How to test with the Hanna Alkalinity dKH Checker | BRStv How-To
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- In today's episode of BRStv How-to, Randy shows us how to use the Hanna Instruments Alkalinity Checker! This thing provides you with an accurate reading of your reef tank's alkalinity levels in seconds!
Try out your Hanna Alkalinity Checker here!
www.bulkreefsup...
Today on BRStv, we continue a series that shows you how to properly install, setup and tune the reefing products you are considering or currently using. Our goal is to get beyond the bullet points on the packaging and show you what all this gear, additives and systems are all about!
Tired of reading color changes when trying to get an accurate test of your tank's alkalinity? Today Randy shows you how to use the Hanna Alkalinity Checker and also provides some quick tips and tricks for you to get the best test every time you use your Checker!
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For a thorough "How to" you really should have described that using the extended attachment for the syringe and aligning to the bottom of the plunger, no matter where the reagent ends up in the tube, to the 1.0 line is crucial. I only mention it because thats where I messed up when I first used the checker. But I do appreciate these videos. Great job.
Exactly. That’s what I was watching this for. Until I read your comment I had no idea how to do this.
yeah really dude left out the most important part. amateur hour
Just be careful to buy the right one! BRS sells 2 Hanna Alkalinity checkers, one gives dKh, and one gives ppm, where you have to do an (admittedly easy) math conversion. I was so excited to get the checker that I didn't notice, and ordered the wrong one. Still love it, just wish I would have gotten the dKh one.
A few of my personal tips for consistent accurate readings.
I bought a digital pipette from Amazon that lets me dial from 1ml to 10ml. I think this is the best way to get not only accuracy but consistency on your Hanna and other tests. This way even if you're not on the exact 10ml line you will always be consistently off it so the readings should be more consistent day to day.
I also clean the vial prior to usage with a glasses cloth and handle it only with the cloth. I dont clean it again between C1 and C2 since any dirt that was there originally will have been taken into account on the C1 reading and could affect the C2 reading if it has now been cleaned off.
I also make sure that the 10ml on the vial is always at the front to once again keep consistency in the refraction of the internal light and any residual dirt on the vial.
Maybe a bit of overkill but I get very consistent readings and its easy when you have a specific system.
My favorite test because Hanna makes it so easy. Love my Hanna checkers!
Could you guys do a video on proper acclimation for us new to the hobby? Things like how to inspect the fish/coral when it arrives, doing a proper drip (can show off your accudrip or other gadgets), freshwater dip, and what to watch for when your new pet is in the tank so you know they're doing okay.
Thanks for all the helpful videos!
The water in the cuvette should be added until the bottom of the little bubble(meniscus) is at the line. Not the top of the water. Confirmed with Hanna.
I don’t understand
@@mariellamcroberts7613 I think the bubble on the rubber tip inside the syringe. The water should be drawn to the til not where the sides meet the line. Then again I could be completely wrong 😂
Muito bom! Rápido pratico! Essa coisa de ficar olhando cores é coisa do passado.
I love mine!
Same it's so easy
The funny thing about this, my two refill kits arrived at the door that I ordered Monday when I got notified about this video. Is BRS watching me?!? Lol
love that thing!
A few years ago they had a nasty issue. Ive heard it's corrected. I hope so cause I loved using it, but have been hesitant.
Is there an even quicker digital alkalinity checker or probe that doesn't require reagents? You know, kind of like a ph digital meter or the Milwakee salinity checker. Something I can just dip in the water or put a few drops of tank water in it, push a button and get an instant result without the use of chemicals.
Riight! Seems if they can do that with saliniy and ph they could with these! Maybe they can but just want to keep selling regents!
Bought mine months ago. Wish I had years ago.
Is the second glass cuvett just a spare
Any need to 0 it with RODI after several uses?
How about showing the most important step, filling the syringe.
Od like to see how one tests for GH in a freshwater aquarium with the checkers.
The name isnt bulk fresh water supply...
Hello BRS which two Hanna checkers do you think are most important when starting a reef tank. I’m guessing alkalinity and nitrate? Or should I do alkalinity and calcium since I do frequent water changes
Ultimately, you'll want to have some way of measuring all of those parameters. As far as Hanna checkers go, we like to use the Alkalinity checker, Phosphate ULR, and Nitrate HR checkers most frequently. Alkalinity for sure 🙂
Dear BRS
Does it required regular calibration?
