I replaced plastic wheelsets for metal ones for over 100 pieces of HO scale rolling stock. I also cut off all the talgo truck couplers and body mounted Kaydee couplers to all rolling stock. I changed out all incandescent lighting to LED lighting (either strip LED's for coaches and cabooses and single LED's for engines and back up lights). While I was at it, I weathered each piece of rolling stock. Took me several months and $400.00 for metal wheel sets and Kaydee couplers. Cheers from eastern TN
What I like about metal wheels is that they add weight to a wagon increasing their moment of inertia, without increasing bearing friction that comes from the weight of the wagon resting on the wheels.
Same. I've been replacing some older tankers with "Bettendorf " bogeys/trucks and couplings from micro trains, but some don't look right. Now I know why! I also don't like the plastic wheels. It's irritating that the expensive micro trains sets don't already have metal wheels.
Good video with good tips. I use graphite powder in every gear box for perfect coupling and magnetic uncoupling. I also use in on the wheel bearing pins reduce drag on the car. Its one of the best performance upgrades
I'm going to have to try out the graphite powder. I'm new to N scale, and found out that the MT and the Atlas couplers are inconsistent with each other, random uncouplings and sometimes don't want to couple together. Hopefully a puff of powder into the boxes will do the trick.
wheelsets are the first things i change with newly acquired RS. Kadee#5's..Then check the weight 1/2 oz. per inch length i believe (HO scale). Era of truck is something i never paid attention to, learn something new everyday...thank you!!
Ron..this was a very informative video.. I've never bought the metal wheel sets seeing that all my upgrades have been microtrains pre packaged with long/short/med off set couplers..they all have the plastic wheel sets and for the first time I've come to understand the 33"..36" measurement when ordering metal wheel sets.. thank you for this really good info. Tom
I simplify the process, cage out wheel sets, cut off the trip pin and wiegt my cars .50 ozs. heaven than the NMRA standard, they track better and being heaven isn't an issue with pulling power. Thanks for the video it was informative.
I would’ve watched the long video, your videos are great! Btw I think metal wheel sets just plain old look better. Right after the blooper, where the coupler fell apart while you were bending the pin, you should have the classic “pow” splat screen like in the old Batman series lol.
Ron, a word about plastic wheels. Back in the day when LP records were made they were stamped out from a mold. The vinyl itself had some degree of adhesion, so before each pressing a release agent was sprayed into the mold. Audiophiles clean brand new records because the release agent caused several problems. I wonder if new plastic wheels don't also have this problem. The only way to find out is to take a new car with plastic wheels, clean the wheels thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, and run it on the track for a while. I would try this for you, but I'm still in the planning stage, hence no pike. Thanks for all your hard work.
Thanks for saving me the trouble of calling you out Batman - I have been looking for the scratch sound for some time, by the way. I also want the tink tink eye blink sound used in old cartoons. Like Tom and Jerry and Bugs Bunny.
Yes, you can't get that sound on UA-cam. I found a website where I can download it for free. When I'm back at my computer tomorrow I will send you a link.
...and I knew you would, call me out that is. The first edit of everything together was 47 minutes long. I had nightmares of the names you would call me. LOL.
All but 2 pieces of my rolling stock are second hand. Just swapped the couplers on some rolling stock while watching this. The horn hook was replaced by a knuckle coupler. I have a diesel testing it now. Several loops and so far so good. Gave it metal wheels last night.just took the coupler from unused rolling stock. It didnt fit the current layout theme anyway.
The dirt buildup on plastic wheel sets is due to static electricity. The plastic, being non-conductive, creates minute amounts of static as it spins in the plastic truck. The dirt, being non-conductive, is attracted to the wheels. I've had to clean dirt buildup so thick that it almost matched the pizza cutter flanges of the MicroTrains wheels. Metal wheel, being conductive, eliminate the static issue by their contact to the metal rails, eliminating the dirt problem. Since converting all of my N Scale rolling stock to metal wheel sets, I haven't had to clean any wheels. The expense was well worth the outcome.
Nice info Ron. As for the weight of cars, if you didn't see my post on Eric's video, here it is The RP-20.1 NMRA is totally OBSOLETE. Since 1990, a lot as change, cars are build better, but mostly people build there layouts much better, for example, lots of people use much larger radius. Another example is if you're running smaller number of freight cars for delivery. Basically what I'm saying is it depends on your layout and how you run trains. I personally will have weights between 105 grams (empty) and 400 grams (loaded) (3.7 ounces and max of 14.1 ounces) for HO. A lot of factors should determine the weight of your cars. If you are running tight radius, than your cars shouldn't vary to much in weight, same applies if you are pulling lots of cars and especially if there is a mix in weights, for example, 3 light cars , 2 heavy, 2 light, 6 heavy, 3 light, etc. On half of my fleet, I will be removing a bit of weight for empties and adding a bit of weight to others and the other half, I will be adding weight for full loads. I've build a WORKING weigh station on my layout and weighing cars will be part of my operations. The RP-20.1 should be totally revised.
