Pool professional here, don’t feel bad, I called Hayward support and was on the phone for 2 hours waiting to talk to someone and finally I just hung up. I’m in SoCal and everyone that I know dreads calling them
Thank you for your video. It's become clear that I don't just have a pool heater problem, I have a Hayward problem. My first Hayward pool heater died at 18 months. They installed a new HDP 400 in Feb. 2022 under warranty. Two weeks later, the ignitor switch went bad. Nine months later, the ignitor switch has gone bad again. To obtain a switch under warranty, I must have a Hayward certified tech do the work. I've call all of them within a 50 mile radius, they either no longer do Hayward warranty work or don't service my area. I am paying a reliable pool maintenance tech to replace the $100 part (because labor isn't covered under their warranty any way). I am resigned to paying to have this part replaced every 9-12 months at my own expense. What I've learned, if you buy Hayward products the warranty is illusory. I will never ever buy Hayward pool products again. Never.
Thats truly incredible. When you buy an expensive name brand heater you don't expect problem after problem. And the fact that you need to pay labor adds insult to injury. We all know labor is often more costly than the part. Thanks for commenting
Hey Sam, thanks for the video, as a pool professional I found your experience with Hayward interesting and I have to say in many ways we're frustrated with them as well. They are however the 800 pound gorilla in our area for pool equipment and we still sell some Hayward products simply because it's easy to get parts. Had some crazy situations with other companies where critical parts from our suppliers were back-ordered for months! I'd also like to add that even though we get support I often find fixes for elusive problems by going right to youtube and seeing if someone else had the problem. Definitely sucks they wouldn't talk to you at all but I can also say you're far from the typical home-owner and obviously a capable guy. We see so many dangerous janky fixes in part I understand why manufacturers only talk to pros. With that said, to be a residential pool guy there is NO certification or training required like that of a plumber or electrician so it can be a mixed bag when you hire someone. Having owned a business and worked on pools for over 35 years I can say one thing, they definitely don't make them like they used to. I remember when pool support gear lasted 20-30 years, now we're seeing a 3-5 year cycle for pumps and filters with sometimes brand new out of the box things leaking! Last year I had to warranty 4 multiports, brand new leaking out of the waste port when running on filter.
Interesting comment. Thanks for sharing your experiences with them. I totally understand why their “policy” might be not to help consumers troubleshoot, and I would hate to think a company’s reputation can go down the drain based upon the poor judgement of one phone agent, but that may be what happened here. After this video got so,e traction, (and after I replaced the board), a couple of Hayward representatives actually reached out to me and asked me to contact them- which I didn’t do. You’ve been in this for years, so I’m sure you know exactly how to make a proper repair. But what about the guy who buys a truck, puts an ad in the local paper and has ten accounts? That guy may have no idea what he is doing, so for Hayward to make a blanket statement that they won’t troubleshoot with me, but will with him is downright foolish. I fix all of my own dental equipment, including some fairly complicated X-ray machines I have. I’ve had to call the manufacturer’s support on multiple occasions, and I’ve never been blown off the way I was by the phone rep at Hayward. I was pissed, and that’s why I made the vid. Yes, I still use so,e Hayward equipment, but when my heater finally fails I’ll think long and hard before I buy another. Sorry about the long response. Thanks again for your comment.
Thank you for sharing your experience with the spa heater, I had a similar experience with Hayward. After having the control board and circuit board replaced for 450 dollars by a technician I had the same error codes 1 month after the 1 year warranty period ended. I called the technician guy back and he said Hayward wont replace them free. I called Hayward and demanded to speak to the rep in central Florida, I told him I would never buy another Hayward product again. They replaced the circuit board at no cost to me. My technician is a con artist though and got pissed at me for going over him and complaining. The technician tried to sell me the control board also. I just repaired the ignightor wires that were chewed by mice. Thanks to your video I did it myself. Saving another hundred bucks!!
Glad my video helped. You think the tech was going to get the part from Hayward for no charge, and then charge you for it? Crazy. Ive found the only way not to get ripped is to do what you can yourself. Everyone is entitled to make a living, but i hate to be pushed into something new if something older can be fixed. Its worth the gamble most of the time.
“Your technician” is a con artist because he wasn’t going to give you a free board?? Your a con artist for expecting them to do free work. Btw, the igniter wire has a certain resistance that if broken needs to be replaced not fixed otherwise it’s a fire hazard.
@@dutchvanderlin5556 Agreed. The technician doesn't cover the warranty. Hayward covers the warranty. It's not the tech's fault that Hayward shit broke lol
Thanks for sharing the video. Didn’t have same issue as you. But, I’m so grateful for sharing the Hayward Diagnostic manual. It’s a great reference manual. Better than the one included with the heater. Helped out a lot. I was able to fix our Hayward Heater. It’s up and running again.
Thanks for the comment. I learned a long time ago to try to get the service manual.(not the owners manual) for any piece of equipment I own. As time goes on they become more difficult to obtain. When I started my dental practice I was paying $200/hr for a service tech to come out and fix stuff. How? He'd call the manufacturer support line and say "hi this is Joe from bigdentalcompany- I need to troubleshoot your xray machine" and they would spoon feed the guy info it was impossible for me to get as a non tech. Now I don't buy anything if they won't give me the service manual so I can fix it myself.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to check my Hayward H400. It's only been used about 10 times in 5 years, but it broke for no apparent reason. It's not just the harsh weather in New York; we have the same issues here in Florida. The problem is poor quality due to production in countries like China. The circuit boards in these newer outdoor devices, whether it's HVAC or other similar equipment, aren't built to withstand the elements. It feels like manufacturers just don't care. Honestly, they're all the same; none of the vendors are reliable.
Thanks for this video, exact same issue on my heater. Replaced the igniter first but that made no difference. Then found this video and bit the bullet on a new control board, and it fired right up! For us here in California we are suppose to use the 'Ultra Low Nox" PCBA, which I could only find for $1,100!!!! it is the exact same board layout, as the standard PCBA which is I found for $400. I chose the less expense one, and it is working flawlessly. Not sure what could possibly be the difference between the boards, maybe something in the firmware. Now I am just waiting for the California Environmental Police to show up and arrest me!!! Anyway, thanks again for sharing your experience, it helped!!!
Awesome educational heater tips,, thank you!!!Your pool & día design is beautiful surrounded by an enchanting awesome forest. Lucky you !!! Greetings from Palm Sorings , California.
Great video I am having the same problem with the exact same heater going to order the igniter and go thru same process I am very grateful to have found your awesome video
@@ericwebber68 definitively was amazon. Let me check to see if any particular vendor......edit. okay just looked at my amazon account. The control board, ignitor, as well as my replacement of the belzel and keypad and display board were all sold by amazon directly (amazon.com services llp) not a third party. Hope that helps
Yep I had the same problem, they would not give me the service manuals, after having a less than friendly conversation with Hayward and explaining to them that first I cannot even get a service person to come to check it out, second, once I found someone they wanted $250 just to come out.. They did send me the service manuals. The first problem was the control board for the panel, that was a $900 part.. Then was the control board and display board for the heater. That was tks to mice that had built a nest and chewed at the wiring. I fixed it all myself, was easy, did not require a so-called service tech. basic tools, philips screwdriver and a volt-ohm meter.
Its incredible how many openings there are in something that sits outside. Rodents get into mine every year. No matter what i do. They seem to like the sides where the flow switch sits. Thanks for commenting
Good job. I have a Hayward heater that has been nothing but problems from day one. I did have an issue where the mouse mice ate some wires. They were all replaced by a technician. No matter how much money I throw into this piece of junk Never works when you want to work i.e. when you have guests over. New England winters destroy these machines. They’re not designed for this climate. The company should make a more secure an element resistant unit for the north east and northern areas. Just saying. One final word. Given the new solid state circuitry and electronics of today I think this company has an upgraded their products and I using old technology prone to failure. Just my opinion.
