Need 6' of space on both sides of the saw to calibrate. My workshop where my mitre saw lives is only 10' wide so 60" on each side. Hopefully Reekon will release a newer version that doesn't require 6' of space on either end.👍
So the accuracy of the Reekon seems to depend on the accuracy of the tape measure? Your tape measure doesnt have anything to do with English considering that in England we use both Metres and Feet depending on preference.
I’m wondering if this would work well when I have to cut alot of aluminum storefront excursions….. just wondering if the wheel would have anough traction.
Hola me acaba de llegar el producto y ilusionado de usarlo pero me estoy dando mortales en encenderlo y no lo consigo ya quiero tirarlo por la ventana haber si podéis ayudarme
Why bother with the blade kerf off set… just bump your material to the left side of the blade, then when setting the calibration, line it with the right side of the blade 🤷 Wouldn’t that work?
@@REEKONTools But if you start your calibration on the left side of the blade and end your calibration on the right side of the blade, the kerf is therefore automatically accounted for, so each cut would be correct without knowing the actual diameter of your kerf… •Additionally it would simplify the process and be more precise without the extra steps of figuring out your blade kerf and then programming it in
Why NOT just set the blade kerf offset? It takes literally 30 seconds and is good until you reset the M!. Then you don't have to remember allow for the blade kerf. I just set up mine with the factory-listed blade kerf (2.5mm for my Festook Kapex 120 fine cut blade) and cuts are precisely correct. I use a zero-clearance insert on my Kapex and just align the workpiece to the kerf line on the zero-clearance insert that the blade made, zero the M1, and the results are perfect. Very cool...
Inexpensive? $150 fir a jig that you can do without, is not inexpensive. An i Phobe costs $10.00 to make. They sell it for $1600... how much does this cost to make? And why sell for $150?
How about you start with where the batteries go!!! Jesus H Christmas! I’ve never witnessed a more difficult piece of equipment to deal with! There are no instructions in the box, and the website starts at calibration, not installation. Ugh. Customer service folks! Get it together.
This thing sucks. I’ve had it since the Kickstarter and have never been able to get a calibrated every time I do it’s off by the kerf of the blade, which doesn’t make sense because your calibrating it to the left side of the blade every time. DONT WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY
hey William, the kerf is entered separately from the calibration - support.reekon.tools/hc/en-us/articles/360061902152-Setting-the-Blade-Width-M1-Caliber
@@williamhsewardiv5742 Curious to know if you set the left side of the blade on beginning cut and then set it to right side of the blade on the end cut, would you get the correct lenght?
I live how repeatable this is. For someone who doesnt do a lot of cutting this would be perfect even for the once in a while jobs
really shines for repeat cuts!
Need 6' of space on both sides of the saw to calibrate. My workshop where my mitre saw lives is only 10' wide so 60" on each side. Hopefully Reekon will release a newer version that doesn't require 6' of space on either end.👍
same here too, 6 feet is ridiculous, they could have to for 1 - 3 ft max
just what we need, another gizmo to sloooooow us down...
Will not debris built up on the wheel cause an under measurement?
yes it would, usually not much sticks with a vacuum running and its easy to wipe off but if the diameter changed then that could cause inaccuracy
Do you have to calibrate every time you take it off the saw ?
So the accuracy of the Reekon seems to depend on the accuracy of the tape measure? Your tape measure doesnt have anything to do with English considering that in England we use both Metres and Feet depending on preference.
will this work with metal tubings ?
I’m wondering if this would work well when I have to cut alot of aluminum storefront excursions….. just wondering if the wheel would have anough traction.
yes! we have a lot of customers use for alumnium extrusions and it is even more accurate than with wood since aluminum is rarely warped
Hola me acaba de llegar el producto y ilusionado de usarlo pero me estoy dando mortales en encenderlo y no lo consigo ya quiero tirarlo por la ventana haber si podéis ayudarme
Can I install on the right side a saw ?
Yes! - support.reekon.tools/hc/en-us/articles/360057191471-Using-on-the-Right-Side-of-the-Saw-M1-Caliber
Porque es complicado de encenderlo de pinchar uno botón y luego otro vaya
Is there a discount code?
we're interested in your product, how to become your agent for selling them in China
So you decided to show the long complicated method to calibrate
material formula how calculate how find 2*4.1.5*3
Why bother with the blade kerf off set… just bump your material to the left side of the blade, then when setting the calibration, line it with the right side of the blade 🤷 Wouldn’t that work?
slower and less safe than just touching off of starting again with each cut
@@REEKONTools But if you start your calibration on the left side of the blade and end your calibration on the right side of the blade, the kerf is therefore automatically accounted for, so each cut would be correct without knowing the actual diameter of your kerf…
•Additionally it would simplify the process and be more precise without the extra steps of figuring out your blade kerf and then programming it in
Why NOT just set the blade kerf offset? It takes literally 30 seconds and is good until you reset the M!. Then you don't have to remember allow for the blade kerf. I just set up mine with the factory-listed blade kerf (2.5mm for my Festook Kapex 120 fine cut blade) and cuts are precisely correct. I use a zero-clearance insert on my Kapex and just align the workpiece to the kerf line on the zero-clearance insert that the blade made, zero the M1, and the results are perfect. Very cool...
It’s a great toy but ultimately not worth the expense. Better to buy a piece of ply and make your own stop block.
Bueno lo intento y sino se los devuelvo
Inexpensive? $150 fir a jig that you can do without, is not inexpensive. An i Phobe costs $10.00 to make. They sell it for $1600... how much does this cost to make? And why sell for $150?
How about you start with where the batteries go!!! Jesus H Christmas! I’ve never witnessed a more difficult piece of equipment to deal with! There are no instructions in the box, and the website starts at calibration, not installation. Ugh. Customer service folks! Get it together.
Hello, instructions are included in the front of the case - support.reekon.tools/hc/en-us/articles/360056183412-Quick-Start-Guide-Download-M1-Caliber
This thing sucks. I’ve had it since the Kickstarter and have never been able to get a calibrated every time I do it’s off by the kerf of the blade, which doesn’t make sense because your calibrating it to the left side of the blade every time.
DONT WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY
hey William, the kerf is entered separately from the calibration - support.reekon.tools/hc/en-us/articles/360061902152-Setting-the-Blade-Width-M1-Caliber
@@REEKONTools why would I have to do that when you calibrate it to the left side of the blade.
@@williamhsewardiv5742 Curious to know if you set the left side of the blade on beginning cut and then set it to right side of the blade on the end cut, would you get the correct lenght?
550$, дороговато.