Building a CNC Mill/Router - Part 1

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  • @THusbands
    @THusbands Рік тому +434

    Great job Tom.
    You'll probably want to use a dial indicator to tram the linear rails to each other.
    Also fill any none moving parts with sand to reduce vibration and chatter.

    • @kylewarren69
      @kylewarren69 Рік тому +35

      ideally also checking the rails against a straight reference as well as making them parallel. linear rails are not very straight

    • @sam8551
      @sam8551 Рік тому +8

      Came here to say the same thing. Yall beat me to it. Have a good night yall.

    • @NiclasGudmundsson
      @NiclasGudmundsson Рік тому +13

      No you should use a dial indicator from 1 of the rails to you bed so that you get that one rail aligned to the bed, then you mount the Z axis and the second rail that will be aligned automatically to each other. Start by tightening the screws in one end of the second rail and tighten them as you move the Z axis along the way.

    • @NiclasGudmundsson
      @NiclasGudmundsson Рік тому +8

      @@kylewarren69if you buy real rails from let's say Bosch rexroth or hiwin they are pretty straight. The Chinese ones are pretty much not straight.

    • @JamieBainbridge
      @JamieBainbridge Рік тому +14

      His name is Tim. No relation to Tom.

  • @dnomyarg32
    @dnomyarg32 Рік тому +345

    I'm working on a similar project, and what I've found is that our muscles are unreliable at assessing stiffness of structures meant for CNC machines. A frame that "feels" rigid can still flex by amounts many times greater than the tolerances we wish to hold. I've run many FEA analysis on my machine and keep having to add stiffness to reach my goals. One of the beauties of T-slot extrusion is it's easy to add rigidity by strategically adding members. A downside is it's not generally the most cost effective path to adding rigidity.

    • @foldionepapyrus3441
      @foldionepapyrus3441 Рік тому +13

      Indeed, though the chunky stuff like this is big enough to have a central core you can fill in epoxy granite type mixes for some small gain, but any gains are good. Though the slots themselves are not the best either...
      Still not how I'd build a CNC given a choice - as I might not be good at it but I can weld well enough to get by and big boxy thickwall tubes are going to be much better than these extrusions...Though I am somewhat tempted by an extrusion based thing coming as a cheap kit - something to get me working subtractive CNC quickly and should be good enough to bootstrap itself into a better machine if required.

    • @humbucker0076
      @humbucker0076 Рік тому +11

      These extrusions are generally quite light compared to i.e steel tubes the same size and even those don't have enough mass to dampen vibration.
      I mean it also depends on how hard you gonna push it and what material.
      One of my biggest doubts about these designs is using the thread holes in the ends of the extrusions. As the aluminium is quite soft the threads often wear out with a lot of vibration and forces. So the extrusions themselves might be rigid, but the joints maybe don't last long and for a CNC they need to be precise.
      Maybe using gusset plates if possible would be a good option and use the slots to connect. They might loosen too, but you can tighten those joints back up.

    • @Narwaro
      @Narwaro Рік тому +17

      For all intents and purposes once you start getting into the micron turf you notice that everything is made out of rubber. Even a Deckel FP4 is rubber if you pull at it with your hand and look at it with precise enough measuring tools.

    • @AzaB2C
      @AzaB2C Рік тому +4

      Folks on a budget should consider V1E LowRider 3, the entire gantry goes up/down, so you get relatively rigid cuts for thin stock. Personally built a 4 foot x 8 foot CNC and Sled for $900...

    • @daylen577
      @daylen577 Рік тому

      If you're only worried about Y-axis wobble, some diagonal supports from the gantry mount to the edges of the bed could do wonders. Pretty cheap, can either be under compression or under tension and it'll work. People often do that with 3D printers with this design, obviously with much cheaper/smaller supports than would be needed here, but the theory does scale up

  • @P10101G
    @P10101G Рік тому +155

    Make sure your rails are perfectly parallel and level when you do the final assembly. Your end unit should glide more freely than that. I had the same issue when I built mine.

    • @justintime9699
      @justintime9699 Рік тому +14

      Yes!!! It should slide almost from one end to the other by just a little push!!!

    • @blakelambert5643
      @blakelambert5643 Рік тому +9

      Agree. You can use the z axis plate to set the height end to end. Fully tighten one tail, loosely tighten the other. Then tighten screws a bit at a time using the z axis plate the pitch.

