When I opened where the Anode said it was suppose to be from the Water Heater Manuel all I saw was foam, I was like wtf. Nothing in the Manuel prepares you for that or anything else for that matter, I immediately came to UA-cam and found this video. Thanks for filling in the picture that the manufacture forgets to mention'
For those without an impact, this worked for me on a 19 year old tank: 1- spray anode head and its visible threads with wd-40 2- leave for a few hours 3- using the appropriate socket with a non-ratchet bar (or with a ratchet has a "middle" setting that allows it to torque in either direction), give the bar a few good raps with a heavy hammer in the undo direction.
Thank you, Rick, for showing me that there is hope for me to find the hex head below the foam. I used a pocket knife first, and then a screwdriver and shop vac to neatly get rid of the styrofoam. Walmart owes you a commission - I bought a corded electric Hyper Tough impact wrench to remove mine, and it was worth $45 for sure, even though I left water in my heater, I didn't want to come close to the effort that you put in!!!
Yeah, when trying to loosen anything factory on a water heater, it definitely helps to have it full of water. Good point on the six sided socket. Don't use twelve point or you can strip the anode bolt. And of course, being careful, an impact can be very helpful.
You know what they say.. demo is always the worst part of the job. Years of gunk, rust, etc is tough to remove and undo. Spaces are tight, things corroded, dirty.
Man thank you. I have a BRAND NEW Rheem water heater and it seems to be leaking at the anode rod. Gonna take it out tape of the thread and pipe dope it. Sucks that this will be much easier to do than calling the 1800 number.
They obviously don't build 'em like they used to then. My Rheem lasted from 2004 to 2023 (19 years) before leaking. It might have helped though that I followed someone's advice for tank longetivity when I fitted it, and turned the thermostat down to minimum (74 deg. F, if I remember correctly)
I was under the impression that the inside of these hot water heaters are glass, and that once they get some years on them, if you treat them this roughly, the glass can fail. True? Not true? I have a XG75T06ST76U0 that is just over 8 years old and has never had the anode rod(s) replaced, nor has it been drained. Should I do the rod(s) first then drain and refill? Also, is there only one rod, or several, as I see multiple plastic plugs on top? Thank you!
Got a Rheem hot water heater installed a little over a year ago and the hot water has smelled nasty ever since. Cold water is fine. Does the anode rod come installed from the factory or did they forget to put one in? Tradesmen where I live are mostly idiots.
I know it’s been a while save you posted but the reason for the smell is that your water isn’t hot enough.. had that experience, turned it up and it all went away.
On the modern units there is a plastic finishing piece attached to the outer shell of the unit. It neatens up the appearance but it makes it impossible to get a standard one and one-sixteenth socket into the hole? Do you need an ultra slim socket? Do you remove the plastic finishing piece?
Had the same problem almost immediately with a new install last September. Been living with it since. Wife not too happy. Think I'm going to replace the rod with one of the powered ones. Guess they pretty much take care of the smell. $100 - $150 on Amazon
Why did you have to change it in the first place? I read somewhere if it is popping and cracking while water is heating up then you have to change it. Thanks
its designed to be sacrificial, popping and such maybe aluminum hydroxide. You'll know if you drain the heater and you see white goop coming out of the drain.
@@connorgillispie7128 possibly a small amount of heat loss. Will it be noticeable ? Probably not. But you could spray foam it back I when done if it’s a concern.
I had a plumber come out last week to replace the leaking thermal expansion tank on my 75 gallon Rheem hot water heater that was manufactured in November of 2014, so it has been installed for about 8 1/2 years. It has never been drained or had the anode rod replaced. There is some rust at the top of the cold water connection and he said there was some around where the plastic plug is at the anode location in the back of the heater (not the best place to locate it - would have to remove the gas vent to access it). Having never been services, I asked if I should replace the anode rod and drain the hwh especially since I've already purchased the 42" replacement anode rod. He said I should not as it might be impossible to reseal the new anode rod. He also advised against draining it as the plastic valve at the bottom is known to fail. What is y'alls experience and recommendation? Ride it out until it fails...whenever that is, or risk servicing it and it possibly failing immediately?
