The original videos from this one were from 2011. I am teaching to a class of 20 students and I was still a rookie with the camera, so sorry for shouting at times in the video. I am projecting my voice to the class and not realizing how loud I am to the camera. This is still a great video for those who want to know how to test a hall effect type cam or crank sensor and they do not have a scope.
Thanks. For bringing this knowledge and educational videos. Sr im pretty sure a lot off us appreciate it. Not all of us have access to a DSO. Thanks. Again
Great video. It would have been pretty funny if you said, "I was a camera rookie and wanted to make sure the guy standing next to me could hear me clearly."
Great vid. Nice way to remember. Had a 98 ranger today with a new pcm lol. Bad crank sensor. 2 wire but the guided component test in my triton d8 helps a lot. Learned a lot watching you. Thats why i got the d8. The scope removes the guessing. Now i know when im right. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. 👍
Good stuff Professor. Good diagnostic to use on any car with sensors. Good bump info. I'll remember that next time I bump into ya. Have a great one and Happy Motoring. Another excellent snippet.
Very nice video Danner. I liked how you are breaking videos down to segments for us to learn. I really liked how it's was straight and to the point on how to test hall effect sensors. In addition, I liked how you showed us with a volt meter and compared it to a lab scope. Not all of us diy guys have snap on graphing. I always like it when it is explained on which meter leads are connected to which terminal on the battery and what the dvom is set at when doing electrical testing in video during testing of each wire. Because if it's not explained, I can watch a video and not understand exactly how it was done if there person explaining doesn't explain which terminal on battery he connected to and what his dvom was set at while testing the electrical component. Might I say though, I love all of your videos. Thank you.
You couldn't have uploaded this at a better time! i was trying to explain how to test a hall effect sensor over text and I was able to send this instead! thanks for your great videos!
I have a more in depth lecture on this too, right here on UA-cam. Share these with him. Thank you! Hall effect cam/crank sensor operation and testing Part 1 (an SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/fPkZCJgtUko/v-deo.html Hall effect cam/crank sensor operation and testing Part 2 (an SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/BJp2uVXzUqs/v-deo.html
Mr. @ScannerDanner, you mentioned slowing the crank down to test for signal but did not mention one can manually turn the crank while checking the signal. I found in my Acadia (pull-down system) with P0335, I only saw 0V at signal while manually turning the crank. I then found the connector had signal and ground wires exposed and shorted to each other. I trust the ECU and sensor are still intact. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ "KEEP CRANKING KEEP CRANKING" 🙂
Pretty cool doing this stuff in the field and then sitting here after dinner I get a video on it haha. Had a Dodge 5.9 with a no start. For whatever reason my dmm showed both sensor powers and grounds good and then my scanner was showing a good ckp signal and a bad cmp signal. The funny thing is, upon removing the ckp sensor, it was swollen and cracked from oil intrusion from the vc gasket. Installed a new one and it fired right up, yet still shows a bad ckp signal and says out of sync. Silly mopars.
for sure and a great lesson to learn! A faulty cam sensor can set a false crank sensor code and vice versa. And yes, I haven't seen it on any other models but Chrysler :-)
hi and thank you for your excellent work i have a 2016 Mercedes Benz metris having a problem with the camshaft sensor how do you tell which one is camshaft sensor on bank one a because i have on my car thank you
I put a note in the video. The reason is wasn't was because I was connected to battery ground with my dvom. If I was connected to the engine block or sensor ground, it would have been steady.
I never actually understood why my meter wasn't "fast enough" to measure a crank sensor, I just know it isn't. Funny thing is, I've scoped them, but never put 2 & 2 together for the time window of high point voltage verse low point voltage as to why my meter isn't fast enough. But when you explain it, it makes perfect sense. Also, in theory with a meter, you should be able to do KOEO and bar the engine over and be able to observe the high and low points no? (As opposed to the bumping demonstration you did with the key)
That is correct, only reason I do not suggest that is with the key on, you may get a kick from the engine while rotating it by hand, leading to injury. Unlikely, but that is why I do not suggest it.
@@ScannerDannerbest to find a fuse for a fuel pump or disabling spark so you don't get the jump you're talking about. If it's a diesel then disconnecting fuel pump fuse is all it takes
Thanks for sharing SD👍 Looking forward to some more lectures on programming, I really enjoyed & learned a lot from the MKZ series😉 Stay safe & Blessed Bro❤
Hey scannerdanner! Thanks again for all your videos, it’s a ocean full of knowledge! I think I’m ready to buy my scope, i need one to further my diagnosis skills. I registered for my advanced diagnosis class hopefully in the fall, I know you’ve talked about the uscope, I’m on a budget being 20 and paying for college but I received my tax return, I’m stuck between a uscope or a two channel pico. The u scope master kit comes with double the tools for half the price of the two channel pico but having the ability to set markers and zoom in, have a bigger screen, being able to save to my computer I like the pico a lot but I’m getting almost no accessories with the beginner kit. I am a beginner to scopes besides using a verus for fuel pumps and abs sensors. You think spending the extra money on the pico will be better for me in the long run or should I start of smaller with something more user friendly like the UScope?
