please also to encourage Emily to make 3Dp with Long Y-axis - to cure all current problems with 'tall' printing (see my comment below if you can find) .. and when you make more metal 3Dp rockets, u secretly love Tomato? :D
Watching you put that printer on the concrete so aggressively physically hurt my soul 😭 but seriously, all of your videos are so funny and entertaining and you are an inspiration to me as a teenage girl who loves engineering
@@EmilyTheEngineer oh my god 😅 I assumed it was one you dont use anymore but I still couldn't stop myself from internally cringing at how hard you put it down lol
Once you jack up a car, you put jack stands or solid wood blocks or something else under it before going under, so I don't see how this is unsafe. Oh, there was a jack stand too.. 😂
The specs for PLA vs PC show some values better for PLA and some worse, and the ones which are worse aren't all that much worse. PLA is an all-around great material, with its weak points being that it melts at a relatively low temperature and when it fails it really fails. If you want/need something tough the materials to use are nylon if you want it hard or TPU if you want it soft. A good trick for making strong 3d printed parts is to embed metal bars (which you can get cheap) inside a print in strategic places.
Given the terrible mechanical efficiency of the jack when it at the start of its lift, I was cringing all the way, and very impressed at the lack of shrapnal. Now I am wondering how a 3D printed conventional screw jack (vertical thread) would cope. Brilliant video!
This is one of the things I love about 3D printing: Using $200 of filament and 20+ hours of printing to make something that I can buy for $50 and a 10 minute trip to the store.
Fantastic work! A longer cranking handle will make it easier to lift the car higher, especially as more weight is added. For a higher lift without wooden blocks, longer lengths on the middle blocks will do the trick, love the fact you added gears on both ends, fantastic fix!
Cool project! You can optimize the orientation of the screw when printing by printing it on it's side on the build plate rather than standing up (you can add flatness to either side of the screw). By standing it up like that, the load on the jack is going to try to pull the layers apart, which contributed to the first failure. The adhesion between the layers will never be as strong as a continuous piece of filament, unless maybe you anneal the parts.
Ahh yes, I keep a 3D printer in the back of my car for just such an emergency. It only takes a few dozen hours to print a jack so I can change my tire.
I have a car which weighs half as much as yours. This will allow me to save even more weight by throwing out the "big&heavy" factory jack replacing it with a plastic one. :D Honestly knowing how much time it takes to print these parts is crazy and you just go with the flow with the video which is cool.
Just a little tip infill quite fast gives diminishing Returns. Try more walls/perimeters and top and bottom layer. Also add a 0.4 mm tube inside the model at Connection Point so there are solid walls printed on the inside of that part to connect them so they don't snap so easily. If you wanna make an unreasonable strong part 45 infill 6 walls and top and bottom layers with alternating wall direction with cubic infill. Most importantly get good layer adhesion. Also increase line thickness/with to 0.6 (don't need a 0.6 nozzle if you stay under 0.24 layer height). Also helps to burn though having to Mutch filament and to little microplastics everywhere.
Yeah no both are important if you want the strongest part possible. Why stop at 45? Diminishing returns sure but every bit helps here. I made some very questionable and borderline illegal explosive stuff with my 3D printer, 100% infill always.
Ive heard you on the Lateral podcast a couple times, but this is my first time actually watching one fo your videos. I've gotta say I'm hooked XD that was amazing
That was pretty impressive honestly haha! I printed an oil filter cap wrench last summer when I was in a pinch because the metal one I had didn't fit the car I was working on and surprisingly it held up quite well. I wouldn't ever try to jack a vehicle up though lmao!
i agree this is firmly filed as 'i'm surprised it can technically arguably hold a car' rather than a properly functional solution, but i do wonder how well a large 3d printed puck or block would fare as a non adjustable jack stand.
just as an idea: the straight lines etc are mostly from older manufacturing processes that had an easy time with straight objects. you could process your car jack with a strength optimization algorithm. it would look more organic light (think about bird bones which have to be rigid and extremely light or trees, which have to be optimally balanced, as they cannot afford to be too heavy). these forms are hard to manufacture with traditional methods, but as you know, 3D printing does not have some of the limitation that other methods have. and think about the infill type, depending on the type, they are sometimes just load bearing into one direction. gyroid should be the way to go.
