wish I would have found you years ago, saved me a lot of money on shady contractors, I could have done myself with your knowledge. Thank you for detailed instructions
Great instructional video, well done, clear instructions. Scraped popcorn from the ceilings in our 1937 lath & plaster home. Discovered why they used the acoustic, to cover all the cracks! Just finished final paint, the ceilings look great…not perfect, but that is part of the character of an older home, it’s imperfections. Your video was very helpful. And before anyone comments, yes, I had the acoustic tested for asbestos before scraping.
Fab thanks, after removing wallpaper I discovered deep holes around my windows and crumbling plaster but after watching this I'm going to do it myself. Love the photos at the end showing the finished project - it looks awesome :)
Thanks Ron! We live in Phila. and our house was built in the late 1930's! Our darling children have made a few holes in the plaster ;o) so here I am. Looking forward to pretty walls again! Yay! an excuse to repaint!
Thank you; My front door ceiling found some rain. roof concrete shingles got covered with leaves over many years. the drip actually ate through the 5/8 sheet rock/ exposed the sanded finish layer. Still drying out the roof plywood
I have just done some extensive wallpaper removal and discovered plaster walls! Lots of chipping and cracking in the corners. This video is literally the only one I found that answered my questions! Thank you for making this.
Thanks for this video, Ron! I watched this over two years ago right before I moved into my grandpa's 1870 farm house. I used the tips you gave in this video to make minor repairs to the plaster walls (even had to scrape off some 1880s wallpaper to get to some of the plaster!). You explained things well enough for me to follow and your strategies worked well for getting the job done. Now, two years later, the repairs are still looking good.
@@tannertoys hey Ron great video If you have a inside corner would you use paper tape or a metal corner ? I have about a 1.5” gap in the corner with Nothing behind it to make a solid corner Any advice would be much appreciated
thank you because i have the same type of project going on as we speak and i was kind of stuck on how to repair the same type of holes. i have my list of materials i need and now i can get to finishing up this project
Just moved into a house with plaster walls, and I've been wondering how to go about fixing the numerous little holes from previous wall mountings and pictures, as well as fixing the pantry. This is a good guide, I think I can attempt some of them with confidence now.
Well Ron, thank you. I will now stop procrastinating on the rest of the incredible work needed on my big old house. You helped break down a huge job with your clear and precise instructions. I was once married to a drywall plaster guy and he always made it harder for me to follow his way of doing this or any type of work. God bless you... I can do this!
Thank you for this! I tore down old panelling in my dining room and my walls look EXACTLY like this and I love doing stuff myself. I am confident that I will be able to now!
You need mesh on the 1st coat it will crack garenteed .no need the sprayer the durabond already has the water in the mix .if you're whole wall is cracked then Base coat with 45 min add stucco mesh then float with 90 min mud .just from experience save you the agravation .
Great info Ron I've been restoring an old thirteen century British farm house plenty of laths and lime plaster with the horse hair in it, both on walls and ceilings, it's been a real learning curve as I'm a brick layer, a real nightmare at times as lime plaster can take a while to dry, had to use the lime because of keeping the breathability in the buildings structure.
Great info, I've been working on my old house for 30 years and its still a work in progress. Your video is easy to follow and covers everything from start to finish thank you so much Shirley J
This is an absolutely wonderful video. I very much appreciate how thoroughly you covered the topic. Your instructions are very easy to follow. Thank you!
Thank you great video and very informative. We have a listed building and have been let down by a really bad builder. I think you have just given me the confidence to do some of the repair work myself.
I watch your video on how to fix wall in a old house. and i was very surprize that you did the same walls i have? Iam doing a room that all it had was wall paper under paint .O.M.G. what a mess, now I have the same wall you show on your video.what Iam trying to say is your video was very helpful to me because Iam doing this work all by myself.and I know it will come out the same way you did your wall. and also I like fixing, learning and painting. and I do A Good job !
Ron, this video is awesome! It was super helpful to me, first timer, because you set up the expectations by giving a list of materials needed first thing, then you showed step by step and I got it right! So thank you! The water spray really makes a difference....can you please show a video on how to restore a very old stair railing handle?
