How to Drive Stick Shift and Rev Match in a BRZ!
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Many people requested that I make a tutorial of how to drive a manual transmission so here it is! Let me know some of your tips for driving a manual and I might include them as annotations in the video!
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When u'r on hill and u don't want to roll back, here tip: So ur standing still and both clutch and break are pushed in, so when u see green light or u wanna start without rolling back, keep ur foot on break, release a bit clutch until the sound of the motor changes, u'll hear/feel it, make sure u don't fully release the clutch. Now u can release break pedal, and u'll see it doesn't roll back, now u can push a bit gas and release slowly the clutch to get moving, like he explained in the video. Thumbs up so everyone can see it,
I hope it was helpful, any questions, ask, I'm myself learning/driving not for long, and this helps a lot on hills.
True, but this depends on the vehicle. On under-powered vehicles, this will result in stalling the car (I did it by accident lol, so I know this) but your are 100% correct (in my short experience) on adequately powered vehicles.
Or you could just use the hand brake. Using your clutch to keep you from rolling back is not good for it.
U keep ur foot on brake, after the light turns green or when u move then u do it like i said above. But it's all personal preferences :)
Here in the UK we all drive manuals and we learn to use the handbrake/emergency brake when doing a hillstart. That way, you can get the biting point, hold your feet still and release the handbrake without rolling back.
Here in the U.S. we don't do a hell of a lot of parking on hills steep enough for uphill starts to be a huge problem. And of course most of our vehicles have enough low-end torque that you can put the vehicle in first gear, keep your foot on the brake and as the clutch is partially engaged move your right foot from the brake to the accelerator.
During ANY high-load start such as on a hill, its safest to keep ONE HAND ON THE WHEEL and the OTHER ON THE SHIFTER just in case the transmission isn't fully in gear and tries to pop out or the vehicle jerks or stalls and you need to rapidly shift to neutral while moving your accelerator foot to the brake. We generally learn that clutches are engaged as much as possible and disengaged as little as possible.
And of course a hell of a lot of Americans learn to drive manual transmission vehicles in light-duty or even medium-duty trucks where the stupid heel-toe shit is not only impossible but even more pointless than in some "sports car" with a wannabe race driver who thinks he's hot shit trying to do manually what the transmission is designed to do automatically.
Sitting idle with the transmission in gear or neutral and the clutch pedal partially or completely depressed OR having the clutch disengaged a ridiculously long period of time while doing the stupid "heal-toe" throttle blip downshift shit or engaging and disengaging the clutch TWICE to shift ONCE by using equally moronic "double clutching" when that ALSO is entirely unnecessary with synchromesh transmissions is just stupid and it wears out the release bearing, pilot bearing, input shaft bearings and the input shaft and clutch disk splines prematurely and unnecessarily.
Back in the old days when clutch release bearings could be and were lubricated when the clutch was adjusted, which was necessary with organic friction materials and mechanical linkages, that wasn't such a big deal. Clutches also had a lot less clamping force because the engines didn't have as much "horsepower" but had good low-end torque so slipping the clutch to any degree was rarely necessary and the vehicles had lower gears for even more help.
Now with hydraulic clutch release bearings, sealed release bearings that can't be lubricated and much higher clamping loads because vehicles are higher-geared and many clutches are much smaller and have more clamping loads, excessive clutch pedal riding or periods of disengagement when the transmission could be put in neutral and the clutch engaged is a bigger problem.
In the old days clutches were typically Borg and Beck or other similar designs that used several individual coil springs to apply clamping force and those clutches retained all or nearly all of their clamping force as the friction surfaces wore because adjusting the clutch to regain free travel applied preload to the springs. Modern diaphragm clutches get weaker and weaker as time goes on and excessive heat from slipping or unnecessary shifting or engagement/disengagement cycles weaken them further.
They use Belleville washers for springs and as the compression of the washers is reduced so is the clamping load. And like all springs it cycles that weaken and "wear them out" and they can't be adjusted to provide more clamping force, so the sooner you want to replace a clutch, the more you should slip it, engage and disengage it unnecessarily, ride the clutch, etc.
Hydraulic release bearings "self-adjust" for wear, and modern friction materials and the metals used in flywheels and flex plates are more durable. So nobody notices a problem until suddenly there is no clutch when the bearing or the hydraulic actuating assembly fail because they got hot and damaged from continual clutch riding or excessive disengagement along with stupid "throttle blips" that create more friction at any given load.
The fact of that matter is that even in heavy, powerful vehicles with a LOT more torque and that are used for very heavy loads, such as turbodiesel-powered, light-duty trucks, a quality FACTORY clutch can and will last 200,000 miles or more even in a truck used to pull trailers and gross combination vehicle weights of up to 15 or 20 tons on farms and ranches where frequent starts and stops in soft ground or one hills or other challenging terrain are common.
Of course that's when those vehicles are owned and operated by knowledgeable and intelligent drivers who stick to the basic rules of thumb to only shift when necessary, use low gear in the transmission and even low range in the transfer case for starting or pulling heavy loads relatively short distances to the final destination or to a flat or slightly downhill location where starting in high range is possible and clutch slipping is minimized and to NEVER ride the clutch OR sit in a stationary vehicle wth the engine running, the clutch disengaged and the tranmission in gear for any longer than absolutely necessary. Put the transmission in neutral, engage the clutch and give every component and part of the clutch and transmission input shaft assemblies a break.
