Wow, that was clear as mud....lol Not any error on your part....just my thick skull learning a new concept. It is not the first time I had trouble with a new concept. No worries I will watch it again till it sinks in. Thank for sharing this. I am sure once the lightbulb goes on, it will be a useful tool.
I would suggest trying it out, using thick yarn and needles on, say, a 16'' circumference needle (this allows you to work continuously in the round, without dealing with Magic Loop or two circs, and without having to deal with tons of stitches. Getting the physical experience of working the process through will help clear up the confusion.
This is a game changer! I've been knitting forever and consider myself a very experienced knitter but have never used this technique before. Thank you for the great tutorial!
Thank you so much for this video Roxanne. I could knit pretty good, but until now I always had to base my knitting on someone else experience. To figure out the why and the how to fix it takes a good sense of observation and a lot of imagination. Not that I want to kick out the standard ways of knitting but it is obvious that the modest beginnings of this art did need to be improved😢😅. Some companions are helpful but they still aren’t the best life partnership. So let us be humble and recognize that the best life partnership is not always the first one met.
Thank you, Roxanne! This seam in garter stitch knitting in the round has been a nuisance to me for a long time. I will try your method and see how it works out!! I really appreciate the time you take and your wonderful explanations, so I can understand!!! Happy 4th & Happy Knitting!
Thank you so much for this! I have almost finished a top-down cards for myself (East Coast Girl by Vera Valimaki), the sleeves knit in the round with a garter stitch cuff. I scoured the internets for a solution to this jog issue, and found nothing. The best solution I could come up with myself was to purl one stitch down on the last stitch of the purl round (is that fisherman's rib?). It made a lovely stocking stitch line up the inside of the cuff that I quite liked, but next time, thanks to you I will,know what to do. Too easy!
Wonderful. Thank you so much for this. I’ve knitted quite a few hats in garter stitch in the round ( I love the Rikke hat pattern ) and they ALL have that seam. I never know if the recipient will know to wear the hat with the seam at the back of the head. Now, thanks to you, I know how how to avoid the problem altogether. One thing I’ve noticed is that you can work the round ( eg purl) right up to the stitch that holds the yarn for the next round. Just slip that first stitch ( the stitch holding the knit side yarn) snug it up tight and then keep working in knit stitch for the knit round. So I’m not clear as to why you instruct people to stop and slip 3 stitches before the next round. I’m finding that it’s not really necessary.
I think I mentioned in the video that there is nothing magic about the 3 sts. You can stop at any point, as long as you don't knit past the other strand. The problem many knitters have with knitting up to the point of the other yarn is that because it's not on the needle when you resume working with it, it's easy to pull the stitch too tight and create tension problems. If the stitch is still on the needle when you start knitting with that strand, you force the stitch to maintain its size.
When knitting in the round, at the last stitch, pick up the first stitch, bind off the last stitch over the first stitch and pull the thread through and weave in. No jog and a much smoother finish.
Hi again - thank you for your advice; will be buying you a coffee in just a moment! I realise now that joining in this way isn't an issue but I did wonder why you purl the first round when usually to get garter stitch the first row would be a knit. Many thanks. G
Garter stitch done flat is *usually* done by knitting every row. That produces a row of purl on the opposite face of the fabric. The result is that with respect to one face of the fabric, you have a row of knits with a row of purls above it, a row of knits above that, etc., while on the other face, you have a row of purls with a row of knits above that, etc. (The ridges are offset) You can get garter stitch by knitting every row OR by purling every row. I used the long tail cast on, which creates an edge of twisted loops, which are immediately knit as each loop is created. On the back side of the fabric, the heads of the twisted loops appear as purl bumps. If I were knitting flat, I would turn the work after I cast on, and those purl bumps would be facing me, and I would knit across. When I use the LTCO in the round, I *don't* turn the work when I join in the round, so those purl bumps are on the WS of the work. In order to create the same garter stitch I would have had knitting flat, I need to purl that first round. If you use a CO which doesn't require you to turn the work to knit the first row but does require you to turn in order to join in the round, you *might* want to start with a round of knit. Ultimately, it's knitters choice. It's always worth swatching to see what happens when you wonder Why? or What if? It's the best way to really understand how knitting works.
