I debated as to whether or not to add this comment. First of all, y'all are doing a very good job so far. I am impressed with your vision and work ethic. I look forward to seeing your continued progress. Having said that, I must agree with other comments as to needing to do something to protect your flooring underneath. The area below the floor boards will be moist to wet, that is just a fact of boats. This area will be damp and untreated boards will be a sponge to absorb this moisture or water. Before you go any further, I would highly recommend that you put some type of treatment to the underside and side edges of the boards. Unfortunately, to do this correctly, you really need to take up the boards you have already put down so that you can fully cover the boards. If you choose to do this, take the boards up and stack them in order so that you can put the boards back down in the same order. I am afraid if you do not do this, down the road, you will have a much bigger job replacing boards after you have walls, cabinets, and other things built on top of the floor. Keep it up, you are doing a very good job and I commend you on your efforts and vision.
@@wilhelmbertram8066 I was thinking about this same thing, but and I don’t know much about these boats, if some how water gets in under the boards and soaked up the insulation. Then what happens?
Great job you Guys! Scaffold boards are pre treated and last a long time and are extra thick, perfect choice! Can see what hard work it is but you two have such a great dynamic and know you will get it done! Really pleased to see some progress and hands on jobs. Keep the videos coming, best barge on you tube! Oh and some Barley merch would be amazing 😃
Maybe consider Celotex type foam board insulation? It’s easy to cut and not that expensive. That will definitely act as a damp barrier and reduce cold floor issues. Remember winter water temps! Great idea to use scaffold boards!
I totally feel you…the trips to and from the sawmill, the up and down walking to and from the trailer to the caravan with planks on your shoulders….many broken days, but so worth it
great job and when you are done with the floor you can draw on the floor where what will be. believe me that works well and you have a clear overview of the space. i did that myself when i bought my empty boat.
Brilliant work you two, the thing I find when I've used scaffolding boards is they have a tendency to warp and shrink, after about a year, it's easy to remedy gaps in the boards, just use thin strips of timber a bit larger then the gap, then glue and hammer them in, sand or plane to level, it's nice in a way becuase you can stain them giving contrasting colors
I think that you will regret not having some thinly sprayed on urethane foam insulation on the subfloor to prevent condensation on the cold metal and high humidity interior air once the boat is finished and occupied. I would suggest talking to other boat owners about how they handled water issues. I would also place a series of small bilge pumps under the floor and run the outlets to a common exhaust to provide a means of clearing water that may come in from outside the boat without having to tear up the floor.
Some type of waterproof insulation should have been put under the wood and hopefully space for air to circulate. Remember any pipes need to be insulated. Will you stick with an outboard engine or have an inboard engine, maybe think about that before the floor is closed in.
Nice progress! I couldn't tell from the video but hopefully you are leaving gaps for expansion of the sub floor. Boats are not like houses, the steel work moves in the opposite direction to the timber depending on the season. A pound coin edge is a good guide to what is required as a gap. Thats why the interior of boats have so many trim pieces, to cover all the gaps.😂
Agreed. Wood swells and contracts, depending on moisture. Metal flexes occasionally. Expansion is necessary. No moisture seal on the bottom of floor planks will allow them to cup/curl. I love your vision guys. Keep it up. I'm loving the ride.
I am so pleased at your saving of a wonderful old barge. You have undertaken a task that most would find too daunting. You will have attained new skills you never knew you could do and i pray for your continued success. Your doing great, your doing what you want to do in your own way and you will have something amazing to be proud of at the end of it. Keep on smiling and give sausage a cuddle from us 😊. 🐕.
your ace ❤ you work hard and work together well just think of your kids watching this in years to come they will be very proud of hard working mum and dad ❤ well done and thanks for bringing us along on this big big adventure cool
I am so glad to see you are working after the upset the s**** caused you. So demoralising. Keep up the great work. Now, at near 80, I have to live other's dream's. So many thanks for your conrent.
If you have a prop on the boat and accessories to the inner flange of the prop shaft. How about sticking an electric motor: you won't need much to move; probably get away with a washing machine motor, on the flange and with some simple variable power mechanism you could be mobile. Probably cheaper than outboards, too.
omg love how come you guys have come laying the fload boards is awesome.... can't wait for the next built and you eventually move one.. great Job so far guys...love your work...