Try adding a ratchet on the scissor jack so you don't have to remove the handle every time! I bet it will speed it up a lot! And use a ratchet mechanism from a torque wrench so you can lift up and down, if you actually do it, that would make my whole week better!
good stuff! i feel like you could make a larger one with multiple steps to the scissor mechanism and be able to lift the car using the jack alone instead of having to lift part of it with the wood. curious to see if you will continue this project
If you were on an island and relying on printing rather than a conventional shop in order to produced needed tools, you would design them based on the material properties. The plastic jack would not *look like* the conventional metal jack. It would have different proportions and appear oversized in general. E.g. the screw might be much much larger and have a fine pitch, and there might be other design features to take the load off the screw threads, like a ratchet.
Once upon a time, an email answering guy was asked "Do you use your powers for good or for awesome?" I can clearly see that you use your powers for awesome 😎 Love your work. Rock rock on! 💪
Excuse me but can we use the seaweed in a 3d printer so that plastic isn’t killing us? I had a thought of it just now since i saw the seaweed startup that makes them like plastic pellets to be put into the machines in factories that make plastic or in this case make a plastic like seaweed.
Some suggestions for your consideration: Shape the head of the lead screw similar to that of a flange nut. Place a thrust needle roller bearing between the flanged face of the lead screw head and the non-threaded block. Make sure the type of lubricant used does not effect the integrity of the plastic.
Instead of using 100 percent infill, just set the amount of bottom layers to be more than the total amount of layers. That way it just continues to print flat solid layers. It is not only stronger than 100 percent infill, it also prints a lot faster.
Yeah, a lot of your strenth issues could have been -solved- improved with changing the orientation of the print. But it is still really cool to see how strong some redily available printing materials can be. Then again, what do I know. It took me three tries to spell check "the" in the first sentance.
I had the actual metal jack that came with my car fail spectacularly one day. Got it jacked up the angle of the car shifted as it was raised the jack twisted and the nut popped off the screw and dropped it to the ground instantly. I had never seen a screw jack fail like that. Never get under a car supported only by any jack.
With all the creaking, I was guessing there wasn't grease, but then you said "grease is gross", so I guess that's just the noisy nature of plastic under pressure. I'm glad you did this so I don't have to!
that would be perfect for riding lawnmowers to lift the deck up more to get to the blades. One thing I would change is to make the bolt head a stand socket size so that you could use a ratchet and socket to crank it up and down.
I think the main "easy" improvement to the design would be to replace the spur gears with herringbone type gears, which could distribute the load on the gear teeth a little better
Is it hard to use a 3D printer? I want to 3D print half a armor suit to cosplay as a character. But never used a 3D printer and didn't know if it would be better then eva foam.
anyone can do it for sure. I made iron man suits with eva foam ~9 years ago. Printing is definitely heavier, less mobile, but assuming you sand well, it gives a much more armor-y look. just preference!
It occurs to me that you could optimize the tool path for the particular needs of the parts. You'd have to write slicer code. Is there an open source one you could start with?
3D printing metal is not cheating Emily! Is the way of the future... Is the way of the future... Is the way of the future
Diy 3d printed metal video from you when ? 😂😂 Love your videos Integza
Jet powered 3d printer
Ok Howard
please also to encourage Emily to make 3Dp with Long Y-axis - to cure all current problems with 'tall' printing (see my comment below if you can find)
.. and when you make more metal 3Dp rockets, u secretly love Tomato? :D
is it the way of the future or is it the future of the future
Watching you put that printer on the concrete so aggressively physically hurt my soul 😭
but seriously, all of your videos are so funny and entertaining and you are an inspiration to me as a teenage girl who loves engineering
must be nice to be given a printer by a company, so you can just dash it onto your floor.
kinda douchey, but, hey, comedy i guess
@@djjc9782to be fair, what she does with her 3d printer, whether its bought with her own money or given to her by a company, is her own business
lol you mean an old printer I bought a long time ago that no longer works and I just use for parts now? be jumping to conclusions so quick lmaoooo
@@EmilyTheEngineer oh my god 😅 I assumed it was one you dont use anymore but I still couldn't stop myself from internally cringing at how hard you put it down lol
It looks like an Ender so nothing of value would have been lost.
