When I opened where the Anode said it was suppose to be from the Water Heater Manuel all I saw was foam, I was like wtf. Nothing in the Manuel prepares you for that or anything else for that matter, I immediately came to UA-cam and found this video. Thanks for filling in the picture that the manufacture forgets to mention'
Thank you, Rick, for showing me that there is hope for me to find the hex head below the foam. I used a pocket knife first, and then a screwdriver and shop vac to neatly get rid of the styrofoam. Walmart owes you a commission - I bought a corded electric Hyper Tough impact wrench to remove mine, and it was worth $45 for sure, even though I left water in my heater, I didn't want to come close to the effort that you put in!!!
For those without an impact, this worked for me on a 19 year old tank: 1- spray anode head and its visible threads with wd-40 2- leave for a few hours 3- using the appropriate socket with a non-ratchet bar (or with a ratchet has a "middle" setting that allows it to torque in either direction), give the bar a few good raps with a heavy hammer in the undo direction.
Thanks for the video... Correct me if I'm wrong, but what this shows me is that Rheem doesn't really want the anode rods replaced so the water heater will corrode and leak sooner, forcing customers to buy a new one.
You know what they say.. demo is always the worst part of the job. Years of gunk, rust, etc is tough to remove and undo. Spaces are tight, things corroded, dirty.
I was under the impression that the inside of these hot water heaters are glass, and that once they get some years on them, if you treat them this roughly, the glass can fail. True? Not true? I have a XG75T06ST76U0 that is just over 8 years old and has never had the anode rod(s) replaced, nor has it been drained. Should I do the rod(s) first then drain and refill? Also, is there only one rod, or several, as I see multiple plastic plugs on top? Thank you!
Yeah, when trying to loosen anything factory on a water heater, it definitely helps to have it full of water. Good point on the six sided socket. Don't use twelve point or you can strip the anode bolt. And of course, being careful, an impact can be very helpful.
I had a plumber come out last week to replace the leaking thermal expansion tank on my 75 gallon Rheem hot water heater that was manufactured in November of 2014, so it has been installed for about 8 1/2 years. It has never been drained or had the anode rod replaced. There is some rust at the top of the cold water connection and he said there was some around where the plastic plug is at the anode location in the back of the heater (not the best place to locate it - would have to remove the gas vent to access it). Having never been services, I asked if I should replace the anode rod and drain the hwh especially since I've already purchased the 42" replacement anode rod. He said I should not as it might be impossible to reseal the new anode rod. He also advised against draining it as the plastic valve at the bottom is known to fail. What is y'alls experience and recommendation? Ride it out until it fails...whenever that is, or risk servicing it and it possibly failing immediately?
Personally I would carefully drain the heater, remove the plastic drain valve and then remove the anode rod and install the new one. pipe dope and/or teflon the pipe threads and you'll be fine. as far as how much life is left in that heater is anyones guess.
@@rickpowell1402 Well, I had no problem draining it, but was completely unable to get the old anode tube, or what's left of it, out. The top of the hex part was completely rusted and despite soaking it in several coatings of penetrating spray for a few hours, and then using a 2' breaker bar, the best I could do was get the socket to slip. I've seen somewhere where they recommended an impact wrench and I believe that's sound advice so that the torque is evenly split across all six sides of the hex head of the anode rod. What was interesting otherwise was that when I drained it, I saw ZERO sediment come out despite draining the entire thing and even running the cold water a bit at the end and draining it a bit more. I expected more junk as I don't have a water softener or treatment system. Just straight city water, and it's pretty hard water.
That is not true about the valve at the bottom of the tank. You can drain it twice a year if you want to. Just remember to cut off the cold water valve coming into the tank and turn off the breaker to power the heater and open up the pressure release valve. Also open hot water in faucets and showers to clear out the vacume in the hot water lines.
It's getting hard to trust " experts " these days. My AC guy told me I needed a UV light to kill mold-$1200,I installed it for $65. I took a flat tire to Tire Kingdom, told " it can't be repaired, it's longer than 3/8" ! You need a new tire, $280 out the door ! ". I had a plumber change out an outside faucet and associated hardware ( worth less than $50 ). It took him all of 15 minutes and he charged me $550. I love YT.
Got a Rheem hot water heater installed a little over a year ago and the hot water has smelled nasty ever since. Cold water is fine. Does the anode rod come installed from the factory or did they forget to put one in? Tradesmen where I live are mostly idiots.
I know it’s been a while save you posted but the reason for the smell is that your water isn’t hot enough.. had that experience, turned it up and it all went away.
We removed our anode on our Rheem Gladiator and replaced it yesterday. Dug out the factory foam. After new anode was in we noticed two small wires in the foam inside the anode hole. One was a severed black wire like as if I did it digging the foam out. Heater seems to work fine though. You ever seen that before?
