VW 2.0 CU - Stuck Hydraulic Tappet, removal and fix. T25 Transporter Vanagon T3, Cam Follower Lifter
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- I had a stuck hydraulic tappet in my VW Type4 2.0 CU VW T25 Transporter engine. This is how I fixed it.
0:00 Intro
1:23 Remove Rocker
2:15 Remove Pushrods
2:35 Remove Pushrod Tubes
2:98 Remove Hydraulic Tappet
3:40 Deconstruct Hydraulic Tappet
4:55 Clean Hydraulic Tappet
6:50 Assemble Hydraulic Tappet
8:39 Refit Hydaulic Tappet
9:21 Refit Pushrod Tube
10:28 Refit Rocker Shaft
12:25 Torque Setting
13:04 Valve Adjustment
15:15 Refit Rocker Cover
Blue Hylomar
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I'd like to thank Eric Andrews for his advice.
Although I didn't find the answer I was looking for I found this website online and thought it was an excellent resource so wanted to share it with you:
ratwell.com/technical/Hydraul...
Hope this video helps :)
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Can't beat a bit of blue hylomar good for waterpump gaskets also
It's all I use as a sealant on engines. 😊👍
2:16 it’s supposed to be rock solid , because oil doesn’t compress . The one that (may ) be faulty is the one from the intake valve …. It could be also bled down due to time though
Hi. They were all firm but had a little 'give', that particular one was just solid. After cleaning and running it's now the same as the rest?
Quick question what if they’re all solid?
Really nice job!!
Thanks for the kind words! 😁👍
Great videos thanks
My pleasure tx for watching 😊👍
Procedure I've used rotor pointing to number 1 on Dis cap...set tappets for each cyl accordingly,set screw 2 turns after slight slack.Turning Crank pulley anti clock for next cyl loosened pulley Bolt .So continue clockwise to cyl on same cyl head side .
I've done a couple of vids on this procedure and I do exactly the same. Tx for watching :) PS: Sorry for the delay responding. A bunch of comments didn't show on my phone, wasnt till I logged into the PC I could see it! Weird!
@@PeoplesCar Yeah that happens I've found that pc shows more comments to posts.Reason I was adjusting valves engine compression on#2 low .Atm I'm doing a full respray .Engine needs out after thatand sorted +new clutch .Would you know where to source a/cooled thermostat 85 degree 2ltr engine ? Thanks & subbed😁
@@davidpatterson9107 Siunds like you have a lots 'fun' to come! 😅. No I'm not sure, is that not something you can still buy new, I haven't looked. I actually ran my CU without one and locked the flaps open with a small bracket on the top left of the engine. The cable had snapped on mine. I know this isn't ideal and long term will affect the longevity of the engine but never caused my any day to day problems. I personally thought the difference between open and closed on a CU was quite small unlike on a Bug but still not recommended and even had an engine builder tell me he can tell when one has been run without one. Best of luck 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar Thanks for replying used to be able to get thermostats at reasonable money USA not in demand enough they stopped bothering .If you're lucky to have a duff one they can be resurrected via a link which shows how to.👍👍
@@davidpatterson9107 NP I always try to 👍 I think they are bigger than bug ones... not 100%... but I remember thinking that when last held one. I wonder if woukd work all the same, somehow clamp the cable on top rather than the fixed bar. Probably not worth risking for an 'experiment' however unless you try stupid things like me and bug carb on a CU! 😅
Thank you for your helpful video.
What were the symptoms of your car before you pulled the engine and discovered the stuck exhaust lifter? Backfire? Stall? No start? Compression? Etc.?
Now that you have repaired the stuck lifter, does your car run normally? Thank you.
Tx bud. Tbh it was a 'new' engine and I was just checking everything before fired it up when I found that. They should be pretty stiff and not spongy once full of oil but that sucker was solid. I couldn't adjust the tappet at all. Now I've had it running I'm going to go back and recheck everything in warmer weather. The engine seems a down on power possibly compression and a valve issue though its hard to know as the carb is in need of some tlc too and I haven't had time to properly check either. Not too happy with this CU atm, turned out to need a load more jobs to do than I expected, but then that's the van full stop! LOL 🙂
I recently removed rocker assy on 3 & 4 (air cooled 2 litre) to try and fix oil leaks from pushrods tubes. I reassembled not knowing about resetting the hyraulic tappets at the time. Engine just wouldnt fire on 3 & 4 after reassembly. I then discovered reset process and carried out as per manual and what you've done here. I.e. just gently close gap and then 2 full turns in of the adjuster screw. However all this does is open the valves slightly and leave me with no compression! Looking at your video more closely, it is clear turning the adjuster lowers the position of the plunger in the huydraulic tappet rather than opens the valve so I have to assume that in my case the tappets are somehow locked or bottomed out. Do my conclusions sound correct?
