The original videos from this one were from 2011. I am teaching to a class of 20 students and I was still a rookie with the camera, so sorry for shouting at times in the video. I am projecting my voice to the class and not realizing how loud I am to the camera. This is still a great video for those who want to know how to test a hall effect type cam or crank sensor and they do not have a scope.
Thanks. For bringing this knowledge and educational videos. Sr im pretty sure a lot off us appreciate it. Not all of us have access to a DSO. Thanks. Again
Great video. It would have been pretty funny if you said, "I was a camera rookie and wanted to make sure the guy standing next to me could hear me clearly."
yes i get it! Thanks again Paul! you can see a lower frequency signal on a voltmeter but not a high frequency signal, this is why the scope is better for diagnostics because the voltmeter is averaging readings..
Great vid. Nice way to remember. Had a 98 ranger today with a new pcm lol. Bad crank sensor. 2 wire but the guided component test in my triton d8 helps a lot. Learned a lot watching you. Thats why i got the d8. The scope removes the guessing. Now i know when im right. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. 👍
Great video! The premium channel has been awesome! I am 50 years old and have worked on cars all my life and learning new things everyday on the premium channel! I feel like I'm getting the better end of the deal since the price is so reasonable! Thanks again!
Thanks Paul - Great reminder, DMM at times will read 2.5 Vic on a signal who's frequency is below a certain sample limit. For instance on a Wheel Speed Sensor you may be able to Spin the wheel by hand at a low enough speed and the VMM will read 0.5 Vdc on a 5 V pull down Hall Effect sensor. As always thanks for your great teaching methods on your videos, "Scannerdanner There is NO Substitute !!"
Very nice video Danner. I liked how you are breaking videos down to segments for us to learn. I really liked how it's was straight and to the point on how to test hall effect sensors. In addition, I liked how you showed us with a volt meter and compared it to a lab scope. Not all of us diy guys have snap on graphing. I always like it when it is explained on which meter leads are connected to which terminal on the battery and what the dvom is set at when doing electrical testing in video during testing of each wire. Because if it's not explained, I can watch a video and not understand exactly how it was done if there person explaining doesn't explain which terminal on battery he connected to and what his dvom was set at while testing the electrical component. Might I say though, I love all of your videos. Thank you.
This is great I just got done checking out my crank sensor and the communication like you done at your brothers shop on the white grand Cherokee now I'm fixing to go through these protocols and I'm telling you buddy without this wealth of information I would have been lost! You are an amazing person to put this out there and I am intrigued I've always worked on older vehicles but this is Cool
You couldn't have uploaded this at a better time! i was trying to explain how to test a hall effect sensor over text and I was able to send this instead! thanks for your great videos!
I have a more in depth lecture on this too, right here on UA-cam. Share these with him. Thank you! Hall effect cam/crank sensor operation and testing Part 1 (an SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/fPkZCJgtUko/v-deo.html Hall effect cam/crank sensor operation and testing Part 2 (an SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/BJp2uVXzUqs/v-deo.html
Good stuff Professor. Good diagnostic to use on any car with sensors. Good bump info. I'll remember that next time I bump into ya. Have a great one and Happy Motoring. Another excellent snippet.
Sir thank you for making these videos for everyone out there and keep doing what you’re doing. Do you have a video on how to determine if the sensor is a hall effect sensor or not?
Good stuff, great well said reference material for any budding guys wanting to check things out, got to isolate a no start on a 1992 Volvo with a 2.3 4cyl pretty positive its not getting a crankshaft reference, will find out! Thanks
Thank you so much for all these wonderful videos, i normally speed up the video to x 1.75 above the normal, and i can get all the content with limited free time, and no your voice doesn't sound like the 'Chipmunks' 🙂👍
@@ScannerDanner Soz,,Paul,,, a Grandfather,,WOT,,your Kidding,,right???,,OMG what age did you settle down with a family,,a 6 year old,,HEHE,,,🙂,,just joking man,, your looking good for an old/young Dinosaur ,,,whatever your doing,,keep going,,we wana see more video's into the next Millenium and beyond,,like Buz light year,,into infinity and beyond, take care my friend, highest respects, and warmest regards 🙂😇
Nice way to refresh. I have used a test light to see if I am getting a signal from a hall sensor if I didn't have my scope with me but the meter and slow rotation is the way to go. Thank YOU.PS I ears still hurt 😜
I put a note in the video. The reason is wasn't was because I was connected to battery ground with my dvom. If I was connected to the engine block or sensor ground, it would have been steady.
