I have a WW that’s been sitting on the shelf for a few months cuz I just didn’t wanna put it on since all the methods I’ve seen used the nut on the turbine side to hold it for tightening, but you did it without all that nonsense and that makes it a lot easier for me to do it. I also have a catch can I want to put in before I do it, although I don’t have high hopes for it helping much with the oil ingress. Love the content big dawg, keep it up!
I like my wicked wheel. Cheep easy Made the turbo spool up way faster and at lower rpm. Nice to be able to ride the torque curve and let the eagles scream than chasing upper rpm horsepower
They are nice. But these engines are meant to run above 2200 RPMs. Lug them down and that’s when you start seeing more and more issues. Part of the reason I did the turbo swap. More air flow. Lower temps. Better for towing. Glad you like how it runs!
Great video guys love what you are doing so I will drop my 2 cents so please take it for what it is. 1. Going from 21psi of drive pressure to around 18psi is a fairly decent reduction of around 15%. And a drop of around 75-100F in EGTs is definitely significant on a non intercooler diesel. I agree a HX35 would probably see better results but that’s not bad for a $150 drop in wheel. Second I am willing to bet a GM8 would have even better results with even lower driver pressures especially with the WW2 installed. Once again the HX turbos will probably still be closer to 1:1. And my last thought is 20psi of drive pressure really isn’t crazy high especially on a diesel.
So I’ve run the GM8 and GM3 with nearly the exact same results. With the old IDI diesels you want to reduce as much heat on the exhaust side of the head as possible and keep your incoming and outgoing pressures as close to the same as possible. All of the points you just made are great. But unfortunately in the case of these engines. 20psi drive pressure for 10psi boost is terrible. Does it work? Absolutely! Would I suggest a wicked wheel? No. I’ll be strapping on a high glow upper intake today and we will take it for a spin. Who knows. Maybe that’s the magic piece missing you help get the numbers closer to 1:1
Ehh yeah the wheel is $150 but a ebay china turbo is about that as well and then the install kit is a bit more but you get way more bang for your buck since then its less drive pressure so better exhaust flow and hx35's easily boost 20psi+ stock form
I plan to use your videos to do some upgrades to my 95 6.5l. I saw in one of the comments you said the WW will be good for towing or hauling. I have a heavy camper. Do you think will make any difference? I am putting the upgrade intake you did and a cold air intake.
I have a 92 31' safari motor home with same motor. I burnt up the stock motor at 30k miles . put a refurb. Back into it with a new radiator.$$$$$!! Still gets hot on big hills and won't go over 20mph. Any suggestions appreciated!! I know there are better motors but I'm sticking to what the bus came with.
Unfortunately unless it’s a turbo model you are pretty limited. You could do a 2000 water pump. Fan and fan clutch for cooling. PTwiring lift pump and relay harness. As for power/fueling your almost going to want to find a center mount turbo van/bus engine and swap that in with your mechanical injection pump.
Hi how’s it going, was wondering if there are any good BB turbo setups, to make it loud kinda like the 03 6.0 power strokes, I’ve looks and not sure which will fit and so on
Okay this is my second message to you I'm just curious if a 6.5 has the whole on the back of the block that the vacuum pump from a6.2 has? Which also drives the oil pump so I'm just curious if they're the same in that fashion and if they are the same then why in the snot do you have to have a belt driven vacuum pump on the front of the engine if the vacuum pump on the back of a 62 works the same I'm just curious
Yes they are the same in that regard. Because the engine speed sensor goes in that rear port of a 6.5. That’s why we just delete the vac pumps. If I haven’t replied to your other message yet it’s because I’m traveling for business and will get back as soon as possible.
I may be getting a 97 Silverado 6.5 this weekend and would like to do a wicked wheel in it owned said it’s consuming some oil I’m guessing turbo may be sending it into motor but I was wondering from also hearing about it would this one also have a silencer ring for the turbo?
