Vince, I was watching another of your videos last night and was telling my wife how impressed I was and how far you've come in the last 10 months. From your diagnostic skills to your soldering skills. I remember your first videos w/ the hot air station and kapton tape and now how today your end result is very professional. Well done my friend, keep it up!
Vince, that SK34A is most likely for reverse voltage protection to prevent damage from someone using the wrong power adapter. Oh, and Schottky is pronounced "Shot-key".
@@Mymatevince I can recomend Electrolube SCC3 clear conformal coating ...I've used it many many times on equipment that operates outdoors..hasn't let me down yet...Also I'm impressed with you're thirst for knowledge.
Whenever I click on your "trying to fix" videos, I hope for a long one. Always dissappointed to see an easy fix. I guess I just like to see you work hard for your videos :)
Great fix, Vince! I love the jubilation in your voice when the end result is a success. I'd love to see a revisit with it working with the remote, Alexa etc please
Great fix Vince 👍🏼 I have to say I enjoy these videos where you don’t have a spare to compare with. Really shows your problem solving on a more difficult and technical way
I woke up this morning, opened my browser, checked youtube, noticed I didnt push the like button on this video when I watched it last night. Shame on me. Luckily the problem can be easily rectified. HITTING THAT LIKE BUTTON REALLY HARD!
Hi Vince, just wanted to thank you for inspiring me to fix my own robotic vacuum cleaner. Wasn't anything near as difficult as yours as all I did was replace the battery (and soldered the correct connector on the new battery) but still, it's fixed. Thanks!
I learned so much from watching this video. And, I fixed my "drop sensor" problem. Just needed removing/cleaning all around (bottom and top) my drop sensors and got rid of my beeping problem.
the bit about diodes is simple: if you use a geranium diode with a forward voltage drop of 0.6 volt it is with a current of 3 amps P=UxI 0.6x3= 1.8 watts of heat. with a scottky diode with a forward voltage of 0.2 volt is ofc 0.2x3 = 0.6 watts so less heat to dissipate into the PCB. So, now for the fast recovery, simply said, imagine this: there is a guy in front of your door and you let him in, the taller the guy the more volt, the heavier the guy the more amps, the bigger legs, the quicker he is and the lighter, stronger the gate the faster you can close it behind him and more force of him hitting it the door can handle. So with a geranium diode, the door is large, made of simple OSB on an iron frame, it is big, heavy and takes a few seconds to close. 230v 50 hz no problem, the time the guy (230 V 5 Amps 50Hz) turns around the door is shut (simple bridge rectifier) now you get a guy bin trough a gate already, so 300v somewhat DC 1A 150Hz) so the guy is tall, light but he reacts pretty fast, so i need a gate that is light so i can close it fast, needs to be tall for him, but does not has to be strong. so aluminum with some plywood should be good. now comes switching voltage, like switching power supply's, 340 volt 10kHz 3 Amps. Now we get tall guy's who are heavy and fast as feck. now we need a diode what has a high current, fast recovery and is strong with reverse voltage. so a gate what is 3,4 meters tall, 3 meters wide, but can close in a few microseconds after they past the gate. Also, remember with witch each bang to a gate a bit of heat is generated . I hope my real simple explanation of diodes helps a bit.
I think you meant standard silicon diode has forward voltage of 0.6 volts. Germanium diodes have a forward voltage of about 0.3 volts. I agree with the rest of your comment.
@@WildSccotsman you are absolutely right, something about Wochenend und saufen The doide on top next to the connector is an diode to kill spikes it does it slow so it is an cheap silicon diode
Vince , As you buy mostly from Ebay ,surch for "SMD sample book" you have them for resistors and caps and diodes" You will always have the most common spare smd parts for a reasonable price to do your testing. Can find them cheaper on Ali if you want. just buy what you think need the most and buy it and the next month you can buy the caps book ond so on .they don't take much space and you always have something that fit. And buy the 0805 ,these are the most common size ,and if you have to replace a 0605 you can mostly fit a 0805 and the other way to ,if it is a bigger size . If it works you can always buy a correct size part or leave it in. Nice video again.
Hi Vince, such an entertaining video thank you! That big black component marked R 400 (around 33:35 ) is a current sensing resistor. It is a special kind of 1ohm resistor with a high power rating (hence its size). In this case it is being used as a reference to be able to provide feedback to the microcontroller about how much charge is left in the battery. ( By knowing the Resistance of the reference - 1 ohm - and by reading a current value - Ohms law you can be used to calculate the voltage of the battery pack. Great video! would love to see more repairs like this one!
Schottky diode is basically a diode but has a couple of differences compared to a "normal" silicone diode. First Schottky diode has a lower voltage drop, meaning that when you replaced Schottky with a silicon diode you got slightly lower output voltage. You lost around 0.3V. Also, Schottky opens faster. Diodes do not open immediately after forward voltage is applied. It takes some time and this time is shorter for Schottky. It can be important in circuits requiring a better reaction time. However, Schottky diodes are more sensitive to voltage and current higher than their rated values. And you were right about parameters. Forward current is the current which can flow through it safely, and reverse voltage is voltage which this diode will safely block. Going over any of these parameters will most definitely kill it. And yes, you can relatively safely replace a diode with another one rated for slightly higher values. For anyone wondering how to pronounce it without breaking their tongue: ua-cam.com/video/yxitM1QWEzk/v-deo.html
This video is very timely for me because I'm waiting for a Eufy 11 in the mail that I bought off ebay last week which has a front bumper stuck error. R147 appears to be a resistor used for current sense. It's common to have a small value precision resistor in series with a supply so that a voltage measurement across can be used to calculate the current through the supply (I = V/R). Those large package resistors which measure a short are typical because the small resistance does not draw very much power from the supply.
This is the first video I have seen of yours and I really enjoyed it. It was so suspenseful for me and I was so excited when you got it working. Great job!!!
It looks very similar to the Proscenic 850T, I quite enjoy buying these from boot fairs and fixing them. Bit of a hobby! I have a problem with mine after 10 seconds saying fan error. Still trying to work this out but your video is good to teach me how to use my multimeter, which I also bought at a boot fair.
