Ignition Timing Tuning explained EVO Ecuflash
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
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E-tune contact : youtube@bdalchemist.com in this video we are examining how both ignition timing works physically and how the ecu controls it. i demonstrate what some timing related tables look like for Mitsubishi evos using ecuflash
apologies for any mistakes, my first video. at the end i said the load drop due to stop ecu, i meant stock turbo.
i cant tell you how grateful I am to come across this. this is so helpful. I finally have a better understanding on how this timing stuff works. time to go blow my engine.
Noooo! Don't do that. Take it easy. One degree at a time.
bruh, same here. I'll hit you up when its finished xD
Hey man just checking in 2 years later did you actually blow your engine shortly after posting this comment? And hope all is well!
@@worldFamousPitbull depends on how you drive technically and how much you run a flame tune on your car or letting your car running rich daily you will blow your motor eventually if you drive your car hard.
So far the best video on UA-cam explaining how to calibrate ignition timing of a turbo car!got the concept clearly...thanks!
Thank u
Love how you teach very slower and consistent
You have the best explanation on UA-cam
Grate Video!
But, you have one mistake, when an engine's stroke is increased it's connecting rod has to be shortened ,theirs only so much deck- height space, to make room for the
increased stroke. Moreover, The reduced length of the conneting-rod decreases the rod to crank ratio. Thus, causing a reduction of "TDC piston dwell" , when the con-rod length is increased the "TDC piston dwell time, in crankshaft degrees" is increased. Also, the opposite happens in BDC, The "BDC piston dwell time", in crankshaft degrees is decreased.
Rod to crank ratio: is half of the stroke divided by the length of the connecting rod, this is because the crank pin actually makes a circle as it spins and the radius is used to calculate the "rod to crank ratio".
I'm ending it hear... I already wrote more than I the time that I wanted to spent.
Seriously thanks man I been trying to understand timing for a while and couldn’t fix a simple explanation, but this gave me a good idea of how it works … question tho , do u just add timing to see how the motor responds and keep adding u till u see no more power or untill detonation occurs? Like when do u know “that’s enough “
Best video for ignition tuning 🔥
Thank u
Thank you so much for this video
Very helpful for beginners
One of the best tuning vids I've seen so far. I'm wondering, how would this change if my engine is NA, I guess not having a turbo would let us have earlier timing?
Yes, also ur table will max at 100kpa as there is no boost pressure in a na car. So way less to worry about fuel and timing table wise
Need more step by step tuning videos 😢
There are class you can take for that
Dang great video bro. Can you do a step buy step assembly on the 4b11? Like how to check the clearance on bearings and rings?
Currently working on tune vids but we r building 3 motors now and will try to take some vids
Hey I love this explanation. Can you do one for Subarus?
New subscriber here. Thanks for the teaching.
Thank you for watching
Thank you fam you the man
Lol what happened? U were stuck somewhere and this helped ?
Great video. Question I’ve got at 8 with fp black and s3 cams. I’m getting some knock at higher rpm’s (6800 +) with my peak timing about 1-2 degrees going to 10 at redline. Does 10 degrees at 7k rpm sound like it’s too much for 24-26 psi on 93?
I’ve played with AFRs rich rung up from 11.4 all the way to. 10.9 and still getting knock in this area.
Would appreciate your insight
Yooooo thanks got a sense, now time to hook my bike and read all the param
Glade I could help
Question, a few times you referred to the top horizontal load axis as psi, and you pointed over the 250 and 260 kPa load cells as 25-26 psi. Were you just talking in general or have you set up your cells to refer to actual psi units and NOT kilopascals? As usually any stock mitsubishi load map will have kPa ranging from 0 to 150 or 200, which correlates to boost load. Like you said, from 0 to 100 is effectively vacuum, and from 100 to 200 would be in bars. so 120 would be 0.2 bar boost, 150 would be 0.5 bar and 200 would be 1 full bar of boost (14.7 psi or 100 boost kPa).
You can control what each load kpa to boost is or how ECU sees voltage as a function of kpa. And then u can do the same for kpa to psi
More stroke length does give more torque relatively speaking.........BUT it comes at the price of rpm potential. Its a universally observed limitation that long stroke engines (all else being equal) cant achieve the same rpm without having a catastrophic failure due to the extra piston speed (for the same rpm) and conrod loading. Its not a free lunch.
Hey love your videos, will you be making a VID on how to tune a evo ecu with ecuflash? i realised your ecuflash has alot more stuff on the drop list than me
You should check out my other vid on open source vs Cobb ap
seu video é muito bom, ganhou um inscrito!
Thank u
Thank you!!
If you have a EBCS, and your target is 28 psi with an FP black. If you hold 28 pounds until redline, would you still target 14-15 degrrees at redline. Or would it be the 8-9 as show in the chart?
You are asking for specific tuning strategies, I'm just trying to explain how this software and ECU works
THANKS!!
Good stuff
Can you map this ignition timing table like on a chart showing transitions?
Dwell time is the charge time of ignition coil pack. Not the time of piston at tdc....
They are 2 different things which use the term "dwell". The word is only a reference to time. Dwell for ignition is charge time and a tdc dwell is amount of time it takes for pistons at tdc to change directions. The dwell for coils are in MS and the one for pistons are in reference to ° of the crank.
I understand the tdc dwell time. At 6.00 of video start because of tht dwell time setting that you explain tht making me confusion. Maybe just my poor understanding of english
@@jinkwt no , it's probably me. This was one of my first vids and I had so much info to communicate and it probably didn't come out right. But since some engine configurations produces a higher tdc dwell and bdc dwell, u have to be mindful of both ur timing and ingnition dwell. That's the point I was trying to make. Sorry for the confusion.
@@bdalchemist great info ! Keep it up for producing more videos
@@bdalchemist You were actually wrong in what you explained. The error he refers to is when you said that the dwell time is the time spent arc;ing, which is incorrect, you can't control the spark duration at all and it's completely irrelevant to tuning, you can only control the time spent keeping the coil powered . A side note if we're talking about dwell angles too (which wasn't the original issue). The piston is in fact still moving at the top too, just very slow, and then it accelerates until it reaches its peak acceleration at exactly halfway. If you were to put a micrometer on the top of the piston while spinning the crank, you can see it. This is ofc not relevant, just an interesting observation based on the simple physics involved.
So, 6° is your preferred maximum degree at top tq on the 4G63. what about the 4B11? what'd be your max ° at top tq?
Really depends on a few factors, engine build specs, parts used, turbo, fuel, compression etc
Trying to tune my Prelude BB8, JDM, type S with Greddy EMU (piggybcak).
It is all motor with intake, exhaust, camshaft upgrade.
I can handle fuel tuning based on wideband.
My questing is how to tune timing/ignition?
When should timing be retarded or advanced?
There is no dyno machine in my area (Belitung island, Indonesia).
Tuning must be done on street (fortunately no speed limit on public road).
It's hard to tune timing precisely without a Dyno. Typically u add timing till u get 1-2 counts knock then u back up 2° in those areas , this is offcourse after peak torque. Virtual Dyno helps
@@bdalchemist Thanks for feedback.
"Typically u add timing till u get 1-2 counts knock then u back up 2° in those areas"
This one is hardest part.
I cant hear any knock, even using headphone, while under WOT.
@@andisemesta4248 that is the issue with piggy backs, there should be some kind of knock logging channel. And I would personally used hondata s3 and not a piggy back.
@@bdalchemist Thanks again
@@andisemesta4248 anytime , let me know how it goes