@@gingersnapcustoms the owner said it uses maybe 1quart a month or so and he would daily it 60-70 miles and said it runs and drives fine but who knows till you actually go and see it
@@gingersnapcustoms ok I personally haven’t done much with diesels so I’ve been watching yo ur videos a lot trying to figure out what all to look for ect on it before I get it if it isn’t bad
wtF would cause the bolts that hold the flange on the intake side (same bolts he took out here) to look like they pulled out sideways??? has anybody else seen this?? its neve been wrecked (the turbo itself)
Personally if you plan to leave the truck stock a WW would be good for towing applications. The van turbos are more efficient which means it may be worth doing on those more so than a pickup.
@@gingersnapcustoms curious as to what makes them more efficient. I've got a couple of 6.5 diesel vans and have not been able to find any turbo upgrades out there, so it looks like I'm stuck with the GM6
@@gingersnapcustoms ok. I'm guessing you've had a chance to compare the GM6 and the 7? I've got a GM7 sitting in my shop, I had just assumed the only difference was the spring operated wastegate instead of vacuum operated like the GM6.
@@t0mills it’s like a GM4 VS GM8. Not a major difference other than the wastegate actuator. Center mount turbos on these are a lot more efficient than the side mounts. So that wicked wheel will cause a better improvement overall.
It wasn’t left on the truck and the CDR had failed. That was after 500 miles of driving post cleaning them out. Didn’t matter since it got an HX40 swap a week and a half later.
@@gingersnapcustoms Gotcha, I wasn't being an asshole, just noticed it wasn't spinning easy breezy. Question, how much difference between diamond precups and the next size down? Have you ported them bigger?
@@bobbyboucher5309 that turbo was interesting. It was a GM8 and a GM4 hybrid. Ran fine. Just was weird. So pre cups don’t make a lot of difference. You’ll see more improvements from 2500psi pop pressure marine nozzle injectors.
@@gingersnapcustoms I had a 4 in my 98 for a while, all I had at the time to replace the 8 I siezed. The 4 boosted ok but hardly made a sound. Is an hx 40 a noticeable difference from a 35?
@@bobbyboucher5309 so far the HX35 has been the best bolt on and go turbo with minimal lag and good all around performance. The HX40 is a bit large and tends to be a bit more lazy across the board due to the lack of fuel these trucks make.
I have a WW that’s been sitting on the shelf for a few months cuz I just didn’t wanna put it on since all the methods I’ve seen used the nut on the turbine side to hold it for tightening, but you did it without all that nonsense and that makes it a lot easier for me to do it. I also have a catch can I want to put in before I do it, although I don’t have high hopes for it helping much with the oil ingress. Love the content big dawg, keep it up!
If you run into questions about a catch can let me know. I might have some old footage and can put a video together from when I did Casper!
Always love rewatching your videos. I was thinking of the wicked wheel but glad you said it isn't much of an upgrade
Its actually a left-hand thread; you move the spanner to the right to loosen it:)
Enjoyed the video. I have a 93 c3500 db2 so I am loving seeing real world testing. You're doing a great job!!
Thanks! Lift pump is next on the agenda! I need to get a bit more fuel line so I can run the gauge up into the cab for video purposes
I like my wicked wheel. Cheep easy Made the turbo spool up way faster and at lower rpm. Nice to be able to ride the torque curve and let the eagles scream than chasing upper rpm horsepower
They are nice. But these engines are meant to run above 2200 RPMs. Lug them down and that’s when you start seeing more and more issues. Part of the reason I did the turbo swap. More air flow. Lower temps. Better for towing. Glad you like how it runs!
@@gingersnapcustoms what turbo is it
@@stevennewman3557 that’s a GM8 with a GM4 cover since the original was cracked.
Thank you for this video!!!
Great video guys love what you are doing so I will drop my 2 cents so please take it for what it is.
1. Going from 21psi of drive pressure to around 18psi is a fairly decent reduction of around 15%. And a drop of around 75-100F in EGTs is definitely significant on a non intercooler diesel. I agree a HX35 would probably see better results but that’s not bad for a $150 drop in wheel.