Thanks for sharing SD👍 Looking forward to some more lectures on programming, I really enjoyed & learned a lot from the MKZ series😉 Stay safe & Blessed Bro❤
Exactly what school taught me. But got a question. Let's say you remove power to the hall sensor. Would the scope show constant 5v or 0v from the signal wire?
Very good explained, i have an extra question, i removed the sensor, the resistance was ok, when i simulated heat with a hairdryer and the resistance rises to thousands & hundreds of kOhm, is it ok, or that mean it's not working?
hi and thank you for your excellent work i have a 2016 Mercedes Benz metris having a problem with the camshaft sensor how do you tell which one is camshaft sensor on bank one a because i have on my car thank you
Shout away, brother! Maybe it will all sink in for me faster if I turn my volume up higher. 😁 Then to make sure everyone watches, you could say at the end of your intro, "Enjoy this video ... OR I'LL KICK YOUR ASS!" No need to thank me for the video tips - it's the least I can do. 😂🤣😂 Just playin' man! GREAT "Quick Tips" series you've been doing. I think these are going to do extremely well for you. Great thinking as usual, brother! 👍🍻 Glad you guys are doing well through all this insanity in the world lately.
Very nice video. My 2006 mini cooper s don’t keep the 5 volts when I crank. What does it mean? What could be the next test or what do I need to replace? Thanks, Tom
I never actually understood why my meter wasn't "fast enough" to measure a crank sensor, I just know it isn't. Funny thing is, I've scoped them, but never put 2 & 2 together for the time window of high point voltage verse low point voltage as to why my meter isn't fast enough. But when you explain it, it makes perfect sense. Also, in theory with a meter, you should be able to do KOEO and bar the engine over and be able to observe the high and low points no? (As opposed to the bumping demonstration you did with the key)
That is correct, only reason I do not suggest that is with the key on, you may get a kick from the engine while rotating it by hand, leading to injury. Unlikely, but that is why I do not suggest it.
@@ScannerDannerbest to find a fuse for a fuel pump or disabling spark so you don't get the jump you're talking about. If it's a diesel then disconnecting fuel pump fuse is all it takes
Pretty cool doing this stuff in the field and then sitting here after dinner I get a video on it haha. Had a Dodge 5.9 with a no start. For whatever reason my dmm showed both sensor powers and grounds good and then my scanner was showing a good ckp signal and a bad cmp signal. The funny thing is, upon removing the ckp sensor, it was swollen and cracked from oil intrusion from the vc gasket. Installed a new one and it fired right up, yet still shows a bad ckp signal and says out of sync. Silly mopars.
for sure and a great lesson to learn! A faulty cam sensor can set a false crank sensor code and vice versa. And yes, I haven't seen it on any other models but Chrysler :-)
At 4:35 the multimeter must read the same voltage at all speed , because the wide and the amplitude of the signal will never change, only frequency change
Hey scannerdanner! Thanks again for all your videos, it’s a ocean full of knowledge! I think I’m ready to buy my scope, i need one to further my diagnosis skills. I registered for my advanced diagnosis class hopefully in the fall, I know you’ve talked about the uscope, I’m on a budget being 20 and paying for college but I received my tax return, I’m stuck between a uscope or a two channel pico. The u scope master kit comes with double the tools for half the price of the two channel pico but having the ability to set markers and zoom in, have a bigger screen, being able to save to my computer I like the pico a lot but I’m getting almost no accessories with the beginner kit. I am a beginner to scopes besides using a verus for fuel pumps and abs sensors. You think spending the extra money on the pico will be better for me in the long run or should I start of smaller with something more user friendly like the UScope?
Please help! Firstly, your videos and knowledge are great! I have a problem with my wife's 04 Buick Lesabre. 3800 series II engine. When I read the voltage in the two signal wires of the CKP sensor it shows wierd stuff.. Unplugged its 6.2V each. With a new ICM its 4.95V each. Problem is when plugged in to ANY ICM: drops to 1.77V and 0.77V and STAYS there no matter what. I tried 4 different sensors. Acdelco, gm geniuine. One of them would drop to 5.5V and 4.5V. But none will recognize the metal teeth of the harmonic balancer. When tested outside, but plugged in its still the same. Its getting power, i checked every wire for damage, but im not sure about grounding because i checked that with key off for resistance. Between sensor ground to ICM ground (g112) there was 1.5- 3 ohms resistance. Is that too much? Whats going on? Car ran the last time when i changed the CKP sensor. It ran for 2 mins then died and never started. Please help
I have a question regarding 5v ref on hall effect sensors.u said that it should be steady 5v all the time. what if it is not steady?what would be the problem??
