Great video man, explained nicely & easy to understand what your talking about, I just ordered some white springs from you guys last week and looking forward to testing them out and the difference it makes 🤘🇦🇺
I finally bought some springs for my guitars! I've been using your big blocks for years so I figured why not, plus my spring reverb/rattle has recently been really bothering me.
Today is May 11th and I dropped my 1988 Charvel Model 5FX off with Adam Reiver to add a brass block, brass claw, and noiseless springs. Adam is the nicest guy in the world, and Godfather of Tone
Came to find tips on how to choose the right spring tension for your setup. Not sure if low tension yellow is the best bet for strat, red higher tension, etc. Guess it doesn't matter since you're adjusting by claw? And if that's the case, why offer so many different tensions?
UA-cam must’ve heard my springs ringing, because I was just lookin at my springs thinkin these things gotta go, then I push refresh and this shows up in my recommendations .. lol
My Floyd Rose 1500 feels very stiff to use, it's set up correctly and stays in tune very well. Can different springs make it easier to use the bar? if so, which ones? thanks
hello Adam, i talked to you on the phone and you recommended the correct brass block i was looking for, looks beautiful sounds great, easy installation. my question is right now i am using two springs on the back , i guess i could use three low tension springs or two if i want to order the quiet coated springs?
great vid adam....watched many of them in the past,,,,,,are those springs made by schaller for the original floyd,,,,going to order these for all of my jacksons...
the way i did this was to block the rear vs the front . floyd rose level , loosened the spring tension a bit , all strings in perfect tune then held the gutiar so the spring side faced the ground .. then very slowly snugged my spring tension alternating between the screws until thew block fell out .. and was usually spot on at this point
my block was a pair of lineman's pliers the common type used by electricians .so the weight of the thick steel aided in the block falling out at just the right moment
One more thing to clarify for me please. All the different color springs use the same gage wire, and coil size. It is the length of them that makes the difference of the tension...correct?
Just bought a block for my PRS SE. I'm looking forward to upgrade the hell out of that bridge. I use 09 to 42 string gauge...Red springs? (I personally prefer 4 now as I rarely use the tremolo with dive bombs...)
Another question that may have already been answered. So, the trem stopper doesn’t necessarily have to be installed in the center? I use 3 springs and my OCD forces me to put them evenly spaced and straight. 😂 Also, is it best to put it closest to the wound string side or the unwound string (trem bar) side or does it matter? Thanks!
Hello sir, I was looking to buy a set of these, but I am wondering what color to buy. It’s for a 7 string in which I use 4 springs as 3 will not work in standard or dropped A tuning. From what I understand the sets come with 3 springs instead of the usual 5 that would come out of factory. So i was wondering if it would be similar or at least good enough tension if I got the red or even purple set. I guess the question is more, would 3 red or 3 purple equal 4 regular Floyd rose springs, or at least close enough that I could use only 3 springs on a 7 string? Anyway, I would really appreciate if you had any insight on that. Thanks!
He's exactly right. If you want less springs in the cavity then use the red high tension springs. I find with 3 regular springs and 9 gauge strings to be awesome with a floating floyd, the sensitity is perfect for a top mounted floyd to do short pullpups/pushdowns without the whammy being too tight. Setting up a floyd is really not rocket science once you understand how to use it. And once the strings are stretched and the nut is clamped and the floyd is level to the body, it is superior to a guitar with just locking tuners. Locking tuners can still slip, but with locking the strings at the not they will not slip. So when you wake up in the morning and see if your guitar is still in tune, it probably is. The original floyd rose is also superior to the licensed models in feel and build quality. It is the most comfortable bridge on the hand, it feels like nothings in the way... Now I understand why a lot of big name artists still use the floyd that was created in the 80's.
Yeah, I’m so used to my 1984 Kramer with a Floyd, I got spoiled. Rarely had to tune it. Now the last couple of Jackson’s I bought, neither stays in tune that well. The Jackson Floyd is better than the Floyd rose licensed one on the more expensive guitar.
I’m assuming he would adjust the other screw accordingly as well? Plus, it wasn’t in tune after either of his adjustments. So you would still have to go back-and-forth several times to get it in tune. 🤘🏻🎸
@@heyjarrod the knife edge quality is a big factor, i had a german floyd that was rock solid if it was set up properly but to be honest ill never buy a floating bridge again
If the tension on the bridge doesn't matter once tuned why don't all the strings have the same tension then? Is that for Guitars who don't have a long enough tension screw or something? Also does the action stay the same when you change to a different tension string and retune?