I also had a flat tire with my wheelbarrow every time, bought a solid wheelbarrow wheel is fine never a flat tire again. I think they sell them in England too. I am Dutch and live in France and follow you with great pleasure.
I agree with others moisture will be an issue under your floor! But also I see another equally important issue and that is no insulation under it! I would cut thick foam insulation to put down first in between the ribs. You could put blocks on the hull to raise it up if you are worried about water being able to travel to the bilge. Then I would cover it with a moisture barrier. Next step treat the underside of your flooring boards and then screw them down over that.
May I add my two Ront Essay? I suggest that once you have your floor layout complete, remove them, row by row, one row at a time, and GROOVE them. You can get a cutter for your router, or use a table saw, if you have one. Then rip some ply strips on aforementioned table saw, and joint the floorboards, tongue and groove. Use Balcotan or other PU woodglue. Work your way across in the same pattern. That floor will be so rigid, and when you decide you want to cut access hatches into the bilge, it wont be a problem. As many others have said, Waterproof. Id go so far as to say, lay a polythene sheet down as you do the T&G.
@@PinkLittleElephant there's not going to be much of that. House floorboards are T&G. You don't want dust falling through and trapping any moisture to make rust.
@@maarten_notjustagrip First off, you should paint the bilge to protect against rust. Wood will expand and contract more on a boat because you get greater changes in temperature and humidity. A better way is to allow small gaps between boards and fill these with flexibility caulking like cord.
Great load of progress having a floor is where it all starts to come together.Which everway sanded down will look great and the planning / arguments begin.
Great new video! I think if you just have a few breathing gaps within the timber flooring, you won't have any condensation problems, so no plastics required...
On helping you hold those boards to keep them straight is a furniture clamp and then when your past the point the fur 21:53 niture clamp can stretch all you have to do is temporarily screw a board down on top so the clamp has something to hold onto just a suggestion but your doing a good job putting the floor down but your not going to run plumbing and electrical first and if you rubber coated the bottom of the metal floor of the boat you could have put entrance hatches in the floor for access to the plumbing and electrical and also storage in the floor
Going to be interesting to see how much those boards are going to shrink, when you start living in it, average for a soft wood is 4%, so you could end up with as much as 10mm gap between boards,
Hi everyone… I actually have no interest in boats on water or canals, But funny how I keep watching your videos. I find it fun and interesting actually…looking forward to more thanks 😊
Wow al most got a floor Guys I'm Excited for you you not alone re tyre Pressure for the wheel barrow wheel as I don't have a clue lol Looking Great thou Nice Progress Thanks
One tip you might try when screwing down floor boards - to keep the tip from pulling out of the screwdriver, try tilting the tip a bit before pulling back, rather than just pulling straight back, It might help. It is annoying, but I think everyone seems to have this problem with screwdriver bits pulling out. Good luck.
I'm watching your videos from Brazil, even though I don't understand the language, but this house on this boat will be incredible when this project is finished. I want to see your projects finished. If the message is strange, it's because it was made by Google Translate. Ich sin ayre wiiteos am noo keen, hier im Brasil, opwool ich ti xprooch net ferxteen, awer tas haus uf tëm xif wërt unklaupich sin wën tas proyekt fërtich is. Ich wil ayre proyekte fërtich siin. estou acompanhando os videos de vcs, aqui do Brasil, mesmo sem entender o idioma, mas esta casa neste barco será incrivel quando concluido este projeto. quero ver pronto este projetos de vcs.
Would have been better to put a centre line down the length of the boat and start there, means you will have a good look as the boards will be lined up and nicely centralised, and easier to keep everything in line and easier to cut in the edge boards .. as a builder I'm looking at it from a builders point of view by the way, not a DIY point of view .. and I think mentioned before, should have protected the underside from damp and condensation.