Hi Lloyd. Thanks for your comment. I agree with you that on larger and very well built layouts the weight issue is less important. However, there are still a lot of people out there building small layouts with tight radius curves and using less expensive Rolling Stock. The fact is a heavier car will track better regardless. It may have less other issues that will cause derailments on a larger or Better Built layout, but I'm trying to help everyone including those whose standards may not be quite as high. Thanks again for your comment.
I watched this earlier and greatly appreciate the info. Please comment on metal vs plastic axles. Also, the wheel sets I find appear to have pointed ends of axles rather than roller bearing trucks. Am I missing them? Thanks!! Seymour
Great video Ron. I had a vendor simplify wheel diameter to this, 36" was for passenger cars and 33" was for freight. Your explanation makes much more sense. Question for you, have you ever taken a file to a metal wheel to try and replicate the thump, thump, thump of a prototypical wheel? Sounds crazy I know, but as a novelty car feature, it might be worth a try.
Well done, Ron. This one should boost your subs. Good service to the community, N or HO Even for old timers a good refresher is a good thing to watch, very informative, well detailed, thanks! 3 thumbs done from who? Why? I could add 3 thumbs up if possible....:)
Thanks Dwight. That's what I want to know??? I uploaded a new channel trailer this week, a minute-and-a-half, short, informative, and got six thumbs down for it. I'm going to stop talking about it now... Thanks so much for watching.
Ron, any chance you might do a video on the dreaded "slinky" effect of a train and how to minimize it? I'm also looking for bullet proof hands free uncoupling of N scale rolling stock. Thanks, really enjoy your channel.
The slinky effect is addressed by taking care of two issues, three rolling Wheel sets and proper weight or slightly overweight cars. The slinky happens when either the Wheel sets art freewheeling enough and inertia builds up in the bearings or the cars in the back or two like to keep the train stretched or both. As far as hands-free uncoupling is concerned, I don't even try to do that. I uncouple my cars with bamboo skewers.
another reason to upgrade to metal is Atlas trucks and Bachmann trucks are bad on insulfrog turnouts. Every time you have an Atlas or Bachmann locomotive or car go through a turnout it can derail and you can get a short also you can stall the solution is change the wheels to metal that way you go through the turnout without stopping.
THANKS RON, you are right I recently started changing wheels to metal ones I have always thought it didn't matter but as Mike Fifer says I've come over to the dark side, they do run better as once weathered look better too. I was wondering what size the pliers are as I can't seem to find them in the stores. Looking forward to seeing how you mount couples on the body of cars as I've never been any good at it....thanks for sharing....Jack 😁
Hey Ron. John Abatacola over at TSG Multimedia channel has a smartphone app that will calculate train car weight. You might want to check it out. Great video. Russ
When you buy cars at the hobby shop make sure you read the trucks before you buy them an attach them to your cars. If you car is modern you need Barber or Temkin trucks but if your cars are from before WWII you need Bettendorf or Arch Bar.
Where's the blooper reel for when the coupler fell off? I have heard that is the worst part about adjusting the trip pin. I can feel for you though, I just had a coupler box come off when my cheap old locomotive got banged around in the case.
That was one of several potential bloopers from filming this. There was also the blooper when my wife called in the middle middle of one of those video segments and I answered the phone and had a conversation with her having forgotten to turn off the camera or the audio recording. And there were some others as well. Life as a UA-camr.
I purchased a pack of Fox Valley 33" axles. I took 6 out to use in a passenger car and all 6 were not in gauge. For the price we pay for them, I think that's pretty poor. I checked them on the standards gauge. Also, the packet I bought said they were for ATL, IRC.... Yet they wouldn't fit in the atlas heavy weight passenger cars. After some investigation, I found that the cars were made by rivarossi for atlas. Just be aware that some brands make stuff for other brands
I don't think I've ever had a problem with Fox Valley wheelsets being out of gauge myself, although I have with other brands a few times. Ask for axle length, yes Atlas uses a number of different axle lengths. I mentioned that in the video. It is annoying, but you have to measure the axles you take out to make sure you get the right size.
Hi Ron, I'm just getting started here so I have no rolling stock yet. This is a great tutorial but it begs the question - There's an initial purchase and an upgrade cost to the Atlas car in your example. Would it be possible to simply buy rolling stock from another maker with metal wheels and body mounted couplers for the same or even lower cost?
In case anyone is interested, in the old days, when those journal boxes were the only game in town, they would occasionally overheat, a condition which was known as a "hot box".
Hey Ron, great video, just wondering about the MicroTrains gauge and the trip pin height. My gauge came with a flat piece of metal you lay across the tracks to see what the minimum height for the trip pin should be. The instructions say the slanted side of the gauge is the Car Underbody Height gauge. You're supposed to file that from the bottom side to make a sharp edge for scoring your cars? Do you ever do this?
Ron, I see this is 2 years old. What I am looking for is when I am replacing couplers and wheels is the flange where the truck sits down is to big. Is there a safe way to open up the truck to fit around the flange, like a reamer? Or will a drill bit work or get a round jewelry file and use it? The other question is what is the best coupler? I have been replacing all the old style couplers of the 70's that are like square notched which break so easy, I guess old age. I have been buying the Micro Trains couplers and truck sets but they are all plastic wheels. But I have had some of their couplers not work on their different size or lengths couplers.
