I fear I worded the VO poorly with respect to the dielectric grease. I meant to say that you can get a good tight connection whilst reducing corrosion, not that the grease itself conducted electricity. Cheers all for flagging that up.
I know its a bit late but instead of a wire brush, I find a small diamond file very useful to remove corrosion from heavily corroded electrical terminals. Heat shrink tubing after applying dielectric grease creates a great seal, but this is mostly my own way of doing it. Great work by the way!
So glad to see you step up to the Deutsch connectors. I have used them exclusively on police car builds in Canada for all the external light and siren connections. We endure 6 months of snow which means lots of Salt and even some Calcium Chloride to melt ice on the roads. Both are very corrosive to metals, especialy copper, but Calcium Chloride is much worse than Salt. It wicks into everything and is more chemically aggressive but I have never seen a problem of corrosion in any Deutsch connector. They are cretainly "one of"- if not - "The best" connectors available today because they seal so well and don't become brittle with time. I have remove hundreds when stripping old police vehicles to go to auction, many of which have been over a dozen years old and they could easily be reused for many years to come.
They are really hard to beat, I have tried tons of different connectors for Motorsport harnesses over the years, and have not found anything better, the only close to as good thing is the molex CMC connectors.
That deutsch connector is a great upgrade. Dielectric grease is not conductive, that's one of the reasons it's used on spark plug wires. Should be fine on those spade connectors and does prevent corrosion. It should be avoided on higher current connections.
Having been the not so prowd owner of a Bukh engine with a sailing yacht built around it, I have been glad quite a few times I had sails. Maybe mine was the poorest produced Bukh in history, but I have never experienced a more unreliable piece of machinery. I renewed every asset (dynamo, starter, fuel pump, cooling pump, filters, wiring, nuts, bolts, gaskets) but even then the Bukh never ceased to cease at crucial moments. I wish you happy holidays and the miracle of a trustworthy Bukh.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals To put it shortly, only the engine block and bearings did not fail. Every addition to that, failed. I once did a trip on a freight barge with a passenger accompanying us. He was a retired Bukh mechanic. He loved the engines. At a certain early morning moment he started summing up the strange defects he encountered. I had to interrupt him when it was lunchtime. I really like your channel. And wish you nothing but great adventures. Having had lots of precarious moments while sailing, I simply would like you to have a plan B when the Bukh fails. The plan B might consist of a liferaft with an Epirb.
Currently looking out at what I'm sure you'd find a balmy 18F/-8C and enjoying a new Alan chapter at the end of my work week. I hope the "festive season" finds you well. I eagerly await seeing Alan finally venture afield.
Woooo best connectors ever. Been using them in Motorsport harnesses for a while, really love the solid pins. But the stamped pins do provide more wire retention strength.
A quick tip. The resistance when installing the wires is from the silicone boot that the wires pass through first (the orange bit). You can pull that out, feed all the wires through it first and then click them into place in the connector body. No risk of nicking a wire with a screwdriver. After all are locked into the connector, push the boot back up and into the body.
1:15 I personally like having my second set of gauges be local and mechanical (oil pressure, coolant temperature). Low priority in the grand scheme of things, but a better use of money than replacing good parts just in case. That way you can see your readings from the helm or by the engine, during an electric failure, or if a sending unit fails.
Thank you for another wonderful video. I do have a couple of questions for you. Are you able to charge the batteries from the engine alternator in addition to wind and solar? Did you keep any of the safety harnesses for the helmsman and crew in case the weather becomes “nautical” while asea?
