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@@Jean_1999 if it’s a 94-95 it’s most likely the E brake pedal spring letting it sag. That can be the parking brake light or its distribution block below the master cylinder. No check engine light. Check the ground on the passenger rear intake runner. Also check the one under the driver side of the dash (not easy to find. It’s by the e brake assembly).

@@J-Rod7 what year truck?

@@J-Rod7 if it’s a 92 or 93 it’s most likely the TPS on the side of the injection pump is bad or not adjusted properly. I have a video for that. If it’s a 94-95 or 96-2000 you have a harness issue going from the trans to the ECM. A bad coolant temp sensor or bad ground off the passenger intake runner can also cause transmission issues.

@@gingersnapcustoms Thank you. Truck is a 93. Coolant light is on, it could be that. TPS was apparently replaced by previous owner.

@@J-Rod7 coolant light is just a level pin on the passenger side of the radiator. If that’s unplugged it can’t cause some weird shifts. If they never set the TPS then it will be stuck in limp mode for life. It has to be in just the right spot to work. Most people don’t realize that.

@@nightfall5631 Verlin Martin built this for me. You can piece one together through borg. @Sparkplughunter on Facebook has multiple like this one as well. It’s a 60/68/.88AR open scroll T4 HX40 marmon exhaust housing outlet. You can order that size from most Borg dealers.

@@ethandubois9270 good luck. Hopefully it’s set after you get done! Go check out the video I did for head gasket prep.

@@chancemcqueen7818 this is just a PPE Stange 3 tie rod kit and a new idler and pitman arm. Nothing special. Tire pressure helps absorb some of the stress so I haven’t gone to a center link brace yet. Kill switch is easy too!

@@MichaelWilliams-up2nt fresh cut hay is the best smell come spring time. It’s definitely unique

@@p0weraid there is a photo album on the Facebook page that kind of explains it. I also have a video explaining what’s needed for the S300 swap.

@@bigboy-no2zo not really. Hoodstacks don’t really benefit anyone until 1000+ horse and air needs to rapidly evacuate. On a 6.5 there’s no noticeable improvement.

@@gingersnapcustoms thank you

@@domenicocuore8797 most likely you aren’t getting boost or the lift pump that supplies the injection pump isn’t functional.

@@gingersnapcustoms the lifting pump works very well, I changed all the injectors, I can't eliminate that excessive black smoke, help me thanks

@@domenicocuore8797 put a boost pressure gauge on it and see what boost you make. I think the vacuum pump has failed and you are making no boost.

@@gingersnapcustoms Thanks, I'll let you know as soon as I test the boost pressure

@@devin3156 I’ve already run one and it added less than 15.

@@highdesertink1993 you shouldn’t have a mechanical lift pump on the 6.5 unless it’s in a square body. All 6.5s have electronic lift pumps that feed the engine. 6.2s are mechanical lift pumps like an old SBC.

@@gingersnapcustoms Yes it is a square body, I have a 1986 GMC Serra Classic 3/4ton 4x4. I took the 6.2 out (after a oil return line blew and I lost all the oil and filled my engine with shavings) and put in a rebuilt 6.5 turbo. I have a machinal pump on the lower front passenger side and want to upgrade it but this will be a new upgrade that I have to do my homework on with everything including the process of how to hook it up with duel tanks? The reason I'm asking the question about the plate is because I cant find a fuel pump block-off plate for the 6.5l diesel?

@@highdesertink1993 6.2 and 6.5 are interchangeable. That becomes the turbo train on a 6.5. So if you find a block off for a 6.2 that will work fine. Or use the turbo drain with a cap for the 6.5.

@@gingersnapcustoms Question: I'm also adding a filtered oil catch can and was wondering if it is safe to delete PCV off the valve cover and run the line right to the can? I'm asking you because I have seen and read pro's and cons on it and it seems like google will say one think and truck owners say another??? Thx for any reply you have to offer.

@@highdesertink1993 so it’s better to actually keep the CDR valve on these than to remove them. Road drafts don’t do these much good and a catch can works great with a CDR.

@@rodgergraham357 I normally put them to the back but I’ve never seen anywhere that specifies where they should point. I guess I’ll have to look into that.

@@kadenspurgeon6332 that’s a sign of a bad CDR valve. The turbo is most likely just fine.

@@alexanderwolfe9167 somewhere I have a video on it. I have an album on the Facebook page showing what it is. That came from Quadstar tuning and it was one of their catch can setups we tried out.

@@gingersnapcustoms Thanks! I found your video. Do you think the catch can helps keeping turbo/intake clean? My intake line between turbo and intake is all oily. The outside of the turbo compressor is oily as well.