Micro Trains couplers and trucks are the best in N scale, but compatibility can be an issue until you get all your cars upgraded. As for your reaming issue, I would say a round file would be your best bet.
Thanks Ron ! Leaned a lot ! Really enjoyed watching and enjoy all your videos 😊 can’t wait to get a set up going someday but I’m gonna keep on watching and learning before I start .... I had a ho scale I got for Christmas when I was 5 back in 1975 then I had an N layout in the early 90’s but it was a disaster because I didn’t take my time and I rushed it ... anyway that’s a long time ago and I’ve leaned to have patience and for that I am thankful so I m gonna keep watching your videos and learning as much as I can before I even begin to think about what kind of layout I want. Anyway thanks again and take care! Peace from Welland Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
Ron, want to install the best coupler possible on rolling stock and locos in N scale. What would you recommend? Also what metal wheel sets do you recommend?
Great videos, Would it be possible you might add a link to where to shop for the railroading tools(track gauges etc) you use/show in your videos.I am still a newbie so don't have all the arsenal yet. Thanks
Hi, Jamie. That is a good topic. I will confess it is not my strongest suit those tiny Electronics, but I am working to improve my own skills in that area. A video on installing ditch lights maybe in the not-too-distant future. Thanks.
Here's a question - My stuff is almost all as old as I am, Minitrix and Atlas mostly... is there anything about their being "vintage" that would be frowned upon in upgrading them? It's not that it matters THAT much, as they were my grandfather's and I'm never selling them, but I'm just curious. Also have a bunch of Model Power and Bachmann stuff I bought in my teens... those I'm not afraid of messing with.
No, I don't think there would be anything that would be frowned upon there. It's not like you are talking about vintage pre-war Lionel stuff that could be worth thousands of dollars in original condition. Upgrades on what you're talking about would make them run better and wouldn't hurt the value at all.
No, Unless it is lionel. Most everything old in "N" scale s round file quality. I have people trying to give my the old Bachmann, Aurora Postage Stamps and Minitrix, I feel bad, but thanks, but no thanks. If someone ever tries to give or sell you a High Speed N scale train just drop it in the trash can.
IMPROO.com, I have a Highspeed stockcar that was given to me, the shell looks pretty good but the cast metal underbody has integral hollow bolster pins that are hammered like a rivet after the truck is applied and was so tight that the trucks could not turn. I broke the trucks off and filed the pins off flush to the bolster. That is as far as I have gotten, I plan to drill the bolsters to accept pins and install MicroTrains trucks, I need to keep is since it was a present from one of my grandchildren.
33” or 36”? I run MTL 100 ton roller bearing trucks. My new Athearn Tankers have 36” wheels. I think everything else is 33” Harder to find 36” metals for MTL Trucks.
@@RonsTrainsNThings FVM is sold out like every well known Supply Shop online. But I found some at a place over East. Got a 12 PK to try. Also Harvested enough metal wheels, the right axle length for MT Trucks out of my stockpile of stripped trucks. I think they are 33” but going to test run them on a local. Enough to do at least 15 cars! 🙂
Thank you for that video. I am struggling with bending trip pins. I've got the MT gage and jeweler pliers. Do you bend the pin while it is still in the coupler?
I used to bend the pin while it was still in the coupler. It worked okay, but I found that those pins would cause derailments one way or another. I now just snip the darn things off. It's a rare thing to have a derailment now.
Dumb question likely, but when you talk about 100 ton trucks, does that refer to the weight of the truck itself? Or is that an indication of the weight it can support?
Thank you Batman!!! Lol. Ron another awesome video. You must of bin reading my mind. I bin wanting to find out what size wheel I need to get for my concor passenger cars. I totally agree with what you said about the Steele wheels keeping your track cleaner. Thank you for the informative video👍👍👍
I'm not as big a expert on passenger cars, but I believe Passenger cars almost always take 36 inch wheels. Passenger cars tend to be heavier than Freight cars just in general.
I WAS GIVEN 1960'S N SCALE CARS WHICH ALL HAVE METAL WEELS , BUT TO UPGRADE THE ROLLING STOCK I BOUGHT MT BETLENDORF TRUCKS AND LONG COUPLER . THE COUPLER IS LONG BECAUSE OF HELX IS MORE THEN 19 DEG'S. I EXCHANGE PLASIC WEELS FOR THE STEEL WEELS THAT WAS ON THE OLD CARS.
When buying them that says so on the package, but when you see them on the trucks and you get used to what each one looks like the difference is definitely clear.
Metal wheelsets alsoattract gunk. BUT I still prefer them to plastic because they add low center-of-gravity weight to the car, and I also love the sound. Plus, metal wheelsets are prototypical, because prototype trains don't use plastic wheels :)
In N scale they hold up pretty well. They are large and tough enough to hold up to what wear and tear you have with the small-scale. Larger scales like ho have more problems. The shanks on couplers that are made of plastic can tend to break with time. That's why ho and larger scales tend to prefer all metal couplers.