Something completely helpful, yet useless because it's dangerous as hell. I approve of this video 100%. Well done Emily.
Once you jack up a car, you put jack stands or solid wood blocks or something else under it before going under, so I don't see how this is unsafe.
Oh, there was a jack stand too.. 😂
@@daliasprints9798you forgot the part where it's going up.....
it would be cool to see how fast someone can change a tire before it breaks.
DUDE. Let's you and I collab on printing that in some CF PEEK. YES.
The specs for PLA vs PC show some values better for PLA and some worse, and the ones which are worse aren't all that much worse. PLA is an all-around great material, with its weak points being that it melts at a relatively low temperature and when it fails it really fails. If you want/need something tough the materials to use are nylon if you want it hard or TPU if you want it soft. A good trick for making strong 3d printed parts is to embed metal bars (which you can get cheap) inside a print in strategic places.
Given the terrible mechanical efficiency of the jack when it at the start of its lift, I was cringing all the way, and very impressed at the lack of shrapnal.
Now I am wondering how a 3D printed conventional screw jack (vertical thread) would cope.
Brilliant video!
I am sure I am not the only person wondering if a 3d printed jackstand is as safe as a harbor freight jack stand.....
😅😂
safe is a strong word
don’t tempt me. now I wanna see which fails first hahaha
@@EmilyTheEngineer they recalled the really bad ones they may be hard to find
Depends on the brand. The Daytons are solid enough. Project farm did a jackstand comparison.
This is one of the things I love about 3D printing: Using $200 of filament and 20+ hours of printing to make something that I can buy for $50 and a 10 minute trip to the store.
🤕
Impressive stuff! I was expecting at least one attempt to shatter into confetti.
Fantastic work! A longer cranking handle will make it easier to lift the car higher, especially as more weight is added. For a higher lift without wooden blocks, longer lengths on the middle blocks will do the trick, love the fact you added gears on both ends, fantastic fix!
Cool project! You can optimize the orientation of the screw when printing by printing it on it's side on the build plate rather than standing up (you can add flatness to either side of the screw). By standing it up like that, the load on the jack is going to try to pull the layers apart, which contributed to the first failure. The adhesion between the layers will never be as strong as a continuous piece of filament, unless maybe you anneal the parts.
A little grease on the screw would have helped also. I bet the factory jack had grease.
Emilys green screen is impeccible. 👌
I really loved the way you show your content Emily. Keep it up, cause you're doing great!
Also great topics on the channel! 😁
The best parts of the video, asside from the super cool design and eng; it is the genuine excitement with success. keep going!!
Ahh yes, I keep a 3D printer in the back of my car for just such an emergency. It only takes a few dozen hours to print a jack so I can change my tire.
Yeah same, but if it were me, I'd just print a new car.
@@UltimateP That's a very big-brain move. No wonder I didn't think of it!
Just download a car then print it
5:19 Never seen someone calibrate the z-offset of a car.
It’s been a hot minute since I’ve seen a new vid. So happy more are coming in.❤
I have a car which weighs half as much as yours. This will allow me to save even more weight by throwing out the "big&heavy" factory jack replacing it with a plastic one. :D
Honestly knowing how much time it takes to print these parts is crazy and you just go with the flow with the video which is cool.
Just a little tip infill quite fast gives diminishing Returns. Try more walls/perimeters and top and bottom layer. Also add a 0.4 mm tube inside the model at Connection Point so there are solid walls printed on the inside of that part to connect them so they don't snap so easily. If you wanna make an unreasonable strong part 45 infill 6 walls and top and bottom layers with alternating wall direction with cubic infill. Most importantly get good layer adhesion. Also increase line thickness/with to 0.6 (don't need a 0.6 nozzle if you stay under 0.24 layer height). Also helps to burn though having to Mutch filament and to little microplastics everywhere.
Yeah no both are important if you want the strongest part possible. Why stop at 45? Diminishing returns sure but every bit helps here. I made some very questionable and borderline illegal explosive stuff with my 3D printer, 100% infill always.
I just discovered this channel, and it’s the funniest shit, I’ve been binging all the videos
Ive heard you on the Lateral podcast a couple times, but this is my first time actually watching one fo your videos. I've gotta say I'm hooked XD that was amazing
"I am an engineer"
Lmao😂
3D Printed Scissor Jack vs Real?
