I have my dad's Ithaca LSA65 in .30 06. I understand they were made by Tikka for Ithaca. I shoot 1 MOA groups with handloads using Hornady bullets. Great gun. I'd rather have my dad though.
My old man will mention firearms and items that are going to me and my siblings from time to time. I always tell him to stick around and keep his gear. I'll be good with that. So I feel you on that front.
@@mot0rhe4d40 People often don't realize how important their parents are until it's too late to do anything about it. It's been 37 years since I lost my dad and there's hardly a day when I don't get a reminder or otherwise think of him. My mom too. They leave us too soon.
The Tikka T3 Lite 30-06 I gave my son for his college graduation was guaranteed by the manufacturer to be MOA out of the box. Well it was, and it didn't have the ejection problem this one did luckily. My biggest complaint was the worthless recoil pad they put on it, but a new Limbsaver cured that problem. Your relative's rifle is certainly a solid enough rifle for hunting, though I have no idea why anybody would feel the need to have a cumbersome bi-pod on a hunting rifle. I wish him luck with it.
I own Tikkas in various calibers. They shoot lights out. I’m not a big fan of scrubbing with bronze brushes, but not knowing how this rifle was shot in the past, I’d give it a deep cleaning. Secondly, I’d check the torque on the action screws. My Tikka T3s tend to like 40 inch pounds at the rear and 35 inch pounds at the front.
@@leeeng478 - I got the replacement steel recoil lugs from Tikka. I believe they were $20. Supposedly, this is more of an issue on Magnum calibers, then say a 243 or 6.5. Replacing the lugs on the synthetic stocks is easy, not so much the case on wood.
One thing I did not see you mention to check would be any contact of the barrel to anything along the barrel channel. Any contact on the barrel will affect barrel vibrations and accuracy. Free float the barrel will give you better accuracy.
My T3x CTR 260 Rem is the most consistently accurate factory rifle I have ever had. Regarding ejection, it does sling the spent case out like lightning but it's not Savage slow either. Very smooth bolt. Check the scope. Maybe a janky reticle and something is shaky in there. The 11 twist is typically better for 168 to 175 grain bullets.
Personally ,I would lower the ring height first. True the rings and level the scope. Check crown, float check, torque screws to spec. Match grain bullet to barrel twist. Then shoot.
Excuse me paul moss, the guy has no scope mounted, and there are no sights on the rifle. Not that your advice would be wrong but sometimes you have to believe your lying eyes.
Ive never had a tikka, always heard good things about them. I have haf several 06's my favorite being my howa 1500. I get sub moa with factory 150 grain blue box federal ammo . I wouldn't think that a tikka, with their reputation would be all over the place like this, it's got to be something simple easily overlooked
I've got a howa 1500 as well and I've only just discovered the 150 grain blue box federal (powershok's) recently myself! Good load for this gun. Mines the fluted barrel model, I'm chasing a walnut stock for it though as the black rubber stock that it came with I can no longer handle 😅
Everybody raves about Tikkas but i’m not a fan. Good triggers but that’s it based on my experience. Maybe I’ve just gotten lemons. In Europe they’re much cheaper than over here because of import costs and seen as an okay budget option, the way we view a TC compass or Savage axis. Just like those some are tack drivers but it’s luck of the draw. I have given up on trying to make a bad one shoot, there’s just too many good options for the same price or less (like the Ruger American). I’ll be glued to this none the less, I’m rooting for ya brother!
I bought a brand new Tikka M55 Standard .243win in Australia back in 1990 that shot 2.5 to 3 inch groups at 100 Yards with 100 grain Winchester Power Point bullets , but with Winchester Supreme 100 grain BTHP it Shot 3/4 inch @ 100 Yards and 1/2 Moa ( 1inch groups) at 200 Yards . The bolt on that rifle was silky smooth and the trigger broke like a glass rod . I regret trading it in 3 years ago to buy another rifle .
Thanks for commenting Jim! I believe it. I am sure to some extent the scope is what is going to be the limiting factor for this project. I may take it off but its not mine. I can say at this point everything is tight and 1 MOA groups aren't going to be any trouble for this rifle in this configuration. I do hope I get some feedback about the ejector spring. The biggest downside I see is the lack of in stock replacement parts. you can't buy just one spring and the whole kit is $73 and back ordered. That's a bad day if need it now. But Hey maybe they never break.
