I look at Bryan the way Bryan looks at Bryan. Your channel(s) is up there with the greats (NO KIDDING!). Also, for jokes - Bryan started the video saying how he didn’t relate with SkillShare and then goes ahead to drop a whole SkillShare/MasterClass level video on shooting, developing and scanning 4x5 haha. Love it and Gonna keep referencing this for my 120 work!!
Woah man, you literally covered everything one would need to get a fully fleshed out large format process going out of the goodness of yer own heart. Absolute champion! Fascinating that you use coins to flatten down the negs too, love seeing odd little behind the scenes aspects like that of what it takes to bring an image to life haha
Bryan, I was given a brilliant tip for lining up negatives when scanning with a digital camera. If you use a level on the camera, you can’t guarantee the plane of focus is exactly the same as that of your light source. If you place a flat mirror on your light source, focus in the mirror on the centre of the iris of the aperture blades, and then line that up with the centre focus point of your camera. You then have a perfect match between the focal plane of your camera sensor, and the focal plane of your light source. Another cracking video, sir!
Good to see someone else hatin' on movement abuse! Movements are fun and all, and ever one starts somewhere and gets it out of their system, but looking back we've all made so many shots that would have been sooo much better with little to no movements.
You're an example to why UA-cam is a great resource for people wanting to learn more about film photography and the process involved. Liked the subtle humour too. Thank you for taking about movements and metering Bryan 🙂 Appreciate you
I just got a 4x5 a few months ago and I’m still working my way to learn how to shoot it, in time for better weather in the summer. Thanks so much for making this video, you’ve helped so many! 💖
Thanks! I’m still pissed to this day about using black and white. It was a yellow truck. In other news I just saw last week that Jim passed away at the ripe age of 93. Lucky to have met him and taken his portrait.
Really in-depth and well thought out video. Good for you for not just "taking" the money for taking. Having a place to stand and make the videos and content you want without compromising is admirable. Came across your video on the pacemaker/graphic for use. I just recently got the pacemaker with a Rollei 150mm f2.8 and I needed to figure out how to work the shutter on it and after some searches yours came up. Best, detailed video that I have seen on the subject. Thanks! As for this one, like mentioned earlier. Keep it up and don't devalue your channel for a sponsorship you don't believe in. Maybe skillshare will see this and ask you to teach a class on 4x5! Look forward to more content and really dig the Artist and Portrait series! Also got a kick out of the 1st time video and the mess up with loading film. Don't feel bad, I still do it when I load cut down X-Ray film into my holders.
I know this video's over a year old but I thought I'd share some camera scanning tips that have worked for me after a lot of experimentation. For leveling I've started using a mirror on the light surface, then I just center the lens on it's own reflection in the preview, works every time and is considerably faster than fussing with levels etc. I've also had issues with newton rings and uneven illumination with the film directly touching the LED panel. I switched to using an 95% CRI LED video light from that jungle website. For 35mm and 120 I hold the film flat with the Essential Film Holder, it wasn't very expensive and it comes with a diffusion layer to ensure even illumination. For 4x5 I looked at the Negative Supply 4x5 holder but it seems overpriced. I switched to just two pieces of ANR glass that I hinged together with some gaff tape, works perfectly and it was cheap. The key for me has been to get the negative about an inch off the light source. Hope that information helps someone!
Well done Video that makes me want to shoot 4x5 again after 25 Years… What it helps at camera scanning when having a big light source ist to mask the negativ with a black cardboard frame or better put the negative in a 4x5 negative carrier from an old 4x5 enlarger…
@@BryanBirks that’s the only thing I need really is a nicer way to hold the negative, looks like I can use my CSlite to do half and half when it comes to scanning.
I've found that when scanning with a digital camera it really helps to have some kind of mask around the negative to block the light spillover from the light panel. Also, having the film touching the panel can create Newton rings. Lifting it off the surface a short distance eliminates them. I took a couple of pieces of black plexiglass and cut openings just the size of the exposed area of the negative. I sandwich the negative between the two pieces of plastic which keeps the negative nice and flat. Of course a film holder would do the same thing but only the best of them really hold the film flat.
I use a mask now. It definitely helps with light bleeding. As for newton rings I’ve never got them with the film directly on the light. I’m still using quarters. Haha no way in hell I’m paying hundreds of dollars for a couple sheets of glass.