Y'all need a 2, will Wilburn? That's got two wheels on the front, which would make it easier to haul them on or one of those garden wagon, slip.But you can set them on top and just pull it along
As with any floor I would have run planks down the Center line and worked outboard, that way any discrepancies will be duplicated and not as obvious but then that will be hind sight to you both as you are cracking on. Don’t forget ventilation, insulation and bilge pumps 😊🇬🇧
Regular green Prestone auto antifreeze, painted on the wood until no more will soak in, will prevent dry rot. After it dries, it can be painted or fiberglassed. Wooden boat trick.
Hi All, taking the end straps off the ends of the boards is a pain in the arse job I've done that before myself, i wonder who got that job!. Keep going it's a long haul yet.🙂
Agree with all the comments about treating the wood for moisture, also do you need to fit any ballast in the bilge? if so now is the time to do it.. Good luck to the 3 of you.🙂
Great progress guys, glad you learnt your lesson about showing Fosters on camera😂🤣😂. Sad to read the comments regarding treating the floorboards against rot and you have to rip it up. Be sure to number them so they go back to the same spot after being treated. I feel sorry for you guys having to redo it but glad at the same time because like you I had no idea about it and as I plan to start a small houseboat building venture in Australia I consider that very pertinent information. So, thanks for making the mistake I guess. The scaff planks are a great idea that I might use, however I'll probably just use marine ply then dress it up with parquetry. Give Barley pat for me. Keep up the great content ❤️
@@ocean686 Bull sharks don't come into the waterways around here because of the hammerhead "nest" where the river meets the ocean. Also crocs are about 1000km north of here where the tropical waters are better suited to them being cold blooded, even in summer. Additionally I'll be on the water, not in it. Also I've been a Surf Life Saver and the only shark I've seen here is a wobbegong shark. There's an old saying "It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear to be a fool than to open it and remove all doubt" Tip - proof read before you post. Have a nice day🙂
Your boards will expand and contract in that environment, if you make them that tight to your bulk heads your boards will warp, and if your sanding them down you should counter sink and fill the screw holes, and looks like you are using scaffold boards you need to remove the steel end protectors or when in the future you look to refinish the boards you will expose the steel and rip your sander to pieces
The boat keeps coming along. May I suggest you get your selves a good pair of Kneepads. It will dave you much pain especillay later on in life. Keep up the great videos and hope your project keeps going as well as possible.
Great idea to use scaffold boards. I have used the to build many projects. Why did you not choose to use the ones without the metal banding on the ends? I find those much easier to work with.
remember to waterproof bottom and sides of boards and stagger your seams for strength just saying i built many a thing for over 45 years.. always stagger any seams because the weakest part is where the seam is. the screws you should be using too should be stainless steel to prevent rotting. and and at end of room there should be a nailer gets bulkhead for end floor board to screw too. and as for screws you should have star bit heads or Torx.. not cross or Philips screws heads. they strip way to easy.
Something I don't understand as a non-boat person. When one is stripped down to the seams like this (or when they're built even) why wouldn't people/Builders add spray foam between the ribs for added insulation and potential water leak barrier? My only thought is with the hull covered with spray foam, if you did get a pinhole leak it'd be near impossible to find I guess.
Yep great progress but stop and think a bit .replace screws with stainless no rot ones and as everyone else says insulate under boards and place any wiring and/ or pipe work first ..
Have you considered access to the bilge for inspection and to run cables or place tanks etc. I feel screwing in the sole is a bit premature at this point
You need to leave a small gap between your scaffolding boards and fill the gaps with some caulking... The other boat that i saw using scaffolding boards used some kind of cord?
Wonderful to see progress, boards brilliant! But you are screwing down boards that 'seal off' each compartment from inspection. what if you spring a leak in one section, how will you know. what will simply sit there for ages and rust hull and rot wood. What plans have you got for bilge pump and where will that operate from?