Jacques from Margate in South Africa we work in mm here and I am also in the process of moving the bullet closer to the Lance. I have a 3006 Musgrave and use 165gr Hornady SST also 1/11 twist very interested in your findings please can we communicate in the future thank.
I had a Tikka T3 in 300 Win Short Mag. It would put the first two shots from a clean cold barrel to touching at point of aim. Third shot was usually 3/4 inch away. That was with Winchester Supreme150 gr ballistic tips. That gun was stolen. I have a T3 in 6.5x55 that shoots any ammo I have tried to 1 MOA for 3 shots as guaranteed. Even Priv and S&B. Both rifles are left handed. The 6.5x55 has a long freebore. I would start by changing to a good known scope and retest your ammo. I have had several clunker scopes in the last 10 years. Even a brand new Nikon that was not cheap.
I have the exact same gun since the day it was brand new it don't throw brass very far. I think it's just the design of the gun. I shoot 150 grain than mine is extremely accurate.
what exact ammunition are you using to accomplish 1" groups? I am asking because I just purchased a Tikka T3 Lite in 30-06. What "Blue Box" are you referring to? Thanks
@@ryridesmotox My old Lee data 8-14-96 says for a 180 Gn Jacketed 42.7 as a starting load and 48.3 Max @ 3.250. My lower (ish) loads are very accurate.
@@daviddale3624 the alliant website shows 47 to start with a 200gr and 52 for a 150. I'm sure it is a nice wide node in that range. Just seems kinda wasteful to have such a big case and not use it haha. I have loaded up 46 gr of IMR4064 in my 308 Jag cases with no pressure signs. But that's as much as I could get in there.
Check the barrel to see if its full floating. Should be abke to slide a dollar bill inbetween the barrel and the stock, all the way down the barrel. Might need to sand the stock down a little bit. I also notice that newer Remington rifles tend to dribble empty cases out of the rifle rather than a firm eject, so perhaps thats an industry standard.
Heres the short cut for 3006 that needs to be accurat enough for anything from rock chucks at 400 yards or deer out to 300 yards 150 grain sierra pro hunter seated reasonably close to the lands. 50 graind 4064 Large rifle standard primer. Probably the most universal 06 load in existance Proven in multitudes of rifles. Most vital aspect is getting close the the lands ,15 to 30 tho.
Did you checked the stock screws to make sure they were tight before shooting it ? I’m surprised it shoot those groups , Tikka rifles are known for their accuracy. It’s well worth it to try premium quality ammunition in these rifles . You might be able to put a Sako extractor on the Tikka . I have no doubt that with the quality of bullets you will be handloading you will be getting groups in between 3/4 inch to 1.2 inch at 100 Yards no problem which is great accuracy from a stock standard sporting/hunting rifle .
As a lefty, I've come to really appreciate the attention Savage has paid to the LH segment of the market, which has made me a VERY loyal Savage customer. I have two old pre-accu-trigger Savage 110s, one in .308 and one in 30-06, and both have nice wood stocks and shoot quite well.
Honestly, the first thing I would do is put a better scope on it with lower rings and see if that doesn’t make a significant difference. Then start reloading from there. Hard to get high quality groups with a low quality scope. I’m not trying to be a jerk, but from the video it appears to be an older scope and the rings are pretty stinking high haha.
If it was mine, it would have had a new scope to start with. It will be a limiting factor IMO as well but goal set is under an MOA and I think we are not going to have any trouble, even with the scope. Believe it or not the scope height is perfect with my check weld though.
Bolt Action Reloading obviously everyone’s cheek weld is different. I just point that out, because that would not even allow me to look through the scope for me with a proper cheek weld. We all have different faces though! 😂
Its a HUNTING rifle, not a heavy barrel benchrest rifle there Elroy. A 3" group at 150 yards is totally acceptable for hunting as long as the point of impact is center target, not 6" to the side. A consistent powder charge that gives no more than a 10 fps velocity spread will do more than any one other thing to tighten groups. Throw that bipod over the hill for a hunting rifle,...useless clutter junk.
