P0340 Cam Sensor Circuit Code (New Sensor Installed)
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- The vehicle being tested is 2010 Jeep Wrangler but the tests shown in the video apply to hall effect type cam, crank and speed sensors.
Video Breakdown:
Introduction clip
:52 - customer complaint (cam sensor fault code P0340)
1:32 - fault code list
3:57 - clearing and re-creating the code
4:30 - know your circuit designs! (ScannerDanner Premium)
5:45 - Snap-on guided component test meter for help with wiring
6:50 - pin voltage tests
7:50 - confirmed signal circuit integrity (engine computer is NOT the problem!)
8:40 - what the cam sensor signal looks like with engine running
11:00 - internal design of a "pull-down" type hall effect (picture from my book)
11:10 - step by step flow chart (picture from my book)
11:22 - description, operation and testing (picture from my book)
11:42 - making sure the pins were wired correctly (new harness connector was previously installed)
14:00 - inspecting the cam sensor for damage
15:36 - hand drawn picture of the trigger wheel
16:44 - visual of the trigger wheel (tone ring, cam sprocket)
17:53 - trigger the sensor with a piece of metal
20:00 - switching the 5v ref and ground on the sensor (was it wired backwards?)
26:35 - some bonus material provided by ScannerDanner Premium taken from this lecture www.scannerdan...
28:17 - what a pull-down circuit looks like in a hall effect sensor
32:00 - how fast a pull-down type circuit can be tested (end of SD Premium portion)
32:42 - back to the Jeep with a new cam sensor
33:00 - how to set a proper air gap on an adjustable sensor
34:48 - comparing the old sensor to the new sensor when triggered with a piece of metal
37:00 - start-up with the new sensor (long crank time is fixed, code is gone, what scan data PIDs look like with a working sensor and what a good waveform should look like)
40:10 - final wrap up pf what we did and where to get more training (ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdanner.com)
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdan... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
This is so cool! This all sounded so intimidating to me at the beginning of the video. I mean, a brand new part was put in and still didn't work... I can totally understand why someone (like me) would then suspect the computer was the culprit. A professional garage had this car and they were ready to call the computer. But you used your amazing teaching of simple circuit design to figure out the computer was functioning just fine, the wiring was fine, so the brand new part had to be the culprit. Man, I just love your book! I just finished a couple of days ago reading it all the way through for the third time. I'm actually starting to get this stuff. What seemed so complicated is beginning to seem kind of simple. That's a sign of a good teacher! I was eating lunch in a restaurant after church today and telling someone about your book. Thanks for making what seems so complicated actually understandable!
Just wanted to say a quick thank you to all of you that support what I am doing. As a lot of you know, ad revenue alone does not pay enough to justify the time involved to produce these types of videos. With filming and editing, there is probably over 15 hours in what you just watched. This is why other creators ask for Patreon donations! I've been asked why I don't offer this, and the reason I don't is because of my Premium channel and book. Instead of supporting me with a donation here, you can support me and get something back in return! In my opinion, what I offer is better than just a donation. If you are dedicated and really want to learn this stuff, my Premium channel and videos can change your life! So consider signing up for my 14 day free trial and at least check it out. Thanks so much for helping me make this possible. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium/subscribe-to/3-scannerdanner-premium.html
The best instructor in my opinion thanks Paul
As soon as I finish the book I'll be signing up.
I’m a member and a SD Premium and supporter. It’s worth every cent and I just feel that I owe him for all his time and effort and also his teaching when I 1st got started in the real life of diagnostics. Now I’m a bad ass just like him. His book is a great learning tool and most of all a great reference book just in case you forget how certain things work.
The SD Premium channel is absolutely wonderful any many ways.
Paul, you def get more than just "a little back". Before the days of youtube, in the late 80's early 90's, I always wanted to make a VCR tape of how to diagnose computer controlled cars...but didnt have knowledge or experience (thank God when OBD2 came along and digital recording). When I came across your vids I was like YEA! And when you confirmed importance of the voltage test over the ohms test, again Yea! Your not only a great tech but even better at verbalizing what you are doing....but a God fearing great family man w/a lovely family. Thx for your troubles. We the viewers def appreciate you
@@wenseslao521 Thank you so much
Nice 6years as a tech and still learning thanks man...
