I've done the same thing with a small block of wood. Jointed a stick and cut a piece down to size. I used tape to make it level to the sand paper. I think I put it up on my channel as a short. Very clever using the paper upside down.
I just finished my very first complete fret job using this and several of your other ideas. Worked perfectly and saved a ton of money on expensive 'luthier tools'. Thanks for all your great videos.
A simply genius idea how to make a fret kisser without paying $100 + dollars for the tool. I'll add to that using a Fret Guru crowning tool to finish, and it makes leveling a couple of frets easy.
I started playing in 1970. Played a LOT until late 80's. Other than changing strings, I never did any work on my guitars. Started relearning last year. Also now doing some work on my new acquisitions. Closest shop is several hours away. This video is very helpful to this old dog.
StewMac tools are ridiculously over-priced, and here in UK we have to pay extortionate shipping on top. Great to see a simple and achievable alternative to the Kisser. Thanks, Man. Great to see someone else has discovered emery boards. I've been using them for years on fret-ends, nuts and bridges.
@@pasteye1671 haha yes, emery boards are the cheapest micromesh around. I do appreciate that StewMac doesn't off shore to China and maintains strict quality control for precision but if music doesn't pay the bills; you have to make do.
This worked great for me. I bought a 10 dollar set of 3 prisms on Amazon. I used the middle sized one to crown the fret after using the longer one to level it. Amazing. I liked it better than the Stewmac Z file I have and since I used 600 grit paper on it the fret polished up in no time at all.
@@miamibeachshadow That's great to hear! If you comment with the link I could direct other people from the US there. Amazon Canada only has them for 2 for 30 bucks.
yeah i just use the files, the sharpie helps as a depth gauge so you will only remove no less than one micron in thickness at a time, but whatever helps you do less labor in fretwork is alright by me, i think im gonna try this myself
This is a great idea. I own a fret kisser, but manufacturing tolerances mean it's not as precise as one would hope. I see no reason this wouldn't do just as good a job provided one was careful setting up.
Nicely presented and clearly explained BTW, the Stew Mac IS pretty but dayam expensive. Also, as you know, successive grades of sand paper under your finger will bend to the profile if not a lot of material is involved.
Cool video. Thanks for sharing. I have been doing the same thing for a couple of months, but using an old piece of Aluminum from a window. The aluminum piece is perfectly square and about the same length as my fret-crocker piece. Good enough size to stick on the sandpaper . Works great and I saved ALOT of money. Sorry Stewmac but you are just too expensive.
If you only have a few high frets to deal with you can just use a crowning file. Give it a few passes and keep checking with a fret rocker until it's level and all you do is polish the tools marks out after.
Right...that is how I would do it as well. The problem with that... is the level of skill it takes. It's very easy to go too far. I am catering my advice for regular guitar players that want to fix their guitars.
@@ErickvdK The way the OP talks about is how I have done it for a long time : and you can only overdo if you are not patient, and/or do not check regularly with a fret rocker. It's really not rocket science, but you need patience : you may have a different experience, but my approach on leveling fret has always been to take as few material as possible. Where I agree with you is on the fact that you can always take some fret material out, but you can't "add" some up. Sorry for my bastardized English
I have a fret kisser and I hardly ever use it. I have quite a few Stew Mac tools. At least they all have a warranty but if Stew Mac ever goes out of business I'm screwed lol.
@@studowling haha well I am sure they are built to last. They are extremely well made. For me, it is partly necessity breeding ingenuity but mostly enjoyment of making tools.
I may be mistaken about something here but: when you are sanding the fret with, say the 220 first, how do you know just when to stop? Going to another grit will reduce the surface more. Also; after the fret is level with the others doesn’t the emery board reduce the surface even more so that it’s now lower than the adjacent frets? I’ve never done any fret work at all, but definitely want to start.
Good question. So with this, it will automatically stop sanding when the frets are level. So you do want to switch to the 320 and 400 before the fret is level. The emory board will not lower the fret enough as long as it is a buffing side.
Great idea! What would you recommend is the easiest way to round off the fret top if enough material was removed? Crowning files then risk doing a bad job and taking too much off or being uneven with the radius.