The IO Code can really only mean 2 things. Either a defective Control Board or a defective Igniter (Or the wires). You can test the igniter with an Ohmmeter. A "Good" igniter will have a fairly low resistance, in the range of 30 Ohms. A "Bad" or open igniter will likely be many KOhms or higher and way too high a resistance to glow and ignite the gas. If the resistance check passes then the Control Board is likely bad. If you are comfortable with soldering, the likely failed component is the power triac that feeds the igniter and will be way less expensive than an entire new control board
What a great comment! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It was, in fact the board. I just opened the pool, and the heater made it through another NY winter, but it could crap out at any time. I kept the old control board, so im going to check that power triac (×whatever that is. ) I would definitively try to solder in a new component. Ive only done that once, on a capacitor for an outdoor weather station and its still going, so its worth the try. Like I said before thanks again for all the info
The triac should be the rectangular device with 3 leads right behind the connector. If one of those leads is connected to the igniter connector, that is it. I had a spare board and was going to look, but I can't locate it. If you unsolder the triac it and send me the numbers, I can probably identify it. BTW, Great video, it should really help some of the people out there
So i was curious and grabbed the bad board that was giving me the IO code, and sure enough, the one part that looks corroded is the thing you said (the triac). All 3 solder connections look good. Its a small rectangular part with a small hole cut out adjacent to where the ignitor plugs in. I don't think there's any chance of me finding another one since there's no writing on it, but thanks for all the info. You must be in the electronics or pool business!
@@Samlol23_drrich yes, actually, I am an Electrical Engineer and I own an Aerospace design and manufacturing company. I've got parts I designed flying on aircraft the DOD flys. When I get a second, I'll take a look at my board and see if I can give you a good replacement p/n
Thanks for the video. I am also having an igniter issue. I just got done checking the orifices and they are not clogged. One thing I noticed is the transformer seems extremely hot. I’m not sure if this is the usual. I don’t know if it’s the igniter the gas valve or some issue with the circuit board I think I’m gonna have to call a technician out.
What code are you getting? Are you comfortable using a multimeter? Check that the igniter is getting 120volts and it's heating up. If the board is sending 120v, it may just be an inexpensive igniter. Those are plug and play. The service manual link is in the description. It's very helpful.
@@Samlol23_drrich getting “if” for ignition failure. I’ll try the multimeter tomorrow and let you know. Frustrating that our pool is only 3 years old and this is the second issue with the heater. Luckily, the first one was covered under the one year warranty. Not sure if it matters, but everything was fine last year and this just started with our spring opening.
@toddh2000 I was just looking. It's not the igniter. Did you turn on the Internal gas shut off? I would make sure that is opened and then I'd make sure all the fuses on the other board have continuity. Yuck.
@@Samlol23_drrich I tried measuring the voltage from the board going to the igniter during the ignition process and it never read anything above a couple of volts and I assume that was just static noise. Yes, the internal gas valve is turned on. I did also check the three fuses and they have continuity. I am guessing that this is pointing to a bad board? Also, throughout my testing, I did notice that the transformer again got very hot.
@toddh2000 when I replaced the igniter the board was sending 120 to the leads. However, it's possible something is failing before the igniter phase. So it wouldn't send voltage. Did you download the service manual in the description? That is worth it's weight in gold. It's really well done with color photos and everything. Take a look at that first.
When it’s nothing else it’s the control board. I’ve learned that over the years. Now I buy the most mechanical least electronic things I can find. Good luck
William Weller thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully I don’t need to make another next month when I open the pool, but you never know what you’re gonna find.....
Hey when you mentioned how many boards you've had to change out, i would consider testing the ground wire. I find that to be a issue with furnace boards especially with new construction. You may not have a good dedicated ground
Thank you. Thats actually a good thought. Don't want to jinx it but the heater has been fine for the last couple of years. By coincidence I fixed my one issue that nobody could figure out but a few people had- I couldn't turn the unit off completely without killing the propane. Turned out to be something called a fireman's switch on the timer. It was shorted out and bad. Took it out of the loop and all is working great. Thanks for the good advice though. I'll keep it in mind!
There are so many possible things that can go wrong. It’s just like a furnace you would have in your home. The display board code is what you need to look at. Good luck.
Thanks helpful. I have same heater. Getting lower case code “bd”. I called Hayward and they says it’s an ignitor or ICB, or blower. Any ideas on which of the three ? Thanks
In the video description is a link to the service manual. Download it if you haven't and follow that troubleshooting step by step. Check the propane supply and valves. I would shut them and open them a few times. May be related to that. Good luck. Let me know please
Three years ago, my IF code was a stuck regulator diaphragm on the back of the gas valve. If you DON'T know what you are doing, leave it alone and replace the valve. If you have a clue about mechanical stuff, you can remove the rear cover of the valve, and check for the disk sticking. This winter it was clogged jets in the big black pipe at the bottom. 7/16 wrench to unscrew the jets, tap out the gunk, and clean the pipe if you can. Replace the jets into the black pipe, and test. IF usually doesn't involve the ignition. If start the heater in the dark, look for the orange glow in the burner window, this will tell you the igniter is likely working ok. Can also be caused by low fuel flow, or in my case an LP tank with less than 1/8 full. Not enough pressure head in the LP lines to get a good solid 'WOOOOF' when the gas comes on.
That's good to know. Thanks. So far no IF faults. This one was "io" which supposedly was the ignitor. But it wasnt. Interestingly, before I made this video I was so pissed I left a comment that "Hayward refused to help me" with a brief summary of this story on a video on their you tube channel. Didnt see that they responded until 3 months later, but they first asked me to call in so they could help. When I didnt respond they suggested that if I went through the flow chart on their site, and it still wasnt firing, I should replace the circuit board. Bingo. That would have saved me a lot of aggravation. Thanks for the comment. Pools are money pits.
Hi Doc, I am having IF issue. Gas valve does get activation voltage but it does not seem to turn on. Could you explain how to access the diaphragm so I can try before embarking on a $150 new valve? Thank you!
You’re not kidding. Mine doesn’t shut off. If I leave the propane valve opened, it will eat thru the entire tank even of everything is off. When we are done heating the pool, it’s bypass mode and shut the propane valve. Work around for 2 years.
It’s 29° here in New York and I’m still trying to get my new unit Hayward 400 BTU to even go click click the dirt get it going so the water won’t freeze over in the pool… no era code but I’ll figure that part out… but more importantly who’s your landscaper? :-)
Dude, drain your pool about 18”, and winterize everything. Pull the plug and blow the water out of the heat exchanger so it doesn’t freeze and fix it in April! Ps I’m the landscaper. It looks good from far, but it’s far from good.
thank you very much. My heater is not igniting, I rreplaced the board . the blower comes on but does not ignite. Maybe I need an igniter. I appreciate your hel;p Charley
If you are comforTable working with electricity and have a multimeter, trace the wire leading to the igniter to the board (it may even say it,), and power it up with the multimeter and see if the board is sending 120v to the igniter. If it is, replace the igniter. I probably would have done that before the board, since it’s cheaper. If it was the igniter, save your old board, it’s good to have an extra. Are you getting an “io” code on the display?
thats pretty much what we do on a site is just start metering out anything and everything that deals with a code. i hate they wouldnt or couldnt help you on phone. its hard for techs sometimes to get someone on the phone with various companies. glad its fixed, thats the main goal.... but at least now you know you can fix probably 99% of your hvac type stuff too. lol
Thanks. I appreciate the nice words because most in the business don't take such a calm approach when a homeowner wants to work on their own equipment. I happen to enjoy it (since I don't do it for a living, every day, its a novelty and rewarding when it works out). Heck, I'm a dentist and even replaced the motor on my panoramic xray machine, and one of the start boxes on my copeland head compressor that runs my office. I guess you could say i like anything other than fixing teeth...... Thanks again for watching and for the nice comment. Really
@@Samlol23_drrich when a homeowner busts out a multimeter and digs in.....i for one have no problems at all helping. we get calls sometimes and if it is a customer i know knows how to check a few things...i will straight save them a service call and tell them exactly what i would start checking first. some of these companies are staying off the web due to people selling their products online that comes with no warranty and such. keeping the warranty is a huge deal with getting an actual service tech to put their name on it in that case. but if its out of warranty. dig in. lol
Thank you Sam, I had the same issue last year and your video helped and I replaced board and ignite earn everything was working good in till just now when the same issue is happening. I can see voltage of 120 volts coming to the egg nighter but the system will not light. Going to replace the board again. Let me know if he have any helpful suggestions. Thanks
@@roshanhath honestly I'm not in the business so I'm not sure without researching it. I think it should click when it opens. It was merely a guess. I'll see what I can find and edit this post if I do. Okay edit. Watch this guys video. It's very good. ua-cam.com/video/ENIPrRqL3gc/v-deo.html
@@Samlol23_drrich Hey Sam, found the issue. The igniter was bad but when I put a new one it still would not light up. So before replacing the board I took the system out of bo (bypass mode) and it suddenly worked. Put it back in bo and it still works so far. Thank you for you help. Roger
@@roshanhath well that’s good. The boards have gotten expensive. Glad it’s working. Enjoy the pool. We have another 3 months here until I see what damage the winter brought to my heater. It’s a yearly worry. Thanks for commenting.