Thanks Paul, as always - well done. Kind of odd, the Cam sensor looked like a 5 volt peak square wave form at about 50 % duty cycle, should have read ~ 2.5V dc on the voltmeter ? Once again thanks.
frequency is what you are not considering. That DMM will sample about 4 times per second, maybe less. If the frequency is real slow, the meter will start to show the highs and lows
can you also remove plugs and slowly rotate crank with ratchet on crank nut to enable the multimeter to catch the signal? these videos are great, they are the only videos that teach one how to diagnose things like this.
You can do that as well, BUT there are some safety concerns with that. One, the key will be on and the crankshaft can kick on you on a compression stroke with an ignition event. Two, there is no need to go through all that work when you can just simply bump the key.
For a hall effect? There is a transistor that will switch on and off to either ground, or positive (5-12v range) depending on the circuit design (pull-up or pull-down)
Hello dan i am doing some testing and just need a area where i should i go first vehicle has misfire what do you think what i should check first 1 knock sensor 2 cam sensor 3 crank senskr 4 ect sensor? Hopefully i get a reply
My name is Paul Danner 🙂 and none of the above for a misfire. You've given me nothing to work with here either btw. Year, make, model, engine, codes, symptoms, history etc
you can, but there is a slight chance of the engine kicking on you with the key on and that may break a hand or arm if it does. I don't recommend that. Bump the starter instead
Depends on the car. And the year and engine. It can be that specific where other models are fine with aftermarket. So when in doubt since I don't know what you're working on, then I say definitely go factory if you can
The power prob hook is a really good tool check it out. I use my hook on a daily basis. You can see source voltage,amps,and resistance all at the same time. There is a pulse width mood and bias volt from .5v to10v, and much more.
So when doing a ground to ground voltage drop test one lead of the voltmeter goes on the sensor ground and the other meter lead to BATTERY ground? Or any gorund?
Great info. I’m trying to figure out a 2014 equinox no start issue. I understand that using an oscilloscope would be ideal. My computer is giving me p0017. I have replaced all sensors, timing chain and cam phasers. Double checked the timing chain it’s correct. Sometimes the 2.4 ecotec will start and it runs great. When I turn it off it won’t start. I’m thinking if the reluctor ring has moved on the crankshaft I would get a p0016 and p0117. Any thought and how much is a house
Are all hall effect sensors outputting 0-5 digital sq. wave or are some putting out 0-12 sq. wave? Does that depend on the amplifier or the Schmitt trigger?
@@ScannerDanner interesting. I had a case of a bad cam sensor. Code was cam pos sensor open circuit or short to B+. This was in an 05 vw passat 2.8. I checked power and grounds to the sensor. Both present. 5v reference as a power and computer provided ground. However, the signal wire was constantly pegged at 11V. I measured with a fluke dvm. With or without the sensor plugged. The computer was putting out 11V on the signal line, which was ONLY detectable with a dvm. I measured at the sensor side. I measured at the computer. Every time - 11V. I thought the computer was shorted internally. Til I took my led light with integrated volt meter. And it wouldn't measure any voltage. I took a regular old incandesent light and it wouldn't light up at all. But my fluke measured 11V every time. That completely threw me off. So I decided to put a new sensor at that point and the code went away. I don't understand what kind of design this was... could you enlighten me please? Thanks Danner.
@@HristovRumen If you still need help, I've created a free forum you can join on my website at www.scannerdanner.com I have over 28k global members and hand picked moderators who are there to help me help you guys. Hope to see you there! I try to do my best at helping people here but I just can't keep up, I am sorry. But we can definitely help you on my forum!
