2014 Hyundai Elantra Intermittent Stalling P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit
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- Опубліковано 28 лют 2018
- Symptoms : Stalling when coming to stops, tachometer quits working, long or extended crank time after stall, engine runs fine while accelerating.
Some engine design (like this one) will continue to run without the crank signal while other designs will not. Typical symptoms of a faulty crankshaft position sensor would be a no start.
This video may be used as a guide for how to test an inductive type cam or crank sensor. Other names applied to this type of input: Variable Reluctance Sensor, Magnetic Pulse Generator, Pick-up Coil
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Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC. - Авто та транспорт
Interesting story, I took my car in to the dealership and without a code they were unable to find the problem. I watch his video and mentioned it could be the crankshaft position sensor. They told me that without a code they couldn’t fix it. So 10 months down the road still having the issue and getting worse, I watch the UA-cam channel and quickly determined the sensor was failing. I haven’t had any issues we’re stalling yet.Thanks for the video, it was very informative
First, great video, secondly, I just recently became a premium member. Whether a person is a hobbyist or a pro, they should give themselves a gift and become a member of your premium channel. Your real world testing using the scope and the electrical schematic work is the without a doubt the best. I think its great that you take your time to teach as you troubleshoot, priceless. A million thanks to you!
I have the same problem. I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra. I appreciate y'all taking time out to help us without having to go to shop
Did you fix it
@@J.NX10realestateinvestorI sure did Thank to your video. GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS
My 2011 Hyundai Elantra would stall at a red light with the A/C running at first while it was really hot outside. It did it twice within 3 days without the engine light on. 2 days later it died again then the engine light came on. All 3 times the rmp needle would not move which confirmed that my car had the exact same issue. So I took it to the dealer and they confirmed that it was the crank sensor. They replaced it and haven’t had that issue since. Your video helped me narrow down the reason before going in to have it checked so thank you very much!!
There is always something to learn from your videos, like them very much.
A great video. You're right on point. The stalling happens more when it is hot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent video man! I've had this same issue on my 2012 Elantra 100k miles. First guy charged me 800 to replace wiring harness and re-wire (had to do it as I was stranded far from home on Thanksgiving and car wouldn't start). Kept happening and then dealership charged me another $250 to replace a difference sensor....still happening. Now I see this and realize a $25 part and about 30minutes of work will fix my car. I got ripped off!
I really appreciate your honesty in trying to troubleshoot this and prove what the issue was. I bet your customers love you. Keep up the good work. I wish my mechanic did videos on my car and prove the issues instead of wasting my money trying everything under the sun.
Thanks very much for the follow up text at the end indicating that the sensor failed the next day, was replaced by the dealer and problem has not returned. Very informative video!
Thank you so much for sharing this. My 2014 Elantra stalled out on me twice this week with no check engine lights on. What you shared is 100% duplicate of what i have been experiencing. I have been afraid to drive it and have racked my brain for days.
Great video Paul. I had a similar issue with a Saab 2001 CKP, it was great intermittent starts and died at idle. I removed the CKP sensor and heated up with a hair dryer, sure enough the resistance and changed drastically. Funny though, the San
B never registered a CKP sensor fault, I regard the Saab engine management system as very sophisticated, but "no code" huge surprise. Anyway changed the CKP sensor and everything fine now.
As always keep up the great videos Paul.
Glad I checked out your video. My vehicle started having this issue a couple of days ago. Took forever to start up, extremely limited power. To the point where I could floor it and only be hitting about 40. Ordering a part and hopefully, I can get it installed and fix this issue.
Ditto on my wife's 2013 gt
Nice work Paul.. Damn good diag work.. man this type of stuff happens to me all the time .. trying to recreate the fault of the component that you know is having issues but for some reason when it gets to your hands ..it acts all brand new..lol .. Have me scratching your head sometimes man.. Thank you for sharing brother... God Bless
great video! having the same issue with my own car wish i could of done it myself but still feeling better having the work done regardless now even if it cost me more. the update at the end of the video was great
Intermittents suck. You can fix things by touching them, you can break things by touching them, or of course the best one, the vehicle doesn’t act up when you have it. Great video Paul!