@@hymnplayer I only found it online from Walmart. Amazon has some too but they are more expensive (in Canada at least). Anything you know is perfectly flat that covers three frets would also work.
I would say for that just use 220 on all three sides.. that way when it does wear out; you would just turn it to the fresh side. If you get some double sided tape also, it only takes a minute or so to switch to fresh sandpaper. Also, use aluminum oxide sandpaper.
Fix Fret buzz forever with this FREE course "Fool Proof Fretwork" with this link
stringing-it-together.mykajabi.com/fool-proof-fretwork
Can you please tell me the brand and model of that razor blade tool with a big circle in the middle that you used in this video
I've done the same thing with a small block of wood. Jointed a stick and cut a piece down to size. I used tape to make it level to the sand paper. I think I put it up on my channel as a short. Very clever using the paper upside down.
@@jonahguitarguy You've got some cool stuff on your channel. I love the fractal burning for guitar!
@@Stringing_It_Together well thanks bud.
I just finished my very first complete fret job using this and several of your other ideas. Worked perfectly and saved a ton of money on expensive 'luthier tools'. Thanks for all your great videos.
Great to hear! did you use the Fool Proof Fret work course (stringing-it-together.com/30-2/) or just a collection of videos?
A simply genius idea how to make a fret kisser without paying $100 + dollars for the tool. I'll add to that using a Fret Guru crowning tool to finish, and it makes leveling a couple of frets easy.
I started playing in 1970. Played a LOT until late 80's. Other than changing strings, I never did any work on my guitars.
Started relearning last year. Also now doing some work on my new acquisitions. Closest shop is several hours away.
This video is very helpful to this old dog.
Good to hear! I am working on putting together a video course to teach guitar repair to guitar/bass players. So stay tuned for that.
@@Stringing_It_Together
I recently had your video pop up in my feed. Watched a couple.
Prism arriving tomorrow
@@patrickkelly9721 Nice! Let me know how it works out for you!
stringing-it-together.com/30-2 there is the course there!
Great idea. I've been thinking about making a fret kisser somehow, and luckily your video popped up out of the blue. Thanks!
@@ramblinrogers My pleasure!
Same. People complain about the algorithm but then it does things like this and save me 90 bucks.
@@LumaTo That is main goal, I think, for UA-cam, putting the right video at the right time to the right person. Glad it could help!
StewMac tools are ridiculously over-priced, and here in UK we have to pay extortionate shipping on top. Great to see a simple and achievable alternative to the Kisser. Thanks, Man. Great to see someone else has discovered emery boards. I've been using them for years on fret-ends, nuts and bridges.
@@pasteye1671 haha yes, emery boards are the cheapest micromesh around. I do appreciate that StewMac doesn't off shore to China and maintains strict quality control for precision but if music doesn't pay the bills; you have to make do.
This worked great for me. I bought a 10 dollar set of 3 prisms on Amazon. I used the middle sized one to crown the fret after using the longer one to level it. Amazing. I liked it better than the Stewmac Z file I have and since I used 600 grit paper on it the fret polished up in no time at all.
@@miamibeachshadow That's great to hear! If you comment with the link I could direct other people from the US there. Amazon Canada only has them for 2 for 30 bucks.
yeah i just use the files, the sharpie helps as a depth gauge so you will only remove no less than one micron in thickness at a time, but whatever helps you do less labor in fretwork is alright by me, i think im gonna try this myself
Amazing. Thanks for sharing Sir. Prism sales set to rise!
This is a great idea. I own a fret kisser, but manufacturing tolerances mean it's not as precise as one would hope. I see no reason this wouldn't do just as good a job provided one was careful setting up.
@@tmx63 hmm that's interesting. Yeah, as long as there is no overlap and/or wrinkles in the tape it is.
I have never lost a job because of a high fret in my 75 year life now. Retired 20 years ago as a muscian. Thanks for making my point.
This video saved me a lot of time and money. I’m new to fret leveling and this really helps! Thanks!