When we get 200,000 miles out of clutches under those conditions and city boys with little rice grinders are bragging about how "smooth" and "well" they drive and shift and think they're accomplishing getting similar mileage from a clutch that has maybe 1/5 the torque capacity but hasn't ever been subjected to 1/10th the load, its pretty obviously that its no the CITY BOYS with their little RICE GRINDERS who should be making UA-cam videos or writing online forum posts telling other people how to drive manual transmission vehicles.
Drivers Ed in America should teach students to drive stick first.
Automatic is very easy. I've (American) been driving an automatic SUV for about 6 years but luckily my friend, who had an A4 at the time, taught me how to drive a manual by using his.
I found it much more comfortable and you feel in control of the car. I need a truck right now but my next vehicle as a daily will be an STi no doubt.
.
change ur profile pic brah
Automatic doesn’t require skills at all
Car sounds really good.
Great guide! I think it's important to point out why drivers like manual. It's not about the efficiency or performance anymore, it's more like about engagement and fun.
Most definitely. It’s also very satisfying when you switch gears smoothly. It’s all about being efficient and smoove. But most importantly as u pointed out, it’s all about fun!!!
My handbrake failed and my car rolled into my fence lol.
+Michael Rodriguez should have had it in gear
+WULDNAHKEST the clutch is engaged which stops it from rolling like how on an automatic car if you have it in drive on a hill it wont roll back
+WULDNAHKEST Because when the car is in a gear that's not reverse, it doesn't let the car roll backwards because of the way the gears are oriented.
+WULDNAHKEST from my understanding being in gear = having the engine connected to the transmission. When the engine is off and not moving at all and the transmission is connected to it, it can't go anywhere.
Rolly McRollface.
One advice to those WHO are learning to drive manual and watch this video. DO NOT NEVER REST YOUR LEG ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL. ALWAYS REST YOUR FOOT AGAINST "FOOT REST" OR AGAINST THE "FLOOR" IN FRONT OF THE CLUTCH. Its fine if you dont have any pressure on it (like i presume in the video) and if you have driven long enough to know not to even accidentally resting your foot on the pedal.
Here is why this is important: If you start that habit its very easy to at some point just forget to keep you foot raised a bit. If you keep pressure on the clutch pedal by resting your foot on it while driving down the road, you will wear the clutch pretty fast.
Nice video though. Feeling kind of superior when all i want to drive is manual haha :D. Automatic is just plain booring... Its so much fun when you learn to master manual. Car does what ever you want it to do and it doesnt feel a forced thing to do. Plus I hate the lagg on automatic when you suddenly put your foot down.. And if you do so, it usually switches too small gear in..
Love the double negative.
Jajal's Channel Haha sorry, my native language isn't english. Since my native language has double negatives its easy to forget it when typing english.
BluWarta92 Are you kidding? Your english is better than most youtube commenters who's native language is english. BTW, you made excellent points in you comment.
Jajal's Channel Thank you for your compliments :)
Jajal's Channel Thank you for your compliments :)
Whenever I had my manual, and I was on a hill, I would use the clutch and the footbrake to stop. But then I'd slowly come off the clutch. Once I felt the clutch start to grab, I'd let off on the brake and very gently press the throttle/gas to maintain power. Getting the balance just right keeps the car stopped without holding the brake. You can test this in a automatic on a steep incline to see what I mean. Use the brake to stop, let off and the car will roll. Gently press on the gas just enough to stop the car from rolling. All you do differently is use the clutch to send power to the wheels. That's also the best way to learn how touchy your clutch and gas are. Find a empty parking lot with a hill and "bounce" the car without going over the hill. Another problem people come across is nerves. They psych themselves out before they even get in the car. Just hop in and go. Don't think about it. Your body and natural driving ability will kick in quicker than you'd think.
Please post another video on how not to damage your clutch and how fast to take off your foot and maintain your car for beginners. Thank you
its all about feel and different for different vehicles. Figure it out by feel for your own vehicle by driving it
#SaveTheManual!
Most europeans use manuals instead of automatics (from what i've heard). But yes in america we are fatties who like to eat mcdonalds while driving.
If I'm not mistaken in Europe its mandatory to learn on a manual . you have to take the test with a manual so lucky for them but for us on the other hand its a dying breed
In France most people use manual and if yon take the test with an auto you are not allowed to drive a manual.
nigel dickson I think you can learn in an automatic but then you can only drive an automatic, could be wrong tho.
I just got my 2014 brz and I’ve been driving for about 3 days still getting used to it but since the first day just a little chugging and maybe one stall every drive mostly hills😂
Forgive me if I sound cocky, but this doesn't look as hard as everyone makes it out to be. It seems like something that if you practice enough for a few weeks it becomes second nature.
You don't sound cocky at all, I thought it was going to be something so foreign and hard that I'd never get it when my dad started teaching me, but within two days of practice, it became second nature, it's exactly how you put it. It's all muscle memory
Your absolutely correct man, not cocky at all. It's so simple, you just have to be curious, start off slow, feel it out.
So I just learned today. Not that hard, just something that need practice. I only stalled out once, luckily the truck I used has a very easy feel clutch and it lets you know if it wants gas. The only thing I really have to work on is breaking the "feel" of driving auto, smoothing out first and reverse and downshifting properly. Otherwise, very fun and enlightening experience!
Darkmatter28031 Yep, the car definitely lets you know when it needs gas. I don't know if this sounds silly but cars have a way of letting you know what you need to do :P
Darkmatter28031 I haven't had a manual for a year or so, and I still make the motions of shifting every time I drive. I tell people to do that if they feel spooked about driving manual until they understand the motions.