    • @MarkFunderburk
      @MarkFunderburk Рік тому +8

      Yeah I'm kind of concerned he hasn't made any mention of that so far and he doesn't seem to be accounting for how much variance there is in the flatness / thickness of AL plate stock since he isn't milling the faces of those parts...
      Machines like the Avid CNC go through a lot of extra engineering to make a useable machine with T-slot extrusion...

    • @justinc2633
      @justinc2633 4 місяці тому

      ​@@blakelambert5643 what difference does it actually make? with or without doing this you'll still be moving in a linear axis, and doing this wont ensure you're completely square with the other axes

  • @StormBurnX
    @StormBurnX Рік тому +26

    I love that we're in the era of CNC machines that we used to be in with 3D printers. I remember the old days of plywood and other makeshift designs that users themselves would build, coming up with machines from scratch with little or no help from plans/etc online. Just a community of makers truly making. Nowadays we are seeing a similar renaissance-of-sorts but with CNC machines instead of FDM printers. A great journey to follow along with!

    • @darkmann12
      @darkmann12 Рік тому +1

      Well, really, we've come back to that in the 3D printing scene. Behind the glitz and glamour of the latest Bambu, and after the generic I3 ubiquity, there is a diehard custom built community that is going hard pushing limits of speed, acceleration and flow. A re-renaissance if you will!

    • @cy-one
      @cy-one Рік тому +4

      @@darkmann12 And I'm all for it to see what will happen to the consumer/prosumer-market once the big names (like Bambu) adapt what the diehard custom scene comes up with.
      Like, the X1C just wouldn't even exist without the likes of Voron and co.

  • @dariodalcin5177
    @dariodalcin5177 Рік тому +40

    I'm building one myself currently so here's a few tips:
    I had the luck to find some really heavy steel tubes at the scarpyard to build the machine base. They need to be scraped/sanded by hand to provide flat surfaces to mount the linear rails. So do aluminum extrusions, the can easily have a 0.05 to 0.1mm bow over a 1m length.
    You also need to make sure the surfaces you mount the rails to are not skewed on top of being individually straight, you can do this with a machinist's level (it's not that hard to improvise one).
    As someone else already mentioned you need to tram your rails: you can do this by tightening only one of them and using the sliding assembly to set the second one at the correct distance.
    A lot of stuff on a cnc machine is overconstained: unless you have a bigger machine already, it's really hard to have everything fitting together perfecly, then when you tighten the screws everything warps... Sometimes you can get around this by epoxying stuff together: just let it sit however it wants to sit when it's drying, you can add fasteners later on.
    It's also a good idea to epoxy everything you don't plan to disassemble for added stiffness, especially when you have a lot of contact surface area between parts
    Remember to fill will sand all tubes

    • @lyrag6376
      @lyrag6376 Рік тому +4

      Check out Marco Reps's "300 kg Steel CNC Machine" for some specifics on linear rail mounting

    • @ikbendusan
      @ikbendusan 11 місяців тому +3

      @@lyrag6376 just look at the hiwin assembly instructions instead. the formulas for calculating the tolerances of the mounting/reference surfaces are all in there

  • @uwepelz
    @uwepelz Рік тому +7

    Pro Tip: you actually don't have to slide the nuts in from the side 😊. Their shape and the ball detent on the back allow them to be added anywhere on the track just by pushing them in sideways and then rotating them INSIDE the slot by 90°. This works perfect for the original item system - I assume it will be the same for other extrusion brands.
    The more you know. Love your content!

    • @omega_one1318
      @omega_one1318 Рік тому +1

      I think he knows this already. You can see him do it at 5:17 . It took me way to long to realise though, so it's a great tip for sure!

  • @Keeneyes4utube
    @Keeneyes4utube Рік тому +89

    I am skeptical of that ball screw placement. Ideally you'd want to position it in a location that wouldn't create torque on the gantry, which in a non-loaded situation would be in-between the two linear rails. You could also position it on the underside of the carriage in a spot that would oppose the torquing force produced during cutting.

    • @dekutree64
      @dekutree64 Рік тому +9

      Between the rails is best. Chinese ball screws have excellent low backlash for the price, but are not quite concentric. The pushing and pulling on the floating end of that aluminum plate will likely cause a slight tilting of the spindle in the Y direction on each revolution.

    • @ERomeo
      @ERomeo Рік тому +4

      I have this exact problem on my diy machine. That torque created on the gantry translates into the end mill falling a little behind the movement. This gets worse with time and it wears the linear bearings a lot faster.