Awesome video! Also everytime I see you I couldnt quite remember who you reminded me of. The other day it struck me. You could be HHHs twin from wrestling
Mr. @ScannerDanner, you mentioned slowing the crank down to test for signal but did not mention one can manually turn the crank while checking the signal. I found in my Acadia (pull-down system) with P0335, I only saw 0V at signal while manually turning the crank. I then found the connector had signal and ground wires exposed and shorted to each other. I trust the ECU and sensor are still intact. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ "KEEP CRANKING KEEP CRANKING" 🙂
I bought a Verus. Tried to read a crank signal on a Mitsubishi Endeavor V6 the other day by connecting it to signal and ground on the sensor. It read a solid 12v during cranking. The car WILL start intermittently and run. I was using the information provided by Mitchell on the Guided Component Test settings with the scope. So confused.
So do you always get a 5-12v feed/signal voltage? Because on my A6 1.8T I get 2.59 on both. There's nothing wrong with the car so I'm wondering if this isn't just a design issue?
@@ScannerDanner ah, there you go, then. Gotta love German engineering! I saw the video on which you were complaining about that Jetta with the Evap valve and the poor design of the sequential testing. You should see how VCDS works one day (unless you already have) that's about the worst interface design ever.
The original videos from this one were from 2011. I am teaching to a class of 20 students and I was still a rookie with the camera, so sorry for shouting at times in the video. I am projecting my voice to the class and not realizing how loud I am to the camera.
This is still a great video for those who want to know how to test a hall effect type cam or crank sensor and they do not have a scope.
Thanks. For bringing this knowledge and educational videos. Sr im pretty sure a lot off us appreciate it. Not all of us have access to a DSO. Thanks. Again
Great video. It would have been pretty funny if you said, "I was a camera rookie and wanted to make sure the guy standing next to me could hear me clearly."
never mind , your shouting is accepted
Your videos are truly excellent. If only I could afford the scanning equipment --at 65 years old, it's doubtful as no rich relatives left either LOL
@@abdullbasitosman5070 😂😁
You’re an excellent teacher. Those students are so lucky
Thank you so much!
yes i get it! Thanks again Paul! you can see a lower frequency signal on a voltmeter but not a high frequency signal, this is why the scope is better for diagnostics because the voltmeter is averaging readings..
Exactly! Thank you
Great vid. Nice way to remember. Had a 98 ranger today with a new pcm lol. Bad crank sensor. 2 wire but the guided component test in my triton d8 helps a lot. Learned a lot watching you. Thats why i got the d8. The scope removes the guessing. Now i know when im right. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. 👍
Great video! The premium channel has been awesome! I am 50 years old and have worked on cars all my life and learning new things everyday on the premium channel! I feel like I'm getting the better end of the deal since the price is so reasonable! Thanks again!
Thank you Robert!
@@ScannerDanner which premium channnel he is talking about.?plz let me know
@@mehfoozali9718 www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Thanks Paul - Great reminder, DMM at times will read 2.5 Vic on a signal who's frequency is below a certain sample limit. For instance on a Wheel Speed Sensor you may be able to Spin the wheel by hand at a low enough speed and the VMM will read 0.5 Vdc on a 5 V pull down Hall Effect sensor. As always thanks for your great teaching methods on your videos, "Scannerdanner There is NO Substitute !!"
I meant VMM will read 2.5 Vdc , 5 V , 50% duty cycle wave form, if the frequency is below the Sample limit, thanks.
Yes sir and thank you!
Very nice video Danner. I liked how you are breaking videos down to segments for us to learn. I really liked how it's was straight and to the point on how to test hall effect sensors. In addition, I liked how you showed us with a volt meter and compared it to a lab scope. Not all of us diy guys have snap on graphing. I always like it when it is explained on which meter leads are connected to which terminal on the battery and what the dvom is set at when doing electrical testing in video during testing of each wire. Because if it's not explained, I can watch a video and not understand exactly how it was done if there person explaining doesn't explain which terminal on battery he connected to and what his dvom was set at while testing the electrical component. Might I say though, I love all of your videos. Thank you.
Short and to the point! These educational snippets are great for people with ADD - keep them coming :)
Glad you like them!
Dear ScannerDanner thank you for the best basic knowlage.You are the best teacher.
Best channel in the existence with the best dude and family ever
Thank you!