Thanks Patricia: All you need to do with that railing is sand it (100 grit, then 150 or 200 grit), stain it (test the stain on the underside first), then polyurethane it (satin).
Brilliant I am in the process of stripping my living room walls and also found this very informative will be looking at more of your videos you make it look so simple...;Thanks!!!
Very clear instructions. Much appreciated. I’m not so anxious about patching my ceiling now. You’ve explained so many existing problems I have to repair.
Thanks for a great tutorial. I am struggling to find an available plasterer here in Devon, UK but your video has given me confidence to make the repairs myself (unless you fancy doing it for me :) ?
It's till recommended to tape your seams, and what you finished with is actually taping mud. That stuff doesn't sand easily and doesn't take paint as well, in my opinion. Finish with blue lid mud. Softer easier to sand and takes paint well.
Thank you for sharing a very informative video! We love your approach and the very clear description of the process, not to mention the video quality was great! We hope to learn from your other videos. - John & Terry
Thanks! I took out a hideous faux-rock fireplace and am plastering the wall above the firebox. Made a few holes, I'm afraid. The spray bottle is a great tip. I don't have lath. I used some old ceramic fiber blanket ( made my own raku kiln as well) to fill in the bigger dents on the drywall since it was near the chimney.
Hey, use a few of the methods on the video. Worked a treat to fix a few holes and issues i had. Thanks alot for the video and tips throughout. great works. Thumbs up.
Great technique for the "Adobe" finish, here in So Cal we call that a mission finish, I've tried to match that texture with taping knives. Next time I will try the hawk and swimming pool trowel. Thanks
Thank you for making this super easy to understand and accomplish Ron! We just bought an old Victorian and it has wallpaper on nearly ever wall. If you have an tips for wallpaper removal, I'd be so grateful!
Thanks Ron! Fantastic tips! My wife and I just bought a Victorian house (late 1800s) here in England that has this type of plaster, it seems to be called "Horse hair, lyme and batton" here. Some other Amercian vs English too we call 'sheet Rock' 'plaster board' 😁🤓👍 it all reads across and makes sense though. Great info Thank you! 🤓👍
thanks mate that looks more real than a lot of stuff i seen where they are working to perfection...the house im working at the moment is messy and lots of jagged holes...i was going to cut perfect but not worth it too many holes in ceiling about 40...so im gonna do like you did...and use jagged pieces and just get them filled ....one question can i use bonding coat instead of joint compound ..is it the same thing..im from the uk
Great video ! I have holes in plaster in a home we just purchased but the wall have many layers of paint on them as oppose to the wall you have on video. Should I prep the wall surrounding the hole with a bounding agent. Thanks
well done and much appreciated instructional video. I have a 100 year old house in AZ, one bathroom with a water-damaged plaster-on-block wall around a sink that I want to repair. Plaster is crumbling off near the shower, and paint is curling off the plaster wall in other areas. It must not have been primed before painting. How far would I have to go in chipping away the crumbling plaster and removing the paint? I am wondering if to do it properly, I would have to tackle the entire wall and start with the bare block underneath. Do you have tips for me in re-plastering and painting, in this scenario?
I would need more info -- and photos -- to answer your question accurately , Hillary. First, make sure there's no more water intrusion into the wall. The paint is peeling because of moisture in the wall. Once you've taken care of the water intrusion problem, then you have to let the wall dry out. Then you'd have to chip away the loose plaster to see what holds and what falls away. If you must start from the block, then your first layer of plaster should be what is called a "rough coat" -- that's coarse plaster used as a base.
Hey great video, depending on how you mix 20 min mud you can recoat in about 15-30 mins, the drier the mix is the quicker it will dry. Too dry and it will fall out of the patch. I've been working with the stuff for a long time now. Plasterer/painter with years of experience.
Thanks for showing how to reinforce lath that has been vertically severed. Everyone shows how to cut holes in plaster and lath but they never mention this part.
This was incredibly helpful! The apartment in which I live is very old and has had the worst patch-up jobs done, so I'm stripping all of the old paint, repairing the huge gaping holes, and repatching the old outdated, half-assed work that was done before. At least the next time they decide tpo put this place up for rent the new renters don't have to deal with the crap I have!
