I just received mine 30 minutes ago from the December 2023 batch! I watched this video a couple of months before ordering it and just came back to it to get to grips with all the knobs and movements. It's my first view camera, or 4x5 for that matter; coming from a Mamiya RZ67 Professional II that I bought about 15 years ago, this is a huge step up! Thanks for the great informative video!
This has got to be the MOST INFORMATIVE VIDEO on these 45F-2, i was a little confused on how to use the 4 knobs and now i know, they are to hold say a horseman back in PLACE, you are AWESOME. Thank you. My film Holders just arrived so planning to capture some images soon.
if your focusing knob slips, there's a small hex socket cap screw at its base (on the right side). you can (carefully, no need to overdo it!) tighten it with a small hex key to make the focusing knob hold itself better.
good video nico, one thing about the focus knob, on the right side (looking at camera in operational direction) there is a grub screw on the bushing of the knob, this adjusts tension of this focus knob.).
Hi Nico grear videos, I have this camera and I love it! Can you explain better about the asymmetrical tilt about the depht of field? First focus on the bottom, then tilt ( the focus on the bottom will be lost right?) then focus on the top, and then? You have to close the lens to check the DOF maybe? Thanks again!
Thanks for the explanation, beautifully made. Shame there's no horizontal asymmetric tilt like an Ebony, still it's at least 1kg lighter and cheaper new than an Ebony second.
I did not quite understand the focusing procedure you demoed with the asymmetrical tilt. The part with the focus on the bottom line „doesn’t work“ and the focusing on the top line. Doe you have any resource where I can learn more about this focusing strategy and when I would prefer asymmetrical tilt over symmetrical?
There is no difference in terms of what is possible to focus on in the image. The difference is purely in terms of _how_ you achieve that focus. With the standard tilt, you may need to combine multiple adjustments of tilt, push/pull, tilt again, push/pull etc. until you have gotten the plane of focus how you desire. With the asymmetric tilt, you can get the bottom horizontal line in focus, and then use the asymmetric tilt to put the top horizontal line into focus _without losing the bottom line_. So, the N2 will let you get any tilt you want, and the F2 will as well, but with the F2 if you put your focus on the bottom horizontal line in the ground glass, you can then adjust tilt without losing that focus (whereas with the N2, you would need to redo everything).
'normal' tilt is, as on a monorail, on the center axis of the lens, this works for Film or digital, asymmetrical tilt (micro-metric orbix tilt in the Arca Swiss/Chamonix cameras); on the other hand is an engineered curve {micro-metric tilt} for digital sensors, so they don't pull the lens too far away for focus, but require a line to show the axis of this tilt to do an easy job; asymmetric tilt on a 'field' or bed style camera is normally base tilt, aka the arc of tilt is 1cm or so above the focus bed of the camera, and is mainly for film again, as the top of the standard travels more than the bottom, so distorts the perspective, and changes focus with motion, axis tilt requires minimum or NO focus shift to correct the focus plane. The Affect on the image is as per the front standard, focus plane adjustment, but additionally the perspective changes, as the top/bottom of the lens are NOW at different distances from the film plane [lenses center axis], so barrel distortion, object size and distance to each other changes, depending on the degree of motion, minimum distortion for low angles of tilt, bigger as the angle increases. this can be best demonstrated by an old Calumet video on UA-cam titled "Large format: the professionals' choice"; where each affect is filmed directly from the ground glass view.
My F2 was scheduled to ship out from China on April 5th, just as Shanghai entered a lockdown of indefinite length. So my March camera is stuck there until flights start to go out again. Can't wait to get my hands on it!
Hey Nico, I have a question for you. First off let me just say that I am pretty clueless when it comes to large format, I have never shot it or even held such a camera. I understand it is a pretty slow process, big cameras that usually need a tripod, slow loading times, messing around with bellows and adjusting the lens in various directions. But the reward is really great image quality. So the question is - if you go through all the hassle why not just use 8x10 to get the best quality, are there any benefits to 4x5?
Personally, i would say the price and size of a 8x10 is much greater than operating a 4x5. For example, a 10 pack of Portra 160 for 4x5 is $55usd and a 10 pack of Portra 160 for 8x10 is $200. Backpacking with a 8x10 can be challenging as well. Trying to fit a camera with multiple film holders and multiple (heavy) lenses into a bad isn't super fun and definitely no to lug around all day. but if you're shooting studio or something less mobile i think 8x10 has a great advantage. So like all other camera gear it comes down to your own personal use and you should use your own judgement to figure out what suites you
@@throughjacobphoto Right I see. In my mind they are all big and expensive and didn’t realise there is such a huge range of “big” and “expensive”. Edit - Jesus, I just checked film prices in my country and they are twice as high as those you mentioned. $10 a pop for 4x5 and close to $50 for 8x10.
@@fibonacho There isn’t much choice on brands around here. To be honest I was just curious and am not planning to get into large format. I can see the appeal but it seems like a very big investment in time & money and I am not really up to it.
I just received mine 30 minutes ago from the December 2023 batch! I watched this video a couple of months before ordering it and just came back to it to get to grips with all the knobs and movements. It's my first view camera, or 4x5 for that matter; coming from a Mamiya RZ67 Professional II that I bought about 15 years ago, this is a huge step up! Thanks for the great informative video!
Thanks! Enjoy the camera
Thanks! This is exactly what I need! So clear and calm.
This has got to be the MOST INFORMATIVE VIDEO on these 45F-2, i was a little confused on how to use the 4 knobs and now i know, they are to hold say a horseman back in PLACE, you are AWESOME. Thank you. My film Holders just arrived so planning to capture some images soon.
