I don't do attics anymore because I'm past 35 years old... period... nope to insulation and nope to hot, fiberglass in the skin at night... nope .. in my 20s I insulated professionally, one of my hoodies my ex washed with her panties... 🤣🤣🤣 I'm at work getting cussed because someone gots itchy and scratchy going on in their pants... yeah... no Attics anymore, I paid my dues 🤣🤣🤣
Nice that you decided to delete my comment. Do a video where you're replacing an EXISTING old can recessed light with a flush mount LED light (and I'm not talking about retrofitting an LED light bulb).
I've always heard that if you're using a non-contact voltage tester, you should make sure and touch it to something that you know is hot (like an outlet in another room that is on) to make sure that the tester is working properly before you trust it to tell you if the wires you're going to touch are actually turned off. Always good to be doubly-safe when working with potentially live wiring.
i worked with a old electrician that would touch the wire to find out if it was hot 🔥 or ground out the power wire to find the circuit breaker it was on 😂
Non-contact testers are also known as "death sticks" because they're notoriously unreliable. Any time you have to touch wire with your fingers, the circuit should be tested metal on metal first. Most DIYers aren't investing in $$$$ professional testers and shouldn't be led to believe that the $10 sticks they buy at the hardware store are going to tell them for certain when a circuit isn't energized.
Hey Paul, just for your future jobs, whenever I rough in wiring for any switch box, 1,2,3,4,5 gang or more, I always bring the feed wires (hot) in the bottom of the box, and if there is going to be a tap out of that box to feed another switch box or receptacle downstream , I will also bring that outgoing hot in the bottom of the box. That way I always know the cables coming into the box on the bottom are both "hots", and they always get connected together. It makes wiring multiple devices a little simpler.
A lot of people don't realize how hot an attic can be. I'm in South Florida and I'm in attics at least 4-5 times a week. Highest I've ever measured was 137°. It was too hot to even crawl around with bare hands. Danger level heat.
Our company does a lot of poultry house work. We have to go in the attics of the houses quite a bit. With just the tin roof between you and the sun, it gets scorching. One time on of the guys took out a heat gun. It was 162 degrees at the access hole. The wood trusses were so hot, you couldnt touch them. Even the wire we had to pull down the ceiling got so hot by the time we got where we had to put it, you could almost not hold on to it.
Dallas here. My first summer with a remodeling crew I was the "attic rat" running wiring and ducts. I am now able to laugh at the desperation I felt at the end (and hottest part) of the day when all I needed to do was insulate that one last duct and I'd be free! And the only thing holding me up was peeling the back off the stupid foil tape with trembling fingers while trying to see what I was doing through the waterfall of sweat running across my eyes. Like I said, I am NOW able to laugh about it. I lost twenty pounds that summer.
Something to consider, that I didn't see in the comments and they didn't mention in the video, is if you're putting recessed lighting in a lower ceiling, like a basement, you'll need to take into consideration the beam angle coming out of the lights themselves. If you have them too far apart you'll feel like you're walking in and out of light and get an awkward feeling because you'll be walking in and out of the light beam.
You should try the Wago 221 connectors, they make everything clean and neat. I always wrap the screws so I can't touch the screws if pulling the switch out.
Man you guys are really giving me confidence to do some work on my new home. It's funny how it seems like Jordan is the one who had the idea for this channel, but Dad is such a natural in front of the camera and a great teacher. I like how you asked him to clarify the wiring stuff, just to give folks a chance to boost their confidence even further.
I did all the recess lighting in all my downstairs rooms without attic access. You just need to get 3/4 ,54inch flex bit. I can't belive he said he cut someone's floor open to do it. They literally sell these bits at all the major hardware stores just for this reason. They even have a hole on the shaft to pull the wire through.
Note: Always re-check with tester AFTER turning off breaker. For one, the breaker at times fails to open when you turn it off. I have always trained apprentices to re-check the box just in case there is a second circuit present in the same box. Simply move the tester around at the rear of the box.. not just what is easy to touch. A second circuit is more common than you realize.
Or you might be working on outlets that your electronics trained father has previously re-wired and crossed two circuits! DAMHIK! LOL I always check now.
Yep. Always recheck. Also I was taught to touch the hots first with the back of your hand after you were absolutely sure they were off. If you somehow made a mistake, your reflexes will cause you to pull away from the live wires.
@@lacuzon39000 I guess if you are well insulated from a ground path then you can get away with it. I'm just glad I've never gotten anything across my heart.
Even though you are using a plastic box, its a good idea to tape the hot terminals on the switch because the ground wires are long and exposed. When you fold them into the box and then "shove" the devices in, its hard to know if the ground wires get moved around. I have been using the Halo recessed lighting for a while now, but never saw that kit before. LOVE IT! Thanks for showing it off Another great video StudPack!
I’ve been an electrician since 1966 and I’m still amazed at all the technology we have today. So many jobs are so much simpler than when I was an apprentice.
Have y'all ever tried Wago lever nuts vs the wire nuts? I watch 80% or so of the uploads (I miss them sometimes) and hadn't seen those yet. They work great, and I'd even be tempted to send you some. For DIYers, it makes wiring so much faster than wire nuts, and doesn't damage the wire.
I was just about to ask Studpack about using Wagos. I'm from Germany so I don't know about American Building Code, but Wagos made a huge difference to me in electrical installation. Though I don't use the lever ones but the slim ones where you just stick your wire in. I know it makes hardly any difference regarding conductivity yet wire nuts have a sliiiight advantage over Wagos, but it's never a fire hazard or anything like that. I love that with Wagos you can easily remove single wires without dismanteling the whole setup.
These "wafer lights" have really changed the game when it comes to lighting. I mounted mine in ceiling tiles which I was able to mount within 2.5 inches below the ductwork. Otherwise, I would have literally needed to design my ductwork around where can lights would normally go. My concern is if one of these lights goes ca'put in 5 years, will I be able to find an identical replacement, or will I be replacing all of my wafer lights? I like how the old Edison base fixtures installed 75 years ago can STILL appear and function fine with a simple bulb replacement.
I love that he emphasizes *selectable color temperature.* That's crucial when you can't just change a lightbulb to go from daylight white to warm white, or vice versa. Without that selectability, you'd have to rip out and replace _the entire fixture_ just to change the color of the light.
Good job on the video. I personally am not a fan of those lights. Companies occasionally produce these "innovative" products that are a bit outside the norm, then years from now when components fail or break you can't find replacement parts. In this case one specific driver controls all 4 lights, up to 8. Driver fails there are no lights. You also have those plastic clips that attach to the LV wire, it reminds me of the round discs used for LV wire on landscape lighting, and those discs are usually the first thing to fail. Granted they are exposed to different elements and circumstances than they would be in an attic. It is a DIY friendly solution, but it has the same drawbacks as traditional can lights-you have to work around any obstruction-joists, ductwork, blocking, bridging, plumbing, etc. That makes it defeat the purpose of being DIY friendly. At the end of the day flat wafers that sit below the joist are going to thrive compared to this product. You can fish either wire from hole to hole and avoid attic work all together, especially when the return is already up in the ceiling-just get it close to the first light location and use poles or tape to hop between them all. Just a sparky's 2 cents. I wouldn't install this product in my home nor would I recommend them to a customer. Halo is a good brand but this seems short term and gimmicky and likely to be phased out. All the downsides of can light install and one link makes or breaks all the lights. Imagine if an office room had all their 4 foot T8 fluorescent lights controlled by 1 ballast.