Man thank you. I have a BRAND NEW Rheem water heater and it seems to be leaking at the anode rod. Gonna take it out tape of the thread and pipe dope it. Sucks that this will be much easier to do than calling the 1800 number.
They obviously don't build 'em like they used to then. My Rheem lasted from 2004 to 2023 (19 years) before leaking. It might have helped though that I followed someone's advice for tank longetivity when I fitted it, and turned the thermostat down to minimum (74 deg. F, if I remember correctly)
Hi, neat. Ur new subscriber.... My Platinum Rheem is a 2017, too. How do u know when the anode needs r&r? Would my Plat have the same decay rate as ur standard in ur informative video? Thanx, Mike in GA.
That depends on the water. It’s recommended to check this rod annually. If it looks bad install a new one. Also check on your model and see if it had 2. One in the standard location and one that is part of the outlets side pipe.
Why did you have to change it in the first place? I read somewhere if it is popping and cracking while water is heating up then you have to change it. Thanks
its designed to be sacrificial, popping and such maybe aluminum hydroxide. You'll know if you drain the heater and you see white goop coming out of the drain.
Had the same problem almost immediately with a new install last September. Been living with it since. Wife not too happy. Think I'm going to replace the rod with one of the powered ones. Guess they pretty much take care of the smell. $100 - $150 on Amazon
On the modern units there is a plastic finishing piece attached to the outer shell of the unit. It neatens up the appearance but it makes it impossible to get a standard one and one-sixteenth socket into the hole? Do you need an ultra slim socket? Do you remove the plastic finishing piece?
@@connorgillispie7128 possibly a small amount of heat loss. Will it be noticeable ? Probably not. But you could spray foam it back I when done if it’s a concern.
I have a 5-year-old Rheem gas hot water heater and I am confident its anode rod would never turn with any amount of pounding on a breaker bar as shown here. I tried an electric impact driver that can exert 500 ft-lbs of torque and even that would not loosen the rod. That was after twice soaking the area around the nut with Liquid Wrench overnight! Maybe if I securely tied down the hot water heater with straps so it couldn't turn and used AT LEAST a 3-long cheater bar on my wrench it might turn. But that would require some disassembly of pipes at the top of the heater to gain enough clearance to use the wrench + cheater bar. At this point, I worry I might do more harm than good with more extreme measures. So I guess I let sleeping dogs lie even if that means the lifespan of my hot water heater might be compromised. Personally, I think the technology of how anode rods are installed in a hot water heater is pretty weak considering the number of folks who have substantial problems removing them.
What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top
@@kalvinraw2973 no, if you just drain a few gallons out of the water heater, it makes it much easier. The weight of the water heater will hold the water heater in place and allow you to get some more leverage on that and to get it out. But I would recommend using an impact it makes things very easy. This was just a video demonstrating that even in difficult situations. They will come out. I don’t recommend doing what I did in this video.
@@rickpowell1402 ...usually, yes....a "bit", like maybe 1 gallon, maybe 2. Why?....the anode rod you take out may be totally gone...and the displacement of the new rod will take up water volume and will overflow a full tank as you put that in.
This is probably more "realistic" to what the average homeowner experiences. All these videos that show just removing the plastic cap and putting a wrench on it and turning it to get the old rod out. Then our experience is more like this one.
I have a hybrid water heater and the anode nut is too close to the wall to get any socket around it, tried thin wall, tried other tool for removing anodes in RVs, nothing can get around the nut. Are there any options other than welding something to the nut and turning it?
If you're talking about the plastic retainer cap around the nut, that came right out, oddly enough. I'm talking about with that out, and any excess glue scraped away, the nut is still too close to the wall
@@catwalkcam you’re probably going to need to force the socket on there with force. Use a small piece of 2x4 to Protect the end of your extension and hammer it into place
Thank you for showing the part where you have to dig through the foam to access the damn thing. I knew it was under there, and then i saw the foam which made me second guess myself thinking they put the one thats built into the inlet or outlet nipple. Id be pissed off for sure if i went to unscrewing both of those for no reason . This is a great video. Fuck the haters.
The better way to remove it is just to drain a few gallons of wayer out and the weight of the water heater would keep it in place when removing the anode. Also an impact driver would bw a better choice to loosen the anode.
@@robcook6120 you’ll have the same result on any brand I’ve broken breaker bars on anodes and the heads did not round off. Could be the socket wasn’t seated correctly or it was not within spec.
Id love to be able to dance with mine like that, but its hooked up to plumbing and the power vent. If you had it disconnected why not just lay it on the floor and use a breaker bar? I think half the challenge is keeping it from spinning when it is connected.
