Hi, I was just about to buy the Dakota2 150 liter model. Priced at £560, but I'm glad I found this video. I have read a lot about these models with the same engine and there is always the same problem, head gasket. For example, ABAC has the same problem in the same engine. And they also warn not to buy it because after a year the ABAC PRO A39B 150FM3 model has the same problem. And this is true because I had this compressor and returned it. My old clarke compressor was almost 30 years old and worked without any problems, and somehow the head gasket is still good today. It seems to me that all these compressors from this series with these twin engines are one big crap, just look at their construction, they all look almost the same. I don't know where in England you can buy a good quality compressor and is it even possible? Regards and thank you for the warning.
Make some checks on what you want it for as i have the 100litre direct drive compressor from SGS as they told me it would run all air tools and spray guns but it is a lie as it will not run high air volume tools properly as the compressor can't keep up and in trying to keep up it will over heat then shuts off. So i wouldn't bother with it unless you are just using low volume air tools. When i sent an email they ignored it i tried to put up a review it wasn't shown so all you see is good reviews from people that only use the compressor for light duty's i guess. Just thought i would pass my view on so maybe help others not to make the same mistake.
@@markmdusty3 That will be the displacement, the FAD would be much lower, possible more like 9.6CFM, remember most tools will have a recommended CFM and you need to 1.5 that rate, so a 6CFM drill (example) would need 9CFM to run sufficiently. The Advertised CFM is more displacment and looks impressive, but you need the FAD (the true air pressure) usually 2/3rd of the displacement. Share by 3 and you get the actual FAD (Free Air Delivery) meaning deduct 1/3rd and you get the actual FAD. Equipment has the CFM rating (1.5 the rate and you can't go wrong) - sometimes you can add a second tank (if possible) and increase your air capacity, but this depends on your motor size and endurance, as it can overheat and burn out if not suitable. So do you spray paint? what gun type do you use or is it just tools?
Thanks for follow up video. After researching on the internet it would appear that 90% of these compressors are all made by the same company in China then re-badged Wolfe, Hyundai, Burisch and many other brand names. I have the same model as you but with the Hyundai name, thru Genpower. It has issues with the cutout switch too like yours did. It's rated 15A thermal cutout, was wondering if a higher amp, say 18A cutout may help? One good thing about these range of compressors is the fact the spares are "generic" and readily available on eBay. Thanks again for your video posting really informative.
The Power Supply - Check to make sure that your air compressor is plugged right into the wall socket, and it is not being powered through an extension cord or power bar. Reason being is that the wire in the extension or power bar may not be large enough to allow the flow of power that the compressor motor needs. The power cord of the compressor is sized to allow sufficient power to the compressor motor. Restricting it through a smaller wire will cause the motor to over heat. If the motor overheats, the thermal cut out will shut it down. This is a very common issue. www.about-air-compressors.com/compressor-reset-button-always-trips/
I have the 150 ltr version, same pump and motor, runs for hours each day and it's faultless after 3 years, I also find it easy to fill the oil and the gauge is easy to see, hands down beats my old Abac compressor
I have the same compressor and can’t even get it going now with out blowing fuses , it was fine at first, then after a couple days of minimal use started playing up, brilliant when it’s running, but regretting getting it now,
Hello, I would imagine that it is the same as the sgs version although I get your point about sgs being contactable. I don't think I will go with either model as ide wonder if these models are poor quality and will keep having problems. Thanks for the review I think I'll go for workhorse one.
You’ve saved me from making the same mistake. Thank you 👍👍👍
Hi, I was just about to buy the Dakota2 150 liter model. Priced at £560, but I'm glad I found this video. I have read a lot about these models with the same engine and there is always the same problem, head gasket. For example, ABAC has the same problem in the same engine. And they also warn not to buy it because after a year the ABAC PRO A39B 150FM3 model has the same problem. And this is true because I had this compressor and returned it. My old clarke compressor was almost 30 years old and worked without any problems, and somehow the head gasket is still good today. It seems to me that all these compressors from this series with these twin engines are one big crap, just look at their construction, they all look almost the same. I don't know where in England you can buy a good quality compressor and is it even possible? Regards and thank you for the warning.