Personally I would carefully drain the heater, remove the plastic drain valve and then remove the anode rod and install the new one. pipe dope and/or teflon the pipe threads and you'll be fine. as far as how much life is left in that heater is anyones guess.
@@rickpowell1402 Well, I had no problem draining it, but was completely unable to get the old anode tube, or what's left of it, out. The top of the hex part was completely rusted and despite soaking it in several coatings of penetrating spray for a few hours, and then using a 2' breaker bar, the best I could do was get the socket to slip. I've seen somewhere where they recommended an impact wrench and I believe that's sound advice so that the torque is evenly split across all six sides of the hex head of the anode rod. What was interesting otherwise was that when I drained it, I saw ZERO sediment come out despite draining the entire thing and even running the cold water a bit at the end and draining it a bit more. I expected more junk as I don't have a water softener or treatment system. Just straight city water, and it's pretty hard water.
That is not true about the valve at the bottom of the tank. You can drain it twice a year if you want to. Just remember to cut off the cold water valve coming into the tank and turn off the breaker to power the heater and open up the pressure release valve. Also open hot water in faucets and showers to clear out the vacume in the hot water lines.
It's getting hard to trust " experts " these days. My AC guy told me I needed a UV light to kill mold-$1200,I installed it for $65. I took a flat tire to Tire Kingdom, told " it can't be repaired, it's longer than 3/8" ! You need a new tire, $280 out the door ! ". I had a plumber change out an outside faucet and associated hardware ( worth less than $50 ). It took him all of 15 minutes and he charged me $550. I love YT.
We removed our anode on our Rheem Gladiator and replaced it yesterday. Dug out the factory foam. After new anode was in we noticed two small wires in the foam inside the anode hole. One was a severed black wire like as if I did it digging the foam out. Heater seems to work fine though. You ever seen that before?
I have a hybrid water heater and the anode nut is too close to the wall to get any socket around it, tried thin wall, tried other tool for removing anodes in RVs, nothing can get around the nut. Are there any options other than welding something to the nut and turning it?
If you're talking about the plastic retainer cap around the nut, that came right out, oddly enough. I'm talking about with that out, and any excess glue scraped away, the nut is still too close to the wall
@@catwalkcam you’re probably going to need to force the socket on there with force. Use a small piece of 2x4 to Protect the end of your extension and hammer it into place
The better way to remove it is just to drain a few gallons of wayer out and the weight of the water heater would keep it in place when removing the anode. Also an impact driver would bw a better choice to loosen the anode.
@@kalvinraw2973 no, if you just drain a few gallons out of the water heater, it makes it much easier. The weight of the water heater will hold the water heater in place and allow you to get some more leverage on that and to get it out. But I would recommend using an impact it makes things very easy. This was just a video demonstrating that even in difficult situations. They will come out. I don’t recommend doing what I did in this video.
What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top
Hi, neat. Ur new subscriber.... My Platinum Rheem is a 2017, too. How do u know when the anode needs r&r? Would my Plat have the same decay rate as ur standard in ur informative video? Thanx, Mike in GA.
That depends on the water. It’s recommended to check this rod annually. If it looks bad install a new one. Also check on your model and see if it had 2. One in the standard location and one that is part of the outlets side pipe.
This is probably more "realistic" to what the average homeowner experiences. All these videos that show just removing the plastic cap and putting a wrench on it and turning it to get the old rod out. Then our experience is more like this one.
@@JoshDisher I can sure everyone else that I do not beat the crap out of appliances in their home, but I do try and GET-R-DUN and get out of their way. Thank you for that Josh
To prove a point. that even with an empty tank and only a socket and ratchet they will come out. Them majority of complaints I deal with regarding anode rods is " I cant get it out" and my answer is try harder.