As an outsider to model trains, this stuff is interesting. I never had any idea how involved all of this is. It's great to see your channel growing. All very well deserved.
couplers 1015 easier 2 assm if u leave parts on sprue install trip pin then cut off bottom half then hook it onto pin From dave the body mounting maniac
Good Morning! I am new to the hobby (n scale) and have been buying lots of used cars from ebay. As a result, most of my cars have trucks and couplers that don't match up. Can you guy's recommend a good standard for me to use since I will have to replace all of them so they match. If you factor in price as a factor, what is a good set of trucks and wheel sets to use across the board and where can I find them? I do want something of some quality, but as I am building my inventory, price is something I have to consider. I can get the top of the line stuff in a few years. What truck and metal wheel set/coupler combinations should I get and where should I order them from? I appreciate any responses . Thanks.
In N scale the industry standard for couplers and trucks are Micro-Trains (MTL). I would recommend them hands down above everything else. They will come with plastic wheels. Metal wheel sets is a separeate upgrade in N scale. Personally I use Fox Valley metal wheels and love them, but there are others out there that I'm sure are equal in quality. The catch is that axle lengthe vary, so you will need a caliper to measure the axle length to make sure you order the right ones. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
My grandfather had a 1968 Ford F100, best truck he says he ever had. My neighbor has a 69 F100 with headers and glasspacks, some of my favorite memories are from when I was about 3 years old and the neighbor lady often ran late to work... So she would fly about 60mph down our 25mph street, and it sounded like NASCAR!!! And the bonus was my mom would come unglued everytime! Hahaha, now I'm 21 and I have a glasspack just because my crazy neighbor lol. I gotta order a N scale 68 Ford pickup from shapeways to pay homage to my grandpa and neighbor.
I certainly understand that when you have a lot of people running a lot of Rolling Stock from different people. You don't want Rolling Stock on the layout that's going to cause problems with derailment, uncoupling, Etc. On the other hand, a standards officer begins to sound an awful lot like a job. Not so sure about that one. LOL.
My thumbs down isn't for the video, but for the not-scale, "Scale" trains. I have an "N Scale" layout. The word "Scale" is simply a lie. This size is no more scale than I am. If it were scale, then all the couplers would be identical. They are not. Every truck and its axels would be identical. They are not. You want to make all of your couplers work with each other? You can't. You need to know who made your car and what you need to know on how to make it work. Wanna change to metal wheels? You can't. Every maker of rolling stock uses different lengths of axels even within manufacturers like Atlas. A hobby needs to be relaxing, not frustrating. "The Upgrade Model Railroad Rolling Stock" below is a prime example of mis engineered, proprietary components, and tossing out compatibility. Imagine MTH, Lionel, MDK, and K Line producing rolling stock in O gauge that would not hook up to anybody elses rolling stock but their own? Now you have a sense of what its like in the N so called "Scale" scale. Why this size is the second most popular scale behind Ho is beyond me.
I replaced plastic wheelsets for metal ones for over 100 pieces of HO scale rolling stock. I also cut off all the talgo truck couplers and body mounted Kaydee couplers to all rolling stock. I changed out all incandescent lighting to LED lighting (either strip LED's for coaches and cabooses and single LED's for engines and back up lights). While I was at it, I weathered each piece of rolling stock. Took me several months and $400.00 for metal wheel sets and Kaydee couplers. Cheers from eastern TN
What I like about metal wheels is that they add weight to a wagon increasing their moment of inertia, without increasing bearing friction that comes from the weight of the wagon resting on the wheels.
Great video Ron. Thanks for explaining about wheel set sizes of 28, 33, 36. Looking forward to watching your video on couplers.
Thanks for watching.
Same. I've been replacing some older tankers with "Bettendorf " bogeys/trucks and couplings from micro trains, but some don't look right. Now I know why!
I also don't like the plastic wheels. It's irritating that the expensive micro trains sets don't already have metal wheels.
Good video with good tips. I use graphite powder in every gear box for perfect coupling and magnetic uncoupling. I also use in on the wheel bearing pins reduce drag on the car. Its one of the best performance upgrades
Good stuff
I'm going to have to try out the graphite powder. I'm new to N scale, and found out that the MT and the Atlas couplers are inconsistent with each other, random uncouplings and sometimes don't want to couple together. Hopefully a puff of powder into the boxes will do the trick.
wheelsets are the first things i change with newly acquired RS. Kadee#5's..Then check the weight 1/2 oz. per inch length i believe (HO scale). Era of truck is something i never paid attention to, learn something new everyday...thank you!!
Ron..this was a very informative video.. I've never bought the metal wheel sets seeing that all my upgrades have been microtrains pre packaged with long/short/med off set couplers..they all have the plastic wheel sets and for the first time I've come to understand the 33"..36" measurement when ordering metal wheel sets.. thank you for this really good info. Tom
You bet. Thanks for watching.
I simplify the process, cage out wheel sets, cut off the trip pin and wiegt my cars .50 ozs. heaven than the NMRA standard, they track better and being heaven isn't an issue with pulling power.
Thanks for the video it was informative.
Same for me, William......
That works. 👍
Another enlightening and entertaining episode, I always look forward to Tuesdays. Thanks Ron!