@ScannerDanner thanks for replying man i hope you become a Muslim or at least search about it
This is great I just got done checking out my crank sensor and the communication like you done at your brothers shop on the white grand Cherokee now I'm fixing to go through these protocols and I'm telling you buddy without this wealth of information I would have been lost! You are an amazing person to put this out there and I am intrigued I've always worked on older vehicles but this is Cool
You couldn't have uploaded this at a better time! i was trying to explain how to test a hall effect sensor over text and I was able to send this instead! thanks for your great videos!
I have a more in depth lecture on this too, right here on UA-cam. Share these with him. Thank you!
Hall effect cam/crank sensor operation and testing Part 1 (an SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/fPkZCJgtUko/v-deo.html
Hall effect cam/crank sensor operation and testing Part 2 (an SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/BJp2uVXzUqs/v-deo.html
ScannerDanner perfect! Will do!
Good stuff Professor. Good diagnostic to use on any car with sensors.
Good bump info. I'll remember that next time I bump into ya.
Have a great one and Happy Motoring. Another excellent snippet.
Definitely my favorite master technician! Thanks for everything you do to teach us
Man I was just thinking today after seeing your book in my work bag what you’ve been up to. Really glad to see more videos from you.
Sir thank you for making these videos for everyone out there and keep doing what you’re doing. Do you have a video on how to determine if the sensor is a hall effect sensor or not?
If it's a 3-wire it is most likely a hall effect. Thank you!
The 2-wire crank and cam sensor designs produce and AC sign wave
Thank you for sharing this great content! I wish you shop was here! I really appreciate you!
Thanks!
This quick hit format is fantastic. Thank you!
Great to hear!
Thanks again for your educational videos. It's always great to have a refresher on scopes.
Excellent.
Check for air gap between inductor wheel and metal chips on magnet or sensor also. Found no start from this also.
Good show.
something you would never catch on a voltmeter, but the scope would reign supreme :-)
You are great i watch all your videos i have a lot to learn from your videos
Thank you scannerdanner for sharing your videos
KNOWLEDGEABLE
Sir ScannerDanner good morning 🙏 🌄 Take care and have a great day Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Good stuff, great well said reference material for any budding guys wanting to check things out, got to isolate a no start on a 1992 Volvo with a 2.3 4cyl pretty positive its not getting a crankshaft reference, will find out! Thanks
Nice! I can help further after you get some measurements for me
Thank you so much for all these wonderful videos, i normally speed up the video to x 1.75 above the normal, and i can get all the content with limited free time, and no your voice doesn't sound like the 'Chipmunks' 🙂👍
I do the same when reviewing my sons edits. I watch at 1.5 mostly 😃
Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner c'mon Dan, you don't look old enough to have a son that is in videoing and editing, you're a spring chicken man ,,,, Lol 🙂👍
@@sollykhan2385 my names Paul Danner (I get Dan a lot lol)
And yeah, I'm actually a grandfather 🙂
@@ScannerDanner Soz,,Paul,,, a Grandfather,,WOT,,your Kidding,,right???,,OMG what age did you settle down with a family,,a 6 year old,,HEHE,,,🙂,,just joking man,, your looking good for an old/young Dinosaur ,,,whatever your doing,,keep going,,we wana see more video's into the next Millenium and beyond,,like Buz light year,,into infinity and beyond, take care my friend, highest respects, and warmest regards 🙂😇
@@sollykhan2385 I'll be fifty in May. I have 4 kids and 1 grandkid and yes I started young. Married my wife at 24. I'm truly blessed man, thank you!
Bumping the key is a great tip!
This was a great video Paul thanks for sharing this.
Great video Scanner Danner and thank you for teaching👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
how i wished you were my teacher 🙄
thanks for sharing SC,
it helps a lot even tho it spinned my brain for a second 😅
Great explanation is always on a difficult subject electronics
Thanks I learned something today! You are the best!
What I wouldn't give to have half this guy's knowledge.
I like these quick lesson videos
Thanks for the video , it makes so much sense to just bump test that Hall effect with a general meter
Nice way to refresh. I have used a test light to see if I am getting a signal from a hall sensor if I didn't have my scope with me but the meter and slow rotation is the way to go. Thank YOU.PS I ears still hurt 😜
you can also use the ac voltage setting, hz setting and duty cycle setting on the voltmeter.
Thanks for your wonderful channel. You are awesome.
Great from Nicaragua scanner danner..thanks
Hello sir it was awesome video and I have question .why signal was not 5 volt constant or I am mistaken
5volt to ECU/PCM
I put a note in the video. The reason is wasn't was because I was connected to battery ground with my dvom. If I was connected to the engine block or sensor ground, it would have been steady.
