I use Aptiv (formerly Delphi) 150 and 280 series Metri Pack; mostly because it's been used on GM products for about 20 years and you can score good condition connector bodies and fuse blocks in junkyards for next to nothing. The 280 series stuff accommodates the 2.8mm blade width of mini fuses and 280 type relays. New terminals (and connectors, fuse blocks, etc) are readily available from lots of suppliers. It's available in sealed and un-sealed flavors, (though probably not as high-spec as Deutsch or Molex) and much cheaper.
I work for Boeing and was an aircraft electrician for 11 years. Routing, clamping, terminating and assembling wire harnesses and electrical connectors. I have to say that these are probably the closest, when it comes to the contacts and connector variations and types, to aircraft quality without the astronomical price of the mil spec electrical we use. Nice video.
There are some brands that use these same pins in aluminum high quality housings that I am aware of. They look great and for a serious custom project would be cool but are mostly overkill for everything else. Those may be closer to what you are familiar with.
When I worked at Deutsch, we made connectors for everything. They even said they have connectors on the moon from when they sold connectors to NASA for the lunar lander, I don't know how true this is, but that's what my boss told me when I worked there.
All of the vehicle LED light installations I do I use Deutsch connectors, some fixtures already have the male connectors such as the JW Speakers, Diode Dynamics and Rigid some others, some other brands only have a pig tail on the fixtures and I’ll add the male connectors to those, I do have the expensive TE Connectivity Deutsch crimper and the F AMP crimper for the stamped pin and socket
The only thing wrong with those closed barrel Deutsch pins are they lack any provision for “strain relief”-which as I’m sure your aware is the portion on an open barrel pin where you crimp it to the insulation. Without a proper strain relief when people tug on a wiring harness instead of directly on a connector to seperate them (we have all done it when for whatever you can’t get both hands in and grasp both ends of a connection or whatever), anyway all that force is being exerted on the crimp itself and if tugged hard enough they can pull right out or just shear the smaller gauge wires directly. But yes, otherwise they are good connector. They make a series of connectors (dtm series if I’m not mistaken) that are even made with smaller plastic housings for applications like racing motorcycles where every ounce counts and space is a premium. I also like the Molex mx150 because I work on a lot of Harley’s and they started using them from the oem in 2009 I believe. Downside to molex you need a super thin pick to release the pins from connector if you don’t want to pop out the end terminal retainer lock. I found Mouser has both brands and tons more in stock and at a good price. Better than any automotive supplier I have seen. Mouser is electronics parts giant
I work on garbage trucks. The OEM for the garbage truck portion is mostly Deutsch. I love these connections. Any time I have to replace a damaged connection they get a Deutsch if at all possible. Thanks for the tool suggestions and keep up the great videos.
thanks for the review of this type of connector... i am in the process of rewiring and relocating the fuse panel for my 1981 chevrolet rv; a fuse panel under the dash just isn't convenient for this old guy so it needs to be relocated to and easy accessible location--your video gives me some ideas on how to go about it...
I used to be an injection mold operator at the banning plant, my sister worked on the rubber side, I worked on the plastic side, we made electrical connectors for caterpillar, Volvo, Harley Davidson, the military... You name it they make it. One day I ran thousands of parts that were the connectors for the optic sensor on laser guided missiles😎 cool job working for Deutsch but the pay sucked, I think they were giving me like 11 an hour to run between 6-8 milocron electric servo press machines all day.
Hey Alan, quick question...what trye of bulb socket do you use? The reason I ask is I'm upgrading my squarebody and I really like the GM (Delpi) Metri-pack that are used on ly HHR. At the bulb end there's a bulb socket to connector peice. Based on your serviceability statement I thought it would be great to use something like that for the Deustch system. Can't seem to find and thing similar for the Deustch so I was wondering how you would attack this. That for the great videos and the tech. Cheers.