I ordered a new circuit bored I’m just confused about the board ...... the one that’s in my heater says Version 20 I can’t find another version 20 the one I ordered is a version 19..... wondering if it matters...any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you
Thanks for watching my video. Im a dentist, so unfortunately im in no position to give you expert advice on the circuit board version and whether that matters at all. Having said that, i can tell you what i would do. I have replaced the circuit board 3 times in the 10 years i have lived in this house. I never ever even looked at the writing on the board or what version it was. As long as the part number on the outer plastic is corrrect and its an oem hayward part that fits, it is most likely fine. If you are really worried, or ordered it from a vendor with a restrictive return policy, call hayward and ask. The worst that can happen is they are no help. Best case they allay your fears. If you bought from amazon, not a third party, i would suggest just installing it to verify that it works. Test every function. If it works, forget it. If there are any issues, then call hayward and return the part. Like i said, never ever looked at anything but part number and never had any issue Hope that helps. Let me know if you get any info, im interested to know. R
It Can be a number of different things the tech manuel is just suggestions and help to try and solve problems That is why we dont pull our own teeth LOL
Marshall Phillips yeah, but I would have no problem if someone did want to pull their own teeth. I’ll even help and tell you what to do. Next life I’m a plumber doing hvac and heating. Love that stuff and have spent the last bunch of years learning all I can. I’m not licensed but can and have fixed everything I own, including a gas heater. They could have simply told me if I ran through all the diagnostics, replace the main circuit board. That’s all I was looking for. In fact, about a year after this video, the topic came up on another forum. I said very little, didnt bitch like I did in this video. Then Someone from Hayward service dept reached out to me by PM and told me if everything checked out replace the main board.
I’m not sure what part you are talking about. The main circuit board? Did you go to Hayward’s site and grab the schematic of your exact model, and get the exact part you need? Or similarly take a look at the old board for a part number? If so, it’s as simple as removing all the connectors from the old part and plugging them into the new part. It should be identical.
@@goldenshovel9154 Good luck. Do yourself a favor and don't disconnect a single wire without taking multiple pictures Of that old circuit board with the wires connected first.
@@Samlol23_drrich As a teacher who pinches pennies and am willing to learn (UA-cam is an excellent resource 😊), I promise you I have multiple pictures but I'm very grateful to you for not just replying to my question but your input. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Hey I'm sorry that I did not see this comment until now or I would have answered. No, I haven't had an issue like that. The touch pad with bezel is one part. There is also a small circuit board that screws to the back of the touch pad. I think its called the display board. . Then that board connects to the main board of the heater. I would use a multimeter and try to test for continuity while pushing the up and down button. Maybe you can get an idea of if its the actual buttons (no continuity when pushing) or that display board.
I would check pages 44, 45 and 46. There are a lot of tests and things that can give that fault, most related to gas valve, flame sensor or insect webs in gas jets. The service manual below gives great detail. Good luck and let me know. www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/UHS-Heater-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf
Have a board problem too, I’m a software engineer by trade so I decided to just replace their board with my own. Long story short, for less than 100 bucks I know have a fully functioning smart-enabled controller that I can access via a simple app on my phone now and view/set pool temperature and override on/off switch. That said... it’s presently a bunch of wires temporarily connected in - I’m trying to find some broken controller boards to source the connectors from - any chance you have the old/broken one still?
Unfortunately I just soldered in a new triac in that old board at the suggestion of an electrical engineer's comment on this video. The part was less than two dollars. I have yet to test it, but im going to save it until my current board breaks and then swap it out. I like having donor parts anyway, so unfortunately cant help. Sorry
Probably something like that. It is very hard to have electronic components sit outside year-round in New York. Even if direct moisture is kept from the board, there is humidity, insects, etc. The pool is a money pit. Luckily I can usually fix stuff inexpensively. Let's see, pump motor replaced, impeller twice snapped off, 2x circuit boards, heater display board, auto top off replaced, not to mention skimmer parts break, weirs need to be replaced and valves need new o rings. Yuk
@@Samlol23_drrich yup I live in Michigan where there are a lot of drastic temperature changes. Opened my pool last year and found that I had to rebuild my pump because just about every seal was cracked. Puddles of water all over the place.
Let me look. Got them both on Amazon. I'll put links into this response- I'll edit it. www.amazon.com/dp/B004VTG3I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_P6XK1BE8DWWP5ASG48HX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And www.amazon.com/dp/B004VTG3Q6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share But go to haywards site and find the exact part # if your heater isn't exactly the same as mine. I would try the ignitor first.
Hayward customer service is horrible. I had a similar experience. I followed their procedure as she requested then waited over a week for their technical person to return my call only for them to say call a service center.
incredible. Nothing more frustrating than being able to do something and not being given an opportunity by the company. If a customer asks the right questions they should be treated like the tech. when I first started out in my job as a dentist, I realized that the companies would basically tell the guy from the repair company how to fix the machines but wouldn't tell me when I called. the guy would open the machine, call the company, say it was "Joe" from Henry Schein and I'd watch as support would tell him where to place his multimeter, what to set it on and what the reading should be. now I always call and pretend to be a tech. Always. I don't even need to lie. If you ask the right questions in the right way, they just assume.
Just swapped both the igniter & that circuit board. Still no fix. Says LO. I’ve cleaned the filters and still no fix. Changed out screeen display board still no fix.
Im not in the business but LO means low water flow. Here is the manual www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/UHS-Heater-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf Check the pump, returns, etc
@@alfredkulhanek1889 look at the service manual in my last post. Pages 40 thru 42. It says lo could be a bad water pressure switch, vent pressure switch or temperature sensor switch. Shows you how to check them, and what they all look like. If you don’t have a multimeter to check continuity, you can probably just jump out the switches one at a time and see if the code goes away (if you know how to do that and are comfortable with electricity etc). If it’s not flow due to a filter (my guess is that it’s not. The flow has to be severely restricted to cause this code in my opinion) it’s one of those .3 things. All are easily accessible and easy to test. Good luck.
I have an issue with my H400 heather. Since today, everytime it starts it makes a loudly blast! To the point that the noise alerted my neighbor, who came to check if everything was fine. For precaution I turned it off and closed the gas valve. I suspect that the gas valve leaks releasing too much gas before sending the spark for ignition. Any ideas? Thanks!
I would definitely call an expert for that. It sounds like delayed combustion, where extra gas is building up before it’s ignited. Can be a bunch of things, from low gas pressure to dirty burner. Any code?
Jose, did you ever figure out the problem? Mine is doing the exact same thing and I'm running out of ideas. I was told it might be a soot problem but blew everything thing out and no change. Thanks in advance for any help.
I work on appliances and this looks similar to ovens, heaters, and dryers. What you described could be a bad igniter. In ovens the gas valve will open when the igniter starts to pull about 3.3 amps. Sometimes when they go bad it will pull the amperage but not get hot enough to ignite the gas, but since it is pulling the amperage the gas valve will open and fill the oven with gas. If the igniter the gets hot enough while there is excess gas building up it can cause that problem. If the igniter on these are the ceramic glow bar style then you can try turning the gas off and watching it heat up. It should glow bright white in the center within 45 seconds. If it is only glowing Orange or takes a very long time for the gas valve to open then I would just replace the igniter to be on the safe side.