I was thinking the same thing...outdoor light connection failures...oh boy. I finally found the solution...those 3M grease filled connector chingaderas and never looked back. I wonder how long those connection points are gonna last in the heat of that attic let alone the heat of my attic in Phoenix?
I bought the 8-light bundle for our kitchen renno and will be returning these because the lights are failing to pair on the app. Lights are on, they’re getting power from the supply and the only online troubleshooting doc Halo has on them only tell you to make sure power is on and that you’re within range of Bluetooth (yes to both). Anyway, just wanted to point out that the power supply isn’t a “hub” for this system, it is basically just a transformer to feed 10v downstream to the lights you place on the wire. Each light has its own Bluetooth transmitter that needs to pair to the app. I was able to get the Halo dimmers recognized, but none of the lights in the kit worked. Experience tells me this isn’t a solid product 👎🏻
I've watched about 4 of your videos while trying to finish my basement. You are now my favorite show. You are a true teacher and explain key concepts clearly and conscisely. Keep up the good work!
I always get excited to see a new Stud Pack video waiting for me! I appreciate you fellers so much for your in-depth explanations. Also, thank you for explaining the clamping plate on the switch. I feel that so many people don’t even realize what that plate is for. Keep up the great work!
You’ve a new fan here! Encyclopedic level of information, yet distilled to a form that any layperson with the will to learn can tackle almost any home-related project! Appreciate the fast tempo of your speech, which combined with the depth of knowledge, makes for videos that you have to pause or rewind! Keep ‘em coming, and here’s to a million subs! 👍👍👍👍👍
Nowadays I like to use 4 inch new construction or remolding can for incandescent where it is available because they got the extra safety heat switch built in , just in case something goes wrong with the led light , there is plenty of led recessed modules that will fit in the 4 inch can with the socket plug in for 120 V then you won’t have to depend on finding the proper replacement in a few years when Halo discontinued this model , plus every brand with this type of light on separate driver or driver built in the can have their own secondary DC voltage set up and you can only use the proper oem replacement part .
Again, you are the master of the tricks, every time you use one of the little tricks, I recall how my pop would use them. Like turning the hammer sideways to get to the tight space over the staple. You guys always do fantastic work and its like 20 minutes of reminiscing for me. Anyone who wants to learn...and learn it right....this is the right channel to watch.
I’ve put in wafer lights in upstairs ceilings w/o attic access, but only when I didn’t need to run a new switch leg - e.g. I was connecting to and existing ceiling light/fan leg. I simply used fiberglass fishing rods that I can use to run the Romex from light to light and finally to the switch leg.
Studpack Wednesday!! Simpli the best day of the week so far!! I installed a simplisafe system earlier this year for a client for the first time.. Very easy to do & following the directions was easy.. Thank you guys & Keep up the good work!
Just installed two, along with other lighting, in my company's office. One worked for about 10 seconds, the other not at all. Checked all connections and voltage. All ok
just installed one of these, it's fantastic how easy it makes installing a bunch of LED lights in a room, but something important i think everyone should know is to avoid the 0-10v dimmable version. you'll have to do so much extra AND run extra wires to make it dimmable
I’m having this problem too. how do you update to dimmable? I have a feeling I’ll need to run 0-10v lines but to what and where. Manufacturer has left us hanging.
After having retired a full master bathroom remodel I have found the Wago connectors to be SO much better than wire nuts. Working with the past twisted wires in a remodel is a serious pain. Wago connectors are so much cleaner and really eases future changes. Nice video thanks for making them.
7:00 Dust Bowl. When we had a whole-house HVAC installed in our house, the company brought along a little old man who was somebody’s grandpa. His entire job was to hold a box up to the ceiling where they were cutting the holes for the vents. We didn’t have any dust in the house because grandpa did his job.
I was taught to always wrap the wire nuts on any connections in a way that it holds the wire nut on and keeps it tight. Wire nuts can loosen over time and heat up. I’m an industrial electrician but it holds true in residential too.
I just looked at these tonight, pretty cool. A little more expensive at $140 for 4 pack, but you wiring is all included, and it takes alot of work out of landing multiple junction boxes for each individual light you want to install. Thanks for posting this project!
I am not an electrician by trade, but my uncle was and would take me on the job with him when we visited him for the summer in Michigan. He taught me that all power cables come into the box on the upper left and wires going to your device goes out the upper right. I do not know if that is a standard, but all the homes that I have owned have been like that and when I rewired the garage that is how I did it. If it is a box I am not sure of, I always test the circuit and mark it for me later or the next guy that has to go into the box.
I installed these recents in my man cave and could not be happier. Tied them to the existing box unused in the center. Thanks for first making me aware of such product… also thanks so much for your videos… really enjoy your stuff.
Great video stud pack, very informative and great tips, I love all your videos. I've definitely learned a ton of tips and tricks through out your videos. One quick tip as a electrician myself never break off the tabs on a dimmer always just bend them back, its the same width whether bent back or broke off. Keep the great videos coming!
FYI- I just bought a similar saw from the orange store made by Klein. Worked pretty well and was around $30. Good enough for the 4 holes I had to do for my lights. Wish I had watched this video first, I made all of the right marks where the joists were but there were so many and I was in such a rush that, you guessed it, I drilled one hole right where my joist was. Made a big X with a circle on all the other holes after that. Went from a simple job to extra work patching drywall in just a few seconds. Some times I amaze myself with how smart and I am and other times I amaze myself with my stupidity.
Another great video. As a homeowner I’m not liking the choose of the Fan Controller sticking out like that just asking to be broken by the kids. Very helpful to know when we upgrade our Bedroom fans
Master Electrician in Florida. Done tons of hi hats without getting in the attic but we are usually dealing with 1 floor structures. A fishtape and patience does the job.
I installed these low voltage lights in my living room per the instructional video. HOWEVER, if you want them to dim, in addition to the 120 volt wiring you need to run low voltage wiring to the transformer AND to a dimmer switch that is compatible.
It's about time someone came up with this linkable low voltage system. It's a no brainer. Problem is that it's 5x as expensive. They use less components to make it but charge the consumer more. I'll wait for the price to come down.
I like to make a tag out of the romex sleeve and use a sharpie to write power. I then slip it over the hot wire coming into the box. In the future if I need to get into the box I know which one has the source power. I use the romex strippers (Klein K1412) to cut off the romex sleeve rather than using a knife to open it. It saves me from cutting into the wire accidentally. I also get a clean cut and a sleeve to use as a tag.
This is a well informed video . Thank you for showing that 90 percent of the time we have to work in a attic and it does get incredibly hot up their … I prefer 120 volt compared to low voltage ,the higher voltage last longer .
This was the video I was hoping you would make. I've been looking to install wafer lights in my bedroom to replace the center ceiling fan light and while there are many DIY vids on this subject I wanted to see how the Stud Pack crew tackled the install. Great job!
I have a set of 6 led lights similar to those installed in my kitchen. When we run our dishwasher, the lights flicker with the pulses of the dishwasher motor. I also have led under cabinet lights that are perfectly fine when the dishwasher runs. Any ideas?