@@rickpowell1402 yeah my builder put the anode rod on the back side behind pipes was a pita to remove… used a impact wrench and a piece of wire to fish out the rod.
@@kmain0 Thank you, I guess I could have put that in the description. This water heater is already dead and was thrown away for scrap so I decided to abuse it.
@@randallwinters7387 this was a trash water heater. In a warehouse for training. Plumbers are telling me they can’t get the rods out. So. I said ok. I’ll do it with an empty tank and minimal tools to prove a point. They do come out. But no this was not at a house. I don’t act that way at a clients home.
Id love to be able to dance with mine like that, but its hooked up to plumbing and the power vent. If you had it disconnected why not just lay it on the floor and use a breaker bar? I think half the challenge is keeping it from spinning when it is connected.
@@robcook6120 you’ll have the same result on any brand I’ve broken breaker bars on anodes and the heads did not round off. Could be the socket wasn’t seated correctly or it was not within spec.
So you have to hire a technician, of course! The more accurate answer is that it was designed by an engineer. They don't care how hard things are to work on, only that they work out the door. I guarantee you an actual plumber would have changed this decades ago if they could convince an engineer to dismount his high-horse and listen.
There are some link on UA-cam to help you do this. Don't drain all the water is one idea to give it some weight. Hammer on the Ratchet handle instead of palm.........
the purpose of the video was to show that even with the water tank drain and with minimal tools, you can still force the rod out a lot of people claim they are not able to get the rod out.
Boy, did I waste my time. Pulled the cap on my Rheem gas water heater and dug out the foam only to find the tank, no anode. Hidden behind the heat vent was a large plastic shield that holds the anode. NO FOAM NEEDED TO BE REMOVED.
@@rickpowell1402 Thanks for the demo. I'm just used to demos going a little slower. Not that there's much to miss when watching an anode rod replacement video.
@@foltz61 1-1/16 6 point socket and an impact will make your life easy. also some brands have the anode rods on the hot water pipe of the heater, so watch out for that.
This is why I don't hire "professional" plumbers.... they are gorillas who are rough with everything, rush, damage things, over charge and deny responsibility for spotty workmanship and collateral damage. Yes an electric impact wrench would help. Breaker bar.... work smart not dumb... Yes having some water in the tank would help.... I just installed my own gas water heater in the attic.
@@rickpowell1402 Guess you did not read my post. You missed my point you are bull in a china shop. If you mean have tank with some water, not always possible. I watched the video and was horrified. Then GET STRAPS and secure it to something or get helper. This is not rocket engineering or brain surgery.. Don't take your aggression out on a poor water heater. Cheers
@rickpowell1402 No I did not miss anything. It was definitely not about finesse or grace, that was clear. That's my point. Regardless of your intented message, you failed. I watched other videos on the subject. Yours was the worst. No offense, please learn fenese, work smart w/ less beat on it technique. Have a Happy New Year.
@@gmcjetpilot mine was the worst? That’s a win. Anyone should either be the best or the worst. No one talks about the mundane middle of the pack. Happy for all your comments. I’ll be abusing water heaters for sure from now on.
Rheem is either tremendously stupid or they are setting up for their installers with special tools. There is a tiny space around the anode rod nut. Way smaller thinner than a standard 1 1/16 socket. THERE IS NO REASON for it to be so difficult. Rheem should be ashamed.
@@chrisklingler5254 don’t need one. Clearly. But seriously I use an impact. This was for the guys that call in and say “I can’t get it out, it’s too tight”.