Which one better?
Maybe, I should make the comparison, who is up? 😅
Nice video Emily!
That was pretty impressive honestly haha! I printed an oil filter cap wrench last summer when I was in a pinch because the metal one I had didn't fit the car I was working on and surprisingly it held up quite well. I wouldn't ever try to jack a vehicle up though lmao!
i agree this is firmly filed as 'i'm surprised it can technically arguably hold a car' rather than a properly functional solution, but i do wonder how well a large 3d printed puck or block would fare as a non adjustable jack stand.
just as an idea: the straight lines etc are mostly from older manufacturing processes that had an easy time with straight objects. you could process your car jack with a strength optimization algorithm. it would look more organic light (think about bird bones which have to be rigid and extremely light or trees, which have to be optimally balanced, as they cannot afford to be too heavy). these forms are hard to manufacture with traditional methods, but as you know, 3D printing does not have some of the limitation that other methods have.
and think about the infill type, depending on the type, they are sometimes just load bearing into one direction. gyroid should be the way to go.
Destructive test analysis is the way to go!
love me some onshape, you can have teams as well. Waiting for CAM studio.
This video really lifted my spirits. That car totally got jacked!
Did you add lube to the screw and other parts that rub? I'm a big fan of Super Lube.
Try adding a ratchet on the scissor jack so you don't have to remove the handle every time! I bet it will speed it up a lot! And use a ratchet mechanism from a torque wrench so you can lift up and down, if you actually do it, that would make my whole week better!
You knoooooow, jacks and jack stands are made with solid infill
Every good engineer ALWAYS wears their Safety Crocs... I know I do as well... :D Subbed!
4:37 You didn't hear unsettling sounds, you were hearing settling sounds.
I love your shirt & dryness
It is great the ideas you come up with. Great vlog thanks for sharing.
“You were stranded, I’m not” 😂 6:13
As a fellow material scientist thank you for the cold hard numbers! 😄
Exactly the kind of "F**k around and find out" video I love seeing!
Great video - cool idea and fun too watch!
I didn't know it was possible to pack so many anxiety inducing moments into such a short video.
What filament is best for a car jack to use on a REALLY hot day.
Great video, crazy but never the less entertaining
good stuff! i feel like you could make a larger one with multiple steps to the scissor mechanism and be able to lift the car using the jack alone instead of having to lift part of it with the wood. curious to see if you will continue this project
Not sure how i havent come across your channel before, but this was great! looking forward to more
Go for more walls, less infill. Like 6 or 7 walls, 50% infill.
Loving your channel!!!😊
If you were on an island and relying on printing rather than a conventional shop in order to produced needed tools, you would design them based on the material properties. The plastic jack would not *look like* the conventional metal jack. It would have different proportions and appear oversized in general. E.g. the screw might be much much larger and have a fine pitch, and there might be other design features to take the load off the screw threads, like a ratchet.
Once upon a time, an email answering guy was asked "Do you use your powers for good or for awesome?"
I can clearly see that you use your powers for awesome 😎
Love your work. Rock rock on! 💪
There was a really nice safety instruction at the beginning. Recommended!! 😂
I'm glad YT recommended you, and I like that you show your failures.
oh shit linus better watch out cause emily's segue game is on fire🔥
This video was delightful
That intro straight out won you a subscription
Very cool project to gain a meaningful understanding of PLA strength. Now, how about that grow tent back there? 😁
I have needed this
Lmao y'all are nerds and some pretty fun ones. Please keep on keeping on!
Seeing you sip that paper under the tire made me think of setting your zero by hand on a mill.
Excellent! I love this kind of stuff.
*does it at home*: "don't do this at home"
That's my kind of humor 😂
Excuse me but can we use the seaweed in a 3d printer so that plastic isn’t killing us? I had a thought of it just now since i saw the seaweed startup that makes them like plastic pellets to be put into the machines in factories that make plastic or in this case make a plastic like seaweed.
Love the intro u rock!
Emily "should I have a shield in front of me?"
me "you only though of that now"
Emily slid that piece of paper under the tire like she was levelling it. Gotta level all 4 corners.