Is anyone familiar with just replacing the if igniter? I have it exposed, but not sure if ordering and just removing a final screw or two and removing/replacing is enough. I also have problems with the small animals.
I actually did replace the igniter , and yes it was as simple as removing that one screw, and then plugging it into the circuit board- if I recall correctly. In my case it didn’t fix the issue
Maybe somebody should call technical support on how to fill a cavity. Some things homeowners should not try to fix. I’ve replaced heaters after homeowners nearly blew their houses up trying to do repairs.
See, I don't give a crap if someone takes sandpaper to their chipped tooth or does their own braces with that at home invisalign junk. If your comfortable doing it yourself, go for it. Im glad to tell you what the risks are. But don't tell me I can't do something in my own house I'm comfortable doing. Dont care if its wiring, plumbing or structural. If someone is stupid enough to blow up their house it shouldn't be on hayward. Maybe you should google "right to repair" and Apple. But don't tell me what I can do to the house I own. Edit. I dont mean to come off as a dick. What if your dealership told you that you can't do your own brakes if you've been doing them since you were 16? There is a big difference between them encouraging HOs to do repairs, and giving them real tech support on their product when anyone calls having been through every test in their own service manual- and the manual suggests calling the manufacturer.
It's an ignition failure. It can be about 10 different things, so I suggest you do a Google search and find the pdf service manual for your exact type of heater. It will run through all of the tests that you need to do to see where the problem is. But of course the first thing to do is make sure your gas valve is open those outside the unit as well as inside the unit
@@Samlol23_drrich it red I/O on the display so ignite are open. We tested the igniter with a multimeter. The ohms were light 968,000 so we ordered a new one. It should be here tomorrow which is great. The pool is 80° without a heater since the temperature here will be over 100 again tomorrow.
And embarrassingly, I have. Of course I can’t give myself a shot, but I have two problem teeth - and I use my wife’s lighted makeup mirror attached to the chair with woodworking clamps, and a headlamp. I’ve done it in the office as well as at home. Gotta practice what I preach.
They won't help you as a consumer because if you hurt yourself and they are helping you they are liable. It's not their fault litigation concerns are very real
I totally understand their perceived liability. There is a huge difference between someone calling in and saying "duh, my heater won't turn on, whats the matter with it?" And someone else who says "I'm getting an IO code and went through the troubleshooting in your service manual. I replaced the ignitor and its still throwing the code. Its getting 120v to the ignitor. The service manual says to call you, so whats next?" Its just a shame they have a policy not to discuss anything with anyone not in the business.
@@Samlol23_drrich if someone in the industry hadn't been sued before they wouldn't have that policy. There are some manufacturer's that will not even sell their products to the consumer and all of them either lower or eliminate the warranty if the product isn't professionally installed.
Put some moth balls in a soup can twice a year inside that front chamber. Should keep those rodents out. It is a sealed combustion chamber so is not a fire issue
@@brianbaker4378 now that is an awesome idea. I will cause they are back, my dog keeps going over to there and putting her snoot in that area. That means definitely back. I didnt record it, but last year I took both sides off and there were large mouse nests in both sides. They had partially eaten through the wires leading to some pressure switches. I had to rewire them. Im sure they are at it again. Thanks for all of your comments.
Brian Baker when something is relatively new or under warranty I don’t touch it and leave it to the pros. I only fix the older stuff that I know a lot of the guys wouldn’t want to even try and they would suggest replacement.
No, they are two different faults. IO is “igniter open circuit” and IF is “ignition fault”. Here’s their service manual. See page .32 www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/uhs-heater-troubleshooting-guide.pdf. But thanks for commenting and watching.
Hayward absolutely sucks. Nothing but probems since we've had this crap brand for 5 years. Filter problems, sand filter valves busted, other valves cracking, multiple heater problems, omnilogic probems, app problems, sever problems. Absolute junk
Of course hayward does t want to help homeowners, the last thing we need is homeowners messing around with gas appliances!!! Its dangerous, and homeowners do the dumnest things to save money, kikling themselves in the process!
If a “homeowner” calls and says to support, “the inducer motor kicks on, the pressure switches close and the board is sending 120v to a new igniter I just installed. The igniter is heating fine but before the gas valve opens I’m getting an IO code and it’s shutting down. I’ve gone through every troubleshooting step in the service manual. And at this point it says to call Hayward” That’s a lot different than a caller saying “duh- I live in a house with a pool and the heater is broken. Can you help me fix it?” My suggestion was if you know what you’re doing- Hayward shouldn’t just say “sorry can’t help cause it’s your house”.
You’re dealing with natural gas unit that’s y they won’t talk to u… Home owners shouldn’t be troubleshooting these units don’t be a cheap and pay a professional
The last thing I am is cheap. I service my oil burner and both of my central AC units because I’ve had “professionals” do more harm than good in the past. - I’ve got a 608 universal to do the AC legally. My unit is LP not NG. I plumbed and wired my whole house generator that also runs from my buried LP tank. Point isn't to say "look at all I can do" - the point Is if someone like me (I know what I'm doing) calls they shouldn't NOT help me just because I'm a HO. And by the way, if you've never heard a dentist say "I should have been a plumber and gone into HVAC"- well now you have.
Pool professional here, don’t feel bad, I called Hayward support and was on the phone for 2 hours waiting to talk to someone and finally I just hung up. I’m in SoCal and everyone that I know dreads calling them
Woe. Just awful
lmao im years late but was just about to say this same thing
Thank you for your video. It's become clear that I don't just have a pool heater problem, I have a Hayward problem.
My first Hayward pool heater died at 18 months. They installed a new HDP 400 in Feb. 2022 under warranty. Two weeks later, the ignitor switch went bad. Nine months later, the ignitor switch has gone bad again. To obtain a switch under warranty, I must have a Hayward certified tech do the work. I've call all of them within a 50 mile radius, they either no longer do Hayward warranty work or don't service my area. I am paying a reliable pool maintenance tech to replace the $100 part (because labor isn't covered under their warranty any way). I am resigned to paying to have this part replaced every 9-12 months at my own expense.
What I've learned, if you buy Hayward products the warranty is illusory. I will never ever buy Hayward pool products again. Never.
Thats truly incredible. When you buy an expensive name brand heater you don't expect problem after problem. And the fact that you need to pay labor adds insult to injury. We all know labor is often more costly than the part.
Thanks for commenting
Hey Sam, thanks for the video, as a pool professional I found your experience with Hayward interesting and I have to say in many ways we're frustrated with them as well. They are however the 800 pound gorilla in our area for pool equipment and we still sell some Hayward products simply because it's easy to get parts. Had some crazy situations with other companies where critical parts from our suppliers were back-ordered for months! I'd also like to add that even though we get support I often find fixes for elusive problems by going right to youtube and seeing if someone else had the problem. Definitely sucks they wouldn't talk to you at all but I can also say you're far from the typical home-owner and obviously a capable guy. We see so many dangerous janky fixes in part I understand why manufacturers only talk to pros. With that said, to be a residential pool guy there is NO certification or training required like that of a plumber or electrician so it can be a mixed bag when you hire someone. Having owned a business and worked on pools for over 35 years I can say one thing, they definitely don't make them like they used to. I remember when pool support gear lasted 20-30 years, now we're seeing a 3-5 year cycle for pumps and filters with sometimes brand new out of the box things leaking! Last year I had to warranty 4 multiports, brand new leaking out of the waste port when running on filter.
Interesting comment. Thanks for sharing your experiences with them. I totally understand why their “policy” might be not to help consumers troubleshoot, and I would hate to think a company’s reputation can go down the drain based upon the poor judgement of one phone agent, but that may be what happened here. After this video got so,e traction, (and after I replaced the board), a couple of Hayward representatives actually reached out to me and asked me to contact them- which I didn’t do.
You’ve been in this for years, so I’m sure you know exactly how to make a proper repair. But what about the guy who buys a truck, puts an ad in the local paper and has ten accounts? That guy may have no idea what he is doing, so for Hayward to make a blanket statement that they won’t troubleshoot with me, but will with him is downright foolish. I fix all of my own dental equipment, including some fairly complicated X-ray machines I have. I’ve had to call the manufacturer’s support on multiple occasions, and I’ve never been blown off the way I was by the phone rep at Hayward. I was pissed, and that’s why I made the vid. Yes, I still use so,e Hayward equipment, but when my heater finally fails I’ll think long and hard before I buy another. Sorry about the long response. Thanks again for your comment.