Don't keep your foot on the clutch when driving (apart from shifting of course).
It will wear your clutch out faster.
That's why they give you the dummy pedal.
America : place where you can obtain driving license without knowing how to use a shift
Elio Milite
Australia too :/.
Great video, and you're cute too :)
Thanks to both :)
Great vid man! You live on the east coast?
does he tho?
@@Fg4Lucki idk maybe
Come to europe we will show you how to drive shift lol
In all serious the when you learn it its like riding a bike you wont ever forget.
In the uk 95% of cars are stick but autos are getting more popular
About putting it in 1st or Reverse when it's parked: When you are parked on a hill, you would want to put it in the same gear than what the car is facing. I'll explain: If the car is facing uphill, you would want to put it in 1st, is it facing downhill, you'd put it in reverse. The idea is, should the handbrake fail, and the car is facing steep downhill, it will be more likely to still be moving when it's in 1st than when it's in reverse. Putting it in gear does NOT LOCK the transmission, it keeps the car in place because of the compression in the engine is enough to not allow the engine to be rotated by the force applied on the wheels. If you'd put it on a steep downhill in 6th gear without handbrake, it will be almost sertenly still roll down the hill!
Nice shoes. :-)
Lol
3:36 - NEVER START ANY CAR WHILE THE STICK IS IN GEAR. Disengaging the clutch is always a good habit, but it doesn't negate the need to neutral the transmission.
I simply fail to understand the sheer LAZINESS behind not wanting to move the stick into neutral before punching the engine start button. This bad habit will bite you one day - one slip-up and the car will jump into the wall in front of you or, worse, another person.
Just got a 23 brz, and I’m watching this video from 9 years ago lol. Very cool. Hope you’re well!
Haha your face is priceless when you accelerate quickly xD good tutorial!
Isn't it better to put the car in neutral so that you don't have to keep the clutch in at red lights? something to do with the throwout bearing getting messed up in the transmission if you keep the clutch in for long periods of time.
bro i just realise you look like the main actor in born to race
He has been in movies
Thank you! This is probably the 50th video I’ve seen on this topic, yours has been the most comprehensive.
Great video, I watched this like 3 times and I got my civic manual in April got the hang of it in a week and feels good to b driving something I always wanted to learn
I know how to drive stick but I always look for other videos to see how other people do it. Thank you for doing this vid, you're very detailed.
The BRZ sounds so good. Great video, btw. Learned on a Miata but wanted some more pointers. Thanks a lot.
i'm pretty sure he has an aftermarket exhaust, so i wouldn't expect that sound from a stock brz.
rjmari True, but it still sounds really good. Haha
talk about downshifting
I just started watching your videos and I really love them:) Do you know how much an STi would be if I want it from a dealer? I REALLY love the STi's I've ALWAYS dreeeeeamed of getting one ever since I was 15 and now I'm 18 almost 19 and I really need your opinion about the STi or the Evo on which one I should get. And again I love your reviews
thank you so much i'm tryna learn manual i'm getting a brz this year around AUG thank you so much.
The easiest teacher on UA-cam.
learned stick on a '54 mg
I learned stick on a '53 Ford logging truck... that thing was awesome! really tricky when full of wood... but driving stick is still really fun!
haha nice and the brakes on the mg weren't very responsive (had to apply a strong amount of force) so it probably wasn't the best car to learn on but now every car I drive is easier than that.
So I'm thinking about buying a 350 z manual without ever driving manual and just learning of these videos you think that's a good idea? I think I get the jist of it.
Its body memorization... getting the feeling of the car.. and getting to know the sound of your engine. You will get it... I just a stick last Friday and I love it .
I know this is 3 years late but I pretty much bought a WRX and learned manual on it after buying it. It’s definitely possible and ideal if there’s no way you could practice on someone else’s manual car. I personally don’t know anyone with a manual car so I had to learn after buying my car.
@@kevinnorris6558 yeah I agree with Kevin. This is 3 years late but I bought an Si like a month ago and have been driving it ever since. I drove a stick 8 years ago before I got this car. I basically watched a crap ton of videos on how to drive stick. I didn’t have access to a stick car so had no other choice. Then I got one and just put my knowledge to the test. This is something you do have to put your hands on to learn.
every time he switched gears he made that "FUCK YEAH!!!!!!" face lol good video man.
i can't wait to get my FR-S!!!!!!!
Best way to learn is just get in a manual car and teach yourself
So if I want to get a stick shift car, how am I supposed to get it to a safe practice area, if I don't have someone I know that can drive stick.
That's your problem bro lol
Rumpleforeskiiin That's what I thought I would get in response. Oh well, I guess I will figure it out when I need to.
empty parking lot is great
One thing you can do to build SMALL confidence with the feel: Get in, start the car, re-park it back and forth GENTLY (feeling the clutch engage is a big part)
Els we Be Thank's.
Hey subaruwrxfan, I have a question dude...or for anybody that knows. Whenever properly revmatch, you clutch in and then do you stab the gas before your shift down, or do you shift down and then stab the gas?
JustDriftIt sorry
Rev-Matching does not kill your clutch as fast as simply sticking the car in lower gear and waiting for your RPM's to painfully bounce up as the engine matches the transmission speed. Rev-matching in general is used for the track but you can use it every day. Its always a good idea to down-shift as they teach you in driving school, just before coming to a complete red light. You never know when you may need to 'move out of the way quickly.' So in short, I rev-match, heel-n-toe my BMW all the time and i'm still on the original clutch at 240,000 kms. Just learn to utilize everything properly and it will all last a long time. Money shift and power shifting is really really stupid unless you have a true racing dog box.