Hey Alex, It's Possibly a little late in the Day.....But UA-cam guided me to Your Sea Trials Video and I Couldn't help but Think of How You Could Easily Calculate the correct amount of ballast to achieve or possibly improve upon Alan's intended optimum Seakeeping Characteristics as envisaged by the Naval Architects during Alan's design process and proving Sea trials....!!!!!! It's Just a thought.....Although I promise at this point that it's definitely worth at least reading to the end.....But it definitely seems like Alan was Designed to Achieve his Optimum Sea Keeping Potential in a Rescue situation in Heavy Seas with 68 x c.100kg burly Norwegian seamen being rescued on board evenly dispersed around the vessel at about the waterline......which is quite a lot of ballast to make up for before reaching Alan's planned for weight dispersal to reach what the naval architects would have planned for in terms of achieving ideal sea keeping in a rescue situation in rough and challenging seas....and although they would have been seated at about the waterline the c.6.8 tons of burly Norwegian seamen who I assume would have been present in human form or simulated form during her original sea trials, would have done a very great deal to ameliorate the destabilising & pendulum like effects of the high up mass of her rather generous layup of Alan's topsides which would have been laid up to withstand significant impact forces at sea coupled with Alan's somewhat round hull profile....As such more captive ballast in the bilges calculated to roughly simulate the effects of 6.8 tonnes of people sitting at the waterline; which one assumes due to the leverage of being at the furthest point below her centre of gravity would be significantly less than 6.8 tonnes but probably very easily calculated with a brief trawl of the internet as there must be a calculator for naval c.o.g calculations somewhere, and an amount of ballast close to this figure might possibly better approximate what the naval architects might have intended in terms of her intended optimum sea keeping characteristics in her original proofing sea trials and her original design....Sorry if I'm suggesting what you've already though of or I'm a little late in the day....But I thought that it might be an easier way of finding and Achieving Alans optimum Sea Keeping characteristics other than blind trial and error in terms of achieving greater or optimum comfort while at sea....before embarking upon your epic adventure and of achieving almost exactly or better performance at sea than what the naval architects would have envisaged in terms of Alan's optimum sea keeping in a rescue situation while in heavy seas during Alan's original design process.....Also having the correctly calculated and installed the correct amount of (very) captive ballast that far below Alan's centre of gravity would do wonders for both optimising his/her self-righting characteristics and probably ensuring that they're never needed as she should always want to roll back to centre and have maximum damping effect of the initial rolling motion in the first place.....Hope This Helps a little bit even if it helps in optimising her continued development in the future as I've Just noticed the UA-cam time stamp might suggest.....& Very Good Luck With Your continued Expeditions in the future too....!!!!!! Chris :)
Great choice for the connectors. Good thinking in keeping the old connector. As you realised, it's good as reference should any problems occur for any reason later. Not that there should be, of course. Your meticulous and almost paranoid attention to detail undoubtedly comes from experience from your previous adventures. There's nothing like knowing that your life could depend upon some small almost forgetful details to up the paranoia and anal attention to everything you do. Alan has an owner to be proud of. Have a happy Christmas and wonderful New year Alex .
Sorry Alex, I Just found the episode on Ballast installation and can see that You're already on it.....& looking very good already, But it might be worth reading anyway to give you a few ideas for when it comes to doing the calculations for adding weight to the keel if or when it comes to it although by the looks of things it looks like you're already on it with the calculations fore and aft with the water tank fuel and engine and everything too.....!!!!! it's all looking fantastic by the way & loving the whole project with Alan too....!!!!!!
Make sure you give the crimped connections a good tug to make sure the wire is well crimped. Those connector pins are not intended to be crimped like that. A proper set of deutsch crimps squashes the pin from multiple points around its circumference. Take plenty of spare pins with you on your trips!
Great work. While wiring and engine functions are fresh on your mind, consider making even a hand diagram manual (keeping 3 waterproof copies)..esp for when you won't be aboard awaiting pkup
Propellor guard: have you considered how your propellor will manage lumps of sea ice (perhaps ordinary diet), in icy cold water. Lumps of ice may jam, stall the prop, distort the round duct and make further progress difficult. That ring is great when there is an emergency, with people in the the water who need to be rescued, but I don’t think the design is good for making passage when the top 3 feet of the sea are full of bits of broken lumps of ice. What do you think??? Alan in London
This question, and that of the security of the skeg, prop and rudder in general, has plagued me since the start. I'm still not 100% decided on what, if any, action to take.