Really love that you explain everything more than once. I’m an amateur electrician and I didn’t quite understand how you wired up the 2 gang box in the beginning, but when you explained it at the end, I understood. Still don’t understand the purpose of a switch leg. Also, I didn’t know you were from Louisiana. That’s awesome. As a fellow Louisianaian, I love watching your channel.
In a nut shell, the term “switch leg” is a commonly accepted nickname for the wire that runs from the control device (ie the switch, dimmer, timer, motion sensor, photocell, etc) up to the light fixture. A switch leg is always controlled by a device, and never has constant power. Hope that helps clarify !! Cheers.
I did it! All thanks to this video. Just installed in my bedroom and it came out great. I’m in Miami and I waited until this cold snap to go into my attic. Any other day I’d melt in there.
I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel and we wanted to do recessed lights. I did them in our kitchen and was not looking forward to mounting four in the bathroom and being up in the attic dripping with sweat. I'm planning on using one romex line for all four lights so it was going to be a junction box party up there. Oh man am I glad I came across your video. These are a game changer!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to help us all out. Liked and subbed!!
Always awesome to see fans wired separately from fan lights. Nice to be able to have the fan running during the day without the lights on, or at night without the lights on, all without having to mess with pull chains.
Yeah, except when the fan comes with a remote that could control the light (& now can’t). Or even worse, when you want to use the Bond Bridge to control the fan and light using Alexa/Google
@@TENTHIRTYONE Is the "Bond Bridge" a manufacturer specific accessory? You could alternatively replace both fan and light wall switches with smart switches to control them individually (on/off/dim).
@Slim_Savage Pretty sure it was originally wired for just a ceiling light and someone (before me) swapped it for a fan-light without changing the wiring or switch.
Nice video, working with sweaty hands in an attic that has fiberglass blow insulation is not fun. I have done similar work, in my days and from time to time, and here in AZ you can imagine the heat in attics or crawl spaces, even in the spring and fall. From a quick installation, the low voltage lights you are using are great, but I prefer hard wire direct to each light with Romex, for a more service free and solid installation and this is a lot easier than working with BMX or metal pipe as per code in some east coast states. My experience with low voltage lighting, as with landscaping lights have not been favorable, at some point there is chance for loss of continuity due to press fit contact loosening over time, but this also is a matter of how well the press fit connector was designed and installed.
Those things look slick. I'm skeptical about the 22 years. LED premature heat death is fairly common at least in some fixtures. I wonder how they'll hold up in a hot Louisiana attic.
Not only that but if you read the rating it is like 3 hours a day for 22 years or something. I can tell you my kitchen lights are on for more than 3 hours a day.
Nice job as always. Used that same hole saw a few weeks ago while upgrading a church auditorium (from the 70's hanging globes to the 5/8" wafer LEDs). Was so nice not to have to clean up all the flying dust because of the hole saw cover... and the new 5/8" lights fit underneath all the joists. LEDs were a cleaner look, much brighter output, a lot less heat, and use much less power. Had a few places we needed to widen existing holes... problem was there was no place for the center bit to index. So... I got a light fixture mounting bracket, drilled out the center hole to fit my hole saw pilot bit, and then put drywall screws thru it up into the ceiling drywall (inside the diameter of my cutting legs). Allowed me to index the pilot bit anywhere and widen existing (4") holes to larger (6") holes. (Have also used a piece of 1"x4" cut into a 4" circle, but that was a bit more work and this way I was able to go exactly where I wanted.)
Check live and neutral also not just live and ground , there are many houses out there wired with “ romex “ connected to old wiring without actual ground .
You and your son do an excellent job with your video's / sounds like you raised him right / have a excellent father son relationship...enjoy watching your video's keep up the excellent work and take care...
I think these are the “easiest” light I would attempt to install. Plus the step by step that you give through the video helps big time! I would like to see a video with the 3way switch.
3ways are easy. the live wire on one goes to the common, the wire going to the light goes to the common on the other . the other 2 wires are travelers.
Ssssoooo, before Katrina, we had an attic crawlspace in a hip roof style home like you were in. We installed an oven temperature gauge to see how hot it was during the summer. It would start when opening the hatch it would be 125 degrees and then zoom to 150 degrees after turning on the florescence light. Now, after Katrina, we went to a gable roof with a standing space to house the water heater and HVAC unit. WE have a house length vent on both sides of the house with a roof ridge vent to escape as much air as it could. The hottest it gets now is about 5 to 7 degrees hotter than the outside. Best thing we could have ever done!!! Great video as I am going to try to get similar lights for out bathroom. Great video!!! BTW, we are located on Mississippi Gulf Coast about 1/2 mile from the beach.
that box could have been made up so much better. it ended up pretty messy. first, when you make up the grounds, put enough pigtails to have one per device. then do the same when you make up the hots. one pigtail per device. then you're not making pigtails and adding more wire nuts to the same connection. then cut your hot pigtails square and your switch legs at an angle, and it makes it easy to tell which is which. and also, when putting a CL dimmer alongside a switch, the heat sink tabs don't need to be broken off. there's exactly enough room. but I'm not going to be buying low voltage can kits. the low wattage of LEDs may not be as hard on low voltage as halogens, but I've still had to rebuild way too much low voltage hardware because it cooked itself to death. remember, 12V runs 10 times the amperage as 120V for the same wattage.
I am a SimpliSafe user. They don’t have a way to turn the alarm on and off with a cell phone. Their product only supports sending emails to the person who registered the account. It’s ok if you don’t mind that limitation
Normally I don't give the ads a second thought. But on a quality channel like Stud Pack, I'm happy to do what I can to support the quality content that Paul and Jordan are producing. Yes, I'm clicking and, yes, I'm buying 👍
Super helpful video! Picked up the Halo low-voltage 4-pack and am just about done with the install. Only problem I've run into is with the dimmer switch. It's wired up correctly and the on/off switch will turn the lights on and off but when I use the slider to dim, nothing happens. The lights remain at full brightness. Faulty dimmer switch? It's a Leviton DSL06 that's supposed to work with LEDs, CFLs and halogens.
Just make sure you think long and hard about what might be on the other side of that joist. You don't want to hit Romex stapled to the side of the joist, or worse, a water pipe.
Secret hack. LED wafer lights that have a separate transformer, you can cut the cable that comes with it and extend it with door bell wire. This way you can put all the transformers next to the gang box in the ceiling and just run the thin wire to the lights. Just like the system mentioned here. The lights I used the voltage was too low to shock you and the current too low to heat the wire and start a fire.
You should get an old weather thermometer that shows temp and RH cuz it’s not only hot in that Louisiana attic it’s humid too which I’m sure only adds to the misery. When you said “this whole room is one circuit” did you mean the lights and the outlets both? I strongly believe in separating outlet circuits from fan/light circuits where possible. I understand in a remodel that’s not usually a possibility but when you can there are good reasons separate them. Last, I love that you’re giving the homeowners a proper panel schedule and an electrical plan. I also like to do this for the next guy.
Why don't you do the wiring down on the floor then stick it into the attic through one of the recessed light holes? Then just go up there to mount the box. That's what I do most of the time. I also manage to fish the wire from below most of the time with fiberglass rods.
