Ron, your descriptions of the upgrades was very helpful. Because you're so experienced, and I'm rather new at this, I'll play them over a number of times to make my changes. Thanks for the encouragment and "positive push" to make my changes of my used locos!! - Dean from cold Minnesota.
really nice job on the detail Ron. In the past when I custom painted a loco..the handrails were too close for comfort and my nerves to not get paint where I didn't want it. I found that I was able to cut strips of computer paper and slide them between the handrails and the loco body. Sliding the paper out also gave me the bonus of getting paint on the rear part of the handrail as I slid it out. Looking forward to the DCC additions to these locos. Tom
Great job Ron, I have 10 locomotives which I have to do the handrails and couplers to so the time is perfect, I am also really looking forward to seeing you install the DCC decoders as that is needed as well.
Thanks, Gregg. I'm glad you found it useful. I look forward to the DCC installs too. I actually may make them 3 separate videos depending on how long they get.
@@RonsTrainsNThings 3 Video' s brillant. Now I need some advice please. Many, many years ago I modelled in "0" gauge, and long before D.C.C. I purchased a very expensive D.C. control panel with all the bells and whistles. It must have been used for 15 minutes at the most. Got it out of the box to test.It will run 4 "N" gauge loco's + a D.P.U. as smooth as silk. Loco's aren't fighting each other no speed matching, just put them on the layout and run. The control panel has a side panel to control a pair of loco's shunting a yard. I don't need walk around control the layout room is only 12' x 10' ft. The loco's I tested were 2 Kato, 2 Fox Valley I Micro Trains. What do you think ? I'm tempted to stick with what I've got. I've always wanted a big control panel anyway. Any thoughts would be greatly received, Thank you. Cheers, Chris Perry.
The one thing I would check is the voltage output of the pannel. Being designed for O scale, you may be pumping a lot of voltage into those N scale locomotives. If so you could run the risk of burning out motors prematurely. If the voltage output is aroudn 12V you should be golden.
@@RonsTrainsNThings This control panel was regarded as the Roll's Royce of panel's. The panels were hand built to order by a private individual, long since called above to build panels for that great model railway in the sky. It has12 volt controlled D.C., 12 volt uncontrolled,D.C., 16 volt A.C., 24 volt A.C. It has varibale braking slide control. varible momentum slide control. This main panel has a cab"A" and Cab" B" in one unit. The slave plugs into the side of the main panel. It has a neat trick. Set a train running on the main line with the varible momentum, throw a double pole double throw switch train keeps running but you can run another train just by using the normal rotary knob. The panel was designed to run everything from old Pitman motors right up to milliamp Swiss motors. Apart from the mountain of wiring needed for a D.C. system, I'm tempted. Otherwise I'll purchase an N.E.C. system. But if I don't have to purchase D.C.C. I've got more money to buy rolling stock. Cheers, Chris Perry.
I would second what Mike said. The RC car paint will not flake off. I paint the hand rails on the sprue and let it dry first. Then snip the rail off and install it. That way there's little to no chance of getting paint on the shell. ;) @@RonsTrainsNThings
For Kato, I’ve also been able to find the specific parts by going to the models page itself (gs4, f3a, etc) when using the mobile version of the site (iPad /iPhone )
I like to paint that copper color trip pin on the MT couplers some shade of black. As I think that as made color detract from the model. And that the darkened line looks more realistic. I have many more to do on my layout but the ones I have done, look much better.
another great video.....newly subscribed and looking forward to more from you...I am HO scale but find your tips and tricks work for all scale...Stay on track my friend
Paint the Micro-Trains orange-ish metal coupler "hose" black and put a silver dot on the end for the gladhand. Then gather all your nerve and paint the step edges white.
Great video Ron. Very informative. Sense I’m new to the hobby I haven’t been brave enough yet to venture into the used equipment market. But I’m sure I will eventually. Thanks. Papadan
The important thing is to do your research, ask questions, and try to know what you are getting. You can get some great stuff lightly used or even unused second hand from collectors, but you can also get some real garbage. The key is to be careful.
I'm sure Mike does a great job. So far the milling I've done myself in ways that may seem primitive to some but have worked great. You will see in the upcoming videos. If I got into something I couldn't handle I would have to send it off, but I don't have a source I've used as of yet.
