Brother Ron, very informative! This made the unassembled couplers seen much less intimidating. I strongly prefer the look of body-mounted operations. I convert all my M-T cars over, simply by removing the couplers with a hobby knife and re-installing them onto the body. One project I have is to convert my fleet of Altas 90-ton hoppers over, but that will require a mod such as a styrene strip to install - it would be awesome to see a video on that too!
Hi, Ron. What a timely video. Just getting ready to start converting all of my rolling stock to body mounted couplers! Your videos are always very informative and easy to follow. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us.
I am replacing all the couplers on my N scale Christmas train layout with MT knuckle couplers.. That is 41 cars total. So I guess I will be busy this summer. I am using MT couplers due to all the great reviews you and others have given them.
Great video. I also use the MT coupler kits. Found it interesting that you assembled them with gear box on top. I use the jig so the box is on the bottom. Also, I don’t use a tap on plastic. I let the screw cut its own thread. Just feel it is a little stronger. But a great idea on using the painters tape.
Ron, how long did it REALLY take to build those couplers? No pieces went flying? This is always been a daunting task to build these freaking things. Thanks for the video as always. Side Bar did you get your hands on one of those new Scaletrains Tier 4 gevos yet? If so what are your thoughts? Keep up the wonderful work and peace be with you, Arthur
One again Ron, another very useful video ,as I plan on installing body mount couplers ,trucks and wheels.Funny thing ,I just ordered that same MT tap&drill set from Fifer.Your videos are always most helpful and entertaining to watch.Keep up the great work ,I appreciate your time and effort...as I`m sure many do !! Paul T
One of my body mount couplers came apart while running and caused an uncoupling. Thanks to your video I managed to put it back together but I am missing the spring. Now I just need to find the spring somewhere on my layout.
For the most part, I use body mounted coupler rolling stock when coupled the to locomotive. I found the derailments are reduced because now the truck follows the track while the rolling stock body swings out with the locomotive body. Great video.
Great video Ron. I have the Kato Bethgon Protein gondola 8 car set, 106-4650. (which is almost identical to your coal set) and hate the stock couplers. Your video helped me immensely with this conversion. I used the unassembled Micro Trains coupler (1015-10) as well and took me about 20 min. per car. So, thanks again for your very intuitive and educational video.
Love the glue bottle holder ..... what a great idea!! And FYI, I am still a dinosaur with truck mounted Rapido style couplers as I run older locomotives on good ol DC controllers which works for me as I am really not into all the programming needed for DCC and my layout honestly would not really benefit from such an upgrade anyway unless I spent another fortune on DCC locomotives. Bells, horns and lights would be nice but not worth the time consuming and expensive investment for my needs. LOL "It aint' broke, so no need to fix it". Great video tho, I still learned a lot on how to handle small parts and those pesky liquid glue bottles that love to lay down at the slightest touch. 😳
Great tutorial. I've put body mounts on quite a few of my rolling stock, but still have more to do. Do you ever run into a problem where your trucks no longer swivel enough because the inside of the wheels hit the body-mounted couple box? I have a few like that and they derail on tighter radii.
HI RON, another good video. You are right about body mounted couplers, when I started modeling in n scale I tried to go to body mounted couplers, some cars were easy but you have to check heights too, and MT does make a tool to help assemble those tiny parts, about $10 they are a help but the tape is good idea too....thanks for sharing 😁
Great video. I've had little experience and bad luck with those springs. I went with MT bettendorf trucks with medium couplers on Kato coal cars, had to file the pin holes on the trucks so there was no stiffness turning left and right but they've been perfect so far. I'll be watching this video again when I have a need for body mounted couplers though.
My percentage is not that high. I tend to use the truck mounted couplers unless I have a problem or some specific reason to change, but I have no qualms about swapping them out for the body mounted ones. Anything that improves reliable running.
{N} gauge). .. I tried OO9 couplers which have a little wire hoop, instead of the "elsie" type uncouplers which needed help in coupling up to other wagons, there's not enough weight on these little trucks, it worked well for me. {O} gauge I use a home made wire hoop which clips over the hook with the 3 link chain, it's easier on the eyes and hands. Those couplers look quite fiddly quite a challenge ! they work well ! .
Great video, Ron. A couple of points. MT make a jig which makes putt g the couplers together a bit easier. It provides the "third hand" which comes in handy. Also, burnishing the mating surfaces of the couplers with the shaft of a small drill is supposed to make the various surfaces slide better. Finally, I saw a hint somewhere which suggested putting a length of thread through the springs until you have them in place. That stops them from flying across the room as they tend to do, never to be seen again. Then when everything is in place, just pull out the thread. Think of the money you could save not having to buy all those extra springs 😉
Someone else mentioned that jig. That would probably be handy, although doing it like this on the tape is really easy. Furnishing sounds like you good idea, although I've never really had trouble with the parks sliding on in scale colors. Ask for the springs, if you're really worried about them popping out that's a good idea, but I would think that getting the thread through those Springs is not an easy task and handling them with the hobby knife like I didn't this video I can't remember the last time I lost one.
Ron, I am in the process of putting Micro Trains body mounted couplers on all my rolling stock. I quickly discovered I can easily back a 15 car train through #6 turnouts without derailing. FYI-Micro Trains doesn't sell the drill and tap set anymore. They are hard to find. Also, they use to make a jig for assembling the couplers. MT doesn't list that anymore either, so I don't know if you can find them. I have used one for years and it makes assembly very fast once you get the hang of it.
I've heard of the jig, but as the video shows I've never used one nor felt the need for it. As for the drill and tap set, that is unfortunate, but the bits and taps can be purchased independently in a variety of places. Check with Micromark.com
Dear Ron, I discovered your channel today and I will watch all the videos, congratulations! Just one question: can you recommend a tele-uncupler device that is suitable for American type hooks? Like the ones you assembled and mounted. I think Kadee only does this for the H0 scale. Thank you so much, see you soon!
Here's an idea for a related how-to video. How do you adjust coupler height if it is too low or too high? I would guess that each one is addressed differently as to the remedies used. Right now, Ron, my two N-scale freight cars both have truck-mounted couplers and I am going to buy the items and tools, that I need as shown in this episode, and try my hand at this procedure.
Great video! To plug the hole however, I would use stretched sprue... The area where it tapers from the correct diameter to slightly oversize allows you to really shove it in and get a tight fit regardless of tolerances.
I noticed you did not show us how long it took to put that pesky little spring in place ?? LOL, i to have a unit train of these cars but i have only put body mounted couplers on one end of the lead car and the last car, i also fit couples to one end of the 2 middle cars in case i want to use helpers, nice video Ron thank you
Great video... showing the fix for a mistake will keep a lot of cars out of the trash can. I have started replacing my box cars with body mounted couplers. Have you done any covered hoppers where there is no material to used BMC?
