My friend messed up his coil wiring now car wont have spark.... I will tell him to check wiring since i notice theres a positive short to ground somewhere.... He probably mixed up some wires going to the coil now the distributor aint getting power..... With negative battery cable disconnected i still get a 10V reading between negative terminal and the chassis..... I will look for the short now
It is only a test of the general health of the wire. If it is out of range replace it, if it is in range it is most likely still usable (unless the outer insulation is cracking missing or damaged)
FYI I found out later that you need to place the meter leads both inside the secondary leads(Coil Sockets) to get the reading 15m to 19m for the dual Onan coil.
Thanks for the video. Did you check leads prior to the check to see if they zeroed out? I believe you're supposed to subtract that number from the indicated reading.
I was able to do the 2nd part of the test with my multimeter set on the ohm setting at 20K and I got roughly 7.5k reading I think you said if it's over 5K the coil is good. So does that mean my coil is good?
@@Foxcanfixit On pins 2 and 3, I got no reading at all, it just remained at .1 on the ohm resistance setting. Keep in mind this is from a 1992 VW Corrado VR6 ignition coil module. Your coil is a bit older so my location points are different.
Coil packs are tested different, check the VW forums or look up an online service manual for it. There will probably be an ohms test, but the acceptable ranges will probably be different, and you could have an ECU trigger problem you could test for as well.
@@Foxcanfixit This is not a "coil pack". It's an ignition coil module just to clear things up sorry if I didn't emphasize that. So yes my readings are correct and I have confirmed from other viable resources that my ICM ignition coil module is burnt out. I've already received a new one today mission complete.
It’s probably OK as long as it’s steady. This was an externally resisted coil, internally resisted ones will have different specs, but low and steady for outside and high and steady for inside and it’s usually ok
Excellent video, thank you. All you need is a link to a video on how to test the condenser.
How is a regular diy guy supposed to know how many ohms we should have to know if it’s good or bad? I’m also referring to in general
These days I would google it, or buy the shop manual for it on EBay
I got 1.6 at low voltage and at 20k it’s 10.38. So is it good or bad
My friend messed up his coil wiring now car wont have spark.... I will tell him to check wiring since i notice theres a positive short to ground somewhere.... He probably mixed up some wires going to the coil now the distributor aint getting power..... With negative battery cable disconnected i still get a 10V reading between negative terminal and the chassis..... I will look for the short now
I don’t have one of those fancy meters, and I don’t think my tongue will reach from one side to the other on those little posts…😂😂
Bahahaha😂🤣
Good Stuff! Thanks! 👍👀👍
Imagine meeting you in a place like this BB!!!!!
But your tail will reach!
do you need to disconnect the postive and negative leads from the car to test?
Preferably.
What about insulation breakdown at high voltage. Resistance only tells you part of the story.
It is only a test of the general health of the wire. If it is out of range replace it, if it is in range it is most likely still usable (unless the outer insulation is cracking missing or damaged)
I have an Onan with two coil wire outputs. The secondary procedure should be the same for both wires? Thanks
Should be
FYI I found out later that you need to place the meter leads both inside the secondary leads(Coil Sockets) to get the reading 15m to 19m for the dual Onan coil.
@@dirkhagar2399 that’s good information!
How do we know if bad what's the readings?
Anything other than a steady reading within the specified range of your coil on either the primary or secondary side is a bad coil
What about internally resisted coils?
On these old oil filled canister style coils they will all have similar resistance ranges.
Thanks for the video. Did you check leads prior to the check to see if they zeroed out? I believe you're supposed to subtract that number from the indicated reading.
With this cheap meter it never zeroes well, but the number was not significant enough to sway the outcome
I was able to do the 2nd part of the test with my multimeter set on the ohm setting at 20K and I got roughly 7.5k reading I think you said if it's over 5K the coil is good. So does that mean my coil is good?
Well that winding is probably good, what did you get on the 1st part?
@@Foxcanfixit On pins 2 and 3, I got no reading at all, it just remained at .1 on the ohm resistance setting. Keep in mind this is from a 1992 VW Corrado VR6 ignition coil module. Your coil is a bit older so my location points are different.
Coil packs are tested different, check the VW forums or look up an online service manual for it. There will probably be an ohms test, but the acceptable ranges will probably be different, and you could have an ECU trigger problem you could test for as well.
@@Foxcanfixit This is not a "coil pack". It's an ignition coil module just to clear things up sorry if I didn't emphasize that. So yes my readings are correct and I have confirmed from other viable resources that my ICM ignition coil module is burnt out. I've already received a new one today mission complete.
That’s great! So what are the primary and secondary winding Ohms readings supposed to be on it?
Is there continuity between the pos and negative?
Yes
@@Foxcanfixit I'm trying to understand why? Aren't there two different windings? So at some point, these windings touch?
@@Foxcanfixit I see, it's the same winding, the primary
@@frontlinemedia4270 yes 2 windings one going from + to - and one from + to the coil wire output
@@Foxcanfixit one problem I have is the coil is not marked with + or -. Is there a way to figure out which is which?
On the first test i get 0.9 Ohm what does that mean
Low resistance (below say 3 ohms) usually means a short in the windings, replace the coil.
mine shows 15 on the first test
Did yo look up the specs for your coil? 15 is on the high end, but if it’s steady it may be ok.
I’m getting zero ohms on the first part
What ohm setting is your meter on? If it’s set too high it will register zero for less than 10 ohms
Good coil 10 ohms.
Depends on the coil but usually yes
🤔
I got 5ohms steady going 6 sometimes. is it bad or good?
It’s probably OK as long as it’s steady. This was an externally resisted coil, internally resisted ones will have different specs, but low and steady for outside and high and steady for inside and it’s usually ok