I have the same issue with my steam boiler, the Honeywell pressuretrol will not cut out until till 2 psi, and cut in at 1 psi. I have a 6 family bldg, 3 story. It’s been fine all these years , so I just leave as is.
Thanks for this video. I'm learning about this on my system. In NYC we have to use copper pigtails and brass fittings because of corrosion possibly blocking flow to the control on steel pigtail (at some point in their lifespan). I don't think that is short cycling; it's working as per set controls to reach temperature.
Thanks for the note. Yes, the steel pigtail was nearly blocked when I moved in. I replaced it with a brass one shortly after this. Yeah, short-cycling isn’t really a thing with steam boilers. But it wasn’t good that it was cycling on pressure. I replaced it with a smaller model this year
Hello, the question you should be asking is why is there pressure build up to begin with. These residential systems are meant to efficiently run on low pressure. The air in the pipes and radiators are causing the pressure build up. I would check to make sure your system has adequate air venting (main air vent & radiator air valves). heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/balancing-one-pipe-steam-systems/
Edwin Goicochea you are right, but at the time of this video I already addressed the main venting. The reason it’s cycling on pressure is because like so many systems, my boiler is oversized by about 1/3 too much EDR compared to my radiation. So given that, that’s why I’m working to keep the pressure down where it should be
Hi, great video. I'm having pressuretrol issues but don't know enough except but to touch (pressuretrol) to cut in and fire up the boiler when its gets too cold in the house. I'm tempted to try taking out the spring to see how that works for me. I'm in NJ too any local steam experts you can recommend. Thanks
My sys stays on for about 30minutes and then it takes more than 3 hrs for the pressure to come back down and allow it to cut in again... by this time, all the radiators are cold and so are we? anyone know why it could be taking so long for the pressure to come down and the furnace to kick it?
@@pb7379-j2kthanks for the reply...... my furnace is so old I'm afraid something might break trying to twist it off..... and then there is no heat at all, lol. I'm thinking of just replacing the whole unit in the spring, rather than risk getting ripped off by another plumber.
@@pb7379-j2k looking at their site now. It pretty neat. I just need a 0-3 psi to set my vaporstat to keep it under a psi. Which particular model are you using from the Magnahelic?
I have the same issue with my steam boiler, the Honeywell pressuretrol will not cut out until till 2 psi, and cut in at 1 psi. I have a 6 family bldg, 3 story. It’s been fine all these years , so I just leave as is.
Thanks for this video. I'm learning about this on my system. In NYC we have to use copper pigtails and brass fittings because of corrosion possibly blocking flow to the control on steel pigtail (at some point in their lifespan). I don't think that is short cycling; it's working as per set controls to reach temperature.
Thanks for the note. Yes, the steel pigtail was nearly blocked when I moved in. I replaced it with a brass one shortly after this.
Yeah, short-cycling isn’t really a thing with steam boilers. But it wasn’t good that it was cycling on pressure. I replaced it with a smaller model this year
Hello, the question you should be asking is why is there pressure build up to begin with. These residential systems are meant to efficiently run on low pressure. The air in the pipes and radiators are causing the pressure build up. I would check to make sure your system has adequate air venting (main air vent & radiator air valves). heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/balancing-one-pipe-steam-systems/
Edwin Goicochea you are right, but at the time of this video I already addressed the main venting. The reason it’s cycling on pressure is because like so many systems, my boiler is oversized by about 1/3 too much EDR compared to my radiation.
So given that, that’s why I’m working to keep the pressure down where it should be
Edwin Goicochea see my post here: forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/167241/no-main-vents#latest 🙂
Stay below 2psi. 1.5-1.75 fine
I’d rather stay below 4oz now that I know things
@@pb7379-j2k What do you mean below 4 oz?
@@echokiloecho I’m not sure how I can say it clearer 😄 My new boiler runs at 2” WC which is like 1 ounce psi
Hi, great video. I'm having pressuretrol issues but don't know enough except but to touch (pressuretrol) to cut in and fire up the boiler when its gets too cold in the house. I'm tempted to try taking out the spring to see how that works for me. I'm in NJ too any local steam experts you can recommend. Thanks
My sys stays on for about 30minutes and then it takes more than 3 hrs for the pressure to come back down and allow it to cut in again... by this time, all the radiators are cold and so are we? anyone know why it could be taking so long for the pressure to come down and the furnace to kick it?
There’s a good chance your pigtail is clogged. Do you know how to check/clean it?
@@pb7379-j2kthanks for the reply...... my furnace is so old I'm afraid something might break trying to twist it off..... and then there is no heat at all, lol. I'm thinking of just replacing the whole unit in the spring, rather than risk getting ripped off by another plumber.
What brand gauge is this? 1/4” npt?
I can’t remember the brand, but it’s just a normal 1/4” low pressure gauge you’d find on Amazon. I use Magnahelic gauges now
I knew so little when I made this but I didn’t say too much wrong stuff 😅
@@pb7379-j2k looking at their site now. It pretty neat. I just need a 0-3 psi to set my vaporstat to keep it under a psi. Which particular model are you using from the Magnahelic?
@@stevebbkny2394 I get them used on ebay. It’s like 27” per PSI and my boiler doesn’t build pressure so I use a 5” scale one usually
How many radiators do you have and rooms in house?
It’s small. I have 200 EDR, 7 radiators