This is great I just got done checking out my crank sensor and the communication like you done at your brothers shop on the white grand Cherokee now I'm fixing to go through these protocols and I'm telling you buddy without this wealth of information I would have been lost! You are an amazing person to put this out there and I am intrigued I've always worked on older vehicles but this is Cool
Nice way to refresh. I have used a test light to see if I am getting a signal from a hall sensor if I didn't have my scope with me but the meter and slow rotation is the way to go. Thank YOU.PS I ears still hurt 😜
Very nice video. My 2006 mini cooper s don’t keep the 5 volts when I crank. What does it mean? What could be the next test or what do I need to replace? Thanks, Tom
Hello dan i am doing some testing and just need a area where i should i go first vehicle has misfire what do you think what i should check first 1 knock sensor 2 cam sensor 3 crank senskr 4 ect sensor? Hopefully i get a reply
My name is Paul Danner 🙂 and none of the above for a misfire. You've given me nothing to work with here either btw. Year, make, model, engine, codes, symptoms, history etc
I bought a Verus. Tried to read a crank signal on a Mitsubishi Endeavor V6 the other day by connecting it to signal and ground on the sensor. It read a solid 12v during cranking. The car WILL start intermittently and run. I was using the information provided by Mitchell on the Guided Component Test settings with the scope. So confused.
Sir thank you for making these videos for everyone out there and keep doing what you’re doing. Do you have a video on how to determine if the sensor is a hall effect sensor or not?
So do you always get a 5-12v feed/signal voltage? Because on my A6 1.8T I get 2.59 on both. There's nothing wrong with the car so I'm wondering if this isn't just a design issue?
@@ScannerDanner ah, there you go, then. Gotta love German engineering! I saw the video on which you were complaining about that Jetta with the Evap valve and the poor design of the sequential testing. You should see how VCDS works one day (unless you already have) that's about the worst interface design ever.
Shout away, brother! Maybe it will all sink in for me faster if I turn my volume up higher. 😁 Then to make sure everyone watches, you could say at the end of your intro, "Enjoy this video ... OR I'LL KICK YOUR ASS!" No need to thank me for the video tips - it's the least I can do. 😂🤣😂 Just playin' man! GREAT "Quick Tips" series you've been doing. I think these are going to do extremely well for you. Great thinking as usual, brother! 👍🍻 Glad you guys are doing well through all this insanity in the world lately.
Exactly what school taught me. But got a question. Let's say you remove power to the hall sensor. Would the scope show constant 5v or 0v from the signal wire?
I have a question regarding 5v ref on hall effect sensors.u said that it should be steady 5v all the time. what if it is not steady?what would be the problem??
For a hall effect? There is a transistor that will switch on and off to either ground, or positive (5-12v range) depending on the circuit design (pull-up or pull-down)
You can do tests at the PCM in those cases. Some of them anyway. My truck (09 Silverado 6.0) is the same way. I have a video on it if you're interested. It had a bad crank sensor too
Are all hall effect sensors outputting 0-5 digital sq. wave or are some putting out 0-12 sq. wave? Does that depend on the amplifier or the Schmitt trigger?
@@ScannerDanner interesting. I had a case of a bad cam sensor. Code was cam pos sensor open circuit or short to B+. This was in an 05 vw passat 2.8. I checked power and grounds to the sensor. Both present. 5v reference as a power and computer provided ground. However, the signal wire was constantly pegged at 11V. I measured with a fluke dvm. With or without the sensor plugged. The computer was putting out 11V on the signal line, which was ONLY detectable with a dvm. I measured at the sensor side. I measured at the computer. Every time - 11V. I thought the computer was shorted internally. Til I took my led light with integrated volt meter. And it wouldn't measure any voltage. I took a regular old incandesent light and it wouldn't light up at all. But my fluke measured 11V every time. That completely threw me off. So I decided to put a new sensor at that point and the code went away. I don't understand what kind of design this was... could you enlighten me please? Thanks Danner.
@@HristovRumen If you still need help, I've created a free forum you can join on my website at www.scannerdanner.com I have over 28k global members and hand picked moderators who are there to help me help you guys. Hope to see you there! I try to do my best at helping people here but I just can't keep up, I am sorry. But we can definitely help you on my forum!