Thanks. 👍
7:11 that axle said, “I’m done with this, let me get out of here”
🤣🤣🤣
Micro-Trains trucks, BLMA metal wheels, and cut the trip pin off, tap and use a metal screw for the kingpin and of course NMRA weight.
I would’ve watched the long video, your videos are great! Btw I think metal wheel sets just plain old look better.
Right after the blooper, where the coupler fell apart while you were bending the pin, you should have the classic “pow” splat screen like in the old Batman series lol.
Lol, that would have been awesome.
Ron, a word about plastic wheels. Back in the day when LP records were made they were stamped out from a mold. The vinyl itself had some degree of adhesion, so before each pressing a release agent was sprayed into the mold. Audiophiles clean brand new records because the release agent caused several problems.
I wonder if new plastic wheels don't also have this problem. The only way to find out is to take a new car with plastic wheels, clean the wheels thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, and run it on the track for a while. I would try this for you, but I'm still in the planning stage, hence no pike.
Thanks for all your hard work.
Thanks great info,don’t have a gauge,can you tell me what number ,brand to swap out n scale micro scale truck couplers ,new ones
He's BATMAN........Well I'll be darned !! Good video.
Excellent video as always Ron. I continue to look forward to tall the videos. Please keep up the good work.
Peace be with you
Thanks for saving me the trouble of calling you out Batman - I have been looking for the scratch sound for some time, by the way. I also want the tink tink eye blink sound used in old cartoons. Like Tom and Jerry and Bugs Bunny.
Yes, you can't get that sound on UA-cam. I found a website where I can download it for free. When I'm back at my computer tomorrow I will send you a link.
...and I knew you would, call me out that is. The first edit of everything together was 47 minutes long. I had nightmares of the names you would call me. LOL.
Thank you for your video on Wheels and trucks........I have been wondering for a while on how to do it right. Thank you very much.
All but 2 pieces of my rolling stock are second hand. Just swapped the couplers on some rolling stock while watching this. The horn hook was replaced by a knuckle coupler. I have a diesel testing it now. Several loops and so far so good. Gave it metal wheels last night.just took the coupler from unused rolling stock. It didnt fit the current layout theme anyway.
Another excellently produced video. Several good tips.
The dirt buildup on plastic wheel sets is due to static electricity. The plastic, being non-conductive, creates minute amounts of static as it spins in the plastic truck. The dirt, being non-conductive, is attracted to the wheels. I've had to clean dirt buildup so thick that it almost matched the pizza cutter flanges of the MicroTrains wheels.
Metal wheel, being conductive, eliminate the static issue by their contact to the metal rails, eliminating the dirt problem.
Since converting all of my N Scale rolling stock to metal wheel sets, I haven't had to clean any wheels. The expense was well worth the outcome.
That covers it pretty well.
Nice info Ron. As for the weight of cars, if you didn't see my post on Eric's video, here it is
The RP-20.1 NMRA is totally OBSOLETE. Since 1990, a lot as change, cars are build better, but mostly people build there layouts much better, for example, lots of people use much larger radius. Another example is if you're running smaller number of freight cars for delivery. Basically what I'm saying is it depends on your layout and how you run trains. I personally will have weights between 105 grams (empty) and 400 grams (loaded) (3.7 ounces and max of 14.1 ounces) for HO.
A lot of factors should determine the weight of your cars. If you are running tight radius, than your cars shouldn't vary to much in weight, same applies if you are pulling lots of cars and especially if there is a mix in weights, for example, 3 light cars , 2 heavy, 2 light, 6 heavy, 3 light, etc.
On half of my fleet, I will be removing a bit of weight for empties and adding a bit of weight to others and the other half, I will be adding weight for full loads. I've build a WORKING weigh station on my layout and weighing cars will be part of my operations. The RP-20.1 should be totally revised.
Hi Lloyd. Thanks for your comment. I agree with you that on larger and very well built layouts the weight issue is less important. However, there are still a lot of people out there building small layouts with tight radius curves and using less expensive Rolling Stock. The fact is a heavier car will track better regardless. It may have less other issues that will cause derailments on a larger or Better Built layout, but I'm trying to help everyone including those whose standards may not be quite as high. Thanks again for your comment.
Hi Ron,just watched your video on laying down track.what make track are you using,and is code 55 or80. Regards Alan Toulcher
I am using Peco code 80, but if I was starting over today I would use Peco code 55.
I watched this earlier and greatly appreciate the info. Please comment on metal vs plastic axles. Also, the wheel sets I find appear to have pointed ends of axles rather than roller bearing trucks. Am I missing them? Thanks!! Seymour
hold trip pin on vertical axis and file end to be inserted to remove any burrs then insert
I've never had an issue with that.
Great video Ron. I had a vendor simplify wheel diameter to this, 36" was for passenger cars and 33" was for freight. Your explanation makes much more sense. Question for you, have you ever taken a file to a metal wheel to try and replicate the thump, thump, thump of a prototypical wheel? Sounds crazy I know, but as a novelty car feature, it might be worth a try.
I have not done that, but I don't think you will truly replicate that hard thump of a flat spot on the wheel.
I think he is right about the passenger cars, but not even close on freight cars.
