How to fit the Phoenix 2400 motor
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- Опубліковано 12 лип 2024
- How to fit the Volantex Phoenix 2400 motor.
Motor - Volantex B4023 1050kV
Phoenix 2400 759-3 PNP - bit.ly/2XLEZfv
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#AndrewNewton #phoenix2400 #motormount
Andrew, would love to see this glider fitted with INAV. It isn’t exactly a thermal glider, but it takes so little power to keep it flying. It would be a great aircraft to do some INAV waypoint missions.
Many thanks Andrew for showing us this Phoenix motor mounting procedures . I have the same problem with it. Cheers !
Andrew your video are so helpful, keep em coming
Thanks, will do!
Andrew, I have found the best way to line the Motor & front plate up for the screws is to use 4 Cocktail sticks. Having got it lined up just take out 1 stick at a time and insert the screw :) Regards, Pete
I'm writing this down, thanks Pete.
I prefer toothpicks, as I'm not an alcoholic.
Thanks for the nice video Andrew! My motor had only 2 screws to hold the plastic disc / transfer mount! The hook from the plastic mount also damaged the 3 wires from the engine...so I used new heat shrink tubing to correct that as well.
Looking forward to the flight :)
This is my sixth video on this model.
Great educational vid on these plastic fuelages Andrew, as you know, I've got the Ascent and the Phonix 1600, thank you Andrew, , and in both of my planes the motor did get warm,
the plastic went soft on the motor mount and in both cases pulled/melted the screws through the plastic! causing the barrel of the motor to rub on the plastic inside the nose!, nearly burning out both motors!
in both cases to fix the problem instead of the plastic mount I used another of the front metal plates Inside the nose and so far has fixed my problem, both of mine run on 3s,
the Ascent has a vent cut into the plastic on top of the motor to help with the cooling,
so anybody who uses more than 1/2 throttle and 3s on a regular/continuous basis (Me) the plastic noses will get soft too, the warmth of the motor softens the plastic and sometimes the whole nose wobbles under full power!!
I like the concept of the plastic fuselage, but I think it's a mistake to mount motors on such thin plastic!, Having told my sobstory,
the Ascent is the sweetest flyer I've ever owned, virtually unstallable with 2- 3s 2200mah battery's in the nose! anyway great vid :-D
You're up late Chris! Yes the thin plastic bulkhead may be its weakest feature, although I have not managed to break one yet.
rfr the question that you should ask yourself is whynhel would the motor of a self-launching glider get warm....in the first place.
@@daviddavids2884 because on a warm day, say 27c (Not Lately!) the 1mm or less of plastic just sitting in the sun goes SOFT!, the screws sink into the plastic and you have a loose motor...If my plane has a motor I use it
@@AndrewNewton Yea, I'm stuck in night shift mode, cant sleep unless it's 3 or 4 in the morning then I get up 10, 11 or whatever, no cool still mornings for me.....unfortunately,
No they don't break the nose, it distorts the whole nose, when under high power, it wobbles? distorts the plastic way out of shape, you hear a horrible noise and have to back off or the motor pulls through the thin plastic. On one of the forums a bloke said he solved this issue by fiberglassing the inside of the nose, in this cooler weather it's not so much of a problem, but when the summer comes, I'll have to do the same?
This is a great glider. I have been able to ride thermals for over an hour. I did change out the motor and use the Brushless Motor 4023/850KV along with a 12 x 8 carbon folding prop. I also changed the ESC to a Turnigy Plush-32 40A Speed Controller w/BEC, but would recommend a 60 amp ESC if I were to do it again, and I run it all on a 4S 2200 35C battery.
Great info thanks
is 4s oh on a 11.1 volt motor?
Muito bom eu tenho um Phoenix top
The 2400 is one of the best gliders I have flown, great fpv plane, I changed over my 1050 KV for the volantex 850kv motor and one size bigger prop. Much better in power and battery lasts longer. I have flown it in 20kn wind no problem. Best value for money glider on the market.
Nick, did you also change the ESC when you upgraded the motor? Thanks.
Would you mind sending a link or just giving the name of that prop nick?
I added a 1/8 inch plywood firewall on the inside to strengthen the cracked firewall on the fuselage. Used shoe goo glue since nothing else seems to stick to this plastic. Firewall got cracked in a hard landing. I like this plane for gliding and thermals, its slow and stable, easy to fly.