1st to 2nd how many revs? my shift from 1st to 2nd is still a little jolty and i hate it
great video... when I was a kid, my uncle would take me out on drives with his stick shifter and he would work the gas, brakes and clutch and get me to shift the gears. Years passed and my uncle passed away, rest his soul, but I never actually learned how to drive stick for myself. I've had my license for about 5 years now and I am proficient with automatics, but looking to learn more about driving stick. I get the philosophy and the rules behind it, but havent actually got any real hands on practice with it... As a kid, I found it mildly interesting when I was with my uncle, but its times like this....when my interest in it is high that I miss the drives with him :)
great car btw.... I too am a big fan of the WRX and the BRZ
make him happy and drive a manual car
resolved to make that my next car :)
hahaha awesome! i too am trying
best of luck to you man
likewise man! drive safe and enjoy~
The normal UA-cam "manual transmission expert" advice to go buy a beater and beat the hell out of it while you learn is stupid. At some point you're going to have to or want to graduate from your "trainer" to a nicer vehicle or a larger, heavier or otherwise more challenging vehicle to drive. Doing stupid shit with beaters is nothing but a good way to learn bad habits.
Just like watching UA-cam "how-to" videos is a really poor way to learn anything. The heel-toe and double-clutching bullshit most of these "experts" preach is not only a complete waste of time and energy, there's no better way to accomplish nothing but increasing wear and tear on the clutch, clutch release bearing, trans input shaft, clutch disk, pilot bearing etc AND the vehicle brakes as you try to play "sport driver" and jack around trying to operate three pedals with two feet simultaneously all so you can "speed match" the engine and transmission while driving a vehicle equipped with a synchromesh transmission that was specifically designed to DO THAT FOR YOU.
The "experts" who act like a throttle blip is all it takes to "speed match" and that they're the ones doing it when its the synchronizers in the transmission doing what they THINK they're doing the overwhelming majority of the time are pretty funny. And they're clueless. If they were really doing the "speed matching" themselves as they'd have to with a non-synchronized transmission, they wouldn't be using the clutch at all because speed matching with the engine speed varied to match transmission mainshaft speed pretty much requires the clutch to remain ENGAGED so the input shaft is TURNED by the engine until the input shaft and mainshaft speeds MATCH.
If you disengage the clutch and THEN blip the throttle, you're not speed matching SHIT because the shafts you're trying to synchronize aren't both TURNING. But they do their little heel-toe dance, put some "preload" on the shifter and synchronizers and when the speeds get close enough that the synchronizer can do the "matching" by slowing down the mainshaft while speeding up the input shaf and the transmission finally "goes into gear" as the synchronizers go from being brakes to locking collars conecting gears to shafts, they think THEY DID IT!
Of course if they'd simply slow down sufficiently that the downshift won't "redline" the engine and would rapidly disengage the clutch, and quickly and firmly move the shifter to the next lowest gear while the input shaft speed is already going plenty slow for the synchronizer to work without being overloaded, they could downshift in a fraction of a second and then relatively SLOWLY allow the clutch to engage so that the VEHICLE would brake the engine and vice versa. Which after all is the NORMAL goal OF a downshift when its being done as you slow the vehicle rather than to get more rapid acceleration for speeding up. Then they could let that big brake under the hood get to work producing a LOT more braking WITHOUT wearing out or even USING the regular brakes or if necessary using them a smaller extent.
Shifting QUICKLY and minimizing clutch DISENGAGEMENT and ENGAGEMENT times and cycles is the BEST WAY to make EVERYTHING INVOLVED last as long as possible. Release bearings aren't made for prolonged loads at high speeds from "throttle blips" while they're as heavily loaded as possible, pilot bearings aren't made to endure repeated and long-lasting periods of having their tiny needle bearings and very minimal lubrication overloaded as the input shaft spins at a far higher or lower speed than the bearing race in the crankshaft and the torsional damper components of a clutch disk which help reduce clutch disk spline and input shaft wear can't function when the disk is flapping around in the breeze and rattling around on the input shaft.
So basically they're long, drawn-out, unnecessary, pointless and really IGNORANT "speed matching" efforts and heel-toe dancing trying to operate 3 pedals simultaneously with 2 feet to do what one foot and one hand and the transmission's own parts can do and WILL do when they're finally done jacking around are really just excellent ways to wear shit out prematurely. Which is why most of those manual transmission experts are really impressed with not only their "skills" in the shifting department but managing to get maybe all of 150,000-200,000 miles out of the factory clutch. Clearly they don't know that far larger, heavier and WAY more heavily loaded but PROPERLY DRIVEN and INTELLIGENTLY SHIFTED vehicles get 200,000+ miles out of THEIR clutches to. And some more like 400,000 or even 500,000.
Why? Because the guys and gals who own them and rely on them for their livelihood AND who can't afford downtime and damn sure don't want to do anything but drive their vehicles for maximum efficiency and reliability and durability don't JACK AROUND PLAYING HEAL-TOE SPEED RACER or "DOUBLE-CLUTCHING DADDY" as they shift a SYNCHROMESH TRANSMISSION that's designed specifically so SPEED MATCHING and DOUBLE CLUTCHING are NOT necessary.
