Just in case you are in a hurry: Basic Construction starts at 00:42 French Seam tutorial starts at 04:53 Are there any other basic techniques you wish there was a video out there for? Let me know!
Simply moving your needle right to make a smaller seam allowance and still following the edge of your foot, rather than moving your fabric in and trying to follow a single "entering" point on your foot, is genius and I'm so glad I noticed it in your video!!
I know this is an extremely old video but I do come back and watch it EVERY TIME I do frenched gussets just to check I'm going the right way about them!
This is an amazingly useful and oft needed tutorial. I love historical sewing, mainly 19th century, but I have been wanting to make earlier garments (ie Medieval - Baroque) and have been discouraged by the gussets. I also really appreciate that you showed how to french seam the gusset as well since I prefer the sturdier seam for machine washing (*gasp* I know its blasphemy to want to machine wash my hand made historical clothes and cosplays) and overall longevity of my garments.
I started this video asking myself "What the heck is a gusset and why is this in my recommended videos" and was pleasantly surprised that it was something I needed for making a nightshirt for my father for his birthday. Thank you! This was very useful!
Ohh! I was trying to figure out the whole arm gusset from Bernadette Banner's Shift video. I bought all the stuff to try it with cotton muslin before I dive in.
I have saved this to a folder, "sewing". It was a great help that the material pieces were all different colours. Great tutorial. Thank you from the UK, even if this video was posted a year ago.
Ace tutorial...I couldn't figure out how to do a French seamed square gusset and here it is! Way easier than I was expecting, no snipping into seam allowances and sits really nicely when finished. Thank you for sharing!
I have used this tutorial so many times. Included for a Big 4 pattern when the instructions didn’t make sense for the sleeve gussets. Thank you for making this!
Wow, I was actually about to hand sew the gusset for a shift. Also I just found out that you can position the needle on a sewing machine through the way you did the first seam of the French seam. I learned quite a few things today
You made this many years ago, but want to take the time to say thank you! I've been trying to figure this crap out with those French seams for a long time now. Thank you thank you!
Ahhhh I just figured something out! I've heard both you and Marika mention "surging" and only today realised you're talking about what we call "overlocking"!!! Makes so much sense now hahahaha! We call the machine an overlocker 😂👍
Overlocking machine is a more intuitive term than "serger". In the context of sewing seams there isn't a whole lot else it could mean, over lock, lock over... but serge? I can't even find an etymology for it. (and yes, it is serge, as distinct from surge to rise excessively, or swell, which doesn't happen to provide any clues either) Wikipedia had my back, a bit: "Overlocking is also referred to as "overedging", "merrowing", or "serging". Though "serging” technically refers to overlocking with cutters, in practice the four terms are used interchangeably." Merrowing coming from the inventors/rights holders to the technology for serging (overlocking with cutting). [en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock] Another term being "baby lock machine" used commonly on American sewing tutorial shows seen on TV in the US and Canada in the 90s - as Baby Lock, was a frequent sponsor of these programs. Cool. Thanks for inspiring that rabbit-hole of research. : ) And if anyone can tell me where "serger" or "serging" comes from, please do.
I just put a triangle shaped gusset into a sleeve with this tutorial, the end result looks very smooth. I wanted to say thank you for this tutorial, the others I found on youtube weren't clear enough for me.
Very well done. I used flat felled on my chemises. I finished one that had one sleeve on the outside. I didn't even see the difference for months. hahahaha. Everything was finished inside and out. I Love that about the French seem and the flat felled. No bare edges.
Thank you! I am right in the middle of remaking an old alb with french seams, gussets, and no instructions. It has been going very well so far, but I really didn't know how to do the sleeve/gusset/french seam combo. But thanks to you, I now understand, and I really appreciate this video, you have explained everything very well, and have saved me much seamripping and frustration. :)
Your only scared to fail, use junk fabric and go hog wild practicing, if you can do a normal sleeve in junk you can do one in linnen, its just practice thats all, BE BRAVE!!
Thanks for this video. I had to adapt a pullover pattern I'm making for my son to have underarm gussets, because the material isn't very stretchy, and your clear instructions gave me a lot of confidence in what steps to take, and do a tidy job.
your gusset tutorial is the best! thank you so much, I did the gusset on my 4 fat quarters pajama bottom but not so sure on my 5 -6 fat quarter's tunic top :)
i just started sewing recently so its a little bit difficult to remember to take care of those seams so they dont fray in the wash haha plus i get excited to finish a garment :P this was a very nice tutorial that was clear and to the point! well done (:
If it doesn't need to look neat on the inside, but you just want to stop tge fraying, the fastest way I know is just to zigzag the seam allowance together after you've stitched the seam. It avoids the extra bulk of a French seam, though it's slightly less flat than ironing it open.