    • @orionsswords
      @orionsswords Рік тому +2

      I had the same thought.

  • @gymkhanadog
    @gymkhanadog Рік тому +2

    Woo! Nice! You'll want to definitely gusset, locktite and tram EVERYTHING. Explore adding pebble or some other aggregate epoxy mix to the structure to add rigidity and dampen vibration. And nothing is overkill in a project like this!

  • @NainKaigo
    @NainKaigo Рік тому +5

    I am not sure if this has already been suggested, but filling the extrusion with epoxy granite or a mix of sand and epoxy would add a considerable amount of mass. This would help with resonance and keep things from shaking around as much. The vibrations from milling metal can be significant. I have an MR-1 CNC machine which is of a similar design. It weighs about 1000lb and still shakes around when milling.

  • @DadofScience
    @DadofScience Рік тому +6

    I need this sort of inspiration like a hole in the head which just goes to show what an awesome project this is.
    For anyone looking to build something like this I cannot recommend your local fasterners supplier strongly enough. You'll get bulk quality bolts and nuts (and piles of other handy consumables and what not) for a decent price and know what you're getting each and every time. Cheaper then you'd expect too!

  • @BryanHoward
    @BryanHoward Рік тому +8

    Great video Tim! Looks like you're already getting bombarded with suggestions in the comment section. Everyone becomes an expert in this topic 😅. It's a great learning experience building a CNC and someone such as yourself will get lots of use out of it.

  • @elluisito000
    @elluisito000 Рік тому +2

    This brings back memories of when I built mine like 15 years ago. Good times. Thanks for sharing. 😊

  • @Birannator94
    @Birannator94 Рік тому

    Hey Tom, awesome build! I think your frame will out live all of humanity :)
    I work as an engineer for an automation company and we produce off the shelf axes that are also used for CNC applications. These enclosed axes offer a lot of rigidity by themselves and have internal guiding so they save you the hassle of having to align your guides. Added bonus is that these axes also enclose the spindle and thereby provide protection from chips and coolant (both tend to cause issues over time when they come in contact with the spindle). We also have servo's and what not to power everything. Feel free to contact me if you want to chat about your project!

  •  Рік тому +1

    I use aluminium extrusions in a somewhat off-label way, as the frame structure for arcade stick-style game controllers (laser-cut panels go on the top and the bottom to complete the enclosure). This video was super validating in showing how tricky it often is to think through the order of operations for assembly.

  • @philvale5724
    @philvale5724 Рік тому +1

    Hi 👋, that looks very impressive, and a few months time I’m hoping to build myself a router flattening table, keep up the great work. Look forward to seeing it all up and running.,

  • @Brentonlangaigne_93
    @Brentonlangaigne_93 Рік тому

    Awesome build Tom!! I'd love to see you build a life size 3d printer and print something huge with it. Maybe.... a car!!

  • @nickizzett1896
    @nickizzett1896 Рік тому +4

    Hi Tom,
    Great project, look forward to seeing the next update.
    With the rails, they might be over constrained as they are hence the slightly stiff movement. If you slacken the screws on one rail slightly, only enough so that the rail can move if pushed but not by itself (i.e. it's not loose) then slide the carriage back and forth a few times and then tighten the screws back up. You might have to repeat with the other rail. Sometimes it's just enough to allow the rail to move to where it needs to be. I have used this technique on 3D printers a couple of times and it seems to work

  • @skysurferuk
    @skysurferuk Рік тому +4

    Another awesome series, looking forward to the conclusion. I'm thinking of a mill, at around £1500. That would buy s lot of extrusion, methinks... 🤣
    Get better, mate.👍

  • @austiwawa
    @austiwawa Рік тому

    Nice work, Tom!

  • @JBLewis
    @JBLewis Рік тому +24

    As I'm sure you've figured out by now, the trick with those linear rails is to pass the bolts through each hole, and start the Tee-nut onto the bolt, then slide the whole assembly onto the 8020 bar.

    • @ErtsenPlayGames
      @ErtsenPlayGames Рік тому +3

      this is more like 80160, not 8020 😅 and on top of that looks like heavy duty version with thicker walls😅

    • @oliverer3
      @oliverer3 Рік тому

      ​@@ErtsenPlayGamesI think it's 80160

    • @ErtsenPlayGames
      @ErtsenPlayGames Рік тому

      @@oliverer3 a yes my bad
      its 4080 legs
      8080 Y axis bed
      80160 X mounts to Y frame
      80160 X axis

    • @JBLewis
      @JBLewis Рік тому +1

      It's all generically "8020” , at least around here.

