Dan, thanks for this video. I have not had to do this yet, but have two diesel locomotives that need it. Your video gives me confidence that I can get it done. Sincerely, Kennedy
If you take your time and make careful note of how things come apart, you should be able to put it back together. I'm sure you'll do fine. Thanks for watching!
I really like this new series! Very informative, and useful to almost every model railroader regardless of scale! I look forward to a similar video in the future! Maybe about fixing low/high couplers!
Steam engines can be difficult to fix sometimes. If you don't already have one you might want to get an NWSL Quarterer, which will let you check the driver quartering. I'm glad you liked the video and thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi Thanks, i have to look at the with of the power truck itself. I have an old metal one I'm tinkering with and if I narrow the wheeltrack width, the wheels will be tight against the truck's body. I'll have to see some other ones, maybe a plastic truck set will be narrower or I can maybe cut it down.
Great video Dan! I've been checking wheel set gauge on all my diesels and rolling stock for years. I replace most rolling stock wheel sets with the appropriately sized metal offerings from Intermountain. Despite the Intermountain quality, I still find an occasional wheel set that is out of gauge. I never cease to be be amused when friends put brand new cars onto the rail, and can't understand why they derail?
Had two Athearn Genesis BNSF 3 bay hoppers with terrible wheel gauge, ending up adding IM wheels instead, the flanges loved derailing over some switches on a layout.
@@DanielCortopassi You're welcome. Yeah, I ordered HO stuff. First order, today, I got WaltersTrainline tank car Quad Hopper, and flat car. Flat car fine. Couldn't believe it - steel wheels. Terminology is still foreign. One had wheels undercarriage off and no screw. Other one screw in hole and carriage not attached. I've looked everywhere how to unscrew screw. Nothing. You did it at 4 minute mark, but my screws don't look like your screws. I'm screwed. At least a paper was in boxes from Walthers with number to call. Again, I truly appreciate reply. I'm laughing like heck. A hobby with problems.
Sorry to hear you had issues with your models. Sometimes you can use a substitute screw to attach the trucks if the original is missing. I've got a supply of small hobby-sized fasteners that I've collected over the years. Sometimes they come in handy as replacements.
Very interesting and informative. I've noticed that the front driving wheels on my largest locomotive (an HO Scale Pennsy K4) seem to come slightly off the track when going through turnouts, so I'm wondering if such a tool as the one shown here would resolve this issue, and if so, where I might be able to procure one.
The NWSL puller is still available. I did a quick search and it looks like the NWSL website has it, and it's also available from Walthers. They actually have several versions of it for different sizes. Also, I did a video recently on re-gauging the drivers on an N scale Bachmann 2-8-0. I used the NWSL tool as well as one from Great Planes that's intended for the R/C hobby, but can also be used for model trains. Thanks for watching!
Hey Dan! I'm still in the process of upgrading all my athearn blue box engines to nickel silver wheel sets, all 35 of them! I have finished 6 GP40-2s and 3 SD40-2s using your old video on detailing a SD40-2!! I almost wish now I was modeling N-Scale!😁😁 Oh yeah how is that Conrail engine coming along?
The Conrail SD40 is in the next episode of the consist build. I'm really hoping to get that out very soon. Upgrading the Blue Box wheelsets is well worth it. Thanks for watching!
Catching up on comments... On some diesels it might be possible to use small washers to limit the side-to-side play, but it really depends a lot on the truck design. Thanks for watching!
Great discourse. Perhps you can advise. I have a plastic Kato gauge on the edge of their re-railer which is 2 slots in the plastic. These fit the tracks exactly however the wheel flanges are all Narrower. yet the trains appear to run fineThe slots in the gauge line up with the middle of the wheel flats not the flanges is that correct spacing? Its this the case on you NMR gauge or ?
I don't think the Kato re-railer is necessarily an accurate wheel gauge. I would recommend picking up an NMRA gauge. It does a bunch of stuff, including checking wheel and track gauge (the spacing of the wheel flanges and distance between the rails are not exactly the same). Some track, like Kato Unitrack, is fairly forgiving if the wheel gauge is slightly narrow, and the equipment will run fine. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed the video Dan, I'm learning so much from watching, I bought an Athearn Genesis, SD60m/60I Diesel Road Locomotive, and the rear coupler is about a half a coupler high, I don't see an easy fix,, it looks to me like I'll need to shim and file, to get it lowered to the right height, any thoughts?
Shims are usually the way to lower a coupler on a diesel. You may need to remove some material below the coupler on the pilot if it's interfering with putting the engine back together. I plan to do an episode on fixing coupler height in the near future. Thanks for watching!
Daniel, can you give any information on wheel sizes? It can be confusing when replacing plastic wheels with metal (33" or 36"). I model in N scale, and the storage boxes they came in do not give any information on the wheel size. Are there any quick or good rules to follow?