I made a shift yesterday following your instructions and wound up a little tight in the armholes and across the bust. Luckily for me I’d watched this video and knew exactly what to do! Many, many thanks!
I've been subbed to you for ages so why did I only find this video when I googled "how to sew gussets" (you were the #1 video suggestion btw)? Oh well. At least I knew it'd be a clear, easy to follow, good tutorial. Thank you very much,Morgan!
ahhh, where would I be without Morgan. I should have come here first! attempting to make a jersey knit (because I'm a masochist obviously) pirate shirt on my sewing machine. highly period inappropriate but SUPER comfy and fun to wear.
This tutorial is amazing! You have no idea how much you saved me! May I just stress that for the French seam you will need a bit more cloth. I added some when doing an outfit for my nephew and it got really tight 😅
Thanks to you I did solve how to put the gussets in. Now I am puzzling on how to decide how big to have the arm scye be. I have some gathering to do on the sleeve before attaching it to the body . Luckily this is the mockup.
I thank you for this wonderful work. Could you do one showing how to do the triangle parts at the sides of a tunic please? Im getting wearable results but i know you would be a shinning light of tips and insight for the task.
This is a lifesaver. I've never made a historical garment (despite all the videos I watch) but I make my own dance costumes - I'm a tribal fusion bellydancer and our cholis usually have gussets because, well, they end under your boobs and without a gusset you would lift your arms and flash everyone, depending on the material. But they've always driven me crazy. Not anymore!
im mine blown!!!!! when I saw that thing sewing without a foot.... omg.. out of the whole video that was amazing lmao. I know it might of been a mistake but i just ever seen that before
Just in case you are in a hurry:
Basic Construction starts at 00:42
French Seam tutorial starts at 04:53
Are there any other basic techniques you wish there was a video out there for? Let me know!
Thanks,cause I'm in a hurry!
PRAISED BE THE DONNER! I've been looking for ages for a tutorial on this matter, now I can be buried in peace in my 3rd century danish tunic...
I definitely have a love-hate relationship with French seams I love them but I hate doing them LOL...thank you for sowing us how to sew a gusset
They are not my favorite thing to do... but I'll be darned if they don't make for a satisfyingly neat finish when done!
Simply moving your needle right to make a smaller seam allowance and still following the edge of your foot, rather than moving your fabric in and trying to follow a single "entering" point on your foot, is genius and I'm so glad I noticed it in your video!!
I hate gussets. I have never found a good way to attach them. This was so helpful, thank you!!
Lol, gussets aren't the most beloved piece on an outfit, but they do make the shoulder and chest fit so much nicer! :D
I know this is an extremely old video but I do come back and watch it EVERY TIME I do frenched gussets just to check I'm going the right way about them!
This is an amazingly useful and oft needed tutorial. I love historical sewing, mainly 19th century, but I have been wanting to make earlier garments (ie Medieval - Baroque) and have been discouraged by the gussets. I also really appreciate that you showed how to french seam the gusset as well since I prefer the sturdier seam for machine washing (*gasp* I know its blasphemy to want to machine wash my hand made historical clothes and cosplays) and overall longevity of my garments.
Wow, that was a very, very easy and clear explanation! Even I understood that 😂 this is the type of tutorials I need 😂
I started this video asking myself "What the heck is a gusset and why is this in my recommended videos" and was pleasantly surprised that it was something I needed for making a nightshirt for my father for his birthday. Thank you! This was very useful!
I would definitely not have dared to try French seams with a gusset and sleeve like this! Great explanation.
Morgan, this is beautifully done. Clear instructions provided one step at a time, words enunciated for clarity, easy visuals.
Ohh! I was trying to figure out the whole arm gusset from Bernadette Banner's Shift video. I bought all the stuff to try it with cotton muslin before I dive in.
I'm here the exact same reason!
What a great, clear tutorial! Next time I need teach this to someone, I'm going to recommend your video! The French Seam version is really good!
I have saved this to a folder, "sewing".
It was a great help that the material pieces were all different colours. Great tutorial. Thank you from the UK, even if this video was posted a year ago.
Omg, searching for gusset tutorial on Google and lo and behold Morgan Donner!! Lovely surprise, can't wait to try this!
Ace tutorial...I couldn't figure out how to do a French seamed square gusset and here it is! Way easier than I was expecting, no snipping into seam allowances and sits really nicely when finished. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for this- even with your tutorial, I have had to unpick and re-do MANY times. Not a hope of having done it without you!
I love how you used 3 different color fabrics so it's easier to see what piece is what!
I have used this tutorial so many times. Included for a Big 4 pattern when the instructions didn’t make sense for the sleeve gussets. Thank you for making this!