Thank you for making this video! It's very thorough and easy to follow. I find it very helpful as I am just starting to learn how to develop and scan. Appreciate your videos, as always! Keep up the good work!
Hi Bryan, must say I used the first Intrepid 4x5 and it was not that sturdy, agreed. But I made a large part of my book series with it. And now I have the latest MK4 Intrepid and they really have made serious improvements.
Very Nice Job on this video!! Bravo on sharing your info. with modesty and clarity. Lots of depth about how to be a photographer shooting and developing_ You covered the bases beautifully!!!! Keep up the great work!!
If you're going to sell something on your channel you've got to believe it's going to benefit your viewers. I'm just getting back into shooting film after a 25 year break and developing at home is the only way to keep it affordable. I'm going to be doing E6 since I was gifted a bunch of Fuji sensia 100. It's obviously expired but it was stored in a freezer so I'm hopeful. Cheers.
I've just bought a tilt-shift lens for this reason, I gave up on large format a few years ago after buying an Intrepid and failing time after time with focus issues. But watching this video makes me want back in...
One of the last real ones on UA-cam! Appreciate your honesty Bryan 👍🏾 Also loved the video! I literally shot my first 4x5 sheet today using Fomapan 100...just as a test 😅
Great presentation Bryan . It's always great to learn something from you , younger photographers . That development formula for C-41, was of interest for me. I have that kit, just waiting to shoot enough rolls, to make a batch and process color for the first time. Good tip, on the temperature control . So, you get the temp to 105 or 106, then process, out of the water bath ? I am planning on using a Sous Vide , also. I think I am going to process out of the water bath, too . Thanks . KB.
Yeah sous vide just to maintain the temp and then process out of the bath. I usually take it out around 105 and go straight to developing. Have had great results that way. Get a good and precise thermometer. It will save you time and headaches!
Wow that was extensive. Excellent video Bryan, with a ton of information form Skillshare to the most important thing in the world "Kodak Film" Loved the talk and the information. If anyone asked me for a source of information on film development was I would direct them to Skillshare...lol Just joking guy !! Thanks for taking the time to produce this monumental video. The three stop filter information was a great idea since I have an older Copal shutter that only goes to 125. Have a pleasant evening. Cheers from Nova Scotia, Canada.
At 22:21 we see you hanging the wet film by a metal clip to dry. While that will work, may I make a suggestion? Replace the metal clip with a spring-powered wooden clothes pin. This suggestion comes from many years of experience. The metal only holds onto the film by tightly gripping it which *can* cause the film to deform. Also, it is possible for the metal to rust and stain the wet film. A wood clothes pin does not have any of these problems + it offers something else. Instead of metal points to pinch the film, a wood clothes pin has two opposing flat areas so they grip flat on either side of the film - not causing any deformation. But the wood does something the metal can't: when it gets wet, it gets soft and swells. To me, that means that the grip is more secure. Back when I was using metal clips, I had wet film slip off and fall to the floor! The wood clips have never done that in over 40 years of using them. As the film dries, so do the wood fibers. When the film is finally dry, the clothes pin has to be "encouraged" to release the film, something metal never did. Terry Thomas... the photographer Atlanta, Georgia USA
The hard part isn't sticking to your values. Its passing up the money that you know you deserve. I'm patient and will wait for a sponsor I can connect with.
One heck of a video! Question about your scanning the 4x5 negs: having shot the top half, you seem to smoothly “slide” the camera down to shoot the lower half. How do you do that and stay aligned with the neg? Are you using a slider or something on the tripod head? From what I could see of your tripod setup, I’d have thought the only way you could do that would be to move the Lightbox. Thanks.
Thanks! Just sliding the tripod on the ground by the legs. You only have to move it a little bit to get the bottom of the negative. That’s why leveling in line with the light is important so nothing goes off axis when moving down the negative.
Bro, what's the digital level that you use? :) Looks great, all I could find in my area are huge builders levels which don't really work with small digital cameras. Thanks!
Amazing video as ever! 24:11 - you mention the Kaiser is not as bright as the Raleno you used to use but needed a bigger table for 8x10. If you’re just scanning 35mm, 6x6 and 6x7 would you still recommend the Raleno? Did the Raleno sit flat/stable enough with the hump on the back of it?