Hi, I'm converting a few of my early 1994 Harley-Davidson connectors to Deutch. I discovered one of the ports has 2 wires going into it. I would imagine that trying to force 2 wires into one of the Deutch connectors is a "no-no"? In my case would it be best to peel back some of the insulation and soldier the two together and then use one port? Can't seem to find an answer to this. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and advice. I hope my above question made sense.
If people think Deutsche Crimpers are expensive, look at Molex and their kits, they'll set you back even further, with the possibility of having to sell a kidney as well to own one. Cheers for the video bud :-)
The Deutsch branded crimpers are crazy money. I find the Tool Aid ones meet my needs just fine and do a good job. You are right though, trying to cover all of the bases gets pricey quickly.
I use them anywhere I can. When I do an aftermarket harness I skip using their connectors and use these instead. The ones they provide are fine but not usually weather right and a little more difficult to connect and disconnect. So these are superior (and the overall price reflects that).
I’ve got just one small project for these connectors, so I can’t justify the cost of the crimping tool. Anything wrong with soldering the terminal ends, instead of crimping? I have more time than money.... Thanks for the informative videos!
I didn't want to make the video longer by going into it but I usually solder them after crimping personally. So I could see doing that. The open barrel style ones you could probably crimp with any old crimping tools if you get creative about how you do it, then solder them after (they are very easy to solder). The closed barrel I cannot say as I've never tried just soldering them but it would be worth a test run and I would think it has a good chance of working.
Crimping is the way to go. A properly-made crimped connection is more reliable than a soldered one. The problem with soldering is that you have a weak spot where the completely solder-free stranded wire meets the stranding that has solder in it, and thus is stiffer. Any flexing, twisting, or vibration at that spot will eventually fatigue the wire and cause it to fail. Don’t get me wrong: soldering can be used successfully - it’s done for spacecraft after all - but it requires your strain relief to be extremely good. I don’t think Deutsch connectors are designed to provide that level of strain relief. Soldering is also far more time-consuming. Given that you can buy an adequate quality indent crimper for closed-barrel Deutsch terminals for around $30 (look for iwiss brand, for example), I’d do that. You can get adjustable indent crimpers too, allowing you to handle multiple terminal sizes. (For frequent use I’d get separate ones, but for once-in-a-while hobby use, the adjustable is fine.) Also, check out local classified ads and such: I’ve managed to collect a decent set of top-quality crimp tools that way, some used, some brand new. (A used top-quality tool is decidedly preferable to a new low-quality tool.)
how do you handle it when you have a trunk mounted battery and an engine bay device that requires larger wire size than the deutsch connector has available. i have a maven performance bulkhead with 4 12awg and several 16awg pins. i have an efi and ignition system that runs 10-12awg if the battery is in the engine bay. it'll require 8-10 to hit the trunk most likely. do you just use the open end splices, bring 2-3 smaller sizes in to use on the bulkhead and 1 larger size on the other end for the device?
There are two options I have for those purposes. 1) There are Deutsch connectors featuring larger cable options. On the 55 Chevy I recently did one of the bulkheads I used had a single 4GA cable with some 12GA cables too. So I used the 4GA to feed in battery power, mounted an insulated junction and then powered up anything needing good battery power off of that junction. 2) I will use a Battery Bulkead connector to pass battery power into the interior of a car/truck and then also use that as a Junction point to supply battery power to things. Here is what I am referring to: amzn.to/3cE3Mtj Check out WireCare.com they have a Deutsch configurator to help you get the connectors you need for your applciation: www.wirecare.com/manufacturers/deutsch/deutsch-assembler
@@HotRodHippie i have a power/ground bulkhead already passing through firewall to engine bay for engine ground and starter/alternator power. holley's instructions say to run direct to battery for pos/gnd. so 4 10awg's is what's needed. rather not add more bulkheads as i'm trying to keep it clean. idea was to use the 4 12's and splice in some 16's to bring the wire size up to 10awg. just haven't seen a video of it being done. i know it effectively works though. thanks for the quick response.