Well done, Ron. This one should boost your subs. Good service to the community, N or HO Even for old timers a good refresher is a good thing to watch, very informative, well detailed, thanks! 3 thumbs done from who? Why? I could add 3 thumbs up if possible....:)
Thanks Dwight. That's what I want to know??? I uploaded a new channel trailer this week, a minute-and-a-half, short, informative, and got six thumbs down for it. I'm going to stop talking about it now... Thanks so much for watching.
New comment: Ron, how do you determine wheel size? ie., 33", 36"???? if you don't have the original package they came in???
Ron, any chance you might do a video on the dreaded "slinky" effect of a train and how to minimize it? I'm also looking for bullet proof hands free uncoupling of N scale rolling stock. Thanks, really enjoy your channel.
The slinky effect is addressed by taking care of two issues, three rolling Wheel sets and proper weight or slightly overweight cars. The slinky happens when either the Wheel sets art freewheeling enough and inertia builds up in the bearings or the cars in the back or two like to keep the train stretched or both. As far as hands-free uncoupling is concerned, I don't even try to do that. I uncouple my cars with bamboo skewers.
another reason to upgrade to metal is Atlas trucks and Bachmann trucks are bad on insulfrog turnouts. Every time you have an Atlas or Bachmann locomotive or car go through a turnout it can derail and you can get a short also you can stall the solution is change the wheels to metal that way you go through the turnout without stopping.
THANKS RON, you are right I recently started changing wheels to metal ones I have always thought it didn't matter but as Mike Fifer says I've come over to the dark side, they do run better as once weathered look better too. I was wondering what size the pliers are as I can't seem to find them in the stores. Looking forward to seeing how you mount couples on the body of cars as I've never been any good at it....thanks for sharing....Jack 😁
Do you mean the jewler's pliars?
Yes!
Here is a link. I should have put this in my pick of the week. I think I will add it now. amzn.to/2J1PI10
Ron's Trains N Things THANKS RON!😀
Very good as always my friend.
Thanks Kenny.
Hey Ron. John Abatacola over at TSG Multimedia channel has a smartphone app that will calculate train car weight. You might want to check it out. Great video. Russ
Thanks Russ. Will do.
I do that ron also i do wearthing trucks on my layout and couplers it is awesome my units same thing
When you buy cars at the hobby shop make sure you read the trucks before you buy them an attach them to your cars. If you car is modern you need Barber or Temkin trucks but if your cars are from before WWII you need Bettendorf or Arch Bar.
Where's the blooper reel for when the coupler fell off? I have heard that is the worst part about adjusting the trip pin. I can feel for you though, I just had a coupler box come off when my cheap old locomotive got banged around in the case.
Lol, noticed that did you?
That was one of several potential bloopers from filming this. There was also the blooper when my wife called in the middle middle of one of those video segments and I answered the phone and had a conversation with her having forgotten to turn off the camera or the audio recording. And there were some others as well. Life as a UA-camr.
I learned quite a bit. Thanks for sharing Batman. Na na nana na nana. Pow! :-) - Drew
Holy wheelset Batman...
LOL - I love the added entertainment. Your intros cracks me up. Keep it going.
They are fun for me too, and I like to add a little entertainment to it when I can.
great video Ron.. lots of useful info.. thanks for sharing.. vinny
Thanks, Vinny.
I purchased a pack of Fox Valley 33" axles. I took 6 out to use in a passenger car and all 6 were not in gauge. For the price we pay for them, I think that's pretty poor. I checked them on the standards gauge.
Also, the packet I bought said they were for ATL, IRC.... Yet they wouldn't fit in the atlas heavy weight passenger cars. After some investigation, I found that the cars were made by rivarossi for atlas.
Just be aware that some brands make stuff for other brands
I don't think I've ever had a problem with Fox Valley wheelsets being out of gauge myself, although I have with other brands a few times. Ask for axle length, yes Atlas uses a number of different axle lengths. I mentioned that in the video. It is annoying, but you have to measure the axles you take out to make sure you get the right size.
Hi Ron, I'm just getting started here so I have no rolling stock yet. This is a great tutorial but it begs the question - There's an initial purchase and an upgrade cost to the Atlas car in your example. Would it be possible to simply buy rolling stock from another maker with metal wheels and body mounted couplers for the same or even lower cost?
In short, no, I'm not aware that same or lower cost with metal wheels and body mount couplers exists.
In case anyone is interested, in the old days, when those journal boxes were the only game in town, they would occasionally overheat, a condition which was known as a "hot box".
Great job batman.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Thanks, Lance. 👍
Hey Ron, great video, just wondering about the MicroTrains gauge and the trip pin height. My gauge came with a flat piece of metal you lay across the tracks to see what the minimum height for the trip pin should be. The instructions say the slanted side of the gauge is the Car Underbody Height gauge. You're supposed to file that from the bottom side to make a sharp edge for scoring your cars? Do you ever do this?
Ron do you know if the nmra rolling stock weights chart is available in o gauge I can only find the chart in ho or n scale
www.nmra.org/beginner/weight
14:40 Dammit Ron! Time to replace the trucks! If I had a nickle for every time I did that!!
Ron, I see this is 2 years old. What I am looking for is when I am replacing couplers and wheels is the flange where the truck sits down is to big. Is there a safe way to open up the truck to fit around the flange, like a reamer? Or will a drill bit work or get a round jewelry file and use it?