Well I think that you need to expand that ring having first set up a horizontal grating forward of the propellor so that water , and restricted in size, ice lumps can be batted away by the prop blades without jamming in the ring. Also to deal with shock waves generated by the prop munching through hard material, ( rocks in a kitchen liquidiser)…you need to think about a shock absorber in the prop shaft. Hopefully this will eliminate shaft damage and gearbox damage. There is a lot in this…….what do you think? Alan
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Alex I had a rare hip bone disease starting when I was 2 years old. I applaud you for doing this and the end goal. I wanted to see you safe when this is your home in the midst of an adventure.
i diidn't see it in the vid so i'll mention it you can get blanking pins for the unused terminal holes to keep the german connectors waterproof. they just push in and can be removed if you want to add another wire later.
this isn't a remotely relevant thought to this particular update, but it's reminding me of a thought I had a month or so ago while binging the... Alan...iad. I wonder if you've given any thought to radar? given that much of Alan's operational life is going to be in places with potentially quite severe weather it could be really useful to be able to "see" a fair distance off through driving snow/rain/fog, at night, etc. I had the same thought about sonar/"fish-finder"/depth-finding equipment.
Those look like some serious connectors, I'll have to keep them in mind. I do wonder about the water resistance when not all of the holes at the back are populated with wires.
@Alex Hibbert Originals oh good to know. Would suck if you had an odd number wires lol but these seem like probably the exact kind of European overengineered gear that is gonna last you forever if you do it right.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals fantastic. I've been following Alan since the early pandemic influx of viewers. It's been really cool to see the evolution, especially with the video showing when you purchased it.
My dealings with RGB LEDs look like a walk in the park compared to what you've had to deal with. BTW, there is no standard with RGB lighting,.. kind of like that mystery connector with all black wires,.. and that's why Blue is now Green around my back windows.
Dielectric grease is not a conductive grease. It is the electrical tape of the grease world. Not to be confused with other similar looking greases made for more -intimate- purposes.
If you didn't like the original wire colours, you'd hate most industrial machines. Very often most of the wires are the same colour, usually black. If you're lucky the manufacturer will have put a numbered cable marker on each end. If you're really unlucky the manufacturer sadistically put different numbers on each end (yes, some really do this). Often the only way of figuring out where a wire goes is to rely on the highly sophisticated technique called 'pull on it and see what moves'.
That ten dollars could have been spent on much better projects. Nothing a pack of 3 dollar butt connectors and some tape couldn't have handled. phssst.
![Air filter upgrade for lifeboat engine: more cool air, less grot. Lifeboat Conversion Ep65 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/F57rgXplBCw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Air filter upgrade for lifeboat engine: more cool air, less grot. Lifeboat Conversion Ep65 [4K]](/img/tr.png)
I fear I worded the VO poorly with respect to the dielectric grease. I meant to say that you can get a good tight connection whilst reducing corrosion, not that the grease itself conducted electricity. Cheers all for flagging that up.
I know its a bit late but instead of a wire brush, I find a small diamond file very useful to remove corrosion from heavily corroded electrical terminals. Heat shrink tubing after applying dielectric grease creates a great seal, but this is mostly my own way of doing it. Great work by the way!
Very glitzy.
So glad to see you step up to the Deutsch connectors. I have used them exclusively on police car builds in Canada for all the external light and siren connections. We endure 6 months of snow which means lots of Salt and even some Calcium Chloride to melt ice on the roads. Both are very corrosive to metals, especialy copper, but Calcium Chloride is much worse than Salt. It wicks into everything and is more chemically aggressive but I have never seen a problem of corrosion in any Deutsch connector. They are cretainly "one of"- if not - "The best" connectors available today because they seal so well and don't become brittle with time. I have remove hundreds when stripping old police vehicles to go to auction, many of which have been over a dozen years old and they could easily be reused for many years to come.
