious painting since the late 80s early 90s, so your channel is an awesome refresher course, and hopefully do some paint work on my C5 Corvette, thanks
I have a C5 on the channel. I’m getting working back on it soon
@@PaintSociety Awesome👍
@Brian you are so talented. That black repair was flawless! From the body work to the paint prep and paint! I would love to see a playlist of how-to's from the equipment selection (buying), set up, material selection. How to fix a dent. How to fill, with what filler. What primer, sealer. What equipment for spaying primer/paint/clear. Setting up the sprayers. Coat thickness on each, etc., etc. Sometimes, you will make a general comment that every painter should know, that I didn't know. Don't get me wrong, your videos are great and cover a lot of information, it is just that some of us need the basics.
Oh my God look at that Sagola do its thing ! 😍
as with all worlds of art...prep has is and will always be the key to success. truth. keep up the amazing paint lessons
400, 600, 800 wet sand! is what I did, and finally had a paint job come out clear, clean, smooth.
You are the most Amazing person I ever Know ...... GOD BLESS YOU and your Family
great job!! That metallic shows amazing in the daylight............
Hi Brian, I love your videos. I own a small body shop in Tampa and we mostly do insurance work. I was having trouble with the high metallic colors but after watching some of your videos I am now much better with the metallics along with implementing 15:12 other tricks on f the trade I have seen on your videos. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything so well. Best channel for auto paint on UA-cam!! Btw, which clear did you use on the black Acura? Which Tamco clear do you use. Thank you once again.
Lesonal universal clear. Thanks so much for your kind words!
I have to thank you for all the tips on painting, I painted my second car with your tips, it was good for being in a garage at home, here are some pictures Thank you Patrik in Norway
That is awesome!
I paint guitars and find your channel to be invaluable. Thanks for sharing tips like this :)
Amazing talent, amazing results. I greatly enjoy your videos. Thank you 👍
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP YOU INSPIRED ME TO DO MY OWN PAINTING LOL I DONT EVEN HAVE A BOOTH AND THEY TURN OUT DECENT!
Excellent job, Brian. Do you have a video on refinishing used front bumper with many tiny chips???
X slow reducer is definitely a big key in geting a flat finish. I say alot on my page as well that if your basecoat aint smooth, anything you put ontop will not be ither
Brain killing it again! Love my Sagola's! Great guns for sure!
How do you chose when to blend one panel with the neighboring panel? And when is it ok to paint a panel alone ?
Brian U have really helped us improve a lot thank you so much but I want to request that you teach us how to mix paint with the ratios
Excellent work, I don’t know how you didn’t get a run. Do you recommend using slow reducer even in cold weather.
Love the metal in that black. Doing some repair work on a VW soon that has a 2T2T paint code, it looks very similar to this colour, but maybe a slightly smaller flake.
That's the perfect way to apply basecoat I would of used the tack rag in between coats you see people wacking on big heavy coats I don't know how they get away with it
I bought a anti static gun it uses a transformer & compressed air & it does an amazing job stopping dust etc being attracted to the panels by static electricity i use it after i tac rag the panels , it cost $ 185 at the time of purchase ,
A anti static gun is on my list ! I don't have a booth
Now thats a finish,amazing work
I recently bought a conversion from 1.4 to 1.2 for my gun and wow super better paint jobs
Hi from Reunion Island.
Always magic your videos, and even more the results.
I have learned a lot since watching.
My weak point to get started will always be my little 200l/3hp compressor to make my DV1 clearcoat and basecoat work properly
dude loved the channel it seems like your going the same as gunman. thats why i have been watching kandyman but he doesnt go into detail i dont need it but i can always learn more 20 years in the game
another great video, If you go heavy on your first coat and get the coverage just allow more flash time while you're doing other things multitasking. 👍
Thanks for the info!
Great video, I was surprised you did not speak to the point of the importance of cleaning door jambs, etc as that is where hidden dirt blows out from.
Great point!
One of the things to help with getting a clean paint job that most painters never do is clean the air hose in the booth.
Thanks for your company that let you do this video's to show us this tips and tricks thanks Brain like always smashing my like botton Texas style yahoooooooooo katakaboooooooooooooooom
Kaboooooom
This page gave me courage to branch out on my own🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
We also run a sheet of plastic about 3 feet above the car from one end to the other helps alots attracts trash thunder road auto body.
Is it possible to just reclear a car without clear coat burn? As long as it's done up and over on each panel?
My concern is the paint underneath might be too thick and cause bubbling or cracking from the heat and thickness, ruining the new clear coat or discoloring the paint.
How should one approach this if only the clear coat is getting hazy on the factory finish (especially bumpers and painted plastics like the hood scoop) but the base is still looking good.
Thanks B
Your friend paul from canada 🇨🇦 aka “
Marlon bondo “
Love❤your channel ! First class
Hey, thanks
Your work is outstanding! But when I overlap, I very often get like a mist on! Maybe the gun I'm using or the settings!
Got to thinking……..I have 20 year old single stage paint that is in pretty good condition. Can (should) I squirt a clear coat over it?
Anytime i am doing a gloss black weather its jet black, Mitsubishi Labordor black (with the real fine blue metallics in it) or Toyota Tripple Black, i always spray the base, then i let it sit overnight, come in the next day and lightly block sand with 600grit, tac it off, then hit it with another 2 coats of base then go right into clear. Thats just what works for me personally. Even with Tamco Smoke Metallic or Urechem Tihation Black Pearl (two of my favorites) just makes me feel as if i get a much cleaner finish
If you have time that’s a great way
Thanks Brian that video was spot-on great. I hate the rotary lately but I was taught to cut n buff every 1 after 2000 dry.