@@callofgeorge I combine wires once in a while to increase load capacity, but not commonly. Here is a link to a calculator that can help you determine you "Effective Gauge" of combined wires: www.wirebarn.com/Combined-Wire-Gauge-Calculator_ep_42.html According to that you would need a 12Ga and a 14Ga combined to equal 10Ga. I know Holley, MSD, and some others want you to go Battery direct with your power connections but personally I usually consider the bulkhead fitting (with adequate cable feeding it) to be effectively battery direct. You could use Deutsch Connector bulkhead. Namely the HDP20 18-8 connector. It has 8, size 12 pins in it. Size 12 is good for 12-14Ga. So you could do your wire split with that. Run your 4, 10Ga wires to the bulkhead connector, split to 4 12Ga and 4 14(or12)Ga and then splice back together on the opposite side of the bulkhead connection. The 18-8 connector is the one I use for headlight harnesses on classic cars. Here is a link to it on WireCare: tinyurl.com/tcevpjs
I've used the JR Ready kits plenty (mostly). I find that the pins are the biggest different. The contacts from Deutsch or TE Connectivity are far and away better. Connectors themselves I haven't found too big of a variation. I usually order the budget kits & quality terminals separately. Though a few times I've had incompatibilities between the two.
I mean they are water tight when assembled properly and have a positive lock that keeps them engaged when seated fully, so I'd say they are pretty perfect for the use. The only thing better would be a screw tight connection but then that has the potential to vibrate loose.
@@HotRodHippie thanks for reply, yes , seems a good product. The problem Is that I'm new on this field and this month I saw hundred different connectors.. AMPSEAL,Delphi , Deutsch ecc ecc.. and I don't understand the quality difference and what could be "right"
Most are IP68 rated. Which means 1.5M deep for up to 30 minutes. In a marine application that WILL be submerged from time to time, you need to be certain the wire is the proper size. As the wire seals against the rubber sealing gasket in most Deutsch connectors. And I would pack the connector with dielectric grease anywhere I could to further prevent water intrusion. That said, I'd say they are a pretty good choice for that sort of application. The only thing I am unfamiliar with is how the plastic of the housing would hold up to salt water over time.
It doesn’t matter. They are just terminals, you wire it as your needs arise. I often go back and forth as to which way I go depending on how connectors fit through things. Such as small holes in fender wells it is easier to fit the “male” connector through. Etc
all quality connector families have a learning curve and tooling costs , so if you want high quality wiring you got bite the bullet, it is hard to stick with one as car mfg's use many different brands just for one car!
I have multiple terminal depinning tools because there are so many connectors out there. It can get pretty frustrating, so I try to keep my projects as straight forward as I can.
I do use wire loom. The video clips of the 55 Chevy I showed feature plenty of TechFlex wire loom. I don't use wire loom under dashes or at the Connectors on ECM wiring as those are the most likely places to need servicing. As such not having loom makes it easier to ID the wires and since they are not visible or rubbing against anything those areas don't need loom. If you mean on the wires I crimped in this video, it's just a demonstration... If you looked at my instagram or some of my other videos like this one: ua-cam.com/video/85Ps99xxX6I/v-deo.html You would see I use TechFlex loom regularly among other types.
Hmmmmmm ... I wonder if one could use the IWISS ratchet hex crimp tool for the closed barrel version. This is the tool that is generally used for servo ferule type connectors. Those appear to have somewhat thinner wall. ua-cam.com/video/QQEr8s0jzCk/v-deo.html
I really cannot say, nor could I see myself investing in them to test it out unfortunately. I wouldn't be surprised if they did work, I know some companies sell similar crimp tools for Deutsch connectors but you just never know until you try.
3:44 - I showed you don’t need any special tools to depin them. I own some but never use them, just a pair of needle nose & pick / pocket screwdriver gets the job done on most of them. This was not a “commercial” and did include the information you said it didn’t, did you finish the video before commenting?
