Replacing anode rod for Rheem Water heater tank
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Replacing anode rod for a 40 gallons Rheem Water heater tank to prolong its life.
Anode Rod kit link for reference:
www.amazon.com...
#anode #rod #Rheem #water #heater #tank #replacement
Anode Rod is very important and what makes your water tank last!
which year was the rheem water heater? what was the environment? using well water with salt softener? just wondering
@@ipfreak tank mfg in 2014 so roughly 9 yrs old. On city municipal water so pretty decent 🤞 😂. So it is pretty much the life of the anode. Thanks for the comment! 👍
I used the same procedure and utilized my new Ryobi 18 volt impact wrench that has up to 600 torque lbs. Loosened it in seconds.. Replaced with the segmented anode rod. No leaks. Everything worked out great.
Awesome 👍😎
@@loumitch1 glad it worked for you. I used the same wrench and it wouldn’t move. I have loosened mower blades and other torqued on nuts with ease. Not on this water heater though.
Be sure you turn off water open faucets to release pressure and open safety relief just to be sure there’s no pressure in tank!
Thanks for the video. I have a AO Smith from 2015 and I have tried many times with a 1/2” impact hammer to loosen the anode. I have released the pressure. The drain valve is a plastic junky valve (probably from a big box store). I am about to replace the whole blooming thing. Tomorrow I will try one more time and if that fails, I may call a plumber and have it replaced. I am afraid of hammering on the anode too much where I might damage the glass or whatever is in the tank insulating the main tank. I am not a plumber, just a home owner trying to make things work. All the best!
I went down the same road - needed to use impact wrench to get the old one out, and the old rod was completely gone in my case as well.
Thanks for the feedback 👍🙏
It’s corroding because there is no transition from the steel pipe to the copper pipe. You need to put in each one a dielectric Union, also call transition Union between steel and copper two different metals
Thank you for the feedback and suggestion. I am planning on replacing them using kit: SharkBite 18-in 3/4-in Push Inlet x 3/4-in FIP Outlet Corrugated Stainless Steel Water Heater Connector.
Item #1288489 | Model #24680Z
Are you able to tag a video explaining what you said? I replaced my water heater recently and have installed water filtration before my water softener now I just need to replace anode rods but what you said about transition unions sounds interesting. I’m big on water filtration. Thanks in advance
@@danielduran3265 Hi, here is a link to a good video which I also posted in the community page: ua-cam.com/video/fWz1it0AyRQ/v-deo.htmlsi=j7Yh589DJf03VQEn
Hope it will help, good lucks with your project!
Really a great tip and advise! Emergency replacing water heater tank is costly and headach on rental house! Thanks 😍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment!
Great job, you may also want to write on the tank the date you replaced the rod.
Thanks for the reminder as I thought of needing to do that! 👍
These manufacturers don't give a damn about their customers. There is no reasonable reason for them to tighten the anode rod so tight and fill the hole with foam knowing that the anode rod must removed at least once a year. In 2023 I purchased a A.O. Smith 50 gallon electric water and two months after installation the cheap looking plastic drain valve started dripping water and I could not get it to stop si I had to put a cup under the drain valve which I had to empty every day. Due to warranty guidelines I had to flush the water heater and check the anode rod. I got everything done and decided to replace the cheap looking plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve. The plastic valve promptly broke and warranty does not cover breakage so I had to buy a replacement water heater. The second A.O.Smith water heater at ten months started to trip the breaker . I called the company and they said I need to change the heating elements. The problem is the cheap looking plastic valve would not drain so I released as much water from the pressure valve which is not much. Lucky for me the water heater is in the garage so I had to take out the lower heating element releasing about forty gallons of water flooding the garage. I replaced both heating elements which was badly rusted after just ten months. I have to add that I am not on well water but city water which is pretty decent. I tried to take out the anode rod but it would not budge even with a full tank of water and a four foot extension bar. I called a water heater company and even with a compressor the anode rod would not budge. They took one look at the drain valve and would not touch it. A.O.Smith told me if using a compressor would not get the anode rod out then it's not coming out. They want to sell me an anode rod that is made on to the 11:59 hot water pipe for me $120.00. The problem is I still have a plastic drain valve that even the professionals won't touch. So I am just going to keep using it until it dies. Lesson learned? Never buy a water heater in withva plastic valve.