Looks great!
Had a question for you. I picked up a ford raptor in tuxedo black. Hood needs repainted as well as a door so I’ll be blending.
Rest of the paint looks fine. No deep scratches but the clear looks old as it’s 10 years old. My question is would I get food adhesion if I say 400/600 sanded the whole truck to clear the whole truck in the clear stage? I know buffing is the usual answer. But with money and time not being a factor as it’s my time and I’d like the best result at the end I was just curious and brainstorming ideas.
Thanks Brian!
You have any videos on reducing base with or without a Ford Cup. RM and PPG seems to spray well per instructions but valspar doesn’t not.
U put this video at perfect timing.
Thanks for the calculator trick, I never thought about it to divide by ten
What clear coat was that with the 1.3 on the Sagola? Curious to learn about tip size vs thickness of clear coat. Some say larger tip like 1.4 for thicker material, and others say smaller tip size like a 1.2 and higher pressure to break the thick clear up. I can lay lower solids clears with no peel, but struggle with thicker clears.
Awesome 👍
I've learned a lot from your videos
Thanks for the great tips Sensei
Brian would you use same technique for a semi-gloss clear over a dk. green(blk) base?
Thanks for the tips,
Frank
with such short flash times between the coats of basecoat ,do you exit the booth or you stay inside?
What do you use to degrease and clean just prior to spraying? I tried lacquer thinner, but it affected the primer, as in removing some. Also what towel? I tried the paper blue shop towel with some rubbing alcohol but they kept depositing lint, which I got off with a low tack rag, but it was a pain.
Super clean with water before it hits the booth.
Micro fiber towels for cleaners in the booth
@@PaintSociety What cleaners in the booth?
@@bp7178he literally tells you in the video…
@@jordanbest3926 least helpful answer award…
Very nice! That does work I've been doing this for years
Have you used waterborne basecoat? It’s usually wet on wet application with the second being an effect coat. Also do you normally apply clear less than 40 percent overlap because you seem to be a fast painter?
Really cool u use Sikkens so I been painting for 30 years the energy select is a bad ass clear I use slow don’t like the fast using slow in the base coat makes it easier to blend metallic colors so what do you do to blend pastel colors
What size tip did you used in that clear gun ?
Great job Brian.... question how long after should the tape be removed ? And will it leave lines where the paint was painted?
What kind of sealer do you use ?? Thanks
How do you measure cap pressure for HVLP guns? Data sheets for the primers I use specify air cap pressure for HVLP guns.
Don’t measure cap. Ignore that. Just use a pressure that works
Another Great Video Bro!!!
Thank you for your time
Great tips
Would you recommend this extra reducer for a metallic black? Thank you 🙏 your videos are great
how do you find out how much reducer to use normally? My reducer doesn't say how much to use, so I normally just use "1" part... if the paint mixes 4:1 I'll mix it 4:1:1
Add it to your basecoat is what I’m saying. After it is all reduced. Then find out the total amount of oz and use the calculated trick
Brian... Excellent Tips... Thank You
Ok how do you put that much on without it running?? Just sayn I know you can but I always get runs and try to fix and end up repraying.single stage metalic,prep up to 400 or 600?? and I clear over that
This video has so many helpful tips thankyou! Would it be beneficial to ground strap the car to avoid static or is that a Mith?
Good Job Brian 👍👌
My local shop loves to scratch the fresh clear coat. I think it’s to match the rest of the car I told them there is no need to the last time and they still did it. They told me the clear was still a little soft so to bring it in in a month and they would buff it. Shouldn’t need it right?
I always learn good stuff from this Dude 👌😎
turned out perfectly
Did you add any additional reducer to the clear? Thank you!
amazing paintjob! Thanks for sharing.
Brian, is it true that in the early 90s Honda OEM paint was single-stage? Someone told me this but I don't think he is correct. Hope you can clarify. thank you!
Enjoyed your video as always.Thanks
Hey Brian I’m doing a complete paint change on a truck, from dark blue to black.
I am doing the engine bay and door jams.
Is it the same process of sanding to 220 to remove clear, unless the clear is failing and get to base. Then primer with 2K up to 600? Or should I sand the primer to 800 before base and clear?
It is not necessary with a solid color. 600 works well.
I noticed your using a Microfiber cloth to clean the panels? What are the benefits in this technique & what type of micro fiber cloths? Thanks
Glad you got the answer. Was just about to respond to your other comment
@PaintSociety Thanks so much man. Do you just REWASH them? Your Content is the best! Very informative as always!
What clear do you use
How much are those paint guns
Why didn't you blend back into rear quarter as well? Thanks Brian.
I talked about this in the video
Perfect job!
Great video as usual. But what about 10:12. It's a shame to do all this work and find there's a small dent in the crease of the panel. What would be your solution at this time? How about paintless dent repair. I live in the UK and the guys charge about £100 per panel for a repair.
Hey really enjoying your videos! Im looking at doing some surface rust repair on my silver metallic subaru. I just cant decide if i wanna go with cans or a gun! Whats the biggest factor when deciding ? Is it just not having all the equipment that makes people use the spray cans at home more ? Or is the sray gun alot harder? Thank you and keep up the great work 👍
Paint gun! It’s going to give the best possible outcome