So you have to hire a technician, of course! The more accurate answer is that it was designed by an engineer. They don't care how hard things are to work on, only that they work out the door. I guarantee you an actual plumber would have changed this decades ago if they could convince an engineer to dismount his high-horse and listen.
More than the big "lever-arm" ( breaker bar) is needed to loosen the anode rod. Why? .....because a long lever arm exerts nice even force ....and that won't do, It's like driving a nail with a lot of force slowly applied as "pressure". Won't work. The force has to have a short fast rap.....like using an impact wrench...and if you don't have one.....use a breaker bar and then a mallet at the end of the bar..... to "tap /tap / tap" to get such "impulse" force applied....makes a big difference. If you keep 45 gallons of water in the 50 gal tank...that also adds 375 lbs of weight, and helps keep the tank from moving. More....don't just blow the insulation sharf away by blowing at it with your mouth....get a shop vac. You don't want even a small piece if this stuff to enter the tank and then clog some sink aerator or worse.
@@alphaq3427 ...my whole point is that a breaker bar....or any attempt using just force without a "Rap"....risks not being successful. Even a very short adjustable wrench clamped onto the anode hex and then rapped with a hammer at the end of the handle....works better....like this guy had to do ( sorry for the cross-posting)---> ua-cam.com/video/qLzoikQ7gWg/v-deo.html ... at his timeline 7.00 to 7.45. Iif anode hex is recessed the same can be done with a deep socket.
To prove a point. that even with an empty tank and only a socket and ratchet they will come out. Them majority of complaints I deal with regarding anode rods is " I cant get it out" and my answer is try harder.
@@rickpowell1402 yeah my builder put the anode rod on the back side behind pipes was a pita to remove… used a impact wrench and a piece of wire to fish out the rod.
@@kmain0 Thank you, I guess I could have put that in the description. This water heater is already dead and was thrown away for scrap so I decided to abuse it.
@@randallwinters7387 this was a trash water heater. In a warehouse for training. Plumbers are telling me they can’t get the rods out. So. I said ok. I’ll do it with an empty tank and minimal tools to prove a point. They do come out. But no this was not at a house. I don’t act that way at a clients home.
Don't mean to be critical, and maybe this tech is not aware of this, but the overall impression of this video is one of impatience and lack of respect for the equipment involved (there is no need, for example, for banging of the expansion tank to turn the WH inlet nipple). BWT, if one does this for a living, you would think he would have the obvious tool for this, a cordless impact wrench to go with that 1-1/16" deep socket. That approach avoids all the wresting with the WH, is easy on you and easy on the equipment. Because of a similar experience to what we saw here, I had already come to this conclusion and I'm just the average home owner. It's also easier if you can leave most of the water in the WH so it can hold it still for you.
There are some link on UA-cam to help you do this. Don't drain all the water is one idea to give it some weight. Hammer on the Ratchet handle instead of palm.........
the purpose of the video was to show that even with the water tank drain and with minimal tools, you can still force the rod out a lot of people claim they are not able to get the rod out.
Boy, did I waste my time. Pulled the cap on my Rheem gas water heater and dug out the foam only to find the tank, no anode. Hidden behind the heat vent was a large plastic shield that holds the anode. NO FOAM NEEDED TO BE REMOVED.
@@JoshDisher I can sure everyone else that I do not beat the crap out of appliances in their home, but I do try and GET-R-DUN and get out of their way. Thank you for that Josh
@@rickpowell1402 Thanks for the demo. I'm just used to demos going a little slower. Not that there's much to miss when watching an anode rod replacement video.
@@foltz61 1-1/16 6 point socket and an impact will make your life easy. also some brands have the anode rods on the hot water pipe of the heater, so watch out for that.
This is why I don't hire "professional" plumbers.... they are gorillas who are rough with everything, rush, damage things, over charge and deny responsibility for spotty workmanship and collateral damage. Yes an electric impact wrench would help. Breaker bar.... work smart not dumb... Yes having some water in the tank would help.... I just installed my own gas water heater in the attic.
@@rickpowell1402 Guess you did not read my post. You missed my point you are bull in a china shop. If you mean have tank with some water, not always possible. I watched the video and was horrified. Then GET STRAPS and secure it to something or get helper. This is not rocket engineering or brain surgery.. Don't take your aggression out on a poor water heater. Cheers
@rickpowell1402 No I did not miss anything. It was definitely not about finesse or grace, that was clear. That's my point. Regardless of your intented message, you failed. I watched other videos on the subject. Yours was the worst. No offense, please learn fenese, work smart w/ less beat on it technique. Have a Happy New Year.
@@gmcjetpilot mine was the worst? That’s a win. Anyone should either be the best or the worst. No one talks about the mundane middle of the pack. Happy for all your comments. I’ll be abusing water heaters for sure from now on.