I have done some covered hoppers. TrainWorx makes some add-on fixtures for some hoppers to solve this issue and they work great for those cars that they are made for. Again, I don't body mount couplers on all my rolling stock, only what really needs if for improved operation.
Excellent video. I’m just getting ready to convert some Kato freight cars to MTL body mount couplers. I think I’ll try assembling a few after seeing this, definitely not as bad as I though. For cars like tank cars, hoppers, and gondolas where the screw may poke through the frame or into the car, do you cut the excess with those flush cutting screw nippers? Or do you remove the screw after fitting and trim the excess? Thanks again for such a great video!
Wonderful video. Probably exactly what I need. Just started on a mini 2' by 3' layout with 3 of my grandsons (all from different families). Needed to fit in the boot of a car. Incorporated into the layout is a three siding shunting puzzle with magnetic uncouplers. Unfortunately I purchased cheap 10' and 15' 4 wheel Peco goods cars which have rapido couplers on them. The smallest radius curves on the layout are 6". My question is canI use the short shank Micro Trains couplers on them on our tight layout?
Ron, Kato couplers will easily couple with MTs IF you use rail nippers to n remove the bump on the side of the Kato. Most all of my cars have body mounted if possile.
The problem with the Katos is the lack of a moving knuckle. You can get them to couple with MT couplers, but you have to really work at it, you can't couple to them by just backing into them like you normally would, and they uncouple extremely easily especially on grades.
I have used the TrainWorx mounts for some older Atlas hoppers and they work swimmingly well. I have not tried the True Scale couplers. I love the reliability of operation you get with magnamatic couplers. True Scale, while they look better, are know to be a challenge to couple and uncouple and, as one who is big on operations, the trade off was never worth it to me.
Ron. I leave the trip wire on. Looks more like an air hose. Might find the need to mount and use an uncoupling magnet in a hard to reach location where a pick won't reach. Suggest changing couplers on one end only of two end cars if only running a string of Kato type cars used in loads in/ loads out service. Great tips on how to get er done. Mike
Thanks Mike. I will have to disagree about only changing end couplers on unit trains. I'm not at all impressed with the Colorado couplers in that they tend to come uncoupled pretty easily. This is specially a problem on grades. I just prefer to replace all of them with micro trains couplers for better reliability and more consistent look.
That is true, and that is why I am ultimately upgrading all the couplers. In this case however, these coal cars around in unit trains and Rarely get switched.
Thanks Ron. You've given me inspiration to start using the coupler bulk kit instead of the pre-assembled ones. Would it help to hit the couplers with some graphite when assembling them?
The unassembled couplers aren't bad once you do a few and get the hang of it. Ask for graphite, I've never found it necessary. These slick plastic parts move pretty well if they are assembled correctly. Graphite would be more helpful if you were in ho or larger scales and using metal couplers.
Great video!! I just subbed! I actually want to do this one all of my cars eventually. A issue I worry about is coupler height. I have a random assortment of rolling stock from new Kato's to old Bachmann's. Whats a easy way to make sure the height is correct while installing them, and what to do if its too low or too high?
That is a really easy problem to address if you were using body mounted colors. If he color is to high, Micro trains sins little Gym washers with the colors. Just put one of those or more in between the coupler and the body and it will lower the coupler. If the coupler is to low, do the exact same thing between the truck and the booster to raise the body up a bit.
Excellent demonstration. Some modelers who don't use magnetic uncouplers cut off the the wire on couplers. If you don't use magnets is there any point to inserting the the wire when assembling a coupler? Have you been adding trees to your mountain scene?
The couplers are much easier to assemble with the pin in place. It helps hold the coupler together until you get it installed in the draft gear box.. Some people then cut the pin off, but as far as purpose the pin is a pretty good representation of the air brake hose that is connected between couplers. Without the pain there is nothing to represent that in N scale unless you use a thread and magnets to represent the air hose.
... and yes, I've added some trees. I did a video about that a couple weeks ago. Getting ready to add some more trees still and some underbrush to the mountain area.
I've never done tank cars, and personally I wouldn't just because what it would take and because truck mounts work well in that case. However, if you were to do it you would need to build a platform to mount the coupler to under the end foot plate. Look at some prototype photos and you will see what I mean.
I'm assuming once i do this to one car, it will have to be done to them all so they all couple together ? what about locomotives , do i leave half of one piece of rolling stock with the original coupler so it can act as a connecting car between the locomotive and rest of the train ? I'm pretty new to this and right now i have some kato and some bachmann that don't like to work well together, and these body mount couplers could solve that issue. Oh! and thanks for the very informative video. i've learned a lot from watching your channel.
Hi Ron. What’s your opinion on using the dummy couplers body mounted on unit trains. At least from a money saving aspect and from none switching aspect of most unit trains.
Hey, Michael. I likek the idea in theory, IF you can get good dummy couplers that stay coupled reliably. I tried to do this with Kato coalporters but found that the Kato couplers came uncouopled too easily. If you can avaoid that issue I think it is a great idea for unit trains that will not get switched. Chances are your dummy couplers will be more scale size and look more realistic too.
At this stage, I haven't body mounted anything but I have some cabooses (caboosii? what is the plural do you think?) which will have to have them body mounted as the original couplings are body mounted rapidos and I don't know what MTL trucks come with long enough couplings to just replace.
Hey Ron .. I somehow fell a bit in love with your series - but especially regarding those Micro Trains N couplers I have a question - now before you laugh, I'm starting out with my first US rail layout and I'm still awaiting shipment ... unfortunately MTL got affected by the fires in Oregon - But what oil / stuff do you use in those couplers .. I've read that Micro Trains suggests their own stuff - which is hard to come by and expensive ... do you have any experience / suggestions what I should use ?
Well, I personally do not use anything. The couplers are made of derlin plastic, which is naturally very slick. I have not problem with them binding. Personally, if I were going to use anything on the couplers it would be powdered graphite. In the US it is sold in hardware stores for lubricating locks and latches. It does not attract dirt and does not "gum up" like many lubricants will do.
Hi Alan. Those are unique to Kato cars and I honestly don't know what the purpose is unless there is concern about the wheels rubbing against the underbody of the car. I don't know why that would ever be the case, but I don't know why those brass strips are there.
Some Kato cars have lighting installed - of the provision to do so - so I'd imagine this is an inherent design in the Kato tooling. Some cars obviously will never have lighting but the tool is the tool is the tool and it is cheaper to have it, than have a separate tool. Tools are expensive for making the models. Bloke I know down here does stuff out of China RTR and if he gets to tool wrong, and has to get it redesigned it costs something like $200k. Important to get right!