Second I am willing to bet a GM8 would have even better results with even lower driver pressures especially with the WW2 installed. Once again the HX turbos will probably still be closer to 1:1.
And my last thought is 20psi of drive pressure really isn’t crazy high especially on a diesel.
So I’ve run the GM8 and GM3 with nearly the exact same results. With the old IDI diesels you want to reduce as much heat on the exhaust side of the head as possible and keep your incoming and outgoing pressures as close to the same as possible. All of the points you just made are great. But unfortunately in the case of these engines. 20psi drive pressure for 10psi boost is terrible. Does it work? Absolutely! Would I suggest a wicked wheel? No. I’ll be strapping on a high glow upper intake today and we will take it for a spin. Who knows. Maybe that’s the magic piece missing you help get the numbers closer to 1:1
Ehh yeah the wheel is $150 but a ebay china turbo is about that as well and then the install kit is a bit more but you get way more bang for your buck since then its less drive pressure so better exhaust flow and hx35's easily boost 20psi+ stock form
I plan to use your videos to do some upgrades to my 95 6.5l. I saw in one of the comments you said the WW will be good for towing or hauling. I have a heavy camper. Do you think will make any difference? I am putting the upgrade intake you did and a cold air intake.
If you are towing get an HX40WII from zomebisolutions and a tow tune from Leroy diesel.
@@gingersnapcustoms many thanks🙏
I have a 92 31' safari motor home with same motor. I burnt up the stock motor at 30k miles . put a refurb. Back into it with a new radiator.$$$$$!! Still gets hot on big hills and won't go over 20mph. Any suggestions appreciated!! I know there are better motors but I'm sticking to what the bus came with.
Unfortunately unless it’s a turbo model you are pretty limited. You could do a 2000 water pump. Fan and fan clutch for cooling. PTwiring lift pump and relay harness. As for power/fueling your almost going to want to find a center mount turbo van/bus engine and swap that in with your mechanical injection pump.
From the video it looked like the new wheel didn’t spin freely upon installation? Was there an issue there or was I just seeing things?
just seeing things. It takes a bit of work to get them to fully seat into place once the turbo was assembled it was good to go.
Buen video
Curious to see what the intake does with the ww2. Currently that's my set up on a db4 with quadstar intake .
Upper intake is bolted on as of 9am. I’ll try to drive it on lunch and get a video up for everyone
Video is up and the WW paired with the upper intake makes a good size difference!
Hi again gsc,I'm installing quadstar upper intake on Friday does the ww improve performance enough to feel the difference?
An intercooler would benefit this setup quite a bit
Hi how’s it going, was wondering if there are any good BB turbo setups, to make it loud kinda like the 03 6.0 power strokes, I’ve looks and not sure which will fit and so on
No. But there are some non gated 60mm Holset turbos you can build to make it whistle like that. Or buy. Quadstar tunings Super60 is loud like a 6.0.
6.0’s are loud because they are VNT
You shut of taken the silencer ring off while you had the cover off
There’s no silencer ring in a stock turbo. HX absolutely
Okay this is my second message to you I'm just curious if a 6.5 has the whole on the back of the block that the vacuum pump from a6.2 has? Which also drives the oil pump so I'm just curious if they're the same in that fashion and if they are the same then why in the snot do you have to have a belt driven vacuum pump on the front of the engine if the vacuum pump on the back of a 62 works the same I'm just curious
Yes they are the same in that regard. Because the engine speed sensor goes in that rear port of a 6.5. That’s why we just delete the vac pumps. If I haven’t replied to your other message yet it’s because I’m traveling for business and will get back as soon as possible.
Okay thank you just let me know when you get back take your time I appreciate it I'm not in the big rush
I may be getting a 97 Silverado 6.5 this weekend and would like to do a wicked wheel in it owned said it’s consuming some oil I’m guessing turbo may be sending it into motor but I was wondering from also hearing about it would this one also have a silencer ring for the turbo?