A general rule of thumb is that steam era freight cars have 33 inch wheels. Most passenger cars have 36 inch wheels. Many, but not all, modern freight cars often have 36 inch wheels. It seems like cars with 100 ton capacity generally have the larger wheels, while some cars, like boxcars sometimes have 33s. It seems like a small difference, but it actually changes the look of a car, even in N scale. There are, of course, exceptions to everything, so the "rules" should be interpreted loosely. If you can do some research and find out what the car you're modeling actually had, that is of course the best bet. Thanks for watching!
Sorry if I missed your question before. You can measure wheel diameter with a scale ruler. You can also compare them to other wheels of a known size. 3 scale inches doesn't sound like much but even in N scale there is a noticeable difference between 33 and 36 inch wheels. 40 inch wheels are large for a lot of rolling stock, but more common on locomotives. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
I'm glad you liked the video. If you're talking about the wrench I used to remove the side rods of the steam locomotive near the end of the video, I don't know the exact size. Those wrenches are sometimes included with the locomotive. Sorry I can't be of more help. Thanks for watching!
Most of my aftermarket wheels are from Reboxx. They make HO scale wheelsets in a variety of sizes to fit different brands of models. Thanks for watching!
Another great instructional tutorial! Thanks, Dan!
Thanks for watching!
Dan, thanks for this video. I have not had to do this yet, but have two diesel locomotives that need it. Your video gives me confidence that I can get it done. Sincerely, Kennedy
If you take your time and make careful note of how things come apart, you should be able to put it back together. I'm sure you'll do fine. Thanks for watching!
Thank you, Dan. Clear instructions and excellent videography. Off to try this wonderful knowledge.
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great video Dan
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dan, all good hints....thanks for sharing....Jack
Thanks for watching!
Great video Dan , this type of content is definitely your niche, I enjoyed it greatly, Thank you!!!!
I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great learning video… I’m impressed! Looks like I’ll be buying one of those gauges for sure!! Thank you for the lesson!
You're welcome. I'm glad you found the program helpful. Thanks for watching!
I really like this new series! Very informative, and useful to almost every model railroader regardless of scale! I look forward to a similar video in the future! Maybe about fixing low/high couplers!
I'm planning a coupler episode. A lot of people have been asking for it. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video Dan, I wish you had posted this about four years ago...I have had to learn most of the lessons the hard way!
Better late than never? Thanks for watching!
Enjoy all your videos Dan. I need to try this on my 4-8-4 Bachman. Has a binding point somewhere.
Steam engines can be difficult to fix sometimes. If you don't already have one you might want to get an NWSL Quarterer, which will let you check the driver quartering. I'm glad you liked the video and thanks for watching!
Great Video Dan, I got lots of useful information from this video
Thanks for watching!
Great video! I've been wondering about this for years. Thank you. Now I need to get a puller for N-Scale.
I'm glad you liked the video. If you find a puller for N scale, let me know. I'd like to get one, too! Thanks for watching!
I'm new to railroading and this has been very helpful.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi I want to make an HO six wheel truck fit a TT track.
The techniques to fix wheel gauge could also be used to re-gauge the wheels. Good luck with your project!
@@DanielCortopassi Thanks, i have to look at the with of the power truck itself. I have an old metal one I'm tinkering with and if I narrow the wheeltrack width, the wheels will be tight against the truck's body. I'll have to see some other ones, maybe a plastic truck set will be narrower or I can maybe cut it down.
Always enjoy watching him
Thanks so much!
Great video, maybe if you get a chance do one on couplers again great video, keep up the great work.
I'm planning a coupler episode. No ETA yet, but it's coming. Thanks for watching!
Great video Dan! I've been checking wheel set gauge on all my diesels and rolling stock for years. I replace most rolling stock wheel sets with the appropriately sized metal offerings from Intermountain. Despite the Intermountain quality, I still find an occasional wheel set that is out of gauge. I never cease to be be amused when friends put brand new cars onto the rail, and can't understand why they derail?
I check everything before I put a car "in service". It's well worth the time spent, as it eliminates a lot of problems. Thanks for watching!
Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome information
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great instructional video..💖
Thanks for watching!
Had two Athearn Genesis BNSF 3 bay hoppers with terrible wheel gauge, ending up adding IM wheels instead, the flanges loved derailing over some switches on a layout.
Sometimes when wheelsets are too troublesome replacement is the only option. Thanks for watching!
awesome tips, thanks for your help
Thanks for watching!
as usual, great info, Thanks
Thanks for watching!
NEW SUBSCRIBER and new to hobby. Thanks. Eaglegards...
Welcome! And thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi You're welcome. Yeah, I ordered HO stuff. First order, today, I got WaltersTrainline tank car Quad Hopper, and flat car. Flat car fine. Couldn't believe it - steel wheels. Terminology is still foreign. One had wheels undercarriage off and no screw. Other one screw in hole and carriage not attached. I've looked everywhere how to unscrew screw. Nothing. You did it at 4 minute mark, but my screws don't look like your screws. I'm screwed. At least a paper was in boxes from Walthers with number to call. Again, I truly appreciate reply. I'm laughing like heck. A hobby with problems.
Sorry to hear you had issues with your models. Sometimes you can use a substitute screw to attach the trucks if the original is missing. I've got a supply of small hobby-sized fasteners that I've collected over the years. Sometimes they come in handy as replacements.