Well then, looks like I'm going on a little shopping spree now... lol. I just had to pull 2 springs from my Schecter Damian FR to use in my 99 Warlock NJ series, cuz the springs aren't tense enough to balance out the new strings, so I'm at least snagging some heavy duties, for sure!
The real spring question is: "Normaly", there are the 3 standard FR springs in it, when I replace them with...let´s say...2 harder red springs, I have to equal/ballance the claw as in the video, BUT does this change the ease of movement of the Floyd? I hate it being cumbersome, I want it to be smooth!
Hey nice video. Do you know if these springs can be used on a PRS that has a trem (even though it’s not a Floyd)? Because I’m getting lots of resonance from the springs that are in it.
Yes - you can use these on your PRS trem. You can also upgrade the block in there! My PRS blocks are here: www.fu-tone.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103
How do I use these without it breaking the ground (which goes to the claw). Do I need to scrape the polymer off the springs where they attach to claw and block?
hello Adam awesome videos i have a ibanez jem and have 3 springs but the claw screws are almost all the way to the body and thats where the edge bridge lies at zero and almost parallel to the body would i need a more tension shorter springs to have me back off the and have more play room if so what color would work best? thank you
I'm new at this. For my floyd rose I don't want too much tension so if I block my bridge (it's floating) use 9's, and use 2 springs (EVH) which springs will work best?
do you have anything that might make my tremolo flutter like a fucking well mounted german floyd rose built. the edge gets close on its own but my shit wares out or something
I have a Schecter USA DJ Ashba signature guitar, with an EVH D-tuna, tuned to D standard so I can also have drop C. 11-54 Ernie Ball strings, which springs should I use and what pattern? The pattern is most interesting because I don’t understand the different ones people use.
The short answer is yes you can - go with purple springs. However - setting the Dtuna for drop C will require some modification - email me and I will take you through it. adam@fu-tone.com
Sorry for the delay - watch it again. the whole thing is about just this. Set it level blocked - add extra tension - doe setup - remove block - adjust tension while tuning A string with the spring tension (which leads you back to level) - - - email me if you have issues. adam@fu-tone.com
So if I read you right, there is no perceived tension difference at the bar once you're floated at zero point...2 heavy springs can be equal to 3 medium or even 4 -5 light springs once the claw has adjusted things back to zero-point float.Like saying what weights more a pound of feathers, a pound of rocks or a pound of water?
I personally use the red ones, i have a 9-46, e-e and a 56 on my 7th string, i had 2 of the purples in there and even though the tension was the same it wasnt as smooth for dives, pull back on the bar were not the same either , i had 3 yellows in it before those and they were much longer total length but much more smooth, however i ran into tuning stability with that string set, the reds length and tension seem to work best for my feel
I guess the question is how the bar tension is affected when using 2 or 3 or 4 springs.. i.e if I'm using 2 springs to float vs 4 strings to float (both achievable at the optimum claw depth) - how is the flutter, tuning stability and resistance when diving affected ? Also, it would be awesome if you can provide some of of relative tension numbers for each of the spring types you offer ...
Watch again - If you float the bridge level to the body - the tension will be the same with any combination of springs and positions. It will require the same amount of overall spring tension no matter what to hold against your string gauge and tuning.
Thanks, I get that bit... :) Using 2 or 4 strings is not the point of contention here - as long as the spring tension = string tension, one can float the bridge parallel to the body after adjusting the claw when using 2 or 4 springs.. Let me try to ask the same question in a different way: What are the pros/cons If I use 2 spring to balance the bridge vs. using 4 springs to balance the bridge: - is it harder to dive considering I'm stretching 4 strings vs. 2 strings? - how is the flutter effected? will the fluttering sound be more sustained when using 2 springs? - etc. I hope I've explained the question a bit better..
Yes - understood - thanks for clarifying. The difference in marginal to none (with tension and flutter). With everything having to do with taste, I suggest that you try both to see for yourself. Start with 2 springs - play for a bit. add a third spring and adjust the claw - play. Add the fourth, adjust claw. Very simple experiment. Find your comfort zone!
Thats the beauty of chasing tone! It is all selective and whatever sounds good to you - IS GOOD! I would suggest checking out some other FU-Tone product such as the Big Blocks or Saddle Inserts. Thanks for watching Tom and thanks for taking the time to comment!
When you're tightening the claw to find the A are you just tightening one screw or both with equal turns? What if you find the A whole just screwing in one of the screws?