Please help! Firstly, your videos and knowledge are great! I have a problem with my wife's 04 Buick Lesabre. 3800 series II engine. When I read the voltage in the two signal wires of the CKP sensor it shows wierd stuff.. Unplugged its 6.2V each. With a new ICM its 4.95V each. Problem is when plugged in to ANY ICM: drops to 1.77V and 0.77V and STAYS there no matter what. I tried 4 different sensors. Acdelco, gm geniuine. One of them would drop to 5.5V and 4.5V. But none will recognize the metal teeth of the harmonic balancer. When tested outside, but plugged in its still the same. Its getting power, i checked every wire for damage, but im not sure about grounding because i checked that with key off for resistance. Between sensor ground to ICM ground (g112) there was 1.5- 3 ohms resistance. Is that too much? Whats going on? Car ran the last time when i changed the CKP sensor. It ran for 2 mins then died and never started. Please help
I like it I'm familiar with scope just looking for more experience at reading timing angle got a ram that dealer claims needs expensive hard parts and I Wana make sure that damn rat is not the real problem buried in the wiring
@@ScannerDanner I want to know if have proper signal to injectors on 6.7 Cummins in a ram .working on a 2022 3500 farm truck was driven to the store 10 miles away and it broke down dealer got some flow measurements and are saying all the injectors need to be replaced but this truck spends its time at a hay barn I want to know that it doesn't have wiring damage .
Thanks Paul - Great reminder, DMM at times will read 2.5 Vic on a signal who's frequency is below a certain sample limit. For instance on a Wheel Speed Sensor you may be able to Spin the wheel by hand at a low enough speed and the VMM will read 0.5 Vdc on a 5 V pull down Hall Effect sensor. As always thanks for your great teaching methods on your videos, "Scannerdanner There is NO Substitute !!"
why have I got 12.80 volts between the negative cable, (disconnected) and negative terminal .. the amps blew my volt meter, in amp settings, so I used my new one and there is 12.80 volts, all night.
Normal voltage reading with the cable disconnected. No current flow = no voltage drop, so basically the engine block is now equal potential to battery positive. This is not a good test for really much of anything. Are you the one I've been talking to about the no crank and throttle body buzzing?
yeah, and thanks alot for replying .. I found the videos you made that will help me out, so now I will test the TPS, (Ecm power and grounds) Fuel problem, spark, (ignition coils) the key only works with starter relay hooked up to chassis ground, this could be Ecm problem, I will let you know the TPS voltage back probe test results, in 7hrs, I go back to sleep to now, thanks scanner danner.
I've got some symptoms and some codes, I'm thinking it's bad o2 sensors, I would love to know if you think I'm on the right track? I'm a bit of a rookie mechanic. I'm a delivery driver trying to keep my car on the road so I can keep working. My car is a 2009 Pontiac G5 with the 2.2 ecotec, naturally aspirated, 5 spd with 104k km's on the it. It runs flawlessly up until this new glitch, New spark plugs, air and fuel filter since I bought it. I did notice it was starting to get slightly worse gas mileage before it started messing up. The first time it happened I was at a rolling start slowly accelerating when all of a sudden it started stuttering really bad and tried to stall, I pushed the clutch in and dropped it down a gear and it seemed to sort itself out (no codes popped up yet) then about 20 mins it did it again so I parked it, I tried unplugging the battery to let it reset and tried to drive it again the next night, again as soon as it got warm it started doing it again and finally threw up the engine light. (I did not have a code reader at the time) At first I thought fuel pump, but fuel pressure is at 60psi while running and holds a solid 50psi for sometime after the engine is turned off (so I'm assuming it is good) I bought a code reader yesterday and it gave a EVA and o2s symbol with codes P0336 crankshaft sensor, and P0102-001, P0113-00. from my research I'm seeing that o2 sensors should be changed around 100k km's and a couple online friends said they should be my issue... But I can't afford to be wrong and waste money right now.
Got a question. KOEO Back probing a cam sensor on 5v ref I have 5v. On ckp sensor back probing 5v ref is 9v. Ckp unplugged its 5 volts. shorted internal ckp? 97 s2000 2.2l std trans.
@@ScannerDanner 1st - LOVE THE CHANNEL! 2nd, Thanks for replying. Honda makes the s2000. Unplugged I have battery voltage, ground and a 5v ref. (Used a Mitchell flow chart procedure). The car has had 3 cheap cheezemo ckp sensors installed at a shop. Same issues. P0335- no signal detected and runs like 💩, no acceleration and bogging. I ordered a ckp from Honda will be here Monday. I’ve done a test with a volt meter while the ckp plugged in back probing and using a socket to act as a trigger. The voltage barely moves. I test the cmp the same way and all works as it should. Was curious about the 9v ref while plugged in.
Thank you so much for all these wonderful videos, i normally speed up the video to x 1.75 above the normal, and i can get all the content with limited free time, and no your voice doesn't sound like the 'Chipmunks' 🙂👍
@@ScannerDanner Soz,,Paul,,, a Grandfather,,WOT,,your Kidding,,right???,,OMG what age did you settle down with a family,,a 6 year old,,HEHE,,,🙂,,just joking man,, your looking good for an old/young Dinosaur ,,,whatever your doing,,keep going,,we wana see more video's into the next Millenium and beyond,,like Buz light year,,into infinity and beyond, take care my friend, highest respects, and warmest regards 🙂😇
The power prob hook is a really good tool check it out. I use my hook on a daily basis. You can see source voltage,amps,and resistance all at the same time. There is a pulse width mood and bias volt from .5v to10v, and much more.