  • @MickEMaus3000
    @MickEMaus3000 Рік тому +13

    One technique for mounting linear rails is to tighten just the top rail (preferably against a straight edge) and loosen the bolts on the bearings and other rail. Then tighten the bolts on the bearing blocks that attach to that fixed rail. Next, tighten the bolts on one of the lower bearing blocks; that will set the distance between the two rails. While moving the carriage side to side to hold the two rails at the set distance apart, tighten the bolts on the second rail. And finally, tighten the second lower bearing block.

  • @cheffress
    @cheffress Рік тому +10

    Degrease and regrease the linear rails to make them a LOT smoother. Often the stuff that comes in them aren’t great and also if there are any missing balls you can add some more. It makes a big difference to how smooth they move.

  • @mosheswisa
    @mosheswisa Рік тому

    Cant wait to see how this rolls. And get the garage warmer, don't get sick for us haha

  • @mahmga1
    @mahmga1 Рік тому +5

    Definitely need to get those rails centered / parallel / trammed

  • @ZenderStuzer
    @ZenderStuzer Рік тому

    Looks interesting! I used similar size rails and carriages to build a sliding door for my bathroom so the gap between the door and the wall is minimal. I don't see anything overengineered in this video. Looks good to me.

  • @MySkullzDented
    @MySkullzDented Рік тому +4

    That frame is absolutely overkill, and i love it❤

  • @AM-jw1lo
    @AM-jw1lo Рік тому

    Interesting project. Will be interested to see how this turns out.

  • @AzaB2C
    @AzaB2C Рік тому +1

    Nice $turdy machine! Having a CNC + 3D Printer makes so many projects possible. Built a mostly 3D printed CNC, awesome value, v1e lowrider 3. Look forward to seeing projects Tom makes with this thing.

  • @mattc4203
    @mattc4203 Рік тому

    This is beautiful construction. I have currently made a basic design with al extrusions from an old project that I want to make into a router sled for wood flattening. Definitely got good tips from this

  • @nerdboy19
    @nerdboy19 6 місяців тому

    We neeeeeed the next video now Tim, we cant wait! :D

  • @bogmaerke
    @bogmaerke Рік тому

    Definitely can't wait to hear about the horrible journey of setting rails up parallel to each other and parallel to the work surface. Best of luck to you 😄

    • @bogmaerke
      @bogmaerke Рік тому

      Also the lead screw doesn't move the axis, it moves the gantry 👌 which rides along the [x] axis.

    • @bogmaerke
      @bogmaerke Рік тому

      Also the lead screw needs to be parallel to your gantry back plate 😮 F...

  • @davers1610
    @davers1610 Рік тому

    Another great video. I would be tempted to try and link as many of the central bores of the extrusion together and fill them with either concrete or ideally epoxy granite. Should bind it all together and do some vibration damping. Could also throw some rebar in to add even more rigidity.

  • @333donutboy
    @333donutboy Рік тому

    Very nice. I'm looking forward to the whole build series. Maybe the next build could be a high power laser cutter.

  • @Domse65
    @Domse65 Рік тому

    Really cool project, love that the structure is so overkill. I would even suggest bringing this to the main channel aswell

  • @karellen00
    @karellen00 Рік тому +8

    I think a good idea would be loosening one of the two rails, tighten down the plate to both rails, and then tightening down the second rail while moving across the whole length to ensure that they are absolutely parallel

  • @harambeexpress
    @harambeexpress Рік тому

    Haven't even watched this yet - just letting you know that I'm going to watch this entire series.

  • @MidnightMaker
    @MidnightMaker Рік тому

    This is a really nice design. I'd really love to see plans, BOM, etc. when you get a chance.

  • @TechGorilla1987
    @TechGorilla1987 Рік тому

    I took me far too long of looking at the face then the name for this all to make sense. I am now subbed to the second channel I never knew existed.

  • @bacon.cheesecake
    @bacon.cheesecake Рік тому

    Noticed you using a torx driver for hex screws, pro gamer move right there.

  • @Arek_R.
    @Arek_R. Рік тому

    0:50 good stuff this is one of the strongest way of joining those aluminium profiles, and also requires the least amount of fixings, there you used two screws, next worse thing would be using those angle brackets, two of them, each has two screws and two t nuts, that adds to 10 parts!