Thanks for this video!!! I'm getting ready to remove wallpaper and patch up some of the walls in my house. Would a primer like Kilz be enough to get some pitting out of the walls or should I skimcoat the whole wall with joint compound?
I don't know if anyone has already said it but , when putting a new piece behind the open hole in the wall it helps to put a screw in the middle of the piece to give you something to hold onto , easier then dropping 136 4" pieces of wood into your wall.
13:00 My inclination has always been to butter the back of the Sheetrock patch with joint compound; this make for a more solid patch and might even make the screws un-necessary. If there is wood or metal lath, it will also key to patch to the old lath and keep the joints from flexing an possible cracking.
No, you want it screwed as a cracked area is subject to movement. Movement can crack the compound you attach it to the laths with. Screws take 10 seconds to put in and remove this chance.
Ron, i had some sandy surface behind the crumbling top-coats i scraped off on an interior staircase, whole thing supposedly due to bad tuckpointing on the outside many years ago. The local shops told me no need to prime the sand, just mud it, then prime, then paint. Well i did that, and the mud just came falling right back off when i tried to roll the primer. So next time i followed my gut (like i should have the first time) and primed the sand with oil-based primer, then plastered, then primed again, and everything seems better this way. Thing is, for future reference, i read some articles and comment sections saying you shouldn't use oil-based primer or pva's or glue under or over your plaster, 'cuz it won't let it breath...plaster needs to breath' etc etc. So did i ruin this guys wall in the long-term, even though it looks find and solid now, and secondly, what is this sandy surface under the crumbling plaster anyways? i've found it on multiple buildings and homes now around town here in the midwest, and even the local painters, handymen and drywallers i ask from time to time don't really seem to know or care what it is. if you know, thanks (i think a lot of these are 1880 to 1920 buildings). p.s. just so you get a better idea, it's literally like a normal beachsand colored sand color, and no matter how much you keep scraping over the same area getting the blistered paint and crumbly plaster off, it always feels loose and grainy, you can't really ever smooth it down completely.
Mr. Ron Tanner: Excellent teaching. I will say to the point: "I had a Roof Leak from a person on my Condominium, this caused a Restoration Firm to fix up my Kitchen, Living Room Wall!" I took down wallpaper in Master Bathroom. Cleaned all dried glue. Washed walls with damp sponge after. Let dry for 3 days. Then Primed all walls. Again I let stand for a week. Then painted. It actually came out Beautiful. My question is: My Air Conditioner sits in My Laundry Room. The Hose, which is connected to wall, is beginning to separate. Should I Cement this area of wall to look healthy? Then paint? TY!
Sir..U have made the whole process look very simple and interesting...Can u suggest Which drill to be used.. ..Wot things to be considered before buying a drill... That can be used as well for wood diy projects tooo... Thanks...Lots of respect
Hi Ron, this is the best I've seen on plaster wall reparation. I have a 203 yr old brick home with plaster walls and an interior corner gap ranging from 1.5" - 3" wide. Any helpful suggestions on how to repair it would be appreciated.
Take some wallboard (sheetrock) and slice it to fit the crevice. Cram it in (try to keep the paper intact) until you have only a small depression. Then plaster over that. It might. take 2-3 plasterings (layers--let each dry before starting a new layer). That's the easiest way.
Thank you for this video, Ron! I’m a housewife trying to fix the plaster walls in my old house myself. I’ve been scraping away paint that has badly bubbled in some places to reveal bare plaster underneath. There are orangish spots on the plaster-do I have to remove those? I heard another UA-camr say you have to but this is making the job more overwhelming for me.
Hi, Sherry: I'm not sure what the orange spots are. They could be rust stains from deposits in the original plaster. I'd say this: if these spots aren't fuzzy or protruding (which could be a kind of mold), and if these spots are not crumbling, then you can plaster over them. Before plastering, you could coat them with stain-blocking primer (paint), like Zinsser or Kilz. Best of luck with your project!
Quick, to the point and simple! Thank you Ron & Jill!
wish I would have found you years ago, saved me a lot of money on shady contractors, I could have done myself with your knowledge. Thank you for detailed instructions
I just bought an old house and this has saved my life! I have no idea what I'm doing.
Wonderful! Thank you, Ron. This 115 year old house has lots of places to patch.