Do you think the intrepid Mk4 would have left you feeling the same way? I'm between the chamonix and intrepid systems myself. Unless a wista or Toyo pop on eBay that cath my eye. Thanks for your time and great content as always.
Honestly if you think you’re going to be in it for the long haul just go Chamonix. You’ll thank yourself later on. It’s just better in every way. Plus you can sell for less of a cut compared to an intrepid. Chamonix will still sell for close to what you buy since they’re manufactured overseas and people don’t like to wait weeks for customs and what not. Message me on IG if you have any other concerns.
The other key difference between the Chamonix N series and F series is the rear asymetric tilt on the F making life easier for those using Scheimpflug so you don't to refocus multiple times as you use movements for stuff like architecture. Getting a F1 that has just the front knobs difference with the F2 might be a better buy for those wanting to save a bit.
I usually just fill it up and pour out around 10 times. You can also agitate during this as well. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don’t. It hasn’t made a difference.
@@BryanBirks Thank you for your prompt response. I'm sorry. My english was not good. I am wondering how many times you water rinse before putting it in the TF-5 fixer. And do you also agitating at this time? :-)
Bryan, this is a great, honest and really helpful video. Thank you and keep this honesty up, it is so refreshing and your steps help me a lot. B R I L L I A N T!!!
At what point in c-41 developing do you begin using the 140/(40-rolls) equation? After the first 10 rolls, or is it advised to use it after every use of the developer?
I start to use it after 10 rolls. Before that it’s not going to come into play too much. The good thing about c41 is you’re not going to all of a sudden get terrible results. You’ll gradually start to see changes and that’s when you’ll know that you need to mix up new chems or possibly increase developing time.
Great video, I don't have yet the negativelab, I use grain2pixel but only for black and white. And isn't f5,6 a bit to open for scan? I use only f10. Maybe it's the camera setup that makes the difference..
hey! great vid, Bryan! Happy to see you not selling out, too many of ytubers become hypocrites nowadays.."i do it for the art, gear does not matter"-but proceeds focusing on making gear vids surrounded by skillshare/squarespace/etc ads along the way. i have a question about scanning though.. have been contemplating to buy nikon coolscan 9000 for scanning (i mostly shoot medium format). But i see lots of people doing dslr scans.. any idea about the differences using each? is a dedicated scanner worth it? ..and is this the natural upscaling sequence everyone goes through? digital->35film->medium format->large format, haha, because i'm starting to feel the urge to go larger than 6x7:)) or is this just GAS
I don’t have much experience with Nikon scanners. I have heard good things but I would never be bothered to buy one after my Epson experience. I think it’s natural to think bigger is better. And it’s not really gas if you just want to experiment with things. It’s only gas after you’ve experienced a lot of things and you still think you need different gear to get better. Instead of just focusing on what you have.
I did indeed. Lovely lens but wanted one instead of two (150mm and 210mm). Pretty much every modern lens is solid. I’ll have to note Massive Dev Chart above. Forgot!
You almost took a small step towards selling out but instead you took a giant leap towards separating yourself from the rest and strengthened your brand.
@@ChrisMarxen Patreon would just be too much trouble with deciding what I want to put there versus the channel. Plus I’m still not fond of making people pay for certain things. That’s why I would much rather have a multi-million dollar business sponsor me and take their money so I can keep doing videos for free.
I think it's funny how SkillShare doesn't think we notice that they make every sponsored channel name a specific course that they say they have "enjoyed" lately.
Yeah HC-110 is single use and down the drain. Just make sure you run the water a bit. I certainly wouldn’t poor a full bottle of developer down but 15ml mixed with water is fine. Fixer is best if you take it to a place to dispose of for sure though.
Keep in touch...hardly, if at all. But the conversations, though brief, are always a delight. And I’d imagine when we meet again it’ll be just as good.
"you don't have to have a stop bath with it" Well... you might want to reconsider that. A cheap apple cider vinegar from your kitchen when mixed with water will immediately stop the developer and also allow the more expensive fixer to have a longer working life.
May I suggest your last stop with Photoflo not be tap water? Instead, use Steam Distilled Water because tap water really is not very clean. Depending on where you are in the world, the tap water will probably have "impurities" and could also have minerals dissolved in it. Neither one of which is good for film. I get my Steam Distilled Water from my local grocery store for less than US $1 per gallon.