My Howa 30/06 shoots lights out. My 308 Howa does the same. My 243 Howa doesn't care if it's Remington or winchester 100 grain softpoints. My vanguard 300 win mag does its best with 180 grain winchester power points. Every single one of these rifles are extremely accurate. No way in hell will I ever part with my rifles. Crazy accurate, but so is my Ruger American in 308. Don't want or care for anything else.
Three rounds will give you three 2-round groups, but four rounds will give you six 2-round groups. Twice as many groups for just one more round. Any hunter will tell you 2-round groups are important. Any real hunter will tell you 1-round groups are the most important.
Years ago I found a couple boxes of Remington Accelerator in 30.06. They were a 223 sabot in the 30 cal brass. anyone else ever find this? How did yours shoot? I also saw that sabot in 30.30 once
The accelerators that I shot were like crap. About 4 MOA out of a 1-10 barrel of a 300 WIN MAG. But I can’t complain, because I got them as a close out for 100 for $1.50. Oh well, I still have quite a few of those projectiles but I won’t load them up in anything that “I” have unless I just happen to run across a rifle for a screeming good deal. Even then I it needs to be a 1-13ish barrel.
Want to be so accurate it is boring? Simple: Get yourself a Winchester M70 30-06 with a good barrel, and load some custom handloads with Hornady A-Max 168-grain or some of those 168-grain ELD-M pills. Use IMR-4064 and some match-grade primers, and you're off and running. Do some load development and testing, and you should be able to develop a load capable of shooting sub-0.5 moa all day long.
Superdude70 Nice. I haven't got a scope on my 6.5x55, so I have no idea exactly how accurate it is, but judging from how well I shoot it, I'm guessing pretty well. My 8mm on the other hand, is a beaten, rusted, sporterized with the worst ever stock, yet I can get less than 1 moa out of it, and they're both being seated as long as I dare for the mag. I don't think they really care that much.
Hi Joe, this is already free floated from the factory. If you want to see where I was able to get to with this you can check out this video ua-cam.com/video/53G1Tl9bmLk/v-deo.html
Hi! I don't know if it's been verified already and this is just an unresearched guess but about the ejection of the brass, here's my thought... I know when I bought my t3x they were heavily advertising their new ejection design and how you would never get a sideway brass stuck anymore, so if this rifle is older than when the t3x went out, it's possible that is was normal for earlier models to have trouble with ejection. But again I might be wrong. Though, if anyone knows you are more than welcome to correct me. Have a good day and keep em coming! I love your videos.
Making a comment about how the gun through the brass out of rejected the brass. I would prefer the gun not to throw the brass 10 ft away from me when I pull the bolt back cuz I do say the brass and I reload. If I'm out in the woods and I'm shooting at a deal I will not know where the brass goes. If the gun throws at 10 12 feet away, I before to drop it at my feet the same with my shotguns
If you are in the US. Its called "Metric" and "Standard". I realize that to most of the world uses metric as their standard size but that is what it is called here.
Bloody nice rifle you have there. First things first, give the bore a bloody good scrub, second, get rid of that scope, it really looks shonky to me and should be on a 22. After the clean, just mount a decent scope and it should be a tack driver. Funnily enough, I'd pick a Tikka over any other brand, including Sako, they just feel so right (personal opinion). Just waiting for my paperwork to turn up so I can bring my TAC A1 (6.5CM) home, lol.
Back in high school mid to late 70’s I began reloading. That is where I learned about process variation and the meaning of process control.
I have my dad's Ithaca LSA65 in .30 06. I understand they were made by Tikka for Ithaca. I shoot 1 MOA groups with handloads using Hornady bullets. Great gun. I'd rather have my dad though.
My old man will mention firearms and items that are going to me and my siblings from time to time. I always tell him to stick around and keep his gear. I'll be good with that.
So I feel you on that front.
@@mot0rhe4d40 People often don't realize how important their parents are until it's too late to do anything about it. It's been 37 years since I lost my dad and there's hardly a day when I don't get a reminder or otherwise think of him. My mom too.