Thanks, Barbara -- glad this was of use!
Great instructional video, well done, clear instructions. Scraped popcorn from the ceilings in our 1937 lath & plaster home. Discovered why they used the acoustic, to cover all the cracks! Just finished final paint, the ceilings look great…not perfect, but that is part of the character of an older home, it’s imperfections. Your video was very helpful. And before anyone comments, yes, I had the acoustic tested for asbestos before scraping.
Awesome. The condition of the walls in this video and my new knowledge of how to fix them, gives me confidence to tackle my own.
Thank you , from my old house! It’s just the vid I’ve been looking for.
You are a lifesaver ❗️
Thank you for your video and all the great tips !!!
Fab thanks, after removing wallpaper I discovered deep holes around my windows and crumbling plaster but after watching this I'm going to do it myself. Love the photos at the end showing the finished project - it looks awesome :)
Thanks Ron! We live in Phila. and our house was built in the late 1930's! Our darling children have made a few holes in the plaster ;o) so here I am. Looking forward to pretty walls again! Yay! an excuse to repaint!
Thank you; My front door ceiling found some rain. roof concrete shingles got covered with leaves over many years. the drip actually ate through the 5/8 sheet rock/ exposed the sanded finish layer. Still drying out the roof plywood
I have just done some extensive wallpaper removal and discovered plaster walls! Lots of chipping and cracking in the corners. This video is literally the only one I found that answered my questions! Thank you for making this.
Thank you !!
Thanks for this video, Ron! I watched this over two years ago right before I moved into my grandpa's 1870 farm house. I used the tips you gave in this video to make minor repairs to the plaster walls (even had to scrape off some 1880s wallpaper to get to some of the plaster!). You explained things well enough for me to follow and your strategies worked well for getting the job done. Now, two years later, the repairs are still looking good.
Thanks for the update, Michael -- and congratulations on a job well done!
@@tannertoys hey Ron great video
If you have a inside corner would you use paper tape or a metal corner ?
I have about a 1.5” gap in the corner with Nothing behind it to make a solid corner
Any advice would be much appreciated
I had the same issue and used a metal corner. Turned out great!
thank you because i have the same type of project going on as we speak and i was kind of stuck on how to repair the same type of holes. i have my list of materials i need and now i can get to finishing up this project
You are very charismatic and it's so encouraging, I'm subscribing
Perfect tutorial !!! I had no idea how,,,,but now do !! Thank you Sir for taking the time to post this !!!!!
Just moved into a house with plaster walls, and I've been wondering how to go about fixing the numerous little holes from previous wall mountings and pictures, as well as fixing the pantry. This is a good guide, I think I can attempt some of them with confidence now.
Thank you kindly for the clear instruction. As a landlord, this is very helpful with minor repairs in my units.
Well Ron, thank you. I will now stop procrastinating on the rest of the incredible work needed on my big old house. You helped break down a huge job with your clear and precise instructions. I was once married to a drywall plaster guy and he always made it harder for me to follow his way of doing this or any type of work. God bless you... I can do this!
This guy is amazing, lovely smile and friendly approach, his name Ron reminds me of Ron Swanson, but a less intimidating version.
Thank you for this! I tore down old panelling in my dining room and my walls look EXACTLY like this and I love doing stuff myself. I am confident that I will be able to now!
I'm currently doing this to my own home and my brother recommended watching your videos. Great tips and thank you!
You need mesh on the 1st coat it will crack garenteed .no need the sprayer the durabond already has the water in the mix .if you're whole wall is cracked then Base coat with 45 min add stucco mesh then float with 90 min mud .just from experience save you the agravation .
I am excited to strip the wall paper and patch the plaster walls in a room very similar as the room here. Thanks Ron.
Great info Ron I've been restoring an old thirteen century British farm house plenty of laths and lime plaster with the horse hair in it, both on walls and ceilings, it's been a real learning curve as I'm a brick layer, a real nightmare at times as lime plaster can take a while to dry, had to use the lime because of keeping the breathability in the buildings structure.
Build up the corner with layers of plaster, then use a metal corner over it, feathering new plaster to its edges. Best if luck with your project!