From Brunei with millions of thanks, been searching for answers and I happened to stumble on your video explaining the exact same symptoms on my wife's 2016 kia sportage. I had suspected the CKP earlier on from some internet sources and had it removed and cleaned(which i thought would fix the problem lol, and tried multiple times for it reoccur but it just wouldn't happen when i tested it but funny enough the car stalled multiple times when my wife drove for the past 2 weeks ago). So your video is clear enough for me to decide to just change the CKP. Again, thanks man. Subbed and liked!!
Your car pun kana this problem? Haha recently my Elantra pun kana masalah cemani. So its the crankshaft position sensor?
Thanks for the info, it’s really helpful.
This can work for a 2015 Veloster turbo as well, I had the same problem, I did the same you did and it works! You helped me saving $180.
2013 Hyundai Sante Fe with the EXACT same issues. Going to get this replaced asap. This video is great
This was very helpful. Thanks for the update at the end. My 2013 Elantra GT is experiencing the exact issues.
Excellent explanations and diagnosis. Mine Elantra showed same symptoms and it was the Crank sensor. Best part of this vid is the 300 mph driving speed.
The driving sequence stressed me out!
Yep, the 300 mph driving speed, it was ridiculous...
I just found video after searching for a while and taking Hyundai to 3 different mechanics, caliber automotive, Christian brothers, Hyundai dealership . Thank you sir
Paul I love how about 3:20 in you switch the key off and sort of whisper "let this power down for a second" as if speaking loudly will wake it. :)
Good info here, always learn something from you. Thanks for sharing
Scanner
I got rid of my 2012 elantra gls touring last week
Mechanics here in Omaha need you to train them !
Sensors will keep you employed forever !
Godbless
Wow. This bailed me out. Fixed same problem for Hyundai Elantra 2012 by changing the crankshaft. Mine was exact colour. Thanks Man. Kudos
How much was it to change the crankshaft? I have the same car and I'm stalling once or twice a week now even after replacing the fuel pump
Another great video my good man! Been subscribing to your channel since day 1, keep the video coming!
Thanks so much! That's been a long time now :-)
in fact u are de best teacher ever met online
I have a had a couple of this and the way I get them to act up is drive them for a couple of miles then let it sit for 20-30min and the sensor acts up no start no rpms on tac, Just had Elantra GT today that would actually die after I warmed up car up for about 15min swapped the sensor and fixed the problem, great vid!
Man yall drive fast there. I dig it.
proof of concept was there Paul,Cool so can still drive with a fully broken crank sensor, good engineering in my opinion.
Love the 'fast' tour of the area Paul. Don't apologize....sometimes all one can do is change the part out,: and we always come away from your videos with something learned!
May I suggest something? Have a can of CRC component freeze handy for jobs like this one.
It may help! 😄
This only happens to the car in the first 10 minutes of me turning it on for the day... Now I know what the problems thank you
Excellent video. My 2020 Elantra started exhibiting these symptoms after 125000 miles. Finally kicked the 335 code. Crankshaft sensor fixed it immediately
The car respects the "MASTER DIAGNOSTIC TECH".... where evil lurks...never fear... Danner is here. Great video, bro!
Lol
Oh, dead on and Thank you. You are an excellent and Honest mechanic.
Looked like a scene from Knight Rider on that test drive! lol As always I've learned something new. Great video.
Found this video, I think you've just saved my butt!! I am so thankful!!
I just had one of these on a 2012 jeep patriot 4x4. It was a fun time fighting to get to that sensor.
Very informative Paul, nice job.
I am currently having this issue. I was told it was my alternator shelled out 478 bucks if it. It’s still stalling. I greatly appreciate you uploading this informative video. It’s unnerving when it happens because sometimes it takes for ever to start
Does it crank normally? After the stall? Or do you need to jump start it? If it cranks normally, your alternator is not your problem. An alternator will not cause long crank times
Great Video. Sometimes you just can't reproduce them no matter how hard you try.
this is the most common car in my countries and this is also acommon fault in hyndai , when ckp is hot it is not working and if u let the car 10 minutes it runs good then stalling , i am happy that you are working in hyndai finally paul ❤ but i wish if i saw the shape of waves to know it ..