So if you really want to learn how to drive manual transmission vehicles properly and well and develop GOOD HABITS that will benefit you and any vehicle you drive, find someone who has a light-duty or medium-duty truck with low gears, plenty of torque and a lot of "toughness" in the powertrain so you're not killing the damn thing every other minute as you practice taking off in low gear in various conditions and that also has some weight and intertia and low-end power so once you get it moving you can keep it moving as you shift as quickly and smoothly as you COMFORTABLY can. Most of these clowns mention "speed" like its a great goal to strive for in shifting, but if you'll notice how MOST of the "speed shift", you'll see their vehicles are anything but "smooth".
The point is to keep the vehicle moving straight ahead with continuous acceleration while in gear but with minimum jerking or bucking or jumping during clutch disengagement and rengagement. When their cars "hop" during a shift, that's the opposite of "smooth" and they're just adding wear and tear and are actually WASTING power that could otherwise be moving the car FORWARD rather than BOUNCING it. Somebody who is really good and fast and smooth with a manual makes it look easy, but mainly because they're TAKING IT EASY. No matter how fast you can move your feet and hands, the SYCHRONIZERS need a little time to do their work and complete the shift and the clutch needs time to grab solidly before you pour on the coal after an upshift.
MISSED GEARS are ALWAYS an over-anxious driver who is out of synch with the car, and there isn't a missed shift in the world that's better than a "slow" and/or "sloppy" shift since when the shifter gets jammed into the next gear and suddenly stops, its the SYNCHRONIZERS taking a beating as they try to slow down and speed up and speed match parts they don't have a chance in hell of slowing down or speeding up to speed match them.
Anybody who is really good and smooth and EFFICIENT and knows how to shift a manual well and MAKE IT LAST not only won't preach "do this" or "don't do that", he or she won't have to say a thing. All they have to do is drive while you watch and you'll learn all you need to know. Shifting is like a golf swing or shooting form or anything else where there is a supposed "perfect" technique that not only DOESN'T make professionals out of all those who HAVE '"perfect form", its actually fairly rare AMONG real professionals who realize that what works for them and is comfortable is what got them where they were because they enjoyed it, enjoyed practicing and training and kept after it and didn't let the "experts" tell them what they were doing "wrong". They just kept doing what worked and it worked better and better until they were better than most or ALL of the "experts" with "perfect form".
That's what driving is. If it doesn't feel right and doesn't feel good and natural, why freaking do it? To impress somebody else?
Well detailed video, much appreciated.
don't ride the clutch pedal
Why the heck did I watch a 20 min video? I know how to drive a manual.
I love your vids dude! Always waiting for a weekly update and always ready to see another BRZ acceleration at the end of your vids! Keep it up
My first car might be a BRZ sport-tech I'm so nervous I don't want to wreck the car but I've been a enthusiast all my life so I think I'll do good
HayRiver12 I'm going from a 2013 automatic FRS to a manual BRZ and I'm scared lol
did you get the brz?
Thinh Pham actually in the process I didn't ink it would actually happen but we've picked the car and are talking to the dealership
Man, that exhaust is drony
That reverse gear must be so annoying...
I need help gearing down fast, cause I'm always driving fast
Hey man, quick question everyone says when stopping or slowing down to throw the car in neutral. What if you are slowing down/ stopping for example for a red light and it turns green again how would you then shift back. Would you go into 1st gear say you're going 35 then the light turns green again would you quickly shift up to correct gear? Doesn't it throw the RPM's super high if you're going say 35 and go into 1st gear suddenly? Could you possibly clarify this for me. Or someone clarify it.
put it in 2nd, you are already moving
Practice does not make perfect. Practice makes permanent.
Ayyyyy
what about sex? oh yeah you're right. the girl gets pregnant. =(
Stop keeping your foot on the clutch, it wears out like crazy lol.
He says it in the video not to do it. Your self looks dumb now
My bad, I must have missed that part :D
Fuzzy Drop No he doesn't. You can keep the clutch pressed in. Standing on the clutch is when you keep the clutch at the grab point for extended periods. The clutch should ONLY be at the grab point/friction zone when accelerating from a stop. Otherwise you should press it in all the way to change gears. You don't need to feather the clutch and gas together while the vehicle is moving as long as you let the clutch out smoothly. Quickly, but smoothly. You can always "bop" the gas to give it just a tiny boost in RPM when doing so, but I wouldn't recommend it.
Jamming the clutch pedal all the way to the floor is of no benefit given the fact that the clutch pedal and/or linkage have stops to prevent further movement and those stops are positioned so that the pedal stops moving long after the clutch is completely disengaged.
Especially with modern hydraulically-actuated clutches, Once the master cylinder piston reaches a certain point in its travel, fluid flow to the slave cylinder is cut off no matter how much further the piston travels. Otherwise excess pressure would damage or destroy the pressure lines, seals, etc.
And I don't have any clue why people are referring to the point where the clutch disk first begins to be clamped between the pressure plate and flywheel and begins slipping as the "grab point". Its exactly the opposite. A clutch that is slipping is not "grabbing" and it isn't until the clutch pedal is released enough at clamping load has overcome slippage and the clutch is locked up with additional engagement only adding additional load that the clutch has actually "grabbed".
By NOT depressing the pedal all the way to its stop, you develop a feel for the clutch engagement and disengagement and you're not tentatively letting up on the pedal waiting for the so-called "grab point" while the clutch itself hasn't even begun to engage. The entire point behind modern diaphragm-style clutches and their Belleville washer "springs" is that they deliver higher clamping loads with reduced pedal effort and that they're usually centrifugally "boosted" by weights that cause more load to be applied as engine speeds increase.