  • @boltonky
    @boltonky Рік тому

    Projects are always fun and hope it works out :)
    I have considered building one but i know the work it takes as my engineer friend has built and used multiple over the years also a company here in NZ "Zealandia Systems" with public support has decided they are going to do a more hobby based one which for the price and support is will be well worth buying.

  • @TimothyGraupmann
    @TimothyGraupmann Рік тому

    LOL I saw your other channel the other day and I was like I'm sure he's name is Tom. I thought I was having a moment.

  • @alanrichardson7244
    @alanrichardson7244 Рік тому

    I admire your ingenuity 👍

  • @mortenmoulder
    @mortenmoulder Рік тому +1

    The good thing about using linear rails compared to rods or wheels, is that if you have any kind of imperfection, that imperfection will be the same every single time. That's great for reliability, because you can modify designs compared to the physical end result.

  • @JohnSevern-k4g
    @JohnSevern-k4g 11 місяців тому

    Hi Tom, I really enjoyed this project and wondered if you plan to list parts measurements and where to get list? Great project as always, keep up the good work!.

  • @1471SirFrederickBanbury
    @1471SirFrederickBanbury Рік тому

    For the rails (and really all of the other moving parts), Castrol Hyspin e4, or another good spindle oil will keep the friction to a incredible minimum while maintaining a super thin film layer. Its not a cure all, but its something that always helps out a little.

  • @MawoDuffer
    @MawoDuffer Рік тому

    That’s going to be so satisfying to indicate in square

  • @Firefox991gaming
    @Firefox991gaming Рік тому

    I can't wait for part 2!

  • @BitBanger41
    @BitBanger41 Рік тому

    Watch out for that swarf whipping around as you're drilling out those holes! That stuff can be sharp!

  • @SantaDragon
    @SantaDragon 11 місяців тому

    Haha, you are as far as me after one year starting with the DIY CNC xD

  • @b5a5m5
    @b5a5m5 Рік тому +1

    10:20 this is a pretty minute detail, but did you wait to fully tighten your linear rails until the plate that constrains the two together are on? If you assemble it in a certain way you can make those two linear rails extremely close to parallel. I'd do this by locking down the top two carriages to the plate and the top rail to the cross beam. Then a somewhat snug attachment of one bottom carriage with one screw, make sure the bottom rail is loose, then move the plate along the top rail, tightening up the bottom rail as you go, ensuring that there's basically equal distance between every point on the top and bottom rail.

  • @aterxter3437
    @aterxter3437 Рік тому

    Instead of tightening through a hole, I would insted consider having the screw's head on the other side of the extrusion, which would leave space for a proper tightening tool, like at least an L shape clicking screwdriver, or a dynamometric wrench. Also adding beams in diagonal stiffens a lot the structure, it's not only visual, as a twisting deflection for a beam, is a compressing one for an other.
    I made a project were two boards (10cm wide each) needed to be linked perfectly parallel to one another, just 3d printing and cross bars using wooden food picks used fo skewers did the trick (though, I needed to glue them with epoxy at their ends). I didn't stand on it to prove the point, but it could easily withstand at least 40N with minor deflection, with just 16 bars made of wooden skewers

  • @PowerScissor
    @PowerScissor Рік тому

    I look very much forward to your 2026 CNC is finished video.

  • @turbo_brian
    @turbo_brian Рік тому

    The x axis will probably travel better if you true up the linear rails to each other. I imagine you can find methods online, but I would lightly tighten the rails to the gantry and tap them with a lighter mallet until the movement is smoother. You could measure the ends to see which way the taper is and be more precise, but with precise bearings like that bringing them in can make a huge difference. I'm surprised they moved at all to be honest.

  • @Ther2000
    @Ther2000 Рік тому

    Tip, look up epoxy granite. A lot of People fill up the cavities of the extrusions by pouring in an epoxy granite mix. Adding mass is a quick way of reduce a lot of vibrations. For the rest great work as always.

  • @whateverthisis3255
    @whateverthisis3255 6 місяців тому +1

    What a move. Letting your old mill build his succesor

  • @VulpeculaJoy
    @VulpeculaJoy Рік тому

    You should look into ISO 7379 screws if you need minimal tolerances. Also use washers whenever possible.

  • @wafflecart
    @wafflecart Рік тому

    that's an ABSOLUTE beast!