They are really hard to beat, I have tried tons of different connectors for Motorsport harnesses over the years, and have not found anything better, the only close to as good thing is the molex CMC connectors.
That deutsch connector is a great upgrade.
Dielectric grease is not conductive, that's one of the reasons it's used on spark plug wires. Should be fine on those spade connectors and does prevent corrosion. It should be avoided on higher current connections.
World Cup Final and an Alan update. The day can’t get any better.
I like the look of those Deutsch connectors. I might have to use them for my projects.
Having been the not so prowd owner of a Bukh engine with a sailing yacht built around it, I have been glad quite a few times I had sails.
Maybe mine was the poorest produced Bukh in history, but I have never experienced a more unreliable piece of machinery.
I renewed every asset (dynamo, starter, fuel pump, cooling pump, filters, wiring, nuts, bolts, gaskets) but even then the Bukh never ceased to cease at crucial moments.
I wish you happy holidays and the miracle of a trustworthy Bukh.
That's a shame to hear. The exception rather than the rule though I think. What parts have failed you?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals
To put it shortly, only the engine block and bearings did not fail. Every addition to that, failed.
I once did a trip on a freight barge with a passenger accompanying us. He was a retired Bukh mechanic. He loved the engines. At a certain early morning moment he started summing up the strange defects he encountered.
I had to interrupt him when it was lunchtime.
I really like your channel. And wish you nothing but great adventures.
Having had lots of precarious moments while sailing, I simply would like you to have a plan B when the Bukh fails.
The plan B might consist of a liferaft with an Epirb.
Currently looking out at what I'm sure you'd find a balmy 18F/-8C and enjoying a new Alan chapter at the end of my work week. I hope the "festive season" finds you well. I eagerly await seeing Alan finally venture afield.
Cheers Bob
Woooo best connectors ever. Been using them in Motorsport harnesses for a while, really love the solid pins. But the stamped pins do provide more wire retention strength.
A quick tip. The resistance when installing the wires is from the silicone boot that the wires pass through first (the orange bit). You can pull that out, feed all the wires through it first and then click them into place in the connector body. No risk of nicking a wire with a screwdriver.
After all are locked into the connector, push the boot back up and into the body.
Good tip - although I've found these silicone wires do it with Anderson connectors too. They really have no stiffness to them.
I appreciate your sense of humor adorning your technical analysis of things. Christmas Cheers
Cheers to you too
1:15 I personally like having my second set of gauges be local and mechanical (oil pressure, coolant temperature). Low priority in the grand scheme of things, but a better use of money than replacing good parts just in case. That way you can see your readings from the helm or by the engine, during an electric failure, or if a sending unit fails.
Deutsch connectors are awesome
Thank you for another wonderful video. I do have a couple of questions for you.
Are you able to charge the batteries from the engine alternator in addition to wind and solar?
Did you keep any of the safety harnesses for the helmsman and crew in case the weather becomes “nautical” while asea?
Great job, your craftsmanship it A+
Well. A B- perhaps.