Wow, I was actually about to hand sew the gusset for a shift. Also I just found out that you can position the needle on a sewing machine through the way you did the first seam of the French seam. I learned quite a few things today
You made this many years ago, but want to take the time to say thank you! I've been trying to figure this crap out with those French seams for a long time now. Thank you thank you!
I did not know you can sew without the presser foot... this was so clear and informative, thank you!
Ahhhh I just figured something out! I've heard both you and Marika mention "surging" and only today realised you're talking about what we call "overlocking"!!! Makes so much sense now hahahaha! We call the machine an overlocker 😂👍
Overlocking machine is a more intuitive term than "serger". In the context of sewing seams there isn't a whole lot else it could mean, over lock, lock over... but serge? I can't even find an etymology for it. (and yes, it is serge, as distinct from surge to rise excessively, or swell, which doesn't happen to provide any clues either) Wikipedia had my back, a bit:
"Overlocking is also referred to as "overedging", "merrowing", or "serging". Though "serging” technically refers to overlocking with cutters, in practice the four terms are used interchangeably." Merrowing coming from the inventors/rights holders to the technology for serging (overlocking with cutting). [en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock]
Another term being "baby lock machine" used commonly on American sewing tutorial shows seen on TV in the US and Canada in the 90s - as Baby Lock, was a frequent sponsor of these programs.
Cool. Thanks for inspiring that rabbit-hole of research. : ) And if anyone can tell me where "serger" or "serging" comes from, please do.
I just put a triangle shaped gusset into a sleeve with this tutorial, the end result looks very smooth. I wanted to say thank you for this tutorial, the others I found on youtube weren't clear enough for me.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Other tutorials have said to add one to a dress but they didn’t give a step by step that was so clear.
Very well done. I used flat felled on my chemises. I finished one that had one sleeve on the outside. I didn't even see the difference for months. hahahaha. Everything was finished inside and out. I Love that about the French seem and the flat felled. No bare edges.
Thank you! I am right in the middle of remaking an old alb with french seams, gussets, and no instructions. It has been going very well so far, but I really didn't know how to do the sleeve/gusset/french seam combo.
But thanks to you, I now understand, and I really appreciate this video, you have explained everything very well, and have saved me much seamripping and frustration. :)
You’ve come so far with your channel since the early days! I’m super proud of you 👍
I really appreciate you making this video! You have saved me so many armpits of frustration! 💪
I knew I could count on you to come through with this tutorial, thank you!
And now I must make piles of shirts with gussets... because other sleeve fitting is TERRIFYING.
Your only scared to fail, use junk fabric and go hog wild practicing, if you can do a normal sleeve in junk you can do one in linnen, its just practice thats all, BE BRAVE!!
Thank you! This video will be very helpful when I finally get time to sew my chemise!
Awesome! I'm sure that your chemise will come together swimmingly :D
Thanks for this video. I had to adapt a pullover pattern I'm making for my son to have underarm gussets, because the material isn't very stretchy, and your clear instructions gave me a lot of confidence in what steps to take, and do a tidy job.
Oh this was a good find since I'll have to sew gussets soon using a pretty expensive fabric. This tutorial was so clear I think I can manage it!
Finally. A gusset walk through that I can understand! Thank you for sharing!!
Finally getting around to sewing a linen under dress and this was needed
This video was really helpful. I'm hand sewing my first shirt and was unsure where to end the seams. Thank you!
This video has helped me so much with sewing gussets in shifts, thank you!!!
Thank you!! I've been trying my best to figure out gussets on sleeves and it just melted my brain . Thank you!
your gusset tutorial is the best! thank you so much, I did the gusset on my 4 fat quarters pajama bottom but not so sure on my 5 -6 fat quarter's tunic top :)
I would love more video's like this. I'm abysmal with my sewing machine.
Good to know! Thank you for the comment!
Thank you SO much ! I followed your directions step by step, and my gussets turned out perfectly. Thank you !
I needed this so much right now!!!! How have I missed this!!!
Thank you so much Morgan! I was very interested in how to do this for a shirt I'll be making, and the inclusion of the French seams was very great :D
You are very welcome! I hope your shirt making goes smoothly!
i just started sewing recently so its a little bit difficult to remember to take care of those seams so they dont fray in the wash haha plus i get excited to finish a garment :P this was a very nice tutorial that was clear and to the point! well done (:
If it doesn't need to look neat on the inside, but you just want to stop tge fraying, the fastest way I know is just to zigzag the seam allowance together after you've stitched the seam.
It avoids the extra bulk of a French seam, though it's slightly less flat than ironing it open.
Thanks! This is one of those skills that I use rarely. It’s great to have such a concise and detailed tutorial to remind myself how to do it neatly.