They leave us too soon.
@@joewoodchuck3824
"Get to know your parents; you never know when they'll be gone for good" ~ Baz Luhrmann
Yes. Me too.
The Tikka T3 Lite 30-06 I gave my son for his college graduation was guaranteed by the manufacturer to be MOA out of the box. Well it was, and it didn't have the ejection problem this one did luckily. My biggest complaint was the worthless recoil pad they put on it, but a new Limbsaver cured that problem. Your relative's rifle is certainly a solid enough rifle for hunting, though I have no idea why anybody would feel the need to have a cumbersome bi-pod on a hunting rifle. I wish him luck with it.
I own Tikkas in various calibers. They shoot lights out. I’m not a big fan of scrubbing with bronze brushes, but not knowing how this rifle was shot in the past, I’d give it a deep cleaning. Secondly, I’d check the torque on the action screws. My Tikka T3s tend to like 40 inch pounds at the rear and 35 inch pounds at the front.
Frank B. Albaijés well said .i have had the same experience. If you purchase a Tikka your buying accuracy.
@@leeeng478 - I got the replacement steel recoil lugs from Tikka. I believe they were $20. Supposedly, this is more of an issue on Magnum calibers, then say a 243 or 6.5. Replacing the lugs on the synthetic stocks is easy, not so much the case on wood.
Col. Townsend Whelen said, "The .30-'06 is never a mistake."
Isint that the last thing he said before he was mauled to death by the grizzley bear he shot with that 30-06?
Yeah. Grizzly hunting at 84.😂
One thing I did not see you mention to check would be any contact of the barrel to anything along the barrel channel. Any contact on the barrel will affect barrel vibrations and accuracy. Free float the barrel will give you better accuracy.
My T3x CTR 260 Rem is the most consistently accurate factory rifle I have ever had.
Regarding ejection, it does sling the spent case out like lightning but it's not Savage slow either. Very smooth bolt.
Check the scope. Maybe a janky reticle and something is shaky in there.
The 11 twist is typically better for 168 to 175 grain bullets.
Personally ,I would lower the ring height first. True the rings and level the scope. Check crown, float check, torque screws to spec. Match grain bullet to barrel twist. Then shoot.
Excuse me paul moss, the guy has no scope mounted, and there are no sights on the rifle. Not that your advice would be wrong but sometimes you have to believe your lying eyes.
@@o5245607 What video did you watch?
Ive never had a tikka, always heard good things about them. I have haf several 06's my favorite being my howa 1500. I get sub moa with factory 150 grain blue box federal ammo . I wouldn't think that a tikka, with their reputation would be all over the place like this, it's got to be something simple easily overlooked
I've got a howa 1500 as well and I've only just discovered the 150 grain blue box federal (powershok's) recently myself! Good load for this gun.
Mines the fluted barrel model, I'm chasing a walnut stock for it though as the black rubber stock that it came with I can no longer handle 😅
Everybody raves about Tikkas but i’m not a fan. Good triggers but that’s it based on my experience. Maybe I’ve just gotten lemons. In Europe they’re much cheaper than over here because of import costs and seen as an okay budget option, the way we view a TC compass or Savage axis. Just like those some are tack drivers but it’s luck of the draw. I have given up on trying to make a bad one shoot, there’s just too many good options for the same price or less (like the Ruger American). I’ll be glued to this none the less, I’m rooting for ya brother!
exactly
I bought a brand new Tikka M55 Standard .243win in Australia back in 1990 that shot 2.5 to 3 inch groups at 100 Yards with 100 grain Winchester Power Point bullets , but with Winchester Supreme 100 grain BTHP it Shot 3/4 inch @ 100 Yards and 1/2 Moa ( 1inch groups) at 200 Yards . The bolt on that rifle was silky smooth and the trigger broke like a glass rod . I regret trading it in 3 years ago to buy another rifle .
Thanks for commenting Jim! I believe it. I am sure to some extent the scope is what is going to be the limiting factor for this project. I may take it off but its not mine. I can say at this point everything is tight and 1 MOA groups aren't going to be any trouble for this rifle in this configuration. I do hope I get some feedback about the ejector spring. The biggest downside I see is the lack of in stock replacement parts. you can't buy just one spring and the whole kit is $73 and back ordered. That's a bad day if need it now. But Hey maybe they never break.