Tech Check where do you live buddy?
Jimmy Rey
Eastern side of the world bro
Yep weak point for hyndai
Marian Luc
yep
You fixed it by just touching the connector.......you have magic hands my friend! Lol
Same problem here with a 2012 Accent, stalls when I stop and sometimes running, code P0335, no check engine light at first, then i got it after 3 times failing, difficult to restart ignition and no tachometer reading, i have to wait a few seconds to restart the car properly and tachometer start reading about 20 seconds after that. Im buying the sensor replacement today. Thank you, I also tried throttle body cleaning first because of the symptoms and the absence of check engine light.
Thank you so much. I changed crankshaft sensor and problem solved. Elantra 2012 146k km
I just experienced this issue today on my 2013 Elantra. One addition was that when I did drive it while coded, it was also stuck in 5th gear. Also when I cleared the code, it ran normally again. Just wanted to also say this was a very informative video. Great work, gives me something else to watch out for. Thanks!
Thankyou.. thankx for the video.. im having exactly the same problem and i promise you. My vehicle its a 2016 hyundai accent. I just connected my scan tool and its the PO335. THANKX AGAIN AND GOD BLESS!!
Your videos are always very nice mr Paul Aka scannerdanner. I love them!
Fortunately I have an 2005 automatic transmission Hyundai Elantra GLS with an intermittent stalling problem issue that I'm trying to fix for a customer. The symptoms with the car is car is whenever the car is hot and is on motion
the car stalls on motion especially noticeable when the brake pedal is depressed and the car was in gear but when the car is on neutral and I depress the brake pedal it doesn't stall.
Clean the throttle body as a starting point
I found another reason to stall in idle ,. It was not a mechanical part, it was a failing alternator regulator, some times it fails to maintain 14v and the time it start to fail voltage goes 18v+.
ECU shut off the main relay and stop all electrical supplies to protect the car electrical system.
I use OBD tool to record voltage graph during 1-2 hour driving and when I got the stalling , i checked the voltage graph. Thats the way I found it.
I checked all connections , all fuses .. nothing was wrong . It was only a simple regulator built in behind alternator.
Hope this will also help to explorers .
Rare fault indeed. Thanks for sharing. May I ask what car and year model is this?
Great video (as usual), that one of my weakness is assuming a part is bad, (to Hasty to prove my assumption), thank you as usual for INSTILLING the importance of getting evidence to confirm a diagnosis ( most of the time), with that being said based on your vast experience what semi-pro (if there is such a thing) scanner would you recommend for ( a want to be 😁) mechanic that is bi-directional but not in the hi end, ( don't do enough jobs to warrant a high-end unit)
Autel MaxiSys Ultra (full kit).
I am having same issue with 2010 Accent. Very good info. After about 10 mins. of driving If i do not keep it rev'd when i slow down it will die. Typically it kind of hiccups and throw a check engine light, loss of tack/shift indicator. Restarts sometimes but not always. Wait 5-10 mins. it restarts. Shop said fuel pump,no load at idle. Additionally along with tach loss i have a manual trans, I lose shift notification.
"Of its not going to stall when I'm here; it knows I'm here 😂"
I had this problem on my 2014 Hyundai Accent Hatchback SE unfortunately the dealership couldn't find or reproduce the issue, but when I had the car in my possession I had the stalling issue. Instead of turning the car off I decided to drive the car to the dealership with the RPM needle on Zero they managed to find the error code of the Crankshaft position sensor malfunctioning, so I decided to get it replaced. So far my car is running fine after the replacement still awaiting futher testing for any new issues.
Update: After a whole week I haven't got any starting or stalling issues since the Crankshaft position sensor was replaced. This video did help me a lot of understanding what was wrong with my car and helped me avoid scams at the dealership.