Great video!! It won't go back home because you picked it up and started it in the kitchen. It needs to start itself from the dock in order to find its way back. There are sensors in the vacuum itself and the dock, that's how it knows how to get back to it. It will definitely make its way throughout your home as long as the transitions from room to room aren't too high. I have several dogs and cats and the robot vacuum is a lifesaver. It runs every week day and gets all the fur. I really only have to do a clean myself once a month with the robot running daily.
I had one of these briefly. It did clean very well, but I needed a vacuum with home mapping so I returned it and got a Roborock S6. The bouncing all over the place would be fine in a smaller house, but would probably never get everywhere in a larger home. It does start to go home when the battery is low and slows down the brushes, but it has no idea where home is until it makes a pass in front of the charger so it could still go off in the wrong direction for a while. I suppose it has enough battery power to make it in most cases if it's not too far away.
Another great video! something to try when trying to remove the corrosion use a little distilled water with baking soda to a paste then have a go with a little scrub
Have a few different items to complete a few repairs. A screen for your broken TV. A Annetta rechargeable toy. Enjoying this video got to 15:45 , need to turn off, and go to work, will watch rest tonight it's 8:06 am at the moment.
Nice one Vince. Lucky the water damage only took out the diode. I would probably give it another clean with IPA if and when you replace the diode for the correct one. Really nice it wasn't too difficult especially when the seller obviously lied about the problem.
Mine broke after 6 months of use. One of the motors lost it's gears so now its making an awful lot of noise. It did awesome while it worked though. Nice quiet and fast robotic vacuum.
@@vBDKv yeah I’m a bit worried about long term usage from some comments I read but I’ll keep my fingers crossed cause for now it’s doing perfectly! Would be pretty bad of it didn’t at the very least work for 2 years at that price...
@@YoshMaster Luckily the customer service is pretty awesome. They'll likely send you a replacement (if within warranty of course) without you having to send your old unit back. I'm expecting my replacement next week. They initially wanted me to send the defective unit back, but it was just way too expensive for me to do so, so they just sent a new one. So nothing to worry about, they actually do care about their customers.
Best trying to fix in a while, I truly appreciated this one. So obviously I am all in favor of a revisit when the diode comes. Thanks Vince for another hour and change of quality entertainment!
Fanastic job! Awesome pickup!!! To pull a current through that PSU (see my Neo Geo AES PSU repair - the most recent one). Using ohms law you can calculate a resistor size (ohm and wattage) and connect it up to draw whatever current you want to pull. That shiny-ness is a conformal coating! It's pronounced "Shot-key" - I always struggle with that too lol, I bloomin well call em Scotty diodes :o) That diode is going to be there for reverse polarity protection (probably). Uprating it as you suggest (assuming it was the lower rated part originally) will likely be fine. As you saw schottky diodes switch faster (that's useful when you want to protect parts of a circuit or get a quicker response to the signal going through it. And the lower forward voltage drop is simple - Take a 1N4001 diode for example, I think that has a 0.7v drop, so if you feed say 5v into its anode, on the cathode side you will measure 4.3v. (it drops by that amount). On schottky diodes its typically less, eg. 0.6v, 0.3v or even 0.15v (like the diodes I often use for CR-2032 mods where NiCads were originally used). It will make little difference to something like the area this is used on this vaccuum.
The next thing I do often after watching a Vince video is look for helpful comments like yours GadgetUK so thanks for the tips:) Oh and I subscribed to you.
Vince I just wanted to give this video a little comment it actually helped me fix one I bought that was not working (not the same model or even make).... I had to replace a bearing on the roller motor :) works great!
Great video Vince. By the way, the "R"400 (I don't think that's an R), is likely a PTC/PPTC resettable fuse, or polyfuse, surface mount obviously. They usually have the dimples on both ends. Different manufacturers have different markings, but I'd say you have a 400mA one on your hands.
i.e. something along these lines: tny.im/kBg People have said that it could be a current sense resistor, and while I've not come across one like that myself, I cannot discount the possibility.
Great fix and would like to get your feelings in a later video about this vac. I think it is kinda a crap robot vacuum. It has no suction so it is depending on the bottom brush to fling the dirt into the bin in the back. The price I see it online for new you can get other vacs with a camera so it knows where it is and have an actual vacuum pump to do more then just sweep up surface dirt. I have watched to many VacuumWars videos on youtube so I think I know more then I do :)
Bang and Olafson were the dogs danglies once upon a time, as a kid we had this huge B&O black and white BeoVision and it was all curvy edges and funky push buttons and had a very early IR remote. BeoCentre's were the best of the lot too, the one I had you had remote speakers in every room and a little thing clipped to your belt and as you walked into a room the music would fade from the other room and increase in the room you were going into and each speaker acting as a relay for your remote sending back to the main unit. I even had a speaker in the loo as nothing like a bit of Who in the loo hehe
I'd be careful with that big diode you put in, so you don't rip the pads off. Anyway, I didn't expect to be so entertained by a vacuum cleaner repair video. Kudos.
"shot key" diode is used because its fast. it'll block reverse current fast enough to protect sensitive microprocessors and such down stream. the low forward voltage drop just means in the way you would expect current to flow, there isn't much drop across the device. Meaning its efficient/less heat.
Agreed with schotkey description....add....the forward voltage you measured was 0.2 volts hence low forward voltage. A standard diode will have a voltage drop somewhere between 0.6 to 0.4 volts.
My Eufy 30C has 'clean drop sensor' error 3 beeps and flashing red. Do you know of any way to bypass these sensors on the circuit board. I've attempted unplugging them but same error. I feel the issue maybe deeper into the circuit board as tried looking at them through a camera and can't see any light emitting from them at all so appear dead. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated as not a lot online for this model showing repairs of this sort.
I have watched now 2 uploads of you Vince, I am enjoying them and I do know more about the robot vac cleaners now. Pittely my issue is not resolved (yet)
It's a good idea to use a shottky diodes were there's supposed to be one. A normal diode will have a higher forward voltage drop, which will cause partial loss of power. In your case the (lost) diode acts as a reverse voltage protection.