Hey Dwight. No, I don't really have problems there. If there is an issue it is usually with two truck mounted couplers one shoving the other through a switch. The pressure on the truck mounted coupler twist the truck in the rails and can cause derailment. If that is an ongoing issue with a car I upgrade to a body-mounted coupler and it usually solves the issue. A lot of it has to do with length of car. Longer cars have more problems with that issue on the tight radii of switches.
You have a great technique but I will tell you eye sight has to be very good even with magnification. My sight not good enough so I spend the extra money. Thanks for your post.
I could have done this 30 years ago. One of the reasons I model in HO is with enough light and magnification I can still see it. A tip from an old guy. In addition to your glasses get a forehead mounted light. It really helps!
Suggest you use soldering glasses - ideally a headmounted, those come even with additional light with several ultra bright white LED .. leaves your hands free and gives adjustable magnification
I think it is more a mental issue to overcome Than Physical in most cases. They are tiny, but not that hard to assemble once you do a few. Thanks for watching.
Wow. I thought truck-mounted couplers would handle tight switches better because they would better follow the tight curves, the coupler always being at right-angles to the axles as the wheels follow the curve. Is there an explanation of why body-mounted works better? I have an HO layout with Bachmann EZ Track so-called standard turnouts (approx #6) and switching is always 'an adventure '.
The problem with truck-mounted couplers on tight turnouts is that the push on the coupler puts lateral twisting pressure on the wheels and flanges as it turns--pushing sideways on the truck and thus contributing to derailment. With body-mounted couplers the trucks are free to turn without the pressure sideways directly on the wheels.
@@RonsTrainsNThings use nail clippers(finger) to remove the OEM coupler boxes from the trucks in one click, though not all are the same width. I found it more convenient to have dedicated pin vises fot the drill and the tap, and they are labeled so I don't grab the wrong one by mistake and they are always ready to use no matter what else you are working on. Occasionally you have to counter sink the screw hole or use a flat head screw avilable from WKW and others, so the axle does not rub the top of the screw and the truck won't sit flat (or use a 1025 even if you have to cut the back off after assembling). Have been body mounting since early 70's, creativity is a must! Liked the idea of using the tape to hold the parts! I get a 10 pack and assemble them all at the same time and keep couplers and parts in small box made for fishing tackle, weekly pill boxes work good too. Keep up the great work Ron!
Hello Ron I went to the Micro Trains website and saw all the PDF files on what coupler to use on my rolling stock. There are many types and couplers, short, long and six wheel ones. The issue is that I could spend a week making a list of that couplers before purchasing the couplers So, my question is this Do you know of anyone that I can pay to convert the cars and engines I have to Micro Train couplers? James
Ron I'm looking at doing a n scale layout this year (2022) I do not have any trains at present and I plan on using all Kato as it would suit my needs. Everyone speaks highly of Kato products EXCEPT there Couplers. But most of them have different brand locomotives and cars in there sets and want them all to work together so the coupler swap makes sense. So my question is if I'm using all Kato locomotives and cars will there couplers be an issue? Again it will be n scale. If anyone else that has all Kato wants to comment jump on in. Thanks RCW
tomorrow ill be installin 12 of these premade cuz my fingers but the reason is the 6-pack i bought have static couplers, i need to read closer i guess but i liked them also bougght 2 6 packs, i thought a 4 pack duh in any case ill see howe it ggoes
Kato couplers do couple to acumate couplers. I run them together all the time. Trying to figure out if i want to change to mtl true scale or make my own.
Ok, I keep getting this response. Not all Kat couplers are the same. These are dummy couplers, no moving knuckle at all, and they are compatible with nothing. Yes, some Kato couplers are working couplers, especially on newer locomotives, but these are not.
@@liamcooper5202 Perhaps the thing here is different definitions of compatible. Yes I can force them to couple with other brands but inwould not call them operational when inhave tonuse the "hand of God."
@@RonsTrainsNThings haha well that does knock some brands out from themselves 🤣 Its a shame mtl 1015s are so sloppy and the true scales dont couple with ease.
Not trying to be Negative as I really like your Videos Ron but on a certain layouts the Boby Mounts Can be well Rather Annoying Say for instance my D.M.R.R I'm basically Running Down 2 long strips with curves at both Ends if I have to Stop on the curve to either Back up into one of my Yards or stop back up and the Go I have 3 to 4 or 5 of my Body mounts uncouple on me And I have to go and Re hook and hope they stay together.. I'm not saying these type of couples are a Dred to have on my Rolling stock but it kinda takes the Fun out Railroading when your resetting the consist all the Time But I'm Glad you posted this as you show a Great change up from the ole KATO Coupler.. Thanks for sharing the Video..
I cannot say for sure without seeing what is happening, but I don't think you problem is specific to body mounted couplers. It may be an issue of shanks that are too long or too short. Typically one will have derailment problems with truch mounted couplers due to the lateral pressure they put on the trucks against the rails in a curve or turnout.
Ron have you made any videos showing the different length mirco train couplers? I know there is short, med and long couplers, but I don't know where to to use them. Thank you for all your videos you and the others really help. I been kicked off Fakebook to many times so I moved to MEWE. Not to sure if I like them. They have groups and I found a nice group of N Scale trains but they get all upset if you post any other scale but N scale. I told them we should honor all groups including live train feeds because they will help educate one and give others ideas. Anyway, I stopped posting in the groups and just do the home page. What's your feelings. Should these groups allow other information or just be stuck in never never land.
Hey Ron, HELP. I'm just starting out again in The best hobby in the world. Right now I'm trying to assemble a old Roundhouse Industry die cast box car. The base is metal/pot metal and the steps need cleaned up. If you were doing this how would you go about it. Thank you for your help
Hi like your video's. question ? I just bought a set of NEW Kato 11 car California zephyr 106-1055 with display track 2006 release . in the foam inner holder But Missing outside box. they are selling for upwards of $350.00 . on Ebay. will the Missing outside box cause it to be les desirable or worth less? looks Unused. and I want to sell it cause I don't have Kato Couplers. what is it worth?
I can't tell you what it's worth. It is worth what someone will pay for it. The missing box would hurt it's value to a collector, but an operator will be more interested in the condition.
Someone makes a conversion kit for the old Atlas coal hoppers, but I can't remember who off the top of my head. It may be TrainWorks. As for tank cars, I leave the truck mounted couplers on them.