Thanks for sharing. I think most dealership do not set out to scam, just that intermittent issues are hard to diagnose. They rather spend time on doing regular maintenances and surfaced problem (e.g. engine don't start at all). Just money and time.
The 2 wire pickup coils on motorcycles I've seen fail hot many times, but never during warm up. Just goes to show that anything is possible when it comes to electrical failures!
We used to test those with a multimeter on AC volts - would see a few tenths of a volt kicking it over - more if it was electric start. That usually meant it was good. 99% of the time they'd be completely dead when they failed, or you'd see the pinched wires someone caught in the side cover - made diags pretty easy. A scope sure makes this whole process 100x more accurate though! Would've sped the process up, for sure.
Pretty sad that this component didn't even reach 50k miles. Going to be ALOT of work in the future for techs, I predict! :)
I chuckled at the fast-forward drive there - sounded like a 2-stroke engine in that car revving to 12k RPM, hahaha! Wish we could drive around that fast on public roads. I'd get alot more done in a day! 😁
Great vid as always brother.👍
Had the exact same issue on my 2012 elantra today. Noticed if you run it driving or idling for 15 minutes, the tachometer stops working and it does not rev up and goes into limp mode when driving. Changed the crank position sensor and it rectified it.
Had similiar problems with a little Fiat called Seicento (sold only in Europe). It was stalling at idle and it was getting worse quickly, to the point I couldn't restart it before it had cooled down. Had to push it off the road several times. Also after you shut down the engine when it was hot, it was really tough to start again. When cold there was absolutely no problems, it was working like a charm. But the second it got hot it all started again. New crank sensor fixed it. But I had not check engine, and no DTCs in the computer, what mislead me a bit (this car didn't have a cam sensor, so maybe it coudn't get a reference to anything, thus it wasn't setting any codes)
I am new to this channel but this video is so good and I thank you very much😍
Thank you! And welcome!
Like your Style
Gonna subscribe because you speak simple Layman terms in Real time .
Did my TPS sensor backprobe today with a needle and ohm meter on my 2012 elantra Gls Touring 2.0
First time was a charm
Now my Car can race in videos too !🤣🤣🤣
Great video, informative. I have an Nissan Almera, 00, 1.5 L. Have the same issue P0335. Did change sensor and did erased code with code reader. But didnt work becourse the code came back. I ll hope this video will help me more.
Loved the test drive...funny...kool...great vidio
Another problem to look out for, on the Elantra, is that the car will turn off while being driven due to low oil . Meaning that there will be no indicator light coming on at the dash, yet the oil pressure sensor will have the computer turn off the engine to prevent damage.
Great video! You forgot one crucial clue that may have helped you duplicate the condition. Freeze Frame data. I've seen sensors not fail when cold or not fail when hot, but fail in between sometimes. I believe these intermittent problems are getting a lot worse on these newer cars. There's a lot of cars that I had to turn away because I could not get them to act up, and customers don't like hearing that, but what do you do?
Good Stuff Man! Thanks!
Would using a hair dryer to help heat up the sensor help on diagnosing it.
It would have helped, but I did close the hood and let it get hot which is usually enough
Greetings,My 2012 Hyundai Elantra is doing the same thing. My plan first cleaning the throttle body. But since I say your video,this will help me greatly. So When the car is idling putting on the AC the car while stall awhile afterwards. Then it will give me a long crank to start then the tachometer doesn't move giving me slow acceleration. The engine light will come on. So I have to turn the AC off and then back on. The car will drive but negative reading on the tachometer. I will change the crankshaft position sensor this weekend. It was a very informative video. Thank You
The crankshaft sensor was definitely the issue. Thanks Again 😀
great video SD
heatgun! one of my favorite sensor/ecm/electronic device cooker ;)
Yet another great video thanks man. I have a question about these vr sensors if you were to have a missing signal on 1 of the 2 crank sensor wires would it affect running at all. For instance a broken cable on one of the 2 ?