Thank you for this demonstratioon, very useful
Great info, I've been working on my old house for 30 years and its still a work in progress. Your video is easy to follow and covers everything from start to finish thank you so much Shirley J
Brilliant, very helpful. I could watch this kind of thing all day long, very envious of your skill.
This is an absolutely wonderful video. I very much appreciate how thoroughly you covered the topic. Your instructions are very easy to follow. Thank you!
Thank you kind Sir! Extremely helpful to repair my walls in my old home.
Glad to help
This was the best video of its kind. Very helpful. Thank you very much.
Awesome information! ...have watched this multiple times!
Thank you for sharing honey!
Thank you so much for this. You've just made me feel a whole lot better and more confident about fixing the wall I have just created huge holes in!
London calling: excellent stuff. Making good chasing work. Feel oodles more confident!
Great Video. Will be using some of your techniques on a portion of our 160 year old hotel.
Thank you great video and very informative. We have a listed building and have been let down by a really bad builder. I think you have just given me the confidence to do some of the repair work myself.
Excellent video. So very helpful
I watch your video on how to fix wall in a old house. and i was very surprize that you did the same walls i have? Iam doing a room that all it had was wall paper under paint .O.M.G. what a mess, now I have the same wall you show on your video.what Iam trying to say is your video was very helpful to me because Iam doing this work all by myself.and I know it will come out the same way you did your wall. and also I like fixing, learning and painting. and I do A Good job !
Love all these old homes up to the late forties the dimensions the materials the skills
Thank you. Planning my wall repairs and your video is very helpful
Great little video, Very helpful! Love the little personal reel at the end too.
Thank yooouuu for going through all these knotty problems for us!! I had been searching & searching for this type of vid.
You are so welcome!
Thanx for the emphasis on doing this in layers. I know me and,i would have slapped that stuff on in one application.
Ron, this video is awesome! It was super helpful to me, first timer, because you set up the expectations by giving a list of materials needed first thing, then you showed step by step and I got it right! So thank you! The water spray really makes a difference....can you please show a video on how to restore a very old stair railing handle?
Thanks Patricia: All you need to do with that railing is sand it (100 grit, then 150 or 200 grit), stain it (test the stain on the underside first), then polyurethane it (satin).
Thank you thank you. This is just the kind of video I've been trying to find!
Brilliant I am in the process of stripping my living room walls and also found this very informative will be looking at more of your videos you make it look so simple...;Thanks!!!
Very clear instructions. Much appreciated. I’m not so anxious about patching my ceiling now. You’ve explained so many existing problems I have to repair.
Thanks for a great tutorial. I am struggling to find an available plasterer here in Devon, UK but your video has given me confidence to make the repairs myself (unless you fancy doing it for me :) ?
It's till recommended to tape your seams, and what you finished with is actually taping mud. That stuff doesn't sand easily and doesn't take paint as well, in my opinion. Finish with blue lid mud. Softer easier to sand and takes paint well.
Thanks, good advice! Though, my experience has shown that this "plaster" (joint compound) sands easily and takes paint well (start with primer)! 🙂
Thank you. Very helpful and informative and has given me the confidence to do the work myself.
This video has helped me out so much!!!! I cannot say thank you enough!
This was VERY helpful!! Thank you for all of your efforts!
This is the best video I have watched
Thanks!
Thankyou! I did a great job after watching this.
Good for you, Nancy!
sir, you are an angel sent. God bless you, kind sir! this is exactly all the tutorial I needed!
v1deov1deo hi
Thank you for sharing a very informative video! We love your approach and the very clear description of the process, not to mention the video quality was great! We hope to learn from your other videos. - John & Terry
I was able ro use ur technique and it worked out super well! Tx for your help...my client was very pleased
Great--thanks for letting me know!
PROFESSIONAL!!! also a very good VENTRILOQUIST.....hear the taking/explaining, but never seen your mouth move..lol. good job!
Thanks! I took out a hideous faux-rock fireplace and am plastering the wall above the firebox. Made a few holes, I'm afraid. The spray bottle is a great tip. I don't have lath. I used some old ceramic fiber blanket ( made my own raku kiln as well) to fill in the bigger dents on the drywall since it was near the chimney.
This video was very helpful. I feel like I'm ready to tackle the whole in the wall of my Hallway. Thanks for sharing!!