Good mod Greg
This is a great glider. I have been able to ride thermals for over an hour. I did change outthe motor and use the Brushless Motor 4023/850KV along with a 12 x 8 carbon folding prop. I also changed the ESC to a Turnigy Plush-32 40A Speed Controller w/BEC, but would recommend a 60 amp ESC if I were to do it again, and I run it all on a 4S 2200 35C battery.
Nick Marangelis 1 month ago
The 2400 is one of the best gliders I have flown, great fpv plane, I changed over my 1050 KV for the Volantex 850kv motor and one size bigger prop. Much better in power and battery lasts longer. I have flown it in 20kn wind no problem. Best value for money glider on the market. "
My first one has the 1050 motor. Due to battery weight with the Phoenix V1, I'll probably be using 3S battery packs. Being a complete beginner to motors, props and batteries, I wonder if you or one of your subscribers can clarify the implications and difference between the 1050kv and 850kv versions of the Volantex? Maybe the difference between 2 metres and the 2.4 metre version?
I'm still using the stock motor on both, no reason to change. P2K V2 is a better thermal glider with less drag. 2400 is more suited to loading up with batteries for long powered flight
is 850kv stronger than the 1050?
i thought the motor is 11.1 volts, 4s would be too much voltage??
Bells tend to come loose on that motor too alot, careful landing cuz bends in or tears motor mount off fuselage and clips for wings tend to break alot, good plane tho just gotta be careful of some things, love the hinges on the control surfaces, even if material tears they stay
I also have a small tip: With the help of a hot air gun you can nicely remove the air bubbles under the decals ... works like a charm ;-)
Good tip thanks Frank
Hi, Andrew do you have a good recommendation on the Lipo batt for the phoenix?
I already got the Volantex trainstair 1400mm from your vid ;-) and use the 2200mah 30c from ZOP power.. wonder if there is something out there which better..
Can use anything from 2200 3S (gliding) to 3000 4S (long range FPV)
Nice video can the stock motor and esc support a 4s battery
Yes it will
To locate the motor easily, Poke two long wires through the holes in the metal plate then through the holes in the
front of the fuselage going right back to the hatch.
Run them through the motor mount holes then slide the motor mount back along them to the nose of the plane.
Pull one wire out from the front while holding the motor in place.
Secure the first screw then do the same with the second wire / screw.
The last two are then already lined up for the final two screws.
Yes that's the right way! Thanks
Hi Andrew, glad to find your channel,you have some awesome very exciting and qualitative reviews on your channel :-)
Do you know which timing were the most suitable one for the Volantex B4023 1050kv motor? Because I want to run this motor with the Hobbywing Skywalker 50amp Esc and this one doesn"t has the auto timing feature, so this ESC must be set up with the timing between his three different options "Low,middle or high " timing.
Would be very thankfull if you can me some good advise about the correct timing option on this B4023 1050kv motor ..:-)
Nice regards from germany
Miguel
Thanks, but I dont know much about ESC timing sorry. I have never changed from stock timing.
@@AndrewNewton Thanks for your reply :-)
Too bad ,so I will have to figure it out.If I could find somewhere any advice how much poles this motor have,it would be very helpfull to figure out the right timing for it..
Wish you a nice week and stay healthy!!
Hello Andrew. Nice work as usual. I am thinking about getting this plane to long-distance fpv, so, what is the max weight I can use with batteries? I will put at the back the fpv camera end the VTX to increase the weight at the back and increase the batteries' weight also at the front...Thanks
I never load mine up. Maybe check on the RCGroups thread, I'm sure the information will be there.
My VTX is all the way back by the tail servos, antenna coming out right in front of where the rudder slope goes flush with the body.
Air speed sensor in the left tail about 6 inches from the body. Obviously it isn't accurate when running the motor....
All metal gear servos. Gps is on the back of the foam piece above the the main wing.
F722 Wing mounted to the receiver plate.
12 channel receiver mounted about 8 inches behind the wing.
Camera is on top of the canopy. The wheel is still in it.
My entire plane is painted, which adds considerable weight.
All foam is sealed with about 10 coats of polyurethane.
The fuselage has carbon strips glued into it in areas it flexed.
2 layers of 5 mil on the wings with a third on leading edges.
When I put it together I thought I was going to have to add a lot of weight to the back.
But with all the wires running to the back, vtx, antenna, servos, etc, I didn't add much.
I use two batteries and that's about 1000 grams with the y adapter.
I can run 8400 to 10000 mah in it.