Great job! I have bought 3 robotic vacuums at thrift stores for between $9 and $17 each. Fixed every one of them! The one I had with water damage, I ended up replacing the main board as I could not get the solder to stick to the corroded pads. Best part was that a replacement main board was only $30. Maybe some helpful advice. The brush should not have been spinning like that when you turned it on. When checking power supply voltages, as long as it is within +/- 10% it is good. Mine dont have wifi connectivity so I am working on modding them to make them work over wifi ;)
It's pronounced Shot Key, and the forward voltage (VF) is how much the voltage drops by when conducting, same as LEDs, so 0.6V VF means i you have a ~5V supply with a diode it will be ~4.4V at the other side of the diode. It is better to overrate the diode current than underrate it if it used as reverse polarity protection, there should (in good practice) be a fuse that will catch any overcurrent. Oh and the waterproof layer over the board is called conformal coating usually an acryllic protective layer to stop water ingress, or supposed to, not sure what happened to that board.
Soldering skills is not your best skill, I'm sorry to say that, but it's amazing that it works after this treatment! But anyway congratulations with it.
A major design flaw with the battery - it consists of 4s 18650, namely cheap CMICR18650F8M7, Candy Mountain - and a non-balancing BMS, the lack of balance is a key. Sooner or later, one of the cells would drop too low and it will never be properly charged. Once one of the cells reaches 4.17V, the BMS (20pin BM3451) disconnects the charging process/mosfet. The robot measures the voltage -- too low (as some of the cells can easily be below 3.2V) and starts 4x beeps relentlessly. The fix is removing the heat shrink wrap, measuring the cells directly and balancing them individually... till the next time. A possible fix would be adding a balancing circuit but there is not much clearance for a mod. OTOH, a great video - not so shabby soldering for a person w/o electronics background. One more note: the 10.2V at 11:42, is not the charged voltage of the battery but the BMS not opening its discharging MOSFET. (due to to low voltage on some of the cells), 10.2 on a Li-Ion would be over discharge (~2.5V) in the dangerous, unstable chemistry zone.
I've been watching your videos for a long time now Vince you've come a long way and you've improved over time which is great your content has always been good and it makes me come back for more soon i'll have no videos to watch on your channel. 😎😁
Nice fix! A Schottky Diode (pronounced Shot-key) as you said, has a lower voltage drop than other diodes. What that means is that when, say, 9 volts is passed through a typical silicon diode there will be a voltage drop of 0.6 to 0.7 Volts which results in a lower output voltage (after passing through the diode) of 8.3V to 8.4V whereas, with a Schottky diode the typical voltage drop would be between 0.3V to 0.4V and the output voltage would therefore be between 8.6V and 8.7V. Very important if the circuit requires diode protection but relies on a voltage of not much less than the original input voltage. Hope that makes sense.
Good fix, but it seems that the side motor spinning before it starts means that there is a shorted mosfet for that motor so it will not turn off until you hit the off switch. you should be able to compare it with the other side. Hope that helps.
R400 is a shunt resistor. It usual low resistance. It use to measure the current been consumed by the system. And the glossy thing that they put on the board is a conformal coating, it use to protect components and the board from corrosion.
To be a regulated power supply, it sure was off by a decent amount. Maybe that's normal when they're higher voltage? Most of the lower-voltage regulated supplies I've tested have been pretty spot-on even with no load.
Shot-Key - Faster Switching refers to how quickly the diode 'blocks' the flow of current when the voltage is reversed. Forward voltage drop is the voltage you would measure across the diode when it is conducting (when current is flowing). A lower voltage drop is useful in power supply and rectifier circuits. It's typically the voltage you see using Diode Test with your multimeter.
The seller used another account to snipe you. They wanted to find your high bid to drive up price. Saves fees on buy it now listings. Ps love the vids, now hooked.
Just watching the video, and that's exactly what happened. Crooked sellers raising the price of the things they are selling. It's an actual crime in real world auctions, I'm not sure how it would work on the internet. There should be a simple way for Ebay to see who is connected through which IP address, but that would cut into their profits, wouldn't it.
@@FieroFats the IP does not work when using either a snipe web site, which ebay allow with the stupid cover up it's not the last bidder, but the highest that wins. True if the highest paid up. Been going on for years, even a report topic for it but they always say no proof.
Schottky diode is a fast switch diode. That you need a fast diode there is doubtful, so any diode with these specs and above is Ok . You are correct as to why they use components in manufacture, a penny less makes a difference, but that also has to conform to what is available and how you fit it.
Well Done Vince another great little fix. Dont think one of those would last in my house, the cats would have it for Breakfast lol. Keep up the good work. Mick 👍🍻
I seriously love your "trying to fix" videos Vince 😁 If there is one thing i would give you a thumbs down on, that would have to be because of the huge amount of solder you are using on some of your components, it's like you are drowning them with solder 😉 Ofcourse they're not going anywhere, but still, try practising adding less solder! Keep it up 👊
I saw quite a few components missing and one resistor was hanging off between a tiny bridge of solder near the second SK34A diode. Looks like someone has done a hatchet job to the poor thing :(
Great stuff Vince. I recently took my Samsung robovac apart to clean it and install a new rotary brush motor that gave up on me. Nice things to work on. Now I noticed something but it might be the video playing tricks on me, but my side brushes turn inward and not outward. So they kind of sweep the dirt to the middle in front of the “nose” of the robot. Yours seem to spin outward but again it might be i saw that wrong. Now I got an offer, I have a Phillips saeco coffee machine and for some reason the bean grinder is spinning so weak it stops grinding and shows a fault on the display. Since I am a coffee addict I bought me a new machine but maybe it is something for you to take apart? I do not know what the shipping is to the uk because it is a quite heavy and big machine but I need to know if you are interested first. It is a saeco intelia evo hd8753/95. And no I do not need it back after haha
Cheers Etienne. I think the brushes do sweep inwards but I will double check. I am expecting a delivery of 3 faulty coffee machines so I will pass on your kind offer. Thanks for the offer :-)
The main diference between a schotky diode and a normal one is that a normal diode will drop the voltage more than a schotky one. If you put a diode on a 5V line the other side of the diode will have 4.4V because a normal diode usually drops 0.6v while a schotky diode will drop only 0.3v. Also they are good for high frequency switching. If you use your multimeter on diode test on the right way around it will show on the display the drop out voltage, something like 0.332v for schotky or 0.607v for normal diodes.