Nicely presented and clearly explained BTW, the Stew Mac IS pretty but dayam expensive. Also, as you know, successive grades of sand paper under your finger will bend to the profile if not a lot of material is involved.
Cool video. Thanks for sharing. I have been doing the same thing for a couple of months, but using an old piece of Aluminum from a window.
The aluminum piece is perfectly square and about the same length as my fret-crocker piece. Good enough size to stick on the sandpaper .
Works great and I saved ALOT of money. Sorry Stewmac but you are just too expensive.
If you only have a few high frets to deal with you can just use a crowning file. Give it a few passes and keep checking with a fret rocker until it's level and all you do is polish the tools marks out after.
Right...that is how I would do it as well. The problem with that... is the level of skill it takes. It's very easy to go too far. I am catering my advice for regular guitar players that want to fix their guitars.
Possible, but very easy to overdo either the midlle or one of the sides of the fret
@@ErickvdKEven just not havng to deal with fret marks saves time.
@@ErickvdK The way the OP talks about is how I have done it for a long time : and you can only overdo if you are not patient, and/or do not check regularly with a fret rocker. It's really not rocket science, but you need patience : you may have a different experience, but my approach on leveling fret has always been to take as few material as possible. Where I agree with you is on the fact that you can always take some fret material out, but you can't "add" some up. Sorry for my bastardized English
a crowning file? Wow. That would take a long time. OK for a hobby guy, but not good for a repair guy.
I have succesfully used this method, works a charm!
@@ErickvdK Great to hear!
I have one just like his, thanks for the idea
@@JohnAdams-xc5yk Nice! Yeah, finding one was what sparked the idea.
This is great, many thanks. Subbed.
Awesome! thank you for this!
Thanks!! Salud desde España
The Stewmac Fret Kisser looks good but the price is ridiculous, good idea man!
Yeah for sure. I love Stew Mac tools but have to pick and choose which ones to get.
Pretty cool bro you got my sub...
I have a fret kisser and I hardly ever use it. I have quite a few Stew Mac tools. At least they all have a warranty but if Stew Mac ever goes out of business I'm screwed lol.
@@studowling haha well I am sure they are built to last. They are extremely well made. For me, it is partly necessity breeding ingenuity but mostly enjoyment of making tools.
this is genius
I may be mistaken about something here but: when you are sanding the fret with, say the 220 first, how do you know just when to stop? Going to another grit will reduce the surface more. Also; after the fret is level with the others doesn’t the emery board reduce the surface even more so that it’s now lower than the adjacent frets? I’ve never done any fret work at all, but definitely want to start.
Good question. So with this, it will automatically stop sanding when the frets are level. So you do want to switch to the 320 and 400 before the fret is level. The emory board will not lower the fret enough as long as it is a buffing side.
Great idea! What would you recommend is the easiest way to round off the fret top if enough material was removed? Crowning files then risk doing a bad job and taking too much off or being uneven with the radius.
@@ElijahG98 So once the fret is level then you want to mark off the top to make sure you don't take off any height.
@@ElijahG98 ua-cam.com/video/Ye_3dasggpw/v-deo.htmlsi=rKPOlwNVsgdvYFYM
@@Stringing_It_Together ok thanks! Also I think you may have linked the wrong video, its sending me to some random temu toolbox.
@@ElijahG98 ua-cam.com/video/VB16zNfH-nY/v-deo.htmlsi=sepN2G0H4J4_cgX9 Right lol. I copied a redirected ad. There it is above there.
@@Stringing_It_Together Haha NP, thanks!
What department did you find the prism at Walmart ? Thanks for the video.
@@hymnplayer I only found it online from Walmart. Amazon has some too but they are more expensive (in Canada at least). Anything you know is perfectly flat that covers three frets would also work.
@@Stringing_It_TogetherThanks for the information.
genius!!!!
Will the sandpaper hold up with stainless steel frets?
I would say for that just use 220 on all three sides.. that way when it does wear out; you would just turn it to the fresh side. If you get some double sided tape also, it only takes a minute or so to switch to fresh sandpaper. Also, use aluminum oxide sandpaper.