It is nice to hear someone say the words "I am not familiar" it keeps you human and honest. Ty
1) I cannot believe that I have been so into this that it's already past midnight.
2) Don't take this as an insult, but now (as a bush mechanic without the scan tools) I don't feel quit so silly trying to find a crank but no start issue on my own vehicle. I see that even a pro such as yourself can begin to start scratching his head as to what may be going on.
I certainly appreciate the video's and pro-tips that you post on UA-cam!
Thanks
I sole ‘proprietored’ an electronics repair shop for many years ..and replaced many he sensors ..this is a great forensic breakdown of the application and use/design of these simple electro-mechanical active devices ..great job Dan ..
Great video danner we appreciate every single moment of your time trying to teach us new things .. thanks
Paul I have seen quite a few videos of replacement electronic equipment being faulty. In fact, diagnose Dan just recently posted a video of two defective wheel speed sensors being defective. Makes it tough for the diyer because some electrical components are not returnable and we would question our troubleshooting So glad I have your book and class. Get the book guys will save you a lot of grief. ❤️️
I'm blown away. You sir are a real badass. Thankyou so much. I've got a Mercedes with cam correlation code, yet the visual inspection shows timing is not off
Love your detail in your content. I would enjoy your book I bet. I was an instructor for 12 years in the motorcycle industry and we often used your videos in class to get a deeper understanding in the "scan" world as it is finally being encompassed in the 2-wheeled world. I work for an OE now in training. Hope to connect sometime. Once again I get all the work and time you put into this as I have over 600 videos myself on my channel, so from one creator to another...thank you "Keep Wrenching" Shane Conley-How2Wrench
Thanks Shane! I'm going to go check out your channel now.
172,000 subscribers. UA-cam is still living u. Great vid. Like the good old days.
Thanks Paul, great video. I am a member of your premium channel and have your book. I just want to say this really messed my mind up because in all your lectures you always show the transistor being a part of the PCM and with the cam sensor it is internal to it. I just wanted to point this out because your students may have the same problem understanding the pull up and pull down design when the transistor is moved.
Keep watching my friend. I have a ton of lectures showing the difference with "electronic switch inputs". This video had a clip in it from on of many lectures on this topic. Also spend some time in chapter 21 in my hall effect lectures too. Thanks again!
Ahhh, now for the curve ball, some coil on plug ignitions have the transistor in the coil itself (usually 3 wire coils) and some have the transistor in the coil AND an additional 4th wire as a "check" wire to see if the coil has fired properly.
Before I started watching your videos (and others) I never had a way to "see" electrical signals. Having a scope and the ability to see electricity had made understanding systems so much easier. The fix gave me goosebumps too. :)
haha for sure! And to those without a scope, it does help to see it so you know what you are looking for on your DMM and what the weaknesses are.
I work in an auto parts shop. Recently we identified an issue with 3 different aftermarket suppliers of ignition coil to suit Toyota 3SGE motor where none of them would work in the Altezza yet as far as we know they work fine in every other Toyota that uses that motor. Only genuine would work. The PCM must be extra fussy about feedback signal or current draw in that model.
My friend, your channel has just become a treasure to me. After 4 years trying to diagnose a P0335 code in my Vauxhall Astra which starts & drives perfectly and doing everything but buy a new car to stop it, I am now really getting to learn what 'other' problems might be tricking the computer into believing it's one thing but is in fact emanating from another. As I am analytically minded and interested in engineering etc but not qualified as a mechanic or tech, these are brilliant instructional videos bud, really top draw stuff. The faulty cam sensor video triggering the CKP error was a light bulb moment for me, and one I am now going to start testing for. You know your beans that's for sure.
Welcome and thank you!