Thank you for sharing your experience with the spa heater, I had a similar experience with Hayward. After having the control board and circuit board replaced for 450 dollars by a technician I had the same error codes 1 month after the 1 year warranty period ended. I called the technician guy back and he said Hayward wont replace them free. I called Hayward and demanded to speak to the rep in central Florida, I told him I would never buy another Hayward product again. They replaced the circuit board at no cost to me. My technician is a con artist though and got pissed at me for going over him and complaining. The technician tried to sell me the control board also. I just repaired the ignightor wires that were chewed by mice. Thanks to your video I did it myself. Saving another hundred bucks!!
Glad my video helped. You think the tech was going to get the part from Hayward for no charge, and then charge you for it? Crazy. Ive found the only way not to get ripped is to do what you can yourself. Everyone is entitled to make a living, but i hate to be pushed into something new if something older can be fixed. Its worth the gamble most of the time.
“Your technician” is a con artist because he wasn’t going to give you a free board?? Your a con artist for expecting them to do free work. Btw, the igniter wire has a certain resistance that if broken needs to be replaced not fixed otherwise it’s a fire hazard.
@@dutchvanderlin5556 Agreed. The technician doesn't cover the warranty. Hayward covers the warranty. It's not the tech's fault that Hayward shit broke lol
Thanks for sharing the video. Didn’t have same issue as you. But, I’m so grateful for sharing the Hayward Diagnostic manual. It’s a great reference manual. Better than the one included with the heater. Helped out a lot. I was able to fix our Hayward Heater. It’s up and running again.
Thanks for the comment. I learned a long time ago to try to get the service manual.(not the owners manual) for any piece of equipment I own. As time goes on they become more difficult to obtain. When I started my dental practice I was paying $200/hr for a service tech to come out and fix stuff. How? He'd call the manufacturer support line and say "hi this is Joe from bigdentalcompany- I need to troubleshoot your xray machine" and they would spoon feed the guy info it was impossible for me to get as a non tech.
Now I don't buy anything if they won't give me the service manual so I can fix it myself.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to check my Hayward H400. It's only been used about 10 times in 5 years, but it broke for no apparent reason. It's not just the harsh weather in New York; we have the same issues here in Florida. The problem is poor quality due to production in countries like China. The circuit boards in these newer outdoor devices, whether it's HVAC or other similar equipment, aren't built to withstand the elements. It feels like manufacturers just don't care. Honestly, they're all the same; none of the vendors are reliable.
Thanks for this video, exact same issue on my heater. Replaced the igniter first but that made no difference. Then found this video and bit the bullet on a new control board, and it fired right up! For us here in California we are suppose to use the 'Ultra Low Nox" PCBA, which I could only find for $1,100!!!! it is the exact same board layout, as the standard PCBA which is I found for $400. I chose the less expense one, and it is working flawlessly. Not sure what could possibly be the difference between the boards, maybe something in the firmware. Now I am just waiting for the California Environmental Police to show up and arrest me!!! Anyway, thanks again for sharing your experience, it helped!!!
1100 is nuts. I would have done the same thing.
Thanks for commenting! And glad the video helped
Thanks for your video, it was very helpful in repairing my Hayward, different issue (water pressure switch), but your method brought it home!
Im glad! Thanks for watching
Awesome educational heater tips,, thank you!!!Your pool & día design is beautiful surrounded by an enchanting awesome forest. Lucky you !!! Greetings from Palm Sorings , California.
thank you!
Great video I am having the same problem with the exact same heater going to order the igniter and go thru same process I am very grateful to have found your awesome video
Every once in a while i get lucky and one of my vids helps someone! Glad it helped, and hope its just the igniter and not the board.
You are the man thanks again !
I forgot to ask where is the best place to buy the igniter and circuit board amazon ? Thank you very much
@@ericwebber68 definitively was amazon. Let me check to see if any particular vendor......edit. okay just looked at my amazon account. The control board, ignitor, as well as my replacement of the belzel and keypad and display board were all sold by amazon directly (amazon.com services llp) not a third party. Hope that helps
samlol23 Thank you very much
Yep I had the same problem, they would not give me the service manuals, after having a less than friendly conversation with Hayward and explaining to them that first I cannot even get a service person to come to check it out, second, once I found someone they wanted $250 just to come out.. They did send me the service manuals. The first problem was the control board for the panel, that was a $900 part.. Then was the control board and display board for the heater. That was tks to mice that had built a nest and chewed at the wiring. I fixed it all myself, was easy, did not require a so-called service tech. basic tools, philips screwdriver and a volt-ohm meter.
Its incredible how many openings there are in something that sits outside. Rodents get into mine every year. No matter what i do. They seem to like the sides where the flow switch sits. Thanks for commenting
Was anyone else reminded of “fast Times at Ridgemont high” when he said “my dads a TV repair man, he’s got an AWESOME set of tools”
Ahhh. Someone finally
@@Samlol23_drrich Spicoli you cant fix this heater!
falconnius I can fix it.........
learn it,,, know it , live it
That’s my brothers car. He’s gonna kill you, he’s gonna kill me, he’s gonna kill us!
Good job. I have a Hayward heater that has been nothing but problems from day one. I did have an issue where the mouse mice ate some wires. They were all replaced by a technician. No matter how much money I throw into this piece of junk Never works when you want to work i.e. when you have guests over. New England winters destroy these machines. They’re not designed for this climate. The company should make a more secure an element resistant unit for the north east and northern areas. Just saying. One final word. Given the new solid state circuitry and electronics of today I think this company has an upgraded their products and I using old technology prone to failure. Just my opinion.
nice job. im the same way I can call and get someone else to fix it but I like to be able to do things myself .... bravo
Hello Sam , Thanks so much your share . I have the same problem with Hayward H250 . Thanks so much
Glad it helped!
The IO Code can really only mean 2 things. Either a defective Control Board or a defective Igniter (Or the wires). You can test the igniter with an Ohmmeter. A "Good" igniter will have a fairly low resistance, in the range of 30 Ohms. A "Bad" or open igniter will likely be many KOhms or higher and way too high a resistance to glow and ignite the gas. If the resistance check passes then the Control Board is likely bad. If you are comfortable with soldering, the likely failed component is the power triac that feeds the igniter and will be way less expensive than an entire new control board
What a great comment! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It was, in fact the board. I just opened the pool, and the heater made it through another NY winter, but it could crap out at any time. I kept the old control board, so im going to check that power triac (×whatever that is. )
I would definitively try to solder in a new component. Ive only done that once, on a capacitor for an outdoor weather station and its still going, so its worth the try.
Like I said before thanks again for all the info
The triac should be the rectangular device with 3 leads right behind the connector. If one of those leads is connected to the igniter connector, that is it. I had a spare board and was going to look, but I can't locate it. If you unsolder the triac it and send me the numbers, I can probably identify it. BTW, Great video, it should really help some of the people out there
@@bigjohnk6113 thanks again. Ill look
So i was curious and grabbed the bad board that was giving me the IO code, and sure enough, the one part that looks corroded is the thing you said (the triac). All 3 solder connections look good. Its a small rectangular part with a small hole cut out adjacent to where the ignitor plugs in.
I don't think there's any chance of me finding another one since there's no writing on it, but thanks for all the info. You must be in the electronics or pool business!
@@Samlol23_drrich yes, actually, I am an Electrical Engineer and I own an Aerospace design and manufacturing company. I've got parts I designed flying on aircraft the DOD flys. When I get a second, I'll take a look at my board and see if I can give you a good replacement p/n
Thanks for the video. I am also having an igniter issue. I just got done checking the orifices and they are not clogged. One thing I noticed is the transformer seems extremely hot. I’m not sure if this is the usual. I don’t know if it’s the igniter the gas valve or some issue with the circuit board I think I’m gonna have to call a technician out.
What code are you getting? Are you comfortable using a multimeter? Check that the igniter is getting 120volts and it's heating up. If the board is sending 120v, it may just be an inexpensive igniter. Those are plug and play. The service manual link is in the description. It's very helpful.