Some suggestions for your consideration: Shape the head of the lead screw similar to that of a flange nut. Place a thrust needle roller bearing between the flanged face of the lead screw head and the non-threaded block. Make sure the type of lubricant used does not effect the integrity of the plastic.
“This was done in a safe environment… We wore safety goggles.” Proceeds to show face without safety goggle lmao. Keep up the good content!
Is there any way that I can get this model to print it myself ?
print a metal version how strong is ur design ?
Unlike the lawnmower's tire, the car's tire actually can swing up and down, so that explains the need for the extra wood.
Instead of using 100 percent infill, just set the amount of bottom layers to be more than the total amount of layers. That way it just continues to print flat solid layers. It is not only stronger than 100 percent infill, it also prints a lot faster.
03:44 did anyone else just join in doing Owen Wilson Weooooeewwww, wwooohhhhww, weeooooohw whhoeeooooeoeeewwww?
what did that ender 3, striped of its electronics, power supply, screen and possibly more, do to you for you to drop it on the ground like that?
I think your ability to make traditionally metal automotive parts out of plastic would give you a bright career in BMW.
Or VW
Yeah, a lot of your strenth issues could have been -solved- improved with changing the orientation of the print. But it is still really cool to see how strong some redily available printing materials can be.
Then again, what do I know. It took me three tries to spell check "the" in the first sentance.
I had the actual metal jack that came with my car fail spectacularly one day. Got it jacked up the angle of the car shifted as it was raised the jack twisted and the nut popped off the screw and dropped it to the ground instantly. I had never seen a screw jack fail like that. Never get under a car supported only by any jack.
With all the creaking, I was guessing there wasn't grease, but then you said "grease is gross", so I guess that's just the noisy nature of plastic under pressure. I'm glad you did this so I don't have to!
That's a lot of plastic. What do you with the stuff you don't want anymore? Is it easy to recycle?
we were watching the video because you put it out there. :D
Can we just appreciate Dan for refusing to let her pony tail us, even in the middle of a hot summer day. Rock on!
ok, I dont know how I have not seen you channel before. But I was not expecting the comment about your husband being a material science engineer 😂
Congrats on reaching 50k subscribers!!! 😅
WHOA, I'm impressed!
Did you lubricate the threads and gears? I hear creaking that sounds like dry threads
yeah i did! no matter how much I kept adding it still creaked like that unfortunately
Can I use Google sketch up for my Ender3 ?
“I’m prepared for this to explode in my face” - Emily 2023
that would be perfect for riding lawnmowers to lift the deck up more to get to the blades. One thing I would change is to make the bolt head a stand socket size so that you could use a ratchet and socket to crank it up and down.
I think the main "easy" improvement to the design would be to replace the spur gears with herringbone type gears, which could distribute the load on the gear teeth a little better
❤ that shield 😂
That printer drop at the start physically hurt me
Leaving the real scissor jack fully extended under the car while it was held up by 3D printed stands was brave lol
so what did you done when you bed level your honda?
3D Printed jackstands...safer than Harbor Frieght jackstands
3D printing itself, is not engineering, but executing dumbly is engineering!....gone wrong🤣❤🤞
i love how Bambu took over ASAP
Is it hard to use a 3D printer? I want to 3D print half a armor suit to cosplay as a character. But never used a 3D printer and didn't know if it would be better then eva foam.
anyone can do it for sure. I made iron man suits with eva foam ~9 years ago. Printing is definitely heavier, less mobile, but assuming you sand well, it gives a much more armor-y look. just preference!
@@EmilyTheEngineer I have nerve damage on my right side. So I didn't know which to go for
I’m not sure if you do this later in the video because I haven’t finished it yet, but you should definitely add a ratchet mechanism to that handle
I would have made an adapter to just use the battery powered impact wrench. I'm too lazy to crank that thing up by hand...
Aren't ratchets inherently weaker? Yk since they need the ratchet mechanism?
I know for a fact my printer will NOT be able to print this in such a way that it would be able to hold its own weight lol
A FELLOW ONSHAPE USER YAY ❤
Bro is leveling the tires💀
That jack stand is just like the Harbor Freight tools jack stands!
It occurs to me that you could optimize the tool path for the particular needs of the parts. You'd have to write slicer code. Is there an open source one you could start with?