Try sticking an allan key in a cordless drill and spinning it in front of your sensor, for crank sensors you can get the rev counter to work
nice idea
It's getting harder to get new parts you can trust. Although with Chrysler CMP and O2 sensors, OEM is your best bet.(if you can afford them) Thanks for the excellent vid.
anti chuckle list oem for that sensor Chrysler is $97. Autozone $57 for who knows what quality. Online oem $63 if you can wait. Might get a discount if you talk the dealer into it. Overall, what’s your time worth. I want it done the first time and I want it to last so I shoot for oem or very high quality aftermarket. Autozone or Napa garbage can stay on their shelf.
Even in the Chrysler shop manual it is often confusing if the connector diagram is looking at the end of the connector or the backside (or into sensor), plus not always easy to tell which side is the locking tab. Seems they could spell it out better, or perhaps it is in a little footnote somewhere. Looks like this might be the Chrysler 3.8L like in our 2002 minivan. I know that some Jeeps got that (longitudinal version), instead of the 4.0L straight-six. A fine engine, but many Jeep fans berated it. I recall in my minivan the supply voltage is 8 VDC, shared with the crank sensor. The cam sensor looks identical. The 0.6 V you see is about the forward drop of a diode. A transistor is somewhat like two diodes in series, so if one "diode" is failed shorted, you might see a 0.6 V drop when it should be off, but I'll let an EE comment. I do know that transistors most commonly fail shorted.
Yes, I have also had quite a few questionable new parts. Seems like a lot of them are made by the same manufacturer, just put in another brand's box . Paul this is were your training is so valuable, by knowing how the basics in the system work you can fight your thru to a successful repair. Don't be a parts changer! It's great that you are bringing content to you tube it shows people how important your paid in depth training really is.
I have seen your videos ( You Tube and paid) many times, and each time I pick up something new. NEVER stop learning ! Thanks Paul
Thanks Steven! Do you think I included too much of the classroom lecture (SD Premium stuff) on this one? Maybe I should have kept it to 3 minutes instead of 6? I felt like it was a good time to show the lecture and how much it totally applied to this situation. It is always tough to call a bad new part and knowing circuit design was the key.
Paul, I used to work for Federated Auto Parts, and we, along with a lot of other parts stores had a policy that you couldn't return sensors and modules if they had been installed. Have you ever had a problem getting a part replaced after it was bad right out of the box? There is an epidemic of crappy sensors out there these days. At least for my own vehicle, I grab whatever OE sensors I can grab every time I go to the salvage yard, just so I have an OE part to replace them with if they ever go bad. I started doing that after having to put 5 different TPS' on my Durango in 1 year.
When I worked in the field full time, I didn't have too much trouble. Also for 5 of those years I worked for Pep Boys so the company itself was providing the parts, so again, not a problem. I know it is a struggle though for sure.
This was fantastic! Been fighting this on my 2015 Rubicon for weeks.
I'm an Electrical Engineer for an aerospace company, and while the schematics I had were somewhat helpful, your description of the sensor role in-circuit helped out.
I was about to relinquish control of the troubleshooting to the dealership, but after watching this, I'm eager to jump back in. After I changed the shocks out, I think something I think I just disturbed something in one of the wiring harnesses. Likely just shorting to an adjacent line. Will post results when I get shop time. Thank you!
Looking forward to it!
So?
@@TheRoadLessChosen Code was wrong.....suggested to replace the bank 1 Camshaft Pos sensor and it ended up being the bank 2 camshaft position sensor.... or vice versa. Reading the resistance between the pins on the sensor showed different resistances. Replaced the camshaft position sensor on the opposite side that it suggested and it fixed it. Never came back....
Concerning bad parts (specially electrical) when I purchase a replacement part I ALWAYS perform a test to see if it is working as it's supposed to before installing it!.Safe me both some valuable time and unessesary frustration!
Awesome video Paul, thats why I am a paid subscriber. Like the way you detailed function wise. how the CPU is interpreting the return signal via the voltage drop across internal CPU resistor, when Transistor opens and shorts to ground. Well done.
Much appreciated! Thank you so much for supporting what I'm doing, even when I drop a good video on the free channel 😉
This guy needs to be paid in gold bricks.