I've been using them for years and never broken a pin. The terminals are much tougher than most of the other connectors I've used. Also with how easy they are to disassemble repairs are pretty straight forward. I wonder if the ones you've had trouble with weren't knock offs. I've gotten some cheap ones that look similar but just aren't quite right and those are the only ones I've had trouble with.
To back up HRH comment...I had a wiring harness get ripped out of a machine at work. It didnt pull the pins out of the socket or break the wire at all, it actually broke the lock instead. I was really surprised how strong the connection at the pins are.
Do you use Deutsch Connectors or some other type of connector for your wiring jobs?
I work on CAT equipment. ALL of their connectors are Deutsch.
I use Aptiv (formerly Delphi) 150 and 280 series Metri Pack; mostly because it's been used on GM products for about 20 years and you can score good condition connector bodies and fuse blocks in junkyards for next to nothing. The 280 series stuff accommodates the 2.8mm blade width of mini fuses and 280 type relays. New terminals (and connectors, fuse blocks, etc) are readily available from lots of suppliers. It's available in sealed and un-sealed flavors, (though probably not as high-spec as Deutsch or Molex) and much cheaper.
I work for Boeing and was an aircraft electrician for 11 years. Routing, clamping, terminating and assembling wire harnesses and electrical connectors. I have to say that these are probably the closest, when it comes to the contacts and connector variations and types, to aircraft quality without the astronomical price of the mil spec electrical we use. Nice video.
There are some brands that use these same pins in aluminum high quality housings that I am aware of. They look great and for a serious custom project would be cool but are mostly overkill for everything else. Those may be closer to what you are familiar with.
When I worked at Deutsch, we made connectors for everything. They even said they have connectors on the moon from when they sold connectors to NASA for the lunar lander, I don't know how true this is, but that's what my boss told me when I worked there.
Not going to use deutsch if it Boeing standard😂😂
All of the vehicle LED light installations I do I use Deutsch connectors, some fixtures already have the male connectors such as the JW Speakers, Diode Dynamics and Rigid some others, some other brands only have a pig tail on the fixtures and I’ll add the male connectors to those, I do have the expensive TE Connectivity Deutsch crimper and the F AMP crimper for the stamped pin and socket
The only thing wrong with those closed barrel Deutsch pins are they lack any provision for “strain relief”-which as I’m sure your aware is the portion on an open barrel pin where you crimp it to the insulation. Without a proper strain relief when people tug on a wiring harness instead of directly on a connector to seperate them (we have all done it when for whatever you can’t get both hands in and grasp both ends of a connection or whatever), anyway all that force is being exerted on the crimp itself and if tugged hard enough they can pull right out or just shear the smaller gauge wires directly. But yes, otherwise they are good connector. They make a series of connectors (dtm series if I’m not mistaken) that are even made with smaller plastic housings for applications like racing motorcycles where every ounce counts and space is a premium.
I also like the Molex mx150 because I work on a lot of Harley’s and they started using them from the oem in 2009 I believe. Downside to molex you need a super thin pick to release the pins from connector if you don’t want to pop out the end terminal retainer lock.
I found Mouser has both brands and tons more in stock and at a good price. Better than any automotive supplier I have seen. Mouser is electronics parts giant
I work on garbage trucks. The OEM for the garbage truck portion is mostly Deutsch. I love these connections. Any time I have to replace a damaged connection they get a Deutsch if at all possible. Thanks for the tool suggestions and keep up the great videos.
A buddy I went to Wyotech with builds fire trucks, they are really common on those as well. They just work, can't argue with that. 👍👍
That was informative and helpful, appreciate the way you've explained these connectors
Perfect timing - this was next up on your playlist (working my way through them) and my Deutsch connectors arrived today. Great video!
Glad to be of help!
thanks for the review of this type of connector... i am in the process of rewiring and relocating the fuse panel for my 1981 chevrolet rv; a fuse panel under the dash just isn't convenient for this old guy so it needs to be relocated to and easy accessible location--your video gives me some ideas on how to go about it...
Thank you! This will help a lot in rewiring my kei truck!