Great video! The premium channel has been awesome! I am 50 years old and have worked on cars all my life and learning new things everyday on the premium channel! I feel like I'm getting the better end of the deal since the price is so reasonable! Thanks again!
Great info. I’m trying to figure out a 2014 equinox no start issue. I understand that using an oscilloscope would be ideal. My computer is giving me p0017. I have replaced all sensors, timing chain and cam phasers. Double checked the timing chain it’s correct. Sometimes the 2.4 ecotec will start and it runs great. When I turn it off it won’t start. I’m thinking if the reluctor ring has moved on the crankshaft I would get a p0016 and p0117. Any thought and how much is a house
Very good explained, i have an extra question, i removed the sensor, the resistance was ok, when i simulated heat with a hairdryer and the resistance rises to thousands & hundreds of kOhm, is it ok, or that mean it's not working?
you can, but there is a slight chance of the engine kicking on you with the key on and that may break a hand or arm if it does. I don't recommend that. Bump the starter instead
Man, you are shouting! :))))) The DMM makes an integration of the signal, or an integral, as a mathematician would say, and that's why the voltage is so low. That is the energy in that wave actually.
At 4:35 the multimeter must read the same voltage at all speed , because the wide and the amplitude of the signal will never change, only frequency change
The original videos from this one were from 2011. I am teaching to a class of 20 students and I was still a rookie with the camera, so sorry for shouting at times in the video. I am projecting my voice to the class and not realizing how loud I am to the camera.
This is still a great video for those who want to know how to test a hall effect type cam or crank sensor and they do not have a scope.
Thanks. For bringing this knowledge and educational videos. Sr im pretty sure a lot off us appreciate it. Not all of us have access to a DSO. Thanks. Again
Great video. It would have been pretty funny if you said, "I was a camera rookie and wanted to make sure the guy standing next to me could hear me clearly."
never mind , your shouting is accepted
Your videos are truly excellent. If only I could afford the scanning equipment --at 65 years old, it's doubtful as no rich relatives left either LOL
@@abdullbasitosman5070 😂😁
Great vid. Nice way to remember. Had a 98 ranger today with a new pcm lol. Bad crank sensor. 2 wire but the guided component test in my triton d8 helps a lot. Learned a lot watching you. Thats why i got the d8. The scope removes the guessing. Now i know when im right. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. 👍
This video not ok for beginner as me.
Good stuff Professor. Good diagnostic to use on any car with sensors.
Good bump info. I'll remember that next time I bump into ya.
Have a great one and Happy Motoring. Another excellent snippet.
Ha! I was just thinking about you...
Very nice video Danner. I liked how you are breaking videos down to segments for us to learn. I really liked how it's was straight and to the point on how to test hall effect sensors. In addition, I liked how you showed us with a volt meter and compared it to a lab scope. Not all of us diy guys have snap on graphing. I always like it when it is explained on which meter leads are connected to which terminal on the battery and what the dvom is set at when doing electrical testing in video during testing of each wire. Because if it's not explained, I can watch a video and not understand exactly how it was done if there person explaining doesn't explain which terminal on battery he connected to and what his dvom was set at while testing the electrical component. Might I say though, I love all of your videos. Thank you.
Great explanation is always on a difficult subject electronics
You couldn't have uploaded this at a better time! i was trying to explain how to test a hall effect sensor over text and I was able to send this instead! thanks for your great videos!
I have a more in depth lecture on this too, right here on UA-cam. Share these with him. Thank you!
Hall effect cam/crank sensor operation and testing Part 1 (an SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/fPkZCJgtUko/v-deo.html
Hall effect cam/crank sensor operation and testing Part 2 (an SD Premium video) ua-cam.com/video/BJp2uVXzUqs/v-deo.html
ScannerDanner perfect! Will do!
The scope's the way to go, but sometimes all you have is a DMM, like when doing a (on the the road) service call.
Short and to the point! These educational snippets are great for people with ADD - keep them coming :)
Glad you like them!
Thanks scanner danner great from Nicaragua..i would want studys with you here not there is school for leaners..excellent
You’re an excellent teacher. Those students are so lucky
Thank you so much!
Mr. @ScannerDanner, you mentioned slowing the crank down to test for signal but did not mention one can manually turn the crank while checking the signal. I found in my Acadia (pull-down system) with P0335, I only saw 0V at signal while manually turning the crank. I then found the connector had signal and ground wires exposed and shorted to each other. I trust the ECU and sensor are still intact. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
"KEEP CRANKING KEEP CRANKING" 🙂
Dear ScannerDanner thank you for the best basic knowlage.You are the best teacher.