Sign up for Paul's premium channel, you will not regret it! Paul you have absolutely made me a better technician and have a great style of teaching.
I'm with he needs to be paid in gold bricks he is a computer running and he understands everything about it great teacher as well thank u for this video u just taught me so much going to be paying u some money u deserve every penny!!
It's a must to do full scan I've gotten a few tips from a code in the TCM not registered in the MiL.
I'm still on the previous update no auto codes and fast code scan. Looks awesome.
Paul you actually sounded like you knew what you were talking about this time. lol Seriously though a newbie coming along could pick up a lot of info in this video. Good stuff!
It never gets old watching you, hope and pray you and your faimly are OK and God bless you all
Thanks Paul!
How can i squeez in a 40 minute scanner danner video when i have to open the shop in 35 minutes????😣😣😣😣😣
Hi Paul..will have to watch in 2 segments. Will leave 2 thumbs up 😀
play it back at 1.5 times the speed :-) (I do this all the time when I add time stamps haha)
ScannerDanner 😂😂😂😂😂
Omg only if i could speed up my energy level 1.5 times...just turned 51 a few weeks ago...😩😩😩😩
@@theadventuresofjavier8698 lol
Javier 86...ahhh, open the shop 5 minutes late!! How many people could be waiting at the door, when you finally get there??
Just imagine, if they really wanted you to open on time, how grateful they will be when you finally get there, to open it, 5 minutes later!
VOILA!! no charge.
roadkill5333 actually people show up 10 to 15 minutes early..i show up 2 hours early so i can miss traffic...true story
Top shelf stuff again Mr Danner.
Stay gold.
This guys got skills! I’m learning so much from your channel. Keep it up 👍
Thanks for the sub!
I've been learning a lot by watching you and south main auto I give you two the credit for teaching me how to check crank and cam sensors in my wife's jeep bad brand new cam sensor
Eric is the man @SouthMainAutoChannel Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner you both are
A parts changer, hands down will change the ecm with same results. A honest mechanic with a solid diagnostics skills will call back the supplier and tell them how poorly those parts are made. It happen to me time to time with the local aftermarket stores.
Your video is really fun to watch. I’m fixing my own car. I thought if you know how to turn bolts and nuts it can be fixing the repair I need to do in my car, but I’m picking up something on this video training demonstration. Thanks and God bless you.
A new Danner video. It's going to be a long 10 o'clock break. Better make some more coffee.
NO NO NONSENSE DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR .
THANKS FOR SHARING THE KNOWLEDGE
Thanks for clear explanation regarding malfunction of sensor circuit.
Great video. I guess by looking at the data it made a difference on the cam sync and cam difference. Maybe just by looking at . you can see possible sensor failure.
yeah, sometimes it helps to look at data, in this case knowing this was a hard fault with the sensor, it really wasn't necessary but I always like to try to show all the available testing methods
Excellent! When you think about it, (and now I can smugly write this since I watched your class on pull-down signals) its not that hard understanding such a basic concept like pullup/pulldown. You almost feel as if everyone should know this by now (as I said, Im only being clever since I watched your vids, I had no idea that a pull down signal existed before and I sure as hell would have agreed it needed a pcm reflash) but look at what that could have lead to. They were ready to call on a PCM!!! What if this was a 4000$ pcm? And they got it wrong? My goodness, just like you said, its so unbelievably necessary to know the absolute basics.
Those "basics" literally saved that guy from a new pcm and additional headaches.
All you did was unplug the sensor and understand what that meant. Haha it sounds almost impossible in its simplicity!!
Amazing job, Im so glad Im signed up to premium.
Amen to all of it and thank you for being a premium member!