This video is so clear and simple to understand, thank you 😊
thanks for the tutorial, informative, clear, and entertaining. enjoyed it
I made a shift yesterday following your instructions and wound up a little tight in the armholes and across the bust. Luckily for me I’d watched this video and knew exactly what to do! Many, many thanks!
I just started to get interested in using gussets, but have been very intimidated to try. This has helped a lot!
I've been subbed to you for ages so why did I only find this video when I googled "how to sew gussets" (you were the #1 video suggestion btw)? Oh well. At least I knew it'd be a clear, easy to follow, good tutorial. Thank you very much,Morgan!
omg I've literally been looking for a video like this forever. Thank you.
Brilliantly explained and presented. Thanks Morgan!
I love your sewing tutorials You actually sew!
ahhh, where would I be without Morgan.
I should have come here first!
attempting to make a jersey knit (because I'm a masochist obviously) pirate shirt on my sewing machine. highly period inappropriate but SUPER comfy and fun to wear.
Gussets are scary, gussets with French seams? Normally I'd be out of there but you made it look possible and maybe even not too difficult.
This tutorial is amazing!
You have no idea how much you saved me!
May I just stress that for the French seam you will need a bit more cloth.
I added some when doing an outfit for my nephew and it got really tight 😅
This is a wonderful tutorial! Thank you!
Thank you for this very useful tutorial !!! I’ve spend so much time trying to figure out and failing ! 💗
This just solved everything!! Thank you so much :) Your tutorials are so easy to follow
aaa thank you !! this is how to sew "baju kurung" our traditional clothes too~ thank you ~✨
Ich verstehe zwar nicht viel, aber es wird ja so schön gezeigt, dass ich es nachmachen kann, vielen Dank 🙏 🎉
Very clear instruction you've shown! Thanks!
Thanks to you I did solve how to put the gussets in. Now I am puzzling on how to decide how big to have the arm scye be. I have some gathering to do on the sleeve before attaching it to the body . Luckily this is the mockup.
An excellent tutorial!
That was great, thank you so much! I love how consistent your seams were, this makes me want to get back into sewing again, I've missed it so
Thank you! You help me a lot in making my project!
Really, really helpful. Thank you Morgan 😊
You are amazing! Thank you very much for this very helpful tutorial, it's exactly what I've been looking for!
Lol. good timing on the video. I am just at that step on my 1590's smock. Mine all by hand but still funny.
Perfect tutorial ❤ Thank you!
Thank you, this tutorial helped me a lot!
I thank you for this wonderful work.
Could you do one showing how to do the triangle parts at the sides of a tunic please?
Im getting wearable results but i know you would be a shinning light of tips and insight for the task.
Once again, Morgan to the rescue.
Oh goodness, French seams on that seems like one heck of a job! 😆 but it looks nice.
Lol, it does look a little extra tight and complex on such a wee little 'shirt'! It's a bit less overwhelming on a bigger adult sized shirt though!
Awesome! Thank you for the tutorial :D
Thank you so much, Morgan! You make it so clear and easy but before this video was shared to me I was totally bamboozled
Thanks for this - the sleeves on my new kyrtle look a look better than the first one I made.
Wow, what an excellent tutorial! 👍Thanks! 🙏🏼
SUPER helpful! Thank you!
Great tutorial, thank You!
Very informative . Thank you.
I had two questions before this video started. They got answered in 20 seconds XD
Thank you. Much needed!!!!!
This is a lifesaver. I've never made a historical garment (despite all the videos I watch) but I make my own dance costumes - I'm a tribal fusion bellydancer and our cholis usually have gussets because, well, they end under your boobs and without a gusset you would lift your arms and flash everyone, depending on the material. But they've always driven me crazy. Not anymore!
im mine blown!!!!! when I saw that thing sewing without a foot.... omg.. out of the whole video that was amazing lmao. I know it might of been a mistake but i just ever seen that before
This mock-up reminds me of my state's flag 😍
So much appreciated!
Thank you very much. very helpful !
Going to try this with my new regency chemise.
Hopefully I will do it right
Neato! Thank you for making it so clear.
Thank you for using different colored fabric
I confess I'm watching this video while ironing my very modern clothes lol
super helpful tutorial but im a little lost on which side (right or wrong) of the fabric i'm sewing the peices together by.
this is a fabulous tutorial, but what is the purpose of a gusset? why is it needed? usually don't you want less fabric there?
thank you!! that's so helpful =)
Thank U Morgan!!!!!!💛
I was trying to sew in the gusset all at once instead of just one side at a time. It was puckering up and looked awful. I’m ready to try again now
Oh any chance of a tutorial on how to insert gores particularly the back/front gore
I'll add it to the suggestion list!
Wow! That was so informative thank you!🍄🦋🐻🦉🐌