Jacques from Margate in South Africa we work in mm here and I am also in the process of moving the bullet closer to the Lance. I have a 3006 Musgrave and use 165gr Hornady SST also 1/11 twist very interested in your findings please can we communicate in the future thank.
Great idea for a video series. I am looking forward to them all.
Tikka makes some nice rifles.
Ons the tikka with a 1:11 twist i find 165gr ammo shoots the best at 2750ft/s. 1/2moa groups. 1mm from the lands
i have one and get .75" groups at 150 yards. best gun i have ever owned. Barrels made by sako.
Sweet, first. Good ol 30-06.
I had a Tikka T3 in 300 Win Short Mag. It would put the first two shots from a clean cold barrel to touching at point of aim. Third shot was usually 3/4 inch away. That was with Winchester Supreme150 gr ballistic tips. That gun was stolen. I have a T3 in 6.5x55 that shoots any ammo I have tried to 1 MOA for 3 shots as guaranteed. Even Priv and S&B. Both rifles are left handed. The 6.5x55 has a long freebore.
I would start by changing to a good known scope and retest your ammo. I have had several clunker scopes in the last 10 years. Even a brand new Nikon that was not cheap.
I have the exact same gun since the day it was brand new it don't throw brass very far. I think it's just the design of the gun. I shoot 150 grain than mine is extremely accurate.
Check out the Forster Datum Dial. It’s a step up from the Hornady tools.
I have a Tikka t3 lite in 30-06, 1 inch groups at 100 yards with blue box 150 grain. Love this gun
what exact ammunition are you using to accomplish 1" groups? I am asking because I just purchased a Tikka T3 Lite in 30-06. What "Blue Box" are you referring to? Thanks
@@CRD-hi6vk blue box is Federal, basic retail.
Betting on the 175 Gn Sierra. Use 40 ish grains of Reloder 15. Very jump tolerant bullet. My experience with Tikka is very positive.
That's like a 308 load. Add 10 grains to that and you're closer to a 30-06 load
@@ryridesmotox My old Lee data 8-14-96 says for a 180 Gn Jacketed 42.7 as a starting load and 48.3 Max @ 3.250. My lower (ish) loads are very accurate.
@@daviddale3624 the alliant website shows 47 to start with a 200gr and 52 for a 150. I'm sure it is a nice wide node in that range. Just seems kinda wasteful to have such a big case and not use it haha.
I have loaded up 46 gr of IMR4064 in my 308 Jag cases with no pressure signs. But that's as much as I could get in there.
@@daviddale3624 48 gr. reloads 180 hot core here shoot right on
Check the barrel to see if its full floating. Should be abke to slide a dollar bill inbetween the barrel and the stock, all the way down the barrel. Might need to sand the stock down a little bit. I also notice that newer Remington rifles tend to dribble empty cases out of the rifle rather than a firm eject, so perhaps thats an industry standard.
On the extraction problem, there was a small ball bearing in front of that spring, right
Heres the short cut for 3006 that needs to be accurat enough for anything from rock chucks at 400 yards or deer out to 300 yards
150 grain sierra pro hunter seated reasonably close to the lands.
50 graind 4064
Large rifle standard primer.
Probably the most universal 06 load in existance
Proven in multitudes of rifles.
Most vital aspect is getting close the the lands ,15 to 30 tho.
Did you checked the stock screws to make sure they were tight before shooting it ? I’m surprised it shoot those groups , Tikka rifles are known for their accuracy. It’s well worth it to try premium quality ammunition in these rifles . You might be able to put a Sako extractor on the Tikka . I have no doubt that with the quality of bullets you will be handloading you will be getting groups in between 3/4 inch to 1.2 inch at 100 Yards no problem which is great accuracy from a stock standard sporting/hunting rifle .
What program do you use to measure groups?
3:49 Barrel length is messured from the bolt face? Isn't it measured from the start of the rifling?