Hey, use a few of the methods on the video. Worked a treat to fix a few holes and issues i had. Thanks alot for the video and tips throughout. great works. Thumbs up.
This is the most helpful video! I feel like i can do this! Thank u:)
You can do it!
Super helpful! Beautiful end result.
thanks for the help. im now ready to fix my old walls! thanks!
thank you for posting this video. I found it very helpful
Ron- Good presentation. Thanks, helps alot.
This is a great tutorial!!! I have plaster walls so this may come handy some time Thank you!
Great technique for the "Adobe" finish, here in So Cal we call that a mission finish, I've tried to match that texture with taping knives. Next time I will try the hawk and swimming pool trowel. Thanks
Excellently done and explained. Thank you so much!
Thank you Ron . Very helpful . I was hesitant.
Thank you for making this super easy to understand and accomplish Ron! We just bought an old Victorian and it has wallpaper on nearly ever wall. If you have an tips for wallpaper removal, I'd be so grateful!
Fantastic!
Great job. I was worried about doing this kind of work. Thanks
Thanks Ron! Fantastic tips! My wife and I just bought a Victorian house (late 1800s) here in England that has this type of plaster, it seems to be called "Horse hair, lyme and batton" here. Some other Amercian vs English too we call 'sheet Rock' 'plaster board' 😁🤓👍 it all reads across and makes sense though.
Great info Thank you! 🤓👍
Thanks, Scott: Good luck with your house!
Thanks for posting this video. It is very helpful.
Thanks! This will save me a lot of time!
youre welcome. when you follow these tips and have to redo the job next year thank me again. love ron.
Great video filled with useful tips. Thanks!
thanks mate that looks more real than a lot of stuff i seen where they are working to perfection...the house im working at the moment is messy and lots of jagged holes...i was going to cut perfect but not worth it too many holes in ceiling about 40...so im gonna do like you did...and use jagged pieces and just get them filled ....one question can i use bonding coat instead of joint compound ..is it the same thing..im from the uk
Great video ! I have holes in plaster in a home we just purchased but the wall have many layers of paint on them as oppose to the wall you have on video. Should I prep the wall surrounding the hole with a bounding agent. Thanks
well done and much appreciated instructional video. I have a 100 year old house in AZ, one bathroom with a water-damaged plaster-on-block wall around a sink that I want to repair. Plaster is crumbling off near the shower, and paint is curling off the plaster wall in other areas. It must not have been primed before painting. How far would I have to go in chipping away the crumbling plaster and removing the paint? I am wondering if to do it properly, I would have to tackle the entire wall and start with the bare block underneath. Do you have tips for me in re-plastering and painting, in this scenario?
I would need more info -- and photos -- to answer your question accurately , Hillary. First, make sure there's no more water intrusion into the wall. The paint is peeling because of moisture in the wall.
Once you've taken care of the water intrusion problem, then you have to let the wall dry out. Then you'd have to chip away the loose plaster to see what holds and what falls away.
If you must start from the block, then your first layer of plaster should be what is called a "rough coat" -- that's coarse plaster used as a base.
You are a genius! Thanks for sharing you motivate me!!
Amazing work. Thanks!
Hey great video, depending on how you mix 20 min mud you can recoat in about 15-30 mins, the drier the mix is the quicker it will dry. Too dry and it will fall out of the patch. I've been working with the stuff for a long time now. Plasterer/painter with years of experience.
Great video tutorial. Thanks
Thanks for the excellent tutorial
Thanks for showing how to reinforce lath that has been vertically severed. Everyone shows how to cut holes in plaster and lath but they never mention this part.
This was incredibly helpful! The apartment in which I live is very old and has had the worst patch-up jobs done, so I'm stripping all of the old paint, repairing the huge gaping holes, and repatching the old outdated, half-assed work that was done before. At least the next time they decide tpo put this place up for rent the new renters don't have to deal with the crap I have!
STiiTCH how did it come out ? We have the same issue. Planning on doing the same thing.
Bike break gripping
Thanks for this video!!! I'm getting ready to remove wallpaper and patch up some of the walls in my house. Would a primer like Kilz be enough to get some pitting out of the walls or should I skimcoat the whole wall with joint compound?