Great question!
@@ScannerDanner I got that sir thank you from your great information it is awesome man thanks
Thanks for sharing SD👍
Looking forward to some more lectures on programming, I really enjoyed & learned a lot from the MKZ series😉
Stay safe & Blessed Bro❤
Wow this was so helpful and understandable.
Glad it was helpful!
Exactly what school taught me. But got a question. Let's say you remove power to the hall sensor. Would the scope show constant 5v or 0v from the signal wire?
With the sensor unplugged, some will read 5v while others will read 0v. There are two different design signal circuits (pull-up and pull-down)
@@ScannerDanner thanks for the reply!
Very good explained, i have an extra question, i removed the sensor, the resistance was ok, when i simulated heat with a hairdryer and the resistance rises to thousands & hundreds of kOhm, is it ok, or that mean it's not working?
The scope's the way to go, but sometimes all you have is a DMM, like when doing a (on the the road) service call.
Good presentation and video. Thx
I love these videos!!!
These videos are awesome!
hi and thank you for your excellent work i have a 2016 Mercedes Benz metris having a problem with the camshaft sensor how do you tell which one is camshaft sensor on bank one a because i have on my car
thank you
Shout away, brother! Maybe it will all sink in for me faster if I turn my volume up higher. 😁 Then to make sure everyone watches, you could say at the end of your intro, "Enjoy this video ... OR I'LL KICK YOUR ASS!" No need to thank me for the video tips - it's the least I can do. 😂🤣😂
Just playin' man! GREAT "Quick Tips" series you've been doing. I think these are going to do extremely well for you. Great thinking as usual, brother! 👍🍻 Glad you guys are doing well through all this insanity in the world lately.
With the scope you can measure also the rev number while cranking measuring time interval between High signal ( period time) .
Very nice video. My 2006 mini cooper s don’t keep the 5 volts when I crank. What does it mean? What could be the next test or what do I need to replace? Thanks, Tom
You need to verify the ECM is maintaining its ignition and battery feeds during cranking
Excellent SD.
Best video explaining, Thanks
Once again, on the other side of the world, you are saving my cars from going straight into the scrap yard. Thanks
Great info and teaching method
I never actually understood why my meter wasn't "fast enough" to measure a crank sensor, I just know it isn't. Funny thing is, I've scoped them, but never put 2 & 2 together for the time window of high point voltage verse low point voltage as to why my meter isn't fast enough. But when you explain it, it makes perfect sense. Also, in theory with a meter, you should be able to do KOEO and bar the engine over and be able to observe the high and low points no? (As opposed to the bumping demonstration you did with the key)
That is correct, only reason I do not suggest that is with the key on, you may get a kick from the engine while rotating it by hand, leading to injury. Unlikely, but that is why I do not suggest it.
@@ScannerDannerbest to find a fuse for a fuel pump or disabling spark so you don't get the jump you're talking about. If it's a diesel then disconnecting fuel pump fuse is all it takes
Pretty cool doing this stuff in the field and then sitting here after dinner I get a video on it haha. Had a Dodge 5.9 with a no start. For whatever reason my dmm showed both sensor powers and grounds good and then my scanner was showing a good ckp signal and a bad cmp signal. The funny thing is, upon removing the ckp sensor, it was swollen and cracked from oil intrusion from the vc gasket. Installed a new one and it fired right up, yet still shows a bad ckp signal and says out of sync. Silly mopars.
for sure and a great lesson to learn! A faulty cam sensor can set a false crank sensor code and vice versa. And yes, I haven't seen it on any other models but Chrysler :-)
@@ScannerDanner thanks for taking the time to reply dude. Love watching when I have time!!!
Thanks for the Video SD 🙋♂️👨🔧
Good info in this video
At 4:35 the multimeter must read the same voltage at all speed , because the wide and the amplitude of the signal will never change, only frequency change
Hey scannerdanner! Thanks again for all your videos, it’s a ocean full of knowledge! I think I’m ready to buy my scope, i need one to further my diagnosis skills. I registered for my advanced diagnosis class hopefully in the fall, I know you’ve talked about the uscope, I’m on a budget being 20 and paying for college but I received my tax return, I’m stuck between a uscope or a two channel pico. The u scope master kit comes with double the tools for half the price of the two channel pico but having the ability to set markers and zoom in, have a bigger screen, being able to save to my computer I like the pico a lot but I’m getting almost no accessories with the beginner kit. I am a beginner to scopes besides using a verus for fuel pumps and abs sensors. You think spending the extra money on the pico will be better for me in the long run or should I start of smaller with something more user friendly like the UScope?