From what I know it starts at the bolt face twist rate is from the the start of the riflling to 10 inches
@@buckhenderson1788 thx. Here barrel lenght is from the start of the rifling
Glad that it's working out for you, but I will stick to my Savages. Really like the barrel nut for making each 110/111 a multi-cal platform.
I like also. Have old ones and .50 ML, and an old lefty fancy model .
As a lefty, I've come to really appreciate the attention Savage has paid to the LH segment of the market, which has made me a VERY loyal Savage customer. I have two old pre-accu-trigger Savage 110s, one in .308 and one in 30-06, and both have nice wood stocks and shoot quite well.
i have m690 - 30 06, redfield revolution scope 3-9x40 and i shoot 20mm at 200 meters with norma diamond target
0:01 Holy height over bore Batman!!
Thanks, should be a good series to watch.
Honestly, the first thing I would do is put a better scope on it with lower rings and see if that doesn’t make a significant difference. Then start reloading from there. Hard to get high quality groups with a low quality scope. I’m not trying to be a jerk, but from the video it appears to be an older scope and the rings are pretty stinking high haha.
If it was mine, it would have had a new scope to start with. It will be a limiting factor IMO as well but goal set is under an MOA and I think we are not going to have any trouble, even with the scope. Believe it or not the scope height is perfect with my check weld though.
Bolt Action Reloading obviously everyone’s cheek weld is different. I just point that out, because that would not even allow me to look through the scope for me with a proper cheek weld. We all have different faces though! 😂
Its a HUNTING rifle, not a heavy barrel benchrest rifle there Elroy. A 3" group at 150 yards is totally acceptable for hunting as long as the point of impact is center target, not 6" to the side. A consistent powder charge that gives no more than a 10 fps velocity spread will do more than any one other thing to tighten groups. Throw that bipod over the hill for a hunting rifle,...useless clutter junk.
3 inches at 150 is hot garbage for modern day rifles. Something is wrong.
Is there a reason you use the .400 comparison body and not the .375 to make the bump measurement?
My Howa 30/06 shoots lights out. My 308 Howa does the same. My 243 Howa doesn't care if it's Remington or winchester 100 grain softpoints. My vanguard 300 win mag does its best with 180 grain winchester power points.
Every single one of these rifles are extremely accurate. No way in hell will I ever part with my rifles. Crazy accurate, but so is my Ruger American in 308.
Don't want or care for anything else.
Make sure your scope is secure, more often than not that's the culprit when you get large group's.
Three rounds will give you three 2-round groups, but four rounds will give you six 2-round groups. Twice as many groups for just one more round. Any hunter will tell you 2-round groups are important. Any real hunter will tell you 1-round groups are the most important.
Treat every shot as your only shot. It's the genesis of the accuracy mindset.
What?
Years ago I found a couple boxes of Remington Accelerator in 30.06. They were a 223 sabot in the 30 cal brass. anyone else ever find this? How did yours shoot? I also saw that sabot in 30.30 once
The accelerators that I shot were like crap. About 4 MOA out of a 1-10 barrel of a 300 WIN MAG. But I can’t complain, because I got them as a close out for 100 for $1.50. Oh well, I still have quite a few of those projectiles but I won’t load them up in anything that “I” have unless I just happen to run across a rifle for a screeming good deal. Even then I it needs to be a 1-13ish barrel.
CBTO= Cartridge Base to Ogive, COAL = Cartridge Overall Length
It's "COL." Cartridge Overall Length. Overall is one word in this usage, not Over All.
@@barrygrant2907 Barnes manual uses COAL and Nosler uses OACL, go figure?
30 - 06 is my best
You can never have a scope like that on a gun like that
Why not glass bed the action/recoil lug?
@@leeeng478 Another upgrade is to replace the plastic trigger guard with bottom metal so a greater and more consistent torque is possible.
Want to be so accurate it is boring? Simple: Get yourself a Winchester M70 30-06 with a good barrel, and load some custom handloads with Hornady A-Max 168-grain or some of those 168-grain ELD-M pills. Use IMR-4064 and some match-grade primers, and you're off and running. Do some load development and testing, and you should be able to develop a load capable of shooting sub-0.5 moa all day long.