I wish he answer ur question, mine is missing ground signal
Great video! I just bought a 2016 Hyandai Elantra three weeks ago and the engine shakes when I idle at a stop light like it wants to stall. First start up every morning is rough. The engine will chug then stall. It takes three times starting it to get it running. I took it back to the dealership I have a 3 month power train warranty but if course they said they're not getting a code so they just recommended a fuel system cleaning 🙄.
What ended up happening after?
No matter the outcome of the video, you still relayed a great lesson. You were on the right track, the sensor just didn't want to act up badly when you were looking. Kind of like me when I was a kid. I never acted up with my dad watching. :)
Thanks Paul 😃
Very well done video of sir
Slow down Danner Andretti! :)Paul Would it be a good idea to look at Cam sensor too? I know a lot of other Makes set ckp codes when in fact its actually the cam sensor faulting(apparently not in this case)?
To recreate this dependably you need to simulate rush hour traffic in a city such as Wash DC. I have this problem or a similar one and my car stalls at least 10 times in a 45 minute commute to work (especially if there is a slight uphill grade). I also have it happen dependably when I enter my garage. I have a stop sign at the intersection near my home which I stop, make a right then a quick left (mine is the second house) then drive up the grade of my driveway it will die before it gets to the garage unless I gun it which dangerous.
I have a 2012 accent rb with the 1.4 gamma. It has recently do the exact same thing. Tacho sometimes not working, engine stalling when slowing down on red light. Sometimes the engine getting a very rough idle too.
Spray some contact cleaner to the battery ground and its all good.
The dealer is bafled by that. They check everything and nothing wrong. So they say its a broken pcm.
Maybe I will try adjusting the sensor cable first before buying a pcm. Thank you 😊
I also replaced the selanoid as well, for the transmission. Own a 2018 Hyundai Elantra SEL
This is the fastest Hyundai i ever seen
Your a pretty fast driver! Haha 💨
I found an Instructables on how to make one of these sensors using a coil from a relay and a magnet.(MAGNETIC SPEED SENSOR) I didn't have a reluctor ring or gear to create a regular signal but waving lineman's pliers in front worked. It was instructive to see how the signal changed by waving the pliers faster or slower, further or closer and with different strength magnets. I even tried a resistor in series with the coil to simulate a voltage drop but that didn't have much effect at all.
Maybe on this one, the magnet was impacted by warm up or could shift?
Great video
Great video my friend my daughter car have that problem
2014 accent same code but delayed crank after hot soak. Very intermittent.
No TSBs.
FF data shows no rpm and 204 deg. F. Scope pattern was pretty.
Was able to dup. concern w/ extended idle and (most important) having hood shut, then wait 5 minutes. Trick was hood shut capturing heat.
Screen capture shows flat line at approx 2V then signal comes back.
Was about to throw a sensor at it. Sometimes you have no other option.
thanks bro im going through this with my 2015 hyndai elantra
If I replace the crankshaft sensor myself, where should I buy one from? My 2012 with 156xxx miles is doing exact same thing.
intermittents suck indeed, cant stress that enough, good lesson on backprobing. good video overall.
Dan.. YOU THE MAN!! Thank you for this video
Thanks! My name is Paul Danner btw 😉
Awesome information for the do it yourself
I have a 2012 GLS. It has always started hard. With that said, it will seize on hot days. Having to put it in park to restart, always at a stop where it can't idle past 1k RPM. Now the tach doesn't read and is running from the cam. So, yes, holy shit was this informative. If I plan the start just right, I do have a tach. From turning the key to the engine turning over...there is generally a delay.
gotta love intermittants ! just a thought was it damp wet or raining when the fault occurred. a water bottle sometimes helps. seen cracked plastic and damp conditions cause problems
weather conditions were not a factor in this case but thanks for the reminder!
My car has been doing this. Starts and stalls sitting in the driveway. Then just cranks and won’t start again. I’ve had it towed twice. Gets to the shop and they say it’s fine. Today for the first time it actually started again with No RPM got it home, Restarted it and it’s running fine. Thanks for your video. It’s happened 3 times on a year and seems to resolve itself somehow eventually. Now I can clean that connector up and if it happens again tell them to check it.
A new sensor was the final fix for us.