I love making Checkerboard Slippers, My question is, can you do a video on this technique. My friends are asking me to teach them and I’m not the best in explaining. There is only a couple of videos out there, the best one is in French. It would be great to be able to watch and share in English. Would this be a consideration? Thank you, ahead of time 🙋♀️🧶💓
It's unlikely I would choose to do a video like this, since it would be a tutorial on a specific project and my videos are aimed at techniques. You might try teaching your friends by having them watch the French video with you, while you supplement the instruction in English.
Thank you so much for your videos. I used to hate knitting until I decided to teach myself once and for all a few years ago by going online, and watching UA-cam videos (just like I did when I wanted to learn how to make friendship bracelets). I was shocked to find there was another way to hold the needles, and I now LOVE to knit. I even started teaching my daughter. I do have a question... I make a lot of hats, and I like a ribbed rim, sometimes folded over and knit together by either picking up each stitch, or doing a provisional cast on... I really like the garter stitch, and made a very nice hat but have a seam.... **Is there a way to add a seamless garter after a 1 x1 or 2 x2 rib?
When you slip them, you aren't working them, so they will look the same as they did before you slipped them. Eventually, when they are worked, you will work them in whatever way is appropriate to maintain the garter stitch fabric: either as a knit or a purl.
This is ingenious! Thanks for showing us this! Am I correct in my understanding that the change from K to P and vice versa is going to be multiples of 3 before the beginning of the round (where the marker is)? ie: rnd 1 is 3 stitches before, rnd 2 is 6, rnd 3 is 9, rnd 4 is 12, and so on until changing stitch pattern or binding off?
If you consistently stop 3 sts before, then, yes, but you can stop any number of sts before the other yarn. If you're working on dpns, you can leave the yarn hanging at the end of a dpn, and then just rotate the work to where the next yarn is hanging at the end of that dpn. There's nothing magic about 3 sts.
Well, yes, because you're always stopping 3 sts earlier than before. That's why the purl yarn was hanging half way around the round when I was ready to finish. Eventually, it will work its way back around to the start of the round, where the marker hangs.
fascinating thank you. Do I understand the principles well when I say, it s possible to work with one string and instead of alternating the yarns to lead the string behind the three slipped loops on the reverse site of the fabric ?
That's not how it works, unfortunately. There is nothing magic about 3 sts. You could space them 50 sts apart, or no stitches apart. The reason for the 3-stitch spacing is to avoid tension issues in the fabric when you switch strands. I would suggest trying out the technique on a swatch so that you can understand better how it works. You could then try out your idea, and then see what happens. It's the best way of learning more about how knitting works.
This example looks like you used two different balls of yarn, one for knits and one for purls. I have found the Zadie sweater and thought of trying it out and someone said that this technique that you demonstrate seems the best for the border. Also on Ravelry, it shows a woman who made the sweater but there is puckering in the breast area. What would be your recommendation to not have this happen? Thank you!
That is a great technique if you are starting with a garter stitch area but so often there are garter stitches in the middle of other patterns so there are not two yarns to work with. Also I recently did a top down tee with a garter stitch hem, so again there weren't 2 yarns to work with. Do you have any suggestions for these kinds of situations?
I love all your technique Tuesday videos! Have a learnt a lot from watching those. I am knitting a sweater that is knit in the round. There is a panel in the front of the sweater that I want to use colorwork using slipped stitches. How do I do that while still knitting in the round? My problem is that the contrast color will be at the end of the panel when I get back to the panel after knitting the round.
Sometimes, techniques are not compatible in the same project. Flat knitting is often the solution for working colorwork in a panel (as you would like to do), or in a situation like intarsia (colorblock) knitting. You could use a technique like ladderback Jacquard to catch the yarn at the back of the work for the rest of the round, so that it is in the correct location for the following round, or you can work the project flat, or you can use a technique like the one used for "intarsia in the round," which still requires you to work back and forth, but links the start and end of the round together so that you can create a seamless tube.
Fascinating! This will be very useful for future projects. I’m currently working a sweater, in one piece, and the sleeves have garter cuffs. But I’m working from the top down. Should I join a strand to give me this ability?
Hiya Roxanne! I've worked quite a few rows on a test piece for a cuff with this method, and though I've got the method down, I'm still confused by one detail. How is it that those three (or however many) stitches that are slipped do not somehow affect the length or the look of the piece? Slipping three stitches in the middle of each row seems like it would affect the overall result somehow. Am I just missing something obvious? Thanks for all you do!