You have done wonders with your boat. What is the plan for the windows that were smashed by the two kids. Were they ever caught? Keep up the good work.😊
Hallo ihr beiden. Ihr solltet für den Boden andere Schrauben nehmen, solche wo das Gewinde bis in die Mitte reicht. Sonst liegen die Bretter nicht eben am Boden auf. Gute Zeit.🤓
Put blacking under the boards to protect the wood from damp issues from the bilge .Great progress once the floors down it all speeds up 👍
I debated as to whether or not to add this comment. First of all, y'all are doing a very good job so far. I am impressed with your vision and work ethic. I look forward to seeing your continued progress. Having said that, I must agree with other comments as to needing to do something to protect your flooring underneath. The area below the floor boards will be moist to wet, that is just a fact of boats. This area will be damp and untreated boards will be a sponge to absorb this moisture or water. Before you go any further, I would highly recommend that you put some type of treatment to the underside and side edges of the boards. Unfortunately, to do this correctly, you really need to take up the boards you have already put down so that you can fully cover the boards. If you choose to do this, take the boards up and stack them in order so that you can put the boards back down in the same order. I am afraid if you do not do this, down the road, you will have a much bigger job replacing boards after you have walls, cabinets, and other things built on top of the floor. Keep it up, you are doing a very good job and I commend you on your efforts and vision.
Even just clear urethane something
You need insulation under the lumber.
@@wilhelmbertram8066 I was thinking about this same thing, but and I don’t know much about these boats, if some how water gets in under the boards and soaked up the insulation. Then what happens?
Great job you Guys!
Scaffold boards are pre treated and last a long time and are extra thick, perfect choice!
Can see what hard work it is but you two have such a great dynamic and know you will get it done!
Really pleased to see some progress and hands on jobs.
Keep the videos coming, best barge on you tube!
Oh and some Barley merch would be amazing 😃
Maybe consider Celotex type foam board insulation? It’s easy to cut and not that expensive. That will definitely act as a damp barrier and reduce cold floor issues. Remember winter water temps! Great idea to use scaffold boards!
I totally feel you…the trips to and from the sawmill, the up and down walking to and from the trailer to the caravan with planks on your shoulders….many broken days, but so worth it
great job
and when you are done with the floor you can draw on the floor where what will be.
believe me that works well and you have a clear overview of the space.
i did that myself when i bought my empty boat.
Brilliant work you two, the thing I find when I've used scaffolding boards is they have a tendency to warp and shrink, after about a year, it's easy to remedy gaps in the boards, just use thin strips of timber a bit larger then the gap, then glue and hammer them in, sand or plane to level, it's nice in a way becuase you can stain them giving contrasting colors
I think that you will regret not having some thinly sprayed on urethane foam insulation on the subfloor to prevent condensation on the cold metal and high humidity interior air once the boat is finished and occupied. I would suggest talking to other boat owners about how they handled water issues. I would also place a series of small bilge pumps under the floor and run the outlets to a common exhaust to provide a means of clearing water that may come in from outside the boat without having to tear up the floor.
Some type of waterproof insulation should have been put under the wood and hopefully space for air to circulate.
Remember any pipes need to be insulated.
Will you stick with an outboard engine or have an inboard engine, maybe think about that before the floor is closed in.
Nice progress! I couldn't tell from the video but hopefully you are leaving gaps for expansion of the sub floor. Boats are not like houses, the steel work moves in the opposite direction to the timber depending on the season. A pound coin edge is a good guide to what is required as a gap. Thats why the interior of boats have so many trim pieces, to cover all the gaps.😂
Agreed. Wood swells and contracts, depending on moisture. Metal flexes occasionally. Expansion is necessary. No moisture seal on the bottom of floor planks will allow them to cup/curl. I love your vision guys. Keep it up. I'm loving the ride.
I am so pleased at your saving of a wonderful old barge. You have undertaken a task that most would find too daunting. You will have attained new skills you never knew you could do and i pray for your continued success. Your doing great, your doing what you want to do in your own way and you will have something amazing to be proud of at the end of it. Keep on smiling and give sausage a cuddle from us 😊. 🐕.
your ace ❤ you work hard and work together well just think of your kids watching this in years to come they will be very proud of hard working mum and dad ❤ well done and thanks for bringing us along on this big big adventure cool
you can get a drill bit that countersinks as well mate, love the idea of the scaffolding planks, will be awesome!
I am so glad to see you are working after the upset the s**** caused you. So demoralising. Keep up the great work. Now, at near 80, I have to live other's dream's. So many thanks for your conrent.
I like the idea of scaffolding boards as a floor, they should be strong and long-lasting.