Best way to support is just to watch when compelled. I always have a link to donate in the description as well. Grateful when people do but definitely not something I expect people to do. That’s why a sponsor would be exponentially better. Haha
I look at Bryan the way Bryan looks at Bryan. Your channel(s) is up there with the greats (NO KIDDING!). Also, for jokes - Bryan started the video saying how he didn’t relate with SkillShare and then goes ahead to drop a whole SkillShare/MasterClass level video on shooting, developing and scanning 4x5 haha. Love it and Gonna keep referencing this for my 120 work!!
Thank you for the kind words. It means a lot!
+1!
Woah man, you literally covered everything one would need to get a fully fleshed out large format process going out of the goodness of yer own heart. Absolute champion! Fascinating that you use coins to flatten down the negs too, love seeing odd little behind the scenes aspects like that of what it takes to bring an image to life haha
Well, this video was timed mighty conveniently...
I plead the fifth. 🤭
skillshare wished it had this master class
🤭
“Use what you’re shooting for”. Stellar advice!
subscribed asap as soon as you touched upon sponsorship ethics. respect dude ! excellent video from start to finish
🙏🏻
This is my go-to video if I need to remind myself of the basics when I’ve left my photography for a while.
And I’m still using it 2 years later.
Nice to hear. Thank you! I would update it but I'm still working the same way with most things.
Thank you for sharing your wonderful integrity and passion with us, Bryan. You're a real one!
I appreciate that! Thank you for watching.
Bryan, I was given a brilliant tip for lining up negatives when scanning with a digital camera. If you use a level on the camera, you can’t guarantee the plane of focus is exactly the same as that of your light source. If you place a flat mirror on your light source, focus in the mirror on the centre of the iris of the aperture blades, and then line that up with the centre focus point of your camera. You then have a perfect match between the focal plane of your camera sensor, and the focal plane of your light source. Another cracking video, sir!
I have heard that trick but never tried it myself. Maybe in the future!
Good to see someone else hatin' on movement abuse! Movements are fun and all, and ever one starts somewhere and gets it out of their system, but looking back we've all made so many shots that would have been sooo much better with little to no movements.
Oh for sure. No reason for a full body portrait to have only the head in focus. But we’ve all done it. Haha
Nick Carver, Todd Korol and you bro! Just keep doing exactly what you're doing. Bravo!
High praise. Thank you Chris 🤘🏻
I’m going to donate you just provide more information then anybody has thanks for what you do. I appreciate everything you do for this community.
The digital level is such a good idea!
You're an example to why UA-cam is a great resource for people wanting to learn more about film photography and the process involved. Liked the subtle humour too. Thank you for taking about movements and metering Bryan 🙂 Appreciate you
Thank you for watching!
30 minutes masterclass. Wow
Seriously bro. Do your job. You are great. As a human, as a man, as a joker ;)
Great work ethics, this is why your channel became one of my favorites.
Appreciate it Vincent!
What a masterclass. Short and sweet. Thanks!
You're very welcome!
I just got a 4x5 a few months ago and I’m still working my way to learn how to shoot it, in time for better weather in the summer. Thanks so much for making this video, you’ve helped so many! 💖
Those portraits of Jim at 11:19 are absolutely incredible
Thanks! I’m still pissed to this day about using black and white. It was a yellow truck.
In other news I just saw last week that Jim passed away at the ripe age of 93. Lucky to have met him and taken his portrait.
I was gonna click off your video for some reason at the beginning but your honesty kept me here.
Huge respect and great video
Thanks Alexandra. Glad you stayed around 🙌🏻
Really in-depth and well thought out video. Good for you for not just "taking" the money for taking. Having a place to stand and make the videos and content you want without compromising is admirable.
Came across your video on the pacemaker/graphic for use. I just recently got the pacemaker with a Rollei 150mm f2.8 and I needed to figure out how to work the shutter on it and after some searches yours came up. Best, detailed video that I have seen on the subject. Thanks!
As for this one, like mentioned earlier. Keep it up and don't devalue your channel for a sponsorship you don't believe in. Maybe skillshare will see this and ask you to teach a class on 4x5! Look forward to more content and really dig the Artist and Portrait series!