Ounce you use the MT assembly jig you will never go back. You will think "Why did I ever do this on a hobby mat !" I can assemble a 10 pack of 1015s in less then 10 minutes with the jig. The MT assembly jig is a worth while investment.
THAT COUPLER IS TO SMALL IN LENGTH FOR ME TO USE WHAT IS THE LONGEST LENGTH OF COUPLER THAT MICRO TRAINS HAVE ? ON MY LAYOUT IS A TURNAROUND OF 19 DIG. OR LESS. I LOOK AT THE PICTURES OF DIFFERENT COUPLER'S ON THERE WEB SITE, BUT I CAN'T DETERMINE WHAT LENGTH THE COUPLER'S R. TKS.
These are short shank couplers. They make them is short, medium, and long shanks, but I can't tell you what the actual length of each is. You might try sending an email to MTL and ask.
The Kato couplers are functional not dummy, they come with trip pins you can add for realistic uncoupling, they work fine with atlas, micro trains, athearn, and Bachmann couplers.
Not true. Not in this case anyway. It is true that newer Kato locomotives come with couplers that are functional, these Kato cars do not. These are completely non functional, one solid piece, dummy couplers. They can sometimes be forcibly coupled to some others, but they are in no way operational. They don't even work well with one another. They have to lift up against their springs and slide over one another to couple and uncouple. In short, if you want to do any kind of switching they are completely useless.
@@RonsTrainsNThings So, Kato couplers do not play well with others? Therefore, I should either go all Kato, no Kato, or be prepared to swap out Kato couplers for Micro-Trains?
@@rayopeongo Kato couplers play well with other brands, while occasionally they will not couple on the first try they typically work fine from my experiences.
We are? Do you have a mouse in your pocket? Cricket in your ear? Pink elephant in the room? Or is it six-foot, three-and-a-half-inch tall rabbit named Harvey.
I watched this video, and decided to give it a go (modelling British N Gauge, so hadn't tried Kadees before, as they're more American). Firstly, in summary, I must disagree with your recommendation to buy the self-assembly version. I bought both to try - a pack of 4 pre-assembled cost me $10 (Canadian) from a local shop, and a pack of 4 kits cost $6.55 - so the saving was $3.45, or about 86c a coupler. It took me at least 15 minutes to get one assembled successfully, so I was paying myself less than $4 an hour, for extremely fiddly and annoying work. Hence, in future, I'd stick to buying the pre-assembled versions. Assembling the kits is very difficult... as you illustrate in your video, where you never, in fact, successfully assemble one on camera. Your tip of using a knife to place the spring is right on, and works well - those springs are very hard to handle with tweezers, and a knife, as you show, works way better. But, as you show (by never managing to do it on camera) the most difficult part is getting the lid on. You also don't mention in your video that (at least with the kits that I bought) it is necessary to cut down the box and the lid if you are trying to make the short version of the coupler. I have a tip of my own, that finally enabled me to get the lids on: put the screw through the hole in the lid; then hold the screw, below the lid, in tweezers, and insert the bottom of the screw into the hole in the box; now you should be able to gently withdraw your tweezers and let the lid fall into place on the box; then use the tweezers to align the lid properly, and then, with the tweezers partially open, press down with the side of the tweezers on both sides of the screw until the lid snaps into place.
Well now I have to explore body vs truck mounted couplers. Very informative and easy to follow video steps.
Brother Ron, very informative! This made the unassembled couplers seen much less intimidating. I strongly prefer the look of body-mounted operations. I convert all my M-T cars over, simply by removing the couplers with a hobby knife and re-installing them onto the body. One project I have is to convert my fleet of Altas 90-ton hoppers over, but that will require a mod such as a styrene strip to install - it would be awesome to see a video on that too!
Hi, Ron. What a timely video. Just getting ready to start converting all of my rolling stock to body mounted couplers! Your videos are always very informative and easy to follow. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us.
Thanks so much, and good luck on those conversions.
I am replacing all the couplers on my N scale Christmas train layout with MT knuckle couplers.. That is 41 cars total. So I guess I will be busy this summer. I am using MT couplers due to all the great reviews you and others have given them.
Great video. I also use the MT coupler kits. Found it interesting that you assembled them with gear box on top. I use the jig so the box is on the bottom. Also, I don’t use a tap on plastic. I let the screw cut its own thread. Just feel it is a little stronger. But a great idea on using the painters tape.
Ron, how long did it REALLY take to build those couplers? No pieces went flying? This is always been a daunting task to build these freaking things. Thanks for the video as always.
Side Bar did you get your hands on one of those new Scaletrains Tier 4 gevos yet? If so what are your thoughts?
Keep up the wonderful work and peace be with you,
Arthur
Excellent- Thanks for sharing. Needed a refresher and know this is the site for that sort of knowledge.
Very well done - It should give a newbie confidence. Thanks
Thanks for watching John.
Thank you yet again Ron. I'll be using this later on today.
One again Ron, another very useful video ,as I plan on installing body mount couplers ,trucks and wheels.Funny thing ,I just ordered that same MT tap&drill set from Fifer.Your videos are always most helpful and entertaining to watch.Keep up the great work ,I appreciate your time and effort...as I`m sure many do !!
Paul T
Thanks Paul.
One of my body mount couplers came apart while running and caused an uncoupling. Thanks to your video I managed to put it back together but I am missing the spring. Now I just need to find the spring somewhere on my layout.
Oh my! Good luck finding that spring. They are tiny.
For the most part, I use body mounted coupler rolling stock when coupled the to locomotive. I found the derailments are reduced because now the truck follows the track while the rolling stock body swings out with the locomotive body. Great video.
Thanks.
Great video Ron. I have the Kato Bethgon Protein gondola 8 car set, 106-4650. (which is almost identical to your coal set) and hate the stock couplers. Your video helped me immensely with this conversion. I used the unassembled Micro Trains coupler (1015-10) as well and took me about 20 min. per car. So, thanks again for your very intuitive and educational video.
I say the same thing to all N scalers. I don't know how you work with all those small parts. Great job!
It is good for the manual dexterity.
Excellent video. I have quite a few Kato freight cars, so this helps considerably. Thanks for doing this video.
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
The Tape is a great idea thanks. I work with N scale also. Keep that stock rolling!
Thanks, Hans.
Good Video Ron.
Mike
Thanks Mike.
I run body mount on all railcars. It works great on long coal trains I like to run.
Hey Ron nice recovery...thanks for all you do.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Thanks.
Great tutorial!!