The other question is what is the best coupler? I have been replacing all the old style couplers of the 70's that are like square notched which break so easy, I guess old age. I have been buying the Micro Trains couplers and truck sets but they are all plastic wheels. But I have had some of their couplers not work on their different size or lengths couplers.
Micro Trains couplers and trucks are the best in N scale, but compatibility can be an issue until you get all your cars upgraded. As for your reaming issue, I would say a round file would be your best bet.
Thanks Ron ! Leaned a lot ! Really enjoyed watching and enjoy all your videos 😊 can’t wait to get a set up going someday but I’m gonna keep on watching and learning before I start .... I had a ho scale I got for Christmas when I was 5 back in 1975 then I had an N layout in the early 90’s but it was a disaster because I didn’t take my time and I rushed it ... anyway that’s a long time ago and I’ve leaned to have patience and for that I am thankful so I m gonna keep watching your videos and learning as much as I can before I even begin to think about what kind of layout I want.
Anyway thanks again and take care! Peace from Welland Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
Thanks so much for watching.
Very informative thanks
Ron, want to install the best coupler possible on rolling stock and locos in N scale. What would you recommend? Also what metal wheel sets do you recommend?
Awesome information, I definitely learned a lot form this video.
Thanks, Joe.
What about body mounted couplers?
Right here: ua-cam.com/video/-u0SlQmoQJM/v-deo.html
Great videos,
Would it be possible you might add a link to where to shop for the railroading tools(track gauges etc) you use/show in your videos.I am still a newbie so don't have all the arsenal yet.
Thanks
I have a 40’ Southern Pacific micro trains Hy Cube boxcar that I love, but it rides a bit too high. WHAT CAN I DO??
Is the bolster sitting down in the recess in the truck? If so, you may have to sand a bit off the bottom of the bolster where the truck attaches.
Ron's Trains N Things YOU’RE A GENIUS, I’m gonna get right on that!
How would you add working ditch lights to your loco’s??
Hi, Jamie. That is a good topic. I will confess it is not my strongest suit those tiny Electronics, but I am working to improve my own skills in that area. A video on installing ditch lights maybe in the not-too-distant future. Thanks.
Here's a question - My stuff is almost all as old as I am, Minitrix and Atlas mostly... is there anything about their being "vintage" that would be frowned upon in upgrading them? It's not that it matters THAT much, as they were my grandfather's and I'm never selling them, but I'm just curious. Also have a bunch of Model Power and Bachmann stuff I bought in my teens... those I'm not afraid of messing with.
No, I don't think there would be anything that would be frowned upon there. It's not like you are talking about vintage pre-war Lionel stuff that could be worth thousands of dollars in original condition. Upgrades on what you're talking about would make them run better and wouldn't hurt the value at all.
No, Unless it is lionel. Most everything old in "N" scale s round file quality. I have people trying to give my the old Bachmann, Aurora Postage Stamps and Minitrix, I feel bad, but thanks, but no thanks. If someone ever tries to give or sell you a High Speed N scale train just drop it in the trash can.
IMPROO.com, I have a Highspeed stockcar that was given to me, the shell looks pretty good but the cast metal underbody has integral hollow bolster pins that are hammered like a rivet after the truck is applied and was so tight that the trucks could not turn. I broke the trucks off and filed the pins off flush to the bolster. That is as far as I have gotten, I plan to drill the bolsters to accept pins and install MicroTrains trucks, I need to keep is since it was a present from one of my grandchildren.
I would like to light my pass. cars..I have N scale Silverton and Durango set
That would be a good subject for a video. I think I'm going to add that to my list. Thanks.
33” or 36”? I run MTL 100 ton roller bearing trucks.
My new Athearn Tankers have 36” wheels.
I think everything else is 33”
Harder to find 36” metals for MTL Trucks.
100 ton trucks should have 36" wheels. You can get them through Fox Valley.
@@RonsTrainsNThings
FVM is sold out like every well known Supply Shop online. But I found some at a place over East. Got a 12 PK to try.
Also Harvested enough metal wheels, the right axle length for MT Trucks out of my stockpile of stripped trucks. I think they are 33” but going to test run them on a local. Enough to do at least 15 cars! 🙂
Ron, another great video! Thanks for the information. I was wondering, do you have a problem with "Slinky bounce" from the Micro-Trains couplers?
Thank you for that video. I am struggling with bending trip pins. I've got the MT gage and jeweler pliers. Do you bend the pin while it is still in the coupler?
I used to bend the pin while it was still in the coupler. It worked okay, but I found that those pins would cause derailments one way or another. I now just snip the darn things off. It's a rare thing to have a derailment now.
Dumb question likely, but when you talk about 100 ton trucks, does that refer to the weight of the truck itself? Or is that an indication of the weight it can support?
That is the rating of the load it can bear.