These things are great, especially when you have a cat that loves to drag cat litter down the hallway every day, it saves you having to get the big vacuum cleaner out all the time. It will probably only return itself to the base station if it starts there, it will map the path it took so it knows how to get back, a bit like how ants find their way back to their colony. If you start it manually in a random spot it might just finish in a random spot but I believe more expensive ones can send a signal out to the base station to find out where it is, so I could go either way with this one. You should test it near the top of stairs to make sure the drop sensors are working correctly and it doesn't just drive down them! It will look like it's taking a random path when you first use it but again with more expensive ones they will map the entire floor so they can take a much less random approach once its learnt the layout of the house.
Cheers Adam, this one definitely has the drop sensors working as I tested it at the end of the revisit video. I don't think this one maps the house, it looks very similar to versions half the price on eBay, it would be interesting to see if they are the same on the inside :-)
@@Mymatevince Amazon have their own brand of these which will clearly be a rebrand of another model from someone, I'd be interested to know what's inside those ones! Definitely looking forward to that job lot though!
Good job Vince, i convinced my dad to get one of these for the house and it works a treat. Don't know why the one brush was spinning when before you started it, doesn't usually do that but at least it works now lol
@Vince Good review, thanks for sharing. May I suggest you should refrain from placing bids until the final last few seconds of the auction. You'll only pay the last bid amount and not your highest bid. You're less likely to be outbid and doesn't show your interest to others, nor prematurely raise the bid, which only prompts other users to increase their bid early too. This tactic worked on the vast majority of auctions I've bid on and won.
Did you not find anything under Google image search Vince regards to the main board . You may of been able to spot that diode of the image and got a better idea of which one it might be . Loving this video those robot vacuums always remind me of robot wars
Very nicely done video of troubleshooting this unit and taking us through all your steps! I’ve got one of these I’m working on myself that was given to me and I’m stumped on something. Im trying to figure out how to source the bigger rectifier that is just above the one that was missing on your board? BTW the one that was missing on your board I can confirm it is the sk14. The only thing it says is “MCC LZ” and I saw when you were testing it the reading was .663 at 40:07. It read 0 for me so I removed it from the board and it reads 0 going either direction off the board as well. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Keep up the awesome repair videos!
you can charge a 18650 safely with a power supply if you set it to nr of cells * 4.1V. its 4.2 max but to keep it a bit on the safe side. Additionally, you can limit the current to 0.5A
Hi great video and much appreciated. Just wondering if you could help me. I replaced one of the side brush motors. The motor works fine but like most of the reviews about the replacement mounting screws holes they didn’t match up I had to leave one of the three screws out. The machine works fine except now when it parks on the charger I don’t get the orange light. Something has happened after I reassembled the unit. Please do you have any ideas. Thank you again.
Thank you for the great vid, the voltage drop on the diodes is a lost of voltage, if you put 12 volts one end, you will get 11.4 on a .6 lost, the schotky Diode has less off a drop, 12 volts in 11.8 volts out 😏
Looks like you put too much solder on 1 of the joints and maybe it bridged. Great fix Vince. Very impressed. If it is remote control then give it to your son as a toy and he can hover at the same time. Does this machine remember the room layout? It seemed uncertain at 1st and later it went right next to the wall. Will you give this a name or just call it the automatic hoover? On another note, the seller would have been fully aware and trying to offload water damaged goods. More fool them. Well done.
Radio controlled hoover, I like your thinking Emma :-) This one is called Frank and I don't think he maps the room but he definitely heads towards the edges of the room and then works his way around the perimeter. He is quite relaxing to watch for some reason :-)
@@Mymatevince Ive had a look on Eb ay and saw that some of these 'hoovers' cost only £6.88 new. Very tempted . . might be worth buying just for the parts.
Vince, I was watching another of your videos last night and was telling my wife how impressed I was and how far you've come in the last 10 months. From your diagnostic skills to your soldering skills. I remember your first videos w/ the hot air station and kapton tape and now how today your end result is very professional. Well done my friend, keep it up!
yeah, just made a comment around this after spotting his sub count then scrolling down to see this comment
Thank you so much :-)
@@Mymatevince thank you. look forward to seeing your new videos pop up. At this point you are teaching me things. All this in ten months, way to go!
，
@@daveglo100 kkr
Loved the excitement you had when your doorbell rang for the B&O delivery. Normally, persons aren't so happy to receive a defective product.
The coating on the board is called conformal coating. The liquid damage would probably be a lot worse without it.
Thanks for the info :-)
One of the most pleasing things I have watched in months. 👍 Definitely worth a revisit.
I especially enjoy the videos where you solve the issue(s) and bring something back to life! Congrats, Vince!
Vince, that SK34A is most likely for reverse voltage protection to prevent damage from someone using the wrong power adapter.
Oh, and Schottky is pronounced "Shot-key".
Thank you :-)
@@Mymatevince I can recomend Electrolube SCC3 clear conformal coating ...I've used it many many times on equipment that operates outdoors..hasn't let me down yet...Also I'm impressed with you're thirst for knowledge.
ijaygee1 scotch key is the key to unlock your minibar 😹 cheers
Whenever I click on your "trying to fix" videos, I hope for a long one. Always dissappointed to see an easy fix.
I guess I just like to see you work hard for your videos :)
Great fix, Vince! I love the jubilation in your voice when the end result is a success. I'd love to see a revisit with it working with the remote, Alexa etc please
Me also
Fantastic fix - these things are fun to have but way too expensive to buy new.
Well done!
Great fix Vince 👍🏼 I have to say I enjoy these videos where you don’t have a spare to compare with. Really shows your problem solving on a more difficult and technical way
I woke up this morning, opened my browser, checked youtube, noticed I didnt push the like button on this video when I watched it last night. Shame on me. Luckily the problem can be easily rectified. HITTING THAT LIKE BUTTON REALLY HARD!
Haha, thank you Nandi :-)
Hi Vince, just wanted to thank you for inspiring me to fix my own robotic vacuum cleaner.
Wasn't anything near as difficult as yours as all I did was replace the battery (and soldered the correct connector on the new battery) but still, it's fixed.
Thanks!
I learned so much from watching this video. And, I fixed my "drop sensor" problem. Just needed removing/cleaning all around (bottom and top) my drop sensors and got rid of my beeping problem.
Really enjoyed this one, Vince. And I agree, that residue seems to be a protective coating likely to guard against casual exposure to moisture.
Well done Vince, nice fix and thoroughly enjoyable to watch.