Thank you sir, i wish i was told this when I was in tech school. It would of made my job as an instructor easier. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Man, that was cool to watch. I’m just a DIY car guy and new at it, but I’m trying to learn. I recently changed my cam sensor in my 02 Jeep WJ and all I could find locally was Dorman. I put it in and code and stalling went away. Guess I got lucky? I didn’t set any air gap or anything 😬? Again, guess I got lucky. Thanks for the video
Thanks for letting us know more about auto electric and electronics
Great demonstration! Absolutely love watching your videos
Thanks for the video, I had a p0340 code, bought the cheapest sensors I could find thinking if it fixed the problem I'd buy the expensive AC Delcos, but didn't know for sure that was my problem. Truck ran a little worse, it wasn't until I saw your video where you mentioned getting new parts that were already bad, had that lightbulb 💡 moment, went out, cleaned and scrubbed all the built up gook off the old sensor and boom, no more code. Guess my next step is to buy OEM sensors. Never thought that my NEW sensor would be bad well cause gee, it's New. LOL - thanks for giving me something to think about and ultimately fixing my problem.
Thumbs up sir.your are a great technician,mechanic,teacher,,,thanks so much for those lots of videos,,im a big fan sir!
I am always looking to do more with less. I finally bought a scope last years since I thought I absolutely needed one. It have been very handy but a lot of these auto tasks can be diagnosed with a test light.
Your situation here can be dx with a test light. Pull the sensor, leave connected, 12v test light to the cam sensor signal wire and move your piece of metal past the sensor. light will from on to off. Thanks!
you have to be careful on the type of test light you are using, and with the circuit design as you can pull the signal voltage down to zero through the light and not light the light
Golden information once again I would hang this disposable plate on my Mens cave and store it inside a Picture Frame, it's like having the Moses collection on DVDs 📀
I had the same problem with the crank sensor on a 2014 altima 2.5 L. I put in a new $80.00 sensor and still no spark. I thought it was the ECM. Had it towed in. Nissan told me the aftermarket hall effect sensors don't work. Only genuine Nissan sensors work. I learned the hard way.
thanks! i recently put in a NEW (but bad) CKP sensor and its apparently shorted internally- screwing up my fuel level gauge, ignition coil/ignitor(?) and setting off a host of other selonoids- et al! I cleaned all grounds, rebuilt my fuse box, new ECU, cleaned everything........no changes UNTIL i just now decided to swap back in the old CKP sensor. All the electrical clicking, etc went away immediately and Im not going thru the KEY RELEARN process for the new ECU
Shorted the 5v reference circuit out is what it sounds like. That is rather unfortunate 😕
thank you getting back to me i figured it out with your help i did a voltage tested on the new cam sensor to find out the sensor was bad i brought a new one and I'm up and running again thank you for your video
Bad new parts is absolutely plaguing our industry right now. More than I have ever seen in 30 years
AHHHHHHH! you would not believe how many months or mechanics ive gone through before I was finally able to get an honest mechanic to tell me to check that part!!! in 6 months time before it actually gave out it never threw that code 340!!! nor did the check engine light come on! it was just starting whenever it felt like it and eventually took its toll on the battery as well. i replaced the sensor and the battery. car started right up but a longer start time for sure and the check engine light goes on??? still on 4 months later! code never cleared! wont pass smog because nothing reset! then my dear? i found you! and this!!! and i had a feeling all along it was a bad part because of the longer start time and then same code during smog check!!! and because im a woman i can get away with telling you that the scream at the start of my comment was me having an incredible BIG O!!! lmao! your my hero! but i still hate my concord! only 80k miles on this 2000 but have had to replace bcm, fuel rail, both fans and motors!!! then this issue!!! so one more issue and im taking it to the desert outskirts to shoot it and leave it with all the other ponies shot and left out to the elements! hahaha
As always great case study! 👍
I got a problem, I have a 2008 Chevy Colorado 4door 4x4 3.7 5 cylinder automatic transmission. The motor blew a rod, so I bought a 2010 3.7. But the old motor had 1 cam sensor, the 2010 has 2 cam sensors. Has anyone had this problem?
Always interesting and informative. You are the best. Thank you for sharing, professor.
Hoo-Rah!
Each and every video I learn something ,am still budget soon I will buy the ebook 😍😍😍😍 I can't wait
very interesting trying to follow your logic an direction in how you fault find an fix the issue your faced with ...as i said very interesting watching your problem solving skills cheers
Hey I have the opportunity to get a verus Edge. I currently have a modis Edge and love it but have the opportunity to get a verus edge for what would be considered a deal of a lifetime. Would it be worth me going for the verus Edge I know you have had yours for awhile. Love the videos btw thanks for all the knowledge.