If yes, how often?
Thanks
Lots of questions here! Can you explain why sometimes the checker takes longer to go from ON to C1 or C1 to C2 or C2 to Reading? Sometimes it takes what seems like milliseconds, sometimes 30 seconds? I am very deligent with making sure the glass is clean and also mixed well. Oh yea whats that nasty stuff that floats around? New bottle, old bottle, kept upright, kept on side, plastic removed, not removed, ive heard all those rumors. For me it seems to always show up! Does it change our readings? If we let it float to the bottom will it change the readings? Does it make our test solution more concentrated, less? Does it mean we shouldnt use the solution?
Hi, BRS! Do you attempt to remove the air and bubbles inside the syringe after filling up the syringe with water?
Do you find the Hanna dKH checker more consistently accurate than Red Sea or Salifert? I currently use Red Sea and always second guess myself if I should add another drop or two. Thanks.
I have a question about this checkers accuracy. when I tested with my hanna all dkh checker I get a reading of 6.2. but when I check with my salifert kit I get a reading of 7.3. which one is correct?! how is it possible to be so far off? I tested multiple times to see if there was any variations and there were none. I don't know which one to believe! Help me BRStv... you're our only hope.
BulkReefSupplyCom thanks for the super fast reply you guys are awesome
@@PsyWARAquariums Did you ever figure out which was right? I used to use red sea but got one of these and hadnt used red sea for a while. Just getting ready to dose tank because hanna has me at 6.8 and tested with red sea and it has me at 8.5! carzy difference. I get a big air bubble at the top alot with the type of syringe they use the one that has a pointed tip hanging down past the end of the stopper so I try real hard and have to pull up on the regent several time to not get such a bubble. Maybe I should just leave the bubble there. I have no idea If I need to dose or not!
@@karennation3580 what I’ve learned over the years is that stability is WAY more important than numbers when it come to coral (as long as your numbers are not extremely low or extremely high). Pick a kit you like and stick with it. I know that’s a non-answer.
how to convert from ppm to dKH?
I noticed that using the 1ml syringe w/o the extension that drawing the reagent into the syringe that you have to pull the rubber
end above the 1ml mark to get 1ml of fluid . Doesn't seem right. And when I use the extension it will not add all the of the reagent. Some always stays in the tip.
Whether you use the tip or not, draw the plunger all the way up the syringe stopping where the rubber plunger is at the last mark, past 0.1. At this point you have 1ml. The dluid does not need to fill the syringe or reach the line. You have to consider the volume of liquid in the syringe before the fluid reaches the first mark, I.e. - within the tip of the syringe.
@@tampareefer6029 Dont the hanna checker syringes have the rubber tip that hangs down? That would be subtrating the regent that is in the tip. If you know what I mean. I dont understand how come some syringes have that tip and some dont. One the larger syringes like 10 ml they have a roundish part hanging down so I assume that is subtracting some fluid because of the fluid that is remaining in the tip. I am just really confused. I changed some of my syringes because the ink was no longer readable and not sure which origally came with what type of syringe! I mean 1 ml should be 1 ml no matter what syringe you use but they are not all equal. I have to remember to always use the same syringe to pull out tank water because i get differnt amounts for 10 ml ect. I just checked my hanna against red sea and hanna is reading way lower than red sea like over 1.5 points and now I dont know if I even need to dose! I am from Tampa by the way! Born and raised in Seminole heights. Now live in Lutz!
What is number for it's inside tank.. I have Redsea 170 34galler.. can you help out sir Thanks...
When checking DKH in the effluent drip of a calcium reactor reefers are looking for 25 to 30 DKH , but the Hanna checker max reading is 20 DKH , I am assuming one would need to dilute the sample , so i was hoping you could touch base on this or add any recommendations to test effluent in calcium reactor.
You're exactly right. we typically will dilute the sample by half with RO water. If your effluent is greater than 40 dKH, you'll have to dilute further.