Also got a kick out of the 1st time video and the mess up with loading film. Don't feel bad, I still do it when I load cut down X-Ray film into my holders.
I'm new to 4x5, this was so helpful thanks for the effort. Well done.
I know this video's over a year old but I thought I'd share some camera scanning tips that have worked for me after a lot of experimentation. For leveling I've started using a mirror on the light surface, then I just center the lens on it's own reflection in the preview, works every time and is considerably faster than fussing with levels etc. I've also had issues with newton rings and uneven illumination with the film directly touching the LED panel. I switched to using an 95% CRI LED video light from that jungle website. For 35mm and 120 I hold the film flat with the Essential Film Holder, it wasn't very expensive and it comes with a diffusion layer to ensure even illumination. For 4x5 I looked at the Negative Supply 4x5 holder but it seems overpriced. I switched to just two pieces of ANR glass that I hinged together with some gaff tape, works perfectly and it was cheap. The key for me has been to get the negative about an inch off the light source. Hope that information helps someone!
Well done Video that makes me want to shoot 4x5 again after 25 Years… What it helps at camera scanning when having a big light source ist to mask the negativ with a black cardboard frame or better put the negative in a 4x5 negative carrier from an old 4x5 enlarger…
just got into 4x5, so stoked you made a video on this
Most of the info hasn’t changed. I am using a 4x5 lobster holder for scanning now though.
@@BryanBirks that’s the only thing I need really is a nicer way to hold the negative, looks like I can use my CSlite to do half and half when it comes to scanning.
I've found that when scanning with a digital camera it really helps to have some kind of mask around the negative to block the light spillover from the light panel. Also, having the film touching the panel can create Newton rings. Lifting it off the surface a short distance eliminates them. I took a couple of pieces of black plexiglass and cut openings just the size of the exposed area of the negative. I sandwich the negative between the two pieces of plastic which keeps the negative nice and flat. Of course a film holder would do the same thing but only the best of them really hold the film flat.
I use a mask now. It definitely helps with light bleeding. As for newton rings I’ve never got them with the film directly on the light. I’m still using quarters. Haha no way in hell I’m paying hundreds of dollars for a couple sheets of glass.
@@BryanBirks Glad you haven't had that problem. I ran into it right away when I first started scanning film. It was perplexing.
Thank you for making this video! It's very thorough and easy to follow. I find it very helpful as I am just starting to learn how to develop and scan. Appreciate your videos, as always! Keep up the good work!
Thank you Jessica!
Super!
It addresses everything including the answer to my question ✌🏾. Thank you
Hi Bryan, must say I used the first Intrepid 4x5 and it was not that sturdy, agreed. But I made a large part of my book series with it. And now I have the latest MK4 Intrepid and they really have made serious improvements.
Very Nice Job on this video!! Bravo on sharing your info. with modesty and clarity. Lots of depth about how to be a photographer shooting and developing_ You covered the bases beautifully!!!! Keep up the great work!!
Very interesting Bryan, thank you for sharing. I'm starting to take 4x5 photos more often so this video was very useful to me!
I had a lot of questions about 4x5 before this video... Now I have a whole lot less lol Great video Bryan!
Haha that’s what I like to hear.
Nice watching you. I didn’t know about digital levels.
If you're going to sell something on your channel you've got to believe it's going to benefit your viewers. I'm just getting back into shooting film after a 25 year break and developing at home is the only way to keep it affordable. I'm going to be doing E6 since I was gifted a bunch of Fuji sensia 100. It's obviously expired but it was stored in a freezer so I'm hopeful. Cheers.
I've just bought a tilt-shift lens for this reason, I gave up on large format a few years ago after buying an Intrepid and failing time after time with focus issues. But watching this video makes me want back in...
Never messed with a digital tilt shift before. Would be interesting to see how well you could mimic large format movements for sure!
One of the last real ones on UA-cam! Appreciate your honesty Bryan 👍🏾 Also loved the video! I literally shot my first 4x5 sheet today using Fomapan 100...just as a test 😅
Nice! Hopefully it turned out well.
@@BryanBirks Fingers crossed🤞🏾
12:27 I can relate!! You wanted to take a metering and she thought that you were handing her the meter!! I get this all the time!! It's kinda funny!!
Haha indeed. Happens half the time probably. I expect it now.