Anything floating is not the environment for proper double stops. You can add my trem stopper (making your bridge dive only) and then you can do double stops. You have to make a decision for that guitar: free floating OR double stops.
One more myth if you can answer please. The ground on a Floyd is on the claw. So, do we scrape off the coating on the ends of the springs, to let the ground conduct? The coating does not let the metal-to-metal ground connect.
Using just the one A string to tune with…!?! What about the tuning relationship of the other strings as the claw is adjusted…? All the strings interact…
Yes - using the A will bring you back to your starting point of being level to the body. Everything was in tune at "ground zero" - follow the A back to ground zero. IF you get the A exact, all will be the same as they were at ground zero. If you need to fine tune a touch, that is ok, your bridge will be in the proper position.
I use FU tone springs. This is basic, basic info anyone with a floyd rose should know. Honestly, if your not going to float your floyd or are incapable... just walk away. I get tired of little girls talking about how hard it is to string, tune, float a floyd.... suck it up buttercup. Floyd's are a labor of LOVE. Locking tuners on a floyd are called overkill but I have gotoh locking tuners and a floyd original and I can restring it in 20 minutes...
reposting from your other video on springs: i would like to discuss noiseless springs. i don't think i understand the need for noiseless. there is a difference between spring rattle and spring vibration. spring vibration is a byproduct of string vibration, fundamental in making an instrument gain in resonance, this is, the harmonic output of the instrument. now, spring rattle, that buzzy kind of sound produced by a bad fit between the claw and the springs, that is undesirable, but that is avoided by having a proper setup, not only with noiseless springs. noiseless springs have a tradeoff: no spring rattle, but no apparent spring vibration either, whereas "vintage" or traditional springs will have perceptible vibration. by adjusting spring tension, springs can be tuned, too, and this enhances harmonic output. for instance, my strat has three springs, two of which are -/+10 cents away from E when properly set up. this makes it so that every E note i play, be it chords or single notes, sound harmonically rich, as in the E notes instantly generate overtones: the subsequent harmonics of the fundamental E. but you can tune it to whatever your springs allow: this will depend on the spring mass. this, i believe, is no secret for floating trem users, at least on an intuitive level. so why renounce to the full harmonic potential of the guitar?? it truly is a beautiful experience, to fine tune your guitar for harmonic output, and to hear that resonance in play. it is bliss, it is truly graceful. i would never want to take that away from my guitar.
FU-TONE just went to the top of my list. Thank you for sharing that information since nobody else seam to know a damn thing about trem springs
Well said!!!
Great video man, explained nicely & easy to understand what your talking about, I just ordered some white springs from you guys last week and looking forward to testing them out and the difference it makes 🤘🇦🇺
You. Are. The. Man. Thank you so much for these videos.
Awesome videos, man! I'll be asking for a few of these for Christmas in addition to the brass big block for my Ibanez 420EG.
I finally bought some springs for my guitars! I've been using your big blocks for years so I figured why not, plus my spring reverb/rattle has recently been really bothering me.
Today is May 11th and I dropped my 1988 Charvel Model 5FX off with Adam Reiver to add a brass block, brass claw, and noiseless springs. Adam is the nicest guy in the world, and Godfather of Tone
very very helpful regarding the floating bridge and tuning!
Came to find tips on how to choose the right spring tension for your setup. Not sure if low tension yellow is the best bet for strat, red higher tension, etc. Guess it doesn't matter since you're adjusting by claw? And if that's the case, why offer so many different tensions?
Yo Adam just subbed , can't wait for my FU tone upgrade kit .
UA-cam must’ve heard my springs ringing, because I was just lookin at my springs thinkin these things gotta go, then I push refresh and this shows up in my recommendations .. lol
Nice! Here is the new link: www.fu-tone.com/product-category/spring-upgrades/
Love you guys, so helpfull with my trem!!
oh nice, i learned something today!
My Floyd Rose 1500 feels very stiff to use, it's set up correctly and stays in tune very well. Can different springs make it easier to use the bar? if so, which ones? thanks
Thanks for the video; hugely helpful. What is the advantage of using the yellow springs vs red springs?
hello Adam, i talked to you on the phone and you recommended the correct brass block i was looking for, looks beautiful sounds great, easy installation. my question is right now i am using two springs on the back , i guess i could use three low tension springs or two if i want to order the quiet coated springs?
great vid adam....watched many of them in the past,,,,,,are those springs made by schaller for the original floyd,,,,going to order these for all of my jacksons...
the way i did this was to block the rear vs the front . floyd rose level , loosened the spring tension a bit , all strings in perfect tune then held the gutiar so the spring side faced the ground .. then very slowly snugged my spring tension alternating between the screws until thew block fell out .. and was usually spot on at this point
my block was a pair of lineman's pliers the common type used by electricians .so the weight of the thick steel aided in the block falling out at just the right moment
Very good! Same principal to skin the same cat - well done!