Hey Alex, It's Possibly a little late in the Day.....But UA-cam guided me to Your Sea Trials Video and I Couldn't help but Think of How You Could Easily Calculate the correct amount of ballast to achieve or possibly improve upon Alan's intended optimum Seakeeping Characteristics as envisaged by the Naval Architects during Alan's design process and proving Sea trials....!!!!!! It's Just a thought.....Although I promise at this point that it's definitely worth at least reading to the end.....But it definitely seems like Alan was Designed to Achieve his Optimum Sea Keeping Potential in a Rescue situation in Heavy Seas with 68 x c.100kg burly Norwegian seamen being rescued on board evenly dispersed around the vessel at about the waterline......which is quite a lot of ballast to make up for before reaching Alan's planned for weight dispersal to reach what the naval architects would have planned for in terms of achieving ideal sea keeping in a rescue situation in rough and challenging seas....and although they would have been seated at about the waterline the c.6.8 tons of burly Norwegian seamen who I assume would have been present in human form or simulated form during her original sea trials, would have done a very great deal to ameliorate the destabilising & pendulum like effects of the high up mass of her rather generous layup of Alan's topsides which would have been laid up to withstand significant impact forces at sea coupled with Alan's somewhat round hull profile....As such more captive ballast in the bilges calculated to roughly simulate the effects of 6.8 tonnes of people sitting at the waterline; which one assumes due to the leverage of being at the furthest point below her centre of gravity would be significantly less than 6.8 tonnes but probably very easily calculated with a brief trawl of the internet as there must be a calculator for naval c.o.g calculations somewhere, and an amount of ballast close to this figure might possibly better approximate what the naval architects might have intended in terms of her intended optimum sea keeping characteristics in her original proofing sea trials and her original design....Sorry if I'm suggesting what you've already though of or I'm a little late in the day....But I thought that it might be an easier way of finding and Achieving Alans optimum Sea Keeping characteristics other than blind trial and error in terms of achieving greater or optimum comfort while at sea....before embarking upon your epic adventure and of achieving almost exactly or better performance at sea than what the naval architects would have envisaged in terms of Alan's optimum sea keeping in a rescue situation while in heavy seas during Alan's original design process.....Also having the correctly calculated and installed the correct amount of (very) captive ballast that far below Alan's centre of gravity would do wonders for both optimising his/her self-righting characteristics and probably ensuring that they're never needed as she should always want to roll back to centre and have maximum damping effect of the initial rolling motion in the first place.....Hope This Helps a little bit even if it helps in optimising her continued development in the future as I've Just noticed the UA-cam time stamp might suggest.....& Very Good Luck With Your continued Expeditions in the future too....!!!!!! Chris :)
Make any of them a audiobook and I will happily buy them.
As long as Alex reads it!
Great choice for the connectors. Good thinking in keeping the old connector. As you realised, it's good as reference should any problems occur for any reason later. Not that there should be, of course. Your meticulous and almost paranoid attention to detail undoubtedly comes from experience from your previous adventures.
There's nothing like knowing that your life could depend upon some small almost forgetful details to up the paranoia and anal attention to everything you do.
Alan has an owner to be proud of.
Have a happy Christmas and wonderful New year Alex .
Cheers Ralph
Thanks again friend.
Sorry Alex, I Just found the episode on Ballast installation and can see that You're already on it.....& looking very good already, But it might be worth reading anyway to give you a few ideas for when it comes to doing the calculations for adding weight to the keel if or when it comes to it although by the looks of things it looks like you're already on it with the calculations fore and aft with the water tank fuel and engine and everything too.....!!!!! it's all looking fantastic by the way & loving the whole project with Alan too....!!!!!!
Did you say... We've had a little snow...it's an ICE change 😂
Oh I say so many things..
Make sure you give the crimped connections a good tug to make sure the wire is well crimped. Those connector pins are not intended to be crimped like that. A proper set of deutsch crimps squashes the pin from multiple points around its circumference. Take plenty of spare pins with you on your trips!
Another tool!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Another expensive tool!
If you strip back the outer insulation of the cable with black conductors you should find that they are individually numbered.
Great work. While wiring and engine functions are fresh on your mind, consider making even a hand diagram manual (keeping 3 waterproof copies)..esp for when you won't be aboard awaiting pkup
Wise thought indeed.
Propellor guard: have you considered how your propellor will manage lumps of sea ice (perhaps ordinary diet), in icy cold water. Lumps of ice may jam, stall the prop, distort the round duct and make further progress difficult. That ring is great when there is an emergency, with people in the the water who need to be rescued, but I don’t think the design is good for making passage when the top 3 feet of the sea are full of bits of broken lumps of ice. What do you think??? Alan in London
This question, and that of the security of the skeg, prop and rudder in general, has plagued me since the start. I'm still not 100% decided on what, if any, action to take.