Great job ! The dog looks very interested in what you guys are doing ! Lol
enjoying the progress, y'all are doin great.. looking forward to the next video.
If you have a prop on the boat and accessories to the inner flange of the prop shaft. How about sticking an electric motor: you won't need much to move; probably get away with a washing machine motor, on the flange and with some simple variable power mechanism you could be mobile. Probably cheaper than outboards, too.
Love watching your progress. Keep up the good work. 🎉
omg love how come you guys have come laying the fload boards is awesome.... can't wait for the next built and you eventually move one.. great Job so far guys...love your work...
One thing i love about you guys, when things go wrong, you laugh about it, and move on. Not many people can do that.
I also had a flat tire with my wheelbarrow every time, bought a solid wheelbarrow wheel is fine never a flat tire again.
I think they sell them in England too.
I am Dutch and live in France and follow you with great pleasure.
I agree with others moisture will be an issue under your floor! But also I see another equally important issue and that is no insulation under it! I would cut thick foam insulation to put down first in between the ribs. You could put blocks on the hull to raise it up if you are worried about water being able to travel to the bilge. Then I would cover it with a moisture barrier. Next step treat the underside of your flooring boards and then screw them down over that.
Great progress you two! Keep up the good work!!
Loving the progress. Finishing the floor’s going to make such a difference.
Don't forget to put a time capsule under the floor
Happy ta see progress for yas .roof n floor.next walls.wow great.lookn forward fa more.nice
May I add my two Ront Essay? I suggest that once you have your floor layout complete, remove them, row by row, one row at a time, and GROOVE them. You can get a cutter for your router, or use a table saw, if you have one. Then rip some ply strips on aforementioned table saw, and joint the floorboards, tongue and groove. Use Balcotan or other PU woodglue. Work your way across in the same pattern. That floor will be so rigid, and when you decide you want to cut access hatches into the bilge, it wont be a problem. As many others have said, Waterproof. Id go so far as to say, lay a polythene sheet down as you do the T&G.
@@maarten_notjustagrip will tongue and groove allow the boards to expand and contract ???
@@PinkLittleElephant there's not going to be much of that. House floorboards are T&G. You don't want dust falling through and trapping any moisture to make rust.
@@maarten_notjustagrip First off, you should paint the bilge to protect against rust. Wood will expand and contract more on a boat because you get greater changes in temperature and humidity. A better way is to allow small gaps between boards and fill these with flexibility caulking like cord.
@@PinkLittleElephant that will work too.
Great load of progress having a floor is where it all starts to come together.Which everway sanded down will look great and the planning / arguments begin.
That’s going to be one solid floor!!
Well done .😉😊😊
Bon courage and stay safe.👍👍👍👍👍
If I lived close to you guys I would of gave chris a hand moving all them boards onto your boat. Well done chris 👏
Floor is looking great 👍🏼
Great new video! I think if you just have a few breathing gaps within the timber flooring, you won't have any condensation problems, so no plastics required...
Good morning from Australia looking forward to the episode 😀
@@nataliekeygan3208 that's awesome! hello there :)
your hysterical determined ill give you that. great effort, good show.
Hi Guys well done that was your best episode ever👍
I once built a horse wagon with very old used oak flooring.
I allowed 1/4" gaps.
It held water very well 😂
On helping you hold those boards to keep them straight is a furniture clamp and then when your past the point the fur 21:53 niture clamp can stretch all you have to do is temporarily screw a board down on top so the clamp has something to hold onto just a suggestion but your doing a good job putting the floor down but your not going to run plumbing and electrical first and if you rubber coated the bottom of the metal floor of the boat you could have put entrance hatches in the floor for access to the plumbing and electrical and also storage in the floor
Thanks for the tip ! We still learning as we go 😃
Going to be interesting to see how much those boards are going to shrink, when you start living in it, average for a soft wood is 4%, so you could end up with as much as 10mm gap between boards,
Hi everyone… I actually have no interest in boats on water or canals, But funny how I keep watching your videos. I find it fun and interesting actually…looking forward to more thanks 😊
Wow that's amazing glad we can be of some entertainment glad to have you aboard
Now that's progress. Well done.
Great progress on your behemoth !!