Cant wait to try the springs. But im wondering why that guitar was flopping around like that when laying flat on the table. Is the body twisted?
Would the noiseless springs interfere with the benefits of a brass claw?
One more thing to clarify for me please. All the different color springs use the same gage wire, and coil size. It is the length of them that makes the difference of the tension...correct?
Just bought a block for my PRS SE. I'm looking forward to upgrade the hell out of that bridge.
I use 09 to 42 string gauge...Red springs? (I personally prefer 4 now as I rarely use the tremolo with dive bombs...)
Great vid Adam!! Just came across it.
Thanks Ben!
Another question that may have already been answered. So, the trem stopper doesn’t necessarily have to be installed in the center? I use 3 springs and my OCD forces me to put them evenly spaced and straight. 😂 Also, is it best to put it closest to the wound string side or the unwound string (trem bar) side or does it matter? Thanks!
Hello sir, I was looking to buy a set of these, but I am wondering what color to buy. It’s for a 7 string in which I use 4 springs as 3 will not work in standard or dropped A tuning. From what I understand the sets come with 3 springs instead of the usual 5 that would come out of factory. So i was wondering if it would be similar or at least good enough tension if I got the red or even purple set. I guess the question is more, would 3 red or 3 purple equal 4 regular Floyd rose springs, or at least close enough that I could use only 3 springs on a 7 string? Anyway, I would really appreciate if you had any insight on that. Thanks!
do you have noiseless springs for the TramKing Bridge??
He's exactly right. If you want less springs in the cavity then use the red high tension springs.
I find with 3 regular springs and 9 gauge strings to be awesome with a floating floyd, the sensitity is perfect for a top mounted floyd to do short pullpups/pushdowns without the whammy being too tight.
Setting up a floyd is really not rocket science once you understand how to use it. And once the strings are stretched and the nut is clamped and the floyd is level to the body, it is superior to a guitar with just locking tuners.
Locking tuners can still slip, but with locking the strings at the not they will not slip. So when you wake up in the morning and see if your guitar is still in tune, it probably is.
The original floyd rose is also superior to the licensed models in feel and build quality. It is the most comfortable bridge on the hand, it feels like nothings in the way...
Now I understand why a lot of big name artists still use the floyd that was created in the 80's.
Yeah, I’m so used to my 1984 Kramer with a Floyd, I got spoiled. Rarely had to tune it. Now the last couple of Jackson’s I bought, neither stays in tune that well. The Jackson Floyd is better than the Floyd rose licensed one on the more expensive guitar.
I’m assuming he would adjust the other screw accordingly as well? Plus, it wasn’t in tune after either of his adjustments. So you would still have to go back-and-forth several times to get it in tune. 🤘🏻🎸
@@heyjarrod the knife edge quality is a big factor, i had a german floyd that was rock solid if it was set up properly but to be honest ill never buy a floating bridge again
What springs would I need for a 11-56 gauge in D standard with a 25.5 scale length?
Thank you guys.
If the tension on the bridge doesn't matter once tuned why don't all the strings have the same tension then? Is that for Guitars who don't have a long enough tension screw or something? Also does the action stay the same when you change to a different tension string and retune?
Well then, looks like I'm going on a little shopping spree now... lol. I just had to pull 2 springs from my Schecter Damian FR to use in my 99 Warlock NJ series, cuz the springs aren't tense enough to balance out the new strings, so I'm at least snagging some heavy duties, for sure!
The real spring question is: "Normaly", there are the 3 standard FR springs in it, when I replace them with...let´s say...2 harder red springs, I have to equal/ballance the claw as in the video, BUT does this change the ease of movement of the Floyd? I hate it being cumbersome, I want it to be smooth!
Hey nice video. Do you know if these springs can be used on a PRS that has a trem (even though it’s not a Floyd)? Because I’m getting lots of resonance from the springs that are in it.
Yes - you can use these on your PRS trem. You can also upgrade the block in there! My PRS blocks are here: www.fu-tone.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103
FU - TONE nice!