Enjoy the camera. Its awesome!
@@NicosPhotographyShow Gracias.
De nada!
Excellent demonstration!
if your focusing knob slips, there's a small hex socket cap screw at its base (on the right side). you can (carefully, no need to overdo it!) tighten it with a small hex key to make the focusing knob hold itself better.
Nice. Great job
Excellent review of a good camera.
good video nico, one thing about the focus knob, on the right side (looking at camera in operational direction) there is a grub screw on the bushing of the knob, this adjusts tension of this focus knob.).
Thank you Nico!
Hi Nico grear videos, I have this camera and I love it! Can you explain better about the asymmetrical tilt about the depht of field? First focus on the bottom, then tilt ( the focus on the bottom will be lost right?) then focus on the top, and then? You have to close the lens to check the DOF maybe? Thanks again!
WOW!!! There is a lot to that bad boy!! No street shooting with this one.... but I"ll bet you can get some great portraits or landscape photos!!!!
Happy to see this large format review. Can you please do one on the tachihara 4x5 its movements etc. There is hardly anything on youtube about it
Thanks for the explanation, beautifully made. Shame there's no horizontal asymmetric tilt like an Ebony, still it's at least 1kg lighter and cheaper new than an Ebony second.
I did not quite understand the focusing procedure you demoed with the asymmetrical tilt. The part with the focus on the bottom line „doesn’t work“ and the focusing on the top line. Doe you have any resource where I can learn more about this focusing strategy and when I would prefer asymmetrical tilt over symmetrical?
archive.org/details/central-manuals-camera_ebony_U_asymmetrical.movements.pdf
Can you explain what is the difference between the normal tilt and the asymmetrical tilt? How does it affect the image?
There is no difference in terms of what is possible to focus on in the image. The difference is purely in terms of _how_ you achieve that focus. With the standard tilt, you may need to combine multiple adjustments of tilt, push/pull, tilt again, push/pull etc. until you have gotten the plane of focus how you desire. With the asymmetric tilt, you can get the bottom horizontal line in focus, and then use the asymmetric tilt to put the top horizontal line into focus _without losing the bottom line_. So, the N2 will let you get any tilt you want, and the F2 will as well, but with the F2 if you put your focus on the bottom horizontal line in the ground glass, you can then adjust tilt without losing that focus (whereas with the N2, you would need to redo everything).
'normal' tilt is, as on a monorail, on the center axis of the lens, this works for Film or digital, asymmetrical tilt (micro-metric orbix tilt in the Arca Swiss/Chamonix cameras); on the other hand is an engineered curve {micro-metric tilt} for digital sensors, so they don't pull the lens too far away for focus, but require a line to show the axis of this tilt to do an easy job; asymmetric tilt on a 'field' or bed style camera is normally base tilt, aka the arc of tilt is 1cm or so above the focus bed of the camera, and is mainly for film again, as the top of the standard travels more than the bottom, so distorts the perspective, and changes focus with motion, axis tilt requires minimum or NO focus shift to correct the focus plane.
The Affect on the image is as per the front standard, focus plane adjustment, but additionally the perspective changes, as the top/bottom of the lens are NOW at different distances from the film plane [lenses center axis], so barrel distortion, object size and distance to each other changes, depending on the degree of motion, minimum distortion for low angles of tilt, bigger as the angle increases.
this can be best demonstrated by an old Calumet video on UA-cam titled "Large format: the professionals' choice"; where each affect is filmed directly from the ground glass view.
Hello Nico! Can ask what ball head that is?
All of March & June's (2022) waiting list is sold out 😭 Such amazing cameras.
Try Chamonix via Instagram, he got me one the other day in less than 6 days. Cut the line by a lot.
My F2 was scheduled to ship out from China on April 5th, just as Shanghai entered a lockdown of indefinite length. So my March camera is stuck there until flights start to go out again. Can't wait to get my hands on it!
Yes, contact them on IG. They are very helpful. I got mine yesterday in Miami and just Took 1 week to get here.
@@tsuuuuumo Pumped & crossing my fingers for ya! Good luck
Hey Nico, I have a question for you. First off let me just say that I am pretty clueless when it comes to large format, I have never shot it or even held such a camera. I understand it is a pretty slow process, big cameras that usually need a tripod, slow loading times, messing around with bellows and adjusting the lens in various directions. But the reward is really great image quality. So the question is - if you go through all the hassle why not just use 8x10 to get the best quality, are there any benefits to 4x5?
Personally, i would say the price and size of a 8x10 is much greater than operating a 4x5. For example, a 10 pack of Portra 160 for 4x5 is $55usd and a 10 pack of Portra 160 for 8x10 is $200. Backpacking with a 8x10 can be challenging as well. Trying to fit a camera with multiple film holders and multiple (heavy) lenses into a bad isn't super fun and definitely no to lug around all day. but if you're shooting studio or something less mobile i think 8x10 has a great advantage. So like all other camera gear it comes down to your own personal use and you should use your own judgement to figure out what suites you
@@throughjacobphoto Right I see. In my mind they are all big and expensive and didn’t realise there is such a huge range of “big” and “expensive”.
Edit - Jesus, I just checked film prices in my country and they are twice as high as those you mentioned. $10 a pop for 4x5 and close to $50 for 8x10.
@@fibonacho There isn’t much choice on brands around here. To be honest I was just curious and am not planning to get into large format. I can see the appeal but it seems like a very big investment in time & money and I am not really up to it.
"big black knobs"...