Love the glue bottle holder ..... what a great idea!! And FYI, I am still a dinosaur with truck mounted Rapido style couplers as I run older locomotives on good ol DC controllers which works for me as I am really not into all the programming needed for DCC and my layout honestly would not really benefit from such an upgrade anyway unless I spent another fortune on DCC locomotives. Bells, horns and lights would be nice but not worth the time consuming and expensive investment for my needs. LOL "It aint' broke, so no need to fix it". Great video tho, I still learned a lot on how to handle small parts and those pesky liquid glue bottles that love to lay down at the slightest touch. 😳
Great tutorial. I've put body mounts on quite a few of my rolling stock, but still have more to do. Do you ever run into a problem where your trucks no longer swivel enough because the inside of the wheels hit the body-mounted couple box? I have a few like that and they derail on tighter radii.
Great How too.....Thanks for sharing!
Thanks.
HI RON, another good video. You are right about body mounted couplers, when I started modeling in n scale I tried to go to body mounted couplers, some cars were easy but you have to check heights too, and MT does make a tool to help assemble those tiny parts, about $10 they are a help but the tape is good idea too....thanks for sharing 😁
Great video. I've had little experience and bad luck with those springs. I went with MT bettendorf trucks with medium couplers on Kato coal cars, had to file the pin holes on the trucks so there was no stiffness turning left and right but they've been perfect so far. I'll be watching this video again when I have a need for body mounted couplers though.
Good luck.
Thanks for the demonstration Rob. I am currently running about 70% truck mounted couplers and 30% body mounts.
My percentage is not that high. I tend to use the truck mounted couplers unless I have a problem or some specific reason to change, but I have no qualms about swapping them out for the body mounted ones. Anything that improves reliable running.
Thanks Ron this is a great how to...i really learned a lot ty Tom
Thanks. Glad to hear.
{N} gauge). .. I tried OO9 couplers which have a little wire hoop, instead of the "elsie" type uncouplers which needed help in coupling up to other wagons, there's not enough weight on these little trucks, it worked well for me. {O} gauge I use a home made wire hoop which clips over the hook with the 3 link chain, it's easier on the eyes and hands. Those couplers look quite fiddly quite a challenge ! they work well ! .
Great video, Ron.
A couple of points. MT make a jig which makes putt g the couplers together a bit easier. It provides the "third hand" which comes in handy. Also, burnishing the mating surfaces of the couplers with the shaft of a small drill is supposed to make the various surfaces slide better. Finally, I saw a hint somewhere which suggested putting a length of thread through the springs until you have them in place. That stops them from flying across the room as they tend to do, never to be seen again. Then when everything is in place, just pull out the thread. Think of the money you could save not having to buy all those extra springs 😉
Someone else mentioned that jig. That would probably be handy, although doing it like this on the tape is really easy. Furnishing sounds like you good idea, although I've never really had trouble with the parks sliding on in scale colors. Ask for the springs, if you're really worried about them popping out that's a good idea, but I would think that getting the thread through those Springs is not an easy task and handling them with the hobby knife like I didn't this video I can't remember the last time I lost one.
hi Ron..great demo.. thanks for sharing.. vinny
Thanks, Vinny.
Ron, I am in the process of putting Micro Trains body mounted couplers on all my rolling stock. I quickly discovered I can easily back a 15 car train through #6 turnouts without derailing. FYI-Micro Trains doesn't sell the drill and tap set anymore. They are hard to find. Also, they use to make a jig for assembling the couplers. MT doesn't list that anymore either, so I don't know if you can find them. I have used one for years and it makes assembly very fast once you get the hang of it.
I've heard of the jig, but as the video shows I've never used one nor felt the need for it. As for the drill and tap set, that is unfortunate, but the bits and taps can be purchased independently in a variety of places. Check with Micromark.com
WOW !!! - Thanks for sharing...
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Dear Ron,
I discovered your channel today and I will watch all the videos, congratulations!
Just one question: can you recommend a tele-uncupler device that is suitable for American type hooks? Like the ones you assembled and mounted.
I think Kadee only does this for the H0 scale.
Thank you so much, see you soon!
I don't know how important it is with N gadgets but you may want to discuss coupler height adjustment which is important for HO gauge.
Here's an idea for a related how-to video. How do you adjust coupler height if it is too low or too high? I would guess that each one is addressed differently as to the remedies used. Right now, Ron, my two N-scale freight cars both have truck-mounted couplers and I am going to buy the items and tools, that I need as shown in this episode, and try my hand at this procedure.
THANK FOR YOU FOR DETAIL VIDEO
USE LITTLE NAIL POLISH ON END SCREW OF KADE SCREW AS STOP FULL OUT ON LAYOUT
Great video! To plug the hole however, I would use stretched sprue... The area where it tapers from the correct diameter to slightly oversize allows you to really shove it in and get a tight fit regardless of tolerances.
I noticed you did not show us how long it took to put that pesky little spring in place ?? LOL, i to have a unit train of these cars but i have only put body mounted couplers on one end of the lead car and the last car, i also fit couples to one end of the 2 middle cars in case i want to use helpers, nice video Ron thank you
Thanks for the video
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
What if any suggestions do you have to change out marx tilt and slot and pin couplers with knuckle couplers
I don't work with those or even O scale generally, but I believe you will have to replace the entire trucks...but don't quote me.on that.
could you please do a video about insulfrog and electrofrog
I will see what I can do.
thank's
Great video... showing the fix for a mistake will keep a lot of cars out of the trash can. I have started replacing my box cars with body mounted couplers. Have you done any covered hoppers where there is no material to used BMC?
I have done some covered hoppers. TrainWorx makes some add-on fixtures for some hoppers to solve this issue and they work great for those cars that they are made for. Again, I don't body mount couplers on all my rolling stock, only what really needs if for improved operation.
Excellent video. I’m just getting ready to convert some Kato freight cars to MTL body mount couplers. I think I’ll try assembling a few after seeing this, definitely not as bad as I though.
For cars like tank cars, hoppers, and gondolas where the screw may poke through the frame or into the car, do you cut the excess with those flush cutting screw nippers? Or do you remove the screw after fitting and trim the excess? Thanks again for such a great video!
I would look for shorter screws. Cutting will destroy the leading threads.
I would like to see how to assemble the micro train couplers, if you could do it on camera so it could be seen,it would be awesome.
Thank you that was very informative....
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Ron, do you have any tips for body mounting to non-MT cabooses without drilling through the platform?
Wonderful video. Probably exactly what I need. Just started on a mini 2' by 3' layout with 3 of my grandsons (all from different families). Needed to fit in the boot of a car. Incorporated into the layout is a three siding shunting puzzle with magnetic uncouplers. Unfortunately I purchased cheap 10' and 15' 4 wheel Peco goods cars which have rapido couplers on them. The smallest radius curves on the layout are 6". My question is canI use the short shank Micro Trains couplers on them on our tight layout?