Great video, very usful! Whats that guitar?
very helpful thanks
How do I use these without it breaking the ground (which goes to the claw). Do I need to scrape the polymer off the springs where they attach to claw and block?
Nope - already done for you - does not break the ground. Thanks!
hello Adam awesome videos i have a ibanez jem and have 3 springs but the claw screws are almost all the way to the body and thats where the edge bridge lies at zero and almost parallel to the body would i need a more tension shorter springs to have me back off the and have more play room if so what color would work best? thank you
yes - I would go up to Red and experiment.
I'm new at this. For my floyd rose I don't want too much tension so if I block my bridge (it's floating) use 9's, and use 2 springs (EVH) which springs will work best?
Use 2 reds - set the tension with the claw where it is just enough tension to hold the bridge in place.
do you have anything that might make my tremolo flutter like a fucking well mounted german floyd rose built. the edge gets close on its own but my shit wares out or something
I have a Schecter USA DJ Ashba signature guitar, with an EVH D-tuna, tuned to D standard so I can also have drop C. 11-54 Ernie Ball strings, which springs should I use and what pattern? The pattern is most interesting because I don’t understand the different ones people use.
The short answer is yes you can - go with purple springs. However - setting the Dtuna for drop C will require some modification - email me and I will take you through it. adam@fu-tone.com
How to order sir?im from the philippines.
What tension would you recommend for a 25.5 scale length standard tuning with 9's?
Maybe just standard tension springs.
How does employing this method compensate / allow for the bridge being level to the body?
Sorry for the delay - watch it again. the whole thing is about just this. Set it level blocked - add extra tension - doe setup - remove block - adjust tension while tuning A string with the spring tension (which leads you back to level) - - - email me if you have issues. adam@fu-tone.com
My go updated evh guitars 2013 Japanese model and evh 78 sd custom pickup
So if I read you right, there is no perceived tension difference at the bar once you're floated at zero point...2 heavy springs can be equal to 3 medium or even 4 -5 light springs once the claw has adjusted things back to zero-point float.Like saying what weights more a pound of feathers, a pound of rocks or a pound of water?
YES!!! That is the real answer!
I personally use the red ones, i have a 9-46, e-e and a 56 on my 7th string, i had 2 of the purples in there and even though the tension was the same it wasnt as smooth for dives, pull back on the bar were not the same either , i had 3 yellows in it before those and they were much longer total length but much more smooth, however i ran into tuning stability with that string set, the reds length and tension seem to work best for my feel
I guess the question is how the bar tension is affected when using 2 or 3 or 4 springs.. i.e if I'm using 2 springs to float vs 4 strings to float (both achievable at the optimum claw depth) - how is the flutter, tuning stability and resistance when diving affected ?
Also, it would be awesome if you can provide some of of relative tension numbers for each of the spring types you offer ...
Watch again - If you float the bridge level to the body - the tension will be the same with any combination of springs and positions. It will require the same amount of overall spring tension no matter what to hold against your string gauge and tuning.
Thanks, I get that bit... :)
Using 2 or 4 strings is not the point of contention here - as long as the spring tension = string tension, one can float the bridge parallel to the body after adjusting the claw when using 2 or 4 springs.. Let me try to ask the same question in a different way:
What are the pros/cons If I use 2 spring to balance the bridge vs. using 4 springs to balance the bridge:
- is it harder to dive considering I'm stretching 4 strings vs. 2 strings?
- how is the flutter effected? will the fluttering sound be more sustained when using 2 springs?
- etc.
I hope I've explained the question a bit better..
Yes - understood - thanks for clarifying. The difference in marginal to none (with tension and flutter). With everything having to do with taste, I suggest that you try both to see for yourself. Start with 2 springs - play for a bit. add a third spring and adjust the claw - play. Add the fourth, adjust claw. Very simple experiment. Find your comfort zone!
I like it 👍
I like the way traditional springs work. Its like reverb build into the guitar. Its never been something that I didn't like.
Thats the beauty of chasing tone! It is all selective and whatever sounds good to you - IS GOOD! I would suggest checking out some other FU-Tone product such as the Big Blocks or Saddle Inserts. Thanks for watching Tom and thanks for taking the time to comment!
When you're tightening the claw to find the A are you just tightening one screw or both with equal turns? What if you find the A whole just screwing in one of the screws?
Excellent question - I alternate between both screws.
@@FloydUpgrades is it all right for one of the sides to be off a turn? Shouldn't they be equal and level.