@@Samlol23_drrich getting “if” for ignition failure. I’ll try the multimeter tomorrow and let you know. Frustrating that our pool is only 3 years old and this is the second issue with the heater. Luckily, the first one was covered under the one year warranty. Not sure if it matters, but everything was fine last year and this just started with our spring opening.
@toddh2000 I was just looking. It's not the igniter. Did you turn on the Internal gas shut off? I would make sure that is opened and then I'd make sure all the fuses on the other board have continuity.
Yuck.
@@Samlol23_drrich I tried measuring the voltage from the board going to the igniter during the ignition process and it never read anything above a couple of volts and I assume that was just static noise. Yes, the internal gas valve is turned on. I did also check the three fuses and they have continuity. I am guessing that this is pointing to a bad board? Also, throughout my testing, I did notice that the transformer again got very hot.
@toddh2000 when I replaced the igniter the board was sending 120 to the leads. However, it's possible something is failing before the igniter phase. So it wouldn't send voltage. Did you download the service manual in the description? That is worth it's weight in gold. It's really well done with color photos and everything. Take a look at that first.
Having this issue at a vacation rental 😢 totally sucks. Yours is the only video with the same code. It rained so hopefully, that's the issue IDK
When it’s nothing else it’s the control board. I’ve learned that over the years. Now I buy the most mechanical least electronic things I can find. Good luck
Thank you for the video. Great help!
Thanks for taking the time to comment! Glad it helped
Thanks for the informative video brother. I would like to know how to order parts for my heater say i needed a new board?
Solid. Thank you and I got ur fast times reference
Great video !! Good work!
William Weller thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully I don’t need to make another next month when I open the pool, but you never know what you’re gonna find.....
Hey when you mentioned how many boards you've had to change out, i would consider testing the ground wire. I find that to be a issue with furnace boards especially with new construction. You may not have a good dedicated ground
Thank you. Thats actually a good thought. Don't want to jinx it but the heater has been fine for the last couple of years. By coincidence I fixed my one issue that nobody could figure out but a few people had- I couldn't turn the unit off completely without killing the propane. Turned out to be something called a fireman's switch on the timer. It was shorted out and bad. Took it out of the loop and all is working great.
Thanks for the good advice though. I'll keep it in mind!
I have the same exact heater and it keeps sputtering and won’t turn on to heat….going to watch this full video hopefully it helps 😢
There are so many possible things that can go wrong. It’s just like a furnace you would have in your home. The display board code is what you need to look at. Good luck.
That's why I like older stuff--no freaking pricey circuit boards.
youre not kidding. Its one problem after another.
Where can I download the diagnostic manual for the H series heater? I have trouble finding your type of manual online. Thank you.
It’s here....
www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/UHS-Heater-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf
Thanks helpful. I have same heater. Getting lower case code “bd”. I called Hayward and they says it’s an ignitor or ICB, or blower. Any ideas on which of the three ? Thanks
In the video description is a link to the service manual. Download it if you haven't and follow that troubleshooting step by step. Check the propane supply and valves. I would shut them and open them a few times. May be related to that. Good luck. Let me know please
I ordered a new ICB and igniter going to give those a try today.
@@smotto11 good luck. My money is on the board. They fail a lot from my experience and what I hear
Thanks, it help me a lot!!!
Im glad. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Three years ago, my IF code was a stuck regulator diaphragm on the back of the gas valve. If you DON'T know what you are doing, leave it alone and replace the valve. If you have a clue about mechanical stuff, you can remove the rear cover of the valve, and check for the disk sticking. This winter it was clogged jets in the big black pipe at the bottom. 7/16 wrench to unscrew the jets, tap out the gunk, and clean the pipe if you can. Replace the jets into the black pipe, and test. IF usually doesn't involve the ignition. If start the heater in the dark, look for the orange glow in the burner window, this will tell you the igniter is likely working ok. Can also be caused by low fuel flow, or in my case an LP tank with less than 1/8 full. Not enough pressure head in the LP lines to get a good solid 'WOOOOF' when the gas comes on.
That's good to know. Thanks. So far no IF faults. This one was "io" which supposedly was the ignitor. But it wasnt.
Interestingly, before I made this video I was so pissed I left a comment that "Hayward refused to help me" with a brief summary of this story on a video on their you tube channel.
Didnt see that they responded until 3 months later, but they first asked me to call in so they could help. When I didnt respond they suggested that if I went through the flow chart on their site, and it still wasnt firing, I should replace the circuit board.
Bingo. That would have saved me a lot of aggravation.
Thanks for the comment. Pools are money pits.
Hi Doc, I am having IF issue. Gas valve does get activation voltage but it does not seem to turn on. Could you explain how to access the diaphragm so I can try before embarking on a $150 new valve? Thank you!
These pool heaters SUCK. I bought the same one 4 yrs ago and it broke in 2 yrs. Wasted 2600$
You’re not kidding. Mine doesn’t shut off. If I leave the propane valve opened, it will eat thru the entire tank even of everything is off. When we are done heating the pool, it’s bypass mode and shut the propane valve. Work around for 2 years.
It’s 29° here in New York and I’m still trying to get my new unit Hayward 400 BTU to even go click click the dirt get it going so the water won’t freeze over in the pool… no era code but I’ll figure that part out… but more importantly who’s your landscaper? :-)
Dude, drain your pool about 18”, and winterize everything. Pull the plug and blow the water out of the heat exchanger so it doesn’t freeze and fix it in April! Ps I’m the landscaper. It looks good from far, but it’s far from good.
Thanks, Spicoli!
thank you very much. My heater is not igniting, I rreplaced the board . the blower comes on but does not ignite. Maybe I need an igniter. I appreciate your hel;p Charley
If you are comforTable working with electricity and have a multimeter, trace the wire leading to the igniter to the board (it may even say it,), and power it up with the multimeter and see if the board is sending 120v to the igniter. If it is, replace the igniter. I probably would have done that before the board, since it’s cheaper. If it was the igniter, save your old board, it’s good to have an extra. Are you getting an “io” code on the display?
thats pretty much what we do on a site is just start metering out anything and everything that deals with a code. i hate they wouldnt or couldnt help you on phone. its hard for techs sometimes to get someone on the phone with various companies. glad its fixed, thats the main goal.... but at least now you know you can fix probably 99% of your hvac type stuff too. lol
Thanks. I appreciate the nice words because most in the business don't take such a calm approach when a homeowner wants to work on their own equipment. I happen to enjoy it (since I don't do it for a living, every day, its a novelty and rewarding when it works out).
Heck, I'm a dentist and even replaced the motor on my panoramic xray machine, and one of the start boxes on my copeland head compressor that runs my office.
I guess you could say i like anything other than fixing teeth......
Thanks again for watching and for the nice comment. Really
@@Samlol23_drrich when a homeowner busts out a multimeter and digs in.....i for one have no problems at all helping. we get calls sometimes and if it is a customer i know knows how to check a few things...i will straight save them a service call and tell them exactly what i would start checking first. some of these companies are staying off the web due to people selling their products online that comes with no warranty and such. keeping the warranty is a huge deal with getting an actual service tech to put their name on it in that case. but if its out of warranty. dig in. lol
@@naturalstatepoolandspallc338 wish there were more like you!
Thank you Sam, I had the same issue last year and your video helped and I replaced board and ignite earn everything was working good in till just now when the same issue is happening.
I can see voltage of 120 volts coming to the egg nighter but the system will not light. Going to replace the board again.
Let me know if he have any helpful suggestions. Thanks
I wonder what would kill two boards in under two years. Are you sure it’s not the gas valve?
@@Samlol23_drrich No sure if it is. How would I check the gas valve? It has been working well and the unit is installed indoors with vents out.