I used to be an injection mold operator at the banning plant, my sister worked on the rubber side, I worked on the plastic side, we made electrical connectors for caterpillar, Volvo, Harley Davidson, the military... You name it they make it. One day I ran thousands of parts that were the connectors for the optic sensor on laser guided missiles😎 cool job working for Deutsch but the pay sucked, I think they were giving me like 11 an hour to run between 6-8 milocron electric servo press machines all day.
Sucks it didn't pay but sounds like an interesting job at least. Sad that things go that way so often.
Well produced video and great presentation! Thanks.
Thank you, I appreciate the notice. 👍🏻
Very informative video and well-produced. Thanks for sharing.
Always well presented and explained. Cheers!
Very well presented Alan.
Thank you very much, it is greatly appreciated.
Another well produced video! And yes I am already subscribed!
They work well,we use then on construction equipment all the time.some of the pin connectors are even gold plated.
The round bulk head connectors/Canon plugs also can be made of aluminum instead of plastic,much more durable.
Great video! Super Informative....thank you for adding the links as well!
Always trying to make information easier to find. Thanks 👍
My 64 F100 thanks you!
Hey Alan, quick question...what trye of bulb socket do you use? The reason I ask is I'm upgrading my squarebody and I really like the GM (Delpi) Metri-pack that are used on ly HHR. At the bulb end there's a bulb socket to connector peice. Based on your serviceability statement I thought it would be great to use something like that for the Deustch system. Can't seem to find and thing similar for the Deustch so I was wondering how you would attack this. That for the great videos and the tech. Cheers.
Hi, I'm converting a few of my early 1994 Harley-Davidson connectors to Deutch. I discovered one of the ports has 2 wires going into it. I would imagine that trying to force 2 wires into one of the Deutch connectors is a "no-no"? In my case would it be best to peel back some of the insulation and soldier the two together and then use one port? Can't seem to find an answer to this. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and advice. I hope my above question made sense.
Great video 👍Thank You for sharing.
Thank you very much
they make a hdt4800 that can crimp all the solids
Are this connectors good for ABS module relocation? I need to extend the wire harness.
Can you connect 4 pin to 2 pin connector? I have 2 red wires connect to one red and similarly 2 black to one black wire.
How to connect 3 sets of 3 wires (small gauge 12vdc wires) with these? ACC, GROUND and +12v. Thanks
I use them everytime on Yellow equipment Caterpillar and komatsu
Is there a general rule for plug and connectors, which one is used on the component (fuel pump, etc. )?
If people think Deutsche Crimpers are expensive, look at Molex and their kits, they'll set you back even further, with the possibility of having to sell a kidney as well to own one. Cheers for the video bud :-)
The Deutsch branded crimpers are crazy money. I find the Tool Aid ones meet my needs just fine and do a good job. You are right though, trying to cover all of the bases gets pricey quickly.
Great info I'm looking these up do you use these with commercial wire harness or mostly when you create from scratch?
I use them anywhere I can. When I do an aftermarket harness I skip using their connectors and use these instead. The ones they provide are fine but not usually weather right and a little more difficult to connect and disconnect. So these are superior (and the overall price reflects that).
I’ve got just one small project for these connectors, so I can’t justify the cost of the crimping tool. Anything wrong with soldering the terminal ends, instead of crimping? I have more time than money....
Thanks for the informative videos!
I didn't want to make the video longer by going into it but I usually solder them after crimping personally. So I could see doing that. The open barrel style ones you could probably crimp with any old crimping tools if you get creative about how you do it, then solder them after (they are very easy to solder). The closed barrel I cannot say as I've never tried just soldering them but it would be worth a test run and I would think it has a good chance of working.
i heard you can solder the pins to the wire but could i replace the crimping with soldering to connect these up cheaply?
Crimping is the way to go. A properly-made crimped connection is more reliable than a soldered one. The problem with soldering is that you have a weak spot where the completely solder-free stranded wire meets the stranding that has solder in it, and thus is stiffer. Any flexing, twisting, or vibration at that spot will eventually fatigue the wire and cause it to fail.