I did the 2004-1 MTL Couplers on 4 KATO’s. Two SD70ACe, ES44AC and a P42. They all seem to ride too high. Won’t couple to my Atlas Coal Hoppers with MTL Barber Roller Bearing Trucks with MTL Couplers. Looking at them from the side in close they are definitely above the other Couplers by half. This causes uncoupling on the main in motion. I wonder if I could Shim under the assembled boxes by cutting small rectangles of .010 Styrene and drilling a small hole for the retainer pin? Do you think this would work?
Are you sure the locomotive shells are seated all the way onto the chassis? The couplers mouont to the shells on Katos, so if they are too high the shell is not down far enough. Most Katos have the coupler draft gear box fit into a slot that surrounds it, so shimming isn't an option. In situations were shimming is an option, however, MTL couplers come with small washers for shimming.
Well I never had to take the Shells off. Did them with angled Tweezers upside down resting on a padded tray. I’ll get the LED magnifier goggles on and take a good close look.
Check along the top of the fuel tank. If the shell got pride up at all, often the skirting on the shell will get caught on the top of the fuel tank detail and the shell won't slide all the way down on to the chassis without pushing that skirting back to allow it to clear behind the detail on the fuel tank. You need to do this on both sides. I would check that and see what happens.
Can you replace horn hook couplers to knuckle couplers in ho scale I have uh gp 38 kato locomotive that doesn't have screws to mount the couplers looks like uh rivet
Here is a link to them at Micro-Mark. They come in 3 sizes. I mostly use the regular (green) and superfine (white). If you use the promocode RONSTRAINS at chek out you will save 10%.
Hi there Mr Ron I have a question to ask...when not in use what is the best way to store my n scale locomotives...in the case if possible but mostly in a upright position like if they were on the rails or on there side like at the store? The reason I’m asking is I have had two locomotives that somehow got lubricant in on and around the comutaiter and would stop dead and start smoking in a white color? Any advice would be helpful. I have not lubricated these engines because they were new and seen no need to cause they ran great, then sometime later I put them on the track and got white smoke and no movement. Again any help or advice would be awesome thanks in advance!!
Well, it is a long story, but the short version is that it was something silly that was part of a video intro I did 2 years ago (see first link below) and then made part of a highlight/bloopers video I made later (see second link below) and It cracked me up, so I just adopted it at the name of my non-incorporated, non-professional production "company." ua-cam.com/video/C-IwrtuEA2o/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/2jltrpfE45M/v-deo.html
Nice video! I model in HO but I can't say enough nice things about Kato's customer service. If they have the parts (some items are sold out) they are shipped quickly and the models can be back in business right away. It looks like you had good results with painting the dark end railings into yellow. Usually yellow needs a white or light gray primer because the yellow paints don't cover well.
Do you want to see more about super-detailing locomotives? Here is another high detail project. ua-cam.com/video/B2gWS0c95wA/v-deo.html
Ron, your videos always help us new to the MR hobby. Enjoy learning and applying new techniques from your videos very much!!
Ron, your descriptions of the upgrades was very helpful. Because you're so experienced, and I'm rather new at this, I'll play them over a number of times to make my changes. Thanks for the encouragment and "positive push" to make my changes of my used locos!! - Dean from cold Minnesota.
Great Presentation Ron ,You did an brilliant job on your new locos, look forward to your next episode ,Regards John
Thanks, John.
really nice job on the detail Ron. In the past when I custom painted a loco..the handrails were too close for comfort and my nerves to not get paint where I didn't want it. I found that I was able to cut strips of computer paper and slide them between the handrails and the loco body. Sliding the paper out also gave me the bonus of getting paint on the rear part of the handrail as I slid it out. Looking forward to the DCC additions to these locos. Tom
That's a great idea, Tom. Thanks for the tip.
Ron, your videos never disappoint. I am really looking forward to the dcc installation.
Thanks.
Great job Ron, I have 10 locomotives which I have to do the handrails and couplers to so the time is perfect, I am also really looking forward to seeing you install the DCC decoders as that is needed as well.
Thanks, Gregg. I'm glad you found it useful. I look forward to the DCC installs too. I actually may make them 3 separate videos depending on how long they get.
Thank you, Ron, very good information. I will use it a lot.