Pretty cool doing this stuff in the field and then sitting here after dinner I get a video on it haha. Had a Dodge 5.9 with a no start. For whatever reason my dmm showed both sensor powers and grounds good and then my scanner was showing a good ckp signal and a bad cmp signal. The funny thing is, upon removing the ckp sensor, it was swollen and cracked from oil intrusion from the vc gasket. Installed a new one and it fired right up, yet still shows a bad ckp signal and says out of sync. Silly mopars.
for sure and a great lesson to learn! A faulty cam sensor can set a false crank sensor code and vice versa. And yes, I haven't seen it on any other models but Chrysler :-)
@@ScannerDanner thanks for taking the time to reply dude. Love watching when I have time!!!
Definitely my favorite master technician! Thanks for everything you do to teach us
Thanks I learned something today! You are the best!
hi and thank you for your excellent work i have a 2016 Mercedes Benz metris having a problem with the camshaft sensor how do you tell which one is camshaft sensor on bank one a because i have on my car
thank you
Hello sir it was awesome video and I have question .why signal was not 5 volt constant or I am mistaken
5volt to ECU/PCM
I put a note in the video. The reason is wasn't was because I was connected to battery ground with my dvom. If I was connected to the engine block or sensor ground, it would have been steady.
Great question!
@@ScannerDanner I got that sir thank you from your great information it is awesome man thanks
Great video Scanner Danner and thank you for teaching👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I can buy an E book from you, is there a problem outside of US .. I just read there is a problem with donations outside of the US.
I never actually understood why my meter wasn't "fast enough" to measure a crank sensor, I just know it isn't. Funny thing is, I've scoped them, but never put 2 & 2 together for the time window of high point voltage verse low point voltage as to why my meter isn't fast enough. But when you explain it, it makes perfect sense. Also, in theory with a meter, you should be able to do KOEO and bar the engine over and be able to observe the high and low points no? (As opposed to the bumping demonstration you did with the key)
That is correct, only reason I do not suggest that is with the key on, you may get a kick from the engine while rotating it by hand, leading to injury. Unlikely, but that is why I do not suggest it.
@@ScannerDannerbest to find a fuse for a fuel pump or disabling spark so you don't get the jump you're talking about. If it's a diesel then disconnecting fuel pump fuse is all it takes
You doing good job and I am very Mach happy for you but why can you show as where is your tester led even when you scoop
Any way your choice!!??!
What if there's no ground wire on the crankshaft position sensor plug only high resolution signal, low reference and 12v reference
Wow nice
Thanks for sharing SD👍
Looking forward to some more lectures on programming, I really enjoyed & learned a lot from the MKZ series😉
Stay safe & Blessed Bro❤
Great from Nicaragua scanner danner..thanks
I watch your vdos with thumb up
My pickup coil has negative voltage that is double of positive, can you explain this Paul?
Hey scannerdanner! Thanks again for all your videos, it’s a ocean full of knowledge! I think I’m ready to buy my scope, i need one to further my diagnosis skills. I registered for my advanced diagnosis class hopefully in the fall, I know you’ve talked about the uscope, I’m on a budget being 20 and paying for college but I received my tax return, I’m stuck between a uscope or a two channel pico. The u scope master kit comes with double the tools for half the price of the two channel pico but having the ability to set markers and zoom in, have a bigger screen, being able to save to my computer I like the pico a lot but I’m getting almost no accessories with the beginner kit. I am a beginner to scopes besides using a verus for fuel pumps and abs sensors. You think spending the extra money on the pico will be better for me in the long run or should I start of smaller with something more user friendly like the UScope?
I like these quick lesson videos
Very good video. Thanks SD :)
Bumping the key is a great tip!
Good info in this video
This is great I just got done checking out my crank sensor and the communication like you done at your brothers shop on the white grand Cherokee now I'm fixing to go through these protocols and I'm telling you buddy without this wealth of information I would have been lost! You are an amazing person to put this out there and I am intrigued I've always worked on older vehicles but this is Cool
Man I was just thinking today after seeing your book in my work bag what you’ve been up to. Really glad to see more videos from you.
Excellent.
Check for air gap between inductor wheel and metal chips on magnet or sensor also. Found no start from this also.
Good show.
something you would never catch on a voltmeter, but the scope would reign supreme :-)
Nice way to refresh. I have used a test light to see if I am getting a signal from a hall sensor if I didn't have my scope with me but the meter and slow rotation is the way to go. Thank YOU.PS I ears still hurt 😜
I love these videos!!!
Thanks for the Video SD 🙋♂️👨🔧
Thanks for your wonderful channel. You are awesome.
What a shout that is...👍👍
seems like you could even turn it over by hand and get the meter to see a broader picture of that window does anyone do this?
I'm so glad you told me why you're shouting lol I was like WTF
I think that now all those escanners and escopes come with the new cars you buy; as a *pack*
This was a great video Paul thanks for sharing this.