Those increased loads and increased speeds actually make them HARDER to accurately and precisely "speed shift" with and are the reason why "missed shifts" are so common with modern, "high-tech" synchromesh transmissions that should be all but IMPOSSIBLE to miss gears in WHEN the clutch is disengaged fully BEFORE shifting. The wannabe "experts" who "preload" the shifter by pushing or pulling on it to any degree so that when the clutch BEGINS to release and slips enough for the load and torque to be sufficienly lowered at the synchronizers with the tranny then popping into neutral are pretty cluless First of all, it IS damned hard on synchros, forks, linkage, etc and SECONDLY the amount of load REDUCTION necessary for the tranmission to jump OUT OF GEAR is ALWAYS going to be far lower than the load reduction necessary for the synchronizers to do their thing and speed-match the parts for the upshift or downshift.
Sure, you can JAM the trans into gear at whatever level of clutch slippage allows it to pop out and be jammed into the next gear. But only for a while. And if you're already reengaging the clutch AND hitting the throttle WHILE the synchros are still shifting and are being otherwise stressed by being jammed into gear and binding but if feels like a "good shift" because its "fast" and the engine speed barely drops, its only a matter of time before you start shelling out synchronizers. And no "throttle blip" pseudo-speed matching during downshifts when everything is slowing down anyway and the synchros are still doing the actual speed matching helps synchronizers that are being beat on and abused during upshifts.
All of these wannabe gear jammers that think they're Ronnie Sox or Grump Jenkins in a rice grinder and really think they're smooth based on speed and lack of engine speed loss while their shifters are jerking around all over when they reengage the clutch and the car is bouncing up and down aren't going to think they're so smooth if they keep their cars long enough for their shitty technique and focus on speed rather than consistency and complete shifts with minimum effort and force to catch up with them. Or rather to catch up with their transmissions.
Especially since many modern transaxles are no longer serviceable as far as being able to drain them and refill them with lubricant. Manufacturers long ago figured out that that the people buying the little rice grinders tend to be young and pretty car dumb and were more likely to either perform no maintenance or improper maintenance using incorrect fluids and in some cases would drain the transaxle and refill it with engine oil thinking they were changing the engine oil.
And since the only thing worse on modern syncrhomesh transmission syncrhonizers and the materials in them than NO OIL is the WRONG OIL, manufacturers just decided to use premium synthetic factory fill lubes, remove as many potential leak points as possible, remove external plugs entirely and put the money saved not making the transaxles serviceable into super-duper seals where leaks were possible.
Of course the dealerships can and will still pull oil samples from used cars and cars brought in for transaxle problems under warranty, and since there's no way to drain away the telltale evidence of abuse in the form of burned oil, particles and fragments from damaged parts, etc. there's no way to sucker a dealer or knowledgeable private buyer by changing the transmission fluid or dumping in some miracle lube to make it shift decently if the tranny has been abused or the clutch is shot or both.
Even if a vehicle is taken in for sheduled maintenance or service, just because the trans fluid can't be changed and the vehicle is low mileage doesn't mean the dealer won't pull a sample and have it tested. One way or another they're all getting wise to hot-rodders and "Tuners" and all their little toys and tricks. Not that they ever had much of a REAL chance of fooling anybody with half a clue. Even tuners and programmers that supposedly don't leave "fingerprints" in the vehicle computers are still creating things like abnormal fluid temperatures and pressures, abnormal injector pulsewidths,, funky O2 sensor outputs etc etc etc.
And all those "maximum" and "minimum" values for a small or large number of "critical" data points as determined by the manufacturer and the codes that go with them but that may not activate a disabled Check Engine light the tuner or programmer has "turned off" are still stored along with the data that produced them. And they're virtually impossible to remove because they get "burned into" the core system software every time a new "record high" or "record low" is set.
They can also be stored on any or all of the various vehicle controllers and processors, which is increasing common as a whole pile of controllers that have one specific system they're responsible for are all networked together on a CAN-bus so they all get all the data on the network and they all sort out and store data they're programmed to keep even if its completely unrelated to their system and function on the vehicle.
Manufacturers don't even hate tuners and programmers and other "bolt-on" modifications since there's no better justification for voiding a warranty and no better way to sell NEW vehicles than to have their OLDER vehicles turned into junk and maybe even salvage-titled junk when a whole pile of bolt-ons and the missing factory parts they replaced result in a vehicle that's completely worthless to an OEM dealer and even most good used car dealers and most private buyers. Nobody wants somebody elses castoff late-model" hot-rod to pay even a fraction of wholesale bluebook value if it were a stocker in average condition.
All these guys dumping stupid money into expensive vehicles and spending many times more than it would cost to build a project car in order to have a hot-rod "daily driver" or "sleeper" have no clue that someday their pride and joy won't be worth what it would have been left bone-stock and unmodified no matter how much they've dumped into "mods". Guys who want hot-rods tend to either BUILD THEM or PAY TO HAVE THEM BUILT and they don't look at someone else's old project as anything but another used car and an incomplete and compromised one at that.