Rheem is either tremendously stupid or they are setting up for their installers with special tools. There is a tiny space around the anode rod nut. Way smaller thinner than a standard 1 1/16 socket. THERE IS NO REASON for it to be so difficult. Rheem should be ashamed.
@@chrisklingler5254 don’t need one. Clearly. But seriously I use an impact. This was for the guys that call in and say “I can’t get it out, it’s too tight”.
i love how Rick is showing everyone what it is really like in the field. Great job
When I opened where the Anode said it was suppose to be from the Water Heater Manuel all I saw was foam, I was like wtf. Nothing in the Manuel prepares you for that or anything else for that matter, I immediately came to UA-cam and found this video. Thanks for filling in the picture that the manufacture forgets to mention'
That explains why my hot water stinks ever since i got a new water heater about a year ago. I'll be looking for that foam tomorrow.
Thank you, Rick, for showing me that there is hope for me to find the hex head below the foam. I used a pocket knife first, and then a screwdriver and shop vac to neatly get rid of the styrofoam. Walmart owes you a commission - I bought a corded electric Hyper Tough impact wrench to remove mine, and it was worth $45 for sure, even though I left water in my heater, I didn't want to come close to the effort that you put in!!!
impact drivers works best on these. also having the tank full of water helps. thanks for all of the rheem videos. they are very educational
This was just to prove a point. I get many calls stating the anodes will not come out. A full tank and a breaker bar will make this job easy money.
For those without an impact, this worked for me on a 19 year old tank:
1- spray anode head and its visible threads with wd-40
2- leave for a few hours
3- using the appropriate socket with a non-ratchet bar (or with a ratchet has a "middle" setting that allows it to torque in either direction), give the bar a few good raps with a heavy hammer in the undo direction.
So a impact gun is better... I can't be spinning a tank like that with gas and water hooked up
You mean impact wrench not a driver
Most stressful and aggressive video I’ve ever seen I’ve seen enough
Agreed. Was hoping to learn how not to break things.
I stressed out watching this video.
@@rjames80 same lol
@@troykillman this is a video for guys that can’t get anode rods out due to their purses being to heavy.
@@rickpowell1402you struggled with this thing not even hooked up. Lol
Love how you work. None of this gentle and easy crap. I've got work to do and money to make.
ya, let's not worry about getting insulation into the unit....hint= vacuum cleaner
Thanks for the video... Correct me if I'm wrong, but what this shows me is that Rheem doesn't really want the anode rods replaced so the water heater will corrode and leak sooner, forcing customers to buy a new one.
Thanks for showing that you can busy thru the Styrofoam, everyone else skipped that part so I wasn't sure if that was acceptable.
I wouldn’t trust this guy changing my garden hose …let alone my water heater …. Jesus this was painful to watch
Well this is just perfect. I have a '17 Rheem.
For a Rheem technician he sure is struggling. Lol
Out of shape. Lol
You know what they say.. demo is always the worst part of the job. Years of gunk, rust, etc is tough to remove and undo. Spaces are tight, things corroded, dirty.
I was under the impression that the inside of these hot water heaters are glass, and that once they get some years on them, if you treat them this roughly, the glass can fail. True? Not true? I have a XG75T06ST76U0 that is just over 8 years old and has never had the anode rod(s) replaced, nor has it been drained. Should I do the rod(s) first then drain and refill? Also, is there only one rod, or several, as I see multiple plastic plugs on top? Thank you!
Glass lining more like a ceramic coating. Water will eat away at it fast once anode rod is gone.
The number you listed is the serial number, not the model.
@@Rhizzo that’s the model
@@yellowdog5257 the lining isn’t perfect. The anode will Protect the small amounts of exposed steel.
Thank you- What does that white tank do up top? Is using a impact gun okay on that bolt?
IMPACT driver with a 1 1/6 deep socket....!!!! you did it the hard way.... :)
Yeah, when trying to loosen anything factory on a water heater, it definitely helps to have it full of water. Good point on the six sided socket. Don't use twelve point or you can strip the anode bolt. And of course, being careful, an impact can be very helpful.
I like this guy, with a little bit more cursing this would be very relatable.😂
I had a plumber come out last week to replace the leaking thermal expansion tank on my 75 gallon Rheem hot water heater that was manufactured in November of 2014, so it has been installed for about 8 1/2 years. It has never been drained or had the anode rod replaced. There is some rust at the top of the cold water connection and he said there was some around where the plastic plug is at the anode location in the back of the heater (not the best place to locate it - would have to remove the gas vent to access it). Having never been services, I asked if I should replace the anode rod and drain the hwh especially since I've already purchased the 42" replacement anode rod. He said I should not as it might be impossible to reseal the new anode rod. He also advised against draining it as the plastic valve at the bottom is known to fail. What is y'alls experience and recommendation? Ride it out until it fails...whenever that is, or risk servicing it and it possibly failing immediately?