Was great video
Have a question
When we get cam sensor code,
What is the fastest way to know if the timing belt or chain is bad?
You saved the customer from a pcm 👍💪 great work n thanks for teaching.
Sadly, you might be right. If someone had changed the PCM, the vehicle owner would probably never have been told the truth. He would have paid for a PCM he didn't need.
That is the way this field is and it is a shame. Props to this garage for wanting to double check before making a call on a bad PCM. It is always difficult when you get bad new parts.
@@fascistpedant758 Even worse, it wouldnt have fixed the issue.
@@ScannerDanner Did that piece of solder fall out of the sensor itself? It was is just loose crap from soldering the wires together that fell in?
@@vertigoalopolus it was from the repair of the harness and it was definitely not a good thing!
Wish I had seen this a few months ago... My subscription to this channel and the premium channel.... Earned! 👍
Oh, and I bought the paper book, too...
Thank you so much! Look forward to watching your progression!
Great video, my Ram ProMaster 2500 started throwing a 0340 yesterday with all the symptoms showing up after 1 day of slow starting as a "pay attention now" warning. Scan shows Bank 1, Sensor 1, so just need to figure out which that is on the 3.6L engine and pick up a sensor. But now I'll have ideas of what else to check if that isn't an immediate fix since I'm multi-meter friendly.
She's a bit of a Unicorn; 352,000 miles on a 2018 (yeah, no typos there) (which actually is
Thank you! Bank 1 is always where the number 1 cylinder is. If you have a scanner, unplug a coil or injector and see what cylinder it flags and then you'll know. 😉
@@ScannerDanner Great suggestion as I do have a code reader. I also seem to be lucky that it is a Ram ProMaster in that I can clearly see both the Camshaft Sensors, so it appears all I have to do is pull the radiator overflow to have enough access for the swap out as opposed to those having to pull the intake manifold.
The docs with the new sensor seem to indicate that they should be both replaced to keep them matched - claiming you can get add'l DTCs from mismatch, and that after clearing the codes, there is a "relearn" procedure to do, which I assume just means to rescan for codes?
Do you recommend replacing both (at $34 ea. not onerous...)
Thanks again.
I remember on the earlier model 3.3 and 3.8's bad crank sensor would throw a cam sensor code,also remember the early saturn's with the 1.9's would throw a cam sensor code and they didn't have a cam sensor
hey scannerdanner, just watched the video, love it and I took your course and have the book! question...what if the voltage signal does not pull down but stay at 5v plug or plugged? Is the circuit still good?
On this design, the signal wire is a 5v pull-down design. So if signal voltage is fixed at 5v, you MUST confirm that the sensor + and - wires are good, and then confirm that the air-gap is set correctly (if it's adjustable) and that there is mechanical movement of the trigger wheel.
This would be chapter 2 "Switch Inputs" on the troubleshooting page of pull-down design circuits that says "signal voltage fixed high"
And yes, signal voltage fixed at 5v (unplugged or plugged in) on this design tells you the signal wire from sensor to computer has no opens or shorts to ground.
@@ScannerDanner Thank you for the speedy reply? I have your book and learned a lot from your online study courses but some times I'll forget or don't completely understand it, so I'll ask my teacher (you) a question for clarification and understanding. What I need to do is sign up for the online courses again. A lot of my fundamentals are lost. Once again, thanks! You are by far the best, from the heart!
Best cam/crank sensor video I have seen
Thank you!
Fantastic Videos and with precised information, Thanks me gaining Hands on Experience
So I have a 2013 JK. I got p0340 code, i tested the connections on both banks. I got 5v,5v,5v,G on both connectors. So I replaced both sensors. Drove it a few days and I got p0344. Any ideas? It's driving my crazy.