Don’t get me wrong: soldering can be used successfully - it’s done for spacecraft after all - but it requires your strain relief to be extremely good. I don’t think Deutsch connectors are designed to provide that level of strain relief. Soldering is also far more time-consuming.
Given that you can buy an adequate quality indent crimper for closed-barrel Deutsch terminals for around $30 (look for iwiss brand, for example), I’d do that. You can get adjustable indent crimpers too, allowing you to handle multiple terminal sizes. (For frequent use I’d get separate ones, but for once-in-a-while hobby use, the adjustable is fine.)
Also, check out local classified ads and such: I’ve managed to collect a decent set of top-quality crimp tools that way, some used, some brand new. (A used top-quality tool is decidedly preferable to a new low-quality tool.)
Do you have an email? I'd love to show you how helpful you've been with my career.
how do you handle it when you have a trunk mounted battery and an engine bay device that requires larger wire size than the deutsch connector has available. i have a maven performance bulkhead with 4 12awg and several 16awg pins. i have an efi and ignition system that runs 10-12awg if the battery is in the engine bay. it'll require 8-10 to hit the trunk most likely. do you just use the open end splices, bring 2-3 smaller sizes in to use on the bulkhead and 1 larger size on the other end for the device?
There are two options I have for those purposes.
1) There are Deutsch connectors featuring larger cable options. On the 55 Chevy I recently did one of the bulkheads I used had a single 4GA cable with some 12GA cables too. So I used the 4GA to feed in battery power, mounted an insulated junction and then powered up anything needing good battery power off of that junction.
2) I will use a Battery Bulkead connector to pass battery power into the interior of a car/truck and then also use that as a Junction point to supply battery power to things. Here is what I am referring to: amzn.to/3cE3Mtj
Check out WireCare.com they have a Deutsch configurator to help you get the connectors you need for your applciation: www.wirecare.com/manufacturers/deutsch/deutsch-assembler
@@HotRodHippie i have a power/ground bulkhead already passing through firewall to engine bay for engine ground and starter/alternator power. holley's instructions say to run direct to battery for pos/gnd. so 4 10awg's is what's needed. rather not add more bulkheads as i'm trying to keep it clean. idea was to use the 4 12's and splice in some 16's to bring the wire size up to 10awg. just haven't seen a video of it being done. i know it effectively works though. thanks for the quick response.
@@callofgeorge I combine wires once in a while to increase load capacity, but not commonly. Here is a link to a calculator that can help you determine you "Effective Gauge" of combined wires: www.wirebarn.com/Combined-Wire-Gauge-Calculator_ep_42.html
According to that you would need a 12Ga and a 14Ga combined to equal 10Ga.
I know Holley, MSD, and some others want you to go Battery direct with your power connections but personally I usually consider the bulkhead fitting (with adequate cable feeding it) to be effectively battery direct.
You could use Deutsch Connector bulkhead. Namely the HDP20 18-8 connector. It has 8, size 12 pins in it. Size 12 is good for 12-14Ga. So you could do your wire split with that. Run your 4, 10Ga wires to the bulkhead connector, split to 4 12Ga and 4 14(or12)Ga and then splice back together on the opposite side of the bulkhead connection.
The 18-8 connector is the one I use for headlight harnesses on classic cars.
Here is a link to it on WireCare: tinyurl.com/tcevpjs
If you get the appropriate Deutsch (or DMC etc) crimping tool, then you only need one tool, not three.
My question is regarding what I gather are knock off Deutsch connectors .. is the quality so much superior vs say the JR Ready kits ?
I've used the JR Ready kits plenty (mostly). I find that the pins are the biggest different. The contacts from Deutsch or TE Connectivity are far and away better. Connectors themselves I haven't found too big of a variation. I usually order the budget kits & quality terminals separately. Though a few times I've had incompatibilities between the two.
@@HotRodHippie thanks for the reply
Are they cool for rally application?