![Keep Water Heater from Spinning! [Remove Anode Rod EASY TRICK]](/img/n.gif)
i love how Rick is showing everyone what it is really like in the field. Great job
When I opened where the Anode said it was suppose to be from the Water Heater Manuel all I saw was foam, I was like wtf. Nothing in the Manuel prepares you for that or anything else for that matter, I immediately came to UA-cam and found this video. Thanks for filling in the picture that the manufacture forgets to mention'
That explains why my hot water stinks ever since i got a new water heater about a year ago. I'll be looking for that foam tomorrow.
impact drivers works best on these. also having the tank full of water helps. thanks for all of the rheem videos. they are very educational
This was just to prove a point. I get many calls stating the anodes will not come out. A full tank and a breaker bar will make this job easy money.
For those without an impact, this worked for me on a 19 year old tank:
1- spray anode head and its visible threads with wd-40
2- leave for a few hours
3- using the appropriate socket with a non-ratchet bar (or with a ratchet has a "middle" setting that allows it to torque in either direction), give the bar a few good raps with a heavy hammer in the undo direction.
Thank you, Rick, for showing me that there is hope for me to find the hex head below the foam. I used a pocket knife first, and then a screwdriver and shop vac to neatly get rid of the styrofoam. Walmart owes you a commission - I bought a corded electric Hyper Tough impact wrench to remove mine, and it was worth $45 for sure, even though I left water in my heater, I didn't want to come close to the effort that you put in!!!
Most stressful and aggressive video I’ve ever seen I’ve seen enough
Agreed. Was hoping to learn how not to break things.
I stressed out watching this video.
@@rjames80 same lol
@@troykillman this is a video for guys that can’t get anode rods out due to their purses being to heavy.
@@rickpowell1402you struggled with this thing not even hooked up. Lol
Love how you work. None of this gentle and easy crap. I've got work to do and money to make.
ya, let's not worry about getting insulation into the unit....hint= vacuum cleaner
I wouldn’t trust this guy changing my garden hose …let alone my water heater …. Jesus this was painful to watch
Thanks for showing that you can busy thru the Styrofoam, everyone else skipped that part so I wasn't sure if that was acceptable.
Well this is just perfect. I have a '17 Rheem.
So much keyboard plumbers here that wouldn't even have the tools he uses ... good job man
Yeah, when trying to loosen anything factory on a water heater, it definitely helps to have it full of water. Good point on the six sided socket. Don't use twelve point or you can strip the anode bolt. And of course, being careful, an impact can be very helpful.
For a Rheem technician he sure is struggling. Lol
Out of shape. Lol
You know what they say.. demo is always the worst part of the job. Years of gunk, rust, etc is tough to remove and undo. Spaces are tight, things corroded, dirty.
Man thank you. I have a BRAND NEW Rheem water heater and it seems to be leaking at the anode rod. Gonna take it out tape of the thread and pipe dope it. Sucks that this will be much easier to do than calling the 1800 number.
They obviously don't build 'em like they used to then. My Rheem lasted from 2004 to 2023 (19 years) before leaking.
It might have helped though that I followed someone's advice for tank longetivity when I fitted it, and turned the thermostat down to minimum (74 deg. F, if I remember correctly)
I was under the impression that the inside of these hot water heaters are glass, and that once they get some years on them, if you treat them this roughly, the glass can fail. True? Not true? I have a XG75T06ST76U0 that is just over 8 years old and has never had the anode rod(s) replaced, nor has it been drained. Should I do the rod(s) first then drain and refill? Also, is there only one rod, or several, as I see multiple plastic plugs on top? Thank you!
Glass lining more like a ceramic coating. Water will eat away at it fast once anode rod is gone.
The number you listed is the serial number, not the model.
@@Rhizzo that’s the model
@@yellowdog5257 the lining isn’t perfect. The anode will Protect the small amounts of exposed steel.
Got a Rheem hot water heater installed a little over a year ago and the hot water has smelled nasty ever since. Cold water is fine. Does the anode rod come installed from the factory or did they forget to put one in? Tradesmen where I live are mostly idiots.
I know it’s been a while save you posted but the reason for the smell is that your water isn’t hot enough.. had that experience, turned it up and it all went away.