Personally I would carefully drain the heater, remove the plastic drain valve and then remove the anode rod and install the new one. pipe dope and/or teflon the pipe threads and you'll be fine. as far as how much life is left in that heater is anyones guess.
@@rickpowell1402 Well, I had no problem draining it, but was completely unable to get the old anode tube, or what's left of it, out. The top of the hex part was completely rusted and despite soaking it in several coatings of penetrating spray for a few hours, and then using a 2' breaker bar, the best I could do was get the socket to slip. I've seen somewhere where they recommended an impact wrench and I believe that's sound advice so that the torque is evenly split across all six sides of the hex head of the anode rod. What was interesting otherwise was that when I drained it, I saw ZERO sediment come out despite draining the entire thing and even running the cold water a bit at the end and draining it a bit more. I expected more junk as I don't have a water softener or treatment system. Just straight city water, and it's pretty hard water.
That is not true about the valve at the bottom of the tank. You can drain it twice a year if you want to. Just remember to cut off the cold water valve coming into the tank and turn off the breaker to power the heater and open up the pressure release valve. Also open hot water in faucets and showers to clear out the vacume in the hot water lines.
It's getting hard to trust " experts " these days. My AC guy told me I needed a UV light to kill mold-$1200,I installed it for $65. I took a flat tire to Tire Kingdom, told " it can't be repaired, it's longer than 3/8" ! You need a new tire, $280 out the door ! ". I had a plumber change out an outside faucet and associated hardware ( worth less than $50 ). It took him all of 15 minutes and he charged me $550. I love YT.
@@Rainman270 find a local handy man... AC guy? mold? uv light? what was that needed for? In NY I charge half for this work....
Got a Rheem hot water heater installed a little over a year ago and the hot water has smelled nasty ever since. Cold water is fine. Does the anode rod come installed from the factory or did they forget to put one in? Tradesmen where I live are mostly idiots.
I know it’s been a while save you posted but the reason for the smell is that your water isn’t hot enough.. had that experience, turned it up and it all went away.
We removed our anode on our Rheem Gladiator and replaced it yesterday. Dug out the factory foam. After new anode was in we noticed two small wires in the foam inside the anode hole. One was a severed black wire like as if I did it digging the foam out. Heater seems to work fine though. You ever seen that before?
No, should not be a problem. But I agree that’s odd.
Man thank you. I have a BRAND NEW Rheem water heater and it seems to be leaking at the anode rod. Gonna take it out tape of the thread and pipe dope it. Sucks that this will be much easier to do than calling the 1800 number.
They obviously don't build 'em like they used to then. My Rheem lasted from 2004 to 2023 (19 years) before leaking.
It might have helped though that I followed someone's advice for tank longetivity when I fitted it, and turned the thermostat down to minimum (74 deg. F, if I remember correctly)
@@PartTimeLaowai ...I think minimum of a "water heater"..is 120 degF.
Hi, neat. Ur new subscriber.... My Platinum Rheem is a 2017, too. How do u know when the anode needs r&r? Would my Plat have the same decay rate as ur standard in ur informative video? Thanx, Mike in GA.
That depends on the water. It’s recommended to check this rod annually. If it looks bad install a new one. Also check on your model and see if it had 2. One in the standard location and one that is part of the outlets side pipe.
Why did you have to change it in the first place? I read somewhere if it is popping and cracking while water is heating up then you have to change it. Thanks
its designed to be sacrificial, popping and such maybe aluminum hydroxide. You'll know if you drain the heater and you see white goop coming out of the drain.
makes me nervous, mines a 2017 and i am trying to take the anode rod out.
I have a 2020 model and what smell has showed up after a year... Is there a better, longer lasting rod to replace it with?
Had the same problem almost immediately with a new install last September. Been living with it since. Wife not too happy. Think I'm going to replace the rod with one of the powered ones. Guess they pretty much take care of the smell. $100 - $150 on Amazon
@@gw5309 I heard that magnesium rods don't smell as much as aluminum ones
On the modern units there is a plastic finishing piece attached to the outer shell of the unit. It neatens up the appearance but it makes it impossible to get a standard one and one-sixteenth socket into the hole? Do you need an ultra slim socket?
Do you remove the plastic finishing piece?
Remove it if it’s in the way.
How will removing the insulation affect the water heater?
@@connorgillispie7128 possibly a small amount of heat loss. Will it be noticeable ? Probably not. But you could spray foam it back I when done if it’s a concern.