Let's say you have 100 sts in a round, and you work sts 1-97, then slip the last three and work sts 1-94 with the second strand, then slip three. You are now at st 97, where you dropped the first strand. You pick it up and start where you left off, working sts 98, 99, 100 and then you work until you get to st 91, slip 3, and now you are at st 94, where you left the 2nd strand. Every stitch gets worked, eventually. You don't have to stop 3 sts short. You can stop 10 sts or 50 sts short and slip until you get to the waiting strand. You can even knit right up to the other strand (just don't go past it). I believe I mentioned in the video that the problem with knitting right up to the other strand is that it's difficult to manage the tension, so it's best to stop short. Three sts is close enough to where you left the last strand, but far enough not to affect the tension.
Probably the easiest way to do that would be to slip the first purl stitch on the following round, assuming you only had a single purl round to deal with. If the single purl round is repeated, I'd probably find a different jogless technique. Whether or not it's worth doing depends on what the purpose of the purl round is. If it's a turning round for a hem, it may not be noticeable enough to bother with a jogless technique.
Great vid. I "get" it. Swatched and easy peasy. Question: I work lots of kid stuff with "stripes of texture" i.e. several rows of stocking then several of reverse stocking and the jog is obvious but I live with it. I understand this tech nique is predicated on 2 strands and why it works. How do you hide the jog just switching from k to p in the round using 1 strand? You answered another question by saying there will always be a jog, so maybe I should accept it. Tried slipping 1 then lifting the changing stitch and that helps. Also I'm swatching this (garter) in multi colors and right now I have a LOT of yarn going on. Am I wasting my time?
There are various jogless jog techniques. I prefer using a technique for this situation where you work a full round in the new stitch pattern, remove your BOR marker, then work below into the first stitch (in whatever stitch that first stitch had been worked. This stitch now becomes the EOR. Replace the BOR marker. This moves the starting position of the round every time you change the stitch pattern. If the original BOR location is important for shaping, then you can maintain the original marker to denote that location, but use a second marker to note the location of the pattern change. I'll likely demonstrate this for next week's video.
Hi Roxanne- amazing technique and very well explained . Thank you . I have a quick question, can you use this technique for two colors of yarn? I have a hat that has garter stitch pattern on the round with two colors alternating . I would love to hear back from you . Thank you so much ,
Assuming that each color is worked for two rounds, in order to make a complete garter ridge in each color, before switching to the other color, I think you could do it, but you'd have to use a more advanced method of helical knitting, which in stockinette, allows for 4 one-row stripes of color. Instead of 4 colors, all worked in stockinette, you'd have 2 strands of each of the 2 colors, with one strand used for the knit round, and one for the purl round. I don't have a video on how to do helical knitting with 4 strands, but I imagine there are numerous tutorials and videos on the topic.
The way to find out is to do two swatches that have the same number of sts, worked for the same number of rounds, with one using a single strand, and the other using two strands.
Interesting. Also thanks for showing the endggame work. Lots of times videos leave you hanging but those finishing details ARE important!
I love your tutorials. Very thorough!
Very interesting technique! Thanks for sharing!
Your bind off technique is fabulous. Thank you for sharing it. Need to get onto Ravelry.
That was amazing! I have never seen that before now. Thank you!
Wow, that was clear as mud....lol Not any error on your part....just my thick skull learning a new concept. It is not the first time I had trouble with a new concept. No worries I will watch it again till it sinks in. Thank for sharing this. I am sure once the lightbulb goes on, it will be a useful tool.
I would suggest trying it out, using thick yarn and needles on, say, a 16'' circumference needle (this allows you to work continuously in the round, without dealing with Magic Loop or two circs, and without having to deal with tons of stitches. Getting the physical experience of working the process through will help clear up the confusion.
Brilliant idea. Thank you so much for responding
Oh good idea. Thank you. I will give that a try. Thank you for responding.
This is a game changer! I've been knitting forever and consider myself a very experienced knitter but have never used this technique before. Thank you for the great tutorial!
If I wasn't still learning something new every day, I'd probably wander away from knitting. :-)
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I have been looking for so long for a real jogless garter stitch in the round!