On the modern units there is a plastic finishing piece attached to the outer shell of the unit. It neatens up the appearance but it makes it impossible to get a standard one and one-sixteenth socket into the hole? Do you need an ultra slim socket?
Do you remove the plastic finishing piece?
Remove it if it’s in the way.
I have a 2020 model and what smell has showed up after a year... Is there a better, longer lasting rod to replace it with?
Had the same problem almost immediately with a new install last September. Been living with it since. Wife not too happy. Think I'm going to replace the rod with one of the powered ones. Guess they pretty much take care of the smell. $100 - $150 on Amazon
@@gw5309 I heard that magnesium rods don't smell as much as aluminum ones
makes me nervous, mines a 2017 and i am trying to take the anode rod out.
Why did you have to change it in the first place? I read somewhere if it is popping and cracking while water is heating up then you have to change it. Thanks
its designed to be sacrificial, popping and such maybe aluminum hydroxide. You'll know if you drain the heater and you see white goop coming out of the drain.
This is exactly how I would have to handle this.
How will removing the insulation affect the water heater?
@@connorgillispie7128 possibly a small amount of heat loss. Will it be noticeable ? Probably not. But you could spray foam it back I when done if it’s a concern.
I had a plumber come out last week to replace the leaking thermal expansion tank on my 75 gallon Rheem hot water heater that was manufactured in November of 2014, so it has been installed for about 8 1/2 years. It has never been drained or had the anode rod replaced. There is some rust at the top of the cold water connection and he said there was some around where the plastic plug is at the anode location in the back of the heater (not the best place to locate it - would have to remove the gas vent to access it). Having never been services, I asked if I should replace the anode rod and drain the hwh especially since I've already purchased the 42" replacement anode rod. He said I should not as it might be impossible to reseal the new anode rod. He also advised against draining it as the plastic valve at the bottom is known to fail. What is y'alls experience and recommendation? Ride it out until it fails...whenever that is, or risk servicing it and it possibly failing immediately?
Personally I would carefully drain the heater, remove the plastic drain valve and then remove the anode rod and install the new one. pipe dope and/or teflon the pipe threads and you'll be fine. as far as how much life is left in that heater is anyones guess.
@@rickpowell1402 Well, I had no problem draining it, but was completely unable to get the old anode tube, or what's left of it, out. The top of the hex part was completely rusted and despite soaking it in several coatings of penetrating spray for a few hours, and then using a 2' breaker bar, the best I could do was get the socket to slip. I've seen somewhere where they recommended an impact wrench and I believe that's sound advice so that the torque is evenly split across all six sides of the hex head of the anode rod. What was interesting otherwise was that when I drained it, I saw ZERO sediment come out despite draining the entire thing and even running the cold water a bit at the end and draining it a bit more. I expected more junk as I don't have a water softener or treatment system. Just straight city water, and it's pretty hard water.
That is not true about the valve at the bottom of the tank. You can drain it twice a year if you want to. Just remember to cut off the cold water valve coming into the tank and turn off the breaker to power the heater and open up the pressure release valve. Also open hot water in faucets and showers to clear out the vacume in the hot water lines.
It's getting hard to trust " experts " these days. My AC guy told me I needed a UV light to kill mold-$1200,I installed it for $65. I took a flat tire to Tire Kingdom, told " it can't be repaired, it's longer than 3/8" ! You need a new tire, $280 out the door ! ". I had a plumber change out an outside faucet and associated hardware ( worth less than $50 ). It took him all of 15 minutes and he charged me $550. I love YT.
@@Rainman270 find a local handy man... AC guy? mold? uv light? what was that needed for? In NY I charge half for this work....
We removed our anode on our Rheem Gladiator and replaced it yesterday. Dug out the factory foam. After new anode was in we noticed two small wires in the foam inside the anode hole. One was a severed black wire like as if I did it digging the foam out. Heater seems to work fine though. You ever seen that before?