Ron, very nicely done. When it comes to the D.C.C. instalations, just bring it on. Can't wait. Cheers, Chris Perry.
I look forward to that. I will probably make 3 separate videos to highlight how I install 3 different decoders in 3 different ways.
@@RonsTrainsNThings 3 Video' s brillant. Now I need some advice please. Many, many years ago I modelled in "0" gauge, and long before D.C.C. I purchased a very expensive D.C. control panel with all the bells and whistles. It must have been used for 15 minutes at the most. Got it out of the box to test.It will run 4 "N" gauge loco's + a D.P.U. as smooth as silk. Loco's aren't fighting each other no speed matching, just put them on the layout and run. The control panel has a side panel to control a pair of loco's shunting a yard. I don't need walk around control the layout room is only 12' x 10' ft. The loco's I tested were 2 Kato, 2 Fox Valley I Micro Trains. What do you think ? I'm tempted to stick with what I've got. I've always wanted a big control panel anyway. Any thoughts would be greatly received, Thank you. Cheers, Chris Perry.
The one thing I would check is the voltage output of the pannel. Being designed for O scale, you may be pumping a lot of voltage into those N scale locomotives. If so you could run the risk of burning out motors prematurely. If the voltage output is aroudn 12V you should be golden.
@@RonsTrainsNThings This control panel was regarded as the Roll's Royce of panel's. The panels were hand built to order by a private individual, long since called above to build panels for that great model railway in the sky. It has12 volt controlled D.C., 12 volt uncontrolled,D.C., 16 volt A.C., 24 volt A.C. It has varibale braking slide control. varible momentum slide control. This main panel has a cab"A" and Cab" B" in one unit. The slave plugs into the side of the main panel. It has a neat trick. Set a train running on the main line with the varible momentum, throw a double pole double throw switch train keeps running but you can run another train just by using the normal rotary knob. The panel was designed to run everything from old Pitman motors right up to milliamp Swiss motors. Apart from the mountain of wiring needed for a D.C. system, I'm tempted. Otherwise I'll purchase an N.E.C. system. But if I don't have to purchase D.C.C. I've got more money to buy rolling stock. Cheers, Chris Perry.
WTG Ron on reaching 15 000 followers. I am proud to be one of them
Thanks, Sparky. It is pretty exciting.
Ron , I loved the info but I would suggest using Tamiya RC car colors to paint the rails as it is designed to stick to poly carbonates.
Thanks , Mike
Thanks for the tip Mike. I'll check that out.
I would second what Mike said. The RC car paint will not flake off. I paint the hand rails on the sprue and let it dry first. Then snip the rail off and install it. That way there's little to no chance of getting paint on the shell. ;) @@RonsTrainsNThings
Great reference video Ron. Your eye for detailing is as usual great. Great job👍👍
Thanks.
as always solid material and things sometimes forgotten. looking forward to dcc installs.
Very nice Ron!
Thanks.
excellent and educating, thanks for the great job Ron....I will be trying to repair several of my engines myself now.....
john
Good luck.
Great video ron I love your videos thanks
For Kato, I’ve also been able to find the specific parts by going to the models page itself (gs4, f3a, etc) when using the mobile version of the site (iPad /iPhone )
You have done a awesome job on the loco's
Thanks.
Awsome stuff ron vidios are cool
Nice work Ron! I'm going to need to do the same stuff, and now I know how to! :)
dejavu all over again. LOL.
I like to paint that copper color trip pin on the MT couplers some shade of black. As I think that as made color detract from the model. And that the darkened line looks more realistic. I have many more to do on my layout but the ones I have done, look much better.
I do the same. I just forgot to do it while I was making this video.
another great video.....newly subscribed and looking forward to more from you...I am HO scale but find your tips and tricks work for all scale...Stay on track my friend
Welcome to the channel.
Paint the Micro-Trains orange-ish metal coupler "hose" black and put a silver dot on the end for the gladhand. Then gather all your nerve and paint the step edges white.
I always paint the trip pins, and have done the steps in the past. I don't know why I didn't do that in this video. Just didn't think of it.