Skim coat. Primer doesn't fill in rough areas. Good luck with your project!
Great demo and well explained, Ron. :-)
Thank you very much
You are the best
I don't know if anyone has already said it but , when putting a new piece behind the open hole in the wall it helps to put a screw in the middle of the piece to give you something to hold onto , easier then dropping 136 4" pieces of wood into your wall.
13:00 My inclination has always been to butter the back of the Sheetrock patch with joint compound; this make for a more solid patch and might even make the screws un-necessary. If there is wood or metal lath, it will also key to patch to the old lath and keep the joints from flexing an possible cracking.
No, you want it screwed as a cracked area is subject to movement. Movement can crack the compound you attach it to the laths with. Screws take 10 seconds to put in and remove this chance.
Ron, i had some sandy surface behind the crumbling top-coats i scraped off on an interior staircase, whole thing supposedly due to bad tuckpointing on the outside many years ago. The local shops told me no need to prime the sand, just mud it, then prime, then paint. Well i did that, and the mud just came falling right back off when i tried to roll the primer. So next time i followed my gut (like i should have the first time) and primed the sand with oil-based primer, then plastered, then primed again, and everything seems better this way. Thing is, for future reference, i read some articles and comment sections saying you shouldn't use oil-based primer or pva's or glue under or over your plaster, 'cuz it won't let it breath...plaster needs to breath' etc etc. So did i ruin this guys wall in the long-term, even though it looks find and solid now, and secondly, what is this sandy surface under the crumbling plaster anyways? i've found it on multiple buildings and homes now around town here in the midwest, and even the local painters, handymen and drywallers i ask from time to time don't really seem to know or care what it is. if you know, thanks (i think a lot of these are 1880 to 1920 buildings). p.s. just so you get a better idea, it's literally like a normal beachsand colored sand color, and no matter how much you keep scraping over the same area getting the blistered paint and crumbly plaster off, it always feels loose and grainy, you can't really ever smooth it down completely.
Thank you so much for this!
Mr. Ron Tanner: Excellent teaching. I will say to the point: "I had a Roof Leak from a person on my Condominium, this caused a Restoration Firm to fix up my Kitchen, Living Room Wall!" I took down wallpaper in Master Bathroom. Cleaned all dried glue. Washed walls with damp sponge after. Let dry for 3 days. Then Primed all walls. Again I let stand for a week. Then painted. It actually came out Beautiful. My question is: My Air Conditioner sits in My Laundry Room. The Hose, which is connected to wall, is beginning to separate. Should I Cement this area of wall to look healthy? Then paint? TY!
If I understand you, yes, secure that hose into the wall.
@@tannertoys I just received your answer. Thank You!
Great instructions 👍
Thank you House Love!!
fantastic video
Sir..U have made the whole process look very simple and interesting...Can u suggest Which drill to be used.. ..Wot things to be considered before buying a drill... That can be used as well for wood diy projects tooo... Thanks...Lots of respect
Hi Ron, this is the best I've seen on plaster wall reparation. I have a 203 yr old brick home with plaster walls and an interior corner gap ranging from 1.5" - 3" wide. Any helpful suggestions on how to repair it would be appreciated.
Take some wallboard (sheetrock) and slice it to fit the crevice. Cram it in (try to keep the paper intact) until you have only a small depression. Then plaster over that. It might. take 2-3 plasterings (layers--let each dry before starting a new layer). That's the easiest way.
@@tannertoys thanx Ron, sounds like that will do the trick!
Thank you for this video, Ron! I’m a housewife trying to fix the plaster walls in my old house myself. I’ve been scraping away paint that has badly bubbled in some places to reveal bare plaster underneath. There are orangish spots on the plaster-do I have to remove those? I heard another UA-camr say you have to but this is making the job more overwhelming for me.
Hi, Sherry: I'm not sure what the orange spots are. They could be rust stains from deposits in the original plaster. I'd say this: if these spots aren't fuzzy or protruding (which could be a kind of mold), and if these spots are not crumbling, then you can plaster over them. Before plastering, you could coat them with stain-blocking primer (paint), like Zinsser or Kilz. Best of luck with your project!
thank you --- good job. wish i have that skill.