Thanks Mike👌
the bit about diodes is simple: if you use a geranium diode with a forward voltage drop of 0.6 volt it is with a current of 3 amps P=UxI 0.6x3= 1.8 watts of heat. with a scottky diode with a forward voltage of 0.2 volt is ofc 0.2x3 = 0.6 watts so less heat to dissipate into the PCB.
So, now for the fast recovery, simply said, imagine this: there is a guy in front of your door and you let him in, the taller the guy the more volt, the heavier the guy the more amps, the bigger legs, the quicker he is and the lighter, stronger the gate the faster you can close it behind him and more force of him hitting it the door can handle.
So with a geranium diode, the door is large, made of simple OSB on an iron frame, it is big, heavy and takes a few seconds to close. 230v 50 hz no problem, the time the guy (230 V 5 Amps 50Hz) turns around the door is shut (simple bridge rectifier) now you get a guy bin trough a gate already, so 300v somewhat DC 1A 150Hz) so the guy is tall, light but he reacts pretty fast, so i need a gate that is light so i can close it fast, needs to be tall for him, but does not has to be strong. so aluminum with some plywood should be good. now comes switching voltage, like switching power supply's, 340 volt 10kHz 3 Amps. Now we get tall guy's who are heavy and fast as feck. now we need a diode what has a high current, fast recovery and is strong with reverse voltage. so a gate what is 3,4 meters tall, 3 meters wide, but can close in a few microseconds after they past the gate. Also, remember with witch each bang to a gate a bit of heat is generated . I hope my real simple explanation of diodes helps a bit.
I think you meant standard silicon diode has forward voltage of 0.6 volts. Germanium diodes have a forward voltage of about 0.3 volts. I agree with the rest of your comment.
@@WildSccotsman you are absolutely right, something about Wochenend und saufen
The doide on top next to the connector is an diode to kill spikes it does it slow so it is an cheap silicon diode
Vince ,
As you buy mostly from Ebay ,surch for "SMD sample book" you have them for resistors and caps and diodes"
You will always have the most common spare smd parts for a reasonable price to do your testing.
Can find them cheaper on Ali if you want.
just buy what you think need the most and buy it and the next month you can buy the caps book ond so on .they don't take much space and you always have something that fit.
And buy the 0805 ,these are the most common size ,and if you have to replace a 0605 you can mostly fit a 0805 and the other way to ,if it is a bigger size .
If it works you can always buy a correct size part or leave it in.
Nice video again.
Hi Vince, such an entertaining video thank you! That big black component marked R 400 (around 33:35 ) is a current sensing resistor. It is a special kind of 1ohm resistor with a high power rating (hence its size). In this case it is being used as a reference to be able to provide feedback to the microcontroller about how much charge is left in the battery. ( By knowing the Resistance of the reference - 1 ohm - and by reading a current value - Ohms law you can be used to calculate the voltage of the battery pack. Great video! would love to see more repairs like this one!
Brilliant info. Thank you :-)
Schottky diode is basically a diode but has a couple of differences compared to a "normal" silicone diode. First Schottky diode has a lower voltage drop, meaning that when you replaced Schottky with a silicon diode you got slightly lower output voltage. You lost around 0.3V. Also, Schottky opens faster. Diodes do not open immediately after forward voltage is applied. It takes some time and this time is shorter for Schottky. It can be important in circuits requiring a better reaction time. However, Schottky diodes are more sensitive to voltage and current higher than their rated values.
And you were right about parameters. Forward current is the current which can flow through it safely, and reverse voltage is voltage which this diode will safely block. Going over any of these parameters will most definitely kill it. And yes, you can relatively safely replace a diode with another one rated for slightly higher values.
For anyone wondering how to pronounce it without breaking their tongue: ua-cam.com/video/yxitM1QWEzk/v-deo.html
Thanks Andrews for explaining it in a simple easy to understand way :-)
This video is very timely for me because I'm waiting for a Eufy 11 in the mail that I bought off ebay last week which has a front bumper stuck error.
R147 appears to be a resistor used for current sense. It's common to have a small value precision resistor in series with a supply so that a voltage measurement across can be used to calculate the current through the supply (I = V/R). Those large package resistors which measure a short are typical because the small resistance does not draw very much power from the supply.
This is the first video I have seen of yours and I really enjoyed it. It was so suspenseful for me and I was so excited when you got it working. Great job!!!
It looks very similar to the Proscenic 850T, I quite enjoy buying these from boot fairs and fixing them. Bit of a hobby! I have a problem with mine after 10 seconds saying fan error. Still trying to work this out but your video is good to teach me how to use my multimeter, which I also bought at a boot fair.
Great video!! It won't go back home because you picked it up and started it in the kitchen. It needs to start itself from the dock in order to find its way back. There are sensors in the vacuum itself and the dock, that's how it knows how to get back to it. It will definitely make its way throughout your home as long as the transitions from room to room aren't too high. I have several dogs and cats and the robot vacuum is a lifesaver. It runs every week day and gets all the fur. I really only have to do a clean myself once a month with the robot running daily.
Thanks for the info :-)
Hi Vince! Love your videos. The Schottky is pronounced "Shot-key". Just thought I'd let you know for future videos!
Excellent, thank you for taking the time to post. Helped us immensely to find where a cable went.
I had one of these briefly. It did clean very well, but I needed a vacuum with home mapping so I returned it and got a Roborock S6. The bouncing all over the place would be fine in a smaller house, but would probably never get everywhere in a larger home. It does start to go home when the battery is low and slows down the brushes, but it has no idea where home is until it makes a pass in front of the charger so it could still go off in the wrong direction for a while. I suppose it has enough battery power to make it in most cases if it's not too far away.
Great job Vince! Now sit your cat on top of it, turn it on, record, and then add your video to the millions of other cat videos here on UA-cam.
Another great video! something to try when trying to remove the corrosion use a little distilled water with baking soda to a paste then have a go with a little scrub
Your subs skyrocketed congrats 500k, 1mil around the corner 👏👏👏 🚀
Thank you Paul, you're a good guy :-)
1 year later and halfway there !
Made up with this one Vince, love seeing you bringing life back to things that would otherwise be thrown away. You're an inspiration
Have a few different items to complete a few repairs.
A screen for your broken TV.
A Annetta rechargeable toy.
Enjoying this video got to 15:45 , need to turn off, and go to work, will watch rest tonight it's 8:06 am at the moment.