No, should not be a problem. But I agree that’s odd.
I have a hybrid water heater and the anode nut is too close to the wall to get any socket around it, tried thin wall, tried other tool for removing anodes in RVs, nothing can get around the nut. Are there any options other than welding something to the nut and turning it?
There is a video specific to this anode rod. Watch that and it shows how to solve that issue
@@rickpowell1402 link?
If you're talking about the plastic retainer cap around the nut, that came right out, oddly enough. I'm talking about with that out, and any excess glue scraped away, the nut is still too close to the wall
@@catwalkcam you’re probably going to need to force the socket on there with force. Use a small piece of 2x4 to Protect the end of your extension and hammer it into place
The better way to remove it is just to drain a few gallons of wayer out and the weight of the water heater would keep it in place when removing the anode. Also an impact driver would bw a better choice to loosen the anode.
Absolutely that is a better way. The way demonstrated in the video is a very hard way to do it. But it’s possible.
As you can see kids, it's that easy.
Does anyone know if the 1989 model Australian Rheem anodes need a 1-1/16-inch socket, or is it metric?
If you don’t have the 1-1/16 socket you can use a 27mm.
do you have to drain the heater before doing this?
@@kalvinraw2973 no, if you just drain a few gallons out of the water heater, it makes it much easier. The weight of the water heater will hold the water heater in place and allow you to get some more leverage on that and to get it out. But I would recommend using an impact it makes things very easy. This was just a video demonstrating that even in difficult situations. They will come out. I don’t recommend doing what I did in this video.
What I noticed on mine after having to dig out the foam that covered it, the nut portion was all rusted due to condensation buildup. When i replaced it with new aluminum rod, now that it's exposed to air it's prone to sweating and the nut portion will likely rust due to condensation long term. I need to have a good solution to a closed cell insulation to plug off the top
Spray a little closed cell insulation in there
Amazing job!
Is it Ok to use an impact to get it out?
Absolutely. I’m using the craftsman 1/2 drive 20v and so far it has removed a few with little effort.
Can you put never seize on the threads when you install the new one? Or will that interfere with how the rod works?
I prefer to use Teflon tape
Would impact drill be ok to use
It would be better !
Hi, neat. Ur new subscriber.... My Platinum Rheem is a 2017, too. How do u know when the anode needs r&r? Would my Plat have the same decay rate as ur standard in ur informative video? Thanx, Mike in GA.
That depends on the water. It’s recommended to check this rod annually. If it looks bad install a new one. Also check on your model and see if it had 2. One in the standard location and one that is part of the outlets side pipe.
This is probably more "realistic" to what the average homeowner experiences. All these videos that show just removing the plastic cap and putting a wrench on it and turning it to get the old rod out. Then our experience is more like this one.
Almost none of us will have a heater that is free to spin and move. Can you show us how you'd do it with an installed heater?
I have them Posted. One was even a fail. My new friend is an impact and the 1-1/16 six point socket. Makes the job easy
Wow, I thought it was just me. Would not want him as my plumber!
@@rschuebel you can’t afford me. So. Problem solved.
@@rickpowell1402 As a 20+ year carpenter, this is EXACTLY the kind of plumber I'd want on my jobs! "GET-R-DUN!"
@@JoshDisher I can sure everyone else that I do not beat the crap out of appliances in their home, but I do try and GET-R-DUN and get out of their way. Thank you for that Josh
Why the F did you fully drain the tank and pull off the water inlet and outlet pipes to change a anode rod? Might as well just get a new water heater.
To prove a point. that even with an empty tank and only a socket and ratchet they will come out. Them majority of complaints I deal with regarding anode rods is " I cant get it out" and my answer is try harder.
@@rickpowell1402 yeah my builder put the anode rod on the back side behind pipes was a pita to remove… used a impact wrench and a piece of wire to fish out the rod.