The Tappets will often drain of oil when the engine has been stood for a while on the valves under load, why the engine can sound like marbles in a tin can for a while when first started. They will repressurise soon as get some oil round them and usually after warms up a bit. If you just follow the 2 turns in, and then get it fired up, the tappets should repressure and self adjust so your valves aren't open and losing compression.
If you have had the tappets apart like me the need prefilled with oil, I know a garage locally that jokes about assembling them submerged in a bowl of oil, I think he was joking!!? 😅
Update... I was just thinking about what you wrote and had a moment of clarity. So your tuning in 2 screws and it's solid so opening the valve rather than having a lack of oil pressure. This is similar to the problem I had and found one stuck. I have a full set from a CT which LOOK the same as a CU. I haven't compared side to side but if you can confirm so, happy to send you one if get stuck, forgive the pun.
@@PeoplesCar Thanks for your reply - really helpful. I'm thinking before I strip the valve gear off again to check the pushrods / tappets, I'll see if I can identify which tappets are solid and dont have any 'give'. Then I'll repeat the reset procedure but not wind in the adjuster on those that are solid. This might at least give me compression and allow the engine to fire and get the oil circulating. This in turn might pressurise the tappets - and free any stuck ones? I cant quite get my head around what would happen if the sticky tappets freed themselves but assume they would now be out of design range and get noisy - not sure! Then I'd run the engine for a while and redo the reset process again. If still no 'give' when adjusting then I'd have to assume those that are stuck will need removing - which looks like a nightmare with the engine in situ. I appreciate your offer of providing a replacement tappet. I'll do the above and let you know if I need one!
If you don't reset the valves correctly they may not open? On the tappet I had that was stuck you simply couldn't wind it in, was solid and opened the valve. So pretty obvious. They should actually be pretty solid if pressurised but you should be able to wind it the adjuster 2 turns without being totally solid. In theory they would leak some oil out and self adjust, if working correctly, it's kinda the point of them. Frustrating ain't it!
After stripping valve gear again and finding all tappets followers were solid I removed one. Turns out they're not hydraulic!! Engine is Pre 1979.
@@MrRhay900 Arg really. I didn't know they were ever solid on a type 4 sorry. Just needs gaps setting and you should be good 👍
If youre going to all that hassle why not just replace them with solid lifters? End of any more issues with future blocking.
Because I'm a tight arse! LOL I did consider it to be fair but wasn't sure if could just swap onto an undoubtedly already worn cam without causing additional wear issues and if had to replace the rockers and lifters. Maybe something for a future Vid 😀👍
What does a stuck tappit do to the engine? Would it make the engine sound noisy, would it draw in air , and make engine sound and run rough?. I have a problem with my 1.9 wbx twin Webber carb engine I can’t get to the bottom of
Its funny you should being this up as was just discussing it the other day and we couldn't come to a concensus on the outcome of a stuck Tappet and meant to look into it further. When fully pressurised the Tappet would hold the clearance at zero to the pushrod and keep the rest of the valve train 'tight. However I don't know what position within the Tappet the pushrod sits, so how far into the Tappet body if that makes sense. In my experience with mine the valve train was super tight, although when fully pressurised you would expect this anyway to some extent certainly when the engine is running. So the soft rockers on mine with a little movement just showed they were slightly depressurised and the valve not stuck, where as the solid one had pressurised and even with the engine off still solid. I was getting a lot of pops and farts back through the carb and exhaust and suspect this was the valves being slightly open due to that Tappet as wasn't able to adjust the tension out, but its hard to say for sure as had a garbage carb and an exhaust full of holes. I guess the way to test if your valves are open is move that cylinder to the compression stroke where the valves should both be closed and then use compressed air down the plug hole. If it comes out comes out exhaust or manfold you know there is a problem with the relevant valve. Tbh that's a lot of messing tho and probably just easier to replace if suspect is a fault. I have a set of CT ones you can have a couple of if are the same as for your engine. Look the same as CU but don't know if are the same or not so would have to chedk and obviously are used so a bit worn. Noisy tappets are usual for a while especially when the van has been stood but should quieten down after a few minutes of running. I believe somebody set mine like you would on a bug however with a 6 tho gap rather than a couple of turns in and that sounded like marbles in a tin! LOL.