Should note that I had my spark plugs replaces by a shop. I specifically told them to use factory OEM. Ever since then I've had delayed start issues which I believe led to my problems. Could the wrong spark plugs cause my issues? I saw a different video where someone was having misfires.
just wanted to know is there a tiny raised niblet on the trigger wheel to bump the air gap gauge off the end of the sensor.? and that gauge is soluble to oil. ?
I guess thats why on the first crank it took tiny bit longer to fire
(time to dis-gaurd that air gap gauge. 👍😜🇦🇺
Old Timer Mechanic: Great Video!
This is incredibly helpful. Thanks so much, Dan. You do man!
Thank you! My name is Paul Danner 😉
Amazing content. Wish I had that computer you are using....lol is the " pulley" the tone ring?
Isn't it the shifting magnetic field which activates the sensor, not the magnetic field? I thought the sensor would react only when you had moving metal close to the sensor
Another amazing video from one of the greatest automotive teachers out there! Keep up the great work!
Yes, Paul is a gifted teacher and an asset to all of us who diagnose vehicles.
thank you so much Nick
@@parochial2356 thank you so much
Great information. Now if I can remember it all. At least I can reference back to this video, thanks so much
I remember once a college professor had drawn a resistor (no value) connected to 5V on the white board....alongside was a visible, unconnected ground, reference symbol....(power, resistor, ground)
A simple question followed, "What is the voltage on the unconnected end of the resistor?"...
Confusion ensued......
Thanks for showing the schematic at 11:00
Great video as always!
I enjoyed your last couple as well FRM!
Did you ever see a pull up hall effect sensor that will not activate the Schmitt trigger when sandboxing it? 01 VW AWD 1.8T. Camshaft position has a noisy decaying in amplitude waveform. When trying to troubleshoot I noticed I could not get a square wave out of it when I put a screwdriver tip in or rotated it about the trigger wheel on the stationary camshaft.
I can certainly spin it faster than cranking it, so I assume I am generating a high enough hall voltage to meet the threshold in the shmitt trigger but evidently there is some condition I am not meeting.
This question is academic as I do get a trigger and (crap) square wave when cranking.
Sometimes you need a more ferrous material. Try a chisel instead of your screwdriver
@@ScannerDanner I’ll try that. Any idea why it doesn’t trigger when I take the two mounting bolts out and rotate the sensor body around the trigger wheel? Eg cam shaft sensor normally stationary relative to chassis and trigger wheel rotating about axis of camshaft, this case trigger wheel stationary and cam sensor rotating about axis of camshaft.
Way out in left field. 18 wheeler abs sensor, do you think it works the same? sensor/notched wheel reading system?
Nice call Mr. Danner. Super "Cheap" after market parts. Not saving anyone a penny! Only good for calling into question the Mechanics competency. Just had a wheel speed sensor within a Hub fail on me after 10,000 Kms (6000 Miles) what a joke. Warranty ? whats the point? they only hand you the same part that will fail again day after tomorrow! Still subscribing to your "Premium Channel". Don't comment much these days but I am still there! Worth every Nickel.
Thanks so much for helping me make both this channel and my premium channel possible! I am grateful for you guys so much.
Hi! Scanner Dan, I love your video. I have a question ( I am working on a 2006 Kia Sorento LX 3.5 V6 engine and yes it is a rear wheel drive. I have replaced both crank, and Camshaft Position ,at the same time, along with the timing belt, and I am getting a PO-343 code, and I thought that I got a bad Camshaft Position senor,so I replaced it again, and I am still getting the same code with the one that I just replaced. I have also checked all my wires from the starter, and everything else that it's telling me on the Internet to look for. I have also ordered a nother one from a different company, and I have also tried the voltage test, but I don't know how to check the ohms,on the one that is on the truck should be,or how to see what the new Camshaft Position senor should be off the truck. I hooked my multimeter up on the truck yesterday 4/1/23! I was getting, 0.71 ohms from the one that was on the truck, and 1.60 to 1.63,4 ohms from the new parts off the truck. I wish that I had one of those tablets type scanners like you have, but I only have a hand held one. So I very much would appreciate your help, and any assistance you can give me in this matter. Thank you very much!😊
Resistance testing a hall effect sensor is useless. Voltage readings is the way to go.