@@rickpowell1402 that makes way more sense now 😆
@@kmain0 Thank you, I guess I could have put that in the description. This water heater is already dead and was thrown away for scrap so I decided to abuse it.
@@randallwinters7387 this was a trash water heater. In a warehouse for training. Plumbers are telling me they can’t get the rods out. So. I said ok. I’ll do it with an empty tank and minimal tools to prove a point. They do come out. But no this was not at a house. I don’t act that way at a clients home.
You did it the hard way.
I had to, to prove a point. Tired of being told “I can’t” by grown men.
So, it is a DIY project to remove/replace the anode rod. I had a service company quote me $717. #newsubscriber
Absolutely a diy, if you have time.
Id love to be able to dance with mine like that, but its hooked up to plumbing and the power vent. If you had it disconnected why not just lay it on the floor and use a breaker bar? I think half the challenge is keeping it from spinning when it is connected.
That was the point. Standing up and empty with a 16” bar. Can it be done? Yup. Plumbers complain all Day they can’t get the anode out.
Look awful stress to do this. Can’t Rheem make it more simple? At least not sink the rod, have it above with insulated cap cover.
Just tried to change the anno on my Ruud with a 6 point socket and the head rounded out. Garbage. On to different brand next time.
@@robcook6120 you’ll have the same result on any brand I’ve broken breaker bars on anodes and the heads did not round off. Could be the socket wasn’t seated correctly or it was not within spec.
That's what's probably wrong with mine. Only 4 years old. Getting sand in the tub.
He broke it lol..
Why did you drain the tank down u want the weight to be in there use two wrenches easy peezy
What would you put another wrench on??
Use shop vac clean out spray insulation pieces first
You need to use a longer bar such as a breaker bar or a cheater pipe for more leverage.
@@markmulye2703 I use those. But. In a pinch. You can muscle it out. It happens in the field. And guys cry they can’t get them out.
Perfect timing! On it.....
Why they make them so hard to get out
So you have to hire a technician, of course!
The more accurate answer is that it was designed by an engineer. They don't care how hard things are to work on, only that they work out the door. I guarantee you an actual plumber would have changed this decades ago if they could convince an engineer to dismount his high-horse and listen.
There are some link on UA-cam to help you do this. Don't drain all the water is one idea to give it some weight. Hammer on the Ratchet handle instead of palm.........
the purpose of the video was to show that even with the water tank drain and with minimal tools, you can still force the rod out a lot of people claim they are not able to get the rod out.
Lmao! I think I’ll have someone else change my anode rod. This looks painful!
Ahh, I think that was the goal of this video, to scare people away from doing it themselves! lol
Someone get this guy an impact lol
An impact won't do as much as a breaker bar.
He’s struggling this hard and it’s not even hooked up. Lol
no easier way to do that?😅
My hands hurt watching this
Interesting and get your self and impact tool...watching you wrestle with a hot water heater was sort of funny.
Bro, you should use a pipe for leverage. You could've broken your hand. 😂
Thats why he is wearing extra rings
Boy, did I waste my time. Pulled the cap on my Rheem gas water heater and dug out the foam only to find the tank, no anode. Hidden behind the heat vent was a large plastic shield that holds the anode. NO FOAM NEEDED TO BE REMOVED.
Yes, some water heaters are like that. Sorry you wasted your time.
Leave water in and it will help make it ever
Can I buy you a hammer 2 lb. hammer?
Ever heard of an impact driver. And with that frustration, I would not ever want you to work on anything of mine?
😂
Or use a pipe for leverage. I got one from Home Depot for $13
Seems well engineered. Not.
What... factory can't use Teflon?
cant? IDK, they seem to typically use pipe dope.
I would never have this guy work on anything I own… you need a little finesse to do any mechanical work.. even a plumber.
Battery impact gun make easy removal
No not mine. I'm trying a breaker bar next.
Bad for your hand! Get a rubber mallet, use a piece of 2x4, get an impact wrench . I know, I beat my hand up and am now paying for it!