😫thanks for feedback and very sorry for what you had to go through 🤞🙏
What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top
Thanks for the comment! Yes, should cover it with any type of insulation to avoid sweating 👍
It is not advisable to completely cover all the threads of the anode, just part of the treads is enough to make a water tight seal. The reason is you need conductivity between the rod nut and the tank for the electrolysis connection, so the anode can do its job. You should have less than 1Ω resistance between the anode nut and the tank frame. You can check that with a good multimeter.
The rod is one electrode of an electrochemical cell with the steel tank being the other electrode. The two electrodes must be connected so that electrons can flow from the rod to the tank enabling the rod to sacrificially protect the tank from corrosion
Thank you for your feedback comment, good point! 👍🙂
Two comments - your way too late on the rod replacement realistically it's eaten the tank as well, you probably don't have much longer until a leak develops, but it's good info for the future. Replace the rod every 3-5 years, and it's nice to see someone using an actual impact socket on an impact wrench instead of a chrome hand socket for once! 👍👍
Thanks for the feedback and very good point! At this point I do hope it lasts as long as it could 🤞. Great day friend!🙂
I would recomend you replace the copper leading into the tank
Thanks for the comment! Will eventually be taking care of that 👍.
Great vid... thank you Sir!
Thanks!
You're learning grasshopper just take your time you'll get it done
You got it 😉! Thanks for the comment! 😊
You have still ways to go before learning how to communicate well enough…good luck on that based on your attitude? 😊
Wow, I saw comment about changing the anode rod every few years to keep your cheap crap 6 years tank last forever. But for regular folks, I guess just pay the extra 300 bucks to get the 12 years tank and call it a day. In 12 years, just get a new 12 tank and call it another day.
Very good diy ❤
Thanks and certainly will do this again on the main home soon! 😊
Just an fyi... before you do anything you should remove 2-3 gallons so it won't overflow at the opening. :)
Agree, Thanks Brian for the feedback!
Corro- Protec has an electric anode rod with a 20yr warranty.
You should’ve installed it considering that’s an electric tank!
Just need to ad an outlet on the wall to plug it in.
Thanks, I did heard about that and might consider it the next round 🧐 😂. Have a Merry Christmas 🎄🎁🎉
Rheem intended to prevent this maintenance
👍 thank you for the comment!
@@tick_go5989 I have a rheem electric. Expansion tank right over anode. Breaker bar spins tank. No room for impact driver
@@flapoverspeedughh, that’s not good! Is it copper pipe that you could unsolder? Or spin off the tank perhaps? Just some thoughts!
I relate, I'm working on my dads that we put in about 7 yrs ago and of course ran into all these stupid hindrances to ease of replacement of anode.
The anode position is directly under the flue pipe. Lol!
Of course! How many different ways can there be a problem to slow this all down.
And then the water heater is turned in a way so the anode access is against the chimney side UNDER the flue pipe, so I have to remove the flue pipe and then have a ladder where I don't have room for one as the wat.heat. is set up on a 12" concrete riser.
I didn't even know about this anode replacement was a thing until just two days ago.lol
I had some intuitive idea for some reason to look up water heater maintenance.
@@d.aardent9382 Thanks for the feedback and sorry for all the issues you had to face 😫 🙏
Your biggest problem may be electrical gear 8" from water heater if thats what I am seeing.
Thanks for your feedback but I am unsure of the electrical gear you referred to 🤔
Start watching at 4:00 mark but there are better videos out there to watch. No reason why it is 26 minutes long.
Made not to be easily repaired.
Yes indeed as manufacturer would rather us buy new tank. Thanks!
No need to drain any water out?
Hi, once the anode rod has been replaced then definitely drain the water out 👍🙂
Would you have to flush the heater as well I've heard you don't have to for most cases
Yes, I would definitely recommend to flush as lots of rust and sediment from the anode dissolved. You might have to use some thin stick to unclog the drain valve so the water can come out. Thanks for the comment!
@@tick_go5989 thanks a lot I will do so
The tank drained so slowly because of suction. Next time open a faucet in the house and the tank will drain fast.
Thanks MrSocko 👍! In my case it was the heavy sediment buildup clogged the drain valve. Have a Merry Christmas 🎁🎄!
Not the problem here...the tank was vented at the opening of the anode rod.
@@dmob84 👍 Thanks!
How old is the water heater, and what kind of water conditions do you have????
The water heater is about 9 year old on city’s water so fairly good. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the response.@@tick_go5989
Alot of time waisted, plan ahead of what to do and say
Thanks for the feedback! Have a great successful New Year! 🎆🎉👍
Don't forget to floss