AT the video 8:25min mark, The brass cleared the reciever,
with weak bolt force. Wa La, it is fine. I reload them.
So, the distance off the lands looks like the main reason for lack of accuracy?
Certainly a contributing factor.
Yet with older mauser rifles it's impossible to load close to them. The throats is just so dam long, but man are they accurate!
Superdude70 Nice. I haven't got a scope on my 6.5x55, so I have no idea exactly how accurate it is, but judging from how well I shoot it, I'm guessing pretty well.
My 8mm on the other hand, is a beaten, rusted, sporterized with the worst ever stock, yet I can get less than 1 moa out of it, and they're both being seated as long as I dare for the mag. I don't think they really care that much.
My tikka likes 200gr Sierra gkg 53.5 w760 or game kng 180 h 4350 55.5 try them loads shoots like stinks
How about bedding the action and floating the barrel?
Hi Joe, this is already free floated from the factory. If you want to see where I was able to get to with this you can check out this video ua-cam.com/video/53G1Tl9bmLk/v-deo.html
Yikes trying to find accuracy with that ammo on the table just won’t be possible LOL.
Hi! I don't know if it's been verified already and this is just an unresearched guess but about the ejection of the brass, here's my thought... I know when I bought my t3x they were heavily advertising their new ejection design and how you would never get a sideway brass stuck anymore, so if this rifle is older than when the t3x went out, it's possible that is was normal for earlier models to have trouble with ejection. But again I might be wrong. Though, if anyone knows you are more than welcome to correct me. Have a good day and keep em coming! I love your videos.
Simon Lauzon I believe I read somewhere the ejection port was enlarged for easier loading of single rounds directly into the chamber.
Thank you for the millimeters :)
Making a comment about how the gun through the brass out of rejected the brass. I would prefer the gun not to throw the brass 10 ft away from me when I pull the bolt back cuz I do say the brass and I reload. If I'm out in the woods and I'm shooting at a deal I will not know where the brass goes. If the gun throws at 10 12 feet away, I before to drop it at my feet the same with my shotguns
The Lob of the 06 is it's limitation .
Some people could shoot better groups if they went to the eye Dr.
One in 10" twist is standard for this caliber. You keep the Tika. I'll keep my Winchester 70. LOL.
since when are mm less standard then inches
If you are in the US. Its called "Metric" and "Standard". I realize that to most of the world uses metric as their standard size but that is what it is called here.
The first thing you should do to improve accuracy is take that Mopar sign off the wall put a Ford sign up there!
When you see a Ford sign hanging is when you know its not me at the bench. 😉
Bloody nice rifle you have there. First things first, give the bore a bloody good scrub, second, get rid of that scope, it really looks shonky to me and should be on a 22.
After the clean, just mount a decent scope and it should be a tack driver.
Funnily enough, I'd pick a Tikka over any other brand, including Sako, they just feel so right (personal opinion).
Just waiting for my paperwork to turn up so I can bring my TAC A1 (6.5CM) home, lol.
Tikka is made by Saks.
180 gr Speer and IMR 4350. You're welcome.
Tikka a are tack drivers. Clean the bore properly and swap out the scope. Scope looks like a toy and not to robust?????
i really prefer 5rnd groups
WELL, THE TIKKA WITH ITS DIAMOND LAPPED BARREL IS ALREADY SUPER ACCURATE RIFLE!!!😉👉
1 and 11 twist rate... lol, think we found our problem
Non-the-less, a very well put together video...just, bro, that twist rate lol!!!
55.0 of IMR 4350
180 Nosler Part
Fed 210 M primer
FC case
Lower the scope use low rings with that scope
Your problem is that herters ammo bro
Of all the factory I used in it, Herters was one of the best performers, so think what you like.
@@BoltActionReloading well I guess whatever works the best for you. Keep shooting and have fun
Bedding , firing pin protrusion and crown need to be checked as well as the scope holding zero. Tikka should shoot much better than that.
That looks like a cheap scope.
Wtf were u shooting to get ridiculous accuracy as bad as that with a Tikka?!?!
Nope don't care about millimeters
Go to bitchute, and I'll subscribe.
OMG...too much talking