Take the wheel out and add a cover plate, and you could get a third battery in it, possibly 4.
You could probably get more battery weight in there if you added more weight to the back.
There is room for fat 3 cell batteries on edge, but not long ones unless the flight board is move so far back you cant get to the usb port....
My batteries are about 5.25 and 5.5 inches long depending on mah.
The vertical stabilizer is thick enough that you can drill it from the bottom, install nails in it, then put it back on the plane if you need more weight in the back.
If you plan on adding weight like I did, you are going to have to make sure the plane is strong enough.
When I replaced the oe wing servos, I also added carbon strips to the cable groove in the wings.
All that, and the coatings made them very stiff.
Once I had the cg right, the tail was coated with 5 mil as one piece to hold it together.
I did some mods to keep it on the body as well.
Yes, it is heavy set up this way (just over 5.5kg with 8400 mah) Which is about 5 times the weight of a stock one.....
Set it up full house so you can slow it down to land it... Without a way to slow it down, well, it wont.....
It is surprisingly agile set up this way, and very fast.
My next mods will be a better motor and speed controller setup.
Excellent info thanks
ciao bel video,ho comprato il kit del PHOENIX 2400 , questo motore secondo te com'è? Me lo consigli questo , o me ne consigli un'altro? grazie ciao
Hi Andrew, how does it fair up against a multiplex solius? I'm tempted to buy a Phoenix.
Don't know the Solius but the Phoenix 2k V2 is a better glider than the 2400
hello nice video, I bought the PHOENIX 2400 kit, how is this engine in your opinion? Do you recommend this to me, or do you recommend another one? thanks bye
Thanks. Motor is fine.
@@AndrewNewton ok grazie
I had a few phoenix 2000 models in the past they use the same motor and motor mount system .What I've learnt is it's best to use the the original motor. I've tried different motors ended up ever melting the motor mount or having poor performance.The plastic mount is a week spot I've have this motor in my current phonex 2000 it's a upgraded from the older blue version.Im surprised that a upgraded motor mount has not been made on the plus side you can buy spare motor mounts from banggood just forget about HK who sell the Phonex range with no spares to back them up banggood is best place for spares.
you say not to use threadlock because of the plastic but if you use a cocktail stick or similar to get just a drop of the threadlock on it, you can then place it into the thread of the motor and avoid putting it on the bolts and none will make contact with the plastic :)
The battery tray in this model is held in place by wood screws, one little bump on the belly and the screws will strip out. I replaced mine with 2.5mm bolts and nuts, gluing the nuts to the inside of the battery tray.
I just added a little precaution of some hot glue on top to sides, whenever i needa take it out just cut the glue around edge, and take screws out
Whoops- Sorry- I don't know what happened tto my input below! I was referring to the discussion by Nick Marangalis and Benfran Francis re when to use, and what was the difference between the 1050 and 850 versions of the Volantex. I'm building my second Phoenix 2kV1. The first has a1050 Volantex on board. Unfortunately, half my draft disappeared into space when I hit "Comment"!! Hope this one goes through!
How do you reckon this thing takes the thermals, any tips for getting on them?
OK but not as good as the 2000 V2. Fly up to 100m cut the motor and glide around smoothly until you see the plane do something like roll or bobble a bit, then start circling. Helps with learning to have a vario.
@@AndrewNewton Alright cool, looking to maiden it next weekend, but what would you say it's main focus/what it does best is?
The cowling/ front of the glider is a real weak point. I put some thin fibreglass sheet in the nose with some 5 min epoxy and now the nose is rock solid. It's a couple of grams in a glider that is tail heavy anyway.
Albeit always mindful of weight, modest glass and resin reinforcing is my thought too. Returning to RC with electric after decades of IC RC & soaring experience (full size), but (relatively) an electric newb. Have the smaller 1.6M sibling of the 2.4M Phoenix in the mail. Before ordering it, I'd already retrieved x4 NIB unbuilt electric ARFs & motors from long term storage. Given their respective Power to Weight ratios, all the gliders will be receiving lightweight glass and backing plate firewall nose reinforcing. The few grams in the nose is insignificant, and would likely be required ballast in any case.
✌✌😉
I cracked the plastic of the fuselage where it mounts.. I'm assuming that's a whole new fuselage.
Some folks have repaired cracks but it involved internal bracing and epoxy I think
how the engine tilt is solved?
Built in to the motor mount (if there is any tilt)
Ciao ,puoi dirmi se il motore può andare con lipo 4s?