Nice one Vince. Lucky the water damage only took out the diode. I would probably give it another clean with IPA if and when you replace the diode for the correct one. Really nice it wasn't too difficult especially when the seller obviously lied about the problem.
Thanks Scotsman :-)
I actually bought a Eufy S11 last week because of your videos on this brand haha I’m very happy and impressed at how good it is for the price!
Mine broke after 6 months of use. One of the motors lost it's gears so now its making an awful lot of noise. It did awesome while it worked though. Nice quiet and fast robotic vacuum.
@@vBDKv yeah I’m a bit worried about long term usage from some comments I read but I’ll keep my fingers crossed cause for now it’s doing perfectly! Would be pretty bad of it didn’t at the very least work for 2 years at that price...
@@YoshMaster Luckily the customer service is pretty awesome. They'll likely send you a replacement (if within warranty of course) without you having to send your old unit back. I'm expecting my replacement next week. They initially wanted me to send the defective unit back, but it was just way too expensive for me to do so, so they just sent a new one. So nothing to worry about, they actually do care about their customers.
@@vBDKv cool good to know!
@@YoshMaster It just arrived. Now charging :)
I was repairing my own 4 times beeping robovac while watching this video - luckily mine just needed a good clean. What a coincidence.
Best trying to fix in a while, I truly appreciated this one. So obviously I am all in favor of a revisit when the diode comes. Thanks Vince for another hour and change of quality entertainment!
Thanks Mr Keebs, I loved doing this one :-)
My Mate VINCE I can tell 😊👍
Nicely done Vince, very enjoyable watch 👍
Brilliant, couldn’t believe it actually worked. Got a massive bargain there
well done on the fix vince a revisit would be great to see how its got on
I'm sure someone already mentioned it but it looks like component on c94 was missing as well. You're the best, keep it up.
Fanastic job! Awesome pickup!!! To pull a current through that PSU (see my Neo Geo AES PSU repair - the most recent one). Using ohms law you can calculate a resistor size (ohm and wattage) and connect it up to draw whatever current you want to pull. That shiny-ness is a conformal coating! It's pronounced "Shot-key" - I always struggle with that too lol, I bloomin well call em Scotty diodes :o) That diode is going to be there for reverse polarity protection (probably). Uprating it as you suggest (assuming it was the lower rated part originally) will likely be fine. As you saw schottky diodes switch faster (that's useful when you want to protect parts of a circuit or get a quicker response to the signal going through it. And the lower forward voltage drop is simple - Take a 1N4001 diode for example, I think that has a 0.7v drop, so if you feed say 5v into its anode, on the cathode side you will measure 4.3v. (it drops by that amount). On schottky diodes its typically less, eg. 0.6v, 0.3v or even 0.15v (like the diodes I often use for CR-2032 mods where NiCads were originally used). It will make little difference to something like the area this is used on this vaccuum.
The next thing I do often after watching a Vince video is look for helpful comments like yours GadgetUK so thanks for the tips:) Oh and I subscribed to you.
@@ianofliverpool7701 Thanks, much appreciated =D
Brilliant as per usual Gadget. Nice one:-) I will check out your Neo Geo AES PSU repair, thank you :-)
Vince I just wanted to give this video a little comment it actually helped me fix one I bought that was not working (not the same model or even make).... I had to replace a bearing on the roller motor :) works great!
You've come a long long way, good work.
Great video Vince. By the way, the "R"400 (I don't think that's an R), is likely a PTC/PPTC resettable fuse, or polyfuse, surface mount obviously. They usually have the dimples on both ends. Different manufacturers have different markings, but I'd say you have a 400mA one on your hands.
i.e. something along these lines:
tny.im/kBg
People have said that it could be a current sense resistor, and while I've not come across one like that myself, I cannot discount the possibility.
Love your channel Vince. For me best for trying to fix videos.
Great fix and would like to get your feelings in a later video about this vac. I think it is kinda a crap robot vacuum. It has no suction so it is depending on the bottom brush to fling the dirt into the bin in the back. The price I see it online for new you can get other vacs with a camera so it knows where it is and have an actual vacuum pump to do more then just sweep up surface dirt. I have watched to many VacuumWars videos on youtube so I think I know more then I do :)
Bang and Olafson were the dogs danglies once upon a time, as a kid we had this huge B&O black and white BeoVision and it was all curvy edges and funky push buttons and had a very early IR remote. BeoCentre's were the best of the lot too, the one I had you had remote speakers in every room and a little thing clipped to your belt and as you walked into a room the music would fade from the other room and increase in the room you were going into and each speaker acting as a relay for your remote sending back to the main unit. I even had a speaker in the loo as nothing like a bit of Who in the loo hehe
YEEEES! FINALLY SOME THING I HAVE BROKEN AT HOME IN THIS MOMENT!!!!
You spilled water around the battery connector too?
break it open and tell VInce what the component is
No my have a fully charge battery but dose not go blue or go nothing usefull at al
My board is slightly diffrent
I'd be careful with that big diode you put in, so you don't rip the pads off. Anyway, I didn't expect to be so entertained by a vacuum cleaner repair video. Kudos.
That was a good video hope u do a revisit I know a few people that just threw them away wished I would’ve gotten them
Great stuff Vince, nicely done. Oh and they are pronounced 'Shot key' diodes, they are basically just better performing diode than PN type.
Nice one Paul :-)
You the best mr fix it on UA-cam you were the reason I wanted to fix things and I wanna thank u Vince don’t ever quit UA-cam
Do u still have the Casio watches that u fixed a while back if so I was wondering if I could buy some
congratulations on your new pet robot!
"shot key" diode is used because its fast. it'll block reverse current fast enough to protect sensitive microprocessors and such down stream. the low forward voltage drop just means in the way you would expect current to flow, there isn't much drop across the device. Meaning its efficient/less heat.
Agreed with schotkey description....add....the forward voltage you measured was 0.2 volts hence low forward voltage. A standard diode will have a voltage drop somewhere between 0.6 to 0.4 volts.
My Eufy 30C has 'clean drop sensor' error 3 beeps and flashing red. Do you know of any way to bypass these sensors on the circuit board. I've attempted unplugging them but same error. I feel the issue maybe deeper into the circuit board as tried looking at them through a camera and can't see any light emitting from them at all so appear dead. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated as not a lot online for this model showing repairs of this sort.