I have a 5-year-old Rheem gas hot water heater and I am confident its anode rod would never turn with any amount of pounding on a breaker bar as shown here. I tried an electric impact driver that can exert 500 ft-lbs of torque and even that would not loosen the rod. That was after twice soaking the area around the nut with Liquid Wrench overnight! Maybe if I securely tied down the hot water heater with straps so it couldn't turn and used AT LEAST a 3-long cheater bar on my wrench it might turn. But that would require some disassembly of pipes at the top of the heater to gain enough clearance to use the wrench + cheater bar. At this point, I worry I might do more harm than good with more extreme measures. So I guess I let sleeping dogs lie even if that means the lifespan of my hot water heater might be compromised. Personally, I think the technology of how anode rods are installed in a hot water heater is pretty weak considering the number of folks who have substantial problems removing them.
What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top
Spray a little closed cell insulation in there
Does anyone know if the 1989 model Australian Rheem anodes need a 1-1/16-inch socket, or is it metric?
If you don’t have the 1-1/16 socket you can use a 27mm.
Is it Ok to use an impact to get it out?
Absolutely. I’m using the craftsman 1/2 drive 20v and so far it has removed a few with little effort.
do you have to drain the heater before doing this?
@@kalvinraw2973 no, if you just drain a few gallons out of the water heater, it makes it much easier. The weight of the water heater will hold the water heater in place and allow you to get some more leverage on that and to get it out. But I would recommend using an impact it makes things very easy. This was just a video demonstrating that even in difficult situations. They will come out. I don’t recommend doing what I did in this video.
@@rickpowell1402 ...usually, yes....a "bit", like maybe 1 gallon, maybe 2. Why?....the anode rod you take out may be totally gone...and the displacement of the new rod will take up water volume and will overflow a full tank as you put that in.
This is probably more "realistic" to what the average homeowner experiences. All these videos that show just removing the plastic cap and putting a wrench on it and turning it to get the old rod out. Then our experience is more like this one.
I have a hybrid water heater and the anode nut is too close to the wall to get any socket around it, tried thin wall, tried other tool for removing anodes in RVs, nothing can get around the nut. Are there any options other than welding something to the nut and turning it?
There is a video specific to this anode rod. Watch that and it shows how to solve that issue
@@rickpowell1402 link?
If you're talking about the plastic retainer cap around the nut, that came right out, oddly enough. I'm talking about with that out, and any excess glue scraped away, the nut is still too close to the wall
@@catwalkcam you’re probably going to need to force the socket on there with force. Use a small piece of 2x4 to Protect the end of your extension and hammer it into place
As you can see kids, it's that easy.
the pissed off plumber😂😂
Thank you for showing the part where you have to dig through the foam to access the damn thing. I knew it was under there, and then i saw the foam which made me second guess myself thinking they put the one thats built into the inlet or outlet nipple. Id be pissed off for sure if i went to unscrewing both of those for no reason . This is a great video. Fuck the haters.
Can you put never seize on the threads when you install the new one? Or will that interfere with how the rod works?
I prefer to use Teflon tape
Almost none of us will have a heater that is free to spin and move. Can you show us how you'd do it with an installed heater?
I have them Posted. One was even a fail. My new friend is an impact and the 1-1/16 six point socket. Makes the job easy
The better way to remove it is just to drain a few gallons of wayer out and the weight of the water heater would keep it in place when removing the anode. Also an impact driver would bw a better choice to loosen the anode.
Absolutely that is a better way. The way demonstrated in the video is a very hard way to do it. But it’s possible.
Impact wrench for the win
Sore hand?
Ever heard of an impact driver. And with that frustration, I would not ever want you to work on anything of mine?
😂
Or use a pipe for leverage. I got one from Home Depot for $13
This is exactly how I would have to handle this.
Just tried to change the anno on my Ruud with a 6 point socket and the head rounded out. Garbage. On to different brand next time.
@@robcook6120 you’ll have the same result on any brand I’ve broken breaker bars on anodes and the heads did not round off. Could be the socket wasn’t seated correctly or it was not within spec.
1/2 inch impact wrench will do it.
So don’t remove the insulation in a plug that you can put back? Guess that would take too long. Hope that water heater works when you finished.
Id love to be able to dance with mine like that, but its hooked up to plumbing and the power vent. If you had it disconnected why not just lay it on the floor and use a breaker bar? I think half the challenge is keeping it from spinning when it is connected.
That was the point. Standing up and empty with a 16” bar. Can it be done? Yup. Plumbers complain all Day they can’t get the anode out.
Why they make them so hard to get out
So you have to hire a technician, of course!
The more accurate answer is that it was designed by an engineer. They don't care how hard things are to work on, only that they work out the door. I guarantee you an actual plumber would have changed this decades ago if they could convince an engineer to dismount his high-horse and listen.