These guys’ videos have been so helpful in my remodeling projects! From this video, I got myself that same hole saw and I also tried these lights. I ended up returning the lights because the lights failed to pair to the app (I should have known a Bluetooth only option for smart features was too good to be true). I had also bought the Halo 3-way switches meant to be used with these and those were the only things that paired 😂
Problem with led fixtures when they fail and they will.The entire unit is trash..landfill.. they need to be repaired or are just gonna fill landfills like solar does..
I have LED lights just like these that were installed maybe 2 years ago. One of them has stopped working. What are your best tips for a non-electrician to diagnose the issue? Are the LED's themselves replaceable or might I need to replace the whole light assembly? Thanks for any input.
Good JOb...I plan to install those ""pancake lights" in my kitchen now after walk me trough you give me confidence i can do it by myself. thank you a God blessing you and your family.
I just watched this video. I learned something new. I want to share a device wiring connection idea. Instead of putting the wires straight into the device clamp, try making a modified half loop (like you would use under the screw), but bend it 180 degrees on the long end after the loop like an "h", then clamp it. As always, an informative good video.
My brother installed some of these lights in his kitchen a couple months ago. He didn’t go in his attic for the installation process he installed the lights all from in his kitchen. He installed about 6 lights total.
Electrician here. We install those lights all the time without getting in the attic as long as there is an existing light. Fish sticks can usually get the job done 🙂
Paul - Here's a tip that I use. I drill a pilot hole before using the hole saw. It's easy to locate the hole saw bit in the pilot hole and keeps the hole saw from accidently wandering.if the hole saw is slightly tipped.
LEDs are definitely a major step up. The halogens were uncomfortably hot. Great white light, but dangerously hot even as table lamps. Your videos are superb! As good as ol' Bob Vila!
You guys are the best. I watched a half dozen LED installation videos before this one. In every single case, there was no ceiling insulation. They avoided going in the attic my merely reaching up through the hole and finding the wires. I'd criticise them in the comments for a non-real-world video. They'd always write back and tell me they didnn't know what I was talking about. So, apparently, most places in the US use no attic insulation. Sure.
Your talking about dimmers at the end made me think of my parents house, my wife noticed the dimmer for the dinning table chandelier was quite hot, I thought the dimmer had a fault and was broken, NOPE, we pulled the bulbs off the 9 bulb chandelier, over 700 watts of incandescent bulbs! ... yea, we switched them out with LED and it was all good, went from 700+ watts to 63 watt rating! think of the heat that light put out, 500 watts likely, how much harder their AC had to work to compensate!
You guys should and will have so many more subscribers! The extra work you do to record and edit all these videos in addition to the excellent work you do is certainly commendable. Keep it up and I'll keep watching. 👀
Always love your videos. FYI: I just bought the 4" versions and those instructions said the power supply needs a minimum of 3" clearance from insulation. Light are rated IC. Otherwise another good video.
Thanks for recommending these halo lights, I followed your guide and couldn’t believe how easy it was to install this kit. Grabbing two more for the other bedrooms.
So i got these after watching the video. Installed in the kitchen remodel. I got the same dimmer you installed here and it does not work. From what i read you meed a low volt dimmer. In the video you did not show the dimmer actually dimming. Mine works like an one/off switch but dimmer does not work. Lights flash and turn off. Am i missing something here? Or did your dimmer not work as well?
I was taught to always place the hot leg on the bottom screw of the switch, and the load leg going to the device on top. It makes sense to visualize power comes into the switch, passes through the switch and flows to the device. I know it doesn't matter, but it just makes sense to me to do it that way. Thoughts?
Great Video! I remember installing can lights in the summer and leaving large wet-spots on the ceiling joists everywhere I touched them! Drink more water!
i've had horrible luck with halo lights. switched to the kind from a electrical warehouse and no problems since. we have burned up boxes of these things in the halo brand. hope your luck was better
Hi, your videos are great! I can tell you are an honest contractor. Wish you were in Michigan! Anyhow, please use dimmer in a 3-way. I have a project in the basement where we are finishing it, and I am doing two rooms with recessed lighting with 3way dimmers. I don't think I will be using the recessed lighting in this video as I don't have drywall up yet but plan to use Halo because of your videos! Also, how did you make the electric box map? I would like to map my house out. Thanks again!
Just did a kitchen remodel and installed this type of lighting. The house had a 3 in 12 pitch over the kitchen and there was no way to squeeze in there so we did it all from inside the kitchen using Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape. All we did was predrill the openings for the lights then by using the wire pull rods over the ceiling joists, we daisy-chained the wire to each opening. The only real issue was the blown-in insulation coming through the openings. Luckily there was a junction box already in the ceiling with pipe conduit running to the switch box. We added an extra wire (circuit) and used a stack dimmer switch to operate the lights. 2 hours, eight lights.
These guys do great work and some of the tips you'll hear from them on here could be the first time you hear it. I'm over 50 and doing this work for over 35 years in NY, NJ, PA, and VA and never have i watched one of their videos and said that's a load of crap. I see terrible work in customers homes 95% of the time. Lessons and opinions from pros like these guys are worth the time to view their videos if your unsure or curious to find another way to do a thing check them out. All the best to you guys. Thanks for your hard work.
Save 20% on your system and your first month is free when you sign up for interactive monitoring. Visit SimpliSafe.com/StudPack to learn more!
I don't do attics anymore because I'm past 35 years old... period... nope to insulation and nope to hot, fiberglass in the skin at night... nope ..
in my 20s I insulated professionally, one of my hoodies my ex washed with her panties...
🤣🤣🤣 I'm at work getting cussed because someone gots itchy and scratchy going on in their pants...
yeah... no Attics anymore, I paid my dues 🤣🤣🤣
Nice that you decided to delete my comment. Do a video where you're replacing an EXISTING old can recessed light with a flush mount LED light (and I'm not talking about retrofitting an LED light bulb).
I thought wrapping with black tape was against code.
Y’all need to add videos to Rumble
I've always heard that if you're using a non-contact voltage tester, you should make sure and touch it to something that you know is hot (like an outlet in another room that is on) to make sure that the tester is working properly before you trust it to tell you if the wires you're going to touch are actually turned off. Always good to be doubly-safe when working with potentially live wiring.
In the industry we call that a Live-Dead-Live test and its an excellent idea to make sure your tester is working properly
Normally, throughout the day pros will test their tester several times.
i worked with a old electrician that would touch the wire to find out if it was hot 🔥 or ground out the power wire to find the circuit breaker it was on 😂
Non-contact testers are also known as "death sticks" because they're notoriously unreliable. Any time you have to touch wire with your fingers, the circuit should be tested metal on metal first. Most DIYers aren't investing in $$$$ professional testers and shouldn't be led to believe that the $10 sticks they buy at the hardware store are going to tell them for certain when a circuit isn't energized.
Yep! Always test your tester... whether contact or non-contact on a known live circuit.
Hey Paul, just for your future jobs, whenever I rough in wiring for any switch box, 1,2,3,4,5 gang or more, I always bring the feed wires (hot) in the bottom of the box, and if there is going to be a tap out of that box to feed another switch box or receptacle downstream , I will also bring that outgoing hot in the bottom of the box. That way I always know the cables coming into the box on the bottom are both "hots", and they always get connected together. It makes wiring multiple devices a little simpler.