Bravo. Excellent information and presentation.
Super well presented, very clear. Awesome video.
Thanks sir!
amazing portraits! really inspiring... like someone already said much better than a skillshare lesson :)
Great presentation Bryan . It's always great to learn something from you , younger photographers . That development formula for C-41, was of interest for me. I have that kit, just waiting to shoot enough rolls, to make a batch and process color for the first time. Good tip, on the temperature control . So, you get the temp to 105 or 106, then process, out of the water bath ? I am planning on using a Sous Vide , also. I think I am going to process out of the water bath, too . Thanks . KB.
Yeah sous vide just to maintain the temp and then process out of the bath. I usually take it out around 105 and go straight to developing. Have had great results that way. Get a good and precise thermometer. It will save you time and headaches!
@@BryanBirks Thanks for the info. I was hoping for a less sloppy technique . KB
Legend worthy presentation.
Mad respect brother!
Wow that was extensive. Excellent video Bryan, with a ton of information form Skillshare to the most important thing in the world "Kodak Film" Loved the talk and the information. If anyone asked me for a source of information on film development was I would direct them to Skillshare...lol Just joking guy !! Thanks for taking the time to produce this monumental video. The three stop filter information was a great idea since I have an older Copal shutter that only goes to 125. Have a pleasant evening. Cheers from Nova Scotia, Canada.
Hope to make my way to Canada someday.
At 22:21 we see you hanging the wet film by a metal clip to dry.
While that will work, may I make a suggestion? Replace the metal clip with a spring-powered wooden clothes pin. This suggestion comes from many years of experience. The metal only holds onto the film by tightly gripping it which *can* cause the film to deform. Also, it is possible for the metal to rust and stain the wet film.
A wood clothes pin does not have any of these problems + it offers something else.
Instead of metal points to pinch the film, a wood clothes pin has two opposing flat areas so they grip flat on either side of the film - not causing any deformation.
But the wood does something the metal can't: when it gets wet, it gets soft and swells. To me, that means that the grip is more secure. Back when I was using metal clips, I had wet film slip off and fall to the floor! The wood clips have never done that in over 40 years of using them. As the film dries, so do the wood fibers. When the film is finally dry, the clothes pin has to be "encouraged" to release the film, something metal never did.
Terry Thomas...
the photographer
Atlanta, Georgia USA
You're integrity is priceless. You'll look back on that decision fondly for the rest of your life. I'd like to think if do the same with my podcast.
The hard part isn't sticking to your values. Its passing up the money that you know you deserve. I'm patient and will wait for a sponsor I can connect with.
Bless you.
One heck of a video! Question about your scanning the 4x5 negs: having shot the top half, you seem to smoothly “slide” the camera down to shoot the lower half. How do you do that and stay aligned with the neg? Are you using a slider or something on the tripod head? From what I could see of your tripod setup, I’d have thought the only way you could do that would be to move the Lightbox. Thanks.
Thanks!
Just sliding the tripod on the ground by the legs. You only have to move it a little bit to get the bottom of the negative. That’s why leveling in line with the light is important so nothing goes off axis when moving down the negative.
Great video Bryan !! 👍🏻
Respect!
👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Hi Bryan,
have you tried the mirror method instead of the bubble level? I strongly recommend you that one.
Bro, what's the digital level that you use? :) Looks great, all I could find in my area are huge builders levels which don't really work with small digital cameras. Thanks!
I believe it’s a Johnson digital angle locator. Got it online!
Great video. On the digital scanning set up, what type lens did you use with the LUMIX? 35mm, 50mm?
It’s a Sigma 70mm art macro! Only one I’ve ever used. Works great. Sharp as a tack.
Fabulous video. Thanks.
Amazing video as ever! 24:11 - you mention the Kaiser is not as bright as the Raleno you used to use but needed a bigger table for 8x10. If you’re just scanning 35mm, 6x6 and 6x7 would you still recommend the Raleno? Did the Raleno sit flat/stable enough with the hump on the back of it?
The bigger Raleno for $60 sits perfectly flat and that’s what I would go with for smaller formats.
@@BryanBirks awesome, think I’m going to move to DSLR scanning. Thank you so much!