Yeah, it's a bear to remove that rod when it empty too, its needs some mass, those things are tough. 1/2" Impact works good.
Looks he drew the short straw and had to do the video and was pissed. Wouldn't want him working on anything at my house
You couldn’t afford me anyway. Thanks for watching!
Need a impact. Dah!
1/2 inch impact wrench might be better
100 times better
@@rickpowell1402 1/2 impact does nothing on mine, trying a breaker bar next.
Is this a joke?
This guy is going to be hurting his had , he should've used a breaker bar.
Have one. Just demonstrating in a pinch you can get it out. Somewhat used to pounding on the ratchet, hand doesn’t get sore anymore.
Don't force it... Get a big hammer!
Ya need a rubber mallet
Very rough and messy
he is rough that's why peoples heaters leak
He should learn about leverage. He's working to hard and on top of that his hand is going to be sore after.
Man you gave me anxiety 😅
Wow
Why you in such a hurry?
Not trying to make it take all day. heater was trash, just wanted to pull the rod for Demo purposes.
@@rickpowell1402 Thanks for the demo. I'm just used to demos going a little slower. Not that there's much to miss when watching an anode rod replacement video.
@@foltz61 1-1/16 6 point socket and an impact will make your life easy. also some brands have the anode rods on the hot water pipe of the heater, so watch out for that.
This is why I don't hire "professional" plumbers.... they are gorillas who are rough with everything, rush, damage things, over charge and deny responsibility for spotty workmanship and collateral damage. Yes an electric impact wrench would help. Breaker bar.... work smart not dumb... Yes having some water in the tank would help.... I just installed my own gas water heater in the attic.
Did you miss the point of the video? It seems so.
@@rickpowell1402 Guess you did not read my post. You missed my point you are bull in a china shop. If you mean have tank with some water, not always possible. I watched the video and was horrified. Then GET STRAPS and secure it to something or get helper. This is not rocket engineering or brain surgery.. Don't take your aggression out on a poor water heater. Cheers
@@gmcjetpilot you missed it. This video was not about finesse or Grace. No water heaters were harmed during the filming of this video.
@rickpowell1402 No I did not miss anything. It was definitely not about finesse or grace, that was clear. That's my point. Regardless of your intented message, you failed. I watched other videos on the subject. Yours was the worst. No offense, please learn fenese, work smart w/ less beat on it technique. Have a Happy New Year.
@@gmcjetpilot mine was the worst? That’s a win. Anyone should either be the best or the worst. No one talks about the mundane middle of the pack. Happy for all your comments. I’ll be abusing water heaters for sure from now on.
I torched it banged it rocked it. Won’t come out. Pain in the a
Get a breaker bar. Or use an impact
Damn
Lmao. Struggle is real.
Feel sorry for his wife
@@MichaelWilliams-li4ib we all do
Get a hammer save your hand ✋️
Rheem is either tremendously stupid or they are setting up for their installers with special tools. There is a tiny space around the anode rod nut. Way smaller thinner than a standard 1 1/16 socket. THERE IS NO REASON for it to be so difficult. Rheem should be ashamed.
Sockets fit just fine
Where’s your cheater bar
@@chrisklingler5254 don’t need one. Clearly. But seriously I use an impact. This was for the guys that call in and say “I can’t get it out, it’s too tight”.
Jesus Christ dude lmfao
I have the next video in post. It’s much less aggressive.
lol
I may look like a moron correction you are one
Why not show what the new part looks like?
You can Google it if you need a picture of a new one.
@@rickpowell1402 real UA-cam make videos to show the comparison I guess morons Don't
THIS GUY IS A BUTCHER
The salt bae of water heaters no doubt
Why is this video on the internet it's so embarrassing.
@@seflashgordon you should see the one in which I’m wearing a speedo. Waaaaaay more embarrassing
Damn. I’m 79 yrs old. This is a young guy pounding with his hand. Scared me!