Stock turbos do not have a silencer ring. If the truck is using oil be ready to do a compression check to verify it doesn’t have a dead hole
@@gingersnapcustoms the owner said it uses maybe 1quart a month or so and he would daily it 60-70 miles and said it runs and drives fine but who knows till you actually go and see it
@@jonathanalcox9286 on average I was using a out a half a quart every 3500 miles when I daily drove Casper. So that really isn’t super bad.
@@gingersnapcustoms ok I personally haven’t done much with diesels so I’ve been watching yo ur videos a lot trying to figure out what all to look for ect on it before I get it if it isn’t bad
@@jonathanalcox9286 if it would be helpful for you and others I could do a video on what to check when purchasing a 6.5?
wtF would cause the bolts that hold the flange on the intake side (same bolts he took out here) to look like they pulled out sideways??? has anybody else seen this?? its neve been wrecked (the turbo itself)
Which bolts??
So would U receommend doing this WW just to get spooling faster, i got a van center mount turbo probably a GM6 or GM7.
Personally if you plan to leave the truck stock a WW would be good for towing applications. The van turbos are more efficient which means it may be worth doing on those more so than a pickup.
@@gingersnapcustoms curious as to what makes them more efficient. I've got a couple of 6.5 diesel vans and have not been able to find any turbo upgrades out there, so it looks like I'm stuck with the GM6
@@t0mills vans run a GM7 center mount. There are no upgrades for them so an improved wheel is about all you’ll get
@@gingersnapcustoms ok. I'm guessing you've had a chance to compare the GM6 and the 7?
I've got a GM7 sitting in my shop, I had just assumed the only difference was the spring operated wastegate instead of vacuum operated like the GM6.
@@t0mills it’s like a GM4 VS GM8. Not a major difference other than the wastegate actuator. Center mount turbos on these are a lot more efficient than the side mounts. So that wicked wheel will cause a better improvement overall.
But if you want it to live, cooling upgrade first hands down
Not really. 6.5s benefit more from turbos and upper intake swaps than a thermostat or a fan clutch.
@jamesheater6638 Agreed. I upgraded the water pump, thermostats and a Duramax fan and clutch. Consistently 30° cooler
Mr. Gingersnap and channel.i have a 6.5 im looking to part out.many aftermarket parts.would you know anyone interested?
All depends on what you’ve got!
@@gingersnapcustoms its all there.and runs. Send me your email and ill give you my phone number,then we can video chat and ill show you!!!
@@wanderingways1 hit us up at Gingersnapcustoms21@gmail.com
I will do that
@@gingersnapcustoms check your email and get back at me!
How do I know if I’m db2 ds4
DB2 is all mechanical 92-93. 94-00 is a DS4 which is all electronic controlled.
just shove a wrench or screwdriver in the exhaust side n pull the wheel on with the an impact on the nut ..thats a joke.. :p
Sometimes I’m tempted to try the “wrong way” just to see how bad it really ends
Your turbo needs cleaned out dude.
It wasn’t left on the truck and the CDR had failed. That was after 500 miles of driving post cleaning them out. Didn’t matter since it got an HX40 swap a week and a half later.
@@gingersnapcustoms Gotcha, I wasn't being an asshole, just noticed it wasn't spinning easy breezy. Question, how much difference between diamond precups and the next size down? Have you ported them bigger?
@@bobbyboucher5309 that turbo was interesting. It was a GM8 and a GM4 hybrid. Ran fine. Just was weird.
So pre cups don’t make a lot of difference. You’ll see more improvements from 2500psi pop pressure marine nozzle injectors.
@@gingersnapcustoms I had a 4 in my 98 for a while, all I had at the time to replace the 8 I siezed. The 4 boosted ok but hardly made a sound. Is an hx 40 a noticeable difference from a 35?
@@bobbyboucher5309 so far the HX35 has been the best bolt on and go turbo with minimal lag and good all around performance. The HX40 is a bit large and tends to be a bit more lazy across the board due to the lack of fuel these trucks make.