Do you think the intrepid Mk4 would have left you feeling the same way? I'm between the chamonix and intrepid systems myself. Unless a wista or Toyo pop on eBay that cath my eye. Thanks for your time and great content as always.
Honestly if you think you’re going to be in it for the long haul just go Chamonix. You’ll thank yourself later on. It’s just better in every way. Plus you can sell for less of a cut compared to an intrepid. Chamonix will still sell for close to what you buy since they’re manufactured overseas and people don’t like to wait weeks for customs and what not.
Message me on IG if you have any other concerns.
@@BryanBirks Thank you so much for the help and will do.
The other key difference between the Chamonix N series and F series is the rear asymetric tilt on the F making life easier for those using Scheimpflug so you don't to refocus multiple times as you use movements for stuff like architecture. Getting a F1 that has just the front knobs difference with the F2 might be a better buy for those wanting to save a bit.
Yeah F2 is a great camera. I had one at first but never used the base tilt for portraiture. It was a bit heavier as well. Overall their all great.
Great video. Curious what app you’re using to get your chemical ratios?
Massive Dev Chart. Very handy but all of the formulas are user uploaded. Now that I use one film and one developer I just go by Kodak’s suggestion.
Another awesom and useful video! I am wondering how many times you water rinse after developing. And do you also agitating at this time?
I usually just fill it up and pour out around 10 times. You can also agitate during this as well. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don’t. It hasn’t made a difference.
@@BryanBirks Thank you for your prompt response. I'm sorry. My english was not good. I am wondering how many times you water rinse before putting it in the TF-5 fixer. And do you also agitating at this time? :-)
Just rinse once before fixer. No agitation. Mostly just to get excess developer off the film.
@@BryanBirks Thank you for the information. ;-)
Bryan, this is a great, honest and really helpful video. Thank you and keep this honesty up, it is so refreshing and your steps help me a lot. B R I L L I A N T!!!
At what point in c-41 developing do you begin using the 140/(40-rolls) equation? After the first 10 rolls, or is it advised to use it after every use of the developer?
I start to use it after 10 rolls. Before that it’s not going to come into play too much. The good thing about c41 is you’re not going to all of a sudden get terrible results. You’ll gradually start to see changes and that’s when you’ll know that you need to mix up new chems or possibly increase developing time.
Thanks man! I appreciate the response, and I appreciate the work you're putting out there.
Great video, I don't have yet the negativelab, I use grain2pixel but only for black and white. And isn't f5,6 a bit to open for scan? I use only f10. Maybe it's the camera setup that makes the difference..
I read that two stops closed down from the widest aperture is where the lens will be sharpest but now I use f8 to help with any vignetting.
@@BryanBirks indeed, but I use a macro lens tamron 90 2.8 and I saw that f10 is the best option
Shat my pants looking at the price of that Carl zeiss lens. Nice video!
Haha I only paid $1,000 for mine. It’s the older version. Not the T* coated overpriced ones.
Interesting video, thanks!
hey! great vid, Bryan! Happy to see you not selling out, too many of ytubers become hypocrites nowadays.."i do it for the art, gear does not matter"-but proceeds focusing on making gear vids surrounded by skillshare/squarespace/etc ads along the way.
i have a question about scanning though.. have been contemplating to buy nikon coolscan 9000 for scanning (i mostly shoot medium format). But i see lots of people doing dslr scans.. any idea about the differences using each? is a dedicated scanner worth it?
..and is this the natural upscaling sequence everyone goes through? digital->35film->medium format->large format, haha, because i'm starting to feel the urge to go larger than 6x7:)) or is this just GAS
I don’t have much experience with Nikon scanners. I have heard good things but I would never be bothered to buy one after my Epson experience.
I think it’s natural to think bigger is better. And it’s not really gas if you just want to experiment with things. It’s only gas after you’ve experienced a lot of things and you still think you need different gear to get better. Instead of just focusing on what you have.
loved this pal
Best video, thank you
Good job, Goose!:)
Really nice video !!! Saludos desde Costa Rica
Gracias 🙏🏻
Did you ever try any alternative scanning setups?
Nope. Still the same. Haven’t needed to change anything.
Very helpful!
Great seeing your process, what was the digital level you used?
I believe it’s a Johnson digital angle locator. Got it from Home Depot.
Ace vid! Did you get rid of the Sironar-N?