A lot of people don't realize how hot an attic can be. I'm in South Florida and I'm in attics at least 4-5 times a week. Highest I've ever measured was 137°. It was too hot to even crawl around with bare hands. Danger level heat.
Used to do HVAC with my father in attics in Florida. We measured 145 one time. We would rotate out after 15 min to avoid heat stroke.
I was gonna say, it was probably a lot hotter than 120!
Our company does a lot of poultry house work. We have to go in the attics of the houses quite a bit. With just the tin roof between you and the sun, it gets scorching. One time on of the guys took out a heat gun. It was 162 degrees at the access hole. The wood trusses were so hot, you couldnt touch them. Even the wire we had to pull down the ceiling got so hot by the time we got where we had to put it, you could almost not hold on to it.
Dallas here. My first summer with a remodeling crew I was the "attic rat" running wiring and ducts.
I am now able to laugh at the desperation I felt at the end (and hottest part) of the day when all I needed to do was insulate that one last duct and I'd be free! And the only thing holding me up was peeling the back off the stupid foil tape with trembling fingers while trying to see what I was doing through the waterfall of sweat running across my eyes.
Like I said, I am NOW able to laugh about it. I lost twenty pounds that summer.
wouldn't last spraying foam.
Something to consider, that I didn't see in the comments and they didn't mention in the video, is if you're putting recessed lighting in a lower ceiling, like a basement, you'll need to take into consideration the beam angle coming out of the lights themselves. If you have them too far apart you'll feel like you're walking in and out of light and get an awkward feeling because you'll be walking in and out of the light beam.
You should try the Wago 221 connectors, they make everything clean and neat. I always wrap the screws so I can't touch the screws if pulling the switch out.
Man you guys are really giving me confidence to do some work on my new home. It's funny how it seems like Jordan is the one who had the idea for this channel, but Dad is such a natural in front of the camera and a great teacher. I like how you asked him to clarify the wiring stuff, just to give folks a chance to boost their confidence even further.
I really enjoy your videos. Very consice and thorough with very clear explanations! Keep it up!
I did all the recess lighting in all my downstairs rooms without attic access. You just need to get 3/4 ,54inch flex bit. I can't belive he said he cut someone's floor open to do it. They literally sell these bits at all the major hardware stores just for this reason. They even have a hole on the shaft to pull the wire through.
Note: Always re-check with tester AFTER turning off breaker. For one, the breaker at times fails to open when you turn it off. I have always trained apprentices to re-check the box just in case there is a second circuit present in the same box. Simply move the tester around at the rear of the box.. not just what is easy to touch. A second circuit is more common than you realize.
Or you might be working on outlets that your electronics trained father has previously re-wired and crossed two circuits! DAMHIK! LOL I always check now.
Especially if you got stablock / federal pacific breakers
Yep. Always recheck. Also I was taught to touch the hots first with the back of your hand after you were absolutely sure they were off. If you somehow made a mistake, your reflexes will cause you to pull away from the live wires.
@@jmpattillo I touch or grab the " hot " wire with the power ON with my bare hand plenty of times in my electrician career without getting shock .
@@lacuzon39000 I guess if you are well insulated from a ground path then you can get away with it. I'm just glad I've never gotten anything across my heart.
Even though you are using a plastic box, its a good idea to tape the hot terminals on the switch because the ground wires are long and exposed. When you fold them into the box and then "shove" the devices in, its hard to know if the ground wires get moved around.
I have been using the Halo recessed lighting for a while now, but never saw that kit before. LOVE IT! Thanks for showing it off
Another great video StudPack!
you can see the ground on the sides man don’t tape it
I’ve been an electrician since 1966 and I’m still amazed at all the technology we have today. So many jobs are so much simpler than when I was an apprentice.
The wire through the ceiling trick to locate potential obstructions is flat out genius!!
Have y'all ever tried Wago lever nuts vs the wire nuts? I watch 80% or so of the uploads (I miss them sometimes) and hadn't seen those yet. They work great, and I'd even be tempted to send you some. For DIYers, it makes wiring so much faster than wire nuts, and doesn't damage the wire.
I was just about to ask Studpack about using Wagos. I'm from Germany so I don't know about American Building Code, but Wagos made a huge difference to me in electrical installation. Though I don't use the lever ones but the slim ones where you just stick your wire in. I know it makes hardly any difference regarding conductivity yet wire nuts have a sliiiight advantage over Wagos, but it's never a fire hazard or anything like that. I love that with Wagos you can easily remove single wires without dismanteling the whole setup.
@@0Fidel0 I use both of the Wago types and they work fantastic. I will never go back to wire nuts. The extra cost is worth it.
They’ve mentioned them before, and basically said “use what you like,” I believe.
These "wafer lights" have really changed the game when it comes to lighting. I mounted mine in ceiling tiles which I was able to mount within 2.5 inches below the ductwork. Otherwise, I would have literally needed to design my ductwork around where can lights would normally go.
My concern is if one of these lights goes ca'put in 5 years, will I be able to find an identical replacement, or will I be replacing all of my wafer lights? I like how the old Edison base fixtures installed 75 years ago can STILL appear and function fine with a simple bulb replacement.
I love that he emphasizes *selectable color temperature.* That's crucial when you can't just change a lightbulb to go from daylight white to warm white, or vice versa. Without that selectability, you'd have to rip out and replace _the entire fixture_ just to change the color of the light.
Yes I didn't realize about the lights and my porch looks like a prison yard or airport runway.
Good job on the video. I personally am not a fan of those lights. Companies occasionally produce these "innovative" products that are a bit outside the norm, then years from now when components fail or break you can't find replacement parts. In this case one specific driver controls all 4 lights, up to 8. Driver fails there are no lights. You also have those plastic clips that attach to the LV wire, it reminds me of the round discs used for LV wire on landscape lighting, and those discs are usually the first thing to fail. Granted they are exposed to different elements and circumstances than they would be in an attic.
It is a DIY friendly solution, but it has the same drawbacks as traditional can lights-you have to work around any obstruction-joists, ductwork, blocking, bridging, plumbing, etc. That makes it defeat the purpose of being DIY friendly. At the end of the day flat wafers that sit below the joist are going to thrive compared to this product. You can fish either wire from hole to hole and avoid attic work all together, especially when the return is already up in the ceiling-just get it close to the first light location and use poles or tape to hop between them all.
Just a sparky's 2 cents. I wouldn't install this product in my home nor would I recommend them to a customer. Halo is a good brand but this seems short term and gimmicky and likely to be phased out. All the downsides of can light install and one link makes or breaks all the lights. Imagine if an office room had all their 4 foot T8 fluorescent lights controlled by 1 ballast.
I was thinking the same thing...outdoor light connection failures...oh boy. I finally found the solution...those 3M grease filled connector chingaderas and never looked back. I wonder how long those connection points are gonna last in the heat of that attic let alone the heat of my attic in Phoenix?
I bought the 8-light bundle for our kitchen renno and will be returning these because the lights are failing to pair on the app. Lights are on, they’re getting power from the supply and the only online troubleshooting doc Halo has on them only tell you to make sure power is on and that you’re within range of Bluetooth (yes to both). Anyway, just wanted to point out that the power supply isn’t a “hub” for this system, it is basically just a transformer to feed 10v downstream to the lights you place on the wire. Each light has its own Bluetooth transmitter that needs to pair to the app. I was able to get the Halo dimmers recognized, but none of the lights in the kit worked. Experience tells me this isn’t a solid product 👎🏻
I've watched about 4 of your videos while trying to finish my basement. You are now my favorite show. You are a true teacher and explain key concepts clearly and conscisely. Keep up the good work!