Use shop vac clean out spray insulation pieces first
Why did you drain the tank down u want the weight to be in there use two wrenches easy peezy
What would you put another wrench on??
You need to use a longer bar such as a breaker bar or a cheater pipe for more leverage.
@@markmulye2703 I use those. But. In a pinch. You can muscle it out. It happens in the field. And guys cry they can’t get them out.
More than the big "lever-arm" ( breaker bar) is needed to loosen the anode rod. Why? .....because a long lever arm exerts nice even force ....and that won't do, It's like driving a nail with a lot of force slowly applied as "pressure". Won't work. The force has to have a short fast rap.....like using an impact wrench...and if you don't have one.....use a breaker bar and then a mallet at the end of the bar..... to "tap /tap / tap" to get such "impulse" force applied....makes a big difference. If you keep 45 gallons of water in the 50 gal tank...that also adds 375 lbs of weight, and helps keep the tank from moving. More....don't just blow the insulation sharf away by blowing at it with your mouth....get a shop vac. You don't want even a small piece if this stuff to enter the tank and then clog some sink aerator or worse.
Plumbers complain about not having room for a breaker bar. That’s the reason for this video.
@@alphaq3427 ...my whole point is that a breaker bar....or any attempt using just force without a "Rap"....risks not being successful. Even a very short adjustable wrench clamped onto the anode hex and then rapped with a hammer at the end of the handle....works better....like this guy had to do ( sorry for the cross-posting)---> ua-cam.com/video/qLzoikQ7gWg/v-deo.html ... at his timeline 7.00 to 7.45. Iif anode hex is recessed the same can be done with a deep socket.
That's what's probably wrong with mine. Only 4 years old. Getting sand in the tub.
So much keyboard plumbers here that wouldn't even have the tools he uses ... good job man
Look awful stress to do this. Can’t Rheem make it more simple? At least not sink the rod, have it above with insulated cap cover.
Why the F did you fully drain the tank and pull off the water inlet and outlet pipes to change a anode rod? Might as well just get a new water heater.
To prove a point. that even with an empty tank and only a socket and ratchet they will come out. Them majority of complaints I deal with regarding anode rods is " I cant get it out" and my answer is try harder.
@@rickpowell1402 yeah my builder put the anode rod on the back side behind pipes was a pita to remove… used a impact wrench and a piece of wire to fish out the rod.
@@rickpowell1402 that makes way more sense now 😆
@@kmain0 Thank you, I guess I could have put that in the description. This water heater is already dead and was thrown away for scrap so I decided to abuse it.
@@randallwinters7387 this was a trash water heater. In a warehouse for training. Plumbers are telling me they can’t get the rods out. So. I said ok. I’ll do it with an empty tank and minimal tools to prove a point. They do come out. But no this was not at a house. I don’t act that way at a clients home.
Don't mean to be critical, and maybe this tech is not aware of this, but the overall impression of this video is one of impatience and lack of respect for the equipment involved (there is no need, for example, for banging of the expansion tank to turn the WH inlet nipple). BWT, if one does this for a living, you would think he would have the obvious tool for this, a cordless impact wrench to go with that 1-1/16" deep socket. That approach avoids all the wresting with the WH, is easy on you and easy on the equipment. Because of a similar experience to what we saw here, I had already come to this conclusion and I'm just the average home owner. It's also easier if you can leave most of the water in the WH so it can hold it still for you.
Amazing job!
Probably sheared it off with all that beating. My man get an impact driver.
no easier way to do that?😅
1/2 inch impact wrench might be better
100 times better
@@rickpowell1402 1/2 impact does nothing on mine, trying a breaker bar next.
Seems well engineered. Not.
What... factory can't use Teflon?
cant? IDK, they seem to typically use pipe dope.
So, it is a DIY project to remove/replace the anode rod. I had a service company quote me $717. #newsubscriber
Absolutely a diy, if you have time.
Part from Rheem is $21.....
There are some link on UA-cam to help you do this. Don't drain all the water is one idea to give it some weight. Hammer on the Ratchet handle instead of palm.........
the purpose of the video was to show that even with the water tank drain and with minimal tools, you can still force the rod out a lot of people claim they are not able to get the rod out.
Battery impact gun make easy removal
No not mine. I'm trying a breaker bar next.
Boy, did I waste my time. Pulled the cap on my Rheem gas water heater and dug out the foam only to find the tank, no anode. Hidden behind the heat vent was a large plastic shield that holds the anode. NO FOAM NEEDED TO BE REMOVED.
Yes, some water heaters are like that. Sorry you wasted your time.
Lmao! I think I’ll have someone else change my anode rod. This looks painful!
