Honda CR-V Misfiring. Valve Lash Adjustment, fixed! Part 2
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- My new to me Honda CR-V has a misfire codes and random misfire codes so today I'm trying to adjust the valve lash.
read online into the issue and could be caused by tight exhaust valves so I will have to adjust the valves and worst case is my exhaust valve is burnt requiring a new rebuilt head but hopefully it's not that far gone yet!
luckily in this video it was only the valves being too tight on both intake and exhaust sides and loosening them up fixed my problem!
Great video. I would suggest checking them before ya loosin. All the valves won't be off. I have found usually the exhaust valves tighten the most. But there may only be a few that are off. This is a back breaker job. So the less ya have to do the better.
Hello, once the valves go out of spec the burn out very easy so do the seats this is a trait of the B20Z1 engin.
Cool video man. Very interesting. Taking all of us thru your journey of fixing the rd1. I have an Rd1 MT AWD. Mine turns on perfect in the morning cold, but would stall out and turn off completely under normal temperature and when I would come to a complete stop. Then it wouldn't start until maybe 20 or 30 min later till the Motor cooled down. I changed the IAC, distributor and main relay so far today. I changed IAC first and still had that problem. Today I changed the distributer and main relay but have not test driven it. I'll probably test drive next weekend or tomorrow. Had it on for almost 2 hours and was just revving engine here and there. But have not test driven it yet.
Thanks for watching.
Are there any check engine codes that come up?
Just a little info for you. The B20 engine had a known common problem of the exhaust valves eating the seats. As far as i know it is the only Honda engine to do it. Many Honda techs have said that Honda had them doing valve adjustments every 15-30k miles at the dealerships after people bought them new. My 99 CRV currently has basically no exhaust seats on cylinder 1. When I got it in a trade a year or so back it had a bad misfire. Come to find out, when I did the valve adjustment, the valves are all over the place on the specs. Cylinder 1 exhaust side wouldn't even hardly adjust. I put my borescope down the cylinder and hit the side camera to see what the seat looked like and i saw the valves up in head a little too far, So I've just sent it like that until i can swap the head out.
Yeah man I've come to figure out this common problem but my car was probably still way too early to do any real damages.
I saw on ebay you can buy refurbished heads for around $500 so it's not too expensive
Great video. Thanks for putting it together. I have a 2001 with 160k miles. I don't think i saw you check the clearance before loosening the locking nut and adjusting the clearance. Do you, in fact, check the existing clearance first? Is the problem that the clearance grows over time or shrinks? Also, about how sensitive is clearance to the rotation of the center screw. I can imagine it would be difficult to hold the center screw perfectly in place while adequately tightening the locking nut. If it moves a few degrees, is that going to change the significantly change the clearance? Is there a specific torque setting for the locking nut? Thanks.
You can check the clearances before you start but I was already doing this job so no need to check beforehand unless that's all you're doing is checking to see if you need them adjusted. When I checked them in the video all of my exhaust valves were all too tight, over time they get tighter on this car which is a common problem. It could get as bad as burning a valve because it is too tight! You can tighten the locknut down and recheck your clearances afterwards it is a little sensitive, but you'll start to get the hang of it after doing a few valves.
Torque specs for the locknut is 18lb-ft
i have a 1998 CRV and i calibrated the intake to .010 and the exhaust to 0.18 and the they were noisy , any recommendations
Naturally these engines are a bit noisy, but you can go a tad bit tighter on your valves and it should be quieter if not then maybe your valve seats are already too worn.
@@accordinglytuned7172 i appreciate your help thank you very much
I have the same problem, check engine light flashing, after i cleared the codes, and start the car and drive for one block, i dont know, if that was a coincidence or not, but the car running fine, no misfire symptops at all. Shifting accelerating very good, everythumg is.new like less than a.month: spark.plug and spark plug wires, cap rotor, coil, ignitor, i had this problem before two years ago after instart the engine, the car was chaking a lot, and the check engine light start flashing, that understandable, not this time.
Yeah I found out that it's normal after you clear the codes and drive a little bit and it'll go away! Everything has been running good ever since I did the valve lash!
Any updates on the crv after the adjustment and did the check engine light flashing go away? I'm have a misfire also...changed the plug and wires, new valve cover gasket. My flashing light comes on sometimes but when turned the car off....it goes away then does the same thing over again but the car drives fine besides shaking engine at idol. Checked the fuel injectors with a flat head and I could hear them clicking.. my crv's got 265,000 miles.... I'm thinking I might need to adjust the valves.. ?
Yup the check engine light clears after you drive it a little bit, I haven't had it on since then! It drives so nice now! It's just the valve train will be a little noisy because the valves are looser but it's better for the engine.
Thanks for not showing the direction of the crankshaft turning and the TDC marks lined up 👍. Fire yourself as a Teacher.
Feel better? Guy produces a video for free and your first thought is he's a terrible teacher?
Sorry, did you pay him for this? No.
Miserable little troll.