Wondering if this is the same freaking thing in my 2013 elantra. Brought mine into two shops after twice having it randomly not start and neither shop could replicate it. I guess for good reason they can't since it seems to do it weeks in between.
It cranks but starts up incredibly weak when it finally gets going, tach would still work although granted eradically, and the engine again sounded very very quiet but stumbling almost like a misfire. After doing a restart of the car, all is fine like nothing happened. I wonder if Im just seeing the beginning of the rabbit hole, I already dropped money on a battery sadly after a shop told me it was bad because of the CCA.
One day I got in my car thinking doo doo doo brand new battery I'm good. I turned the key, crank crank crank for what seemed to be way too long, before it finally started but again unnaturally quiet and stumbling almost dying. I may just try this man, I've already flushed money down on the battery, and this seems to be all over the net aside from the shifter problems which only seems to be the issue when there is a no crank, and no click.
Regardless awesome video, I was thinking it was a different issue entirely, like bad spark plugs, bad fuel pump, you know the stuff that usually breaks on cars lol :P
This always happens to me when someone brings me a vehicle for repair. All the sudden the mechanic is here better be on our best behavior!!! Haha!!!
Thanks, as always Paul!
Thank you Mike!
Cool drivin' Mr. Paul! 😎
It was like Grand Turismo :-)
Yeah as you said those freaking intermittent stalling and various problems can be awful frustrating as heck sometimes most of the time mr. D! Actually I'm just starting my diagnostician career hear this last year with a decent scanner and just purchased a Pico scope so I am fairly inexperienced as yet but have had a couple. One very similar to the one you're working on right now. For sure those intermittent problems aren't the funnest, specially when you expect them to be duplicated when you touch and move something and they don't! Had a very similar problem with a 2000 Grand Prix lately, actually it was my first opportunity that I've had to take over from another's parts changer diagnostic attempts to solve this stubborn stalling problem . I was brought in to see if I could help resolve the issue, and I was excited to prove my diagnostician abilities SOL (Smilin Out Loud) but wasn't to be on this one. The previous mechanic had replaced a few items as usual to no avail so I started testing the powers, grounds, input and output signals to the ICM and computer. So after it stalled sometimes I found that I could move the harness wires to the ICM and hear the solenoids and power click on and off of which wouldn't happen every time! In the end he finally replaced the harness to the ICM which was the problem and when I first thought that I disconnected the harness and checked continuity and pin resistance problems ( manual not electrical ) and found no discrepancies, but that solved the problem in the end... replacing the harness. Sometimes it would take a few minutes to 15 to 30 minutes to stall and other times it would stall and start right up or have no spark and no cam signal to the ICM. And of course he wanted to just change the ICM or put another crank signal in, but I insisted
that "no don't do anything yet,5 I'm not finished and I will let you know when I find the real problem. I learned that from you mr. Scanman! You and a couple of other Excellent diagnosticians out there in UA-cam educational land :-)
Good movie but I didn't think you could carry in PA there Professor.
Hi Paul, Could you please do a follow up on this? Did the car Come back or touching it fixed it?
thank you so much for all the details and explanations!
It needed a new crank sensor
I had a some problem on the chevo Cruze crankshaft position sensor and the car has a hard crank sometimes it's stalling , I thought of changing the crankshaft sensor but my tools doesn't learn the crankshaft sensor , any idea how I can learn it after I changed the crankshaft sensor 🤗🤗🤗 thanks for the video
sometimes just closing the hood helps to create more heat and generate the fault. Happened to me few times not able to recreate the problem. Cold outside, hood opened, not enough heat to be able to recreate the issue.
Use De-Oxit to clean the connector contacts, tighten the pins and put dielectric grease on the contact areas. Test the crankshaft sensor itself if you find it.
Did this resolve the problem?
I have a 2018 Elantra that just died when I stopped. I cranked it back up and it died again after I drove it a few feet. I changed the oil and put some gas treatment in it hasn't done it again but, tomorrow I will be driving it for 4hrs like the day it stopped. Any ideas?
Hi Paul
Makes sense with pin fitment
Awesome thanks