I have watched now 2 uploads of you Vince, I am enjoying them and I do know more about the robot vac cleaners now. Pittely my issue is not resolved (yet)
It's a good idea to use a shottky diodes were there's supposed to be one. A normal diode will have a higher forward voltage drop, which will cause partial loss of power. In your case the (lost) diode acts as a reverse voltage protection.
Great job!
I have bought 3 robotic vacuums at thrift stores for between $9 and $17 each. Fixed every one of them!
The one I had with water damage, I ended up replacing the main board as I could not get the solder to stick to the corroded pads. Best part was that a replacement main board was only $30.
Maybe some helpful advice.
The brush should not have been spinning like that when you turned it on.
When checking power supply voltages, as long as it is within +/- 10% it is good.
Mine dont have wifi connectivity so I am working on modding them to make them work over wifi ;)
Thanks Granpa, I wasn't too sure about that spinning brush :-)
It's pronounced Shot Key, and the forward voltage (VF) is how much the voltage drops by when conducting, same as LEDs, so 0.6V VF means i you have a ~5V supply with a diode it will be ~4.4V at the other side of the diode. It is better to overrate the diode current than underrate it if it used as reverse polarity protection, there should (in good practice) be a fuse that will catch any overcurrent. Oh and the waterproof layer over the board is called conformal coating usually an acryllic protective layer to stop water ingress, or supposed to, not sure what happened to that board.
Thanks Wilksey :-)
Great tutorial. Next time you can apply some flux and some low melting leaded solder to remove the diodes easily.
Very interesting. Nice one Vince 👍
Great video Vince, glad you got it working in the end, watching the end was like watching a man with a new pet lol!
Soldering skills is not your best skill, I'm sorry to say that, but it's amazing that it works after this treatment! But anyway congratulations with it.
A major design flaw with the battery - it consists of 4s 18650, namely cheap CMICR18650F8M7, Candy Mountain - and a non-balancing BMS, the lack of balance is a key. Sooner or later, one of the cells would drop too low and it will never be properly charged. Once one of the cells reaches 4.17V, the BMS (20pin BM3451) disconnects the charging process/mosfet. The robot measures the voltage -- too low (as some of the cells can easily be below 3.2V) and starts 4x beeps relentlessly. The fix is removing the heat shrink wrap, measuring the cells directly and balancing them individually... till the next time. A possible fix would be adding a balancing circuit but there is not much clearance for a mod. OTOH, a great video - not so shabby soldering for a person w/o electronics background.
One more note: the 10.2V at 11:42, is not the charged voltage of the battery but the BMS not opening its discharging MOSFET. (due to to low voltage on some of the cells), 10.2 on a Li-Ion would be over discharge (~2.5V) in the dangerous, unstable chemistry zone.
I've been watching your videos for a long time now Vince you've come a long way and you've improved over time which is great your content has always been good and it makes me come back for more soon i'll have no videos to watch on your channel. 😎😁
That varnish coating on the board is called a *conformal coating* and is designed to protect against external elements to an extent.
Thanks Tech :-)
Nice fix! A Schottky Diode (pronounced Shot-key) as you said, has a lower voltage drop than other diodes. What that means is that when, say, 9 volts is passed through a typical silicon diode there will be a voltage drop of 0.6 to 0.7 Volts which results in a lower output voltage (after passing through the diode) of 8.3V to 8.4V whereas, with a Schottky diode the typical voltage drop would be between 0.3V to 0.4V and the output voltage would therefore be between 8.6V and 8.7V. Very important if the circuit requires diode protection but relies on a voltage of not much less than the original input voltage. Hope that makes sense.
It does make perfect sense to me now. Thank you :-)
Good fix, but it seems that the side motor spinning before it starts means that there is a shorted mosfet for that motor so it will not turn off until you hit the off switch. you should be able to compare it with the other side. Hope that helps.
Wow, I didn't read this comment before I filmed the revisit video. Turns out you are spot on with the MOSFET :-)
R400 is a shunt resistor. It usual low resistance. It use to measure the current been consumed by the system. And the glossy thing that they put on the board is a conformal coating, it use to protect components and the board from corrosion.
To be a regulated power supply, it sure was off by a decent amount. Maybe that's normal when they're higher voltage? Most of the lower-voltage regulated supplies I've tested have been pretty spot-on even with no load.
Shot-Key - Faster Switching refers to how quickly the diode 'blocks' the flow of current when the voltage is reversed. Forward voltage drop is the voltage you would measure across the diode when it is conducting (when current is flowing). A lower voltage drop is useful in power supply and rectifier circuits. It's typically the voltage you see using Diode Test with your multimeter.
The seller used another account to snipe you. They wanted to find your high bid to drive up price. Saves fees on buy it now listings. Ps love the vids, now hooked.
I did think that may be a possibility :-( Cheers mate :-)
Just watching the video, and that's exactly what happened. Crooked sellers raising the price of the things they are selling. It's an actual crime in real world auctions, I'm not sure how it would work on the internet.
There should be a simple way for Ebay to see who is connected through which IP address, but that would cut into their profits, wouldn't it.
@@FieroFats the IP does not work when using either a snipe web site, which ebay allow with the stupid cover up it's not the last bidder, but the highest that wins. True if the highest paid up.
Been going on for years, even a report topic for it but they always say no proof.
Could also have been someone who wasn't paying attention and missed the part about it being faulty and didn't want to admit it
Schottky diode is a fast switch diode. That you need a fast diode there is doubtful, so any diode with these specs and above is Ok . You are correct as to why they use components in manufacture, a penny less makes a difference, but that also has to conform to what is available and how you fit it.