Thank you so much for this video Roxanne. I could knit pretty good, but until now I always had to base my knitting on someone else experience. To figure out the why and the how to fix it takes a good sense of observation and a lot of imagination. Not that I want to kick out the standard ways of knitting but it is obvious that the modest beginnings of this art did need to be improved😢😅. Some companions are helpful but they still aren’t the best life partnership. So let us be humble and recognize that the best life partnership is not always the first one met.
Hi, the 2 yarns used to cast on, are they from 2 balls of yarn? Would you have any written instructions on this technique?
Thank you, Roxanne! This seam in garter stitch knitting in the round has been a nuisance to me for a long time. I will try your method and see how it works out!!
I really appreciate the time you take and your wonderful explanations, so I can understand!!!
Happy 4th & Happy Knitting!
This is great, thank you so much.
Thank you so much for this! I have almost finished a top-down cards for myself (East Coast Girl by Vera Valimaki), the sleeves knit in the round with a garter stitch cuff. I scoured the internets for a solution to this jog issue, and found nothing. The best solution I could come up with myself was to purl one stitch down on the last stitch of the purl round (is that fisherman's rib?). It made a lovely stocking stitch line up the inside of the cuff that I quite liked, but next time, thanks to you I will,know what to do. Too easy!
Wonderful. Thank you so much for this. I’ve knitted quite a few hats in garter stitch in the round ( I love the Rikke hat pattern ) and they ALL have that seam. I never know if the recipient will know to wear the hat with the seam at the back of the head. Now, thanks to you, I know how how to avoid the problem altogether. One thing I’ve noticed is that you can work the round ( eg purl) right up to the stitch that holds the yarn for the next round. Just slip that first stitch ( the stitch holding the knit side yarn) snug it up tight and then keep working in knit stitch for the knit round. So I’m not clear as to why you instruct people to stop and slip 3 stitches before the next round. I’m finding that it’s not really necessary.
I think I mentioned in the video that there is nothing magic about the 3 sts. You can stop at any point, as long as you don't knit past the other strand. The problem many knitters have with knitting up to the point of the other yarn is that because it's not on the needle when you resume working with it, it's easy to pull the stitch too tight and create tension problems. If the stitch is still on the needle when you start knitting with that strand, you force the stitch to maintain its size.
Thank you, great technique💓
When knitting in the round, at the last stitch, pick up the first stitch, bind off the last stitch over the first stitch and pull the thread through and weave in. No jog and a much smoother finish.
Hi again - thank you for your advice; will be buying you a coffee in just a moment! I realise now that joining in this way isn't an issue but I did wonder why you purl the first round when usually to get garter stitch the first row would be a knit. Many thanks. G
Garter stitch done flat is *usually* done by knitting every row. That produces a row of purl on the opposite face of the fabric. The result is that with respect to one face of the fabric, you have a row of knits with a row of purls above it, a row of knits above that, etc., while on the other face, you have a row of purls with a row of knits above that, etc. (The ridges are offset) You can get garter stitch by knitting every row OR by purling every row. I used the long tail cast on, which creates an edge of twisted loops, which are immediately knit as each loop is created. On the back side of the fabric, the heads of the twisted loops appear as purl bumps. If I were knitting flat, I would turn the work after I cast on, and those purl bumps would be facing me, and I would knit across. When I use the LTCO in the round, I *don't* turn the work when I join in the round, so those purl bumps are on the WS of the work. In order to create the same garter stitch I would have had knitting flat, I need to purl that first round. If you use a CO which doesn't require you to turn the work to knit the first row but does require you to turn in order to join in the round, you *might* want to start with a round of knit. Ultimately, it's knitters choice. It's always worth swatching to see what happens when you wonder Why? or What if? It's the best way to really understand how knitting works.
If I want to change colors of yarn on the first row of the stockinette where would I join the new color? The second stitch of the stockinette round?
Not sure if you read comments regularly but where do the 2 strands come from? Is it 2 balls of yarn?
Or both ends of the same ball. Either works.
@@RoxanneRichardson Hi - thanks for the quick reply! Have another question - how do you join the first round?
This is the closest I've found to my search for jogless horizontal rib (i.e. knit two rows, purl two rows)
ok it seems to make it worse and I don't understand the purpose
Why does my first row never look like yours? I follow this every step but my first row always looks like stocking stitch...