I watch your vdos with thumb up
Wow. Very well done.
Please help! Firstly, your videos and knowledge are great! I have a problem with my wife's 04 Buick Lesabre. 3800 series II engine. When I read the voltage in the two signal wires of the CKP sensor it shows wierd stuff.. Unplugged its 6.2V each. With a new ICM its 4.95V each. Problem is when plugged in to ANY ICM: drops to 1.77V and 0.77V and STAYS there no matter what. I tried 4 different sensors. Acdelco, gm geniuine. One of them would drop to 5.5V and 4.5V. But none will recognize the metal teeth of the harmonic balancer. When tested outside, but plugged in its still the same. Its getting power, i checked every wire for damage, but im not sure about grounding because i checked that with key off for resistance. Between sensor ground to ICM ground (g112) there was 1.5- 3 ohms resistance. Is that too much? Whats going on? Car ran the last time when i changed the CKP sensor. It ran for 2 mins then died and never started. Please help
I have a question regarding 5v ref on hall effect sensors.u said that it should be steady 5v all the time. what if it is not steady?what would be the problem??
My pickup coil has negative voltage that is double of positive, can you explain this Paul?
Great video!
You doing good job and I am very Mach happy for you but why can you show as where is your tester led even when you scoop
Any way your choice!!??!
Thanks Paul, as always - well done. Kind of odd, the Cam sensor looked like a 5 volt peak square wave form at about 50 % duty cycle, should have read ~ 2.5V dc on the voltmeter ? Once again thanks.
frequency is what you are not considering. That DMM will sample about 4 times per second, maybe less. If the frequency is real slow, the meter will start to show the highs and lows
What a shout that is...👍👍
Thanks scanner danner great from Nicaragua..i would want studys with you here not there is school for leaners..excellent
can you also remove plugs and slowly rotate crank with ratchet on crank nut to enable the multimeter to catch the signal? these videos are great, they are the only videos that teach one how to diagnose things like this.
You can do that as well, BUT there are some safety concerns with that. One, the key will be on and the crankshaft can kick on you on a compression stroke with an ignition event. Two, there is no need to go through all that work when you can just simply bump the key.
Useful info thanks
Do you have any scope recommendations for a diyer?
I have a question , what causes the voltage drop at sensor? Does pcm drop the volts?
For a hall effect? There is a transistor that will switch on and off to either ground, or positive (5-12v range) depending on the circuit design (pull-up or pull-down)
Thank you so much 👍 very helpful videos
Hello dan i am doing some testing and just need a area where i should i go first vehicle has misfire what do you think what i should check first 1 knock sensor 2 cam sensor 3 crank senskr 4 ect sensor? Hopefully i get a reply
My name is Paul Danner 🙂 and none of the above for a misfire.
You've given me nothing to work with here either btw. Year, make, model, engine, codes, symptoms, history etc
Excelente show maestro!!
Could you turn the engine over by hand and check the signals with a Voltmeter?
you can, but there is a slight chance of the engine kicking on you with the key on and that may break a hand or arm if it does. I don't recommend that. Bump the starter instead
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for the Replay ! Great Video's ! Keep them coming !
Do you have to replace this sensor with oem part or aftermarket ?
Depends on the car. And the year and engine. It can be that specific where other models are fine with aftermarket. So when in doubt since I don't know what you're working on, then I say definitely go factory if you can
Great vid, thank u for that bro. Can we make this test with prow power prob IV
Yes, of course. It does content a voltmeter
@@ScannerDanner do you have anything belongs power prob iv tester that can help me to use
@@ScannerDanner do you have anything belongs power prob iv tester in your channel that can help me to use
Type in "power probe" in the video search box on my channel page. I have a few
The power prob hook is a really good tool check it out. I use my hook on a daily basis. You can see source voltage,amps,and resistance all at the same time. There is a pulse width mood and bias volt from .5v to10v, and much more.