I always get excited to see a new Stud Pack video waiting for me! I appreciate you fellers so much for your in-depth explanations. Also, thank you for explaining the clamping plate on the switch. I feel that so many people don’t even realize what that plate is for. Keep up the great work!
You’ve a new fan here! Encyclopedic level of information, yet distilled to a form that any layperson with the will to learn can tackle almost any home-related project! Appreciate the fast tempo of your speech, which combined with the depth of knowledge, makes for videos that you have to pause or rewind! Keep ‘em coming, and here’s to a million subs! 👍👍👍👍👍
Nowadays I like to use 4 inch new construction or remolding can for incandescent where it is available because they got the extra safety heat switch built in , just in case something goes wrong with the led light , there is plenty of led recessed modules that will fit in the 4 inch can with the socket plug in for 120 V then you won’t have to depend on finding the proper replacement in a few years when Halo discontinued this model , plus every brand with this type of light on separate driver or driver built in the can have their own secondary DC voltage set up and you can only use the proper oem replacement part .
Again, you are the master of the tricks, every time you use one of the little tricks, I recall how my pop would use them. Like turning the hammer sideways to get to the tight space over the staple. You guys always do fantastic work and its like 20 minutes of reminiscing for me. Anyone who wants to learn...and learn it right....this is the right channel to watch.
I’ve put in wafer lights in upstairs ceilings w/o attic access, but only when I didn’t need to run a new switch leg - e.g. I was connecting to and existing ceiling light/fan leg. I simply used fiberglass fishing rods that I can use to run the Romex from light to light and finally to the switch leg.
Studpack Wednesday!! Simpli the best day of the week so far!! I installed a simplisafe system earlier this year for a client for the first time.. Very easy to do & following the directions was easy..
Thank you guys & Keep up the good work!
Just installed two, along with other lighting, in my company's office. One worked for about 10 seconds, the other not at all. Checked all connections and voltage. All ok
unscrew it justttt a bit
just installed one of these, it's fantastic how easy it makes installing a bunch of LED lights in a room, but something important i think everyone should know is to avoid the 0-10v dimmable version. you'll have to do so much extra AND run extra wires to make it dimmable
I’m having this problem too. how do you update to dimmable? I have a feeling I’ll need to run 0-10v lines but to what and where. Manufacturer has left us hanging.
After having retired a full master bathroom remodel I have found the Wago connectors to be SO much better than wire nuts. Working with the past twisted wires in a remodel is a serious pain. Wago connectors are so much cleaner and really eases future changes. Nice video thanks for making them.
Wire nuts have been fine for the past hundred years, so I see no reason to change to something relatively new and untested.
Fantastic presentation. As always! Would also love a video on how you drew up that house circuit diagram for the inspector.
We did a video on it right here Ron👊 ua-cam.com/video/LTLDhdPqmcA/v-deo.html
@@StudPack Thanks for the x-ref!
7:00 Dust Bowl. When we had a whole-house HVAC installed in our house, the company brought along a little old man who was somebody’s grandpa. His entire job was to hold a box up to the ceiling where they were cutting the holes for the vents. We didn’t have any dust in the house because grandpa did his job.
also keep the drill above your head so if the hole saw bit grabs, you dont get knocked off your ladder when the battery pack slams your face
I love to see the three way application installed please make a video I couldn’t find one 😊
I was taught to always wrap the wire nuts on any connections in a way that it holds the wire nut on and keeps it tight. Wire nuts can loosen over time and heat up. I’m an industrial electrician but it holds true in residential too.
From what I can remember the joist won’t interfere with the pancake LED lights… I’m assuming you’re looking out for the DIYers?
I just looked at these tonight, pretty cool. A little more expensive at $140 for 4 pack, but you wiring is all included, and it takes alot of work out of landing multiple junction boxes for each individual light you want to install. Thanks for posting this project!
I am not an electrician by trade, but my uncle was and would take me on the job with him when we visited him for the summer in Michigan. He taught me that all power cables come into the box on the upper left and wires going to your device goes out the upper right. I do not know if that is a standard, but all the homes that I have owned have been like that and when I rewired the garage that is how I did it. If it is a box I am not sure of, I always test the circuit and mark it for me later or the next guy that has to go into the box.
I installed these recents in my man cave and could not be happier. Tied them to the existing box unused in the center.
Thanks for first making me aware of such product… also thanks so much for your videos… really enjoy your stuff.
Excellent presentation. I like that the photographer chimes in with his questions/observations and you then elaborate. I learned a lot. Well done.
Great video stud pack, very informative and great tips, I love all your videos. I've definitely learned a ton of tips and tricks through out your videos. One quick tip as a electrician myself never break off the tabs on a dimmer always just bend them back, its the same width whether bent back or broke off. Keep the great videos coming!
FYI- I just bought a similar saw from the orange store made by Klein. Worked pretty well and was around $30. Good enough for the 4 holes I had to do for my lights. Wish I had watched this video first, I made all of the right marks where the joists were but there were so many and I was in such a rush that, you guessed it, I drilled one hole right where my joist was. Made a big X with a circle on all the other holes after that. Went from a simple job to extra work patching drywall in just a few seconds. Some times I amaze myself with how smart and I am and other times I amaze myself with my stupidity.
A father. A son. Electrical circuits. Well, my day is complete. Thanks, boys. You two ROCK!
Another great video. As a homeowner I’m not liking the choose of the Fan Controller sticking out like that just asking to be broken by the kids. Very helpful to know when we upgrade our Bedroom fans
Master Electrician in Florida. Done tons of hi hats without getting in the attic but we are usually dealing with 1 floor structures. A fishtape and patience does the job.
I installed these low voltage lights in my living room per the instructional video. HOWEVER, if you want them to dim, in addition to the 120 volt wiring you need to run low voltage wiring to the transformer AND to a dimmer switch that is compatible.
Where did you find this information? I’ve been trying to get mine to dim but not understanding how to fix it properly
In the manual I read, the halo junction box with the transformer is not IC rated, which could be a problem.
It's about time someone came up with this linkable low voltage system. It's a no brainer. Problem is that it's 5x as expensive. They use less components to make it but charge the consumer more. I'll wait for the price to come down.
I paid $109 on Amazon for 12pk! That to me is a DEAL
I like to make a tag out of the romex sleeve and use a sharpie to write power. I then slip it over the hot wire coming into the box. In the future if I need to get into the box I know which one has the source power. I use the romex strippers (Klein K1412) to cut off the romex sleeve rather than using a knife to open it. It saves me from cutting into the wire accidentally. I also get a clean cut and a sleeve to use as a tag.
This is a well informed video . Thank you for showing that 90 percent of the time we have to work in a attic and it does get incredibly hot up their … I prefer 120 volt compared to low voltage ,the higher voltage last longer .
I love devices that have the clamping plates. I hate doing loops around screws. Love the content!!
This was the video I was hoping you would make. I've been looking to install wafer lights in my bedroom to replace the center ceiling fan light and while there are many DIY vids on this subject I wanted to see how the Stud Pack crew tackled the install. Great job!