Wrong! You'll kill the release bearing. Put it to neutral and release the clutch.
the only thing i dont know is this, when you start in first gear, you press the gas and let out the clutch slowly, but what about when you shift to 2nd gear? do you still have to gas and then let the clutch out or just let the clutch out then gas???
yes you still have to gas it shifting into 2nd gear. The higher gear number you go the less gas you need to shift it. You wont need as much gas for 2nd as for 1st. 1st is always the most challenging because you are gathering momentum, once you are moving it is much easier.
oh ok thanks, i always wondered that, ive driven many manuals (not for over 10 minutes) and ive never been able to figure out if i gas it in 2nd or not, it worked both ways but i wanted some input from the more experience drivers
tacos4u632 I just started driving for my licsense (16 yo) and when I shift to 2nd I release the gas, press in the clutch, shift to 2nd, release the clutch and by the last part for the clutch to be fully releaser I give is som slight gas and when the clutch is fullt out I give it more gas to get ready for 3rd. My dad have driven like this for 30+ years so I do it that way.
No don't listen to that guy. You defiantly do not need to has it as you are shifting into second. You can left off the gas fully before ever putting the clutch in and shifting. And same with every other gear after
Scott Brixey
you dont HAVE to gas it but is that something that you want a beginner whos unsure of the shifting process to do? You will learn how to do it with time. This thread is hella old lol.
What would you recommend ?? Holding the clutch and braking, or putting it in neutral and brake.
Sebastian Reyes If you are going to be stopped for any length of time it's better to be in neutral so you don't wear down your clutch, however, if you are at a stop sign, or yielding, it's better to have it in gear with the clutch in just incase you have to get up and go, or if a light turns green as you stop, it really just depends on the situation
When downshifting, you press down the clutch then shift gears then jab the gas and then release clutch right?
Yes
Downshift is
clutch in
neutral
clutch out
tap the gas
clutch in
move into lower gear
clutch out
when you put into neutral and clutch out and tap the gas itll bring the speed in the transmission to the same speed as the engine
youll smoke with a clutch in and jab the gas method
Thats why they call it "double clutch" not "single clutch" to perform a correct downshift the clutch goes in twice
Ryan T Nobody really double-clutches anymore for a few decades now. I had to do it though when I drove an old army truck when the synchros went bad. I guess it's still a good idea to know how to double-clutch.
Ryan T Nobody really double-clutches anymore for a few decades now. I had to do it though when I drove an old army truck when the synchros went bad. I guess it's still a good idea to know how to double-clutch.
Absolutely, maybe it can teach people why 1st and Reverse grind if your even rolling the slightest bit... Those gears are rarely synchro'ed.
Heel-toe shifting is another animal that the everyday driver certainly doesnt need to know
Ryan T It makes sense to heel-toe, I don't see any point in trying to double clutch and I will not do it. :)
Great man and thank you for this work
Continued to view more
i ♥ you ^^
Ummm... I learned to drive a manual in 2 hours...
That was really well explained. I want to learn manual one day soon. This video helped me understand.
Thanks for the quick answer :)
Whenever i see drivers using stick shift and rev macthing it always hypes me to drive manual. Ive driven auto and theyre so boring for me. I live in cali so stick isnt really helpful but whatever i want my first car a manual transmission, theyre just so fun to drive.
Hey great video, and tutorial. Don't listen to all the haters giving negative responses. If you think you can do better, then make your own video, and get off this video. I used to drive 1st eclipse 5spd, 4 banger and I loved driving stick. I wanna get back to driving one, I really liked your evo x review, as I've seen them all, or an 06 sti. Keep up the great videos, and who cares about heel and toeing. That doesn't make you a better driver. Its hard to do that when your 6'5" and you fit snugly into a car, leg gets in the way of the wheel, and I wouldn't want my foot to slip off, and rear end someone.
I just started driving my first manual (got a BRZ a couple days ago) and I put it in neutral and just brake then shift to 1st when we start going. How my father taught me.
Another video hee toe, please
After watching this video it made me decide to buy a BRZ In a manual. I’m tall and have knee problems and since i have another car the BRZ Doesn’t have to be my daily and deal with that and traffic
You should have angled the camera downwards to show stick, we didn't need to see your face for this one.
I've recently bought my brz. When shifting from 1st into 2nd, I feel something weird, it's almost like gear grinding, i'm not sure. it's just my wild guess. Years ago when I got my license, I drove in my instructor's 5-speed car and accidentally tried to shift the car from 5th to reverse, and I know what gear grinding feels like. This Brz is nothing like that in terms of sound, it's just very very minor sound that I suspect is gear grinding, can't think of anything else.
I'm still not perfect at driving manual, so it may just me doing something wrong. Does anyone else have this issue? It's a new car just off the production line.
Brian I have a 13 brz. I have the same “issue” as you. From what I’ve heard from other owners is that it’s kinda just how it is from factory, I have a friend with a wrx too and subarus are known for their kinda rough 1st to 2nd gear switch. My only advice would be to switch from 1st to 2nd after you get rolling pretty fast without giving it gas at all while shifting.
In my country, you need to get a license to drive manual. Driving a manual with an Auto license is like driving without a license in the eyes of the law.
The good thing is, I learned to drive a manual and that's what I took my test in. It was a 1.9L Skoda Octavia TDI, being a Diesel engine, it was very very very easy to start... All you have to do was pull the clutch slowly... You didn't even need to apply gas... No matter what kind of road it was. Now, I own a manual 2013 Seat Ibiza 1.4L, not the fastest of cars, but I like it, and I get to practice a lot of manual tricks in it!