Problem is there are so many reason I can run rough and I would suggest timing and carb issues more likely than a Tappet problem. For reference my new 1.9 wbx sounded like a bag of shite, just listen to it in my latest video, I reset the valve 'gap' last week and its vastly improved it but still not perfect, but as least now doesn't sound like something is about to fall out the bottom of the engine. I've actually done another video on setting the tappets on the 1.9 wbx due out about 6 weeks but it's pretty much the same as the one i did for the CT a year or 2 ago. Only thing I would change is using fingers to feel the biting point on the rocker foot rather than a screw driver. It's just easier to feel. Hip something there might be of help. Best of luck 😊👍
@@PeoplesCar well thanks for that!!!
I’ve had twin carbs for about a year, a month ago it just lost power and the engine was noisy . I tightened everything as per your video, set the carb floats to the correct height with a gauge put in a mechanical pump, changed all of the fuel lines , new filter, new plugs, leads, checked timing and distributor, flamethrower coil, all fine . Did a compressive test, all came out at around 145, brake servo fine. Starts ok on the drive, idles fine, go on the road, coughs and farts, no power. Put down the pedal, backfires, still no power. So… I’m hoping the valve (s) is stuck.I don’t know what else to try or how to test for anything else.
I’m stumped
@@stephenhornigold3993 So compression test OK, no need to check if a valves open then. Might be worth checking you don't have any leaks in the vac lines for the dizzy stopping it advancing properly. This was something I found on mine last week and ran so much better with new rubber ends on the pipes. It sounds very similar to the prob I had with my 32/36 progressive and I believe that was a blockage in the main jet/circuit but tbh I never tried to sort it just swapped the carb and was better instantly. Best of luck 😊👍
@@stephenhornigold3993 You could try posting on Volkszone forum. They will ask you a bunch of questions and tell you about bunch of things to try, but some of the guys on there are so much more knowledgeable than me and my primative brain 😅. Collective think-tank and all that 👍
@@PeoplesCar great, thanks for all of your help, I’ll keep watching 👍
Dont you have to adjust the tapets to 00.6 ?
Not for hydraulic tappets they are self adjusting once set 🙂👍
@@PeoplesCar What is the proper setting?
Thanks
@@vanhuss9239 if you jump to the valve setting timestamp on the bottom of the video I go through the adjustment.
For hydraulic tappets according to the manuals you make contact to take out any free play and then 2 turns. Many do 1 1/2 turns as it can tighten slightly over time.
I go through the full procedure including getting the engine to TDC on compression stroke in this video ua-cam.com/video/Pjjndd7qrEM/v-deo.html
This was on my old 1600 CT which is also hydraulic tappets but it's pretty much the same. I would use fingers to close the gap rather than a screwdriver as I did in this vid tho, it's more accurate. Good lucks 🙂👍
How can I contact you regarding a valve question.
Ask away I'll help if I can. 🙂
Can the lifters drain of all the oil and leave a large clearance between the valve and the rocker arm ?
Yes I believe this is fairly common on these engines when been stood a while. The Tappet/s under load will leak its oil, so when the engine is started it sounds like a .... and to quote a friend here.... skeleton having a wa*k in a metal cupboard! 😅. Takes a little while to represureise hence often sound tappety when started for the first time in a while. Important to make sure the oil level in the engine hasn't dropped too far, and I was once told an oil change can help this but can't confirm that's true first hand.
I've never had or heard of one permanently fail in the way ypu suggest but not saying its not possible. I did have a CT I bought and pretty sure the previous owner gapped the rockers like would on a none hydraulic bug motor which I guess is an easy mistake given its similar design, so something to watch out for if its new to you and all seem loose despite having time to repressurise. Best of luck and thanks for watching 😊👍