Ahh, I think that was the goal of this video, to scare people away from doing it themselves! lol
You did it the hard way.
I had to, to prove a point. Tired of being told “I can’t” by grown men.
Wow, I thought it was just me. Would not want him as my plumber!
@@rschuebel you can’t afford me. So. Problem solved.
@@rickpowell1402 As a 20+ year carpenter, this is EXACTLY the kind of plumber I'd want on my jobs! "GET-R-DUN!"
@@JoshDisher I can sure everyone else that I do not beat the crap out of appliances in their home, but I do try and GET-R-DUN and get out of their way. Thank you for that Josh
He’s struggling this hard and it’s not even hooked up. Lol
Very rough and messy
Low T levels? Don't take it out on the water heater.
I would never have this guy work on anything I own… you need a little finesse to do any mechanical work.. even a plumber.
Leave water in and it will help make it ever
Need a impact. Dah!
Someone get this guy an impact lol
An impact won't do as much as a breaker bar.
Interesting and get your self and impact tool...watching you wrestle with a hot water heater was sort of funny.
Bad for your hand! Get a rubber mallet, use a piece of 2x4, get an impact wrench . I know, I beat my hand up and am now paying for it!
Is this a joke?
Would impact drill be ok to use
It would be better !
This guy is going to be hurting his had , he should've used a breaker bar.
Have one. Just demonstrating in a pinch you can get it out. Somewhat used to pounding on the ratchet, hand doesn’t get sore anymore.
Why you in such a hurry?
Not trying to make it take all day. heater was trash, just wanted to pull the rod for Demo purposes.
@@rickpowell1402 Thanks for the demo. I'm just used to demos going a little slower. Not that there's much to miss when watching an anode rod replacement video.
@@foltz61 1-1/16 6 point socket and an impact will make your life easy. also some brands have the anode rods on the hot water pipe of the heater, so watch out for that.
This is why I don't hire "professional" plumbers.... they are gorillas who are rough with everything, rush, damage things, over charge and deny responsibility for spotty workmanship and collateral damage. Yes an electric impact wrench would help. Breaker bar.... work smart not dumb... Yes having some water in the tank would help.... I just installed my own gas water heater in the attic.
Did you miss the point of the video? It seems so.
@@rickpowell1402 Guess you did not read my post. You missed my point you are bull in a china shop. If you mean have tank with some water, not always possible. I watched the video and was horrified. Then GET STRAPS and secure it to something or get helper. This is not rocket engineering or brain surgery.. Don't take your aggression out on a poor water heater. Cheers
@@gmcjetpilot you missed it. This video was not about finesse or Grace. No water heaters were harmed during the filming of this video.
@rickpowell1402 No I did not miss anything. It was definitely not about finesse or grace, that was clear. That's my point. Regardless of your intented message, you failed. I watched other videos on the subject. Yours was the worst. No offense, please learn fenese, work smart w/ less beat on it technique. Have a Happy New Year.
@@gmcjetpilot mine was the worst? That’s a win. Anyone should either be the best or the worst. No one talks about the mundane middle of the pack. Happy for all your comments. I’ll be abusing water heaters for sure from now on.
Can I buy you a hammer 2 lb. hammer?
It's a boy!!🎉😂🎉
Looks he drew the short straw and had to do the video and was pissed. Wouldn't want him working on anything at my house
You couldn’t afford me anyway. Thanks for watching!
He should learn about leverage. He's working to hard and on top of that his hand is going to be sore after.
Bro, you should use a pipe for leverage. You could've broken your hand. 😂
Thats why he is wearing extra rings
He broke it lol..
he is rough that's why peoples heaters leak
Perfect timing! On it.....
My hands hurt watching this
Yeah, it's a bear to remove that rod when it empty too, its needs some mass, those things are tough. 1/2" Impact works good.
Ya need a rubber mallet
Rheem is either tremendously stupid or they are setting up for their installers with special tools. There is a tiny space around the anode rod nut. Way smaller thinner than a standard 1 1/16 socket. THERE IS NO REASON for it to be so difficult. Rheem should be ashamed.
Sockets fit just fine
I may look like a moron correction you are one
Why not show what the new part looks like?
You can Google it if you need a picture of a new one.
@@rickpowell1402 real UA-cam make videos to show the comparison I guess morons Don't
Don't want him beating my unit and wrestling with my stuff like that. Not trustworthy at all dude.
I torched it banged it rocked it. Won’t come out. Pain in the a
Get a breaker bar. Or use an impact
Where’s your cheater bar
@@chrisklingler5254 don’t need one. Clearly. But seriously I use an impact. This was for the guys that call in and say “I can’t get it out, it’s too tight”.
Don't force it... Get a big hammer!