Wow al most got a floor Guys I'm Excited for you you not alone re tyre Pressure for the wheel barrow wheel as I don't have a clue lol Looking Great thou Nice Progress Thanks
One tip you might try when screwing down floor boards - to keep the tip from pulling out of the screwdriver, try tilting the tip a bit before pulling back, rather than just pulling straight back, It might help. It is annoying, but I think everyone seems to have this problem with screwdriver bits pulling out. Good luck.
@@mikenelson6630 thanks for the tip we will definitely try this
Did you ever catch those horrid boys? They really should be punished for the terrible vandalism. Love your videos! 😍
Great work guys
I'm watching your videos from Brazil, even though I don't understand the language, but this house on this boat will be incredible when this project is finished. I want to see your projects finished. If the message is strange, it's because it was made by Google Translate.
Ich sin ayre wiiteos am noo keen, hier im Brasil, opwool ich ti xprooch net ferxteen, awer tas haus uf tëm xif wërt unklaupich sin wën tas proyekt fërtich is. Ich wil ayre proyekte fërtich siin.
estou acompanhando os videos de vcs, aqui do Brasil, mesmo sem entender o idioma, mas esta casa neste barco será incrivel quando concluido este projeto. quero ver pronto este projetos de vcs.
Pricilla, doing good with the screw gun, proud of you, just like a professional.
Great channel. Love the work you are doing. Maybe remove the metal edge protectors on the scaffold boards so that you get a better fit.
Would have been better to put a centre line down the length of the boat and start there, means you will have a good look as the boards will be lined up and nicely centralised, and easier to keep everything in line and easier to cut in the edge boards .. as a builder I'm looking at it from a builders point of view by the way, not a DIY point of view .. and I think mentioned before, should have protected the underside from damp and condensation.
Great progress guys
I love these videos. Such great progress.
Looking great 👍
Y'all need a 2, will Wilburn? That's got two wheels on the front, which would make it easier to haul them on or one of those garden wagon, slip.But you can set them on top and just pull it along
2 will Wilburn? Two wheeled wheelbarrow.
Nice white steel toe cap safty flip flops for P.P.E 😂 its coming along 👍
Keep up the good work good fitness doing up the boat
We have free air in Australia!! Can’t believe they make you pay for it over there!
There is tax on air over her.🤣
You two are amazing!
£1.50 for air that's inflation 😂.
As with any floor I would have run planks down the Center line and worked outboard, that way any discrepancies will be duplicated and not as obvious but then that will be hind sight to you both as you are cracking on. Don’t forget ventilation, insulation and bilge pumps 😊🇬🇧
In Dallas. Love your videos and look forward to each one!
Awesome! Thank you! We appreciate all the support
I did myself a huge favor and got battery Makita drill and crew driver…best investment event, no more switching between different heads
That's a hell of an undertaking as i admire what your doing but it'll require so much hard work, vision but mostly 💲💲💲
Wow! Air is free at service stations here in Australia!
Regular green Prestone auto antifreeze, painted on the wood until no more will soak in, will prevent dry rot. After it dries, it can be painted or fiberglassed. Wooden boat trick.
Battery drill/screwdriver, angle grinder,and a jigsaw ,,three main hand tools on a boatbuilder /ship write when I started
Stay positive and keep going 🎉🎉🎉
Good morning Priscilla, Chris and the pupper. X
@@susannefoxforcefourpickeri9358 Good morning happy Saturday:)
Hi All, taking the end straps off the ends of the boards is a pain in the arse job I've done that before myself, i wonder who got that job!. Keep going it's a long haul yet.🙂
Agree with all the comments about treating the wood for moisture, also do you need to fit any ballast in the bilge? if so now is the time to do it.. Good luck to the 3 of you.🙂
The wooden planks from fresh cut trees (not aged) and you can already see the edges curl up. Additional moist from below will only make it just worse.
Nice heavy floor 💪, sure you know how heavy, so does that wheel barrow 😅.
Are you not putting any insulation between the flooring and the steel hull.it's going to get cold in the winter.
No spray foam. Are they going to sell this to some poor sucker?