@@BRStv Yes , i had new two fishes Reborn media in the reactor, that stuff is fantastic , was using the Hanna checker to check DKH in effluent drip , it was so high that i thought something was wrong , had to dilute sample i used only 2ml effluent and 8 mil RO water , the reading was 39.2 DKH in effluent , i knew it was OK because the PH in effluent was 6.6 , So i was able to leave the CO2 bubble count alone and raise the drip rate to raise ALK in tank as needed , i believe it no more than one full point a week , Yes ?
OK, so what's the #2 most vital Hanna checker. So we have the Alk, what's #2?
Phosphate or Phosphorus is my vote! -Randy
@@BRStv You guys dont have a best phospate checker video! Wish you did. I keep spending money on test kits I dont like. I went with you liking the salifert Nitrate when I should have went with ryan on the nyo's! sorry..still love ya Randy! I hate the side viewing part of the sailfert nitrate! I just bought this and havnt used it yet but My 10 ml syring dosnt match the line, but I will fill to line but I am worried the syringe that has the pointed piece on the end of the plunger is going to throw it off because I bought those type of syringes before to use with my redsea since the regents were taking off lettering and it didnt match up to the same ml as the ones that come with it that dont have the pointed tip on the plunger. what are you using to measure the 1 ml in this video?
Anyone knows the formulation of this alkalinity reagent?
What's the correct alkalinity?
Generally speaking, we've seen successful tanks anywhere in the 7 to 12 dKH range. We typically recommend 9 dKH so that there is some wiggle room up or down for testing error or potential mistakes.
Imagine reagents used to be 8 bucks.
Now they're double literally😢
cool who knew the Hannah's checkered even simpler than I thought wow so cool hey do you guys know about Watch Dogs 2 or anyone you guys are gamers I heard that game is pretty cool I wonder if one of you guys heard of it or play it?#I know that have nothing to do with refrain this just say gamer asking some reefer which does play games too.
@snake guy entertainments yea what he tried to say!
Brandon Reidy cool I got some laundry for homies here but I'm also eating food yet I plan on doing the Hobby in the future but very good against still young and loving my parents
Do u have to calibrate these over time ?
yeah, it's a cheap little kit
Please!!!! Help I don't get it. My Hanna Phosphate reads 4 on the ppb model what does this mean. I'm so confused. Asap please! Thanks guys
BulkReefSupplyCom sonwhat should I get it down to?? 2 or 1 ppb ? Or what ppb is acceptable ??
Js UA-cam you do not want 0 phosphates as your coral will die. .03 is the range recommended. Your Po4 is fine.
Kevin Dewey no way Po4 is ppm 0.0012ppm that's way to high. Like he said 1-2 should be acceptable 👍🏼
Can i use hi772 checker with hi755 regeant?somebody please help answer my question please
The reagent for the HI772 or HI755 are interchangeable, so this will not be an issue.
But sir..before i do waterchange i test my kh with 722 reagent...the reading is arround 8.5..after i do wc, i use 755 regeant and the reading is 11.3..i use hanna 722 kh checker
I'm pretty sure this is not faster than an ordinary Salifert testkit and MUCH more expensive.
Ouch I bet you your hands hurt like Crazy when you put them in that salt water your poor hands Tingle tingle tingle
I have ZERO faith I'm doing this right. The syringe has 1.0 at the tip. If I suck in the fluid I barely get any in when it hits the 1.0 mark. The amount of reagent isn't right, the rest of the numbers won't be right either.
This is totally normal. As long as the plunger is at the 1.0 ml mark, there will be 1.0 ml of reagent in the tip of the syringe
Too much water in the vial? Just dump it back in? This could prove disastrous with certain test kits. :-( Not the best practice there.
I argee... the reagents should never be in contact with your water and dont use your syringe that comes with for both this can cross contaminate. a pharmacy should carry some syringes that should suffice or order one from brs when you purchase your checker
"if you clean your vial well". "Well" being a word that needs defined here. Most hobbyist may see no ill effects from doing this, but most hobbyist wouldn't clean the vial in what I would define as "well". Different kits have varying levels of warnings on their different reagents. Some of them are horribly unhealthy to us and we can handle a lot more than our corals.
Really, as Randy already said, it isn't wise to add water to the vial because you then have to carefully clean the saltwater off the outside so it doesn't mess with the optical readings. We are just stating there are numerous reasons not to dip the vial into the tank.