@@roshanhath honestly I'm not in the business so I'm not sure without researching it. I think it should click when it opens. It was merely a guess. I'll see what I can find and edit this post if I do. Okay edit. Watch this guys video. It's very good. ua-cam.com/video/ENIPrRqL3gc/v-deo.html
@@Samlol23_drrich Hey Sam, found the issue. The igniter was bad but when I put a new one it still would not light up. So before replacing the board I took the system out of bo (bypass mode) and it suddenly worked. Put it back in bo and it still works so far. Thank you for you help. Roger
@@roshanhath well that’s good. The boards have gotten expensive. Glad it’s working. Enjoy the pool. We have another 3 months here until I see what damage the winter brought to my heater. It’s a yearly worry. Thanks for commenting.
Ok, was your dad really a television repairman with a gnarly set of tools or is that a "Fast Times at Ridgemont High" reference?
Maybe just a reference………thanks for commenting.
I ordered a new circuit bored I’m just confused about the board ...... the one that’s in my heater says Version 20 I can’t find another version 20 the one I ordered is a version 19..... wondering if it matters...any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you
Thanks for watching my video.
Im a dentist, so unfortunately im in no position to give you expert advice on the circuit board version and whether that matters at all.
Having said that, i can tell you what i would do.
I have replaced the circuit board 3 times in the 10 years i have lived in this house. I never ever even looked at the writing on the board or what version it was. As long as the part number on the outer plastic is corrrect and its an oem hayward part that fits, it is most likely fine.
If you are really worried, or ordered it from a vendor with a restrictive return policy, call hayward and ask. The worst that can happen is they are no help. Best case they allay your fears.
If you bought from amazon, not a third party, i would suggest just installing it to verify that it works. Test every function. If it works, forget it. If there are any issues, then call hayward and return the part.
Like i said, never ever looked at anything but part number and never had any issue
Hope that helps. Let me know if you get any info, im interested to know.
R
Thank you ... it should be here hopefully tomorrow I’ll let you know what happens
@@anthonyweiburg8520 does the older version work?
IO pressure switch.
Sometimes is the water pressure.
If it says "LO" yes. This was a different code per the service manual. Thanks for the suggestion though
It Can be a number of different things the tech manuel is just suggestions and help to try and solve problems That is why we dont pull our own teeth LOL
Marshall Phillips yeah, but I would have no problem if someone did want to pull their own teeth. I’ll even help and tell you what to do.
Next life I’m a plumber doing hvac and heating. Love that stuff and have spent the last bunch of years learning all I can. I’m not licensed but can and have fixed everything I own, including a gas heater. They could have simply told me if I ran through all the diagnostics, replace the main circuit board. That’s all I was looking for.
In fact, about a year after this video, the topic came up on another forum. I said very little, didnt bitch like I did in this video. Then Someone from Hayward service dept reached out to me by PM and told me if everything checked out replace the main board.
Gotta call to check out Hayward pool heater. Power to unit but no power to the membrane touch pad at all.
Didn’t see your comment. I assume you figured it out? Hopefully just the cheaper board the display board.
Ok. I ordered same part with directions and am not sure if I have 7 pin connectors or 11 pin connectors. Please advise.
I’m not sure what part you are talking about. The main circuit board? Did you go to Hayward’s site and grab the schematic of your exact model, and get the exact part you need? Or similarly take a look at the old board for a part number? If so, it’s as simple as removing all the connectors from the old part and plugging them into the new part. It should be identical.
@@Samlol23_drrich Amazon sold both igniter and circuit board.
Gonna try! Thanks!😊🌻
@@goldenshovel9154 Good luck. Do yourself a favor and don't disconnect a single wire without taking multiple pictures Of that old circuit board with the wires connected first.
@@Samlol23_drrich As a teacher who pinches pennies and am willing to learn (UA-cam is an excellent resource 😊), I promise you I have multiple pictures but I'm very grateful to you for not just replying to my question but your input. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Ever have an issue with the touch pad not lighting up to read and not able to send commands? ( Power to unit but no power to pad)
Hey I'm sorry that I did not see this comment until now or I would have answered. No, I haven't had an issue like that. The touch pad with bezel is one part. There is also a small circuit board that screws to the back of the touch pad. I think its called the display board. . Then that board connects to the main board of the heater.
I would use a multimeter and try to test for continuity while pushing the up and down button. Maybe you can get an idea of if its the actual buttons (no continuity when pushing) or that display board.
Hello, mine says IF, changed igniter and main board already, still show IF code. Any ideas?
Mine is Hayward H250FDN model
I would check pages 44, 45 and 46. There are a lot of tests and things that can give that fault, most related to gas valve, flame sensor or insect webs in gas jets. The service manual below gives great detail. Good luck and let me know. www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/UHS-Heater-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf
Have a board problem too, I’m a software engineer by trade so I decided to just replace their board with my own. Long story short, for less than 100 bucks I know have a fully functioning smart-enabled controller that I can access via a simple app on my phone now and view/set pool temperature and override on/off switch. That said... it’s presently a bunch of wires temporarily connected in - I’m trying to find some broken controller boards to source the connectors from - any chance you have the old/broken one still?
Unfortunately I just soldered in a new triac in that old board at the suggestion of an electrical engineer's comment on this video.
The part was less than two dollars. I have yet to test it, but im going to save it until my current board breaks and then swap it out. I like having donor parts anyway, so unfortunately cant help. Sorry
The boards controller if was probably bad, not sending the power to the igniter. Just a guess
Probably something like that. It is very hard to have electronic components sit outside year-round in New York. Even if direct moisture is kept from the board, there is humidity, insects, etc. The pool is a money pit. Luckily I can usually fix stuff inexpensively.
Let's see, pump motor replaced, impeller twice snapped off, 2x circuit boards, heater display board, auto top off replaced, not to mention skimmer parts break, weirs need to be replaced and valves need new o rings. Yuk
@@Samlol23_drrich yup I live in Michigan where there are a lot of drastic temperature changes. Opened my pool last year and found that I had to rebuild my pump because just about every seal was cracked. Puddles of water all over the place.
I have the same code showing do you have the product # for board and ignitor
Let me look. Got them both on Amazon. I'll put links into this response- I'll edit it.
www.amazon.com/dp/B004VTG3I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_P6XK1BE8DWWP5ASG48HX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And
www.amazon.com/dp/B004VTG3Q6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
But go to haywards site and find the exact part # if your heater isn't exactly the same as mine. I would try the ignitor first.
@@Samlol23_drrich thank you
Great job !!!!
@@PARDS2 thanks for watching and commenting. It’s still running………this year it was the temperature semsor………always something.
Where did you download the troubleshooting guide from.
Sorry. My response is 8 months too late. Didnt see your comment. If you still need it the link is in the description
Nice Fast Times reference!!!
Best movie EVER !
IF code on nat. gas fired unit. About to watch and see if this helps.
Good luck! When all else fails, it’s the BOARD. Diagnostic manual link in description- thanks for commenting
Thank You
My Jandy Lxi light (ignites/fires) but then quickly goes out. Any ideas?
I would start with these
www.comfortflow.com/blog/heating-service/some-reasons-why-your-burner-wont-stay-lit/
Hayward customer service is horrible. I had a similar experience. I followed their procedure as she requested then waited over a week for their technical person to return my call only for them to say call a service center.
incredible. Nothing more frustrating than being able to do something and not being given an opportunity by the company. If a customer asks the right questions they should be treated like the tech.
when I first started out in my job as a dentist, I realized that the companies would basically tell the guy from the repair company how to fix the machines but wouldn't tell me when I called. the guy would open the machine, call the company, say it was "Joe" from Henry Schein and I'd watch as support would tell him where to place his multimeter, what to set it on and what the reading should be.
now I always call and pretend to be a tech. Always. I don't even need to lie. If you ask the right questions in the right way, they just assume.
Just swapped both the igniter & that circuit board. Still no fix.
Says LO. I’ve cleaned the filters and still no fix. Changed out screeen display board still no fix.
Im not in the business but LO means low water flow. Here is the manual
www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/UHS-Heater-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf
Check the pump, returns, etc
@@Samlol23_drrich Lo usually means slow water flow from the filter, time to wash the filters..may give that a try
@@alfredkulhanek1889 look at the service manual in my last post. Pages 40 thru 42. It says lo could be a bad water pressure switch, vent pressure switch or temperature sensor switch. Shows you how to check them, and what they all look like. If you don’t have a multimeter to check continuity, you can probably just jump out the switches one at a time and see if the code goes away (if you know how to do that and are comfortable with electricity etc). If it’s not flow due to a filter (my guess is that it’s not. The flow has to be severely restricted to cause this code in my opinion) it’s one of those .3 things. All are easily accessible and easy to test. Good luck.