Well Done Vince another great little fix. Dont think one of those would last in my house, the cats would have it for Breakfast lol. Keep up the good work. Mick 👍🍻
Haha, cheers Mick :-)
This UA-camr is amazing
I seriously love your "trying to fix" videos Vince 😁 If there is one thing i would give you a thumbs down on, that would have to be because of the huge amount of solder you are using on some of your components, it's like you are drowning them with solder 😉 Ofcourse they're not going anywhere, but still, try practising adding less solder! Keep it up 👊
I saw quite a few components missing and one resistor was hanging off between a tiny bridge of solder near the second SK34A diode. Looks like someone has done a hatchet job to the poor thing :(
blimey... i remember watching you way back at less than 10k subs... well done mate
Amazing fix! I've loved this channel for so long now, it's what got me into electronics in the first place. Thanks for your videos! 👍
Thanks Gumdrop:-)
Great stuff Vince. I recently took my Samsung robovac apart to clean it and install a new rotary brush motor that gave up on me. Nice things to work on. Now I noticed something but it might be the video playing tricks on me, but my side brushes turn inward and not outward. So they kind of sweep the dirt to the middle in front of the “nose” of the robot. Yours seem to spin outward but again it might be i saw that wrong. Now I got an offer, I have a Phillips saeco coffee machine and for some reason the bean grinder is spinning so weak it stops grinding and shows a fault on the display. Since I am a coffee addict I bought me a new machine but maybe it is something for you to take apart? I do not know what the shipping is to the uk because it is a quite heavy and big machine but I need to know if you are interested first. It is a saeco intelia evo hd8753/95. And no I do not need it back after haha
Cheers Etienne. I think the brushes do sweep inwards but I will double check. I am expecting a delivery of 3 faulty coffee machines so I will pass on your kind offer. Thanks for the offer :-)
My Mate VINCE no problem, I might take a look at it myself sometime, can be good fun.
The main diference between a schotky diode and a normal one is that a normal diode will drop the voltage more than a schotky one. If you put a diode on a 5V line the other side of the diode will have 4.4V because a normal diode usually drops 0.6v while a schotky diode will drop only 0.3v. Also they are good for high frequency switching. If you use your multimeter on diode test on the right way around it will show on the display the drop out voltage, something like 0.332v for schotky or 0.607v for normal diodes.
Thanks Thomas, great info and nicely explained:-)
Vince, when dealing with corrosion your best to clean and neutralise it with vinegar first then clean with IPA.
These things are great, especially when you have a cat that loves to drag cat litter down the hallway every day, it saves you having to get the big vacuum cleaner out all the time.
It will probably only return itself to the base station if it starts there, it will map the path it took so it knows how to get back, a bit like how ants find their way back to their colony.
If you start it manually in a random spot it might just finish in a random spot but I believe more expensive ones can send a signal out to the base station to find out where it is, so I could go either way with this one.
You should test it near the top of stairs to make sure the drop sensors are working correctly and it doesn't just drive down them!
It will look like it's taking a random path when you first use it but again with more expensive ones they will map the entire floor so they can take a much less random approach once its learnt the layout of the house.
Cheers Adam, this one definitely has the drop sensors working as I tested it at the end of the revisit video. I don't think this one maps the house, it looks very similar to versions half the price on eBay, it would be interesting to see if they are the same on the inside :-)
@@Mymatevince Amazon have their own brand of these which will clearly be a rebrand of another model from someone, I'd be interested to know what's inside those ones! Definitely looking forward to that job lot though!
Good job Vince, i convinced my dad to get one of these for the house and it works a treat. Don't know why the one brush was spinning when before you started it, doesn't usually do that but at least it works now lol
Thanks Delph, I wasn't sure if the brush was supposed to spin or not :-)
@Vince Good review, thanks for sharing. May I suggest you should refrain from placing bids until the final last few seconds of the auction. You'll only pay the last bid amount and not your highest bid. You're less likely to be outbid and doesn't show your interest to others, nor prematurely raise the bid, which only prompts other users to increase their bid early too. This tactic worked on the vast majority of auctions I've bid on and won.
Did you not find anything under Google image search Vince regards to the main board . You may of been able to spot that diode of the image and got a better idea of which one it might be . Loving this video those robot vacuums always remind me of robot wars
Very nicely done video of troubleshooting this unit and taking us through all your steps!
I’ve got one of these I’m working on myself that was given to me and I’m stumped on something.
Im trying to figure out how to source the bigger rectifier that is just above the one that was missing on your board?
BTW the one that was missing on your board I can confirm it is the sk14. The only thing it says is “MCC LZ” and I saw when you were testing it the reading was .663 at 40:07. It read 0 for me so I removed it from the board and it reads 0 going either direction off the board as well. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Keep up the awesome repair videos!
you can charge a 18650 safely with a power supply if you set it to nr of cells * 4.1V. its 4.2 max but to keep it a bit on the safe side. Additionally, you can limit the current to 0.5A
you are a star Vice... awesome fix and a profit in the making.. well done
Your name should now be if vince can't fix it no one can 🙂 great fix
I'm glad that warranty in the most of countries in Europe is 2 years instead of just 1
Great job, Vince!
R147 is most likely a current shunt, a low-value, high power resistor that allows the vacuum to measure the current
Awesome video, love these!
Scottky diode got same behavior as normal diode, but scottky got less voltage drop so less heat is generated.
Hi great video and much appreciated. Just wondering if you could help me. I replaced one of the side brush motors. The motor works fine but like most of the reviews about the replacement mounting screws holes they didn’t match up I had to leave one of the three screws out. The machine works fine except now when it parks on the charger I don’t get the orange light. Something has happened after I reassembled the unit. Please do you have any ideas. Thank you again.
Another great video as always 👍🏻❤️
Thank you for the great vid, the voltage drop on the diodes is a lost of voltage, if you put 12 volts one end, you will get 11.4 on a .6 lost, the schotky
Diode has less off a drop, 12 volts in 11.8 volts out 😏
41:52 - I think it's pronoucend "SHOTTKY" ("SHOT"-"KEY"). Coating on board is protective wax. Excellent work there!
Looks like you put too much solder on 1 of the joints and maybe it bridged. Great fix Vince. Very impressed. If it is remote control then give it to your son as a toy and he can hover at the same time. Does this machine remember the room layout? It seemed uncertain at 1st and later it went right next to the wall. Will you give this a name or just call it the automatic hoover? On another note, the seller would have been fully aware and trying to offload water damaged goods. More fool them. Well done.
Radio controlled hoover, I like your thinking Emma :-) This one is called Frank and I don't think he maps the room but he definitely heads towards the edges of the room and then works his way around the perimeter. He is quite relaxing to watch for some reason :-)
@@Mymatevince Ive had a look on Eb ay and saw that some of these 'hoovers' cost only £6.88 new. Very tempted . . might be worth buying just for the parts.
Awesome fix....Would've been good to know that it found its way back to the charger on its own and see that it mapped out rooms ok but I loved the fix
That model doesn't do home mapping.