The only tip I have is 1 and R gear are only gear you grab and push on shifter. All other gears you can switch with a finger (or open palm) pulling or pushing shifter it goes into gear automatic. Otherwise keep left foot on foot rest & cruze. Clutch is hard to burn even if you try.
probably one of the best videos explaining stick shift. thank you!
actually, stalling is better than giving it too much gas and slowly burning your clutch away. My dad always told me to get as close to stalling as possible when starting off to see where the engagement point of the clutch was. stalling isn't the end of the world and clutches are expensive
@subaruwrxfan I'm learning on my mom's 2000 Accord. The woman has the patience of a saint. This video has helped me better understand rev matching. Thank you Matt :)
Best "How to drive a stick" video I've seen so far!
Where do you rest your right foot when letting the Cruise Control run things?
My 2nd gen Honda Civic Hatch Si had a little unintentional gap in the tunnel which I used for that. My Kia Forte5, nope.
I'm considering an FR-S, I appreciate your hints.
Practice 1st gear on your driveway that has a incline that will make your car roll once youve release you hand brakes and foot of the breaks, shift into first gear and practice balancing your gas with your clutch engagment, reverse is basicaly 1st gear in reverse, its how I learned no teacher what so ever so..other notes shifting into other gears are cake after your first gear.
Anyone have an issue where shifting up to 2nd or 3rd you get some slight clunky sound (the sound you get when you are in a higher gear than your speed and RPM) for a split second? I've been getting this whether i shift at 4k RPM or at 3kRPM. Maybe my RPMs arent higher enough?
Where I live in Canada I live in a valley and is pretty hilly everywhere and tons of traffic, so a manual doesn't make much sense in this town, would love to learn one day though.
great video guy! So, I just bought a 2013 frs. it had been about 7 years since I even drove a manual. Only took a day or two to get it back and now I drive it pretty well. But when I am down shifting into 2nd (namely when rev matching) I find it difficult at times to find 2nd. at times finding 4th from 5th I end up in 6th but it seems like I am pulling it too far to the right like there is a ledge or something when going from 3rd to 2nd. have you ever had this problem? Im guessing I just need more time behind the wheel but was just curious if others havve experienced this.
if you are stopping,just shift just from second to neutral then first. if you are just slowing down for say like a turn that doesn't require a complete stop or something don't downshift to first because you can only be in first for so long and most likely you will be going to fast for it and you don't want to kill the engine
i love the way you show ppl how to drive a MT car ... it's so funny 'cuz in europe (from where i am) driving a MT car is something you learn in driving school... a auto transmision car is more expensive. as you say, driving a MT car is like riding a bike or swimming... once learnt, you cant forget. :)
how come i can't shift while coasting in neutral? I was coasting to a red light, and it turned green, and I fully depressed the clutch and tried to move to 1st gear, but it wouldn't let me only until I stopped the car. Or can i switch to 2nd while coasting in neutral?
It actually makes the tolerance in the gear shifter worse when you rest your hand on the shifter because it puts pressure on it.
16:20 - you're not getting the match right because you're blipping the throttle from 3rd to 2nd the same amount as you were from 5th to 4th. Try not to jab at the throttle so aggressively. Control the throttle and know how much gas you need to give in order to bring the revs up appropriately. I think the first thing people need to know before practicing rev matching is where their car is going to be at XXmph at xx gear. ie: i know if i'm cruising 65-70mph in 6th in my car, I CAN put the car into 3rd, but what rpm will I be in? If you know the answer, then you'll know just how much gas you need to give before you let off the clutch to complete the rev match.
thank you for explaining it to me :)
If you feel nervous, take deep breaths. This sounds cliche, but it's a good tip. A shaky foot will make you lunge forward like a horse on steroids.
Thanks for the vid. I'm wondering how you got this car so young? Did you save up forever? Are your parents rich? Are YOU rich? Are you spoiled? No judgement. Just asking. I'm 31 and just now looking at a car this expensive.
thanks so much for making this video, im getting my driver's ed course done soon and itll be great to start driving my dad's k20a swapped crx.
Not sure how I got here, but while I am, I should point out that you actually don't need to use the gas at all for reversing. Just release the clutch slowly and the car will back up.
Hey there, just received my license yesterday and I've got this question that has been bugging me. Would you recommend releasing the clutch in 1st gear after the car as picked up? I know it won't stall the car as long as there is enough rev but my instructor told me not to just in case. What's your take on this?
There's no problem with that but the main idea at least its why I use rev matching is to have that smooth transition between the gear changes. Plus its damn good fun!
Thanks you much man I just got my new frs 2016 had no idea how to drive it was watching your video over n over again. Your video helped a lot man thanks a lot your the best man. You give the best demonstration thanks
When doing a 0-60, what rpm is better when shifting so quickly?
I just bought a manual Scion tC. Took me a few minutes to get it down. I'm so use to driving an automatic. I'm still practicing to start rolling in first, the car still jerks when I try to drive.
Started today! stalled like 7 times, i have difficulties with first gear. Second and the rest was easier. Also my cousin made me start on a hill...
I'm getting an fr-s for my first car but don't really know how to drive stick but this helped , love this car 👌🏽🗣
I have the bad habit of resting my foot on the my clutch because my car is a '94 ford explorer and the clutch is really thick. Also my e brake is on the floor and kinda gets in the way
Can you do another video on how to rev match step by step? Thank you! :)
Can you make a tutorial on first gear? Im having trouble and i stall on first when i take off sometimes and its embarrassing when your out in the city
I Dont Get DownShifting.?? Can SomeeOnee Help Mee With That Likee Anyy Tips.?
when you re match, is there anyway you can point the camera at the revs to see which rev you would downshift at? or what speed for each gear?