Doing a great job you two good to watch 😂😂😂😂😂😂❤❤
Looks massive inside
Great job😊
Great progress guys, glad you learnt your lesson about showing Fosters on camera😂🤣😂. Sad to read the comments regarding treating the floorboards against rot and you have to rip it up. Be sure to number them so they go back to the same spot after being treated. I feel sorry for you guys having to redo it but glad at the same time because like you I had no idea about it and as I plan to start a small houseboat building venture in Australia I consider that very pertinent information. So, thanks for making the mistake I guess. The scaff planks are a great idea that I might use, however I'll probably just use marine ply then dress it up with parquetry. Give Barley pat for me.
Keep up the great content ❤️
Avoid the houseboat in Aus man - if the croc don't ya the bull shark will
@@ocean686
Bull sharks don't come into the waterways around here because of the hammerhead "nest" where the river meets the ocean. Also crocs are about 1000km north of here where the tropical waters are better suited to them being cold blooded, even in summer.
Additionally I'll be on the water, not in it. Also I've been a Surf Life Saver and the only shark I've seen here is a wobbegong shark.
There's an old saying "It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear to be a fool than to open it and remove all doubt"
Tip - proof read before you post.
Have a nice day🙂
I would countersink and bung those screw holes. Make it a proper cabin sole
Good progress !
Your boards will expand and contract in that environment, if you make them that tight to your bulk heads your boards will warp, and if your sanding them down you should counter sink and fill the screw holes, and looks like you are using scaffold boards you need to remove the steel end protectors or when in the future you look to refinish the boards you will expose the steel and rip your sander to pieces
Great progress
I'm concerned about untreated wood as the flooring in a marine environment. Good luck.
I think scaffold planks are pressure treated buy extra coatings are a bonus.
The boat keeps coming along. May I suggest you get your selves a good pair of Kneepads. It will dave you much pain especillay later on in life. Keep up the great videos and hope your project keeps going as well as possible.
Haha 😀 fantastic intro!! 😀
Great idea to use scaffold boards. I have used the to build many projects. Why did you not choose to use the ones without the metal banding on the ends? I find those much easier to work with.
Spray a touch of WD40 on the screws before screwing them in. Much easier.
remember to waterproof bottom and sides of boards and stagger your seams for strength just saying i built many a thing for over 45 years.. always stagger any seams because the weakest part is where the seam is. the screws you should be using too should be stainless steel to prevent rotting. and and at end of room there should be a nailer gets bulkhead for end floor board to screw too. and as for screws you should have star bit heads or Torx.. not cross or Philips screws heads. they strip way to easy.
Something I don't understand as a non-boat person. When one is stripped down to the seams like this (or when they're built even) why wouldn't people/Builders add spray foam between the ribs for added insulation and potential water leak barrier? My only thought is with the hull covered with spray foam, if you did get a pinhole leak it'd be near impossible to find I guess.
I used a laser line to get the perfect lines, worked like a bomb
and work from the centre out
Yep great progress but stop and think a bit .replace screws with stainless no rot ones and as everyone else says insulate under boards and place any wiring and/ or pipe work first ..
Have you considered access to the bilge for inspection and to run cables or place tanks etc. I feel screwing in the sole is a bit premature at this point
Buy several drills that you can have one for each job.
That would be the dream 😊 we have an impact to screw in and drill to drill just takes us a little longer 🙈
What was that remark about Chris and the ballast? I watched you squeeze into the boat, lol.
Looking good but don’t you need to put insulation under the floor?
You need to leave a small gap between your scaffolding boards and fill the gaps with some caulking... The other boat that i saw using scaffolding boards used some kind of cord?
Wonderful to see progress, boards brilliant! But you are screwing down boards that 'seal off' each compartment from inspection. what if you spring a leak in one section, how will you know. what will simply sit there for ages and rust hull and rot wood. What plans have you got for bilge pump and where will that operate from?
You have done wonders with your boat. What is the plan for the windows that were smashed by the two kids. Were they ever caught? Keep up the good work.😊
Hallo ihr beiden. Ihr solltet für den Boden andere Schrauben nehmen, solche wo das Gewinde bis in die Mitte reicht. Sonst liegen die Bretter nicht eben am Boden auf. Gute Zeit.🤓