That may be a challenge. I would try a couple and test them first.
Hey Ron, I run both body mount and truck mount, depending on the rolling stock.
Me too.
Ron, Kato couplers will easily couple with MTs IF you use rail nippers to n remove the bump on the side of the Kato.
Most all of my cars have body mounted if possile.
The problem with the Katos is the lack of a moving knuckle. You can get them to couple with MT couplers, but you have to really work at it, you can't couple to them by just backing into them like you normally would, and they uncouple extremely easily especially on grades.
Have you ever tried the TrainWorx body mount castings for hopper cars?
And have you tried the new MT TrueScale couplers?
I have used the TrainWorx mounts for some older Atlas hoppers and they work swimmingly well. I have not tried the True Scale couplers. I love the reliability of operation you get with magnamatic couplers. True Scale, while they look better, are know to be a challenge to couple and uncouple and, as one who is big on operations, the trade off was never worth it to me.
Ron. I leave the trip wire on. Looks more like an air hose. Might find the need to mount and use an uncoupling magnet in a hard to reach location where a pick won't reach. Suggest changing couplers on one end only of two end cars if only running a string of Kato type cars used in loads in/ loads out service. Great tips on how to get er done. Mike
Thanks Mike. I will have to disagree about only changing end couplers on unit trains. I'm not at all impressed with the Colorado couplers in that they tend to come uncoupled pretty easily. This is specially a problem on grades. I just prefer to replace all of them with micro trains couplers for better reliability and more consistent look.
Darn. I was taking what I thought was the easy way out. I guess I'll have to go ahead and install the whole pile of couples after all.
Lol, sorry. 👍
@@mlkesimmons758 That wouldn't work well if you were doing a lot of switching operations. Every car will wind up coupled to the engine at some point.
That is true, and that is why I am ultimately upgrading all the couplers. In this case however, these coal cars around in unit trains and Rarely get switched.
Thanks Ron. You've given me inspiration to start using the coupler bulk kit instead of the pre-assembled ones. Would it help to hit the couplers with some graphite when assembling them?
The unassembled couplers aren't bad once you do a few and get the hang of it. Ask for graphite, I've never found it necessary. These slick plastic parts move pretty well if they are assembled correctly. Graphite would be more helpful if you were in ho or larger scales and using metal couplers.
@@RonsTrainsNThings i suggest using powdered silicone lubricant.
Great video!! I just subbed! I actually want to do this one all of my cars eventually. A issue I worry about is coupler height. I have a random assortment of rolling stock from new Kato's to old Bachmann's. Whats a easy way to make sure the height is correct while installing them, and what to do if its too low or too high?
That is a really easy problem to address if you were using body mounted colors. If he color is to high, Micro trains sins little Gym washers with the colors. Just put one of those or more in between the coupler and the body and it will lower the coupler. If the coupler is to low, do the exact same thing between the truck and the booster to raise the body up a bit.
Excellent demonstration. Some modelers who don't use magnetic uncouplers cut off the the wire on couplers. If you don't use magnets is there any point to inserting the the wire when assembling a coupler? Have you been adding trees to your mountain scene?
The couplers are much easier to assemble with the pin in place. It helps hold the coupler together until you get it installed in the draft gear box.. Some people then cut the pin off, but as far as purpose the pin is a pretty good representation of the air brake hose that is connected between couplers. Without the pain there is nothing to represent that in N scale unless you use a thread and magnets to represent the air hose.
... and yes, I've added some trees. I did a video about that a couple weeks ago. Getting ready to add some more trees still and some underbrush to the mountain area.
Ron could you show how to put body mounted couples on and n-scale tank car ?? thanks Wendell
I've never done tank cars, and personally I wouldn't just because what it would take and because truck mounts work well in that case. However, if you were to do it you would need to build a platform to mount the coupler to under the end foot plate. Look at some prototype photos and you will see what I mean.
I'm assuming once i do this to one car, it will have to be done to them all so they all couple together ? what about locomotives , do i leave half of one piece of rolling stock with the original coupler so it can act as a connecting car between the locomotive and rest of the train ? I'm pretty new to this and right now i have some kato and some bachmann that don't like to work well together, and these body mount couplers could solve that issue. Oh! and thanks for the very informative video. i've learned a lot from watching your channel.
Great video new to your channel did you ever make a video about the ways to get the proper weight on the rolling stock thanks Joe
I would like to change my marx couplers to knuckle couplers so I can use my Lionel freight car's and my kline passenger cars
Thanks Ron, I have a lot of the kato coal gons, and I can't stand the stock couplers on them.
Hi Ron. What’s your opinion on using the dummy couplers body mounted on unit trains. At least from a money saving aspect and from none switching aspect of most unit trains.
Hey, Michael. I likek the idea in theory, IF you can get good dummy couplers that stay coupled reliably. I tried to do this with Kato coalporters but found that the Kato couplers came uncouopled too easily. If you can avaoid that issue I think it is a great idea for unit trains that will not get switched. Chances are your dummy couplers will be more scale size and look more realistic too.
At this stage, I haven't body mounted anything but I have some cabooses (caboosii? what is the plural do you think?) which will have to have them body mounted as the original couplings are body mounted rapidos and I don't know what MTL trucks come with long enough couplings to just replace.
Cabeese. LOL. You can get long-shank couplers, but body mounting is a better option.
Hey Ron .. I somehow fell a bit in love with your series - but especially regarding those Micro Trains N couplers I have a question - now before you laugh, I'm starting out with my first US rail layout and I'm still awaiting shipment ... unfortunately MTL got affected by the fires in Oregon - But what oil / stuff do you use in those couplers .. I've read that Micro Trains suggests their own stuff - which is hard to come by and expensive ... do you have any experience / suggestions what I should use ?
Well, I personally do not use anything. The couplers are made of derlin plastic, which is naturally very slick. I have not problem with them binding. Personally, if I were going to use anything on the couplers it would be powdered graphite. In the US it is sold in hardware stores for lubricating locks and latches. It does not attract dirt and does not "gum up" like many lubricants will do.
Do you wear magnifying glasses when you do all that intricate work?
Not usually. Just my bifocals.
What are those metal strips on the underside of the body next to where the trucks fit?
Hi Alan. Those are unique to Kato cars and I honestly don't know what the purpose is unless there is concern about the wheels rubbing against the underbody of the car. I don't know why that would ever be the case, but I don't know why those brass strips are there.
Some Kato cars have lighting installed - of the provision to do so - so I'd imagine this is an inherent design in the Kato tooling. Some cars obviously will never have lighting but the tool is the tool is the tool and it is cheaper to have it, than have a separate tool. Tools are expensive for making the models. Bloke I know down here does stuff out of China RTR and if he gets to tool wrong, and has to get it redesigned it costs something like $200k. Important to get right!