Yes motor can handle 4S but you might need a bigger ESC if you want to go sustained full throttle
@@AndrewNewton ok grazie
I have the policy to never put the motor, ESC and battery in one compartment except for pusher setups and sub 10°C temperature.
I'm surprised nobody has sent you an electric screwdriver to review by now Andrew...So many videos with you struggling with those horrible cheap Phillips screwdrivers..
I never could workout what those Cocky's were saying to me.... Now I know..
222 Loctite for metal parts. Dab of 406 Loctite for the plastic. Works well in lots of applications.
Around the maize growing areas it's usually "Achtung! 12 gauge!" ;-)
Ah thanks Pat, have to get some 406
"Pull!"
@@AndrewNewton 406 is like " Super Glue " but better. It wicks well but be careful....I have accidentally stuck fingers together. Yikes !! You will get this from somewhere like CBC bearings or other industrial supply. Not a bunny's item.
As a very minor techno-nerd (I'm not an engineer, just keen on all-things mechanical), I've always been frustrated and disappointed by the various prop-mounting options on electric motors. They all just seem so clumsy, relying on direct friction from a collet or micro grub-screws on that super-smooth, polished motor shaft. Plus a lot of hope and maybe a smear of goo to help keep things in place.
It just seems unsatisfactory, to me.
Meanwhile... the name Phoenix got me thinking. Back in the early 90s a mate of mine had a model he'd designed featured as that month's free plan giveaway in RCM&E magazine. Whee! (All balsa, 4-channel, fully aerobatic with a T-tail and a Saito 40 4-stroke.)
His Phoenix really did rise from its own ashes. The prototype crashed spectacularly when he pulled up on an inverted low 'photo opportunity' pass. I was trying to get some pictures for the magazine - there were no digital cameras back then, no autofocus or auto-exposure or stabilisation or instant review screen to check you'd got the shot - so it was a case of exposing 60+ rolls of film (at 36 pics per roll) and hoping you got 3 or 4 usable shots...
The plane was utterly destroyed. We salvaged the engine bits (wrecked) and the radio bits (wrecked) and set fire to the remains. I got some pictures of the blaze, but the mag didn't use them (boo!).
The Mark 2 Phoenix was a right little cracker and had a HUGE rudder for outrageous knife-edge and flick manoeuvres (this was long before 3-D aerobatics were a thing) but it was light and agile and had a lot of wing area and could fly ridiculously slowly - full up trim, engine idling, still responsive to ailerons, just dangling from the prop...
A prop, incidentally, that was fitted to a proper darn threaded darn motor shaft with a proper darn nut tightened with a decent darn wrench, not some wimpy little aluminium collet affair... (Mumble, mumble, mutter, mutter, plus assorted other grumpy Elli noises...)
Yeah threaded 5mm shafts just like quad motors. There should be a law
e-p agree. and yet, a friction fit between metal components Can actually be an elegantly simple solution, to certain types of problems. for example: the only thing holding the chuck of my drill press in place, is FRICTION. over the decades, it has never come loose. cheers googletranslate
some info. good work. however, volantex has Not yet shown that they know how to correctly design an offset pusher thrust configuration. consequently, Anything Else the company makes should be scrutinized for design wonkiness. it can be seen that a bldc outrunner motor that has a larger bell/rotor radius, has more leverage (MA) at the prop, compared to a smaller radius. the relevant comparison is Radii --- prop Radius to the Radius at which Force is produced in a motor; that is, the Radius at which the magnets move past the stator core(s). the fundamental value of a circle is Radius; the area of a circle, or volume of a cylinder, is Determined by Radius. googletranslate the outrunner motor configuration may be the key to clean generation of electrical power. it may be practical to make a very Large-radius outrunner motor; a motor in which losses and power consumption are minimized, to the Maximum practical extent. (fisher and paykel have made a start.) i wonder if anyone has investigated the use of BRUSHED commutation; for the sake of simplicity. you may know that there are two kinds of coils: those that 'self-induct' and those that do not. the former are Generating coils and they have a layered structure. see brooks coil. the latter is a solenoid or a passive inductor --- where a multi-layer structure should Not be present. however, a layered solenoid coil design is acceptable where a meandering current path is Not present. in other words, coil layers Must be connected in series, 'end to start'. d googletranslate
Thanks for your thoughts David
Yo pensé que era de blox fruits
It certainly trys ones patience. 😐