  • @stvcolwill
    @stvcolwill Рік тому

    Outstanding. this is a great series!

  • @giantman261
    @giantman261 Рік тому

    Nice looking build. One thing I think may be a bit more rigid is putting a plate on the outside of the gantry uprights and the side rails to tie them together, possibly a bit more rigid.

  • @indigenous.rabbit2877
    @indigenous.rabbit2877 Рік тому

    Nice machine, you could fill the tubes with epoxy Granite to dampen vibrations by quite a lot for if you ever wanted to mill ferrous metals with it.

  • @NickM20985
    @NickM20985 Рік тому +1

    hahahaa Tom, leaving that Sneeze in 14:06 was genius! Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🍻

  • @newha84
    @newha84 Рік тому

    Love your videos mate, keep it up :)

  • @tylerstilwell1218
    @tylerstilwell1218 Рік тому

    Love your videos Time Stator ❤

  • @ancien_pauvre
    @ancien_pauvre Рік тому

    This, my friend, is perfect timing (i had the idea yesterday)

  • @kenmagalnik6596
    @kenmagalnik6596 Рік тому

    Check out minitec extrusion system. They have this funky fastener that you put into the end of the beam, but tighten from the front rather than the back. So you can loosen it and slide it over when you need to, without having to have new holes thru which to tighten the fastener.

  • @michaellundgren6949
    @michaellundgren6949 Рік тому

    I knew I was subbed to your main channel. I was wondering why I wasn't subscribed anymore. I didn't realize this was your 2nd channel.

  • @arminth
    @arminth Рік тому

    Nice project! Get well soon!

  • @fstshft
    @fstshft Рік тому

    For the linear rails you can put the bolts and the T Slot nuts in advance, don't tighten them, slide all of them together on the extrusion, once you have 3-4 in the rest just slide in with ease and then tighten them in place. Saves a lot of fiddling trying to get the nuts in place once the rail is on.

  • @MrJofArnold
    @MrJofArnold Рік тому

    A lot of DIY CNC enthusiasts use expanding grout to fill the extrusions to stiffen and dampen them. There's some great videos on it.

  • @soniclab-cnc
    @soniclab-cnc Рік тому

    You’ll want to tighten the top rail first. With all the bearings in nice and tight. Then move the Z-plate side to side tightening the second rail as you go. Then the rails should line up and be nice and smooth. Looks like you will end up with a solid little machine.

  • @avocadoarms358
    @avocadoarms358 Рік тому

    How did I have to wait for UA-cam to recommend your second channel, been subbed to the main for a minute

  • @philip_fletcher
    @philip_fletcher Рік тому

    Ooo, I do like a CNC build video! This would be the style of my next build. If you're using LinuxCNC, take a look at the Manualmatic MPG/pendant and coming soon.... a MostlyPrintedProbe for setting offsets.

  • @jeffreymoffitt4070
    @jeffreymoffitt4070 Рік тому

    You could triangulate the uprights on the x axis with plate steel to add rigidity! And even add tool holders to it!

  • @1kreature
    @1kreature Рік тому

    I found when making my cnc that it doesn't matter if your gantry is rigid if your bed moves...
    Total area available is also less with a bed slinger or it takes up a lot of space in front and behind the machine as well as makes areas of the bed less rigid than others.

  • @jim_mai
    @jim_mai Рік тому

    You need a dial gauge to mount the linear rails parallel to each other. That should remove the binding and let them run more freely.

  • @tamgaming9861
    @tamgaming9861 Рік тому +2

    A 45° metal triangle instead the backplate at 5:52 would safe you lot of money and would give you way more stability. There is no need for a double backplate, just a minimum 45°.angle to give it stability so that it can lead the forces to the ground. /|\ just so 🙂

    • @warmesuppe
      @warmesuppe 21 день тому

      That's also what i was thinking

  • @tcoots
    @tcoots 11 місяців тому

    Man I love your Videos, my kind of projects.
    Have you considered anti-vibration attachments like what you might see on a compound bow? you could attach something in some of the unused slots maybe? I think the sand might have done better without the epoxy too

  • @mobzi2644
    @mobzi2644 Рік тому

    6:58 I find the easiest way to install a linear rail is to premount the screws and nut on the rail, and just sliding it in. Cheers !

  • @AIAllar
    @AIAllar Рік тому

    I'm pretty sure those rails require lubrication. Check for a threaded hole on either side of the sliding module. And there should be a lubrication channel visible on both upper and lower parts of those rails.