Nice video Ron :)
Great video Ron. Very informative. Sense I’m new to the hobby I haven’t been brave enough yet to venture into the used equipment market. But I’m sure I will eventually. Thanks. Papadan
The important thing is to do your research, ask questions, and try to know what you are getting. You can get some great stuff lightly used or even unused second hand from collectors, but you can also get some real garbage. The key is to be careful.
thank you Ron,they are looking good.Who does your milling?I know Mike Fifer is doing them,and bet he does a great job.
I'm sure Mike does a great job. So far the milling I've done myself in ways that may seem primitive to some but have worked great. You will see in the upcoming videos. If I got into something I couldn't handle I would have to send it off, but I don't have a source I've used as of yet.
I did the 2004-1 MTL Couplers on 4 KATO’s. Two SD70ACe, ES44AC and a P42.
They all seem to ride too high. Won’t couple to my Atlas Coal Hoppers with MTL Barber Roller Bearing Trucks with MTL Couplers.
Looking at them from the side in close they are definitely above the other Couplers by half. This causes uncoupling on the main in motion.
I wonder if I could Shim under the assembled boxes by cutting small rectangles of .010 Styrene and drilling a small hole for the retainer pin?
Do you think this would work?
Are you sure the locomotive shells are seated all the way onto the chassis? The couplers mouont to the shells on Katos, so if they are too high the shell is not down far enough. Most Katos have the coupler draft gear box fit into a slot that surrounds it, so shimming isn't an option. In situations were shimming is an option, however, MTL couplers come with small washers for shimming.
Well I never had to take the Shells off. Did them with angled Tweezers upside down resting on a padded tray.
I’ll get the LED magnifier goggles on and take a good close look.
Check along the top of the fuel tank. If the shell got pride up at all, often the skirting on the shell will get caught on the top of the fuel tank detail and the shell won't slide all the way down on to the chassis without pushing that skirting back to allow it to clear behind the detail on the fuel tank. You need to do this on both sides. I would check that and see what happens.
Can you replace horn hook couplers to knuckle couplers in ho scale I have uh gp 38 kato locomotive that doesn't have screws to mount the couplers looks like uh rivet
Man that makes a difference. Where do u get the microbrush.
Here is a link to them at Micro-Mark. They come in 3 sizes. I mostly use the regular (green) and superfine (white). If you use the promocode RONSTRAINS at chek out you will save 10%.
@@RonsTrainsNThings thanks man. Just got done with watching the more details of a locomotive.
Hi there Mr Ron I have a question to ask...when not in use what is the best way to store my n scale locomotives...in the case if possible but mostly in a upright position like if they were on the rails or on there side like at the store? The reason I’m asking is I have had two locomotives that somehow got lubricant in on and around the comutaiter and would stop dead and start smoking in a white color? Any advice would be helpful. I have not lubricated these engines because they were new and seen no need to cause they ran great, then sometime later I put them on the track and got white smoke and no movement. Again any help or advice would be awesome thanks in advance!!
How do you go about shimming the couplers to get proper height on the ES44? I have the same ES44 in CSX and the couplers ride a bit off.
On the locomotive they fit tight in the coupler pocket, so make sure the shell is fit snugly all the way down on the chassis.
@@RonsTrainsNThings I'll double check the fitting. Thank you!
What is the website?
What is tin lizy productions?
Well, it is a long story, but the short version is that it was something silly that was part of a video intro I did 2 years ago (see first link below) and then made part of a highlight/bloopers video I made later (see second link below) and It cracked me up, so I just adopted it at the name of my non-incorporated, non-professional production "company."
ua-cam.com/video/C-IwrtuEA2o/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/2jltrpfE45M/v-deo.html
Nice video! I model in HO but I can't say enough nice things about Kato's customer service. If they have the parts (some items are sold out) they are shipped quickly and the models can be back in business right away. It looks like you had good results with painting the dark end railings into yellow. Usually yellow needs a white or light gray primer because the yellow paints don't cover well.
👍
Anyone who can paint handrails on an N scale engine is okay in my book!
Lol, thanks. You're a good Joe yourself.
First.... (first time I've ever been able to do that :-) )
it is most of time a luck based game, if you're getting your moneys worth or not.
Nice work Ron! I'm going to need to do the same stuff, and now I know how to! :)
dejavu.
Nice work Ron! I'm going to need to do the same stuff, and now I know how to! :)
It isn't super hard and makes a huge difference in how they look.