RV Camper Rear Door Rebuild Repaneled Reframe Restoration 90% Nearly New For Next To Nothing
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Happy New Year! I get to celebrate and start the new year with solid doors.
Two conclusions while reviewing after upload: The latch would line up properly if I were to have flipped the wooden "C" frame vertically so the taller "2X4" section was above the narrow one. That's where I now believe it was by design, I'm guessing to be drilled out for a dead bolt. Not an issue, except the extra inch of aluminum I cut at the top of the latch opening will need patching. Also, the mysterious hole in the bottom "C" channeling is not present in the top channel. After careful review, it's not likely a sliding bolt to lock the door through the bottom only. It is probably a drain for water that collects in the gap between the wooden frame and the channel where the panels stick down a little bit from the wooden frame and polystyrene foam. In theory this works fine, especially if using a pressure treated piece, unless the hole gets clogged. Can those large drain holes even get clogged, or is it doomed despite the design? Who would even know about them even existing to clean out if they get clogged without this video's production, because I don't think it comes included in the instruction manual when you purchase an RV? It doesn't matter with the miracle of silicone caulking. All of these extra's came to me while reviewing my own work many times before and after upload, as happens a lot.
I've worked on the front door before with a bit of success, but I think I've got these things figured out. I'd be one hundred percent if I could just figure out what type of adhesive to bond sheeting to polystyrene foam. I'd like to make my own sheeting and foam panels for rebuilding RV doors out of nothing but the metal channels. Can I figure out how to make those too, or buy them? I could make money while providing people affordable RV doors.
I recently helped a neighbor fix some electrical and plumbing issues. That neighbor referred me to another who showed up while working on the door, giving me an opportunity to show off my work and set up future profit making while helping out in a desperately needed way. RV Repairman may be my new private business occupation if I can follow through with finishing touches like filler, trim, and paint then all I've got left to master is the roof. That's actually my first job offer, so I'm not charging too much because it will be a learning experience to be paid off in time.
OOPS! - When I'm talking about the first rebuild of the front door I accidentally refer to the Bathroom Door Video. The second video, top right on screen in the "RV Camper Repair" playlist, is the one I should've mentioned instead. Here's the title and address:
Failing Front Door Fixed To Full Function - Window Swap And Locking Knob Security
• Failing Front Door Fix...
UPDATE! A couple days later I fixed the upside down latch framing and put the patching underneath the paneling, lining up the mechanism and providing a more secure closure, almost getting rid of the light seeping through before I even reset the way the whole assembly lines up with the reset walls.
I also noticed the inside fiberglass is a half inch too low on the inside. I'm also wanting to figure out if JB Weld, sandpaper, and paint can fix up these holes, cuts, and seams on the aluminum to a near professional level? If not what will. Also, can you solder or weld aluminum seams together with basic equipment?
Joshua, how much does the adhesive cost?
Here's what I've got figured out. There are a lot of different products popping up, but it looks like there is one made to make it's purpose clear. I'm confident enough to judge this product advertisement good enough to take the purchase plunge. A quick price search finds it runs about $30 per can after taxes:
3M™ Polystyrene Insulation 78 Spray Adhesive
@@JoshuaDemersProductions i wanted to send a few dollars for working on your door. do you have a paypal or something?