  • @MitchPleune
    @MitchPleune Рік тому

    Bolting even thin aluminum sheets up against the unused sections of extrusion can help a lot with increasing stiffness if needed

  • @flubba86
    @flubba86 Рік тому +1

    The linear rails should glide much more easily than that. You will need to make sure the two rails are dead parallel, to get the bearings to work properly.

  • @dnomyarg32
    @dnomyarg32 Рік тому +2

    I should add that rigidity can easily be tested with a calibrated load like a fish scale or hoist scale, and a dial indicator, either to avoid FEA, or to validate it. Simply apply a test load at a relevant location and measure its influence at another equally relevant location to high accuracy. If you are unhappy with the result, bolt on more extrusions.

  • @oOWaschBaerOo
    @oOWaschBaerOo Рік тому

    that way of attatching the extrusions is called Blind joint attatchment btw, its also used in alot of corexy 3d printers 👍

  • @xyzspec82
    @xyzspec82 Рік тому

    Looks like a good build. Subscribed and will follow it 😬

  • @saxonvandervest2351
    @saxonvandervest2351 Рік тому

    I work with aluminum extrusion at work a lot, and I have to say that method of mounting them together is not ideal. We used to do it that way with button head screws, but what we found is overtime the part slowly moves down the slot. Then when you try and disassemble, your hole to access the screw doesn’t line up and it causes a whole world of problems. I would recommend sending a screw all the way through the clearance hole instead

  • @iopfarmer
    @iopfarmer Рік тому

    we need some affordable 5 axis desktop milling machine. under the 1.5k$. This router seams sturdy, but I think you may improve the stability by multiplying the bolts at the attachment of the gantry. 4/side seams really shallow compared to the strong profiles.

  • @spatchist
    @spatchist Рік тому

    Overkill is underrated.

  • @yss2685
    @yss2685 Рік тому +2

    None of those extrusions are straight by the nature of how they are produced. You will notice that there will be height and spacing differences along the extrusion. As you tighten linear rails on uneven extrusion surface, they will bend along the surface. You have to figure out better ways to get straight surfaces out of them. There are companies that machine the extrusions to 1 mil tolerance along a 48 inch length. Get ready to buy a precision shim kit, because you will need it. Ball screws and linear rails will bind if they are not parallel to each other.

  • @lolcec81
    @lolcec81 Рік тому

    Удачи в сборке станка

  • @dav1dbone
    @dav1dbone Рік тому

    Friday night's highlight, thumbs up!

  • @boredgrass
    @boredgrass Рік тому

    Love the thumbnail!

  • @benmcreynolds8581
    @benmcreynolds8581 Рік тому

    The thumbnail made me think you might be bringing back that Head Transplant experiment 🗣️ lol jk This is a cool build design. These metal bars are so useful for a wide range of things.

  • @maxbursell3513
    @maxbursell3513 Рік тому

    Hi. You should only tighten the rails down after efter plate has been mounted to the bearing blocks, while the rails sits in the bearings. And you should cheke the parallelity with a dial indicator.
    The x-axis should run more smooth when doing this.
    Bur nice video

  • @MikeyMystery45
    @MikeyMystery45 5 місяців тому

    I feel like maybe your machine has it's weight up high and might cause it to wobble. I feel like if you could bolt the whole frame down onto the floor solid it would make the whole thing rock solid. Maybe even anchor it to a wall if the floor is concrete and you don't want to use concrete anchors or something. Looks like a nice setup from what I can tell. Looks expensive.

  • @taham6757
    @taham6757 Рік тому

    nice video!! mmm i would like to see more videos about 3d printed airplane wings if possible

  • @Basement_CNC
    @Basement_CNC Рік тому

    really cool project, im in the process of building a cnc as well, but a 5-AXIS ONE ,since ive run quite fast into the limits (that are a reasonable amount of work) and since there is nothing on the market (yes i k the pocket NC , but its not good) but hope it turns out as i hope, and yes it will end up on github

  • @Leadvest
    @Leadvest Рік тому

    I like your sweater!

  • @cadbuildflyrc3784
    @cadbuildflyrc3784 Рік тому

    I need to build one someday.

  • @Satelitko
    @Satelitko Рік тому

    I wonder if you can get more rigidity/dampening out of the frame if you fill the inside of the extrusions with fine sand or something.