Very nice video. My 2006 mini cooper s don’t keep the 5 volts when I crank. What does it mean? What could be the next test or what do I need to replace? Thanks, Tom
You need to verify the ECM is maintaining its ignition and battery feeds during cranking
Hello dan i am doing some testing and just need a area where i should i go first vehicle has misfire what do you think what i should check first 1 knock sensor 2 cam sensor 3 crank senskr 4 ect sensor? Hopefully i get a reply
My name is Paul Danner 🙂 and none of the above for a misfire.
You've given me nothing to work with here either btw. Year, make, model, engine, codes, symptoms, history etc
I bought a Verus. Tried to read a crank signal on a Mitsubishi Endeavor V6 the other day by connecting it to signal and ground on the sensor. It read a solid 12v during cranking. The car WILL start intermittently and run. I was using the information provided by Mitchell on the Guided Component Test settings with the scope. So confused.
Connect your ground lead to battery ground and then measure each wire individually and redo your tests
Thank you scannerdanner for sharing your videos
This quick hit format is fantastic. Thank you!
Great to hear!
( "the scope is the way to go" ScannerDanner ) need that on a T-shirt ha ha.
All electrical test are done with some form of voltmeter.
you can also use the ac voltage setting, hz setting and duty cycle setting on the voltmeter.
What kind of multimeter is that bro? Does it have 12 MegaOhms of impedence? If so I might be able to rest my Fluke sometimes. Let me know bro!
The yellow meter? It is a 10 mega-ohm impedance meter, which is absolutely fine for what we do
Best video explaining, Thanks
Sir thank you for making these videos for everyone out there and keep doing what you’re doing. Do you have a video on how to determine if the sensor is a hall effect sensor or not?
If it's a 3-wire it is most likely a hall effect. Thank you!
The 2-wire crank and cam sensor designs produce and AC sign wave
where can i find that pin you have!!!!!in the picture?
So do you always get a 5-12v feed/signal voltage? Because on my A6 1.8T I get 2.59 on both. There's nothing wrong with the car so I'm wondering if this isn't just a design issue?
I've heard some of the Euro cars use a 3v reference. But I've not seen that
@@ScannerDanner ah, there you go, then. Gotta love German engineering! I saw the video on which you were complaining about that Jetta with the Evap valve and the poor design of the sequential testing. You should see how VCDS works one day (unless you already have) that's about the worst interface design ever.
NICE JOB PAUL! Oops, sorry I was yelling. Haha
thumbs up shared
I have a 2011 colorado. It reads 8.5 to 8.3v running. I change the sensor and as soon as I touch it it dies. Any suggestions?
Harness connector pin contact issue or broken wire in the insulation right at that connector
Useful info thanks
Shout away, brother! Maybe it will all sink in for me faster if I turn my volume up higher. 😁 Then to make sure everyone watches, you could say at the end of your intro, "Enjoy this video ... OR I'LL KICK YOUR ASS!" No need to thank me for the video tips - it's the least I can do. 😂🤣😂
Just playin' man! GREAT "Quick Tips" series you've been doing. I think these are going to do extremely well for you. Great thinking as usual, brother! 👍🍻 Glad you guys are doing well through all this insanity in the world lately.
You are great i watch all your videos i have a lot to learn from your videos
Exactly what school taught me. But got a question. Let's say you remove power to the hall sensor. Would the scope show constant 5v or 0v from the signal wire?
With the sensor unplugged, some will read 5v while others will read 0v. There are two different design signal circuits (pull-up and pull-down)
@@ScannerDanner thanks for the reply!
I have a question regarding 5v ref on hall effect sensors.u said that it should be steady 5v all the time. what if it is not steady?what would be the problem??
I have a question , what causes the voltage drop at sensor? Does pcm drop the volts?
For a hall effect? There is a transistor that will switch on and off to either ground, or positive (5-12v range) depending on the circuit design (pull-up or pull-down)
This is great until you have to drop your starter to be able to access the crank sensor
You can do tests at the PCM in those cases. Some of them anyway. My truck (09 Silverado 6.0) is the same way. I have a video on it if you're interested. It had a bad crank sensor too
Good presentation and video. Thx
Are all hall effect sensors outputting 0-5 digital sq. wave or are some putting out 0-12 sq. wave? Does that depend on the amplifier or the Schmitt trigger?
Some are 5, some are 12 and it depends on the signal circuit design in the computer as well. Some are a pull-up design and some are pull-down
@@ScannerDanner interesting. I had a case of a bad cam sensor. Code was cam pos sensor open circuit or short to B+. This was in an 05 vw passat 2.8. I checked power and grounds to the sensor. Both present. 5v reference as a power and computer provided ground. However, the signal wire was constantly pegged at 11V. I measured with a fluke dvm. With or without the sensor plugged. The computer was putting out 11V on the signal line, which was ONLY detectable with a dvm. I measured at the sensor side. I measured at the computer. Every time - 11V. I thought the computer was shorted internally. Til I took my led light with integrated volt meter. And it wouldn't measure any voltage. I took a regular old incandesent light and it wouldn't light up at all. But my fluke measured 11V every time. That completely threw me off. So I decided to put a new sensor at that point and the code went away. I don't understand what kind of design this was... could you enlighten me please? Thanks Danner.