Hello Roxanne, I’m braking my head on how to carry another color yarn up while purling in the round to the point where I need it? Thank you
I love making Checkerboard Slippers, My question is, can you do a video on this technique. My friends are asking me to teach them and I’m not the best in explaining. There is only a couple of videos out there, the best one is in French. It would be great to be able to watch and share in English. Would this be a consideration?
Thank you, ahead of time 🙋♀️🧶💓
It's unlikely I would choose to do a video like this, since it would be a tutorial on a specific project and my videos are aimed at techniques. You might try teaching your friends by having them watch the French video with you, while you supplement the instruction in English.
Thank you so much for your videos. I used to hate knitting until I decided to teach myself once and for all a few years ago by going online, and watching UA-cam videos (just like I did when I wanted to learn how to make friendship bracelets). I was shocked to find there was another way to hold the needles, and I now LOVE to knit. I even started teaching my daughter. I do have a question... I make a lot of hats, and I like a ribbed rim, sometimes folded over and knit together by either picking up each stitch, or doing a provisional cast on...
I really like the garter stitch, and made a very nice hat but have a seam.... **Is there a way to add a seamless garter after a 1 x1 or 2 x2 rib?
This was very helpful! I have only one issue: the slip stitches look like stockinette :( what am i doing wrong?
When you slip them, you aren't working them, so they will look the same as they did before you slipped them. Eventually, when they are worked, you will work them in whatever way is appropriate to maintain the garter stitch fabric: either as a knit or a purl.
This is ingenious! Thanks for showing us this!
Am I correct in my understanding that the change from K to P and vice versa is going to be multiples of 3 before the beginning of the round (where the marker is)? ie: rnd 1 is 3 stitches before, rnd 2 is 6, rnd 3 is 9, rnd 4 is 12, and so on until changing stitch pattern or binding off?
If you consistently stop 3 sts before, then, yes, but you can stop any number of sts before the other yarn. If you're working on dpns, you can leave the yarn hanging at the end of a dpn, and then just rotate the work to where the next yarn is hanging at the end of that dpn. There's nothing magic about 3 sts.
@@RoxanneRichardson I understand that; my query is this: is the 'drop off' point progressively moving to the right?
Well, yes, because you're always stopping 3 sts earlier than before. That's why the purl yarn was hanging half way around the round when I was ready to finish. Eventually, it will work its way back around to the start of the round, where the marker hangs.
Ok...Got it! Thanks for your patience with this old lady....
Blessings to you! ☺
fascinating thank you. Do I understand the principles well when I say, it s possible to work with one string and instead of alternating the yarns to lead the string behind the three slipped loops on the reverse site of the fabric ?
That's not how it works, unfortunately. There is nothing magic about 3 sts. You could space them 50 sts apart, or no stitches apart. The reason for the 3-stitch spacing is to avoid tension issues in the fabric when you switch strands. I would suggest trying out the technique on a swatch so that you can understand better how it works. You could then try out your idea, and then see what happens. It's the best way of learning more about how knitting works.
This example looks like you used two different balls of yarn, one for knits and one for purls. I have found the Zadie sweater and thought of trying it out and someone said that this technique that you demonstrate seems the best for the border. Also on Ravelry, it shows a woman who made the sweater but there is puckering in the breast area. What would be your recommendation to not have this happen? Thank you!
That is a great technique if you are starting with a garter stitch area but so often there are garter stitches in the middle of other patterns so there are not two yarns to work with. Also I recently did a top down tee with a garter stitch hem, so again there weren't 2 yarns to work with. Do you have any suggestions for these kinds of situations?
Hi Roxanne could you please help me with a jogless garter stitch decrease for a hat in the round
I love all your technique Tuesday videos! Have a learnt a lot from watching those. I am knitting a sweater that is knit in the round. There is a panel in the front of the sweater that I want to use colorwork using slipped stitches. How do I do that while still knitting in the round? My problem is that the contrast color will be at the end of the panel when I get back to the panel after knitting the round.
Sometimes, techniques are not compatible in the same project. Flat knitting is often the solution for working colorwork in a panel (as you would like to do), or in a situation like intarsia (colorblock) knitting.
You could use a technique like ladderback Jacquard to catch the yarn at the back of the work for the rest of the round, so that it is in the correct location for the following round, or you can work the project flat, or you can use a technique like the one used for "intarsia in the round," which still requires you to work back and forth, but links the start and end of the round together so that you can create a seamless tube.
