Installing stub guards on 488 Haybine
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2021
- In this video I discuss how to install and properly adjust stub cuts for the sickle bar of your mower conditioner haybine. In this case, my machine is a New Holland 488. I bought my guards and hold downs from Shoup Manufacturing as they're much cheaper than New Holland parts. There are three specific New Holland parts you will need though--the special guards at each end (one short and long long guard), and then the single hold dow clip at the far right side of the sickle bar. I get New Holland parts from Messicks. They have good parts diagrams too that tell you exactly how much of each component is needed, as well as bolt lengths.
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I have a 489 with stub guards . Just learned a lot from your video . Thanks so much.
There's a special bracket that you bolt to that nut in the tube. It's a bend 1/4" rod that bolts to the welded nut and gives through the bushing of the 9' knife.
that is what I use today is a 488. fantastic machine! it's been under a roof all it's life. 0 rust paint is supreme. One day in near future the haybine will have to go.
Moving to discbine?
@@TheScientistHayFarmer No. That would be a good up grade. My making hay days are done.
Very helpful!
Lucky you. I went to my local NH dealer here in France and he could not even get sections for my 447 haybine but 5 that I had to grind to make them fit the sickle bar... Could not get the rear glass for my td85 NH tractor. I am a little reluctant to buy a used 650 NH round baler cause I guess he won't find parts for it if needed lol.
Nice video. One thing I noticed though is your carriage bolts are upside down - the nut goes on the bottom (against the guard), not on top on the hold downs. That's why the hold downs have square holes. That's also why it's also important to use the correct length carriage bolt - so the threads don't project too far past the nut.
They are correct as installed. The nut goes on the top and this is what the parts diagram shows as well. If the nut were on the bottom the shoulder of the bolt would have to go down through the shims as well, which, depending on how many shims required, may not allow the bolt head to fully seat against the hold down because the shoulder is bottomed out.
The bolt head goes on the bottom against the guard and there is a deep square recess in the guard for the shoulder and head to fit into. This allows the smooth surface against the ground. It also allows for easier shimming and hold down adjustment. Otherwise you’d have to remove the entire guard and everything just to add more shims.
If your machine has the nuts on the bottom then it is not set up correctly.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer interesting, because the parts diagram for my haybine shows the carriage bolt head on top. Different models, I suppose.
Nice video. Quick question. I just picked up a 488 and it was missing the sickle bar bearing. I put the new one in, but I’m not sure how tight the bolt should be that connects it to the drive arm on the wobble box. Any tips?
I assume you mean a new knife head bushing for the sickle bar? Tighten it to 90 ft-lb. I think it is a 3/4” socket you will need.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer thats right, knife head bushing. thanks.
I have some other videos on the 488 too if you’re new to it or haybines. One of them is how to hook it up and run it.
Neet looking stub guards haven't seen them before just the long pointy ones basically like what you have at the very ends but set for its the whole head. P,s do they still make that type of guards? Again haven't seen them types just the long pointy ones. Sure some people may say "sickle bar haybines sucks, disbines are faster" reality check "yeah that may be true until you hit something but couldn't stop in time". P,s I think sickle bar type of haybines should still be for use, keeps the legacy,/ history going behind them, sides sickle bar and sickle bar haybines been going on since the end of days of corn knifes and hay scythes to cut hay. But 1 question if one of them guards accidentally breaks can you be able to put a long type guard on if needed? Other than that good video thanks for explaining.
Both standard guards and stub guards are readily available. Standard guards can be picked up anywhere like TSC but stubs are less common and need to be ordered through somebody like Shoup Mfg or Webb's Sickle Service or God forbid, New Holland.
I would guess you probably could replace a stub with a standard in a pinch...I can't think of why not. But it would take a lot to break a guard. Installing these stubs is the best time, money, and upgrade I've ever put into any of my machines.
Good morning. What is the Shoup part number for your stub guard’s? I am thinking my 477 will take the same guard as your 488, just not as many. Thank you
Yes, the 477 will be the same guard. It is SH250 at Shoup.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer thank you
Very good info here. I just purchased a NH472 with stub guards. Mine has a bolt knife sections just like yours. But all the hold downs are the high ones. I see on yours only the first 3 are high ones. I am having a problem with the grass getting all packed under those guards and in between the sections. My dealer has said that the regular guards will not work with the bolt on sections. But?? This thing is obviously not cutting correctly. Can you help me please??
I was just going to say with high guards on all of them you will get a lot of grass packed in there.
You need to get the low (standard) stub hold downs. They will clear the bolt down sections but just barely. Mine are aftermarket from Shoup Manufacturing. They are much cheaper than the New Holland ones.
Your knives are also probably not properly adjusted to the guard either if you’re getting a lot of hay underneath them. You need to remove some shims from the hold down to get it a little tighter but should still be able to wiggle the section back and forth with your finger. I showed how to do all of this in the video.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer Thank you so much for the quick response. Yes....I saw the wiggle. I think all of my guards only have 1 shim. This is actually a brand new machine...yet a 2015. Never was sold off the dealer lot and I found it at an auction. I also don't think the rolls are adjusted and I am little confused with them. There is alot of banging when mowing thick hay...that upper roller is banging like when a plug goes thru. I think the tension is all the way tight....and the manual describes making 8 turns for most conditions. Any thoughts with this??
Your rolls are too tight. When a big slug goes through it presses against a lot of spring pressure holding the rolls together and then they snap back together when the slug clears. This will damage your rollers. Loosen them. I talk about this on my video “Here’s how Haybines work.”
@@TheScientistHayFarmer Seemed that the rolls were all the way tight. So I loosened them by 8 turns which is a number the book states. But the way it is worded it described actually tightening 8 turns for most crop conditions...but?? Anyway...Mowed about 5 acres yesterday and no more banging. I picked up a regular hold down from NH to check it out. Will need at least another shim or 2 for good section clearance and it will also help with clearing the bolts. Everything is on order. Hoping when all done that the cut improves. While it doesn't plug or wad up like with regular guards-the cut so far is sub standard. Lots of tearing-I think from the knife getting so congested...also the whole shelf of the knife doesn't clear into the rolls?? I have a pic of what it looks like when I am done if there is anyway to upload?? (I don't remember this happening with my other machines) Thank you so much for helping me. I pick the brains of all the old guys around here and nobody every used stubbies...we have major geological obstructions in the this area. The dealers haven't sold a haybine in 20 years...so their advise is to buy a discbine. Yeah! where do I sign?? Gonna have to sell me a bigger tractor too
@@tarasullivan9650 you will still have a lot of grass left on the shelf of the knife once you’re done. This needs to be cleaned off well after each cutting so it doesn’t rust and rot. It’s possible your reel is shimmed up too high and needs some shims removed to lower it.
I’m confused about your knife situation. You said you needed to add more shims. That implies there’s not enough shims on there now which would make the hold down too tight on the knife when you’re cutting.
Based on what you’re describing (a ragged cut) you don’t have your sections shimmed correctly. You should see almost no gap between the bottom of the knife and top of the guard ledger surface. If you can see a gap there it will not cut. You need to remove a shim.
You can buy shims at Shoup as well. They have several sizes. Get both. I also made my own shims out of metal flashing that are ultra thin for doing the super fine adjusting.
Again the section needs to ride right along top of the guard. If it’s not it won’t cut. Think of it like a pair of scissors that have a gap between them. Sickle knives work exactly like scissors.
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