@@HristovRumen If you still need help, I've created a free forum you can join on my website at www.scannerdanner.com I have over 28k global members and hand picked moderators who are there to help me help you guys. Hope to see you there! I try to do my best at helping people here but I just can't keep up, I am sorry. But we can definitely help you on my forum!
Please help! Firstly, your videos and knowledge are great! I have a problem with my wife's 04 Buick Lesabre. 3800 series II engine. When I read the voltage in the two signal wires of the CKP sensor it shows wierd stuff.. Unplugged its 6.2V each. With a new ICM its 4.95V each. Problem is when plugged in to ANY ICM: drops to 1.77V and 0.77V and STAYS there no matter what. I tried 4 different sensors. Acdelco, gm geniuine. One of them would drop to 5.5V and 4.5V. But none will recognize the metal teeth of the harmonic balancer. When tested outside, but plugged in its still the same. Its getting power, i checked every wire for damage, but im not sure about grounding because i checked that with key off for resistance. Between sensor ground to ICM ground (g112) there was 1.5- 3 ohms resistance. Is that too much? Whats going on? Car ran the last time when i changed the CKP sensor. It ran for 2 mins then died and never started. Please help
I like it I'm familiar with scope just looking for more experience at reading timing angle got a ram that dealer claims needs expensive hard parts and I Wana make sure that damn rat is not the real problem buried in the wiring
What test are you trying to do? I have some good stuff on mechanical testing using a scope.
@@ScannerDanner I want to know if have proper signal to injectors on 6.7 Cummins in a ram .working on a 2022 3500 farm truck was driven to the store 10 miles away and it broke down dealer got some flow measurements and are saying all the injectors need to be replaced but this truck spends its time at a hay barn I want to know that it doesn't have wiring damage .
Thanks Paul - Great reminder, DMM at times will read 2.5 Vic on a signal who's frequency is below a certain sample limit. For instance on a Wheel Speed Sensor you may be able to Spin the wheel by hand at a low enough speed and the VMM will read 0.5 Vdc on a 5 V pull down Hall Effect sensor. As always thanks for your great teaching methods on your videos, "Scannerdanner There is NO Substitute !!"
I meant VMM will read 2.5 Vdc , 5 V , 50% duty cycle wave form, if the frequency is below the Sample limit, thanks.
Yes sir and thank you!
why have I got 12.80 volts between the negative cable, (disconnected) and negative terminal .. the amps blew my volt meter, in amp settings, so I used my new one and there is 12.80 volts, all night.
Normal voltage reading with the cable disconnected. No current flow = no voltage drop, so basically the engine block is now equal potential to battery positive. This is not a good test for really much of anything. Are you the one I've been talking to about the no crank and throttle body buzzing?
yeah, and thanks alot for replying .. I found the videos you made that will help me out, so now I will test the TPS, (Ecm power and grounds) Fuel problem, spark, (ignition coils) the key only works with starter relay hooked up to chassis ground, this could be Ecm problem, I will let you know the TPS voltage back probe test results, in 7hrs, I go back to sleep to now, thanks scanner danner.
Excellent SD.
Once again, on the other side of the world, you are saving my cars from going straight into the scrap yard. Thanks
Awesome. South Africa
KNOWLEDGEABLE
Sir ScannerDanner good morning 🙏 🌄 Take care and have a great day Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great video!
Wow this was so helpful and understandable.
Glad it was helpful!
I've got some symptoms and some codes, I'm thinking it's bad o2 sensors, I would love to know if you think I'm on the right track? I'm a bit of a rookie mechanic. I'm a delivery driver trying to keep my car on the road so I can keep working.
My car is a 2009 Pontiac G5 with the 2.2 ecotec, naturally aspirated, 5 spd with 104k km's on the it. It runs flawlessly up until this new glitch, New spark plugs, air and fuel filter since I bought it. I did notice it was starting to get slightly worse gas mileage before it started messing up. The first time it happened I was at a rolling start slowly accelerating when all of a sudden it started stuttering really bad and tried to stall, I pushed the clutch in and dropped it down a gear and it seemed to sort itself out (no codes popped up yet) then about 20 mins it did it again so I parked it, I tried unplugging the battery to let it reset and tried to drive it again the next night, again as soon as it got warm it started doing it again and finally threw up the engine light. (I did not have a code reader at the time)
At first I thought fuel pump, but fuel pressure is at 60psi while running and holds a solid 50psi for sometime after the engine is turned off (so I'm assuming it is good) I bought a code reader yesterday and it gave a EVA and o2s symbol with codes P0336 crankshaft sensor, and P0102-001, P0113-00.
from my research I'm seeing that o2 sensors should be changed around 100k km's and a couple online friends said they should be my issue... But I can't afford to be wrong and waste money right now.