@@dash4786 It is totally fine!
what about doing double stops , floating with 10s - will it stay in pitch ?
Anything floating is not the environment for proper double stops. You can add my trem stopper (making your bridge dive only) and then you can do double stops. You have to make a decision for that guitar: free floating OR double stops.
would your A string tuning method work on a 7 string?
Yes!
Great tip
Awesome 👏
So,which springs do i need to have to make my floyd more soft and more easily diving and squealing?do i need to have 2 or 3 springs?thanks!
Use two for a softer touch or three for a tighter touch. The only difference will be the feel of your trem. Hope that helps.
One small difference is more springs will have a better, quicker return to zero.
Strat Killer thank you very much!!!
@@drum206 sure... no problem
Just use shrink tube I have for years does the same job
what kind of springs would you use for a 7 string with 10 to 56 strings on it?
Purple!
crap...i ordered the red ones. will they hold up okay?
One more myth if you can answer please. The ground on a Floyd is on the claw. So, do we scrape off the coating on the ends of the springs, to let the ground conduct? The coating does not let the metal-to-metal ground connect.
The contact points on these springs has the bare metal to make the ground loop. (Excellent question!)
@@FloydUpgrades Perfect! I had always scraped the ends on the other brand.
what spring color and number of springs i'll need if i want to use an EVH D-tuna and a Rockinger Black Box to tune in D standard to Drop C?
Depends on string gauge and scale as well. Email direct tech questions to adam@fu-tone.com
i use Daddario NYXL 11-52 for D standard and my guitar is a regular 25.5 inch scale length Jackson X Series Kelly KEX
You can use the red or purple. I would start with 2 purple and go to 3 need be.
ok, and i can still dive up or down with that springs and the back box, right?!
Yes!
Does the type/gauge of the springs affects the flutter effect? Is it better with lower tension?
Have you figured it out yet ? Reading different comments about this....
Using just the one A string to tune with…!?!
What about the tuning relationship of the other strings as the claw is adjusted…?
All the strings interact…
Yes - using the A will bring you back to your starting point of being level to the body. Everything was in tune at "ground zero" - follow the A back to ground zero. IF you get the A exact, all will be the same as they were at ground zero. If you need to fine tune a touch, that is ok, your bridge will be in the proper position.
FU - TONE What about the other strings? I mean instead of A could I do the same thing with say the G or D string?
Put the mic right up the middle next time. Thanks for posting.
Don't move the mic, just record in mono. If it's still off, center it in post.
Can you get these on Amazon?
No - www.fu-tone.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=74
Just put some rubber tubing or any other noise absorbing material in your own springs.
I use FU tone springs. This is basic, basic info anyone with a floyd rose should know. Honestly, if your not going to float your floyd or are incapable... just walk away. I get tired of little girls talking about how hard it is to string, tune, float a floyd.... suck it up buttercup. Floyd's are a labor of LOVE. Locking tuners on a floyd are called overkill but I have gotoh locking tuners and a floyd original and I can restring it in 20 minutes...
reposting from your other video on springs: i would like to discuss noiseless springs. i don't think i understand the need for noiseless. there is a difference between spring rattle and spring vibration. spring vibration is a byproduct of string vibration, fundamental in making an instrument gain in resonance, this is, the harmonic output of the instrument. now, spring rattle, that buzzy kind of sound produced by a bad fit between the claw and the springs, that is undesirable, but that is avoided by having a proper setup, not only with noiseless springs. noiseless springs have a tradeoff: no spring rattle, but no apparent spring vibration either, whereas "vintage" or traditional springs will have perceptible vibration.
by adjusting spring tension, springs can be tuned, too, and this enhances harmonic output. for instance, my strat has three springs, two of which are -/+10 cents away from E when properly set up. this makes it so that every E note i play, be it chords or single notes, sound harmonically rich, as in the E notes instantly generate overtones: the subsequent harmonics of the fundamental E. but you can tune it to whatever your springs allow: this will depend on the spring mass. this, i believe, is no secret for floating trem users, at least on an intuitive level. so why renounce to the full harmonic potential of the guitar?? it truly is a beautiful experience, to fine tune your guitar for harmonic output, and to hear that resonance in play. it is bliss, it is truly graceful. i would never want to take that away from my guitar.
Shhhhpring!
The balance is nearly all left ear.
When you cranked up the claw I saw the neck bow. I’m eight months a guitarist, so that looked a little scary.
Wish I saw this video before I bought the Red springs from Floyd Rose.....
HA - yeah... The knockoff junk is just that...