Also to note you should have mentioned the Massive Dev App! It's a must 😊
I did indeed. Lovely lens but wanted one instead of two (150mm and 210mm). Pretty much every modern lens is solid. I’ll have to note Massive Dev Chart above. Forgot!
Hell yeah
You almost took a small step towards selling out but instead you took a giant leap towards separating yourself from the rest and strengthened your brand.
If only that paid the bills. Haha just kidding...somewhat.... *cries in Skillshare*
@@BryanBirks I have not checked but what about Patreon? Are you using it and if not, why?
@@ChrisMarxen Patreon would just be too much trouble with deciding what I want to put there versus the channel. Plus I’m still not fond of making people pay for certain things. That’s why I would much rather have a multi-million dollar business sponsor me and take their money so I can keep doing videos for free.
What lens are you using? I am debating getting the laowa 100mm macro or the sigma 105mm macro to pair with may a7r IV. Going to scan 35mm and 4x5.
I use a Sigma 70mm. But honestly I would just read reviews and maybe try to get something that does 1:1.
I might’ve missed it but which lens are you using to scan/digitize with? I’m assuming a macro lens of sorts
Sigma 70mm Art Macro!
Do you mask the negative off with anything? I'm getting weird glare coming from excess light at the sides of the frame
I never have personally. If you do just use some thick card stock or cardboard to cover up the excess light.
What was the program called that you used to invert the negative In Lightroom?
Negative lab pro!
Holy fuck you got the Planar.... also keep it up, I love the channel.
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Found a solid deal on a very lovely copy of one. Fantastic lens.
I think it's funny how SkillShare doesn't think we notice that they make every sponsored channel name a specific course that they say they have "enjoyed" lately.
Haha for sure. Guidelines say “make it personal.” 😂 well that’s what they told me at least on their copy and paste email job
I’m not the only one who wears Kodak t-shirts...🤷🏾♂️😆🤪
Gift from the girlfriend. Love it !
I just got all my developing chemistry and i'm waiting for some last bits of hardware to get going with home development
Get ready to feel like a mad scientist.
@@BryanBirks I was wondering about the Bnw development. It's single use and safe to dump down the drain?
Yeah HC-110 is single use and down the drain. Just make sure you run the water a bit. I certainly wouldn’t poor a full bottle of developer down but 15ml mixed with water is fine.
Fixer is best if you take it to a place to dispose of for sure though.
@@BryanBirks cool thanks for the feed back bryan!
Not to worry. The water is going to be running to wash the film after fixing so there will be more than enough to flush the drains.
This video isn't long. It's lunch break sized.
👊👊💥
👏👏
Thou art a legend bro.
#Skillshare nobody really cares about em
Havent seen you in a while, have you been working out?
It’s just the shirt. Kodak tones you up.
@@BryanBirks you're right, the fabled Kodachrome Buff :)
legit as fuck!! do you keep in touch with the strangers you photograph? have any good relationships come out of it?
Keep in touch...hardly, if at all. But the conversations, though brief, are always a delight. And I’d imagine when we meet again it’ll be just as good.
"you don't have to have a stop bath with it" Well... you might want to reconsider that.
A cheap apple cider vinegar from your kitchen when mixed with water will immediately stop the developer and also allow the more expensive fixer to have a longer working life.
shoots film just to shoot it with digital.... perfect logic.
Hey. You’re a dunce.
May I suggest your last stop with Photoflo not be tap water? Instead, use Steam Distilled Water because tap water really is not very clean. Depending on where you are in the world, the tap water will probably have "impurities" and could also have minerals dissolved in it. Neither one of which is good for film. I get my Steam Distilled Water from my local grocery store for less than US $1 per gallon.
5*****
first - and still no cat pictures :(
My neighbor has a cat.
not using gloves and doing development in your kitchen where fumes can bind to the fats in your food is extremely brave
thank you
blah blah blah...NEXT !
I hope you’re having a good day Rob. Judging by this comment you seem to be a tad peeved about something.
@@BryanBirks yes peeved at asshole youtubers blabbering shit..
Hey Bryan, appreciate your good ethics! Is there any other way we could support you?
Best way to support is just to watch when compelled. I always have a link to donate in the description as well. Grateful when people do but definitely not something I expect people to do. That’s why a sponsor would be exponentially better. Haha