I have a set of 6 led lights similar to those installed in my kitchen. When we run our dishwasher, the lights flicker with the pulses of the dishwasher motor. I also have led under cabinet lights that are perfectly fine when the dishwasher runs. Any ideas?
Really love that you explain everything more than once. I’m an amateur electrician and I didn’t quite understand how you wired up the 2 gang box in the beginning, but when you explained it at the end, I understood. Still don’t understand the purpose of a switch leg. Also, I didn’t know you were from Louisiana. That’s awesome. As a fellow Louisianaian, I love watching your channel.
In a nut shell, the term “switch leg” is a commonly accepted nickname for the wire that runs from the control device (ie the switch, dimmer, timer, motion sensor, photocell, etc) up to the light fixture. A switch leg is always controlled by a device, and never has constant power. Hope that helps clarify !! Cheers.
I did it! All thanks to this video. Just installed in my bedroom and it came out great. I’m in Miami and I waited until this cold snap to go into my attic. Any other day I’d melt in there.
I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel and we wanted to do recessed lights. I did them in our kitchen and was not looking forward to mounting four in the bathroom and being up in the attic dripping with sweat. I'm planning on using one romex line for all four lights so it was going to be a junction box party up there. Oh man am I glad I came across your video. These are a game changer!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to help us all out. Liked and subbed!!
Always awesome to see fans wired separately from fan lights. Nice to be able to have the fan running during the day without the lights on, or at night without the lights on, all without having to mess with pull chains.
Yeah, except when the fan comes with a remote that could control the light (& now can’t). Or even worse, when you want to use the Bond Bridge to control the fan and light using Alexa/Google
@@TENTHIRTYONE Is the "Bond Bridge" a manufacturer specific accessory? You could alternatively replace both fan and light wall switches with smart switches to control them individually (on/off/dim).
@Slim_Savage Pretty sure it was originally wired for just a ceiling light and someone (before me) swapped it for a fan-light without changing the wiring or switch.
Nice video, working with sweaty hands in an attic that has fiberglass blow insulation is not fun. I have done similar work, in my days and from time to time, and here in AZ you can imagine the heat in attics or crawl spaces, even in the spring and fall. From a quick installation, the low voltage lights you are using are great, but I prefer hard wire direct to each light with Romex, for a more service free and solid installation and this is a lot easier than working with BMX or metal pipe as per code in some east coast states. My experience with low voltage lighting, as with landscaping lights have not been favorable, at some point there is chance for loss of continuity due to press fit contact loosening over time, but this also is a matter of how well the press fit connector was designed and installed.
Those things look slick. I'm skeptical about the 22 years. LED premature heat death is fairly common at least in some fixtures. I wonder how they'll hold up in a hot Louisiana attic.
Not only that but if you read the rating it is like 3 hours a day for 22 years or something. I can tell you my kitchen lights are on for more than 3 hours a day.
I'm usually into car videos. But I enjoy how you walk us through each step
Thanks for the full explanation of how to install the wafer lighting You make the best DIY videos.
Nice job as always.
Used that same hole saw a few weeks ago while upgrading a church auditorium (from the 70's hanging globes to the 5/8" wafer LEDs). Was so nice not to have to clean up all the flying dust because of the hole saw cover... and the new 5/8" lights fit underneath all the joists. LEDs were a cleaner look, much brighter output, a lot less heat, and use much less power.
Had a few places we needed to widen existing holes... problem was there was no place for the center bit to index. So... I got a light fixture mounting bracket, drilled out the center hole to fit my hole saw pilot bit, and then put drywall screws thru it up into the ceiling drywall (inside the diameter of my cutting legs). Allowed me to index the pilot bit anywhere and widen existing (4") holes to larger (6") holes. (Have also used a piece of 1"x4" cut into a 4" circle, but that was a bit more work and this way I was able to go exactly where I wanted.)
I usually remove the gasket when installed in a non-wet environment. This give a slightly tighter fit to the ceiling.
I leave it, less of an air gap
RIP fingertips if that light needs to be taken out to paint or something lol
The gasket is also there to prevent airflow through the light hole.
It’s there to prevent air flow, something you don’t want happening from the attic in the winter or summer.
there to stop bugs or dust from coming through as well. More important to leave it on.
Check live and neutral also not just live and ground , there are many houses out there wired with “ romex “ connected to old wiring without actual ground .
Landscape lighting inside.
You and your son do an excellent job with your video's / sounds like you raised him right / have a excellent father son relationship...enjoy watching your video's keep up the excellent work and take care...
I think these are the “easiest” light I would attempt to install. Plus the step by step that you give through the video helps big time! I would like to see a video with the 3way switch.
3ways are easy. the live wire on one goes to the common, the wire going to the light goes to the common on the other . the other 2 wires are travelers.
Ssssoooo, before Katrina, we had an attic crawlspace in a hip roof style home like you were in. We installed an oven temperature gauge to see how hot it was during the summer. It would start when opening the hatch it would be 125 degrees and then zoom to 150 degrees after turning on the florescence light. Now, after Katrina, we went to a gable roof with a standing space to house the water heater and HVAC unit. WE have a house length vent on both sides of the house with a roof ridge vent to escape as much air as it could. The hottest it gets now is about 5 to 7 degrees hotter than the outside. Best thing we could have ever done!!! Great video as I am going to try to get similar lights for out bathroom. Great video!!! BTW, we are located on Mississippi Gulf Coast about 1/2 mile from the beach.
Might consider the m12 installation tool with all the variable angle heads. It’s become one of my favorite tools.
that box could have been made up so much better. it ended up pretty messy. first, when you make up the grounds, put enough pigtails to have one per device. then do the same when you make up the hots. one pigtail per device. then you're not making pigtails and adding more wire nuts to the same connection. then cut your hot pigtails square and your switch legs at an angle, and it makes it easy to tell which is which.
and also, when putting a CL dimmer alongside a switch, the heat sink tabs don't need to be broken off. there's exactly enough room.
but I'm not going to be buying low voltage can kits. the low wattage of LEDs may not be as hard on low voltage as halogens, but I've still had to rebuild way too much low voltage hardware because it cooked itself to death. remember, 12V runs 10 times the amperage as 120V for the same wattage.
I am a SimpliSafe user. They don’t have a way to turn the alarm on and off with a cell phone. Their product only supports sending emails to the person who registered the account. It’s ok if you don’t mind that limitation
LED being low voltage uses lots of current and heats up easily behind the lamp. Without metal can behind may pose a fire danger .
Normally I don't give the ads a second thought. But on a quality channel like Stud Pack, I'm happy to do what I can to support the quality content that Paul and Jordan are producing. Yes, I'm clicking and, yes, I'm buying 👍
Super helpful video! Picked up the Halo low-voltage 4-pack and am just about done with the install. Only problem I've run into is with the dimmer switch. It's wired up correctly and the on/off switch will turn the lights on and off but when I use the slider to dim, nothing happens. The lights remain at full brightness. Faulty dimmer switch? It's a Leviton DSL06 that's supposed to work with LEDs, CFLs and halogens.
They make long feeler bits you can drill through joists in vaulted and 2 story homes. It has a hole in end of the bit to pull the wire back.
Just make sure you think long and hard about what might be on the other side of that joist. You don't want to hit Romex stapled to the side of the joist, or worse, a water pipe.