So what does a bad sensor wave look like? How do I know the sensor is bad?
You can't see the waveform with a voltmeter. All you can see is activity. It's a guide test only
Got a question. KOEO Back probing a cam sensor on 5v ref I have 5v. On ckp sensor back probing 5v ref is 9v. Ckp unplugged its 5 volts. shorted internal ckp? 97 s2000 2.2l std trans.
Who makes the s2000? Some systems used a 9v ref.
What are the voltage levels on all 3 wires plugged in and unplugged? (KOEO)
@@ScannerDanner 1st - LOVE THE CHANNEL! 2nd, Thanks for replying. Honda makes the s2000. Unplugged I have battery voltage, ground and a 5v ref. (Used a Mitchell flow chart procedure). The car has had 3 cheap cheezemo ckp sensors installed at a shop. Same issues. P0335- no signal detected and runs like 💩, no acceleration and bogging. I ordered a ckp from Honda will be here Monday. I’ve done a test with a volt meter while the ckp plugged in back probing and using a socket to act as a trigger. The voltage barely moves. I test the cmp the same way and all works as it should. Was curious about the 9v ref while plugged in.
@@ScannerDanner figured it out. Needs 5 v not 9v.
These videos are awesome!
Thank you so much for all these wonderful videos, i normally speed up the video to x 1.75 above the normal, and i can get all the content with limited free time, and no your voice doesn't sound like the 'Chipmunks' 🙂👍
I do the same when reviewing my sons edits. I watch at 1.5 mostly 😃
Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner c'mon Dan, you don't look old enough to have a son that is in videoing and editing, you're a spring chicken man ,,,, Lol 🙂👍
@@sollykhan2385 my names Paul Danner (I get Dan a lot lol)
And yeah, I'm actually a grandfather 🙂
@@ScannerDanner Soz,,Paul,,, a Grandfather,,WOT,,your Kidding,,right???,,OMG what age did you settle down with a family,,a 6 year old,,HEHE,,,🙂,,just joking man,, your looking good for an old/young Dinosaur ,,,whatever your doing,,keep going,,we wana see more video's into the next Millenium and beyond,,like Buz light year,,into infinity and beyond, take care my friend, highest respects, and warmest regards 🙂😇
@@sollykhan2385 I'll be fifty in May. I have 4 kids and 1 grandkid and yes I started young. Married my wife at 24. I'm truly blessed man, thank you!
Awesome. South Aftica
Great vid, thank u for that bro. Can we make this test with prow power prob IV
Yes, of course. It does content a voltmeter
@@ScannerDanner do you have anything belongs power prob iv tester that can help me to use
@@ScannerDanner do you have anything belongs power prob iv tester in your channel that can help me to use
Type in "power probe" in the video search box on my channel page. I have a few
The power prob hook is a really good tool check it out. I use my hook on a daily basis. You can see source voltage,amps,and resistance all at the same time. There is a pulse width mood and bias volt from .5v to10v, and much more.
Great video! The premium channel has been awesome! I am 50 years old and have worked on cars all my life and learning new things everyday on the premium channel! I feel like I'm getting the better end of the deal since the price is so reasonable! Thanks again!
Thank you Robert!
@@ScannerDanner which premium channnel he is talking about.?plz let me know
@@mehfoozali9718 www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Great info. I’m trying to figure out a 2014 equinox no start issue. I understand that using an oscilloscope would be ideal. My computer is giving me p0017. I have replaced all sensors, timing chain and cam phasers. Double checked the timing chain it’s correct. Sometimes the 2.4 ecotec will start and it runs great. When I turn it off it won’t start. I’m thinking if the reluctor ring has moved on the crankshaft I would get a p0016 and p0117. Any thought and how much is a house
I know this is an old thread but I noticed Subaru crosstrek uses a 12 volt feed
Ignore me I commented too soon. I see u did mention other systems😂
No problem
Very good explained, i have an extra question, i removed the sensor, the resistance was ok, when i simulated heat with a hairdryer and the resistance rises to thousands & hundreds of kOhm, is it ok, or that mean it's not working?
Wow. Very well done.
Could you turn the engine over by hand and check the signals with a Voltmeter?
you can, but there is a slight chance of the engine kicking on you with the key on and that may break a hand or arm if it does. I don't recommend that. Bump the starter instead
@@ScannerDanner Thanks for the Replay ! Great Video's ! Keep them coming !
Man, you are shouting! :)))))
The DMM makes an integration of the signal, or an integral, as a mathematician would say, and that's why the voltage is so low. That is the energy in that wave actually.
At 4:35 the multimeter must read the same voltage at all speed , because the wide and the amplitude of the signal will never change, only frequency change
Hi Mr Danner, What happens if You set Your voltmeter to AC? :-)
With the scope you can measure also the rev number while cranking measuring time interval between High signal ( period time) .
thank you scanner
how i wished you were my teacher 🙄
thanks for sharing SC,
it helps a lot even tho it spinned my brain for a second 😅