Another question: Do you have any issues mixing body mounted cars with truck mounted cars and backing them up? Or, on tight curves?
Hey Dwight. No, I don't really have problems there. If there is an issue it is usually with two truck mounted couplers one shoving the other through a switch. The pressure on the truck mounted coupler twist the truck in the rails and can cause derailment. If that is an ongoing issue with a car I upgrade to a body-mounted coupler and it usually solves the issue. A lot of it has to do with length of car. Longer cars have more problems with that issue on the tight radii of switches.
Would like to know how much turning radius you loss when body mounting couplers
I haven't noticed any real loss, but these are not long cars and I don't have an curves less than 14".
You have a great technique but I will tell you eye sight has to be very good even with magnification. My sight not good enough so I spend the extra money. Thanks for your post.
I could have done this 30 years ago. One of the reasons I model in HO is with enough light and magnification I can still see it. A tip from an old guy. In addition to your glasses get a forehead mounted light. It really helps!
PS, I do enjoy your work!
Suggest you use soldering glasses - ideally a headmounted, those come even with additional light with several ultra bright white LED .. leaves your hands free and gives adjustable magnification
You have so much patience. Those parts are so tiny. I can see why some people buy them assembled.
I think it is more a mental issue to overcome Than Physical in most cases. They are tiny, but not that hard to assemble once you do a few. Thanks for watching.
Do you frequently have to remove the coupler or trucks to shim one way or the other?
Sometimes, but rarely.
Wow. I thought truck-mounted couplers would handle tight switches better because they would better follow the tight curves, the coupler always being at right-angles to the axles as the wheels follow the curve. Is there an explanation of why body-mounted works better? I have an HO layout with Bachmann EZ Track so-called standard turnouts (approx #6) and switching is always 'an adventure '.
The problem with truck-mounted couplers on tight turnouts is that the push on the coupler puts lateral twisting pressure on the wheels and flanges as it turns--pushing sideways on the truck and thus contributing to derailment. With body-mounted couplers the trucks are free to turn without the pressure sideways directly on the wheels.
Thanks
you think about doing the 3D printing?
Probably not soon. A 3D printer is a pretty serious investment.
X-Acto Blade Chisel #17 might work a little better in the tight location
Possibly. 👍
@@RonsTrainsNThings use nail clippers(finger) to remove the OEM coupler boxes from the trucks in one click, though not all are the same width. I found it more convenient to have dedicated pin vises fot the drill and the tap, and they are labeled so I don't grab the wrong one by mistake and they are always ready to use no matter what else you are working on. Occasionally you have to counter sink the screw hole or use a flat head screw avilable from WKW and others, so the axle does not rub the top of the screw and the truck won't sit flat (or use a 1025 even if you have to cut the back off after assembling). Have been body mounting since early 70's, creativity is a must! Liked the idea of using the tape to hold the parts! I get a 10 pack and assemble them all at the same time and keep couplers and parts in small box made for fishing tackle, weekly pill boxes work good too. Keep up the great work Ron!
Hello Ron
I went to the Micro Trains website and saw all the PDF files on what coupler to use on my rolling stock. There are many types and couplers, short, long and six wheel ones.
The issue is that I could spend a week making a list of that couplers before purchasing the couplers
So, my question is this
Do you know of anyone that I can pay to convert the cars and engines I have to Micro Train couplers?
James
Ron I'm looking at doing a n scale layout this year (2022) I do not have any trains at present and I plan on using all Kato as it would suit my needs. Everyone speaks highly of Kato products EXCEPT there Couplers. But most of them have different brand locomotives and cars in there sets and want them all to work together so the coupler swap makes sense. So my question is if I'm using all Kato locomotives and cars will there couplers be an issue? Again it will be n scale.
If anyone else that has all Kato wants to comment jump on in.
Thanks RCW
How about height adjustment?
tomorrow ill be installin 12 of these premade cuz my fingers but the reason is the 6-pack i bought have static couplers, i need to read closer i guess but i liked them also bougght 2 6 packs, i thought a 4 pack duh in any case ill see howe it ggoes
Kato couplers do couple to acumate couplers. I run them together all the time. Trying to figure out if i want to change to mtl true scale or make my own.
Ok, I keep getting this response. Not all Kat couplers are the same. These are dummy couplers, no moving knuckle at all, and they are compatible with nothing. Yes, some Kato couplers are working couplers, especially on newer locomotives, but these are not.
@@RonsTrainsNThings interesting. Ive pulled my kato bethgons with atlas locos before. Needs tge hand of god though
@@liamcooper5202 Perhaps the thing here is different definitions of compatible. Yes I can force them to couple with other brands but inwould not call them operational when inhave tonuse the "hand of God."
@@RonsTrainsNThings haha well that does knock some brands out from themselves 🤣
Its a shame mtl 1015s are so sloppy and the true scales dont couple with ease.
I totally agree.
Not trying to be Negative as I really like your Videos Ron but on a certain layouts the Boby Mounts Can be well Rather Annoying Say for instance my D.M.R.R I'm basically Running Down 2 long strips with curves at both Ends if I have to Stop on the curve to either Back up into one of my Yards or stop back up and the Go I have 3 to 4 or 5 of my Body mounts uncouple on me And I have to go and Re hook and hope they stay together.. I'm not saying these type of couples are a Dred to have on my Rolling stock but it kinda takes the Fun out Railroading when your resetting the consist all the Time But I'm Glad you posted this as you show a Great change up from the ole KATO Coupler..
Thanks for sharing the Video..
I cannot say for sure without seeing what is happening, but I don't think you problem is specific to body mounted couplers. It may be an issue of shanks that are too long or too short. Typically one will have derailment problems with truch mounted couplers due to the lateral pressure they put on the trucks against the rails in a curve or turnout.
Ron have you made any videos showing the different length mirco train couplers?
I know there is short, med and long couplers, but I don't know where to to use them.
Thank you for all your videos you and the others really help.
I been kicked off Fakebook to many times so I moved to MEWE. Not to sure if I like them. They have groups and I found a nice group of N Scale trains but they get all upset if you post any other scale but N scale. I told them we should honor all groups including live train feeds because they will help educate one and give others ideas. Anyway, I stopped posting in the groups and just do the home page. What's your feelings. Should these groups allow other information or just be stuck in never never land.
I think each group has the right to set its own content guidelines. The trick is to find a group that has content that fits your needs and desires.
In the ksto cars case I would of used a micro trsins truck easier IMO.