Stoked to see yall getting some sponsorships! So epic. Congrats fellas, you earned it
“I’m up here with you man”, I absolutely LOVE IT!!! 😂😂
Great video, thank you for posting.
Secret hack. LED wafer lights that have a separate transformer, you can cut the cable that comes with it and extend it with door bell wire. This way you can put all the transformers next to the gang box in the ceiling and just run the thin wire to the lights. Just like the system mentioned here. The lights I used the voltage was too low to shock you and the current too low to heat the wire and start a fire.
You should get an old weather thermometer that shows temp and RH cuz it’s not only hot in that Louisiana attic it’s humid too which I’m sure only adds to the misery.
When you said “this whole room is one circuit” did you mean the lights and the outlets both? I strongly believe in separating outlet circuits from fan/light circuits where possible. I understand in a remodel that’s not usually a possibility but when you can there are good reasons separate them.
Last, I love that you’re giving the homeowners a proper panel schedule and an electrical plan. I also like to do this for the next guy.
Why don't you do the wiring down on the floor then stick it into the attic through one of the recessed light holes? Then just go up there to mount the box. That's what I do most of the time. I also manage to fish the wire from below most of the time with fiberglass rods.
These guys’ videos have been so helpful in my remodeling projects! From this video, I got myself that same hole saw and I also tried these lights. I ended up returning the lights because the lights failed to pair to the app (I should have known a Bluetooth only option for smart features was too good to be true). I had also bought the Halo 3-way switches meant to be used with these and those were the only things that paired 😂
Would be nice to know how high the ceiling is and what the lens angle of the lights your using is.
Problem with led fixtures when they fail and they will.The entire unit is trash..landfill.. they need to be repaired or are just gonna fill landfills like solar does..
I have LED lights just like these that were installed maybe 2 years ago. One of them has stopped working. What are your best tips for a non-electrician to diagnose the issue? Are the LED's themselves replaceable or might I need to replace the whole light assembly? Thanks for any input.
The whole light. This light are not reliable as the regular can lights.
Good JOb...I plan to install those ""pancake lights" in my kitchen now after walk me trough you give me confidence i can do it by myself. thank you a God blessing you and your family.
I just watched this video. I learned something new. I want to share a device wiring connection idea. Instead of putting the wires straight into the device clamp, try making a modified half loop (like you would use under the screw), but bend it 180 degrees on the long end after the loop like an "h", then clamp it. As always, an informative good video.
My brother installed some of these lights in his kitchen a couple months ago. He didn’t go in his attic for the installation process he installed the lights all from in his kitchen.
He installed about 6 lights total.
Electrician here. We install those lights all the time without getting in the attic as long as there is an existing light. Fish sticks can usually get the job done 🙂
electrician here as well. mmmm....fish sticks. I used to love those as a kid
Paul - Here's a tip that I use. I drill a pilot hole before using the hole saw. It's easy to locate the hole saw bit in the pilot hole and keeps the hole saw from accidently wandering.if the hole saw is slightly tipped.
LEDs are definitely a major step up. The halogens were uncomfortably hot. Great white light, but dangerously hot even as table lamps. Your videos are superb! As good as ol' Bob Vila!
You guys are the best. I watched a half dozen LED installation videos before this one. In every single case, there was no ceiling insulation. They avoided going in the attic my merely reaching up through the hole and finding the wires. I'd criticise them in the comments for a non-real-world video. They'd always write back and tell me they didnn't know what I was talking about. So, apparently, most places in the US use no attic insulation. Sure.
Your talking about dimmers at the end made me think of my parents house, my wife noticed the dimmer for the dinning table chandelier was quite hot, I thought the dimmer had a fault and was broken, NOPE, we pulled the bulbs off the 9 bulb chandelier, over 700 watts of incandescent bulbs! ... yea, we switched them out with LED and it was all good, went from 700+ watts to 63 watt rating! think of the heat that light put out, 500 watts likely, how much harder their AC had to work to compensate!
You guys should and will have so many more subscribers! The extra work you do to record and edit all these videos in addition to the excellent work you do is certainly commendable. Keep it up and I'll keep watching. 👀
Story of my life lol. I bust my butt on my videos and have few subs.
I just don’t edit my videos. All my videos are uploaded rough
Jijiji
Used these lights on a home remodel last year. Loved using the product.
Always love your videos. FYI: I just bought the 4" versions and those instructions said the power supply needs a minimum of 3" clearance from insulation. Light are rated IC. Otherwise another good video.
Thanks for recommending these halo lights, I followed your guide and couldn’t believe how easy it was to install this kit. Grabbing two more for the other bedrooms.
So i got these after watching the video. Installed in the kitchen remodel. I got the same dimmer you installed here and it does not work. From what i read you meed a low volt dimmer. In the video you did not show the dimmer actually dimming. Mine works like an one/off switch but dimmer does not work. Lights flash and turn off. Am i missing something here? Or did your dimmer not work as well?
Because he doesn’t know. Lol
Don’t trust does lights. Just imagine connecting 4-6 lights in ballast. Once a ballast is bad all the lights are off. Not good at all.
I was taught to always place the hot leg on the bottom screw of the switch, and the load leg going to the device on top. It makes sense to visualize power comes into the switch, passes through the switch and flows to the device. I know it doesn't matter, but it just makes sense to me to do it that way. Thoughts?
It doesn't matter and the next guy has no idea that you did it. If you are worried, label it.
Most switches are labeled for hot and neutral.
Great Video! I remember installing can lights in the summer and leaving large wet-spots on the ceiling joists everywhere I touched them! Drink more water!
i've had horrible luck with halo lights. switched to the kind from a electrical warehouse and no problems since. we have burned up boxes of these things in the halo brand. hope your luck was better
Hi, your videos are great! I can tell you are an honest contractor. Wish you were in Michigan! Anyhow, please use dimmer in a 3-way. I have a project in the basement where we are finishing it, and I am doing two rooms with recessed lighting with 3way dimmers. I don't think I will be using the recessed lighting in this video as I don't have drywall up yet but plan to use Halo because of your videos! Also, how did you make the electric box map? I would like to map my house out. Thanks again!
I am hesitant about bundling excess wire in loops. Even extension cords. I think it may induce voltage or RF. Is there any validity to that theory?
What you mean? I've been changing my oil from the driver's seat since forever ago.
Just did a kitchen remodel and installed this type of lighting. The house had a 3 in 12 pitch over the kitchen and there was no way to squeeze in there so we did it all from inside the kitchen using Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape. All we did was predrill the openings for the lights then by using the wire pull rods over the ceiling joists, we daisy-chained the wire to each opening. The only real issue was the blown-in insulation coming through the openings. Luckily there was a junction box already in the ceiling with pipe conduit running to the switch box. We added an extra wire (circuit) and used a stack dimmer switch to operate the lights. 2 hours, eight lights.
These guys do great work and some of the tips you'll hear from them on here could be the first time you hear it. I'm over 50 and doing this work for over 35 years in NY, NJ, PA, and VA and never have i watched one of their videos and said that's a load of crap. I see terrible work in customers homes 95% of the time. Lessons and opinions from pros like these guys are worth the time to view their videos if your unsure or curious to find another way to do a thing check them out. All the best to you guys. Thanks for your hard work.