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks for taking the time to answer in detail. I will lookup the ladder back jaccard technique.
Fascinating! This will be very useful for future projects. I’m currently working a sweater, in one piece, and the sleeves have garter cuffs. But I’m working from the top down. Should I join a strand to give me this ability?
That would be my approach!
Hi ROXANNE like you do on video do we need 2 ball of yarn please let me kwon thank you
Two balls or use both ends of one ball.
Hiya Roxanne! I've worked quite a few rows on a test piece for a cuff with this method, and though I've got the method down, I'm still confused by one detail. How is it that those three (or however many) stitches that are slipped do not somehow affect the length or the look of the piece? Slipping three stitches in the middle of each row seems like it would affect the overall result somehow. Am I just missing something obvious? Thanks for all you do!
Let's say you have 100 sts in a round, and you work sts 1-97, then slip the last three and work sts 1-94 with the second strand, then slip three. You are now at st 97, where you dropped the first strand. You pick it up and start where you left off, working sts 98, 99, 100 and then you work until you get to st 91, slip 3, and now you are at st 94, where you left the 2nd strand. Every stitch gets worked, eventually. You don't have to stop 3 sts short. You can stop 10 sts or 50 sts short and slip until you get to the waiting strand. You can even knit right up to the other strand (just don't go past it). I believe I mentioned in the video that the problem with knitting right up to the other strand is that it's difficult to manage the tension, so it's best to stop short. Three sts is close enough to where you left the last strand, but far enough not to affect the tension.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you, that helps!
Is there a way to knit a jogless single round of purls?
Probably the easiest way to do that would be to slip the first purl stitch on the following round, assuming you only had a single purl round to deal with. If the single purl round is repeated, I'd probably find a different jogless technique. Whether or not it's worth doing depends on what the purpose of the purl round is. If it's a turning round for a hem, it may not be noticeable enough to bother with a jogless technique.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you, it was just an idea, Im not working on anything particular. But Im already swatching to see what works Best. 😃
Great vid. I "get" it. Swatched and easy peasy. Question: I work lots of kid stuff with "stripes of texture" i.e. several rows of stocking then several of reverse stocking and the jog is obvious but I live with it. I understand this tech
nique is predicated on 2 strands and why it works. How do you hide the jog just switching from k to p in the round using 1 strand? You answered another question by saying there will always be a jog, so maybe I should accept it. Tried slipping 1 then lifting the changing stitch and that helps. Also I'm swatching this (garter) in multi colors and right now I have a LOT of yarn going on. Am I wasting my time?
There are various jogless jog techniques. I prefer using a technique for this situation where you work a full round in the new stitch pattern, remove your BOR marker, then work below into the first stitch (in whatever stitch that first stitch had been worked. This stitch now becomes the EOR. Replace the BOR marker. This moves the starting position of the round every time you change the stitch pattern. If the original BOR location is important for shaping, then you can maintain the original marker to denote that location, but use a second marker to note the location of the pattern change. I'll likely demonstrate this for next week's video.
@@RoxanneRichardson oh, good, I'll "watch n swatch"
end bind off info at 8:13
Hi Roxanne- amazing technique and very well explained . Thank you . I have a quick question, can you use this technique for two colors of yarn? I have a hat that has garter stitch pattern on the round with two colors alternating . I would love to hear back from you . Thank you so much ,
Assuming that each color is worked for two rounds, in order to make a complete garter ridge in each color, before switching to the other color, I think you could do it, but you'd have to use a more advanced method of helical knitting, which in stockinette, allows for 4 one-row stripes of color. Instead of 4 colors, all worked in stockinette, you'd have 2 strands of each of the 2 colors, with one strand used for the knit round, and one for the purl round. I don't have a video on how to do helical knitting with 4 strands, but I imagine there are numerous tutorials and videos on the topic.
Dear Roxanne - thank you so much for your prompt reply. I will look into that!
Great video, thanks for sharing! Would this same technique work with two color linen stitch to avoid a jog?
No idea. I would suggest trying it out on a swatch to find out.
Does using 2 strands for a helical garter stitch increase the amount of yarn - and if so, how much?
The way to find out is to do two swatches that have the same number of sts, worked for the same number of rounds, with one using a single strand, and the other using two strands.