Thanks a lot for your explanation :)
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dan, I wondered how someone could do that.
You're welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Very interesting and informative. I've noticed that the front driving wheels on my largest locomotive (an HO Scale Pennsy K4) seem to come slightly off the track when going through turnouts, so I'm wondering if such a tool as the one shown here would resolve this issue, and if so, where I might be able to procure one.
The NWSL puller is still available. I did a quick search and it looks like the NWSL website has it, and it's also available from Walthers. They actually have several versions of it for different sizes. Also, I did a video recently on re-gauging the drivers on an N scale Bachmann 2-8-0. I used the NWSL tool as well as one from Great Planes that's intended for the R/C hobby, but can also be used for model trains. Thanks for watching!
Muy bueno el vídeo, muchas gracias, pude aprender varias cosas muy importantes
Gracias! Thanks for watching!
Thx again
Thanks for watching!
Should of mentioned that Athearn Bluebox/RTR should also have their wheels replaced for NWSL ones, they just work better.
There are a few companies making really nice aftermarket wheels, including NWSL. I like Reboxx, too. Thanks for watching!
Hey Dan! I'm still in the process
of upgrading all my athearn blue
box engines to nickel silver wheel
sets, all 35 of them! I have finished
6 GP40-2s and 3 SD40-2s using your old video on detailing a SD40-2!! I almost wish now I was
modeling N-Scale!😁😁 Oh yeah
how is that Conrail engine coming
along?
The Conrail SD40 is in the next episode of the consist build. I'm really hoping to get that out very soon. Upgrading the Blue Box wheelsets is well worth it. Thanks for watching!
Good stuff.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Great video. On is there a way to adjust the distance the axel floats from side to side on a diesel locomotive
Catching up on comments... On some diesels it might be possible to use small washers to limit the side-to-side play, but it really depends a lot on the truck design. Thanks for watching!
Great discourse. Perhps you can advise. I have a plastic Kato gauge on the edge of their re-railer which is 2 slots in the plastic. These fit the tracks exactly however the wheel flanges are all Narrower. yet the trains appear to run fineThe slots in the gauge line up with the middle of the wheel flats not the flanges is that correct spacing? Its this the case on you NMR gauge or ?
I don't think the Kato re-railer is necessarily an accurate wheel gauge. I would recommend picking up an NMRA gauge. It does a bunch of stuff, including checking wheel and track gauge (the spacing of the wheel flanges and distance between the rails are not exactly the same). Some track, like Kato Unitrack, is fairly forgiving if the wheel gauge is slightly narrow, and the equipment will run fine. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed the video Dan, I'm learning so much from watching, I bought an Athearn Genesis, SD60m/60I Diesel Road Locomotive, and the rear coupler is about a half a coupler high, I don't see an easy fix,, it looks to me like I'll need to shim and file, to get it lowered to the right height, any thoughts?
Shims are usually the way to lower a coupler on a diesel. You may need to remove some material below the coupler on the pilot if it's interfering with putting the engine back together. I plan to do an episode on fixing coupler height in the near future. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your video, how much Sir
Thanks for watching!
Daniel, can you give any information on wheel sizes? It can be confusing when replacing plastic wheels with metal (33" or 36"). I model in N scale, and the storage boxes they came in do not give any information on the wheel size. Are there any quick or good rules to follow?
A general rule of thumb is that steam era freight cars have 33 inch wheels. Most passenger cars have 36 inch wheels. Many, but not all, modern freight cars often have 36 inch wheels. It seems like cars with 100 ton capacity generally have the larger wheels, while some cars, like boxcars sometimes have 33s. It seems like a small difference, but it actually changes the look of a car, even in N scale. There are, of course, exceptions to everything, so the "rules" should be interpreted loosely. If you can do some research and find out what the car you're modeling actually had, that is of course the best bet. Thanks for watching!
still didn't answer my question, how to measure wheels, 33/36/40 diameter
Sorry if I missed your question before. You can measure wheel diameter with a scale ruler. You can also compare them to other wheels of a known size. 3 scale inches doesn't sound like much but even in N scale there is a noticeable difference between 33 and 36 inch wheels. 40 inch wheels are large for a lot of rolling stock, but more common on locomotives. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Love MTL but hate that they come with plastic wheels
I've replaced mine with metal ones. I throw the plastic ones in a container. When I get enough of them I put them on eBay. Thanks for watching!
Great video lots of useful information the wrench that you used do you have the size of the wrench?
Thank you
Clayton
I'm glad you liked the video. If you're talking about the wrench I used to remove the side rods of the steam locomotive near the end of the video, I don't know the exact size. Those wrenches are sometimes included with the locomotive. Sorry I can't be of more help. Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi
Not a problem just thought I would ask you never know.
You're welcome
What wheelset are the metal wheels that are insulated name please?
Most of my aftermarket wheels are from Reboxx. They make HO scale wheelsets in a variety of sizes to fit different brands of models. Thanks for watching!
Still no captions yet?
Not yet, no. Thanks for watching!