Thanks man!!!!
No prob! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for the nice video
And thank you for the nice comment
I have an issue with my H400 heather. Since today, everytime it starts it makes a loudly blast! To the point that the noise alerted my neighbor, who came to check if everything was fine. For precaution I turned it off and closed the gas valve. I suspect that the gas valve leaks releasing too much gas before sending the spark for ignition. Any ideas? Thanks!
I would definitely call an expert for that. It sounds like delayed combustion, where extra gas is building up before it’s ignited. Can be a bunch of things, from low gas pressure to dirty burner. Any code?
@@Samlol23_drrich no codes. I will check gas pressure.
@@JoseManuelDiazFranco I would remove and clean the burners also.
Jose, did you ever figure out the problem? Mine is doing the exact same thing and I'm running out of ideas. I was told it might be a soot problem but blew everything thing out and no change. Thanks in advance for any help.
I work on appliances and this looks similar to ovens, heaters, and dryers. What you described could be a bad igniter. In ovens the gas valve will open when the igniter starts to pull about 3.3 amps. Sometimes when they go bad it will pull the amperage but not get hot enough to ignite the gas, but since it is pulling the amperage the gas valve will open and fill the oven with gas. If the igniter the gets hot enough while there is excess gas building up it can cause that problem. If the igniter on these are the ceramic glow bar style then you can try turning the gas off and watching it heat up. It should glow bright white in the center within 45 seconds. If it is only glowing Orange or takes a very long time for the gas valve to open then I would just replace the igniter to be on the safe side.
Is anyone familiar with just replacing the if igniter? I have it exposed, but not sure if ordering and just removing a final screw or two and removing/replacing is enough. I also have problems with the small animals.
I actually did replace the igniter , and yes it was as simple as removing that one screw, and then plugging it into the circuit board- if I recall correctly. In my case it didn’t fix the issue
thank you!
Great video
Thanks!
Maybe somebody should call technical support on how to fill a cavity. Some things homeowners should not try to fix. I’ve replaced heaters after homeowners nearly blew their houses up trying to do repairs.
See, I don't give a crap if someone takes sandpaper to their chipped tooth or does their own braces with that at home invisalign junk.
If your comfortable doing it yourself, go for it. Im glad to tell you what the risks are.
But don't tell me I can't do something in my own house I'm comfortable doing. Dont care if its wiring, plumbing or structural.
If someone is stupid enough to blow up their house it shouldn't be on hayward.
Maybe you should google "right to repair" and Apple.
But don't tell me what I can do to the house I own.
Edit. I dont mean to come off as a dick. What if your dealership told you that you can't do your own brakes if you've been doing them since you were 16? There is a big difference between them encouraging HOs to do repairs, and giving them real tech support on their product when anyone calls having been through every test in their own service manual- and the manual suggests calling the manufacturer.
I got IF code . What is mean?
It's an ignition failure. It can be about 10 different things, so I suggest you do a Google search and find the pdf service manual for your exact type of heater. It will run through all of the tests that you need to do to see where the problem is. But of course the first thing to do is make sure your gas valve is open those outside the unit as well as inside the unit
It’s the igniter, has or flame sensor.
Did you find out what it was, i am fighting that now
I've been dealing with the IF code too...its driving me nuts because I can usually fix just about everything
Doc Holliday? are you really a dentist?
I really am (a quarantined one right now.) Kids only
NY baby thanks!
They ain't 180 anymore!
No, they definitely aren't. Everything is up in price, way up (except my salary!)
Thanks!!! Here goes nothing.😅
Nah. Here goes a heated pool tomorrow!
so mine is a SN150DHN Hayward and I am assuming it's the same? I'm taking you out to the heater with a laptop charger to play you over and over, LOL!
@@Mott360 download the service manual. There is a link in the description. What's wrong with it?
@@Samlol23_drrich it red I/O on the display so ignite are open. We tested the igniter with a multimeter. The ohms were light 968,000 so we ordered a new one. It should be here tomorrow which is great. The pool is 80° without a heater since the temperature here will be over 100 again tomorrow.
@@Mott360 nice. Hope that does it. You may need a chiller soon!
This is why you should do your own dental work .
And embarrassingly, I have. Of course I can’t give myself a shot, but I have two problem teeth - and I use my wife’s lighted makeup mirror attached to the chair with woodworking clamps, and a headlamp. I’ve done it in the office as well as at home. Gotta practice what I preach.
They won't help you as a consumer because if you hurt yourself and they are helping you they are liable. It's not their fault litigation concerns are very real
I totally understand their perceived liability. There is a huge difference between someone calling in and saying "duh, my heater won't turn on, whats the matter with it?" And someone else who says "I'm getting an IO code and went through the troubleshooting in your service manual. I replaced the ignitor and its still throwing the code. Its getting 120v to the ignitor. The service manual says to call you, so whats next?"
Its just a shame they have a policy not to discuss anything with anyone not in the business.
@@Samlol23_drrich if someone in the industry hadn't been sued before they wouldn't have that policy. There are some manufacturer's that will not even sell their products to the consumer and all of them either lower or eliminate the warranty if the product isn't professionally installed.
Put some moth balls in a soup can twice a year inside that front chamber. Should keep those rodents out. It is a sealed combustion chamber so is not a fire issue
@@brianbaker4378 now that is an awesome idea. I will cause they are back, my dog keeps going over to there and putting her snoot in that area. That means definitely back.
I didnt record it, but last year I took both sides off and there were large mouse nests in both sides. They had partially eaten through the wires leading to some pressure switches. I had to rewire them. Im sure they are at it again.
Thanks for all of your comments.
Brian Baker when something is relatively new or under warranty I don’t touch it and leave it to the pros. I only fix the older stuff that I know a lot of the guys wouldn’t want to even try and they would suggest replacement.
You mean I F not I O
No, they are two different faults. IO is “igniter open circuit” and IF is “ignition fault”. Here’s their service manual. See page .32 www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/uhs-heater-troubleshooting-guide.pdf. But thanks for commenting and watching.
@@Samlol23_drrich well mine first read SF then IF we changed the ignite n still not heating up
@lindalisten1516 did you have the service manual I linked above? If not download and follow the flow chart. It's great
Hayward absolutely sucks. Nothing but probems since we've had this crap brand for 5 years. Filter problems, sand filter valves busted, other valves cracking, multiple heater problems, omnilogic probems, app problems, sever problems. Absolute junk
@@veng1974 agreed
☆☆☆☆☆
Of course hayward does t want to help homeowners, the last thing we need is homeowners messing around with gas appliances!!! Its dangerous, and homeowners do the dumnest things to save money, kikling themselves in the process!
If a “homeowner” calls and says to support, “the inducer motor kicks on, the pressure switches close and the board is sending 120v to a new igniter I just installed. The igniter is heating fine but before the gas valve opens I’m getting an IO code and it’s shutting down. I’ve gone through every troubleshooting step in the service manual. And at this point it says to call Hayward”
That’s a lot different than a caller saying “duh- I live in a house with a pool and the heater is broken. Can you help me fix it?”
My suggestion was if you know what you’re doing- Hayward shouldn’t just say “sorry can’t help cause it’s your house”.
You’re dealing with natural gas unit that’s y they won’t talk to u… Home owners shouldn’t be troubleshooting these units don’t be a cheap and pay a professional
The last thing I am is cheap. I service my oil burner and both of my central AC units because I’ve had “professionals” do more harm than good in the past. - I’ve got a 608 universal to do the AC legally.
My unit is LP not NG. I plumbed and wired my whole house generator that also runs from my buried LP tank. Point isn't to say "look at all I can do" - the point Is if someone like me (I know what I'm doing) calls they shouldn't NOT help me just because I'm a HO. And by the way, if you've never heard a dentist say "I should have been a plumber and gone into HVAC"- well now you have.
Have the same problem with jandy heater
Guess anything exposed to the environment takes a beating
Thank you 👍🏻👍🏿