Thankyou just you just change my mind
saved me buying one, was about to buy one
Thanks Andrew for helping me make my mind up. Its the sgs for me.
Make some checks on what you want it for as i have the 100litre direct drive compressor from SGS as they told me it would run all air tools and spray guns but it is a lie as it will not run high air volume tools properly as the compressor can't keep up and in trying to
keep up it will over heat then shuts off. So i wouldn't bother with it unless you are just using low volume air tools. When i sent an email they ignored it i tried to put up a review it wasn't shown so all you see is good reviews from people that only use the compressor for light duty's i guess. Just thought i would pass my view on so maybe help others not to make the same mistake.
@@markmdusty3 Your HVLP not working with the SGS 100L? I can understand the air tools. What's the CFM for that compressor?
@@gazsto9510 cfm is 14.6
@@markmdusty3 That will be the displacement, the FAD would be much lower, possible more like 9.6CFM, remember most tools will have a recommended CFM and you need to 1.5 that rate, so a 6CFM drill (example) would need 9CFM to run sufficiently. The Advertised CFM is more displacment and looks impressive, but you need the FAD (the true air pressure) usually 2/3rd of the displacement. Share by 3 and you get the actual FAD (Free Air Delivery) meaning deduct 1/3rd and you get the actual FAD. Equipment has the CFM rating (1.5 the rate and you can't go wrong) - sometimes you can add a second tank (if possible) and increase your air capacity, but this depends on your motor size and endurance, as it can overheat and burn out if not suitable. So do you spray paint? what gun type do you use or is it just tools?
Thank you very very much for this. I was just about to buy one, something in my head said UA-cam first. Thank goodness I listened.
Thanks for the warning, I was just going to waste £300 on one
Thank you, glad I checked UA-cam out
Thanks for follow up video. After researching on the internet it would appear that 90% of these compressors are all made by the same company in China then re-badged Wolfe, Hyundai, Burisch and many other brand names. I have the same model as you but with the Hyundai name, thru Genpower. It has issues with the cutout switch too like yours did. It's rated 15A thermal cutout, was wondering if a higher amp, say 18A cutout may help? One good thing about these range of compressors is the fact the spares are "generic" and readily available on eBay. Thanks again for your video posting really informative.
The Power Supply - Check to make sure that your air compressor is plugged right into the wall socket, and it is not being powered through an extension cord or power bar. Reason being is that the wire in the extension or power bar may not be large enough to allow the flow of power that the compressor motor needs. The power cord of the compressor is sized to allow sufficient power to the compressor motor. Restricting it through a smaller wire will cause the motor to over heat. If the motor overheats, the thermal cut out will shut it down. This is a very common issue. www.about-air-compressors.com/compressor-reset-button-always-trips/
Thanks for sharing your experiences fella
I have the 150 ltr version, same pump and motor, runs for hours each day and it's faultless after 3 years, I also find it easy to fill the oil and the gauge is easy to see, hands down beats my old Abac compressor
Thanks for the heads up!.
I have the same compressor and can’t even get it going now with out blowing fuses , it was fine at first, then after a couple days of minimal use started playing up, brilliant when it’s running, but regretting getting it now,
do you have it on a 13 amp circuit? They need 16A for the start up current.
I have a similar unit with a 3HP motor which I run off a 13amp socket but it is wired direct to the circuit board, not off the ring main. No problems.
Hello, I would imagine that it is the same as the sgs version although I get your point about sgs being contactable. I don't think I will go with either model as ide wonder if these models are poor quality and will keep having problems. Thanks for the review I think I'll go for workhorse one.
Did you get a workhorse compressor? and if you did what size tank? any good?
Thanks for the review. I was wondering why there are so many seller refurbished ones one ebay. I think you answered my question. Chinese rubbish!!