I mean they are water tight when assembled properly and have a positive lock that keeps them engaged when seated fully, so I'd say they are pretty perfect for the use. The only thing better would be a screw tight connection but then that has the potential to vibrate loose.
@@HotRodHippie thanks for reply, yes , seems a good product. The problem Is that I'm new on this field and this month I saw hundred different connectors.. AMPSEAL,Delphi , Deutsch ecc ecc.. and I don't understand the quality difference and what could be "right"
Can you use Deutsch connectors for marine applications? Specifically, for boat trailers exposed to salt water.
Most are IP68 rated. Which means 1.5M deep for up to 30 minutes.
In a marine application that WILL be submerged from time to time, you need to be certain the wire is the proper size. As the wire seals against the rubber sealing gasket in most Deutsch connectors. And I would pack the connector with dielectric grease anywhere I could to further prevent water intrusion.
That said, I'd say they are a pretty good choice for that sort of application. The only thing I am unfamiliar with is how the plastic of the housing would hold up to salt water over time.
Nobody is talking about direction, does power come from the male or female plug?
It doesn’t matter. They are just terminals, you wire it as your needs arise. I often go back and forth as to which way I go depending on how connectors fit through things. Such as small holes in fender wells it is easier to fit the “male” connector through. Etc
Great information, thanks!
Thanks appreciate the info
all quality connector families have a learning curve and tooling costs , so if you want high quality wiring you got bite the bullet, it is hard to stick with one as car mfg's use many different brands just for one car!
I have multiple terminal depinning tools because there are so many connectors out there. It can get pretty frustrating, so I try to keep my projects as straight forward as I can.
THANKS BRO
good video n info!, cheers!
well done thank you
Thanks
I am supplier for Deutsch terminal extraction tool, do you interest them?
Where's all the links
In the video description. There are 8 of them there. Some may be out of date at this point but it should give you a good basis to work from.
I can see the strain on your face when you're talking about the open barrel pins 😅
Those metal terminal releasing tools for the bulkhead are not that good, i use the flexible plastic they work pretty good
Why are you not using wire loom???
I do use wire loom. The video clips of the 55 Chevy I showed feature plenty of TechFlex wire loom. I don't use wire loom under dashes or at the Connectors on ECM wiring as those are the most likely places to need servicing. As such not having loom makes it easier to ID the wires and since they are not visible or rubbing against anything those areas don't need loom.
If you mean on the wires I crimped in this video, it's just a demonstration...
If you looked at my instagram or some of my other videos like this one: ua-cam.com/video/85Ps99xxX6I/v-deo.html You would see I use TechFlex loom regularly among other types.
Hmmmmmm ... I wonder if one could use the IWISS ratchet hex crimp tool for the closed barrel version. This is the tool that is generally used for servo ferule type connectors. Those appear to have somewhat thinner wall. ua-cam.com/video/QQEr8s0jzCk/v-deo.html
I really cannot say, nor could I see myself investing in them to test it out unfortunately. I wouldn't be surprised if they did work, I know some companies sell similar crimp tools for Deutsch connectors but you just never know until you try.
These commercials suck. Leaving out the unpinning process and the required tools is unacceptable.
3:44 - I showed you don’t need any special tools to depin them. I own some but never use them, just a pair of needle nose & pick / pocket screwdriver gets the job done on most of them. This was not a “commercial” and did include the information you said it didn’t, did you finish the video before commenting?
i've used them, they are awful especially if you break a pin
I've been using them for years and never broken a pin. The terminals are much tougher than most of the other connectors I've used. Also with how easy they are to disassemble repairs are pretty straight forward.
I wonder if the ones you've had trouble with weren't knock offs. I've gotten some cheap ones that look similar but just aren't quite right and those are the only ones I've had trouble with.
To back up HRH comment...I had a wiring harness get ripped out of a machine at work. It didnt pull the pins out of the socket or break the wire at all, it actually broke the lock instead. I was really surprised how strong the connection at the pins are.