@@alexanderwolfe9167 I’ve found a clean CDR valve does just as good as the catch can honestly.

@@yojimbos1 Delco doesn’t offer them anymore. Dorman bought them out and so I tend to use those instead of the other off brands. You’ll be able to see the balancer wobble and shake along with notice the materials deteriorated. If engine vibration is that bad I would really check fuel pressure from the lift pump because limited fuel pressure will cause the injection pump to do some funky stuff.

@@gingersnapcustoms Thanks. Swapping that out in the AM. Fuel supply looked weak when I cracked the fuel petcock.

@@heavenlysheephugshuggingfo1505 farm living is the life for us around here!

@@gingersnapcustoms yes sir

@@yojimbos1 stock balancer and pulley can be dorman from whichever auto parts store is best near you.

@@yojimbos1 the vac pump will click or knock when the bearings go bad. The balancer and balancer pulley will have cracks or separation. If the noise is coming back through the air box of the engine and is a hard knock you might have broken a rocker arm retainer clip. Also leaking return lines can cause fuel knock along with low lift pump pressure and clogged fuel filters.

@@yojimbos1 if it started quickly without any pre weirdness I would pull the belt off and check out your vac pump and your harmonic balancer/balancer pulley. Fuel knock on these comes and goes and normally not noticed at idle. The vac pump and balancer you’ll hear at any RPM.

@@yojimbos1 I don’t have a video going injectors yet. I showed it in one of the head gasket videos but I can’t remember which one (too many other things going on). All you need is the injector socket and an install kit. Turbo can stay on. I use the Haynes manual for 6.2/6.5 diesels personally and it’s been great. If you have a bad noise I wouldn’t say fuel knock since it doesn’t really happen in these unless you get an injector locked closed. Try taking a short and posting it on UA-cam.

@@yojimbos1 every comment goes right to my email so I can see them as soon as they get posted. So no worries. See my other reply on your first comment.

@@PNW_K5DIESEL for what you paid for it you’ll have a lot of road ahead of you to improve and fix her up!

@gingersnapcustoms I know I do, but it seems to have a solid base, so it should be worth it. Honestly, most of the cost had to do with how rough the interior is, with a lot of it being that a lot of the rear interior pieces are off. which may come in handy for designing things for storage and whatnot for camping. It's funny because one of my buddies has a k2500 suburban diesel, too, which happens to be a 95 as well. He's setting his up similar as well.

@@PNW_K5DIESEL long ago I built my brother a 96 k2500 6.5 burb and we loved it. It’s definitely one of my all time favorite vehicles to drive and use!

@gingersnapcustoms I can see why. Even with the head gasket issue and me being really careful, she still wanted to scoote right along. Now I'm just going to be setting her up better to help her last and be efficient.

@@codyprice1921 not on a 92-93. On the 94-00 they do require a MAP sensor.

@@SparkplughunterIDI what no one knows is that these trucks are what started it all for me and get me out in the garage more than anything!

40psi of oil pressure at idle (regardless of weight) Is actually not beneficial to the motor. It makes the engine work harder and is wasted HP.

@@masegauntt9085 the issue I was having was that the digital gauge was reading 0 psi at idle and 25 max when cold. I knew something wasn’t right which is why I did the mechanical gauge to verify. It’s definitely making more than it needs which was a genuine surprise since this engine has given me issues more than once over the years.

@@larrydixon-vi7ld PCV tube. It’s free and clear as well as the breather. The oil filter adapter is the issue

@@jeremiahalvarez-dy1bp no. Bolt on the exhaust and go

@@HK-qj4im what year is it? If it’s blowing a lot of smoke it could be from a failed lift pump. Bad wastegate control solenoid. Bad vac pump or wastegate itself.

@@cooperpedie437 they do the job

@@brandonleon795 yep. 44,000 miles and a head cracked before a gasket pushed.

@gingersnapcustoms I just acquired an old dually has 195k miles ip is going out what pump do you recommend

@@gingersnapcustoms I also want to use marine injectors it's a 96

@@brandonleon795 the year will matter where I recommend you get a pump from.

@@brandonleon795 Quadstar tuning has everything you’ll need

@@mr.handsome7689 go check out the Facebook page. I used to have links for everything you’d need.

@@jeffreyvaniderstine9768 hopefully it helps you out!

@@shanegrauer where I’m from you are better off buying a duramax or newer truck for that price. 5-7k would be a good start.

@@frostytrees609 turbo or NA?

@@gingersnapcustoms na

@@frostytrees609 you can bolt on any turbo. A 6.2 and 6.5 are like a 305 and 350. Pretty much anything from a 6.5 goes fine on a 6.2 and they handle it very well.