Akin to being a Swiss watch maker Thank you =subscribed
Hey Ron, HELP. I'm just starting out again in The best hobby in the world. Right now I'm trying to assemble a old Roundhouse Industry die cast box car. The base is metal/pot metal and the steps need cleaned up. If you were doing this how would you go about it. Thank you for your help
I would carefully file them with a needle file.
Thank you Ron, just ordered a set of mini files from your Amazon account. Please keep the great videos and advice coming
@@CM-ARM Thanks.
Hi like your video's.
question ? I just bought a set of NEW Kato 11 car California zephyr 106-1055 with display track 2006 release . in the foam inner holder But Missing outside box. they are selling for upwards of $350.00 . on Ebay. will the Missing outside box cause it to be les desirable or worth less? looks Unused. and I want to sell it cause I don't have Kato Couplers. what is it worth?
I can't tell you what it's worth. It is worth what someone will pay for it. The missing box would hurt it's value to a collector, but an operator will be more interested in the condition.
Thanks Ron . These look so good that i am considering to keep the after all .
Ron. You should magnetize your screwdrivers.
What I really need is ine of those screw grabbers, but I've never invested in one.
ohh yeahh www.amazon.com/Precision-Phillips-Screwdriver-Screw-Holder-Claw/dp/B005IZD48W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527638801&sr=8-6&keywords=screw+grabber
What's the drill and screw number for n -scale. Thanks.
Tap drill is #62, then use the 00-90 tap to cut threads. Screw size 00-90
Why does Kato make there couplers so they don't open? How are you supposed to couple up 2 cars, with the 5-finger helper?
I suppose so. This is just Kato's proprietary design. Remember, they are imported and they have a significant business in their native Japan.
Right, but I wonder if in Japan do they just run round-and-round trains? Or do they do operations with their trains.
That I don't know.
The Kato couplers do open, the engines and cars Kato sells come with trip pins for realistic operations
@@nsnjrailfan1617 I would like for you to look at the image linked here and tell me how this is ANYTHING BUT a dummy coupler: ibb.co/HY0KF2Q
I just started converting all my cars to body mounts I'm about 60% thur my cars the biggest pain is the tank cars and old atlas coal cars
Someone makes a conversion kit for the old Atlas coal hoppers, but I can't remember who off the top of my head. It may be TrainWorks. As for tank cars, I leave the truck mounted couplers on them.
Ounce you use the MT assembly jig you will never go back. You will think "Why did I ever do this on a hobby mat !" I can assemble a 10 pack of 1015s in less then 10 minutes with the jig. The MT assembly jig is a worth while investment.
If I didn't already you can add this task to the don't like list.
I used to think that, but after doing a few it is kind of fun.
THAT COUPLER IS TO SMALL IN LENGTH FOR ME TO USE WHAT IS THE LONGEST LENGTH OF COUPLER THAT MICRO TRAINS HAVE ? ON MY LAYOUT IS A TURNAROUND OF 19 DIG. OR LESS. I LOOK AT THE PICTURES OF DIFFERENT COUPLER'S ON THERE WEB SITE, BUT I CAN'T DETERMINE WHAT LENGTH THE COUPLER'S R. TKS.
These are short shank couplers. They make them is short, medium, and long shanks, but I can't tell you what the actual length of each is. You might try sending an email to MTL and ask.
Tru k mt couplers but I run shorter cars
The Kato couplers are functional not dummy, they come with trip pins you can add for realistic uncoupling, they work fine with atlas, micro trains, athearn, and Bachmann couplers.
Not true. Not in this case anyway. It is true that newer Kato locomotives come with couplers that are functional, these Kato cars do not. These are completely non functional, one solid piece, dummy couplers. They can sometimes be forcibly coupled to some others, but they are in no way operational. They don't even work well with one another. They have to lift up against their springs and slide over one another to couple and uncouple. In short, if you want to do any kind of switching they are completely useless.
@@RonsTrainsNThings
So, Kato couplers do not play well with others? Therefore, I should either go all Kato, no Kato, or be prepared to swap out Kato couplers for Micro-Trains?
@@rayopeongo Kato couplers play well with other brands, while occasionally they will not couple on the first try they typically work fine from my experiences.
RON. This is just what I have been looking for. The un- assembled Kadee instructions are - well, not quite helpful at all!!
Lol, so true.
Ron. Have you made the universal T-shank couplers? Can you post a how-to?
Wanted to let you know that because of THIS video, I had confidence to 'build' the Microtrains universal adaptir coupler. Thank Уоu for your work!
When I am worried about the weight in my car I just tell the wife to get out
Wow what a racket. I hate my n scale. Always breaks. Always comes apart. 35 dollars a car
Looks like someone needs a new camera with good macro and use 1080 HD
We are? Do you have a mouse in your pocket? Cricket in your ear? Pink elephant in the room? Or is it six-foot, three-and-a-half-inch tall rabbit named Harvey.
What are you talking about?
very 1st thing you say is We are...but I see no one else to complete the we. :)
We as in me and you. Lol
I avoid truck-mounted couplers. Body mounted ALL the way. Best for switching.
I watched this video, and decided to give it a go (modelling British N Gauge, so hadn't tried Kadees before, as they're more American). Firstly, in summary, I must disagree with your recommendation to buy the self-assembly version. I bought both to try - a pack of 4 pre-assembled cost me $10 (Canadian) from a local shop, and a pack of 4 kits cost $6.55 - so the saving was $3.45, or about 86c a coupler. It took me at least 15 minutes to get one assembled successfully, so I was paying myself less than $4 an hour, for extremely fiddly and annoying work. Hence, in future, I'd stick to buying the pre-assembled versions. Assembling the kits is very difficult... as you illustrate in your video, where you never, in fact, successfully assemble one on camera. Your tip of using a knife to place the spring is right on, and works well - those springs are very hard to handle with tweezers, and a knife, as you show, works way better. But, as you show (by never managing to do it on camera) the most difficult part is getting the lid on. You also don't mention in your video that (at least with the kits that I bought) it is necessary to cut down the box and the lid if you are trying to make the short version of the coupler. I have a tip of my own, that finally enabled me to get the lids on: put the screw through the hole in the lid; then hold the screw, below the lid, in tweezers, and insert the bottom of the screw into the hole in the box; now you should be able to gently withdraw your tweezers and let the lid fall into place on the box; then use the tweezers to align the lid properly, and then, with the tweezers partially open, press down with the side of the tweezers on both sides of the screw until the lid snaps into place.
N scale is just ti small ,I’ll stick to ho . That said I still like watching your videos.. thanks
Thank you.
if I body mount a coupler on my leg would it allow someone to pull my leg? (moan now)