Well I think that you need to expand that ring having first set up a horizontal grating forward of the propellor so that water , and restricted in size, ice lumps can be batted away by the prop blades without jamming in the ring.
Also to deal with shock waves generated by the prop munching through hard material, ( rocks in a kitchen liquidiser)…you need to think about a shock absorber in the prop shaft. Hopefully this will eliminate shaft damage and gearbox damage. There is a lot in this…….what do you think? Alan
Does the ceiling above the heater need protection? I don't know the characteristics of fibreglass.
GRP can handle over 100degC. I'll use a temp meter, but I'll be extremely surprised if with the lagging, the boat shell heats anywhere near that.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Alex I had a rare hip bone disease starting when I was 2 years old. I applaud you for doing this and the end goal. I wanted to see you safe when this is your home in the midst of an adventure.
Thank you Ron. All my best to you!
And more python. You’ll never go wrong with more python.
Alex please change the thermostat and water pump seal!
i diidn't see it in the vid so i'll mention it you can get blanking pins for the unused terminal holes to keep the german connectors waterproof. they just push in and can be removed if you want to add another wire later.
You certainly can get plugs from Deutsch - yep. Only a few pence.
Dielectric grease is a non-conductive insulator.
this isn't a remotely relevant thought to this particular update, but it's reminding me of a thought I had a month or so ago while binging the... Alan...iad. I wonder if you've given any thought to radar? given that much of Alan's operational life is going to be in places with potentially quite severe weather it could be really useful to be able to "see" a fair distance off through driving snow/rain/fog, at night, etc. I had the same thought about sonar/"fish-finder"/depth-finding equipment.
I did consider a forward facing sonar for ice - TBD.
You say "zeHnith", I say "zeEnith". Let's call the whole thing off. 🤣😂
Those look like some serious connectors, I'll have to keep them in mind. I do wonder about the water resistance when not all of the holes at the back are populated with wires.
Yep they'll not be waterproof now, but sticking a couple of stumps of wire through will seal them.
@Alex Hibbert Originals oh good to know. Would suck if you had an odd number wires lol but these seem like probably the exact kind of European overengineered gear that is gonna last you forever if you do it right.
Apparently you can buy Deutsch plugs for that, although I reckon spare wire will work.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals fantastic. I've been following Alan since the early pandemic influx of viewers. It's been really cool to see the evolution, especially with the video showing when you purchased it.
Cheers! I was here from the start too. I liked the old days - 4 subscribers.
My dealings with RGB LEDs look like a walk in the park compared to what you've had to deal with. BTW, there is no standard with RGB lighting,.. kind of like that mystery connector with all black wires,.. and that's why Blue is now Green around my back windows.
Dielectric grease is not a conductive grease. It is the electrical tape of the grease world. Not to be confused with other similar looking greases made for more -intimate- purposes.
Thanks - I worded it badly on the VO. For clarity for anyone else interested: www.nyelubricants.com/myth-grease-interferes-with-conductivity
so is der corrosion-inhibiting greez that also passively okays electronism..gotta b
why did he add "dielectric" grease, wouldn't that make the connection worse? I thought it was not conductive?
It protects from corrosion, and as long as the physical connection is tight, allows a good flow of current.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals ohhh I see know, Thank you!
✌
Not 1st
If you didn't like the original wire colours, you'd hate most industrial machines. Very often most of the wires are the same colour, usually black. If you're lucky the manufacturer will have put a numbered cable marker on each end. If you're really unlucky the manufacturer sadistically put different numbers on each end (yes, some really do this). Often the only way of figuring out where a wire goes is to rely on the highly sophisticated technique called 'pull on it and see what moves'.
A manifestation of evil.
too short these episodes.
The best complaint.
That ten dollars could have been spent on much better projects. Nothing a pack of 3 dollar butt connectors and some tape couldn't have handled. phssst.
Boo! Alan will counter on to protect life and limp in insane conditions. Can't be too careful. What's the bucks? Toilet paper?
@@rjz1313 money🤣🤣🤣