Thank you Batman!!! Lol. Ron another awesome video. You must of bin reading my mind. I bin wanting to find out what size wheel I need to get for my concor passenger cars. I totally agree with what you said about the Steele wheels keeping your track cleaner. Thank you for the informative video👍👍👍
I'm not as big a expert on passenger cars, but I believe Passenger cars almost always take 36 inch wheels. Passenger cars tend to be heavier than Freight cars just in general.
xuron cutters much safer to use 4 removing talgo mounted coupler
That would work well, but I don't see how it is "safer."
You mention testing the height of the coupler but not how to make it right if too low or high.
Where did you find the n scale truck tuner?
I do not have nor have I ever seen an N scale truck tuner, only HO scale. You can bet if I ever do find one I will buy it on the spot.
I WAS GIVEN 1960'S N SCALE CARS WHICH ALL HAVE METAL WEELS , BUT TO UPGRADE THE ROLLING STOCK I BOUGHT MT BETLENDORF TRUCKS AND LONG COUPLER . THE COUPLER IS LONG BECAUSE OF HELX IS MORE THEN 19 DEG'S. I EXCHANGE PLASIC WEELS FOR THE STEEL WEELS THAT WAS ON THE OLD CARS.
How can you tell the size of the wheels when you are because one says 33 and one says 35
When buying them that says so on the package, but when you see them on the trucks and you get used to what each one looks like the difference is definitely clear.
Metal wheelsets alsoattract gunk. BUT I still prefer them to plastic because they add low center-of-gravity weight to the car, and I also love the sound. Plus, metal wheelsets are prototypical, because prototype trains don't use plastic wheels :)
Lol, that is true.
You know Batman? 😮 I can't believe how tiny those wheels are. I'm curious about the wear and tear on the plastic coupling/truck part.
In N scale they hold up pretty well. They are large and tough enough to hold up to what wear and tear you have with the small-scale. Larger scales like ho have more problems. The shanks on couplers that are made of plastic can tend to break with time. That's why ho and larger scales tend to prefer all metal couplers.
As an outsider to model trains, this stuff is interesting. I never had any idea how involved all of this is. It's great to see your channel growing. All very well deserved.
Good info
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couplers 1015 easier 2 assm if u leave parts on sprue install trip pin then cut off bottom half then hook it onto pin From dave the body mounting maniac
Good idea.
You answered my question thank you
Glad to hear.
Good Morning! I am new to the hobby (n scale) and have been buying lots of used cars from ebay. As a result, most of my cars have trucks and couplers that don't match up. Can you guy's recommend a good standard for me to use since I will have to replace all of them so they match. If you factor in price as a factor, what is a good set of trucks and wheel sets to use across the board and where can I find them? I do want something of some quality, but as I am building my inventory, price is something I have to consider. I can get the top of the line stuff in a few years. What truck and metal wheel set/coupler combinations should I get and where should I order them from? I appreciate any responses . Thanks.
In N scale the industry standard for couplers and trucks are Micro-Trains (MTL). I would recommend them hands down above everything else. They will come with plastic wheels. Metal wheel sets is a separeate upgrade in N scale. Personally I use Fox Valley metal wheels and love them, but there are others out there that I'm sure are equal in quality. The catch is that axle lengthe vary, so you will need a caliper to measure the axle length to make sure you order the right ones. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I'm a fan of the 66-67 Ford Truck, But not my era.
My grandfather had a 1968 Ford F100, best truck he says he ever had. My neighbor has a 69 F100 with headers and glasspacks, some of my favorite memories are from when I was about 3 years old and the neighbor lady often ran late to work... So she would fly about 60mph down our 25mph street, and it sounded like NASCAR!!! And the bonus was my mom would come unglued everytime! Hahaha, now I'm 21 and I have a glasspack just because my crazy neighbor lol. I gotta order a N scale 68 Ford pickup from shapeways to pay homage to my grandpa and neighbor.
Fun story. Thanks for sharing.
14:38 What???????
Bend the trip pin...and hope the coupler doesn't come apart.
Ron's Trains N Things wait for blooper reel and choice words.
the club that i belonged to you had to keep your rolling up to standard or you could not put it on the lay-out, we had a standards officer.
I certainly understand that when you have a lot of people running a lot of Rolling Stock from different people. You don't want Rolling Stock on the layout that's going to cause problems with derailment, uncoupling, Etc. On the other hand, a standards officer begins to sound an awful lot like a job. Not so sure about that one. LOL.
check your video watch that #11 blade bend
kind of made me cringe
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My thumbs down isn't for the video, but for the not-scale, "Scale" trains. I have an "N Scale" layout. The word "Scale" is simply a lie. This size is no more scale than I am. If it were scale, then all the couplers would be identical. They are not. Every truck and its axels would be identical. They are not. You want to make all of your couplers work with each other? You can't. You need to know who made your car and what you need to know on how to make it work. Wanna change to metal wheels? You can't. Every maker of rolling stock uses different lengths of axels even within manufacturers like Atlas. A hobby needs to be relaxing, not frustrating. "The Upgrade Model Railroad Rolling Stock" below is a prime example of mis engineered, proprietary components, and tossing out compatibility. Imagine MTH, Lionel, MDK, and K Line producing rolling stock in O gauge that would not hook up to anybody elses rolling stock but their own? Now you have a sense of what its like in the N so called "Scale" scale. Why this size is the second most popular scale behind Ho is beyond me.