Thank you, the only advantage I know of the newer cutters is you can go faster. But my pastures are smaller and rutted enough that I couldn't go any faster anyway.
I used this haybine for years !!! I bought it and found that the spacers were still between the rolls when it was shipped. About 1/4 inch worth of spacers. They were suppose to be removed and only used for cutting oats. If you still have the spacers in....your still......basically cutting with a sickle mower. No crimping. Seen 8 haybines sold at local auctions. They all still had the spacers in. Poor farmers didnt even know.......they still had a sickle mower !!!! If you put a sheet of paper between the rolls you should not be able to pull it out. And put full pressure on the rolls by using the cranks behind the reel. Most Ive seen are rusted solid and the farmers never knew what they were for.....or they would have used them !
@@middleacres3616 Yes..... most haybines were shipped with 1/4 inch worth of spacers between each end of the rolls. Later they bolted the spacers along side the frame next to the rolls. Often they are rusted in ! Might need to heat with a touch to get them out. Dealer told farmers that the rolls should not touch........but by far its more important to have the rolls timed right. The hay protects the rolls from wearing......but if you run the haybine empty for say.....10 minutes they might get a bit warm. That dont hurt them . I ran mine tight together for year.....never had any issues.
At least you have the header weight adjusted near perfect. The spring above the wheel / tire nearest the wobble box must always be tighter because of the extra weight of the wobble box .....most times that spring must be as tight as possible...depending if you still have the shoes under the header. They add an extra 30 pounds. No need for the shoes....pick up rocks and trap gophers ...( if you have them ) . A sickle always cuts better close to the ground.....instead of 4 inches off the ground. The plant is more stiff the closer to the ground. It just snaps off.
@@middleacres3616 Agreed.......but the header dont float properly......because of the added weight it dont allow enough spring adjustment to allow the head to float. And with out the shoes......its cuts even nicer !
It feeds the cut grass through a set of rollers that smashes it. This lets it dry faster supposedly by a day. With a tight weather window, saving a day is great. It also uses way less horsepower compared to a brush hog or a disc mower because the actual cutting mechanism is a sickle bar.
Man, that thing has had an easy life. It looks mint!
Thanks it was kept under cover the last few years. Not sure before that.
Schön das du die alte Landtechnik noch nutzt und pflegt. Ein sehr schön Video
Grüße aus Germany
Thank you, the only advantage I know of the newer cutters is you can go faster. But my pastures are smaller and rutted enough that I couldn't go any faster anyway.
I used this haybine for years !!! I bought it and found that the spacers were still between the rolls when it was shipped. About 1/4 inch worth of spacers. They were suppose to be removed and only used for cutting oats. If you still have the spacers in....your still......basically cutting with a sickle mower. No crimping. Seen 8 haybines sold at local auctions. They all still had the spacers in. Poor farmers didnt even know.......they still had a sickle mower !!!! If you put a sheet of paper between the rolls you should not be able to pull it out. And put full pressure on the rolls by using the cranks behind the reel. Most Ive seen are rusted solid and the farmers never knew what they were for.....or they would have used them !
Thanks for the tip I'll check it out.
@@middleacres3616 Yes..... most haybines were shipped with 1/4 inch worth of spacers between each end of the rolls. Later they bolted the spacers along side the frame next to the rolls. Often they are rusted in ! Might need to heat with a touch to get them out. Dealer told farmers that the rolls should not touch........but by far its more important to have the rolls timed right. The hay protects the rolls from wearing......but if you run the haybine empty for say.....10 minutes they might get a bit warm. That dont hurt them . I ran mine tight together for year.....never had any issues.
At least you have the header weight adjusted near perfect. The spring above the wheel / tire nearest the wobble box must always be tighter because of the extra weight of the wobble box .....most times that spring must be as tight as possible...depending if you still have the shoes under the header. They add an extra 30 pounds. No need for the shoes....pick up rocks and trap gophers ...( if you have them ) . A sickle always cuts better close to the ground.....instead of 4 inches off the ground. The plant is more stiff the closer to the ground. It just snaps off.
I keep the shoes tucked into their closest setting. It cuts extremely short.
@@middleacres3616 Agreed.......but the header dont float properly......because of the added weight it dont allow enough spring adjustment to allow the head to float. And with out the shoes......its cuts even nicer !
Always wipe off those fittings before greasing. Less chance of putting more dirt and grime into the bearings.
You missed a lot of zerks on that machine a zerk is another name for grease fitting pto universal joints and all the reel bat support bushings
Wobble box, reel support bushings, pulley shaft, and U joints. Got it!
Interesting bit of kit, what's the difference between using this over a more conventional grass mower?
It feeds the cut grass through a set of rollers that smashes it. This lets it dry faster supposedly by a day. With a tight weather window, saving a day is great. It also uses way less horsepower compared to a brush hog or a disc mower because the actual cutting mechanism is a sickle bar.
is it even mowing the grass?
Yes it mows very well down to about 2 inches.
lol