So when doing a ground to ground voltage drop test one lead of the voltmeter goes on the sensor ground and the other meter lead to BATTERY ground? Or any gorund?
Ideally battery ground, but a known good block or frame ground is sufficient.
Great info. I’m trying to figure out a 2014 equinox no start issue. I understand that using an oscilloscope would be ideal. My computer is giving me p0017. I have replaced all sensors, timing chain and cam phasers. Double checked the timing chain it’s correct. Sometimes the 2.4 ecotec will start and it runs great. When I turn it off it won’t start. I’m thinking if the reluctor ring has moved on the crankshaft I would get a p0016 and p0117. Any thought and how much is a house
Are all hall effect sensors outputting 0-5 digital sq. wave or are some putting out 0-12 sq. wave? Does that depend on the amplifier or the Schmitt trigger?
Some are 5, some are 12 and it depends on the signal circuit design in the computer as well. Some are a pull-up design and some are pull-down
@@ScannerDanner interesting. I had a case of a bad cam sensor. Code was cam pos sensor open circuit or short to B+. This was in an 05 vw passat 2.8. I checked power and grounds to the sensor. Both present. 5v reference as a power and computer provided ground. However, the signal wire was constantly pegged at 11V. I measured with a fluke dvm. With or without the sensor plugged. The computer was putting out 11V on the signal line, which was ONLY detectable with a dvm. I measured at the sensor side. I measured at the computer. Every time - 11V. I thought the computer was shorted internally. Til I took my led light with integrated volt meter. And it wouldn't measure any voltage. I took a regular old incandesent light and it wouldn't light up at all. But my fluke measured 11V every time. That completely threw me off. So I decided to put a new sensor at that point and the code went away. I don't understand what kind of design this was... could you enlighten me please? Thanks Danner.
@@HristovRumen If you still need help, I've created a free forum you can join on my website at www.scannerdanner.com I have over 28k global members and hand picked moderators who are there to help me help you guys. Hope to see you there! I try to do my best at helping people here but I just can't keep up, I am sorry. But we can definitely help you on my forum!
You weren’t too loud at all, great video thank you
What about two wire CKP ...? How do those work..?
I have some videos on those too! It would be in my Chapter 21 playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLAFYVCyenqcqEN41aYznWn9Nfhy1PiMjo.html
ScannerDanner
Excellent, it’s actually for a BMW motorcycle that runs CAN system, it’s stumped me, but eventually I’ll find it’s fault somehow..
Very helpful. Thanks
NICE JOB PAUL! Oops, sorry I was yelling. Haha
Awesome video! Also everytime I see you I couldnt quite remember who you reminded me of. The other day it struck me. You could be HHHs twin from wrestling
😂😂
( "the scope is the way to go" ScannerDanner ) need that on a T-shirt ha ha.
where can i find that pin you have!!!!!in the picture?
What if there's no ground wire on the crankshaft position sensor plug only high resolution signal, low reference and 12v reference
thank you scanner
Mr. @ScannerDanner, you mentioned slowing the crank down to test for signal but did not mention one can manually turn the crank while checking the signal. I found in my Acadia (pull-down system) with P0335, I only saw 0V at signal while manually turning the crank. I then found the connector had signal and ground wires exposed and shorted to each other. I trust the ECU and sensor are still intact. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
"KEEP CRANKING KEEP CRANKING" 🙂
I bought a Verus. Tried to read a crank signal on a Mitsubishi Endeavor V6 the other day by connecting it to signal and ground on the sensor. It read a solid 12v during cranking. The car WILL start intermittently and run. I was using the information provided by Mitchell on the Guided Component Test settings with the scope. So confused.
Connect your ground lead to battery ground and then measure each wire individually and redo your tests
Very good video. Thanks SD :)
So do you always get a 5-12v feed/signal voltage? Because on my A6 1.8T I get 2.59 on both. There's nothing wrong with the car so I'm wondering if this isn't just a design issue?
I've heard some of the Euro cars use a 3v reference. But I've not seen that
@@ScannerDanner ah, there you go, then. Gotta love German engineering! I saw the video on which you were complaining about that Jetta with the Evap valve and the poor design of the sequential testing. You should see how VCDS works one day (unless you already have) that's about the worst interface design ever.
Awesome. South Aftica
would an analogue meter pick up the 5v signal better?
no sir, too low of resistance on an analog meter