Thanks what very helpful I had same issue but issue with wiring cuse the issue want know why type of tool scanner should be using also I have DRG file from PCM how to read the file what type of program to change values
What scanner do you recommend buying as we are a new Jeep shop getting started and want to troubleshoot this exact issue along with faulty wheel speed sensor issues and everything else on the 07 to current Jeep JK and Jeep JLs.
Paul
Could you use pull down method with 2 wires sensor which is inductive sensor sin wave to firing ignition coils and injectors?
Got a question, I just got done doing a valve cover gasket on 2006 Porsche Cayenne Turbo and when I went to start the engine it threw a engine code P0349... Bank 2 cam shaft positioning sensor... I didn't have this code before. Now I took the sensor out and I see it has a light scratch on it. So I took the cover back off to see if I had broken something but nothing seems to be broken. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Thanks you so much, you have inspired me a lot, perhaps I will make a video here on UA-cam to send special thanks to you guys
I was reviewed this video, is exelente amigo scanner Danner. Dios te bendiga.
If I don`t have a labscope, Can I just use a voltmeter to test the reference? I have a 2006 jeep liberty 3.7l that i have to replace the Cam sensor about every 4-6 months. And I would like to try this test the next time i have trouble with it.
Amazing tutorial, thank you! I wonder who's paying for the extra labor time, part supplier or part manufacturer? (Diagnose Dan went through this dilemma a few days ago with a bad Brand new wheel speed sensor)
Argeny: good point. See my comments about that in DD video.
I'm not sure but i do know some parts suppliers you can file a labor claim?
Nice diagnosing as always.. one question. My vehicle is not starting and when i do the metal test the volts don't drop until the metal touches the sensor. Is that how its supposed to be? P0203,p0202,p204,p0201 are the codes on the scanner
Those are injector codes right? I'm not a walking library.
@@ScannerDanner yes they are
@@ScannerDanner i tried the link to your book but it looks like its expired
@@rx7fanrx8owner64 email me at support@scannerdanner.com
We had a platform change. I can recover it for you. Thanks!
Focus on those injector codes for sure!
Great video my 08 jku keeps going into limp mode???? Any ideas?
How can you know for sure which view you are looking at the connector wiring? Another one we looked at in your class video it was from backprobing with connector plugged in. This one appears to be looking into the female connector??????
Snap-On will typically show you the harness side connector, plugged in, backprobing
Wonderful video. Could you say if there is a paid website that I can access all model of vehicle wiring diagram .....thanks
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here/3757-need-service-info-check-here.html
This guys the best because of the complete explanation thanks man
Thank you!
Dan are shops still slow to get lab scopes in the shop? I’m just getting into lab scope been wrenching for a long time however I just used it on a 05 GMC Colorado for a bad ignition bad sensor and air bag light lab scope directed me to broken wires in door jamb. I can’t imagine life without it now. What’s your thoughts on not enough shops being able to do diag and having to outsource etc.
For sure, and outsourcing is very common these days. But that's going to change too when these car start driving themselves. This field is in for a radical change.
Awesome- great video. Thanks. Like the info about the pull down circuitry !
p0201(open injector) I’ve already confirmed that there is no negative piles at the injector harness and tied into the wire itself to confirm that it’s not a bad connector. How would I go about tracing that wire back to the ecu so I can back probe. Thanks for all your videos, they really help out a lot. I thought about attending rose dale tech, probably should have lol
Wow this is the perfect mechanic teacher, great job thanks 👍
So, Paul... in this situation, assuming the sensor was good,would it be completely ridiculous to run a new sensor signal wire and sensor ground straight back to the ECU instead of trying to find the open somewhere?
Never! Why? Because where you find one open (damaged wire) you almost always find more!
@@ScannerDanner got it, Thanks! - If I don't get this fixed soon, I may have a case study for you-lol
I have the code P0340 on my Seadoo. It runs fine, and there seems to be no performance lost. Is there anything I should be worried about? Will it destroy my engine?
It can affect timing and fuel, so I wouldn't continue to run it that way. But will it damage it? Probably not